Taking in the view from the Glass Hollow Overlook. It was really hazy and we were facing the sun, so the photos aren't great. But, it was still really colorful and pretty. Below: Adam takes the turn onto the Appalachian Trail; The Paul C. Wolfe Shelter; Adam walks along the Albright Trail.

Adam Says…

Today was our 14th wedding anniversary, so we decided to take the day off of work and go for a nice hike together.   It is a good sign that it doesn’t seem like 14 years and that time has flown.  I’ve seen a card that said on the outside “Thank you for five wonderful years of marriage” and on the inside it said “Happy 25th Anniversary”.  We’ve had some great years together.  It was wonderful to pick a beautiful fall day to experience together.

As we mentioned in “Our Most Popular Trails” post, we are shocked that Humpback Rock receives so much attention.  We thought it would be a good idea to talk about this other hike that takes off from the Humpback Rock parking lot.  So, if you’re interested in hiking but not tons of people, this may be an option for you. The views are better from Humpback Rock, but you do get some benefits on this hike also.

After parking in the lot, you will see a picnic table adjacent to the first parking spot.  There are two trails that take off from this spot.  Take the blue-blazed trail to the right of the picnic table that descends into the woods (you’ll return from the loop by the Albright Loop Trail on the left).   The trail descends gradually and at .25 miles, you reach an intersection with the Appalachian Trail.  Take a left on the white-blazed AT heading north.  The trail at this point is relatively flat or downhill.  At mile 1.1, you reach an intersection with a small blue-blazed trail that veers off to the right pointing to the Glass Hollow Overlook.  The trail to the overlook is just about .2 mile and is worth the walk.  At the overlook, there is a backcountry campsite for those that would like to camp and take in the views of the sunrise from the overlook.  Go back on the spur trail the way you came and join the AT again, taking a right and continuing north on the trail taking your mileage to 1.3 miles.   At mile 1.6 and 1.7, you come across intersections with the Albright Loop trail.  Just continue on the Appalachian Trail.

Adam checks out the shelter log in the Paul C. Wolfe shelter. Below: Past campers debate (in graffiti) the philosophy of Christopher McCandless from 'Into the Wild'; We found a name we knew in the shelter log; On the hike back up from the shelter, we got an open view of Bears Den Mountain in Shenandoah National Park. You can't tell in this photo, but there are radio towers atop the mountain in the distance.

The trail begins to descend for the next 1.3 miles through a long series of switchbacks.  At mile 3.0, we rock-hopped across Mill Creek and reached the Paul C. Wolfe Shelter.  We took some time to rest here before we returned the way we came on the Appalachian Trail.  We climbed back up the Appalachian Trail from the shelter heading south this time and back up the switchbacks we had just experienced.  We were both glad that these took off some of the difficulty of the elevation climb.  At mile 4.2, we reached the first junction with the blue-blazed Albright Loop Trail.  Take a right here and you will follow this trail 2 miles back to the parking lot.  The hike on the Albright Loop trail starts off very manageable, but ends up being the most difficult part of the hike since there is quite an ascent up through some switchbacks.

On the return on the Albright Loop Trail, immediately after the second switchback, look up the hillside to see the wreckage of a Beechcraft Bonanza plane.  On the trail it was marked with a cairn to show where you can leave the trail.  The plane crashed back in 1963.  Please respect the wreckage and leave it as it is.

Plane Wreckage along the Albright Trail. Below: Adam checks out another section of the plane.

The Paul C. Wolfe Memorial shelter was built by the Old Dominion Appalachian Trail Club in 1991.  According to their website, “it took approximately 30 people every weekend for two months to complete the shelter.  Materials were hauled two miles by hand and tractor.”  This is one of the nicest huts on the AT, according to a lot of the thru-hikers.  It really has nice construction and a beautiful location.

After our hike, we made a quick trip down to Sonic for a snack (tots and creamslushes!).  We didn’t want to spoil our anniversary dinner though, since we had reservations at The Local Chop & Grill House in Harrisonburg, VA.   It always feels good to have a guilt-free dinner when you have burned off a lot of calories on a hike.

Christine says…

What a great anniversary hike!  I love being out on the trail during the peak of fall foliage season.  All during the hike, the sun was filtering through the trees above – making a gorgeous canopy of gold.  There were also plenty of brilliant red maples tucked into the understory.  What was even better — no crowds!  Hiking on a weekday on a less well-known trail made this hike especially enjoyable.

I had new boots to try out on this hike. Right out of the box, my Oboz Sawtooth boots were perfectly comfortable.  They’re the first taller pair of boots I’ve ever worn.  I was skeptical about that, but they felt great the whole six+ miles.

A golden canopy of forest. Below: New boots on the Glass Hollow Overlook; Adam crosses Mill Creek; A small cascade on the stream.

Since Adam has already talked about the trail specifics, I’ll just share a few of my highlights. One of my favorite stops was at the Paul C. Wolfe shelter.  It really is one of the nicest backpacking shelters I’ve ever seen – two levels, plexiglass windows, hooks to hang backpacks and a deep, well-sheltered porch, so you always stay dry when you’re sleeping.  The structure is set uphill, overlooking a wonderful, babbling stream.  Even the privy is unique at this shelter.  With it’s half-door, I can’t say you’ll ever get true privacy, but at least you know when it’s occupied and the ventilation couldn’t be better!

While we were taking our break at the shelter, we took a few minutes to flip through the log book.  We noticed the entry from one of the backpackers we met in September at the Pinefield Hut.  It was kind of neat to see a name we knew.

I also took some time to explore and photograph the stream.  Along the bank of the stream, there is a marble bench placed in memory of John Donovan.  He was an experienced hiker and a member of the Old Dominion Appalachian Trail Club. He died on his attempt to thru-hike the Pacific Crest Trail in 2005.  The bench gave me enough information to Google his name so I could learn more about what happened.  As it turns out, Backpacker Magazine published a long feature story about John Donovan’s disappearance and death in a 2006 issue.  It was a fascinating read!  The tragedy that befell Donovan turned into a miracle that saved two other lives.

A bench is placed in memory of John Donovan. Below: The privy has a half door!

The plane crash was an interesting stop, too.  I expected the plane wreckage to be a lot rustier after close to fifty years in the woods, but it was still completely recognizable as an aircraft.  I couldn’t find anything more about the crash other than the year it happened and the type of plane.

After leaving the plane site, we finished out stint on the Albright Trail and made our way back to the car.  The parking lot was really full, but pretty much everyone else was on the Humpback Rocks trail.  I’m really glad we took the time to explore this trail – it turned out to be a perfect way to celebrate our anniversary.

Trail Notes

• Distance – 6.2 miles
  
• Elevation Change – 1500 feet.
  
• Difficulty – 3.  There is a good amount of uphill climbing.  The steepest section is along the Albright Loop Trail.
• Trail Conditions – 4.  The trail is nicely maintained.  During the fall season, be sure to watch your footing if the trail is covered with leaves.  There are loose rocks underneath a good portion of the trail.
  
• Views –3.  The best unobstructed views are from the Glass Hollow Overlook. 
• Streams/Waterfalls – 3.  Mill Creek was moving nicely near the shelter.  According to a journal entry from an AT hiker, there is a small waterfall and pool shortly downstream.
  
• Wildlife – 1.  We didn’t see anything beyond birds, chipmunks and squirrels.
  
• Ease to Navigate – 3.5.  There are a few intersections, but there are also signs at each of the intersections.
  
• Solitude – 3.  You will likely run into a few others on the trail, due to the proximity of Humpback Rocks.

Directions to trailhead: The trail is located on the Blue Ridge Parkway at Mile Marker 8. The hike begins on the blue-blazed trail to the right of the picnic table.

The woods along the Beall Trails are pretty and lush. Below: Flowers were still blooming at the end of summer; The area is part of a National Wildlife Refuge; Lots of deer inhabit the area of the Beall Trails.

Adam Says…

This figure-eight loop trail was a great way to experience some early fall weather and scenery.  This trail doesn’t have a lot of elevation change, so it is doable by most people.  It is also a birdwatchers paradise if you hit the trail in the early morning.  The open fields and nearby Blackwater River make this an active spot for birds.  Here is a checklist of birds you may see in this area.

We parked at the parking lot and started by taking the South Beall trail.  The trail started off cut through grass.  There are a couple of signs that point to the left, but stay straight on the trail.  Eventually, you will approach an area that is wooded.  There is a sign here for a handicapped hunting shed, that hunters use for deer hunting.  The trail begins to loop away to the left near the sign and begins to descend towards the Blackwater River.  The trail hugs closely to the River and gives you a few views of the water before you ascend back up the trail.  You will eventually rejoin the trail.  Take a right and make your way back to the parking lot.

For the North Beall trail, the trail starts off instantly in the woods.  After a few tenths of a mile, it opens back up into a large field (where a large barn used to exist) and then brings you back into the woods.  The North Beall trail then continues to loop to the east, and then brings you on more of a fire road to take you back to your vehicle.

There is a Beall Connector trail that bisects the North Beall trail to make a shorter loop.  There is also a Bog Overlook Trail and Hemlock spur trail that are both out-and-back short trails if you wanted to add more to your hike.

One interesting thing that happened along our hike is that we heard and saw about 12 fighter planes streak across the sky at lower elevations and then bank hard over the nearby mountains.   The area is used for pilot training. I’m not sure exactly what type of planes these were, but they were definitely combat-type planes.  We tried to get some pictures, but whenever we heard them we were deep in the woods and couldn’t get a clear shot with the speed they were flying.

A Black Swallowtail Caterpillar. Below: Adam and Wookie walking along the trail; Wookie perches in a tree; Trail marker

On the fire road on the North Beall trail, shortly before returning to our vehicle, I spotted a bright green caterpillar.  We inspected it closely and it had large orange antennae.  We had never seen any caterpillar that was so bright and colorful before.   After returning home, Christine was able to identify it as a Black Swallowtail caterpillar.  It also gave off a strong stench when we picked it up on a stick.  It turns out that these caterpillars brighten up and secrete a chemical as a defense mechanism.  After getting a few close photos, we put it back down to let him travel along to one day become a gorgeous butterfly.

After our short hike, we made a trip into Davis, WV for lunch at Hellbender’s Burritos.  This was our first trip there, but the food was amazing!  Christine got the Gendarme burrito, which was similar to a Philly cheese steak and I got The Admiral, which had chicken and bacon.  We will definitely make this a must-stop place for lunch in the future.

Christine Says…

When Adam and I decided to get away to Canaan Valley for a long weekend, I thought we’d do a couple hikes, go for a bike ride and maybe take a ride up to Dolly Sods. In the end, it turned out to be a chilly, gray weekend, so we opted for just one really easy hike on the Beall Trails and lot of movies on DVD, crackling fires, pizza eating and wine drinking. It was nice to have such a relaxing weekend, but I am glad we did manage to get in one hike!

We decided to take Wookie along on this hike.  He really hasn’t been hiking much lately because of the summer heat.  He was beyond thrilled to accompany us.  When he saw us packing his leash and portable crate, he started spinning in circles and whining excitedly.  That dog loves outings more than any dog I’ve ever known!

Wookie runs on the South Beall trail. Below: Leaves were starting to turn colors; A bluebird box on the trail.

The Beall Trails, which essentially form a large figure-eight path, are part of the Canaan Valley National Wildlife Refuge.  The trails go across open meadows, through boreal forest and along a small stretch of the Blackwater River.  It’s very easy, mostly flat walking.  The trail is in great shape, so it’s really a suitable hike for all kinds of people.  [View a map of the CVNWR Trail System]

We started off South Beall Trail.  Essentially, the path crosses a large open meadow before turning left into the woods and dropping down to the shore of the Blackwater River.  After following the river for a few tenths of a mile, the trail ascends quickly and returns hikers the same meadow path back to the parking area.  The river is lovely and in the meadow, you’ll likely see whitetail deer, wildflowers, birds and butterflies.  There are bluebird boxes around the meadow and an accessible hunting blind is located a short distance from the trail.

Stopping along the Blackwater River. Below: Adam and Wookie make their way along the South Beall Trail; More pretty trail scenery.

