October 2009 – Virginia Trail Guide

Virginia Creeper – Whitetop to Damascus

October 20, 2009August 26, 201522 Comments

The Virginia Creeper Trail is a picturesque rails-to-trails path that winds its way for thirty-four miles through the Mount Rogers recreational area. The trail starts in Whitetop and ends in Abingdon, with Damascus sitting right in the middle. The area caters to bikers, offering plenty of opportunities for shuttles, bike rentals and food along the way.

Adam crosses one of the many old railroad trestles along the Virginia Creeper Trail.

Adam Says…

The Virginia Creeper Trail is something we’ve wanted to do for years. It is very well known in the biking world as being one of the best rails-to-trails in the east.

The origin and history of the name has to do largely with the train that used to ride this route. The train was called the Virginia Creeper due to the slow churning of the train. The trail was also partly named in honor of the native vine that you will normally see turning crimson as an early sign of fall. The train ran its last trip in 1977 and it was converted and opened as a multi-use trail in 1984.

The Virginia Creeper is a beautiful trail that passes through the woods, often alongside a rushing stream.

We were expecting rain that day and wanted to hit the trail as early as we could. We arranged for a shuttle to take us to Whitetop Station to begin our trip. We recommend the Virginia Creeper Trail Bike Shop. They are located in Abingdon and run a shuttle to Whitetop and will even pick you up in Damascus if you are thinking about only doing half of the trail. After we were dropped off, we decided to not lollygag, since the rain was imminent. We got through the first couple of miles of the trip with only a few errant raindrops, before the heavier rain started.

Despite the rain, we really enjoyed the beauty of the trail. There are 47 trestles and bridges that pass over the Green Cove Creek and the Whitetop Laurel Creek. You get gorgeous views of the rushing water in the creeks; pass by quaint, country farms; and canopy forests. We picked a perfect weekend to do this trip to see the beautiful fall foliage. The trail is shared by bikers, walkers, runners, horses, and even an occasional dog sledder in the winter.

Here are a few highlights along the way. There are also several information signs along the way that provide valuable insight into the history and nature of the area. You will see mile markers along the way to help point the way.

Mile 34 – The Whitetop Station to park your car. Bathrooms are available. Highest point on the trail at 3576 ft.
Mile 30.5 – Green Cove Station sells a lot of essentials and souvenirs. Bathrooms are also available.
Mile 27 – Creek Junction – Parking and Bathrooms are available. 563 foot trestle.
Mile 23 – Taylor’s Valley – Parking available. Daniel Boone campsite.
Mile 20.7 – Straight Branch – Parking and Bathrooms are available.
Mile 20 – Whitetop Laurel Falls – when you see a large overhanging rock, the falls are down a small path on the right side of the trail.
Mile 16 – Arrive at the town of Damascus. Railroad exhibit is available.

There are so many beautiful farm and stream scenes along the trail. The huge Christmas Tree farms along the way are lovely. Pictured Below: The trail follows a rushing stream with many small waterfalls; The fall color was spectacular in Mid-October.

For those that are interested in geocaching, there are a ton on this trail.

We definitely plan on coming back in the spring and tackle this another time. The rain got us fairly wet and also covered us with “Creeper Streak” – the streak created on your back from the wet dirt being kicked up from our back tire. We decided to stop after the halfway point and catch the shuttle back to our car. While the rain was annoying and kept us from relaxing and enjoying the trail as much as we wanted, we still felt the scenery around us made up for it.

Christine Says…

I woke up early the morning of our Virginia Creeper bike ride, peeked out the hotel window and started silently chanting the mantra “please don’t rain, please don’t rain, please don’t rain”. The sky was that heavy gunmetal gray that promises rain is coming sooner rather than later. It wasn’t supposed to start raining until the evening, but I was fairly certain that we were going to be in for a soggy bike ride.

Nevertheless, I donned my new padded bike pants and a fleece top and headed over to the bike shop to catch our shuttle ride out to Whitetop Station. The shuttle services for the Creeper Trail are a great idea, as they let bikers enjoy the whole trail without making a return trip over repeat scenery to get back to your car. I think most people just bike half the trail – Whitetop to Damascus, but we were really hoping to do the full 34 miles back to Abingdon.

The van ride out to the trail’s end was pretty long – about an hour along winding mountain roads. The driver shared lots of trail trivia and helpful tips to kill the time. Some of the things he shared:

Celebrities like to bike the Virginia Creeper (Clint Black, Troy Aikman, Emmitt Smith, some NASCAR driver I don’t remember). Apparently, Brad Pitt even has a home near Whitetop and has been spotted fishing the area’s rivers. (although I can’t find any evidence to corroborate this as fact)
Most of the accidents (75%) along the trail happen to males between the ages of 13 and 21. Boys on bikes are reckless, I suppose.
It’s a very bad idea to slam on your brakes when crossing wet railroad trestles. You WILL wipe out. I can vouch that this tip is quite true. We saw the same poor woman wipe out on two separate occasions – both times she was on a wet trestle.
The trail is probably the only 34 mile bike ride that you’ll actually gain weight on. There are snack shops, coffee house, bakeries, ice cream parlors and full service restaurants all up and down the trail.

