The summit of Mount Rogers, Virginia’s highest peak, can be reached via a nine mile (total, out-and-back) hike starting from Grayson Highlands State Park. The hike follows the Appalachian Trail for most of the way and crosses into Jefferson National Forest.
Christine Says…
Mount Rogers has long been on my list of must-do hikes. The peak’s status as the state’s highest point was one draw, but personally, I wanted a chance to see the feral highland ponies that roam the area.
Our trip started under rather inauspicious conditions. We missed a turn on our way to the park, and ended up an hour out of the way. The weather had been forecast to be sunny, but the morning dawned with a thick, wet, windy cloud of bleakness blanketing the entire area. But when you have driven almost four hours to do a long-anticipated hike, you’re going to do it regardless of minor complications like gloominess and getting lost.
We parked at Massie Gap in Grayson Highlands State Park. From there, we walked across a wide pasture, passed a sign warning of extremely erratic weather in the area and went through a horse gate. The trail climbed upward along a wide, gravel path.
We almost immediately saw our first small group of wild ponies, clustered under the trees on a hillside next to the trail. The fog was so thick; they looked like silhouettes in the mist. I quickly got my camera out and started snapping shots. The ponies were so small and rugged looking. Their coats were thick and their manes long and wavy. Some were solid colored and some were spotted. They also turned out to be incredibly inquisitive and gentle. While I was squatting down to take photos, a dark brown pony walked up to me and nuzzled her soft nose onto the back of my hand. I know she was looking for food, but I had nothing to offer. We lingered with the ponies for a while, and then moved on.
(note: The park rules prohibit feeding the ponies.)
We soon reached the junction with the Appalachian Trail, followed the white blazes and headed south. The fog was such a transformative element on the morning of our hike. Instead of the amazing mountain views we’d heard about, the thick mist made the scenery feel closer and more intimate. I told Adam several times that I didn’t feel like I was in Virginia at all. I felt like I was walking through some storybook version of the Scottish Highlands. It was so quiet and mysterious-feeling – no people, no tall trees rustling in the wind, no birds chirping. The terrain was open, studded with rocks and covered with scrubby low-lying brush.
The Appalachian Trail exits Grayson Highlands State Park at around the 1.5 mile mark. The trail becomes increasingly rugged and rocky at this point. There are a couple route options for the middle section of the trail. Hikers can continue along the AT, or choose to branch off on the Wilburn Ridge Trail for a short rock scramble (and nice views on a clear day). We chose to scramble. In retrospect, we probably should have stuck to the AT. The boulders on Wilburn Ridge were quite slippery. After we finished scrambling, we passed through a thick tunnel of rhododendron that spilled us back out into another open pasture area.
When we rejoined the AT, we started to see signs of the sun burning through the cloud layer. We soon reached a horse camp next to an enormous rock outcropping . When we climbed to the top of the rocks, we both gasped in awe at the view. The valley below us had been mostly cleared of clouds and fog, and a blanket of fall color spread out before us, as far as the eye could see. Only a few wisps of mist were left hanging on the ridges below. We sat on the rocks and took a break from walking. A couple backpackers passed below, and we overheard them talking about hearing coyotes howling in the night before. Instead of coyotes, we heard the distant squeal of ponies whinnying ahead on the trail.
After a short break atop the rocks, we continued along, passing through another thicket of rhododendron. The area was completely shaded and nearly ankle deep in mud. My trekking poles came in very handy traversing the sloppy footing. This section of the trail runs almost parallel to the Mount Rogers horse trail. There are many beautiful backcountry campgrounds nestled into the trees along this stretch. We saw about a dozen more wild ponies near the campsites, including a couple stallions.
By this point in the hike, all the fog and clouds had blown off the mountain, giving us a great look at the gentle rolling terrain and spectacular open views. You can’t help but feel like you’re on top of the world walking along this ridge. The fall color was amazing! We stopped for lunch at the Thomas Knob Appalachian Trail hut. We shared the picnic table with several groups of day hikers and backpackers. We read the logbook, stretched a bit and then made our final push for the summit.
The spur to the summit departs the AT and heads into a dense, rainforest-like grove of spruce-fir trees. It was damp and green and draped with moss. It reminded Adam and I of the forests in the Pacific Northwest. The summit of Mt. Rogers is rather anticlimactic after passing by so many sweeping panoramic views and rocky pinnacles. The marker lays set in stone, tucked into a shady spot in the woods. There is no view to speak of, just a quiet little spot under the trees.