The North Beall Trail is a little bit longer and a little bit more densely wooded.  There is one distinctly open area a couple tenths of a mile into the trail.  The field used to house a beautiful, run-down old barn that we enjoyed exploring and photographing.  However in May of 2008, the barn was torn down to supply the barn timbers to the National Park Service for restoration projects at Antietem Battlefield.  I’m sure the wood from the Beall Barn lent a lot of authenticity to the battlefield projects, but I wish they had left the barn where it originally stood.  I wasn’t happy about them taking history from one place and falsely installing it in another.  It also took away the home of the owls that used to roost in the barn.  You can still read about the barn and the owls on the plaque at the trail entrance.  The interpretive sign about the barn was still there as of 2011. Oh well…

Even without the barn, the area is still very pretty and we enjoyed our short hike very much!

Wookie Says…

This was a great trail for a dog!  Even though it went along the river, I didn’t get wet or muddy at all.  I especially liked running in the open meadows!

Trail Notes

• Distance – 3.5 miles total.  1.4 miles for the South Loop and 2.1 miles for the North Loop
  
• Elevation Change – about 100 feet
  
• Difficulty – 1.5.  There is only one slightly steep climb on the South Loop.
• Trail Conditions – 3.5.  The trail is maintained, but may be overgrown in some of the summer/fall months.
  
• Views – 2.5.  You will get nice views of the mountains around you from the open fields, but this isn’t a hike for overlooks.
• Streams/Waterfalls – 3.  On the South Loop, you do walk along the Blackwater River for some nice views between the trees.
• Wildlife – 3.5  We saw a few deer on the trail, but the birdwatching on this trail is prime.
  
• Ease to Navigate – 3.5.  This is an enclosed group of inter-connected trails, so you shouldn’t get lost.
  
• Solitude – 4.5.  We’ve hiked this a few times and haven’t seen anyone. 
  

Directions to trailhead:  Heading north on Route 32 through Canaan Valley, WV, take a right on Cortland Road.  In about 1.5 miles, you will reach a one-lane bridge.  Nearby is the Canaan Valley sign that points to the short road that leads to the parking lot.  The parking lot is the center of the South and North Beall trails, so you can pick which one you would like to start first.

Note: Some of the NPS website details (and mileage markers along the actual trail) were a little outdated as of summer 2011, as they refer to the hike distance before the park service closed the upper parking lot in April of 2010.

Large boulders near the summit of Old Rag. Below: Adam walking along the road headed toward the Ridge Trail's start; Views from the summit of Old Rag; Adam drops down into a narrow passage between the rocks.

Christine Says…

After two and a half years, we’re finally getting around to covering Virginia’s most popular, most well-known hike – Old Rag. I’ll make an outright confession.  Old Rag, as beloved as it might be by (seemingly) everyone else, is not my favorite hike.   But, when you have a Virginia hiking website, you’re practically obligated to have a write up about this mountain.  So, on to the post!

We’d been tossing around the idea of hiking Old Rag for the blog for well over a year.  Adam would suggest it and I’d invariably tell him that it was too hot, too cold, possibly wet and slippery, I heard there was ice, my feet hurt, I don’t feel like driving that far, etc.  Basically, I floated every excuse in the book to delay the hike.  But then I went and did something incredibly stupid and it really blew up in my face!  I had a day off work coming up.  It was going to be a beautiful August day – crisp and unseasonably cool!  I had visions of getting up early, doing a photo shoot in the park, maybe eating some donuts and then taking myself to a matinee movie.  But before I could stop myself, I found that I had blurted out “Tomorrow would be a GREAT day to hike Old Rag!”  I assumed this was purely hypothetical because Adam had to work.  But he immediately responded “Yeah!  Let’s go!  I’m taking tomorrow off too!”  Ugh – I didn’t see that one coming!  I don’t like to back out on plans, so the next morning we were up before dawn, snacks stashed and Camelbaks filled.

We got to the parking lot before 8:00 a.m..  Getting to Old Rag early is something I consider to be a necessity.  The trail is always crowded – even on weekdays.  The Old Rag parking lot is actually my first point of contention with the hike.  It used to be if you got up early, you could always get a parking spot in the small upper parking area located right at the trailhead.  In April of 2010, a couple years after our last hike up Old Rag (fall of 2008 – see photos), the park service closed the upper lot to all vehicles.  Now, all vehicles must park in the lower lot, which is just a shade under a mile from the trailhead.  The added mile follows a paved road uphill to the beginning of the Ridge Trail. I’m not going to make any apologies; I just don’t like road walking on outings that are supposed to be hikes.

The first section of rock scramble is just a little sampling of what is ahead. Below: Giant boulders along the trail; Christine climbing up the Ridge Trail; Christine taking in the view; A view of the valley; A dog who has panhandling all figured out!

Once we got to the Ridge Trail, things improved a bit.  The trail climbed upward for about two miles. It’s not terribly steep or difficult climbing, but it is steady uphill.  There are occasional switchbacks, lots of gigantic boulders along the trail and even some glimpses of views through the trees.

The higher you climb, the better and more open the views become.  After the first real panoramic view, you get your first little sample of the extensive rock scrambling you’re about to encounter.  The first pass is short, but requires hoisting yourself up through a small opening, then across a flat pancake of rock.  At this point, my boot slipped and I almost toppled over backwards.  Luckily, I was able to hang on long enough for Adam to give me a hand up.

Shortly after that little scramble, you’ll come to what I think is the nicest view on the hike.  Instead of overlooking mountains with a distant peek at Skyline Drive, this viewpoint overlooks the valley below.  The vista is dotted with little farms and winding country roads.  It’s really pretty!  At this point of our hike, we encountered an emaciated, but super-friendly dog.  He had a collar but there didn’t seem to be any human to claim him.  Dogs are not allowed on Old Rag’s hiking trails, so we figured someone brought a dog up anyhow, and then abandoned him when he could no longer follow along the rock scramble.  The dog looked so pitiful and hungry that we ended up sharing some cashews and half a Luna Bar.

The dog followed us along until the scramble began in earnest.  He looked sad to see us go, so we decided to report him to park rangers at the end of our hike, in hopes that they could send someone up to retrieve him and lead him back down to the base of the mountain.

After saying goodbye to the dog, we began nearly one-mile of rock scrambling required to reach the summit of Old Rag via the Ridge Trail.  Anyone wishing to reach the summit without the scramble can follow the Saddle Trail (accessed by either the Weakley Hollow or Old Rag fire roads).  The scramble is the part of this hike that I enjoy most, but also simultaneously fear.  I have vertigo, so there are a couple passes that play tricks on my visual and balance centers.  Otherwise, the scramble is a lot of fun!  It’s almost like a hiking puzzle.  You have to look at each obstacle and plan the best strategy for traversing it.  The scramble is tough – it’s not so much a cardio challenge as it is a strength challenge.  There are lots of places where you’ll rely on  both your upper and lower body strength to carry you across the rocks.  It’s nice to have at least one hiking buddy to help you along.  One particularly steep place, I had to shove Adam up (one hand on each butt cheek) and then he had to tow me up behind him.

Near the beginning of the scramble, you have to drop down into this narrow passage. Below: A variety of obstacles along the rock scramble. Below: Adam shinnies down into the narrow passage pictured above (note the blaze is numbered R22. Each blaze on the scramble is numbered to help rescuers find injured people more quickly); More scenes along the scramble.

The summit of Old Rag is beautiful and decorated with many large and interesting boulders.  It’s the perfect place to enjoy a snack while taking in the view.  We watched the clouds clearing away, ate cheese and trail mix and watched falcon soaring on the breeze.  It may have been a peregrine, as they are known to nest on Old Rag, but we’re really not sure.

After leaving the summit, the hike becomes sort of tedious.  Yes, it’s all downhill, and you’ll pass a couple interesting trail shelters (Byrd’s Nest and Old Rag).  Both are available for day use only.  There is one more decent view.  But right after passing the Old Rag Shelter, you’ll reach the Berry Hollow fire road.  You’re only on that for a short while, until you meet the Weakley Hollow fire road.  You’re on that road for the remainder of the loop until you come back to the paved road at the trailhead.  Honestly, everything after the scramble on this hike is just not fun to me – too many miles of featureless road walking.   All in all, the Old Rag hike has close to 4.5 miles of road walking (over half the hike).  Adam and I were eager to finish up our hike, so we jogged most of the way back along the fire road and paved road.

Adam pretends to balance a giant boulder. Below: More scenes along the scramble.

When we got back to the car, we told the ranger at the check-in station about the skinny dog.  She laughed and said “Oh, him!  He’s our resident Old Rag beggar!”  Apparently the dog belongs to a local family.  He likes to take daily hikes to solicit treats from people climbing the mountain.  He sure tricked us!

The parking lot had really filled up since we arrived!  We were glad to be done, and on out way to get some lunch (fried chicken – yay!).

When I reflect back on hiking Old Rag, and what could be done to improve the experience, I can think of a few things.  One idea I think would work well is to issue a finite number of permits per day to hike the mountain.  Perhaps limiting numbers on weekends would be enough.  I think if they could limit hikers, they could reopen the upper lot and eliminate almost two miles of road walking.  Another thought is to limit the number of people allowed per hiking party.  So many church youth groups and college clubs hike Old Rag in huge crowds.  This causes massive ‘traffic jams’along the scramble.  No fun!  I also think that limiting hikers would go along way toward alleviating the trail damage and erosion on Old Rag.  The trail is crumbling, lots of rocks on the scramble have been worn to a smooth polish under years’of boot traffic, and sadly there is garbage everywhere.  It’s a trail that would benefit greatly from being enjoyed by fewer people.

That said, I think every lover of the outdoors in Virginia should hike Old Rag at least once!  The scramble is truly without compare.

Adam Says…

Well, Christine summed it up nicely describing the pressure that I have been putting on her to tackle Old Rag.  We last did this hike together shortly before we started this blog.  The logo that we use for the website is actually taken from a photo of Old Rag, so it was a must do.  About every year, I put together a list of hikes that we have talked about doing in Virginia and we hang it on our refrigerator.  After we finish the hike, we have a ceremonial highlighter that we use to highlight the hikes we’ve finished.  For the last few years of printing a new list, Old Rag has been one of the few that has not been highlighted before the latest version is posted.  I let Christine do the honors of marking Old Rag off the list – and she was happy to do so.

Adam on the Summit. Below: Summit scenery; Some kind of bird of prey.

I would also agree with Christine that Old Rag is very overused.  One thing that makes this hike particularly challenging during the rock scramble is that the rocks are so smooth, you could easily slip.  When it has just rained, you know you will have no footing whatsoever.  Many of these boulders have no handholds or footholds, so you do have to be creative with how you will get through the scramble.  I would recommend that you do this hike with someone else to help you through the scramble.  I think Christine especially enjoyed the opportunity of putting both of her hands on my butt and shoving with all of her might.  It’s not very often that she gets to do that.

The Old Rag day-use shelter. Below: Adam takes in the last nice view on the way down; The Byrd's Nest day-use shelter; The crowded Old Rag parking lot.

The hike begins from the parking lot and consists of walking up a paved and then gravel road for about .9 miles until you reach a smaller blocked off gravel lot (with a portable toilet) and a sign for the trailhead to the left.  This begins the Ridge Trail.  The trail starts off as a gradual ascent through the forest.  At about 2.3 miles, you reach the first of several switchbacks.  There isn’t a lot of note on the main portion of the trail as you are just walking uphill through the woods, without any notable views.  At about 3.2 miles, you reach a nice overlook.  As soon as you leave this spot, the rock scrambling will begin.  You have about one mile of rock scrambling until you reach the summit.  This path is quite dangerous as you have to navigate down tight crevasses, around boulders open to large drop-offs, and up other boulders with slick surfaces.  The summit marker will indicate the end of the tough climbing.  There are several places to take in the panoramic views at the top and some of the more adventurous will climb up some of the large boulders at the top.  Once you are done taking in the views backtrack to the trail and then take a right on to the Saddle Trail.  At about 4 miles you reach, the Byrds Nest Shelter No. 1, a day-use only shelter.  Continue down the steep trail and at 4.5 miles, you will reach another day-use Old Rag shelter.  Continue down the trail and at 4.9 miles, you reach the junction with the Weakley Hollow fire road.  Take a right on this fire road and you have about 3 miles of this fire road to walk down before you reach a few bridges and finally the smaller blocked-off Old Rag gravel lot.  Go back the way you came and you should reach your vehicle around 8.8 miles.