The trestle supports are very picturesque/ — The trestles along the trail are very picturesque. Pictured Below: We were lucky enough to bike the trail during the peak of fall color; The trail is a multiuse trail and is also used by pedestrians and equestrians.

On the ride out, the sky started spitting a bit of rain. It had stopped again by the time we were dropped off at Whitetop Station. We kept our fingers that it would continue to hold off. Adam and I don’t like biking or hiking in crowds, so as soon as we got our bikes off the trailer, we raced off to get a jump start on the crowd of bikers arriving at the trailhead. Our driver told us that on nice weekend days, the trail might see upwards of 2400 riders. Area bike shops have 1800 bikes available, and frequently sell out of rentals. I was a bit surprised that more people rent bikes than bring their own. Maybe most people don’t own bikes these days.

The trail was gorgeous – a leaf-covered pathway under an endless tunnel of fall-colored trees. Every now and then, we’d pass an opening that provided a view of the mountains or one of the area’s many vast Christmas tree farms. Around Green Cove Station the rain started in earnest, and never let up again. I had to put my camera in a trashbag I had packed in my bike rack. There were so many scenes along the way that deserved to be photographed with care. Sadly, with the rain, all I was able to do was take a few quick snapshots.

Even in the rain, the ride was incredibly beautiful. I loved crossing the old railroad trestles and riding alongside the rushing streams. We biked the entire stretch from Whitetop to Damascus in about ninety minutes. I would have loved to take more time to enjoy the scenery, but it was cold, wet and windy. I started thinking less about scenery, and more about a mug of hot chocolate and a steaming cup of soup.

In short order, we arrived in Damascus. We decided to try lunch at one of the places our shuttle driver had pointed out. He had mentioned that In the Country and Fattie’s Diner were both really good. I saw “Hot Soup” on In the Country’s sign, and I was sold.

The trail offers many charming places to stop for a delicious lunch or snack. Pictured Below: We had a fantastic lunch at “In the Country”; The only red train car along the trail is located in Damascus.

The staff at the restaurant was so friendly and welcoming. They didn’t even flinch when we walked in through their front door, soaking wet – covered with mud and trail grit. My ponytail felt like I’d dipped it in wet concrete and my legs were coated with black sludge from my ankles to my knees. Adam even had mud splashed up and down his cheeks. They invited us to eat inside in the warmth, but I felt too guilty about my filthiness and chose a picnic table under their covered porch.

Adam and I both got their boxed lunches which included a sandwich, side, drink and dessert. I chose their potato soup as my side. It totally hit the spot. Lunch was washed down with hot chocolate and followed up with delicious homemade pumpkin squares. We sat on the porch after lunch, watching others from our shuttle group pass by on their way to the pick-up point. I think most bikers take about two and a half hours to bike the Whitetop to Damascus section.

The rain was still falling steadily, and although we wanted badly to see the rest of the trail, we decided to call the bike shop and let them know we’d be joining the shuttle in Damascus. We met up with everyone at the red train car in the middle of Damascus. Everybody looked cold, dirty and tired. The heated shuttle van was such a welcome sight.

It was a real disappointment to miss the second half of the trail, but it’s also a great motivator for us to make a return trip to the area in the spring. I’ve heard the rhododendron and mountain laurel bloom along the Creeper is amazing!

Trail Notes

Distance – 18 miles for this segment
Elevation Change – From Whitetop to Damascus, you lose 1646 feet in elevation
Difficulty – 1.5. You hardly have to pedal at all on this stretch of trail, so it is suitable for bikers of all fitness and skill levels
Trail Conditions – 3.5. The trail is in good shape. There are some errant holes and jutting rocks to watch out for. Entrances and exits from the trestles can be jarring if you’re going moderately fast.
Views – 3. While the views aren’t high and lofty, they are still beautiful and showcase Virginia’s most picturesque scenery.
Waterfalls/streams -4. The two streams that flow along the trail are gorgeous and include many small waterfalls.
Wildlife – 1. We didn’t see anything, but our shuttle driver told us people regularly spot deer and the occasional bear.
Ease to Navigate – 5. The trail is very simple to follow.
Solitude – 0. People love the Creeper! On nice days in the spring, summer and fall, the trail can see over 2000 bikers in a single day.

Directions to trailhead:

We recommend hiring a shuttle service in either Abingdon or Damascus. For a reasonable fee, they will drive you and your bikes to White Top Station. This lets you enjoy the entire trail without having to backtrack on the return trip to your car.

Mount Rogers

October 17, 2009August 25, 201555 Comments

The summit of Mount Rogers, Virginia’s highest peak, can be reached via a nine mile (total, out-and-back) hike starting from Grayson Highlands State Park. The hike follows the Appalachian Trail for most of the way and crosses into Jefferson National Forest.

Mt. Rogers is beautiful, rugged and home to several herds of wild ponies. — Mount Rogers has beautiful and rugged terrain. The area is home to several herds of wild ponies.

Christine Says…

Mount Rogers has long been on my list of must-do hikes. The peak’s status as the state’s highest point was one draw, but personally, I wanted a chance to see the feral highland ponies that roam the area.

Our trip started under rather inauspicious conditions. We missed a turn on our way to the park, and ended up an hour out of the way. The weather had been forecast to be sunny, but the morning dawned with a thick, wet, windy cloud of bleakness blanketing the entire area. But when you have driven almost four hours to do a long-anticipated hike, you’re going to do it regardless of minor complications like gloominess and getting lost.