We only stayed at the summit for a few minutes, as there were quite a few people there. We hiked the return trip to Massie Gap fairly quickly, stopping briefly along the way to admire ponies and take in views that had been obscured by fog earlier in the day. The hike almost felt like a loop because the weather changed so dramatically between the hike up and the hike down. My final treat along the hike came less than a mile from the end, when a young foal came bounding out of the brush, nickering loudly for his mother. The foal was absolutely adorable. I wanted to pack him up and take him home with me! (Incidentally, the wild ponies are periodically rounded up and sold to keep the herd at a sustainable size. Although, I don’t think our property owners association would appreciate me bringing a miniature horse home, so I’ll just have to keep the pony ownership idea in the realm of fantasy for now.)
We got back to our car, tired and happy. The entire hike took around six hours – even with lots of breaks and dawdling along the way. For its nine mile length, it’s a surprisingly easy hike.
I really can’t fully put into words how much I loved this hike. I went to sleep that night dreaming of wild ponies and gorgeous fall views. I know I’ll revisit Mt. Rogers often in my mind until I have a chance to hike it again.
Adam Says…
We had such a great hike up Mount Rogers! A co-worker that had previously hiked the mountain had described the scenery as God’s country and I couldn’t agree more. While walking across the highlands, you can’t help but feel reflective about the beauty before you. The land around you is vast and I guarantee you will be humbled by the nature.
Mount Rogers was originally named Balsam Mountain, but the name was changed to honor Virginia’s first state geologist and first president of MIT, William B. Rogers. With the peak being the highest in Virginia at 5,729 feet, this is quite an honor.
One thing that does make this a special hike is the ponies. Another co-worker of mine didn’t believe that there were wild ponies here (even with photographic evidence). The ponies were originally placed here by the park service in 1974, but are currently maintained by the Wilburn Ridge Pony Association. The ponies help protect the area from wildfires by eating grasses and underbrush. The Wilburn Ridge Pony Association takes care of their veterinary needs and provides supplements of salt and hay in winter months. There are close to 150 ponies, that are separated into three herds – some are in Grayson Highlands State Park, more are in the Scales area of Pine Mountain, and the most are near Rhododendron Gap on the Mount Rogers trail. The proceeds from the sale of the ponies at the end of September supports the vet and winter feed costs.
The geology of Mount Rogers provides an interesting tale of how things were formed over the years. Geologists will be able to see evidence of gneiss, sandstone, rhyolite, and shale on their hike along the trail.
For people that like a little more direction for the route that we took, here are some points of interest along the way:
- Cross the field at the Massie Gap parking lot and go through the gate to start the trail.
- You will now be on the Rhododendron Trail for .8 mile until it intersects the Virginia Highlands Connector Trail. Take a left on this trail for just .2 miles.
- When you reach the junction with the Appalachian trail, head south. You will shortly leave Grayson Highlands State Park and enter Mount Rogers National Recreation Area through a gate – continue straight on the AT at this point. After another .25 mile, you will have the option to stay straight on the Appalachian Trail or turn left and proceed on the Wilburn Ridge Trail. The distance is about 1 mile either way. The Wilburn Ridge Trail does join back to the AT. It is a tougher rock scramble, but I would recommend doing it on the way up rather than the way down.
- Once you are back on the AT, proceed for another mile until you reach a junction of trails. This area is known as Rhododendron Gap and comes to an elevation of 5526 feet. At this junction, there is a large pinnacle rock. Climbing up the rock will give you gorgeous panoramic views that are a must-see of the hike. This area joins the AT with the Pine Mountain Trail and Crest Trail. Once you enjoy the view, make sure you follow the white blazes to stay on the AT.
- You will then proceed on the AT for about 1.5 miles, walking through the bald area known as the Crest Zone, until you reach the Thomas Knob Shelter, protected by gates on both sides. This is a great place to grab a snack. There are also great views behind the cabin. This cabin sleeps plenty, since there is a ladder that goes to a second floor, allowing a little light through two small windows on the side.
- Once you leave the shelter through the gate, you will be entering Lewis Fork Wilderness. Shortly after this point, to reach the summit you will need to leave the AT and proceed to the summit by taking the Mount Rogers Spur Trail for .5 mile straight ahead. The summit is marked by a simple USGS benchmark in the stone. There are two within 100 feet of each other, so make sure you find the correct one for any of you peakbaggers.