I do think we have put a lot of warnings about this hike, but the reason that this hike is likely so popular is due to the challenge and the amazing views.  The summit of Old Rag does provide some of the best views in Virginia.  Some people even do rock climbing at the top to rappel over the edge and make their way back up.  On a clear day, you can see for miles of countryside and layers of mountains.  I know most people do put this on their list of must-hikes in Virginia.  I recommend to tackle this hike as early in the morning as possible to beat the crowds.  If you wait until the middle of the day, you will likely face people-jams as the navigating through the rock scramble takes a while.

For any of those interested in geocaching, there are two geocaches nearby the trail:

• Old Rag Cache
• Old Rag Mountain – earthcache that requires a photo and some answers to questions to prove you found the cache

For further reading about Old Rag and its history, check out the Climber’s Guide to Old Rag Mountain with some interesting information about the history of the area and the USGS’Hiker’s Guide to the Geology of Old Rag.

I really have to hand it to Christine for confronting her vertigo and facing Old Rag.  I told her I wouldn’t bother her again to do the hike since we now officially have it on the blog, but I will probably do it again sometime.  I think this hike does have about 1.5 miles of very exciting climbing and wonderful views, but the rest of the hike (especially the way back on the fire roads) seems a little boring and you will look forward to seeing your car in the parking lot after the long hike back.  The last time we did this hike was on a fall day at the peak of fall color.  If you can find a day like that to tackle this hike, you won’t regret it.

Trail Notes

• Distance – 8.8 miles
  
• Elevation Change – about 2600 feet total.
  
• Difficulty – 4.  The uphill climbing is gradual and never terribly steep, but the scramble requires good upper and lower body strength.
• Trail Conditions – 2.  I think the trail is eroded and worn smooth in many places due to years of overuse.
  
• Views – 5.  The views are wonderful and include both mountain and valley views.
• Wildlife – 3.  There have been a fair number of bear sightings on Old Rag.  You also have a good chance of seeing birds of prey on the summit.
  
• Ease to Navigate – 4.  Follow the signs.  This well-traveled trail is well-marked. Distances on the markers are out-of-date and refer to mileage when the upper lot was still open.
  
• Solitude – 0.  Can I give this a negative score?
  

Directions to trailhead:  From Sperryville, Route 211, turn onto Route 522 and follow it south for .8 mile. Turn right on Route 231, follow 8 miles, turn right onto Route 601 and follow signs to the parking area, approximately 3 miles.
From Madison, Route 29 Business,  turn onto Route 231 and follow it for 12.8 miles. Turn left onto Route 602.
Follow signs for the parking area. Old Rag parking is approximately 3 miles from the turn onto Route 602.

The bike ride along this loop gives you beautiful lakeside views in the interior of Acadia National Park.

A view of Eagle Lake from the Carriage Roads. Below: The Duck Brook Bridge entrance to the Carriage Roads; There are lots of water lilies in Acadia's ponds; Adam bikes along the shore of Jordan Pond. The rocks lining the trail are affectionately known as 'Rockefeller's Teeth'.

Adam Says…

This is truly one of our favorite places to bike!  If you are ever near Acadia, I would recommend taking a bike ride around Eagle Lake.  While there are 45 miles of carriage roads in Acadia National Park, the loop around Eagle Lake is by far the most popular.

The carriage roads were donated and built by John D. Rockefeller, Jr., emulating the carriage roads his father created in Ohio and New York.  While the Park Loop Road provides access to much of the circumference of Acadia National Park and ocean views, the carriage roads provide great access to the interior, providing glimpses from the top of mountains and around the lakes and ponds.

I recently had a co-worker, Kristen, that was going to Maine to visit some family property.  Having been to Acadia many times, I planned out an ambitious day for her and her sister to capture the things I enjoy up here.  She wasn’t able to do everything I suggested, but she did the Eagle Lake/Jordan Pond section of the trail.  They rented bikes in Bar Harbor and decided to bike from town to reach the carriage roads.  There is a large hill from Bar Harbor to reach the entrance to the Eagle Lake parking lot.  Her sister was yelling up ahead to her, “KRISTEN!  I DON’T THINK I CAN MAKE IT!”  I should have been explicit in telling her to rent a bike rack and park near the carriage road entrance. Some people bike to the carriage roads from town, but I think it is best to park closer or you’ll burn up all your energy before you get to enjoy the actual ride.

Adam on his rented comfort bike, passing under the Eagle Lake bridge. It was quite different from the mountain bike he normally rides. Below: Christine's parents take a break after a long uphill stretch along Eagle Lake. This is the spot we took a wrong turn!

We started our ride, by parking on Duck Brook Road.  Right before the roadside parking, you pass a beaver dam on New Mill Meadow.  Park your vehicle near the bridge that begins your journey.  The carriage road intersections are all numbered on wooden posts (that also serve as posts to provide you some overall direction) and have this trail started at Post #5.  We took a right after crossing the bridge to make our way around Witch Hole Pond.  The trail does tend to go uphill during this part of the section about 100 feet.  In 1.1 miles you will take a left at Post #3.  You will begin to see some up close views of Witch Hole Pond.  At 1.3 miles, you take a left at Post #2.  The trail continues to loop around Witch Hole Pond.  At mile 2.3, you will reach Post #4, bearing right and seeing views of the small Halfmoon Pond.  At mile 3.4, you will reach Post #6, going under a bridge and close access to the Eagle Lake parking lot.  Most people start their bike ride here, so expect lots of people around this bridge.  After going through the bridge, you will arrive at Post #9 at mile 3.5.   The trail goes along the western side of Eagle Lake, but goes up during one of the tougher sections of this loop ascending over 200 feet.  At mile 5.5, you will come to Post #8.  Take a break if you would like here, for the toughest part of the first section is over.  At Post #8, take a right (this is where I failed to follow the map closely which caused us to retrace our steps and made us go uphill).  At mile 5.7, you will reach Post #10.  Take a left at this junction to make your way.  The trail does ascend slightly.  At mile 7.0, the trail begins to open up to views of Jordan Pond and the Bubbles to your left.  At mile 7.9, you reach the Jordan Pond House and Post #14.  Bear left at this intersection for about .3 mile passing by Post #15 and Post #16.  Cross the Park Loop Road carefully and then you will see the large Jordan Pond Gatehouse.  Bike carefully through the gate.  At mile 9.8, you reach Post #17, near Wildwood Stables.  Take a left here and your climb begins again.  Once the trail levels out, you will pass by Bubble Pond on your right.  At mile 12.9, you reach Post #7.  Take a right at this junction and you will begin to enjoy the best views of Eagle Lake.  The trail continues along the eastern side of Eagle Lake.  At mile 15.1, you will reach Post #6 again.  Take a right and go under the bridge.  At mile 16.2, you will reach Post #4.  Take a right here and at mile 17.3, you will reach Post #5 to complete your loop.

As there are a lot of intersections, I would recommend picking up a map of the trails.  While you can purchase them from many places in Bar Harbor or Acadia National Park, they do have some decent carriage road maps that are free.  These are typically in some of the boxes attached to the post intersections near some of the entrances to the carriage roads.  I did spot these boxes at Post #5 and Post #8.  You can also download one here.

Lunch on the lawn at Jordan Pond is not to be missed. Below: Views of Jordan Pond and the Bubbles.

If you do your planning well, you can include a stop near the halfway point at the Jordan Pond House Restaurant.  This is a must-visit restaurant while in Acadia. Get a seat outside and enjoy popovers as you take in the scenes of Jordan Pond and the Bubbles.  The menu has been expanded since the last time we had been here, so we were thrilled to try some new things.  Christine really enjoys their lobster quiche and I like their cranberry walnut chicken salad sandwich.  While the prices are a little high, you do have one of the best views for a restaurant.  There are plenty of places nearby to lock your bike and there is a gift shop that sells everything from hiking gear to pottery to Gatorade.  They even sell Jordan Pond coffee and popover mix.

I have two favorite sections of scenery along this trail – the view near the rock slide approaching Jordan Pond and the eastern side of Eagle Lake.  This is a bike ride that almost invites you to take your time by soaking in the great views of the lake, taking your time to pick wild blueberries near Witch Hole Pond, or listening for the cry of loons on Eagle Lake or Jordan Pond.

Christine Says…

Biking Acadia’s Carriage Roads is always one of the Maine activities I look forward to most on our trips!  It’s funny, when I visited Acadia as a child and teen, I never tried the carriage roads by bike.  Instead I preferred to run.  Looking back, I don’t know what I was thinking!  Sure… the carriage roads are great for walking and running, but I can’t imagine a better way to see them than by bicycle (Unless I was given the option to go on horseback; but unless you arrive at Acadia with your own horse, the closest you can get is taking a chauffeured horse carriage ride.)  The car-free carriage roads in Acadia meander through the woods, passing ponds and lakes.  If you’re lucky, you’ll spot beavers or loons swimming.  You get occasional glimpses of the ocean.  You breathe in the clean, evergreen-scented air.  And best of all… you can bike right up to the Jordan Pond House and indulge in popovers with butter, popovers with strawberry jam, popovers with soup, popovers with salad and even popovers a la mode!  Don’t even get me started on how much I love popovers a la mode.  They’re one of my raison d’êtres.  I’m not even kidding – ask Adam!

Sometimes we bring our bikes on the long drive up to Maine, but this time we drove our small car to save gas money, and ended up renting bikes at the Bar Harbor Bicycle Shop.  The folks there are really friendly and knowledgeable and their bikes are all expertly maintained.  We tried renting a carrier for our car, but none of them worked with our particular hatchback.  Thankfully, my parents were vacationing with us and were able to haul our bikes to the start point of our ride.  Technically, you can ride your bike from the shop to the carriage road entrance, but it’s an arduous uphill ride along a very busy road.  Biking the few extra miles from the shop to the trails takes a lot of the enjoyment out of the ride, so we avoid it any way we can.

On this particular day, we decided to follow one of our absolute favorite routes.  Starting at Duck Brook Bridge, we biked around Witch Hole, then around Eagle Lake, past the north shore of Jordan Pond to the Jordan Pond House.  After lunch, we continued the route past Wildwood Stables, along Bubble Pond and the opposite shore of Eagle Lake.  A few final miles along the other side of Witch Hole returned us to our car.

Even though the Gatehouse sits in the park, it's still privately owned. Below: A horse carriage on its way from Wildwood Stables to Jordan Pond.

It’s a fabulous route that shows off a little bit of all of Acadia’s best scenery.  There are some substantial hills along the route, and it’s not uncommon to see people walking their bikes uphill instead of riding them.  I remember the first time I biked the carriage roads many years ago, the first steep hill along the first side of Eagle Lake about killed me!  Despite the fact I was beet red and out of breath, I was determined NOT to walk my bike.  I did have to take a water break or two, but I never had to get off and push my bike uphill.  Nowadays, I’m in much better shape (even though I’m almost 20 years older) and biking the hills is no sweat at all!  In fact, I must brag that I biked easily past dozens of people headed uphill. 

The trail marker at the far end of Eagle Lake is one of the only places that directions get confusing along the ride.  The trail branches off in several different directions at this point.  As (bad) luck would have it, we biked following our instinctive directions instead of looking at our detailed map.  We ended up going the wrong way for almost two miles – mostly along a steep, beautiful downhill coaster of a descent.  This meant we had a tough uphill slog once we finally realized we were going the wrong way.

I suppose we could have kept on going in the wrong direction – most of the trails eventually cross one another and we would have ultimately arrived at the Jordan Pond House.  However, I really enjoy the ride along the north shore of the pond, so we decided to retrace our ride.  My parents decided to stay the course (my mom didn’t want to bike back uphill) and meet us at the Pond House.

The uphill turned out to be less painful than I imagined and after about 15 minutes, we were coasting downhill along the edge of Jordan Pond.  I enjoyed the sparkling water, the first glimpse of the Bubbles, passing the big rock slide and knowing I’d soon be eating popovers.