The trail starts out from Massie Gap in Grayson Highlands State Park.

We parked at Massie Gap in Grayson Highlands State Park. From there, we walked across a wide pasture, passed a sign warning of extremely erratic weather in the area and went through a horse gate. The trail climbed upward along a wide, gravel path.

We almost immediately saw our first small group of wild ponies, clustered under the trees on a hillside next to the trail. The fog was so thick; they looked like silhouettes in the mist. I quickly got my camera out and started snapping shots. The ponies were so small and rugged looking. Their coats were thick and their manes long and wavy. Some were solid colored and some were spotted. They also turned out to be incredibly inquisitive and gentle. While I was squatting down to take photos, a dark brown pony walked up to me and nuzzled her soft nose onto the back of my hand. I know she was looking for food, but I had nothing to offer. We lingered with the ponies for a while, and then moved on.

(note: The park rules prohibit feeding the ponies.)

The ponies are very friendly. They come right up to you, especially if they think you have food. Although it may look like Adam is feeding the pony, he’s actually just unzipping his backpack. Pictured Below: More ponies; State park rules!

We soon reached the junction with the Appalachian Trail, followed the white blazes and headed south. The fog was such a transformative element on the morning of our hike. Instead of the amazing mountain views we’d heard about, the thick mist made the scenery feel closer and more intimate. I told Adam several times that I didn’t feel like I was in Virginia at all. I felt like I was walking through some storybook version of the Scottish Highlands. It was so quiet and mysterious-feeling – no people, no tall trees rustling in the wind, no birds chirping. The terrain was open, studded with rocks and covered with scrubby low-lying brush.

The Wilburn Rock scramble was slippery, but fun.

The Appalachian Trail exits Grayson Highlands State Park at around the 1.5 mile mark. The trail becomes increasingly rugged and rocky at this point. There are a couple route options for the middle section of the trail. Hikers can continue along the AT, or choose to branch off on the Wilburn Ridge Trail for a short rock scramble (and nice views on a clear day). We chose to scramble. In retrospect, we probably should have stuck to the AT. The boulders on Wilburn Ridge were quite slippery. After we finished scrambling, we passed through a thick tunnel of rhododendron that spilled us back out into another open pasture area.

When we rejoined the AT, we started to see signs of the sun burning through the cloud layer. We soon reached a horse camp next to an enormous rock outcropping . When we climbed to the top of the rocks, we both gasped in awe at the view. The valley below us had been mostly cleared of clouds and fog, and a blanket of fall color spread out before us, as far as the eye could see. Only a few wisps of mist were left hanging on the ridges below. We sat on the rocks and took a break from walking. A couple backpackers passed below, and we overheard them talking about hearing coyotes howling in the night before. Instead of coyotes, we heard the distant squeal of ponies whinnying ahead on the trail.

We got our first view with clearning clouds atop a huge rocky outcropping. — We got our first clear view from atop a huge rocky outcropping. Pictured Below: fog and clouds lift off the colorful mountainside; the ferns along the trail were turning gold; one of the pony stallions we saw along the way.

After a short break atop the rocks, we continued along, passing through another thicket of rhododendron. The area was completely shaded and nearly ankle deep in mud. My trekking poles came in very handy traversing the sloppy footing. This section of the trail runs almost parallel to the Mount Rogers horse trail. There are many beautiful backcountry campgrounds nestled into the trees along this stretch. We saw about a dozen more wild ponies near the campsites, including a couple stallions.

This gorgeous gray was hanging out near the campsites. Pictured Below: More ponies – they are everywhere along the trail through Rhododendron Gap.

By this point in the hike, all the fog and clouds had blown off the mountain, giving us a great look at the gentle rolling terrain and spectacular open views. You can’t help but feel like you’re on top of the world walking along this ridge. The fall color was amazing! We stopped for lunch at the Thomas Knob Appalachian Trail hut. We shared the picnic table with several groups of day hikers and backpackers. We read the logbook, stretched a bit and then made our final push for the summit.

The spur to the summit departs the AT and heads into a dense, rainforest-like grove of spruce-fir trees. It was damp and green and draped with moss. It reminded Adam and I of the forests in the Pacific Northwest. The summit of Mt. Rogers is rather anticlimactic after passing by so many sweeping panoramic views and rocky pinnacles. The marker lays set in stone, tucked into a shady spot in the woods. There is no view to speak of, just a quiet little spot under the trees.

We only stayed at the summit for a few minutes, as there were quite a few people there. We hiked the return trip to Massie Gap fairly quickly, stopping briefly along the way to admire ponies and take in views that had been obscured by fog earlier in the day. The hike almost felt like a loop because the weather changed so dramatically between the hike up and the hike down. My final treat along the hike came less than a mile from the end, when a young foal came bounding out of the brush, nickering loudly for his mother. The foal was absolutely adorable. I wanted to pack him up and take him home with me! (Incidentally, the wild ponies are periodically rounded up and sold to keep the herd at a sustainable size. Although, I don’t think our property owners association would appreciate me bringing a miniature horse home, so I’ll just have to keep the pony ownership idea in the realm of fantasy for now.)

