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Virginia Creeper – Whitetop to Damascus

October 20, 2009August 26, 201522 Comments

The Virginia Creeper Trail is a picturesque rails-to-trails path that winds its way for thirty-four miles through the Mount Rogers recreational area. The trail starts in Whitetop and ends in Abingdon, with Damascus sitting right in the middle. The area caters to bikers, offering plenty of opportunities for shuttles, bike rentals and food along the way.

Adam crosses one of the many old railroad trestles along the Virginia Creeper Trail.

Adam Says…

The Virginia Creeper Trail is something we’ve wanted to do for years. It is very well known in the biking world as being one of the best rails-to-trails in the east.

The origin and history of the name has to do largely with the train that used to ride this route. The train was called the Virginia Creeper due to the slow churning of the train. The trail was also partly named in honor of the native vine that you will normally see turning crimson as an early sign of fall. The train ran its last trip in 1977 and it was converted and opened as a multi-use trail in 1984.

The Virginia Creeper is a beautiful trail that passes through the woods, often alongside a rushing stream.

We were expecting rain that day and wanted to hit the trail as early as we could. We arranged for a shuttle to take us to Whitetop Station to begin our trip. We recommend the Virginia Creeper Trail Bike Shop. They are located in Abingdon and run a shuttle to Whitetop and will even pick you up in Damascus if you are thinking about only doing half of the trail. After we were dropped off, we decided to not lollygag, since the rain was imminent. We got through the first couple of miles of the trip with only a few errant raindrops, before the heavier rain started.

Despite the rain, we really enjoyed the beauty of the trail. There are 47 trestles and bridges that pass over the Green Cove Creek and the Whitetop Laurel Creek. You get gorgeous views of the rushing water in the creeks; pass by quaint, country farms; and canopy forests. We picked a perfect weekend to do this trip to see the beautiful fall foliage. The trail is shared by bikers, walkers, runners, horses, and even an occasional dog sledder in the winter.

Here are a few highlights along the way. There are also several information signs along the way that provide valuable insight into the history and nature of the area. You will see mile markers along the way to help point the way.

Mile 34 – The Whitetop Station to park your car. Bathrooms are available. Highest point on the trail at 3576 ft.
Mile 30.5 – Green Cove Station sells a lot of essentials and souvenirs. Bathrooms are also available.
Mile 27 – Creek Junction – Parking and Bathrooms are available. 563 foot trestle.
Mile 23 – Taylor’s Valley – Parking available. Daniel Boone campsite.
Mile 20.7 – Straight Branch – Parking and Bathrooms are available.
Mile 20 – Whitetop Laurel Falls – when you see a large overhanging rock, the falls are down a small path on the right side of the trail.
Mile 16 – Arrive at the town of Damascus. Railroad exhibit is available.

There are so many beautiful farm and stream scenes along the trail. The huge Christmas Tree farms along the way are lovely. Pictured Below: The trail follows a rushing stream with many small waterfalls; The fall color was spectacular in Mid-October.

For those that are interested in geocaching, there are a ton on this trail.

We definitely plan on coming back in the spring and tackle this another time. The rain got us fairly wet and also covered us with “Creeper Streak” – the streak created on your back from the wet dirt being kicked up from our back tire. We decided to stop after the halfway point and catch the shuttle back to our car. While the rain was annoying and kept us from relaxing and enjoying the trail as much as we wanted, we still felt the scenery around us made up for it.

Christine Says…

I woke up early the morning of our Virginia Creeper bike ride, peeked out the hotel window and started silently chanting the mantra “please don’t rain, please don’t rain, please don’t rain”. The sky was that heavy gunmetal gray that promises rain is coming sooner rather than later. It wasn’t supposed to start raining until the evening, but I was fairly certain that we were going to be in for a soggy bike ride.

Nevertheless, I donned my new padded bike pants and a fleece top and headed over to the bike shop to catch our shuttle ride out to Whitetop Station. The shuttle services for the Creeper Trail are a great idea, as they let bikers enjoy the whole trail without making a return trip over repeat scenery to get back to your car. I think most people just bike half the trail – Whitetop to Damascus, but we were really hoping to do the full 34 miles back to Abingdon.