The ride along Jordan Pond goes really quickly.  At Jordan Pond, the first thing we always do is get our name on the waiting list for a table on the lawn.  If you visit the Pond House, you can almost always get an indoor table immediately, but you DO NOT want to do that.  The best place to sit is outside on the lawn at one of the picnic tables overlooking the water and the Bubbles.  I always start my meal off with lemonade.  It’s fresh-squeezed and comes unsweetened with a tiny pitcher of simple syrup, so you can sweeten the drink to your personal taste.  The regular lemonade is good, but the strawberry lemonade, loaded with fresh strawberry puree, is even better.  As soon as you finish placing your order, a waiter will come around with a basket of piping hot popovers.  They’re served with butter and homemade strawberry preserves.  On this particular day, I ordered the lobster quiche, which has always been a favorite of mine.  I also couldn’t refuse a second popover, even though it cost a little extra.  Because we were biking and I didn’t want to feel over-full, I had to pass on the a la mode (for now).

After lunch, we refilled water bottles and took a few minutes to digest lunch while browsing the Acadia gift shop.  We also stopped to chat with the Friends of Acadia who were working on fundraising and recruiting new members.  We joined a few years ago and are happy to support our favorite National Park.

After leaving the Jordan Pond House, we crossed the Park Loop Road and passed by the privately owned gate house.  We happened to time our departure perfectly to pass a team of draft horses pulling a buckboard up the hill.  They’re such huge and beautiful creatures!

The ride along this section is wooded and doesn’t pass anything remarkable.  You can take a side road to get down to Wildwood Stables and Day Mountain, but we continued on toward Bubble Pond.

A look at Bubble Pond from the Carriage Roads

Bubble Pond is a gorgeous spot.  We’ve seen loons there and I’ve even taken a photo of the pond that was featured on the cover of Boston Magazine’s 2011 Summer Travel issue.  This year, the view was as lovely as ever, but the experience was marred by a couple changing the diaper of their caterwauling toddler.  They had the child laid out on a rock on the pond’s edge… the edge of the pond that is a source of public drinking water.  Ewww!  I know babies need changing, but for God’s sake… take the diaper-changing activities off the trail and away from the water source.

After passing the end of Bubble Pond, you go over a neat arched bridge, cross the Park Loop Road again and make the final push back toward the opposite shore of Eagle Lake.  As the trail gets closer to the lake side, you get some really lovely lake and mountain views.  You also pass one of the most popular kayak launch spots in the park.

Shortly after passing the launch, you arrive at the Eagle Lake parking area.  This area is another parking option for accessing the Carriage Roads, but it’s usually horrible congested.  We continued past this spot to bike the remainder of the trail along Witch Hole and back to our car.

Witch Hole is very pretty - full of lily pads and beaver dams.

It was a fantastic ride – one that I know I’ll want to do again and again!  After we wrapped up the ride, we headed back to the hotel to get cleaned up before dinner.  Sometime between the end of the ride and leaving for dinner a heavy fog rolled over the island.  It’s really amazing how quickly clear blue skies can turn to thick, cottony fog in Maine!  It’s part of the island’s charm, I suppose!  We enjoyed the foggy evening at one of our favorite lobster pounds, Thurston’s (in Bernard).  If you’re on MDI and want a classic Maine lobster experience, don’t miss Thurston’s!

Trail Notes

• Distance – 17.3 miles.  We added about another 4.4 miles due to our misdirection.
  
• Elevation Change – Approximately 500 feet.
  
• Difficulty – 2.  There are some uphill sections which will have you switching to lower gears, but it is doable for most people.  Take breaks whenever you need one or walk your bike up the steeper sections.
• Trail Conditions – 4.5.  The only thing better is pavement.  The carriage roads have small crushed gravel, which is good for just about any type of bike.  I would recommend a hybrid or mountain bike though due to the gravel.
  
• Views – 3.5.  Most of the views are of the lakes, so you can’t see for miles and miles in most parts, but the lakes and ponds are gorgeous.
• Waterfalls/Streams – 4.  You get great views of Witch Hole Pond, Eagle Lake, Jordan Pond, and Bubble Pond.
• Wildlife – 1.  You may see an occasional loon or gull in the lakes, but not much else other than a red squirrel.
  
• Ease to Navigate – 3.  There are lots of turns on this trail, but bring a map and follow the signposts and you should do well.
  
• Solitude – 0.  This is an extremely popular spot for bikers, walkers, runners, and even horses.  
  

Directions to trailhead: Head west on 233 out of Bar Harbor.  After about a mile outside of town, take a right on Duck Brook Road.  Travel for about two miles until you reach the roadside parking near the park service building.

Rohrbaugh Cliffs at Sunset. Below: Gearing up at the car before starting the hike; Making the short walk down Forest Road 75; Adam points out our route on the trail sign.

Christine and Adam Say…

For this particular post, we decided to team up and write one massive post, instead of the normal ‘He Says, She Says’versions. Enjoy!)

Last year, we participated in a Potomac Appalachian Trail Club workshop called Backpacking 101 (read part one, part two, and part three).  Initially, we were scheduled to do an overnight trip to the Dolly Sods Wilderness as a ‘graduation’ from our class.  Sadly, we ended up missing that trip because Christine’s ankle sprain still hadn’t healed enough for the rigors of backpacking.  While the make-up trip we eventually did to Hazel Mountain in Shenandoah National Park was great, we still wanted to do an overnight trip in Dolly Sods. For the best maps of the area, print off the Northeast and Southeast sections of these maps.

Dolly Sods is such a unique area for the mid-Atlantic region. It’s the only area close to us with a sub-Arctic tundra climate – loaded with heath barrens, blueberry bushes, acidic bogs and coniferous forest.  You feel like you’re somewhere far north of West Virginia when you visit this wilderness area.

The route we chose through Dolly Sods was of a length and difficulty we would typically choose for an easy day hike.  (5 miles with 900 feet of elevation change)  But we decided it would be fun to do an easy hike and enjoy camping at one of the most beautiful sites in the entire Monongahela National Forest’s wilderness area.

We also were lucky to have some awesome company for this trip.  In Backpacking 101, we met a nice couple – Suzanne and Anthony.  We enjoyed hanging out with them on our class trip to Hazel Mountain and had stayed in touch with them ever since.  We tried planning trips together a couple times, but until this trip our schedules just hadn’t matched up.  We were thrilled when plans finally came together for this Fourth of July weekend trip.

Day One:

Suzanne and Anthony drove down to our house on Friday night so we would have time to go through all our gear before getting an early(ish) start on Saturday morning.  We spent most of the evening fiddling with our packs, splitting up shared gear and contemplating how many Clif bars we truly needed to survive our expedition. That evening, it looked like an REI store exploded in our basement.  We laughed about how much stuff we had to pack for just one night of camping.  We ran through our checklist to make sure we had everything – stove, tent, sleeping bag, clothes, food, emergency kit, etc.

On Saturday, we had a big breakfast and were out the door a little after 9:30.  We didn’t make it to the trailhead until after 1:00.  We made a stop at Seneca Rocks Visitor’s Center and ended up buying another trail guide and a new map for West Virginia hiking.  (Not for use on this trip, but just to have for the future.) We also stopped at the Subway in Franklin, WV to grab sandwiches to have for lunch on the trail.

When we got to the Fisher Springs Run trailhead, the parking lot was overflowing with cars.  A couple people had decided to park sideways in the lot instead of straight-on, so they took up space that could have accommodated five or six more cars.  It was a little annoying and worrisome – would we get out to Rohrbaugh Cliffs and find all the prime campsites already occupied?  We ended up parking a short distance down Forest Road 75, in a patch of dirt just wide enough to get our car off the road.

The forest floor was a sea of ferns. Below: Adam hikes along the Fisher Springs Run Trail; The trail junction of Fisher Springs and Rohrbaugh Plains; Subway for lunch; Our huge pile of packs; Adam traverses a rocky section of trail, Suzanne crosses a small stream.

We found space to shove the sandwiches into Suzanne’s pack, slathered ourselves with sunscreen and bug spray, and got to the business of walking.  Almost immediately after stepping off the dusty, gravel forest road onto the trail, we found ourselves ensconced in a cool, lush, green forest.  Ferns spread across the ground for as far as the eye could see.  The trail descended gradually, occasionally crossing small, mostly dry streams.  The trail got rockier as we followed it for a little over a mile to its junction with the Rohrbaugh Plains trail.  We stopped at the trail junction and ate our lunch.  We chatted with a passing backpacker who was doing a 19-mile loop through Dolly Sods.  She was on a solo trip and told us she was headed down into the Red Creek basin.  We asked her if she had noticed many camps set up near the cliffs.  She said she hadn’t seen anyone, so we took that as a hopeful sign.

After lunch, we took a left onto the Rohrbaugh Plains trail.  The trail at this point was all rocks.  They almost looked fitted together like a jigsaw puzzle.  Almost immediately after the rocky patch, we dipped deeply into a ravine with a pretty flowing stream.  It was a perfect water source for backpacking. We figured that in the worst case scenario, we could hike back to this point to fetch water for cooking and cleaning at camp.

The last 1.2 miles to our campsite ascended ever so slightly, winding past giant mossy boulders and through dense thickets of rhododendron.  With about a half mile to go, we passed another trail junction with the Wildlife Trail.  Taking the Wildlife Trail to the Rohrbaugh Plains trail is probably the most popular route for day hikers to reach Rohrbaugh Cliffs.  After this trail junction, we crossed a swampy, muddy area and walked across a grassy meadow.  A couple tenths of a mile past the meadow, we came to a beautiful clearing where we ended up making camp.

Crossing the meadow. Below: Christine and Adam's camp; Adam collects water for cooking and cleaning; Anthony and Suzanne's camp.

There were so many soft, flat spots that were perfect for our tents!  We chose a couple spots located out of sight of the trail.  We had a fire pit, a nice place for cooking, a view and shady trees.  It was nothing short of perfect.

It felt great to shed our packs and get to work setting up camp.  Our Mountain Hardwear tent (the Drifter 3) is super-simple and was pitched in just a few moments.  While Adam worked on staking the tent, Christine inflated our Big Agnes pads.  We put them in the tent along with our sleeping bags, so they’d have some time to re-fluff after being compressed in stuff sacks all day.

On this backpacking trip, we had a few new and exciting ‘creature comforts’.  Since our last backpacking trip, we acquired Alite camp chairs.  They’re so comfortable and lightweight!  We also both got the large Thermarest pillows.  They’re really bulky and take up a ton of pack space, but they’re very lightweight and make a world’s difference for getting comfortable at night.  Christine also brought a fitted sheet for her sleeping pad.  Even though the sheet is made by Thermarest, it fits the Big Agnes pad perfectly.  A sheet is not a necessity, but it definitely improves the texture and breathability of your sleeping pad.  Christine especially hates feeling clammy or slippery when she’s trying to sleep, so having the sheet made a huge difference.  Neither of us actually sleep inside our sleeping bag unless it’s freezing cold.  We prefer to open our bags up and use them like quilts.

After we finished setting up our tent, we carried our cooking stuff down to our kitchen area.  We also pulled out all our ‘smellables’ and set them aside so they could easily be stowed away in our hanging bear bag.  Christine found a couple branch stubs to hang our trekking poles and our packs. We both covered our packs with garbage bags in case it rained overnight.

Anthony and Suzanne were still working on getting there camp set up, so we decided to go on a water run.  We hadn’t passed a better water source after the stream near the trail junction, so we took our collapsible bucket and headed back down the trail.  Filling up was easy, but getting two gallons of water in a soft-sided bucket back to camp without spilling anything over a 1.2 mile distance was substantially trickier!  We were very thankful we went as a pair to get water, because it was nice to trade off carrying the bucket. We joked that it was like being in a challenge on some adventure reality show.  We made it back without much spillage at all!

When we got back, Anthony and Suzanne were all set up, so we decided to walk a few hundred feet further down the trail to explore the cliffs.  Rohrbaugh Cliffs were spectacular.  The view into the valley below was all wilderness – not a single road or farm or house – just mountains and streams for as far as the eye could see.

Adam on Rohrbaugh Cliffs. Below: Wild, ripe blueberries; A cute frog that visited our camp; Rosebay Rhododendron were in bloom; Our group on Rohrbaugh Cliffs; A couple more views of the cliffside.

We visited the area at a truly beautiful time of year.  The Rosebay Rhododendrons were just starting to bloom.  The mountain laurel was a bit past peak, but there were still plenty of flowers to enjoy.  And best of all WILD BLUEBERRIES were everywhere along the cliffs!  Suzanne and Christine were significantly more excited about the berries than the guys and spent a lot of time searching for ripe berries tucked into the bushes.