Overall, the trail was really quite manageable for a 9-mile hike. The terrain is very nice in some points walking across flat lands, but there are some rocky parts, especially around the Wilburn Ridge Trail. My back and feet were in pain from having too much weight on my pack, but my muscles didn’t feel sore at all the next day.
There are just a few geocaches that you can find along the way. A couple of them are earthcaches, which do not have you finding a physical cache, but it teaches you about the geology of the area.
Christine told me that this hike has been her favorite ever. While there are a lot of contenders for me, this would definitely be a strong candidate for me as well. I feel that anyone interested in hiking in Virginia should make this a trail you must do. It is a day you will remember forever.
Trail Notes
- Distance – 9 miles the way we went making a partial loop in the middle with the Wilburn Ridge Trail.
- Elevation Change –About 1100 feet
- Difficulty – 4. The actual trail wasn’t too tough, but due to the length we upped the difficulty. The Wilburn Ridge Trail does include a few rock scrambles, but is also manageable for most people that are the slightest bit nimble.
- Trail Conditions – 3.5 The trail is well-maintained and traveled. There are muddy spots, especially through the Mount Rogers Spur Trail. The hike on the AT and Wilburn Ridge before the Rhododendron Gap area is quite rocky, causing you to watch your feet.
- Views –5. Great views walking along the trail in all directions. The views from Rhododendron Gap are especially beautiful.
- Waterfalls/streams –0. Non-existent.
- Wildlife – 5. It doesn’t get much better than wild ponies. Bears and coyotes have been spotted also. Lots of bird-watching available also.
- Ease to Navigate – 3. It is easy to get a little confused at Rhododendron Gap, but overall things are very well-maintained. Make sure you grab a map to have a backup plan.
- Solitude – 2. You will get good spacing due to the length, but you will see other people due to the backpackers, AT hikers, and day visitors. It is the highest summit, which is going to draw crowds, especially at the shelter and summit.
Directions to trailhead:
From Abingdon, take 58 East until you reachGrayson Highlands State Park on the left through SR 362. Continue for three miles to reach the Massie Gap parking area. The start of the trail at the gate is across the field to the north.
Virginia Trail Guide 
My wife and I are planning our first AT multi-day hike next July and this sounds like a good start. We plan 2 or 3 nights on the trail. I’m 64 and in pretty good physical shape and will get some hikes in before the trip. Can you suggest some trails to add some miles to this trip? I’ve ordered some maps but any suggestions would be appreciated. There are so many trails to figure out!
Thanks, Katelyn
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Depending on how many days you want to do & where you live, i suggest Hot Springs NC to Erwin TN (5 days) Arguably the most beautiful section of the AT
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We’re definitely looking forward to that section!
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My first trip up here to Mt. Rogers I was 10 yrs. old & in the Boy Scouts of America. This was, still is, quite the feat for someone that age to accomplish. I’d have to say if it weren’t for the BSA I seriously doubt that I woulda got the opportunity to hike Mt. Rogers. We were fortunate in the sence that our Scout Leaders were just as interested in the outdoors & seeing us learn about all the outdoor life as they were some of the less exciting aspects of the Scouts. Don’t get me wrong, we followed the basics but we definitely got to enjoy the outdoors & Mt. Rogers is a beautiful place to enjoy no matter what age you are… If you get the opportunity to get up there, GO ! You’ll never regret it…
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My bf and I did this hike in January 2016 and it was a pretty mild day temperature wise but as soon as we hit the higher elevations you could start to feel the chill. It was the most magical hike because when we got to the top of Mt. Rogers it was snowing and the entire rainforest was covered in this thick white blanket of snow and the sun was still shining. It was a truly beautiful hike and we are looking to go back again next weekend. I am also looking forward to doing this hike in the fall to get the same views that you all had in your amazing photos. Definitely recommend this hike!
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Sounds AMAZINGLY beautiful!
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Thanks for sharing this! I am planning to do this hike this weekend (Sunday), and will be by myself. The possibility of bears makes me a little nervous! Any comment on that one way or the other?
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I think it’s pretty unlikely you’ll have bear issues. Just hang your food and keep your camp clean.
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We plan on going 2nd week in Sept for an overnight in a tent near the shelter and wonder if there is any water source or do we to carry it up?
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There is a water source near Thomas Knob shelter. You shouldn’t have to haul water from the start.