We had beautiful autumn views hiking back down Mt. Rogers — We had beautiful autumn views hiking back down Mount Rogers. Pictured Below: A foal is curious; View from the trail on our return.

We got back to our car, tired and happy. The entire hike took around six hours – even with lots of breaks and dawdling along the way. For its nine mile length, it’s a surprisingly easy hike.

I really can’t fully put into words how much I loved this hike. I went to sleep that night dreaming of wild ponies and gorgeous fall views. I know I’ll revisit Mt. Rogers often in my mind until I have a chance to hike it again.

Adam Says…

We had such a great hike up Mount Rogers! A co-worker that had previously hiked the mountain had described the scenery as God’s country and I couldn’t agree more. While walking across the highlands, you can’t help but feel reflective about the beauty before you. The land around you is vast and I guarantee you will be humbled by the nature.

The trail along the top of Mt. Rogers is surprisingly level.

Mount Rogers was originally named Balsam Mountain, but the name was changed to honor Virginia’s first state geologist and first president of MIT, William B. Rogers. With the peak being the highest in Virginia at 5,729 feet, this is quite an honor.

One thing that does make this a special hike is the ponies. Another co-worker of mine didn’t believe that there were wild ponies here (even with photographic evidence). The ponies were originally placed here by the park service in 1974, but are currently maintained by the Wilburn Ridge Pony Association. The ponies help protect the area from wildfires by eating grasses and underbrush. The Wilburn Ridge Pony Association takes care of their veterinary needs and provides supplements of salt and hay in winter months. There are close to 150 ponies, that are separated into three herds – some are in Grayson Highlands State Park, more are in the Scales area of Pine Mountain, and the most are near Rhododendron Gap on the Mount Rogers trail. The proceeds from the sale of the ponies at the end of September supports the vet and winter feed costs.

Adam points out the only sign of humans he can see for miles from Mt. Rogers. Picture Below: a pair of palominos; beautiful clouds and blue skies over the rocky vista.

The geology of Mount Rogers provides an interesting tale of how things were formed over the years. Geologists will be able to see evidence of gneiss, sandstone, rhyolite, and shale on their hike along the trail.

For people that like a little more direction for the route that we took, here are some points of interest along the way:

Cross the field at the Massie Gap parking lot and go through the gate to start the trail.
You will now be on the Rhododendron Trail for .8 mile until it intersects the Virginia Highlands Connector Trail. Take a left on this trail for just .2 miles.
When you reach the junction with the Appalachian trail, head south. You will shortly leave Grayson Highlands State Park and enter Mount Rogers National Recreation Area through a gate – continue straight on the AT at this point. After another .25 mile, you will have the option to stay straight on the Appalachian Trail or turn left and proceed on the Wilburn Ridge Trail. The distance is about 1 mile either way. The Wilburn Ridge Trail does join back to the AT. It is a tougher rock scramble, but I would recommend doing it on the way up rather than the way down.
Once you are back on the AT, proceed for another mile until you reach a junction of trails. This area is known as Rhododendron Gap and comes to an elevation of 5526 feet. At this junction, there is a large pinnacle rock. Climbing up the rock will give you gorgeous panoramic views that are a must-see of the hike. This area joins the AT with the Pine Mountain Trail and Crest Trail. Once you enjoy the view, make sure you follow the white blazes to stay on the AT.
You will then proceed on the AT for about 1.5 miles, walking through the bald area known as the Crest Zone, until you reach the Thomas Knob Shelter, protected by gates on both sides. This is a great place to grab a snack. There are also great views behind the cabin. This cabin sleeps plenty, since there is a ladder that goes to a second floor, allowing a little light through two small windows on the side.
Once you leave the shelter through the gate, you will be entering Lewis Fork Wilderness. Shortly after this point, to reach the summit you will need to leave the AT and proceed to the summit by taking the Mount Rogers Spur Trail for .5 mile straight ahead. The summit is marked by a simple USGS benchmark in the stone. There are two within 100 feet of each other, so make sure you find the correct one for any of you peakbaggers.

The Summit of Mt. Rogers resembles a rainforest. Pictured Below: the Thomas Knob Appalachian Trail Shelter; Adam on the summit.

Overall, the trail was really quite manageable for a 9-mile hike. The terrain is very nice in some points walking across flat lands, but there are some rocky parts, especially around the Wilburn Ridge Trail. My back and feet were in pain from having too much weight on my pack, but my muscles didn’t feel sore at all the next day.

There are just a few geocaches that you can find along the way. A couple of them are earthcaches, which do not have you finding a physical cache, but it teaches you about the geology of the area.

Christine told me that this hike has been her favorite ever. While there are a lot of contenders for me, this would definitely be a strong candidate for me as well. I feel that anyone interested in hiking in Virginia should make this a trail you must do. It is a day you will remember forever.