Most of the late afternoon was spent relaxing near camp and getting dinner ready.  Around 5:30, Adam got out the JetBoil and boiled water for all of our dinners.  We had wanted to come up with some homemade backpacking recipes, but never got our act together.  Adam and Christine ended up eating Backpacker’s Pantry Chicken Risotto with Mocha Mousse Pie for dessert.  It was satisfying and very filling!  Anthony and Suzanne had macaroni and cheese and blueberry cobbler from some backpacking meal company (AlpineAire) none of us had heard of before.  They were pretty happy with their dinner, too.

Chef Adam filters and boils water for dinner. Below: Chicken Risotto for dinner; Anthony and Suzanne relax after dinner; Playing Monopoly on the cliffs; Hanging our bear bag.

We cleaned up our dishes, brushed our teeth (We love Wisps for backpacking) and hoisted our bear bag into the highest, safest tree we could find.  We decided to play cards and watch sunset from the cliffs.  We found a big flat rock near the edge and played the card version of Monopoly. The game took a long time, and Adam eventually won.  The sky turned to hues of pink and soft purple and the sun dipped down behind the mountains.  It was so beautiful!

Shortly before full dark, a couple more groups of backpackers showed up – maybe five people and two dogs.  They set up their camps down the trail from us.  So even though we weren’t the only people up there, we still felt like we had a good measure of solitude.  It definitely was not the situation we feared when we saw the packed parking lot at the trailhead. We’re guessing most of the other backpackers ended up along Red Creek.

Once the sun was down, we all retreated to our tents.  Christine listened to a book on her iPod for a while.  By the light of his headlamp, Adam enjoyed reading some of his book by John Muir.  He’s been reading this book exclusively on backpacking trips.  It’s a nice tribute to read something by the ultimate outdoorsman while having our own experience with nature.

Christine started getting really sleepy, so she stowed her iPod away and dozed off, only to be woken almost immediately by the sound of fireworks in the valley below.  We think we heard fireworks shows from three different locations, because there were definitely three distinct grand finales.  The booming sounds and bursts of light in the sky came from different directions, too.  We contemplated leaving our tent and going back out to the cliffs to see if we could see the fireworks from above, but we ended up staying put. Christine didn’t feel like getting dressed again. When all was said and done, we kind of regretted not going back out to see the fireworks.

Eventually the fireworks drew to a close, and Christine drifted back to sleep.  Unfortunately, Adam did not sleep that well on this trip.  He was physically comfortable, but he just wasn’t tired enough to sleep soundly.  Going to bed shortly after sunset just isn’t what his body is used to, so he did a lot of tossing and turning during the night.

Our sunset card game. Below: Layers of mountains frame the Red Creek Valley; We had a pretty sunset; Suzanne takes a few final photos of the evening sky.

Around 2:30 a.m., Adam shook Christine awake to close the rainfly on the tent – a storm was approaching.  Christine stumbled and grumbled and totally failed at closing the fly.  Adam had to crawl over her to get both sides of the tent closed.  Christine completely lacks dexterity when she’s half asleep. The storm never really materialized beyond some lightning and wind.  We both fell back to sleep and didn’t wake up again until about 6:15.  Christine said it was the best night of sleep she’s ever had in a tent.

Day Two

Shortly after sunrise, we got out of the tent and took a walk over to the cliffs.  Christine thought there might be some pretty morning light, but it was completely cloudy.  Back at camp, we started breaking down our tent, deflating our sleeping pads and re-stuffing our sleeping bags.  We got the bear bag down and got everything ready to cook breakfast.

Christine tried Starbuck’s instant coffee, Via, for the first time.  It was surprisingly delicious.  Once she added sweetener and powdered Coffeemate, it tasted almost identical to a cup of brewed coffee.  In addition to coffee, we had boxes of apple-grape juice and instant maple-brown sugar oatmeal.  We figured that would be plenty of food to give us energy for the short hike out.

After everyone was done with breakfast, we finished packing up and cleaning up our camp area.  We were back on the trail by 8:45.  Our exit route simply retraced the trail we had hiked in.  We were back at the car by 10:15.

Breaking camp in the morning. Below: Fat Boy's Pork Palace for lunch!

On the way home, we stopped at Fat Boy’s Pork Palace for lunch.  With a name like that, you know it’s going to have perfect options for a post-backpacking calorie splurge!  We enjoyed BBQ sandwiches with coleslaw and French fries.  Suzanne got breakfast and Anthony got a burger.  It was all delicious!

Once we were back at our house, we split up our group gear and saw Anthony and Suzanne on their way.  Christine said her post-backpacking shower might have been one of the best showers of her entire life.  It always feels awesome to wash away DEET, sunscreen and sweat!

We all had a great time on the trip. We’re already trying to plan our next backpacking adventure for some time in September!  Although, it’s going to be hard to top the scenery at Dolly Sods!

Trail Notes

• Distance – 5.2 miles total. (plus an additional 2.4 mile walk back to fetch water for camp)
  
• Elevation Change – 900 feet.  The Fisher Springs Run trail descends about 500 feet and the Rohraugh Plains ascends about 400 feet.
  
• Difficulty – 2.  The hike was not that difficult, even with 35 pounds on my back.
• Trail Conditions – 3.  The trail was well-maintained, but there are lots of rocky spots where you could turn your ankle.
  
• Views –5.  The views from Rohrbaugh cliffs were quite spectacular and it was nice to see the sun disappear over the mountains.
  
• Wildlife – 1.  We were expecting to see some wildlife up here, but we didn’t see anything other than squirrels, frogs and some birds.  We did wake up to the sounds of dark-eyed juncos in the morning.
  
• Ease to Navigate – 3.5.  There are not any blazes on trails at Dolly Sods, but the trails are very well-defined and signs are in place to mark junctions.  Stay on the trail as much as possible and you won’t have any trouble.  I can imagine that when leaves fall and cover the trail in the fall, it would be more challenging to find the trail.
  
• Solitude – 4.  On a nice day, you may see some people at the overlook. 
  

Directions to trailhead:  From Seneca Rocks, go North on WV 28 for 12 miles.  Take a left on Jordan Run Road.  Go one mile up Jordan Run Road and take a left on to Forest Road 19.  In 6 miles, Forest Road 19 comes to a T on to Forest Road 75.  Take a right, heading north on Forest Road 75.  Drive for three miles until reaching the small parking lot and the trailhead for Fisher Springs Run.


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Wookie Enjoys the View from Duncan Knob. Below: The foliage along the trail was pretty; The scramble is a foreboding pile of boulders; Adam and Wookie make their way up the scramble.

Christine Says…

On Friday, Adam and I both took a vacation day from work to get in some fall hiking. We decided Duncan Knob suited our plans perfectly.  We wanted to avoid hikes in the national park (the crowds are dreadful this time of year) and we didn’t want to drive more than an hour. We did a little online research to look at our route options, and found pretty much everyone did the hike as an 8.7 mile loop.  The common route passes by just one spot with a view and includes significant uphill climbs on both the outgoing and return arms of the loop.

We decided to look at our maps to see if there was a more direct route to Duncan Knob.  I know lots of people primarily hike for the exercise. They love anything that makes the trail longer, steeper and more challenging.  I am not one of those people.  I don’t mind distance or elevation as long as there is a payoff for it.  But if there’s a more direct route to get the same view, I usually opt to take it.  Needless to say, we were pleased to find a 3.5 mile, out-and-back route that involved just 1200 feet of elevation gain.

The Blue Blazed Trail Gap Creek Trail. Below: The Gap Creek trail is well-marked; Near the beginning of the trail you cross a small stream; Wookie enjoyed running back and forth across the bridge.

The hike starts at the Gap Creek trailhead on Crisman Hollow Road.  You’ll walk a short way up a blue-blazed fire road until you see a campsite on the left side of the road.  The road continues uphill from this point, but you’ll want to cut through the campsite and cross the small bridge over the stream.  After crossing the bridge, the trail climbs steadily uphill.  For the first mile, the elevation gain is very gentle and is punctuated by flat stretches.  The trail is extremely rocky the entire way.  At mile 1.2, the blue-blazed Gap Creek trail intersects the yellow-blazed Scothorn Gap trail.  Continue on the blue-blazed trail until you reach a level place near the top of the ridge at 1.5 miles.  There’s a great campsite at this spot.  It has a big stone fire pit ringed by log benches.  There are lots of flat places to pitch tents, too.

Directly across from the campsite, the Duncan Knob spur trail begins.  The trail is blazed white and climbs steeply uphill to the summit.  As you walk along, you’ll notice the rocks on the trail are getting larger and more abundant.  Eventually, you step out of the woods and find yourself facing an enormous pyramid-shaped summit of jumbled rocks and boulders.

Wookie and Adam scramble upward. Below: The trail becomes progressively rockier; Adam explore the boulders; Wookie spots Adam climbing back down from the geocache.

Climb the rock scramble any number of ways (we followed a rather informal series of cairns along the left side of the rock pile) and you’ll be treated to sweeping views in almost every direction.  The scrambling was fun and not difficult at all.  I found a nice rock “chair” to sit on while Adam found a geocache hidden at the summit.  It was freezing cold and blustery sitting on the rocks, so we didn’t stay too long.

On the way down, we stopped back by the campsite and had some water and a snack.  We even gave our dog, Wookie, some graham crackers and marshmallows from our trail mix.  He did a great job on the rock scramble – especially considering how small he is.  The hike back down was pretty uneventful and just retraced our steps.  What a great hike!  I told Adam it’s been one of my favorite recent hikes.

Adam Says…

Ever since we did the Strickler Knob hike (actually our very first post!), I had been hearing that Duncan Knob also had amazing views.  I believe we put off this hike for a while due to the long 8.7 mile length, combined with lots of elevation gain.  So, I pulled out my map of the area to see if there was a different way.  Sure enough, you can easily get up to Duncan Knob by just sticking to the Gap Creek Trail.  The hike may have a little steeper of an elevation than approaching it from the Scothorn Gap Trail, but the hike up the Gap Creek Trail is much shorter and you aren’t missing much scenery.

The trail does include a few switchbacks once you start the trail over the bridge which takes the pressure of the elevation off your leg muscles.  The hike is almost all uphill, but before you know it you’ve reached the ridge where the campsite is.  We took a break here to see if there was anything else to see along the ridge, before proceeding up the white-blazed trail to the summit of Duncan Knob.  This white-blazed trail is slightly overgrown and some of the white blazes are quite faded, but it wasn’t too hard to navigate.  After only about .2 miles on this trail, we saw the looming rock scramble in front of us.  We decided to approach the rock scramble on the left-hand side.  Once you begin to climb up a few rocks, the views really begin to open up around you.  The rocks weren’t too tough to navigate, but it was harder to help navigate a small dog on a leash.  From the top, you will have great views of Middle Mountain, Waterfall Mountain, Strickler Knob, and Kerns Mountain.  The color was very nice and we took some time to soak in the scenery.

Adam takes in the view from Duncan Knob. Below: A nice campsite on the ridge; Adam and Wookie take a break on the climb down; Wookie did surprisingly well on the scramble, but occasionally he had to be carried.

I left Christine to keep climbing up to the summit of the rock scramble and found the Duncan Knob Geocache.  A few people before me were not able to find it before me, so the owner had taken the posting offline until he had time to investigate.  I’m glad I was able to save the owner a hike back.  This was my 499th find, so I need to do something special for my 500th geocache.

If you haven’t done any hiking off Crisman Hollow Road, I would highly recommend making this a stop in the near future.  With the Massanutten Story Book Trail, Strickler Knob, and Duncan Knob hikes all off this road, I feel this road leads to some amazing hiking gems that are unknown to many.

Wookie Says…

I’m so glad that I finally got invited to go hiking again!  I really enjoyed most of this trail because there wasn’t any water for me to cross.  When we first started the trail, I did a few runs across the wooden bridge with my masters on both sides.  I was feeling frisky and I was ready to get moving.  We made our way up the trail and I felt it wasn’t as bad as I was expecting.  When we got to the final rock scramble, I was a little worried.  I really enjoy climbing up on rocks, but I wouldn’t recommend it to my less-agile canine friends.  There were a couple of moments where I had to perform an iron cross and pull myself up some rocks, but Adam helped navigate me the right way through the maze of boulders.