The van ride out to the trail’s end was pretty long – about an hour along winding mountain roads. The driver shared lots of trail trivia and helpful tips to kill the time. Some of the things he shared:

Celebrities like to bike the Virginia Creeper (Clint Black, Troy Aikman, Emmitt Smith, some NASCAR driver I don’t remember). Apparently, Brad Pitt even has a home near Whitetop and has been spotted fishing the area’s rivers. (although I can’t find any evidence to corroborate this as fact)
Most of the accidents (75%) along the trail happen to males between the ages of 13 and 21. Boys on bikes are reckless, I suppose.
It’s a very bad idea to slam on your brakes when crossing wet railroad trestles. You WILL wipe out. I can vouch that this tip is quite true. We saw the same poor woman wipe out on two separate occasions – both times she was on a wet trestle.
The trail is probably the only 34 mile bike ride that you’ll actually gain weight on. There are snack shops, coffee house, bakeries, ice cream parlors and full service restaurants all up and down the trail.

The trestle supports are very picturesque/ — The trestles along the trail are very picturesque. Pictured Below: We were lucky enough to bike the trail during the peak of fall color; The trail is a multiuse trail and is also used by pedestrians and equestrians.

On the ride out, the sky started spitting a bit of rain. It had stopped again by the time we were dropped off at Whitetop Station. We kept our fingers that it would continue to hold off. Adam and I don’t like biking or hiking in crowds, so as soon as we got our bikes off the trailer, we raced off to get a jump start on the crowd of bikers arriving at the trailhead. Our driver told us that on nice weekend days, the trail might see upwards of 2400 riders. Area bike shops have 1800 bikes available, and frequently sell out of rentals. I was a bit surprised that more people rent bikes than bring their own. Maybe most people don’t own bikes these days.

The trail was gorgeous – a leaf-covered pathway under an endless tunnel of fall-colored trees. Every now and then, we’d pass an opening that provided a view of the mountains or one of the area’s many vast Christmas tree farms. Around Green Cove Station the rain started in earnest, and never let up again. I had to put my camera in a trashbag I had packed in my bike rack. There were so many scenes along the way that deserved to be photographed with care. Sadly, with the rain, all I was able to do was take a few quick snapshots.

Even in the rain, the ride was incredibly beautiful. I loved crossing the old railroad trestles and riding alongside the rushing streams. We biked the entire stretch from Whitetop to Damascus in about ninety minutes. I would have loved to take more time to enjoy the scenery, but it was cold, wet and windy. I started thinking less about scenery, and more about a mug of hot chocolate and a steaming cup of soup.

In short order, we arrived in Damascus. We decided to try lunch at one of the places our shuttle driver had pointed out. He had mentioned that In the Country and Fattie’s Diner were both really good. I saw “Hot Soup” on In the Country’s sign, and I was sold.

The trail offers many charming places to stop for a delicious lunch or snack. Pictured Below: We had a fantastic lunch at “In the Country”; The only red train car along the trail is located in Damascus.

The staff at the restaurant was so friendly and welcoming. They didn’t even flinch when we walked in through their front door, soaking wet – covered with mud and trail grit. My ponytail felt like I’d dipped it in wet concrete and my legs were coated with black sludge from my ankles to my knees. Adam even had mud splashed up and down his cheeks. They invited us to eat inside in the warmth, but I felt too guilty about my filthiness and chose a picnic table under their covered porch.

Adam and I both got their boxed lunches which included a sandwich, side, drink and dessert. I chose their potato soup as my side. It totally hit the spot. Lunch was washed down with hot chocolate and followed up with delicious homemade pumpkin squares. We sat on the porch after lunch, watching others from our shuttle group pass by on their way to the pick-up point. I think most bikers take about two and a half hours to bike the Whitetop to Damascus section.

The rain was still falling steadily, and although we wanted badly to see the rest of the trail, we decided to call the bike shop and let them know we’d be joining the shuttle in Damascus. We met up with everyone at the red train car in the middle of Damascus. Everybody looked cold, dirty and tired. The heated shuttle van was such a welcome sight.

It was a real disappointment to miss the second half of the trail, but it’s also a great motivator for us to make a return trip to the area in the spring. I’ve heard the rhododendron and mountain laurel bloom along the Creeper is amazing!

Trail Notes

Distance – 18 miles for this segment
Elevation Change – From Whitetop to Damascus, you lose 1646 feet in elevation
Difficulty – 1.5. You hardly have to pedal at all on this stretch of trail, so it is suitable for bikers of all fitness and skill levels
Trail Conditions – 3.5. The trail is in good shape. There are some errant holes and jutting rocks to watch out for. Entrances and exits from the trestles can be jarring if you’re going moderately fast.
Views – 3. While the views aren’t high and lofty, they are still beautiful and showcase Virginia’s most picturesque scenery.
Waterfalls/streams -4. The two streams that flow along the trail are gorgeous and include many small waterfalls.
Wildlife – 1. We didn’t see anything, but our shuttle driver told us people regularly spot deer and the occasional bear.
Ease to Navigate – 5. The trail is very simple to follow.
Solitude – 0. People love the Creeper! On nice days in the spring, summer and fall, the trail can see over 2000 bikers in a single day.