Trail Notes

Distance – 9 miles the way we went making a partial loop in the middle with the Wilburn Ridge Trail.
Elevation Change –About 1100 feet
Difficulty – 4. The actual trail wasn’t too tough, but due to the length we upped the difficulty. The Wilburn Ridge Trail does include a few rock scrambles, but is also manageable for most people that are the slightest bit nimble.
Trail Conditions – 3.5 The trail is well-maintained and traveled. There are muddy spots, especially through the Mount Rogers Spur Trail. The hike on the AT and Wilburn Ridge before the Rhododendron Gap area is quite rocky, causing you to watch your feet.
Views –5. Great views walking along the trail in all directions. The views from Rhododendron Gap are especially beautiful.
Waterfalls/streams –0. Non-existent.
Wildlife – 5. It doesn’t get much better than wild ponies. Bears and coyotes have been spotted also. Lots of bird-watching available also.
Ease to Navigate – 3. It is easy to get a little confused at Rhododendron Gap, but overall things are very well-maintained. Make sure you grab a map to have a backup plan.
Solitude – 2. You will get good spacing due to the length, but you will see other people due to the backpackers, AT hikers, and day visitors. It is the highest summit, which is going to draw crowds, especially at the shelter and summit.

Directions to trailhead:
From Abingdon, take 58 East until you reachGrayson Highlands State Park on the left through SR 362. Continue for three miles to reach the Massie Gap parking area. The start of the trail at the gate is across the field to the north.

Molly’s Knob

October 12, 2009August 26, 20153 Comments

Molly’s Knob is the best known hike in Hungry Mother State Park. On a clear day, views of Mount Rogers can be seen from the summit.

Adam takes a look at Molly's Knob from the viewing platform lower on the trail. — Adam takes a look at Molly’s Knob from the viewing platform lower on the trail.

Adam Says

On our way down to Abingdon for a weekend of hiking and biking in the Highlands, we decided to stop by Hungry Mother State Park. There is an interesting legend surrounding the origin of the park’s name. Native Americans destroyed many settlements south of this park on the New River. Molly Marley and her child survived the raid and were taken captive. Eventually they escaped the raiders. They wandered through the wilderness until Molly finally collapsed. Her child wandered away, hungry and alone. Eventually the child was found by residents of a small settlement near where the park stands today. All the child would say was “Hungry Mother”. A search party went out to find Molly, but they were too late. There are some variations to this legend, but it is an interesting tale.

The colors of the fall leaves were really quite gorgeous in the park, so we decided walk around a bit. Of course, the hiking enthusiasts that we are, we decided to try the hike up Molly’s Knob.

We parked in a small lot on the northeast side of Hungry Mother Lake. We left the car and began walking the Lake Trail Loop, giving us glimpses of the beauty of the lake. After .5 miles, this joined the blue-blazed Ridge Trail. We continued on this up a steady uphill grade for .2 miles until we reached the viewing platform pictured below. With the beautiful colors on the mountain of Molly’s Knob in view, we decided to take the remaining trip to the summit. We continued up the white-blazed Molly’s Knob Trail for .9 miles. The trail was marked as a black diamond trail, but we didn’t find this portion to be too difficult. After the .9 miles, we began the fuchsia-blazed Vista Trail. This was the steepest portion of the hike, but once we got to the top, we were quite impressed by the view. While I scurried around looking for a geocache, Christine enjoyed taking a few pictures of the views. We shortened the trip back by just following the Molly’s Knob Trail to our car. We were worried about the hike taking too much out of us for our trip to Mount Rogers the next day, but it was worth the risk to see these views.

There are several geocaches to find in Hungry Mother State Park, but here are the few that I located on the trail:

The forest was filled with foliage of every color. Pictured Below: The golden foliage along this trail was especially spectacular. Adam even found several geocaches along the way.

Christine Says…

Going on this hike was completely unintentional. We wanted to drive through Hungry Mother State Park just to see what the park had to offer. But the foliage along the lake was so pretty, that we felt compelled to get out of the car and walk a bit. I thought a short stroll along the level Lake Trail would be pleasant and scenic.

After a short bit of walking, we reached the junction of the Ridge Trail, and decided to turn there to make a short 1 mile loop back to the car. At the top of the ridge, we saw the platform overlooking Molly’s Knob off in the distance. Next to the platform, a sign indicated that the summit was only 1.3 miles further. The short distance made the summit far too tempting, and we were on our way. I kind of regretted not changing clothes before we hiked. The impromptu nature of this hike had me wearing jeans, a dressy shirt and my hair was down. About halfway up the steep climb, I would have traded just about anything for a ponytail holder. As luck would have it, someone left a pack of hair elastics in one of the geocache boxes Adam found. I was much more comfortable with my hair up, but hiking in jeans is never fun.

The view from the top was obscured by fog and clouds, but it was still beautiful with all the fall color. Pictured Below: You get some nice views of the lake along the trail.

There were some steep sections of trail, but the fall colors were so beautiful I hardly noticed the climb. We had almost the entire trail to ourselves, too. We saw just two other solo hikers near the beginning of the hike, but after that we didn’t encounter a single soul. The wind was rustling through the treetops, sending colored leaves falling down all around us. Plumes of fog curled around the folds of the mountains. Off in the distance, we could hear a pileated woodpecker cackling. In no time, we reached the summit and its beautiful view of the valley. There were two benches built into the summit, so it was a perfect place to rest before hiking back down.

The trail down was so steep in some places, that momentum had us practically running downhill. The final stretch back gave us a very pretty view of the lake and the beach below. This hike turned out to be a great surprise!