Wookie enjoys trailmix!

The way down was a little more challenging, so Adam tucked me under his arm for most of the way down to make sure I didn’t get hurt.  I really enjoyed the views from the top of Duncan Knob and I enjoyed sniffing the air around me.  After our hike back down, my masters even let me sample a few pieces of trail mix.  I really liked the marshmallows best!  One time I dropped a marshmallow and when I picked it up again the dirt from the ground made it look like cookies and cream.  I look forward to my next time hiking and I’ll be sure to put on my pitiful, pleading face the next time Adam and Christine get ready to head out for a hike.

Trail Notes

• Distance – 3.5 miles.
• Elevation Change –  1200 feet
• Difficulty – 2.5. The hike is squarely moderate – even with the rock scramble.
• Trail Conditions –3. The trail is in good shape.  The rock scramble is not formally marked and there are some unbalanced rocks.
  
• Views – 5. Beautiful views of the Massanutten Mountain area. The view looking toward Strickler Knob is awesome!
• Waterfalls/streams –2. The stream is seasonal and may be dry part of the year.  When the stream is running, the area is popular with fishers.
  
• Wildlife – 1.5. The area is popular with hunters, so animals tend to be reclusive.  We’ve heard of people spotting bears and deer in the general area, but we’ve never seen larger animals.
  
• Ease to Navigate – 3.5. Trails are clearly blazed, but turns are not labeled and signed like they are in the national park.  It’s a good idea to have a map for this hike.
• Solitude – 4.5. On a beautiful fall day, we saw just one other couple of hikers.

Directions to trailhead: From New Market, take 211 east.  In about 3 miles, take a left on Crisman Hollow Road. The road starts off paved, but turns to gravel.  At about 4.5 miles, park on the right at the Gap Creek trail.  Follow the fire road until you reach the first campsite on the left.  The trail starts behind the campsite at a wooden bridge.

Adam crosses Sharps Bridge on the Greenbrier River Trail. Below: Due to drought conditions, the Greenbrier River was very low; Trail signs mark each entry to the trail; The Clover Lick Depot is one of the old train stops you'll pass on the trail.

Adam Says…

Our main reason for staying around the Marlinton, WV area was to do some biking on the Greenbrier River trail.  A few friends of mine that had done the Virginia Creeper Trail told me that we should do the Greenbrier River Trail sometime.  The trail was very similar to the Virginia Creeper.  They are both rails-to-trails biking trails and don’t take a ton of cardio effort or biking skills to complete.  The scenery may have been a little nicer along the Virginia Creeper; with mountain views and lots of bridges and trestles. However, the Greenbrier trail lacks the dense crowds that you find on the Virginia Creeper.  You’ll have lots of solitude on this trail, but there are also fewer amenities along the way (other than occasional restrooms at campsites).  Christine and I really enjoy the solitude more than anything, so it was great to get away for a nice, quiet, long bike ride.

We started our day with a car shuttle up to the northern terminus of the trail near Cass, WV.  We arranged the shuttle through Appalachian Sport.  We were the only people signed up for the shuttle, so we were able to arrange our own time.  It was nice to talk to our driver (wish we caught his name) about his impressions of the trail.  He was actually the one that gave us the news that JMU beat Virginia Tech in football.  We had been completely “off the grid” for a few days without any cellphone service, TV, or internet. We actually thought he was joking the first time he told us that JMU won.

Water levels were very low on the Greenbrier River. Below: The trail follows the river for almost all of its 78 miles; Adam bikes along the crushed stone trail; A view of the lovely river.

He frequently runs on the trail and told us about his goal to organize a Greenbrier River Challenge t0 raise funds with sponsorships for people to run the entire length of the trail.  A friend of mine from work is one of the few known people to run the entire trail in a single effort (I think he and a couple friends did all 78 miles in a little over 16 hours).  Our shuttle driver also told us that many people find the area between Cass and Marlinton to be the prettiest, but he thinks the entire trail is nice (with the exception of the more populated area between Marlinton and Seebert).

After being dropped off in the parking lot at the Northern Terminus of Slabtown (.5 miles from the town of Cass, WV), we got our gear together and headed down the trail.  Mile markers are posted along the way to help you plan your distance along the trail.  There are also slabs with the letter “W” along the trail, which were used by railroad engineers to know when to blow the whistle when they were approaching road crossings.  The first notable stop along the way is about 9.4 miles in when you reach the Clover Lick Depot.  This depot was built in the early 1900s and was recently renovated.  At mile 14.6, you will reach the Sharp’s tunnel and bridge.  The tunnel is 511 feet long and the bridge immediately after the tunnel is 229 feet long.  If you’re interested in parking your bike for a brief rest, right before the entrance to the tunnel there is a path to the left that leads down to the riverside. There is also a steep, slippery path up to the top of the tunnel for the more adventurous.  At mile 23.9, you will reach the water tank on the outskirts of Marlinton.  Shortly after you pass the water tank , you will reach the Marlinton Depot at mile 24.3.  The depot burned to the ground in 2008 and there are plans to have it rebuilt.  You can then bike a short distance back to where you left your vehicle.

The Sharps Tunnel is dark and deep! Below: Adam stands atop the tunnel entry; By mid-day, big puffy clouds breezed into the sky.

If you are interested in doing any geoaching along the bike trail, you can find a few along the way:

• Clover Lick Depot
• Katy’s Cache on GRT
• Are We Alone? GRT – part of the National Radio Astronomy Observatory SETI@50 geocaching event

We definitely enjoyed our ride on the trail and I hope to come back at some point to try out some other sections of this trail.

Christine Says…

We had a great bike ride along the Greenbrier River Trail (GRT)!  I already can’t wait to go back and bike the remaining 53 miles.  Rails-to-trails riding is so pleasant and leisurely.  I love not having to worry about cars running me off the road.

If you’re going to bike a segment of the GRT, definitely look into arranging a shuttle. Typically, you leave your car at the end point, and the shuttle ferries you and your bikes to your start point. This allows you to bike a long section without having to retrace the trail to get back to your car.  You can also take your time exploring because you don’t have a set time to meet your ride at the end of your trip.  Shuttle companies are also a great source for trail tips – where to camp, where to eat, places to stop for water, etc.  We used Appalachian Sport, but there are several other shuttle companies in the area.

A View of Sharps Bridge. Can you spot Christine on the trestle? Below: A primitive campsite along the trail; Adam drives the old wagon; A few early hints of fall were evident in the trees along the trail.

We met our shuttle at 8:30, loaded up our bikes and headed off on our 45-minute van ride to Cass.  The morning was still cool with thick mist lifting off the river.  Fall is definitely in the air!  We passed through Cass Scenic Railroad State Park on our way to the northern end of the GRT. Cass is near Snowshoe Mountain.  The area offers so many options for outdoor fun – skiing, mountain biking, canoeing, scenic railroads, fishing, hiking, etc.

By 9:30, we were off and pedaling along the trail.  For several miles, we followed along the river – no sign of roads, people or houses.  It was wonderful!  The river was really low, but it was still gorgeous.  Every now and then, a deer would bound across the trail or go splashing across the river.  The fog burned off and opened up to crystalline clear blue skies – not a cloud in site.  Early splashes of fall color were already evident in the trees along the trail.

We passed a couple trailside campsites.  The GRT is also popular with equestrians, so campsites all included hitching posts. If I still had my horse, this would definitely be a dream ride!  Several of the campsites even had privies.

Occasionally, the trail passes by developed areas.  But “development” in this section of West Virginia usually means a few houses clustered along a quiet country road.  We passed a barn with equestrian services advertised on the building side.  They also had an old horse cart that Adam couldn’t resist.  We passed the Clover Lick Depot.  I think this area was probably a lot busier when the train was still running.  The depot building was really cute and had recently been restored.  Sadly, it’s not being used for anything.  I bet it would make a great trailside gift and snack shop, but I also bet it would be nearly impossible for a shop to stay in business along the GRT.  In the entire 25 miles we biked, I think we saw 6 people all day long.  With such low traffic, amenities will never spring up along this trail like they have along the Virginia Creeper.

One of my favorite things we passed along – or shall I say through – was the old Sharps Tunnel.  When we arrived at the tunnel opening, Adam scrambled up the hill to the top of the tunnel opening.  You can smell the inside of the mountain emanating from the tunnel.  It’s a hard smell to describe – the best I can describe is like a cool wind carrying the scent of tar, dampness and earth.  The tunnel is over 500 feet long and follows a curve.  This means that there is a section in the middle where there is absolutely no ambient light.  It is 100% completely pitch black and eerie as the grave.  For a few moments, I lost all sense of up, down, forward and backward.  It was like biking in space!  I shrieked with a mix of fear and giddiness until my bike hit light again.  It was really fun, but if you’re afraid of the dark or an uncertain biker, you might want to have a light on your bike or carry a headlamp in your bag.

There were a bunch of state park employees eating lunch on the other side of the tunnel.  I think they all heard me screaming in the tunnel, because they looked at me oddly.  Oh well…  I hope they were entertained.  As soon as you come out of the tunnel, you pass over the Sharps Bridge, which crosses the Greenbrier River on a tall trestle.

We spotted a couple of frightened baby chipmunks along the trail. Below: Another view of Sharps Bridge; the Greenbrier River; The other baby chipmunk we spotted. I hope they survived.

Shortly after crossing the bridge, I saw a tiny animal dart across the trail – barely missing Adam’s bike wheels.  It was as small as a field mouse.  I braked when I saw the tiny creature still sitting along the trailside.  It turned out to be a tiny baby chipmunk.  It was too young to be away from the nest, and the mother chipmunk was nowhere in site.  We made sure the little guy was safely off the trail and headed on our way.  As Adam was walking back to his bike, he almost stepped on another baby chipmunk.  This one was sitting in the middle of the trail, trembling in fear.  We made sure the other chipmunk was safely off the trail and nestled under some leaves before we biked on.  I hope those little chipmunks somehow found some way to survive. 

Chipmunks and deer were not the only wildlife we saw along the way.  We also saw a couple different kinds of snakes.  One snake was the largest black snake I’ve ever seen!  He was lying half on and half off the trail, clearly in a state of torpor from the chilly weather.  At first, I thought it was a toy rubber snake that someone had tossed along the trail.  It didn’t move at all when I nudged it with a stick.  I pushed it again, and I noticed the body slowly constricting.  The stick I had was an old fallen tree branch – about eight feet long.  I pushed the snake again to get it off the trail, but this time the snake completely coiled up; raising its upper body off the ground and flicking its tongue at me.  He was still really slow and stiff, but definitely awake! Adam, who was sitting on his bike 50 feet away, wanted nothing to do with the snake at all.  Finally, I managed to push the snake completely off the trail into the grass.  Hopefully, he slithered away when the sunshine of the day warmed him up.  Later in the day, we saw another snake basking in the sun in the middle of the trail, but he moved out of the way really quickly.

We saw this sleepy (but angry) black snake on the trail. Below: Near Marlinton, we saw old farm buildings and fields; The old water tank; The burned Marlinton depot; Adam checks out the inside of the train.

The last few miles of the trail passed through more open terrain.  We saw fields and old abandoned farm buildings.  Shortly thereafter, we passed a huge water tank – the only one left standing along the trail.  Trains used to stop at this spot to fill up.  By the time you get to the water tank, the GRT switches from a crushed stone surface to paved.  The paved section is about five miles long.

In a few minutes, we were back in Marlinton at the old train depot.  The depot used to be the town visitor’s center, but as Adam mentioned, it burned down a few years ago.  We took a few minutes to climb aboard the old train car at the depot before heading back to our car.

After loading up, we had a delicious lunch at the Greenbrier Grille.  They had great sandwiches (I recommend the Steak & Mozzarella!) and a lovely deck overlooking the river.  We ate lunch to the sound of honking ducks in the river below.  The restaurant has a large menu of homemade desserts, but we were too full from the sandwiches.

The next day, we were on our way back to Virginia, but we’ll definitely be visiting Pocahontas County again!

Trail Notes

• Distance – 24.3 miles
• Elevation Change – Negligible.  Hardly any elevation change.
• Difficulty – 2. While the biking is not difficult, the distance might be a little much for some people.  Hiking or biking it should be fairly easy.
• Trail Conditions – 4.5 The trail is very well-maintained.
• Views – 3.  The trail is scenic through most of the trail with views of the river most of the time.
• Waterfalls/streams – 2. The path runs along Wilson Creek for part of the trip and the Greenbrier River for most of the trip.
  