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We’ve hiked Mt Rogers several times, and always love seeing the ponies and long-horned cattle. I would dearly love to get a copy of your photo which is seen just above the words “We got our first clear view from atop a huge rocky outcropping.” Any chance? Thanks.
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Certainly some beautiful territory.
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First off, thank you so much for this post! It’s super helpful and the pictures are amazing.
I’m sorry if I you’ve already explained, but when exactly did you guys go on this hike?
We are planning to go the last weekend in October and I see that you posted this on October 17th, but I know the posted date and traveled date don’t always coincide. I would love to plan our trip around the same time as yours.
I have to plan our trip this month because I plan to fly my sister in and I know a number of things can happen from now until then, but I am unsure if I should do the last weekend in October or mid September.
Thanks,
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Hi Brenna! Those photos were all taken on October 11, 2009!
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Can you tell me when to go if I want to see the rhodos? I know that when you get up that high, they bloom later than in the valley. I’m thinking around the middle of July, but I wondered if anyone knew for sure. Thanks!
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I’m thinking it’s more like mid-June.
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Thanks!
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If you want to see a really amazing display of rhodies and azaleas, hike Gregory Bald in the Smokies! We went last June and it was the most spectacular display I’ve seen!
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Heather I agree with the suggestion that mid June is likely a good time. You could always call the Mt. Rogers Ranger station and they might give you an idea of what things are looking like. The number is 276-783-5196. You could also try the people at Grayson Highlands State park. Number there is 276-579-7092. The folks at the Mt. Rogers office have always been happy to answer questions when I’ve called or stopped in. Happy Trails.
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I’ve done this hike 2x. Once in 2010 from Grindstone (hike was fogged in, 65F @ night in Sept w/ 20mph winds), and just got in from the Grayson Highlands access. Hike just under 9mi shouldn’t take more than 5hrs ea way. Weather was 55F w/ constant icy 30mph winds and temp dropping fast. Spent night up near Thomas Knob shelter in tent. Temp ended up being 28-30F and those winds were constant.
I’ve seen many hikers up there to include day hikers who should just be out for the day, however stuff happens, and the people I saw were clearly unprepared for anything other than “a good day”…as a point, on our descent today I ended up treating a fellow hiker who likely fractured the base of her thumb, SAM splinted and compress wrapped and rigged sling for support- SO THINGS HAPPEN- BE PREPARED.
The weather and terrain are a s close to the Whites as you can get w/ out being in the Whites. Even for “day hikers” you should be prepared for an emergency bivvy. A full set of breathable rain gear, and All Weather Blanket or 2, and some form of insulation as a fleece or techwich and maybe a small piece of foam pad. If you use a space blanket, tarp, or bivvy bag in an emergency you will get wet from condensation inside, hence the need for breathable rain gear in that situation.
Have fun and hike safe all
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Great advice!
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Ouch! I am planning a backpacking trip teh weekend of October 14th, hoping to catch the fall colors. However, I am very nervous about what weather we will find up there that time of year! It seems very unpredictable from day to day!
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Just be prepared for rain and/or cold and you will have a great time! Mt. Rogers is spectacular in all kinds of weather – just check the forecast before you go to make sure it’s not forecast to have anything extreme.
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Yes. I have done this hike 2X and be prepared. one night got below freezing but day turned off nice, and definitely take good rain gear. Both times we ran into heavy rains. Coming down Mt Rogers, we passed an ultra-runner who was flying down the Mt. not me a good way to crack your skull
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I see that its a 9 mile hike, about how long did it take you guys to hike whole 9 mile loop? I am thinking of running/ hiking it with my girlfriend. Thanks for any responses, excited to see the mountain!
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It’s not tough climbing. There are a couple rocky sections, but overall, the terrain is basic. We spent all day on the mountain, but not because the hike was tough – there was just so much to see that we stopped for hours. You could probably do it in few hours if don’t stop much. Are you planning on going soon? Ice/snow might be an issue right now.
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Is this a kid friendly hike, my kids are 6, 9, and 10 and enjoy hiking an
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Hi Dan – I don’t think it’s a particularly difficult hike and we’ve seen plenty of kids on the mountain. But, in the end, you know your kids best! If they’re accustomed to hiking and have done hikes with this length/elevation gain, they should probably be able to do Mt. Rogers. There really aren’t any unusual obstacles on this hike. Making a call as to whether or not a hike is ‘kid friendly’ is always so hard for us, because we don’t have kids and have never really hiked with children. Sorry I can’t give a better answer!