Trail Notes

Distance – 3.8 miles the way we went making a partial loop. You can shed .4 miles off, by cutting out the Lake Trail Loop trail and Ridge Trail
Elevation Change –1000 feet
Difficulty – 3. The steepest parts were the Ridge Trail portion and the Vista Trail, but we found it to be a moderate hike.
Trail Conditions – 4 The trail is well-maintained and traveled. We found the Vista Trail to be a little slippery during the rain due to some clay surface.
Views –3.5. Great views from the summit and Hungry Mother Lake. On a clear day, you should be able to see Mount Rogers.
Waterfalls/streams –2. You do get some nice views of the lake. Since it used to be a stream before it was dammed, we thought it was worth mentioning.
Wildlife – 1. We saw a pileated woodpecker, but nothing else. There is some good birding in the area.
Ease to Navigate – 4. There are a few switches in trails during the path we chose, but everything was well-marked.
Solitude – 4. We only saw two people on the trail on a Saturday afternoon, so I’m guessing it is not very well-traveled. During heavy camping weekends, I would expect more traffic.

Directions to trailhead:
On I-81, take exit 47 and then take 11 South. After a little over a mile, take a right on to 16. Follow this into Hungry Mother State Park (fee required of $2-$3). Take a right immediately after the P6 lot and continue on the road until you reach a cul-de-sac parking lot. The sign for the Lake Trail Loop is at the end of the cul-de-sac.

Seneca Rocks (WV)

October 10, 2009September 4, 201822 Comments

The formation of Seneca Rocks is an exciting landmark for all to see. The trail is a pleasant three-mile hike along gentle uphill grades and switchbacks. The summit has a viewing platform suitable for all hikers and the opportunity for more adventurous folks to scramble out onto the exposed rock face for a more dramatic view.

The trail starts off over an arched bridge.

Adam Says…

When people first see the sheer rock face of Seneca, most probably assume they’re in for a really tough hike. However, I was surprised to find that this hike is not as difficult at all. This was my second time hiking up Seneca Rocks.

Seneca Rocks is probably most known among rock-climbers. You may see several dots scaling the face from the parking lot. There are multiple paths up the sections of rocks, but it is not for amateurs. Seneca Rocks is made of Tuscarora quartzite.

The trail starts off from the parking lot opposite of the Sites Homestead. You will see a sign marking the beginning of the trail, mentioning that it is 1.5 miles to the top along with 1000 feet of elevation gain. You will quickly come to a bridge across the North Fork River. The trail continues on the opposite side. There are interpretive signs along the trail that will give you a lot of information about the trees and geology of the area. You will slowly rise through the forests to meet a row of stairs which starts a steeper, uphill climb. You will have several switchbacks along the trail, but they help take the pain away you would feel for a steeper hike. Once you reach the top, there is an observation platform that allows for some gorgeous views to the west.

The view from the Seneca Rocks viewing platform. Below: Adam at the warning sign; More views

For those that are more adventurous, you will find a sign slightly above the observation point pictured above. You can continue past this point, but it is not for the faint of heart or the feeble-footed. This path will take you to actually hike the skinny area of the top of Seneca Rocks. At some points of this climb at the very top, you will be standing on rock about the width of your body with several hundred feet of drop-off on both sides of you. The views do allow you to see to the east and west from the top, but most people should stay at the observation point. Fearful of heights, the first time I did not venture much further past the warning sign. This time, I felt a little more confident and did explore things a little further. Several people have died on this portion, so do not attempt anything that is uncomfortable.

If you are interested in geocaching, there are several to find around the Seneca Rocks area. There are more than these listed, but these are the easiest to do while on this hike. Here are the ones I found in the area:

I would highly recommend anyone interested in taking a trip to West Virginia to take some time to visit Seneca Rocks. These formations are really an amazing site and the hike up is paid off by gorgeous views that will make you truly appreciate the breath-taking scenery of West Virginia.

Christine Says…

Seneca Rocks was the last stop of our whirlwind day in West Virginia. We’ve hiked this trail a few times, and wanted to take the time to share it on our website.

The hike is understandably the most heavily trafficked trail in all of Monongahela National Forest. Seneca Rocks has so much to see beyond its namesake attraction. The visitors center, located at the base of the rocks, is beautifully designed and is full of interesting exhibits, a theater and a small gift shop. The original visitors center burned to the ground in 1992, but the new one is even nicer than the original. The area also offers fishing, picnicking, nearby camping and even a restored homestead from the 1830’s. The Sites Homestead has lovely gardens and a spectacular view of the rock “spine” on the mountain above.

The Sites Homestead. Below: Horseback Riders; A peek between the rocks.

Since Adam has already described the hike itself so thoroughly, I wanted to share one of my memories from a childhood visit to Seneca Rocks. My family spent a lot of time camping and hiking in the area when I was a kid. On one trip to Seneca Rocks, I kept telling my parents that the “rock was shaped different”. My mom said that I probably didn’t remember what the rock looked like exactly. But, I insisted that a big part of the rock face had fallen right off the mountain. My parents just laughed at me. But, it turned out I was RIGHT. Two days before that visit, a large freestanding tower of rock (called the Gendarme) in the center notch of the rocks had toppled over and crumbled down the mountainside. You can see the Gendarme in this old historical engraving.