• Wildlife – 2.5 We saw deer a few times on the trail and in the river.  We also spotted some baby chipmunks, a blue heron, a couple snakes and some geese.
  
• Ease to Navigate – 4.5. Just stay on the bike trail.  A few spots run parallel with other driveways/roads, but you shouldn’t have trouble if you stay on the trail.
• Solitude – 3.  We were surprised with how few people were on the trail biking.  I think we only saw 6 people biking on the trail the entire day.

Directions to trailhead: The actual trailhead is located off Route 66/Back Mountain Road near Cass, WV.  There are clear signs to direct you to the trail.  If you use the services of Appalachian Sport, that is located on Route 55/219 in Marlinton, WV.  Here is a good map for that area.

View a Google Map of the Route

The trail offered many beautiful meadow views. Below: Adam checks out the sign at the entry to the Cranberry Glades boardwalk; The old Mill Point Federal Prison used to sit along the present-day Cowpasture Trail; The Thomas Reserve Trail is lined with ferns; A view of the Glades boardwalk.

Christine Says…

The morning did not start well.  We drove into Marlinton, WV before our hike to make some reservations for a bike shuttle.  Once we were in town, we learned that Verizon wireless was not available anywhere in the area (and I really needed to check in on a family emergency).  We couldn’t find anyone that sold pre-paid phone cards in all of Marlinton.  When we did find a phone card, we couldn’t find a pay phone that worked. Apparently, the only pay phone that works in all of Pocahontas County is at the hospital.  After filling up at a BP station, the “service engine” light came on in our car and the gas gauge stopped working.  (Can I blame BP for that?)  Finally, to top everything off, we couldn’t find the trailhead for this hike.  In the end, it all turned out OK, as it usually does.  We ended up hiking a couple extra miles, but on a beautiful, cool, blue-sky day… that’s not a bad thing!

Our original plan was to hike the 7.1 mile Cowpasture Loop which encircles the entire Cranberry Glades Botanical Area and crosses into the beautiful, wild Cranberry Wilderness.  But, the trailhead was not marked and the map we had did have enough detail to indicate the exact location.  We ended up parking at the Thomas Reserve trailhead, instead.  We knew this trail would intersect the Cowpasture Loop after about a mile or so.

This rock ledge along the Thomas Reserve Trail is probably a pretty waterfall when the stream isn't dry. Below: The trailhead for the Thomas Reserve trail; Trails were adequately marked.

I’m really glad we went this way, because the Thomas Reserve Trail took us past some beautiful and interesting scenery.  There were ruins that looked like some kind of old pool or water treatment facility.  The concrete basin and pillars were still intact, along with several large pipes with wheels attached.  I did a quick Google search to try and figure out exactly what the ruins are, but I didn’t have much luck.  From that point, the trail passes through beautiful fern-carpeted forest and past a dry stream.  The stream has an interesting rock ledge/cave that I think probably makes a lovely, small waterfall when water is actually running.  Eventually, the path intersects an old road that is part of the Cowpasture Loop.

After a short walk along the old road, the trail opens up into a gorgeous open meadow with views of the mountains in the distance.  This is the site of the old Mill Point Federal Prison.  Even though the buildings were all torn down in the late 1950s and early 1960s, you can still see some leftover signs of the site – there are bits of road left, abandoned stairs to nowhere, an old well.   There is also a series of informational signs that include old photos and talk about life at the prison.  Apparently, it was a prison without walls or gates.  Prisoners were treated to weekly movies and could spend their afternoons hiking in the area.  I guess you could say it was very low security! We stayed at the prison site long enough to read the signs and enjoy the meadow view.

After the meadow, the trail climbed back into the forest, following rolling ups and downs for a couple miles.  We saw lots of bear scat and several deer leaping across the trail.  We crossed a small dry stream shortly before passing out into another wide open area.  The meadows along this trail were really overgrown.  The ragweed and other plants were shoulder-height and constantly batted me in the face as I walked the trail.  Even so, the meadow areas of this hike were spectacular!  This section in particular offered beautiful views of Kennison Mountain.

We got a nice view of a beaver dam on the Cranberry River. Below; The bridge over the Cranberry River.

The trail dips down to the South Fork of the Cranberry River.  This crossing had a pretty arched bridge and a great look at an active beaver dam.  There were crabapple trees everywhere – so I was really wondering if we’d eventually see a bear.  We never did – just the deer and a very angry red squirrel.

From the river, the trail ascends to a ridge and follows a series of gentle ups and downs.  We passed several beaver ponds and got nice looks at the bogs and glades the area is known for.  One pond even has an elevated wooden platform to view the area.  Because of the dry months we’ve had lately, the ground was much dryer than it should be.  The ponds were so low, I wondered if the resident beavers were able to swim at all.  While we were passing one of the ponds, we heard a huge tree come crashing to the ground someplace nearby.  It must have been a monster tree – it sounded like gunshots as it splintered and fell to the ground with a huge KABOOM.

Just before coming out on FS Road 102, the trail passes over another pretty arched bridge.  The walk along 102 is completely level and pretty uneventful.  You’ll pass a gate and the board marking the entry to Cranberry Wilderness.  The area looks fantastic for backpacking – lots of loops and shelter options.  We’re already talking about making a three day trip sometime in the spring.

After crossing the chain gate, the walk is along the developed portion of 102.  Cars passed by and the walking was really boring.  When we got to the Cranberry Glades Boardwalk, we decided to add the .6 mile loop onto our larger loop.  The boardwalks pass through a beautiful open bog area.  If you visit the right time of year, you can even see carnivorous pitcher plants.

After the quick turn along the boardwalk, we walked the last mile along the paved road back to our car. By the time we got back, I was pretty tired and hungry and was looking forward to making homemade pizza for dinner back at our Watoga State Park cabin.  Although the day got off to an inauspicious start, it really turned out to be perfect.

Adam says…

Christine had suggested this hike to me when we were planning our trip to Watoga State Park and I’m so glad that she suggested it.  This hike is one of my favorites that we’ve done this year.  It has some interesting history and the open views of tundra are nothing short of beautiful.

We saw these mysterious ruins along the Thomas Reserve Trail. Below: The Thomas Reserve trail begins; An old well at the prison ruins site.

We had trouble finding the start of the hike, since the trailhead for the start of the Cowpasture Loop was not marked.  We saw a sign for the Thomas Reserve trail and I could tell from our map that it hooked up with the Cowpasture Loop.  The Thomas Reserve Trail starts bisecting a field, but quickly moves into woods.  At about .6 miles, we saw the pillars of the old “pool” that Christine mentioned off to the right of the trail.  The trail continues for another .4 miles through the woods until it comes to a sign.

Take a right here to get on to the Cowpasture Loop.  The trail is quite level at this point as you move through a field with great views of the tundra around you.  Here, and in some places throughout the entire loop, there may be tall plants that you have to push aside, but you shouldn’t need to bushwhack.  As you’re passing through the tundra area, you may notice several bluebird boxes.  The trail begins to turn towards the left and then opens up to more of a clearing.  You will see posts that give information about the Mill Point Federal Prison camp and life for the inmates.  You will then come to a sign around mile 1.5.  Take a left here to stay on the Cowpasture Loop.  This will loop back around the tundra, paralleling Charlies Creek, and then goes back into the woods.    You will start to reach some footbridges around the two mile mark that take you above some marshy areas.

The glades boardwalk is a pleasant .6 mile walk around the bog. Below: The walk along the forest road wasn't that exciting; Once we got back to the paved portion of 102, there were some pretty scenes along the road.

After this point, you will begin to climb slightly up.  At the height of this gradual hill, you will begin to see views of Kennison Mountain.  At mile 3.5, the trail then takes a sharp left (marked by an arrow on a sign) and descends again.  This area was quite overgrown, but the trail was still clearly visible.  The trail tends to alternate at this point from going through areas of marshy glades to trails through the woods with slight ups and downs in elevation.  At mile 5.7, you will see a destroyed sign where there is a side path of about 100 yards to an observation deck.  This would be an excellent spot for birding.  At mile 6.4, the trail connects again to FS 102.  Take a left on the fire road until you reach the gate at mile 6.6.  At mile 7.3, you will reach the parking lot for the Cranberry Glades Boardwalk loop.  This loop is only about .5 miles and I would highly recommend it.  There are interpretive signs along the boardwalk and it does give some more wonderful views throughout the loop.  Once you complete the loop, just walk back up FS 102 to reach your car.

For those interested in reading about the history in advance of the Mill Point Prison, check out some of this information regarding the life and some of the people that served time there due to an investigation into the Hollywood Film Industry.

• these photos showing the prison
• this letter describing the prison
• information about Edward Dmytryk, who was sentenced to Mill Point during McCarthyism.
• excerpt from Being Red by Howard Fast.
• Mug shot of Albert Maltz, mentioned in the two above articles.

There are also a few geocaches along this loop:

• Thomas Reserve Cache
• Moo!
• Cranberry Glades Earthcache

Trail Notes

• Distance –9 mile loop
  
• Elevation Change – 200 feet
• Difficulty – 3. This is really an easy hike, but we’ll give it a 3 due to the longer length.
• Trail Conditions – 2.5. The trail was largely passable, but very overgrown.  Several bridges over streams were broken and rotted through.
• Views –3. You get some nice views of the mountains and great views of the glades/tundra.
  
• Waterfalls/streams – 3. In times with normal to higher precipitation, this trail has great views of streams, ponds and the Cranberry River.
  
• Wildlife – 4.  We saw deer, signs of bears, active beaver dams, red squirrels and many kinds of birds.  
• Ease to Navigate – 3.  Once you find the trailhead, the trail is relatively easy to follow.
• Solitude – 4.  Outside the popular boardwalk area, you probably won’t see a soul!

Directions to trailhead: From Mill Point, WV head west of WV 39/55.  After about 7 miles, you will find a sign for the Cranberry Glades area on your right (FS 102).  Head down this road for one mile until you reach the trailhead for the Thomas Reserve trailhead.

The Buck Hollow – Buck Ridge Trail is a steep hike in the Central District of Shenandoah National Park.  It takes a deep plunge along the Buck Hollow stream and a steep hike back up the Buck Ridge trail.

I've never seen so many different kinds of mushrooms/fungus along a trail in Shenandoah. Below: When we hiked Buck Hollow in August of 2008, we saw two yearling bear cubs; the stream running through Buck Hollow is rather small and overgrown.

Adam Says…

I have to be honest – we have been putting off doing this trail for a while.  We first did this hike a few years ago and the memories of how tough a hike it was kept us from wanting to do it again.  Christine and I both weren’t feeling well the day we attempted it last time, but we were more pleased doing this hike this time.

The trail starts off from the Meadow Springs parking area.  After about 20 feet down the trail, you see a post marking the Buck Hollow trail.  Take a left to go down this trail.  The trail seems to constantly descend and is rather steep in many portions.  There are loose rocks and if you attempt this after a heavy rain, you should expect some mud and slick soil on the trail.  Along the side for much of the trail, you will see the Buck Hollow stream.  Around mile 1.75, you will make a few rock-hops across the stream.  The trail continues to descend and then finally seems to just parallel the stream.  At mile 2.8, you will reach a cement post, pointing you to take a right on to the Buck Ridge Trail.  You cross the stream again and then you will quickly come up to the dreaded stairs.

For any Lord of the Rings fans, these stairs remind me of the stairs of Cirith Ungol.  “Up, up, up, up the stairs we go.”  They are unrelenting and seem to last forever, but they last less than .3 miles.  Of course, you do gain over 400 feet of elevation in this short distance.  These stairs didn’t exist the last time we did the hike; the last time, we just had a steep section of loose soil to traverse.  The stairs help make this hike more manageable, so I do thank the workers that accomplished this laborious task!

At the bottom of Buck Hollow, there is a beautiful camping spot with flat, open forest and easy access to water. Below: The trail starts out at the Meadow Springs Parking Area; A trail through a small slot in the rocks leads hikers to the only open view on the trail.