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I agree with the first reply that the answer is “kid dependent,” but would like to add that nothing says you have to do the entire hike. There are plenty of gorgeous views, lovely scenery, and occasionally horses within the first 2-3 miles or so of the hike, thus if the kids get tired, you can always cut it short but feel as if you’ve had a great hike.
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I can’t wait till the end of June to go on this hike with the Tidewater ATC group!
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You’ll love the hike, Joe!
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Thanks for the info. We are going there next week. Is it a 4.5 mile hike one way? I sum really looking forward to our trip.
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Yes, Linda – a 4.5 mile hike from the parking lot described in this hike will take you to the summit of Mt. Rogers. Thanks for the visit and enjoy your hike! It’s one of our very favorites!
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Keep in mind that while the views are definitely a 5, the view at the actual summit is as the photo shows–a rainforest look. It’s beautiful in in its own right, certainly, but the best views are on the way there and the way back. Enjoy!
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We did the hike to Mt Rogers and camped two nights. We took our five year old daughter. She did a great job. It rained each night but cleared up during the day. We did not see ponies till we left and saw two herds. Our daughter got to pet two of the ponies. I hope to take the trip again in the future. Can check thus off my bucket list. This was the first backpacking trip for me and my daughter. My husband has been many times with the scouts. If we can do the trip anyone can.
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Sounds like a wonderful family trip! I’m so glad you got to see the ponies!
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We hiked Mt Rogers over the 4th of July weekend. This is one of Virginia’s best day hikes. It is impossible to not love the ponies. There are also longhorn cattle along the trail now – they are intimidating, but fortunately seem uninterested in passing hikers. We enjoyed the more challenging Wilburn Ridge Trail going up and the AT on the way back down.
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Awesome! I love the shot of the longhorns that you shared.
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Thank you for the informative guide. My two sons ,ages 15 and 8 , and I hiked this route in sept of 2012. Packed a lunch and some snacks and made a for a great day. The whole trip is just one big scenic view. Encountered numerous ponies on the way up and back. The joy of seeing that marker on top for my 8 year old was worth every step. Plan on going back later this spring and make a two day trip.
Are there any similar hikes in the area that you know of ?. We live in Abingdon area and aren’t far away. Love the open scenery. We have done lots of day hikes but mostly in the davidson river area of the pisgah in NC.
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My girlfriend and I hiked here and backpacked this weekend. It was truly a beautiful area and it has to be my favorite hike thus far. Thanks for the write-up and the directions. We had no trouble navigating to and from.
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Thanks for the visit, Chad! We love that area and are planning a three-day trip near there later on this fall!
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What a wonderful hike, and wonderful pictures! No wonder you have always wanted to do this hike!
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Thanks, Ed! It was a great hike — even better than I expected!
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Using your comments, I navigated the Mt Rogers summit just this past weekend–mid-60s, sunny, clear-in-a-million views! I just had to reply that your directions heading out of the gate at Grayson Highlands Park into the Mt Rogers National Park area is a bit misleading. The way the directions are written, it appears one would take a left onto the AT after passing through the gate. . .which I did. lol Let’s just say that trail is best used by horses and goes the long way around Mt Rogers toward a junction near Elk Garden. Upon my return leg, I found the true AT and followed it down until I hit the summit trail to Mt Rogers itself, and from there your directions made a lot more sense. Great pics and wonderful description, overall, but any other readers should be aware that the AT portion you mention essentially is straight ahead out of the pass-through gate between Grayson Highlands and Mt Rogers parks. Thanks!
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Sorry you got misdirected, Patrick! The left onto the AT is before the gate… not after – but you definitely go left. You have that short little section of AT in Grayson Highlands State Park before going through the gate. From the gate – the AT is straight from there. As you now know! 🙂 I tweaked the directions a little to hopefully make them a little more clear.
It sounds like you had a GORGEOUS day to climb up to the summit!
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Thanks, Christine! I realize part of the problem was the haste in which I wrote down your notes, but it’s much clearer now. And, yes, it was a most glorious day–near perfect weather. The ponies were out, the rocks on the Wilburn Ridge Trail were dry (good thing since I took that route on the way down), and the hike reminded me of some I used to do in Alaska when I lived there. . .only warmer. lol In the long run, I didn’t mind the extra miles as it gave me a better lay of the land and gave me more opportunity to explore. Anyway, I appreciate your comments and pics immensely. Thanks, again!
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