The hike to the top of Seneca is really pretty easy. You used to be able to take a guided horseback ride to the top, but Yokum’s Stables stopped operating in September of 2015.

Trail Notes

Distance – 3 miles out and back
Elevation Change –1000 feet
Difficulty – 2. The entire outbound hike is uphill along gradual grades and switchbacks.
Trail Conditions – 3.5 The trail is well-maintained.
Views –4. The view the platform is pretty to the west, but for a better view, climb beyond the platform onto the rocks for stunning east and west views.
Waterfalls/streams –3. The beginning of the hike takes you over an arched bridge and across a beautiful, wide section of the North Fork River. Several smaller streams converge near the trailhead.
Wildlife – 1. We saw lots of chipmunks and a gigantic black snake.
Ease to Navigate – 5. There is only one trail. It would be nearly impossible to get lost.
Solitude – 0. This is the most popular trail in all of Monongahela National Forest. Everybody hikes this trail, so expect lots of company along the way.

Directions to trailhead:
Seneca Rocks sits right at the junction of Rt. 33 and Rt. 55 in West Virginia. You can’t miss it. The hike starts out across the parking lot from the historic Sites Homestead.

Short and Scenic West Virginia Walks

October 6, 2009October 12, 201512 Comments

Last Saturday, we made a quick trip over the mountains into West Virginia. The foliage in the Canaan Valley (Tucker County) area is always way ahead of the color change in Virginia. We set out from home at 5:00 a.m. and made stops at Blackwater Falls State Park, Canaan Valley State Park, Douglas Falls and Dolly Sods Wilderness. Our whirlwind trip got us thinking about how many short walks in that area have major scenic payoffs.

Let’s start off with a few beautiful spots in Blackwater Falls State Park. All of the spots listed below are clearly marked on the park’s trail map. Pick up a copy at the lodge.

Lindy Point

The walk out to Lindy Point is no more than a third of a mile along a relatively level path. The trail passes through dense rhododendron and can be quite muddy if there has been rain. At the end of the trail, you’ll come out to a platform built onto the side of the rocky cliff. The point offers a spectacular view of the Blackwater Canyon. If you sit quietly, chances are good that you’ll hear the river rushing through the chasm below. The view is made even more unique due to the enormous free-standing rock “chimneys” that surround the platform. There are several places that you can crawl through the rhododendron to stand directly on the rocks for a better view. Despite the spot’s beauty, Christine has not had great luck photographing this spot, but it’s all been a matter of timing. We’ve just never been lucky enough to hit the point on a day with nice “photo skies.” The photo included really doesn’t do the place justice.

Elakala Falls

There are several "falls of Elakala" along Shays Run. — There are several “falls of Elakala” along Shays Run.

This pretty waterfall is accessed by a short trail starting out from the park’s main lodge. The falls are less than a quarter mile down the trail. You’ll know you have reached the waterfall when you come to a wooden footbridge over Shays Run. The falls cascade directly under your feet at this point. The trail really doesn’t give you a good look at the waterfall, so take the time to follow the “unofficial” foot path down the ravine to the base of the falls. Elakala is prettiest in times of heavy waterflow. The stream leaving the base of the falls takes a beautiful swirling path across the moss-greened rocks. Don’t miss climbing a little farther down the ravine to see a couple other pretty waterfalls on Shays Run. The stream actually cascades all the way down to the bottom of the Blackwater Canyon, but it’s not really safe to go much beyond the second or third cascade. Last winter we were lucky enough to see Elakala falls completely frozen over. The sound of the water running under the ice was magical that day.

Blackwater Falls

This 62 foot cascade is park’s namesake and #1 attraction. You’ll have a couple options for accessing the waterfall. The park road that heads toward the main lodge has a paved, wheelchair-accessible path to a viewing platform far above the waterfall. The road that heads toward the picnic ground has a longer “staircase-path” that leads to several wooden viewing platforms. This path puts you a lot closer to the waterfall and offers a much prettier view. We’ve always liked visiting Blackwater Falls as soon as the sun comes up. At dawn, the path is deserted and the falls are often shrouded in a thin veil of fog. During more normal times, the area is extremely crowded with tourists.

And now a couple favorites outside the park.

Douglas Falls – Thomas, WV

The colors of Douglas Falls are amazing!

Blackwater Falls might be the area’s best-known waterfall, but we think Douglas Falls is the most beautiful. The rocks are brilliant red and the water is vivid green, making for a wonderfully photogenic color contrast. The color of the rocks is sadly unnatural, created by acid drainage from the mines and coke ovens in the area. It’s amazing that pollution could create something so pretty. The ride out to the falls is extremely rugged and potholed. You should plan on walking a mile or two if you don’t have a 4WD vehicle. The footpath down to the falls is very short, but very steep. Once you get down to the base of the falls, there is a path that follows the stream for a couple hundred yards. The whole area is worth exploring, but take extreme caution on the slippery rocks. The rocks around the stream are coated with slick, clear algae. We always move “crab-style” along the rocks to keep from falling.

Bear Rocks – Dolly Sods Wilderness

The landscape of Dolly Sods reminds us of Maine.