After the stairs, the trail continues to go uphill, but it is at a much more manageable grade.  Once you are high enough on the ridge, you are treated with views of Skyline Drive and mountain views around you (including Mary’s Rock).  We found a small crevasse bisecting a large rock formation that we were able to easily climb up to get some unobstructed views.  After mile 5.2, you do come up to another concrete post.  Take a right and you will reach the parking lot in a little over .3 miles.

One interesting note that I remember from our first hike of this loop trail was near the bottom of Buck Hollow.  We were hiking along and all of a sudden we startled two yearling bears.  One of them quickly climbed a tree and the other took off up the mountain.  We kept our distance, and the one that climbed the tree climbed back down and took off in the opposite direction.  As I looked to see where the bear went, I spotted a buck and a pileated woodpecker in the same direction.  I felt that I could have taken a picture that would have looked like a wildlife mural that you often see on brochures or placemats.

We were tired after we finished the hike, but this trip we definitely felt that it was more enjoyable than the first time we attempted it.

Christine Says…

When we woke up to cool, pretty weather on Saturday morning, we decided to end our hiking hiatus a week earlier than initially planned.  I had to be at an art show by 1:00, so we needed to find a hike that was relatively short and sort of close to home.  We’ve pretty much hiked and blogged about everything in the central district of Shenandoah National Park already… with the exception of the dreaded Buck Hollow-Buck Ridge hike.

Why dreaded?  As Adam mentioned, last time we did this hike we were both fighting colds and had zero energy.  And while Buck Hollow is not the longest or hardest hike we’ve done, it certainly felt like it the last time we were there.  We ran out of water, we were fatigued, the trail felt endless and daunting as soon as we started the uphill climb.  Other than seeing the two yearling bears, the Buck Hollow hike didn’t carry a single pleasant memory.  It just made me think of exhaustion, suffering and thirst. 

When I mentioned to Adam that we should probably hike it again for the blog, he looked at me with incredulity and told me that he didn’t ever want to hike there again.  Somehow he was convinced to relent, and off we went!

This time, the hike was a lot more fun!  It was still a long, steep downhill -  but I really enjoyed marveling at the huge variety of mushrooms and fungi growing along the trail.  I don’t know if there is a name for people who collect/catalog fungus, but if such people exist – this is the trail for them.  We also happened to notice a beautiful backcountry campsite at the bottom of the hollow, where the trail leveled out.  Along with easy access to water, there was a wide, flat expanse under the shade of the trees.  The forest floor in this area was open with very little undergrowth.  There were also several huge piles of rocks – maybe from old stone walls or foundations in the area.  It was a great place to take a break and have a snack.

Although the stairs don't look steep in this photo, they ascend nearly 400 feet in just over two-tenths of a mile. Below: The Buck Ridge trail is lined with dense mountain laurel; The only (mostly) open view comes from atop a rock along Buck Ridge.

The flat terrain at the bottom of the hollow doesn’t last long.  Shortly after passing the cement post marking the Buck Hollow – Buck Ridge junction, you’ll encounter what I think is the toughest, steepest section of climbing in all of Shenandoah National Park.  Indeed, it’s a short climb – but wow… it’s STEEP.  The terrain along this little section is the equivalent of gaining 2000 feet in elevation over a mile.  I think most hikers will agree — that’s TOUGH climbing.

The Potomac Appalachian Trail Club published a review of this hike in their October 2010 newsletter.  In it they say “Steep, does not begin to describe the trail ahead.”  They also call it scary and compare it to a descent into hell.  We concur!

I was quite glad when the terrain moderated, because the steep stair climb really exhausted my legs!

Butterflies were everywhere along the trail. Below: The PATC trail overseer clearly loves this area.

We also noticed the nice view from atop the rock that we had missed last time we hiked.  It’s funny how being fatigued and thirsty makes you miss the best things along a trail sometimes.  The last section of the trail along Buck Ridge passes through dense mountain laurel and through patches of blueberry and raspberry bushes.  I really thought we’d see more signs of bears (and maybe some actual bears!), but we really only saw one old pile of scat this time.

The Buck Ridge trail eventually meets up with Hazel Mountain Road for the last third of a mile.  This section of trail was quite familiar, since we hiked it just a couple months ago on our backpacking trip to Catlett Mountain.  When we arrived back at the parking lot, we noticed the PATC overseer’s car was in the lot – complete with a “BCKHLW” license plate.  Clearly, the overseer loves this section of the park and does a great job maintaining the trail.

It was a fun hike – one I enjoyed far more than I expected to!

Trail Notes

• Distance – 5.6 miles loop hike
  
• Elevation Change – 1750 feet
• Difficulty – 4. The trail is steep at the start going down and once you reach the halfway point includes a steep uphill.  Not recommended for those with knee or ankle issues.
• Trail Conditions –3. The Buck Hollow Trail is rocky and steep, so you have to watch your footing.  The Buck Ridge Trail had better trail conditions.
  
• Views – 2. The views you get are from the Buck Ridge Trail portion.  While most of these are through the obstruction of trees, there is a nice place to climb on top of a rock for a view.
  
• Waterfalls/streams – 1.5. You do walk along the Buck Hollow stream, but there aren’t a lot of nice views of falling water.
  
• Wildlife –3.5. There are signs of bear scat around.  The first time we went on this trail, we saw two yearling bears and a buck.  Both times we have spotted pileated woodpeckers and many typical woodland birds.
• Ease to Navigate –4. Not too many turns, just read the concrete posts.
  
• Solitude –3.5. We did see a number of people on the trail that seemed to be in a group, but this isn’t overly popular.  Some people will hike up from Rte 211 to Mary’s Rock, so you’re likely to only find people on the Buck Hollow portion of the trail.

Directions to trailhead:
At mile 33.5 on Skyline Drive.  Park at the parking lot on the eastern side of the road and the trail starts from the southern end of the parking lot.

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Note – 10/11/10:In their October issue, Backpacker Magazine inaccurately listed Arethusa Falls as a Virginia destination. The falls are in New Hampshire.

This three mile hike leads to Arethusa Falls, which is (arguably) New Hampshire’s tallest single waterfall. The optional arm along Bemis Brook is challenging in spots, but offers more lovely stream scenery.

Arethusa Falls might not be the most photogenic of New Hampshire's many waterfalls, but it is likely the tallest. Below: The optional side-loop trail along Bemis Brook takes you past Coliseum Falls.

Christine Says…

We originally planned on combining these two trails with Frankenstein Cliffs to make a loop, but unfortunately we ran short on time and just did the three mile out-and-back.

The trail along Bemis Brook was extremely tough walking!  In addition to the roots, rocks and mud, we suffered a full-on mosquito assault.  I spent a lot of the walk along the trail cursing and flailing my arms wildly.  Even with DEET, the little buggers hovered right around my eyes, ears and nostrils, constantly buzzing in too close and getting caught in my eyelashes.

There were several very pretty small waterfalls along the Bemis trail.  Coliseum Falls were especially picturesque.  Since it was such a sunny day, I didn’t bother with a tripod.  Long exposures weren’t a possibility in the harsh sun, so I just took snapshots along the way.  The climb from Bemis Brook back up to the Arethusa Trail was practically vertical.  We had to climb, hand-over-hand, grabbing roots and rocks to drag our way up the mountainside.  There was one blown down tree that was particularly difficult to negotiate.  It was one of those fallen trees that was a little too high to climb over, but a little too low to scramble under.  I decided to clamber over it, and ended up getting my boot toe caught on the tree trunk.  I took a spectacular fall down onto the roots and rocks.  It absolutely left a big black and blue mark!  I was really glad when we finally saw the junction with the Arethusa Trail!

This trailhead for this hike offers beautiful views of Frankenstein Cliffs looming overhead. The trail has an option to lengthen the hike by a few miles to gain access to the top of the cliffs. We ran out of time and had to pass on that option. Below: Trails in the area are clear and well-marked.

The rest of the way to the falls was much easier.  It was uphill and muddy in spots, but the trail was well-graded and nice to walk along.  The last stretch to Arethusa Falls led downhill into a chasm that opened to an amphitheater like setting.  The falls were very impressive!  The water falls like lace over the sheer rock face.

On the hike back, Adam and I waffled about whether or not to continue our hike up to Frankenstein Cliffs.  We even started down the Cliffs Trail, before turning back in less than a tenth of a mile.  We had plans to meet my parents in North Conway, and we just didn’t have time to finish the loop.

Instead, we visited the Appalachian Mountain Club’s Highland Center and got a few Cokes and relaxed in their lobby.  After we met up with my parents, we had an amazing lunch at Moat Mountain Brewery & Smokehouse.  If you’re ever in the area, don’t miss their barbecue and microbrews!

Adam Says…

Arethusa Falls is a gorgeous 160 foot waterfall that is very popular with families.  We started on the blue-blazed trail near the railroad tracks at the parking lot.  After about .1 miles, you come to a junction with the yellow-blazed Bemis Brook Trail.  We decided to do this side trail, since it goes partially along the water, guiding you to a few pools and smaller falls areas.  Once you come up to the Coliseum Falls area, you will need to climb up almost vertically up the trail to join back with the Arethusa Falls trail.  If you do want to do the Bemis Brook trail you should do this at the start of your trip rather than trying to descend it at the end.  This part of the trip was tough and takes a lot of strength out of you in a short distance, so plan appropriately.  Once we reached the junction at the top, we took a left to return to the Arethusa Falls trail.  The trail continues to go uphill until you reach a junction with the Cliffs Trail.  From this point, you continue downhill until you reach the falls in .2 miles.  You return the way you came, but you will avoid the Bemis Brook Trail on the way back and just stay on the Arethusa Falls trail to reach your vehicle.

Arethusa Falls was named after the poem, “Arethusa” by Percy Bysshe Shelley.  The falls were discovered by Edward Tuckerman, but named by Moses Sweetser and Professor Huntington in 1875.

The Bemis Brook Trail follows a beautiful stream for most of the way, until you get to the portion where it climbs, nearly vertically, back up to meet the Arethusa Trail. Below: The Arethusa Trail is much easier to walk - smooth and well-graded, compared to the Bemis Trail.

While I was off hunting for a geocache and Christine was taking some photos, she struck up a conversation with a man hiking solo on the trail.  When I got back to them (after sliding down the hillside 20 feet on my butt), he wanted to take a look at my map.  He was thinking about doing the Frankenstein Cliffs trail and then looping back to make it to his car.  He was to meet up with his wife in less than two hours to take a ride up Mount Washington on the cog railroad.  We told him that it might be hard to make it in time.  He decided to go for it, but I don’t think there was any way he could have made it back in time for his trip up.  We both pictured his wife riding solo up the railroad, muttering to herself, and awaiting the moment she could give her husband a piece of her mind.

There are two geocaches you can get on the trail:

• Hey there is a hill here – note new coordinates listed in the logs
• Arethusa Falls

We wish we had more time to do the Frankenstein Cliffs trail (these are named after an artist, not the doctor who created a monster), because we have heard that it does give you some nice views from the top.  The trail is allegedly muddy and not as well maintained as the Arethusa Falls trail.

Trail Notes

• Distance – 3 miles, out-and-back (2.8 if you leave the Bemis Brook Trail off and just stay on the Arethusa Trail the entire way)
  
• Elevation Change – 650 ft to the falls.  There might be a bit more climbing if you do Bemis Brook.
• Difficulty – 3. The Arethusa Trail is squarely moderate.  The Bemis Brook trail is more difficult with one killer climb uphill at the end.
• Trail Conditions – 2.5 The Arethusa Trail is in nice condition most of the way.  There are some muddy spots and we encountered a flew blow downs.  The Bemis Trail is not easy walking.  There are numerous fallen trees, tricky footing and if it’s the slightest bit damp, the trail is very slippery.
• Views –0. You’ll be in the woods the entire time.
  
• Waterfalls/streams – 4. The falls are large and impressive, but not terribly photogenic.
  
• Wildlife – 0. The heavy human traffic probably scares any wildlife away.
• Ease to Navigate – 5. Trails are marked and easy to follow.
• Solitude – 2. Because the hiking is a little more challenging, you won’t see the same crowds as you do at Flume Gorge or Sabbaday Falls.

Directions to trailhead:
From I-93, follow New Hampshire Route 302 west through Crawford Notch State Park.  A few miles past Sawyer Rock Picnic area you will see the Arethusa Falls parking area on the right.

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