Another place to visit in the area is Bear Rocks in the Dolly Sods Wilderness Area. The overlook is surrounded by a vast plain of huckleberry and blueberry bushes that turn blaze red in the autumn. It’s a great place to spot migrating hawks. The rocky cliff is endlessly fun to scramble around on and provides beautiful views of the valley below. The plains framing the cliff are patterned with pathways through the berry bushes and punctuated with monolithic white rocks that have been sculpted by time and the elements. Whenever we visit Dolly Sods, we feel like we’re someplace far north of the Mid-Atlantic region. It feels more like Maine or Canada. There are several routes into Dolly Sods. We recommend the route from WV32 onto Laneville Road as the most passable and scenic. You might even see a black bear along the road if you’re lucky.

Millers Head

October 1, 2009October 16, 20091 Comment

Millers Head is a beautiful little hike that starts out from the amphitheater at Skyland Resort. There are three nice overlook spots along the way.

The view from a small rock outcropping before the observatory was prettier than the actual Millers Head

Christine Says…

Millers Head is a perfect leg-stretcher with wonderful scenic payoffs. It’s also a bit of an oddity for Shenandoah hiking. One unusual thing about this hike is that the trail is mostly downhill as you walk out to the observatory. In Shenandoah, it’s very uncommon to have a steady descent on hikes that offer panoramic vistas. In fact, I can’t think of a single other “view hike” that goes downhill quite as much as Millers Head. Another interesting fact about this trail; it’s one of only three places in the park that are authorized launch points for hang gliders. If you’re lucky, you might get to see some gliders taking off and sailing over the valley.

The first of the viewpoints comes atop Brushytop Mountain, just .2 miles into the hike. There is a lovely shady spot with large boulders to sit and take in the view. Near Brushytop, you’ll also get a nice look at Skyland Resort built into the mountainside to the east. In the afternoon, the sun hits the lodge beautifully and Stony Man looms impressively over the resort area.

Brushytop offers a nice view of the valley. Below: the signpost at the trailhead, view of Skyland Resort looking back from the trail

I wasn’t so lucky with the lighting conditions for photography on the day we hiked. The clouds were dark and moving quickly across the sky. Whenever the sun came out, it was fleeting. I missed the afternoon light on Skyland by mere moments.

In my opinion, there are two viewpoints even nicer than Brushytop on this hike. One is an unnamed rock ledge close to the Millers Head observatory. It’s not marked, but you can’t miss the well worn footpath up to the rocks. It looks back to the east. The other is right at the end of the trail and includes a stone observatory deck built by the CCC. The observatory is starting to crumble and the handrail is loose and rusty. Nonetheless, the views are wonderful from this spot. If you’re into photography, I’d recommend (unlike us) doing this hike in the morning. I had to shoot right into the sun on this particular day, and didn’t really get any nice photos at Millers Head.

On the hike back, I was really cold! I can’t remember ever being cold on a September hike before. We’re having such odd weather this fall, but odd in a good way. I love the crisp snap in the air after the heat of summer. Without a doubt, this is my favorite time of year to hike.

Adam Says

This was a great hike that we combined with the Traces Trail in the North District to get a couple of short hikes in one afternoon. For the shortness of the hike, you really do get some nice views.

The fall leaves provided a gorgeous blanket of color on the trail. Fall hiking is some of the prettiest hiking when you have a nice clear day for views. However, leaves can also cover trails easily, so you have to be aware of where you are. I don’t think anyone could get lost on this particular trail, but it is something to keep in mind while hiking.

The trail was covered with fall leaves. Below: A couple views from the Millers Head Observatory. The clouds were changing so quickly.

Once you start the hike, you will go up a short distance until you reach a building that I think was either a radio tower or weather station. Shortly after that at .2 miles, you will come to a cement post. Heading straight ahead for a few feet will lead you to the Brushytop overlook. From here, you will get nice views of farmlands and small communities in the Shenandoah Valley. Backtrack to the post and head down. You will pass by a few boulder falls along the side. There are a few views off to both sides of the trail along the way before you reach the observation outpost at .8 miles. We had some overhanging clouds from the storm front that was slowly moving through, but we still were able to get gorgeous 180 degree views to the east. We were also fortunate enough to see a peregrine falcon swoop by, reminding us of our Hawksbill Summit Loop hike.

This is another good hike for families or with pets. While the trip back from the observation outpost was more uphill, it was easier to do than we thought it would be. I would recommend this hike to anyone looking for a short hike with a decent payoff for views.

Trail Notes

Distance – 1.6 miles out and back
Elevation Change –475 feet
Difficulty – 1.5. There are some rolling ups and downs on this trail, but overall it’s an easy walk.
Trail Conditions – 3. The trail is well-maintained, but rocky. When we hiked the trail, it was covered by a lot of wet, slippery leaves.
Views –3.5 The view from Millers Head is beautiful. You also get a pretty view of the valley and Skyland Resort from atop Bushytop Mountain, located .2 miles into the hike.
Waterfalls/streams –0. Non-existent.
Wildlife – 0 We didn’t see anything.
Ease to Navigate – 4. Just stay straight on the trail.
Solitude – 2. This trail’s short length and proximity to Skyland Resort make it quite popular.

Directions to trailhead:
Follow Skyline Drive to the Skyland Resort area, between mile markers 42 and 43. Pass the Skyland stables and continue up the road until you reach the amphitheater. You’ll see a sign for the Millers Head Observatory next to the theater.