Directions to trailhead:

We recommend hiring a shuttle service in either Abingdon or Damascus. For a reasonable fee, they will drive you and your bikes to White Top Station. This lets you enjoy the entire trail without having to backtrack on the return trip to your car.

Molly’s Knob

October 12, 2009August 26, 20153 Comments

Molly’s Knob is the best known hike in Hungry Mother State Park. On a clear day, views of Mount Rogers can be seen from the summit.

Adam takes a look at Molly's Knob from the viewing platform lower on the trail. — Adam takes a look at Molly’s Knob from the viewing platform lower on the trail.

Adam Says

On our way down to Abingdon for a weekend of hiking and biking in the Highlands, we decided to stop by Hungry Mother State Park. There is an interesting legend surrounding the origin of the park’s name. Native Americans destroyed many settlements south of this park on the New River. Molly Marley and her child survived the raid and were taken captive. Eventually they escaped the raiders. They wandered through the wilderness until Molly finally collapsed. Her child wandered away, hungry and alone. Eventually the child was found by residents of a small settlement near where the park stands today. All the child would say was “Hungry Mother”. A search party went out to find Molly, but they were too late. There are some variations to this legend, but it is an interesting tale.

The colors of the fall leaves were really quite gorgeous in the park, so we decided walk around a bit. Of course, the hiking enthusiasts that we are, we decided to try the hike up Molly’s Knob.

We parked in a small lot on the northeast side of Hungry Mother Lake. We left the car and began walking the Lake Trail Loop, giving us glimpses of the beauty of the lake. After .5 miles, this joined the blue-blazed Ridge Trail. We continued on this up a steady uphill grade for .2 miles until we reached the viewing platform pictured below. With the beautiful colors on the mountain of Molly’s Knob in view, we decided to take the remaining trip to the summit. We continued up the white-blazed Molly’s Knob Trail for .9 miles. The trail was marked as a black diamond trail, but we didn’t find this portion to be too difficult. After the .9 miles, we began the fuchsia-blazed Vista Trail. This was the steepest portion of the hike, but once we got to the top, we were quite impressed by the view. While I scurried around looking for a geocache, Christine enjoyed taking a few pictures of the views. We shortened the trip back by just following the Molly’s Knob Trail to our car. We were worried about the hike taking too much out of us for our trip to Mount Rogers the next day, but it was worth the risk to see these views.

There are several geocaches to find in Hungry Mother State Park, but here are the few that I located on the trail:

The forest was filled with foliage of every color. Pictured Below: The golden foliage along this trail was especially spectacular. Adam even found several geocaches along the way.

Christine Says…

Going on this hike was completely unintentional. We wanted to drive through Hungry Mother State Park just to see what the park had to offer. But the foliage along the lake was so pretty, that we felt compelled to get out of the car and walk a bit. I thought a short stroll along the level Lake Trail would be pleasant and scenic.

After a short bit of walking, we reached the junction of the Ridge Trail, and decided to turn there to make a short 1 mile loop back to the car. At the top of the ridge, we saw the platform overlooking Molly’s Knob off in the distance. Next to the platform, a sign indicated that the summit was only 1.3 miles further. The short distance made the summit far too tempting, and we were on our way. I kind of regretted not changing clothes before we hiked. The impromptu nature of this hike had me wearing jeans, a dressy shirt and my hair was down. About halfway up the steep climb, I would have traded just about anything for a ponytail holder. As luck would have it, someone left a pack of hair elastics in one of the geocache boxes Adam found. I was much more comfortable with my hair up, but hiking in jeans is never fun.

The view from the top was obscured by fog and clouds, but it was still beautiful with all the fall color. Pictured Below: You get some nice views of the lake along the trail.

There were some steep sections of trail, but the fall colors were so beautiful I hardly noticed the climb. We had almost the entire trail to ourselves, too. We saw just two other solo hikers near the beginning of the hike, but after that we didn’t encounter a single soul. The wind was rustling through the treetops, sending colored leaves falling down all around us. Plumes of fog curled around the folds of the mountains. Off in the distance, we could hear a pileated woodpecker cackling. In no time, we reached the summit and its beautiful view of the valley. There were two benches built into the summit, so it was a perfect place to rest before hiking back down.

The trail down was so steep in some places, that momentum had us practically running downhill. The final stretch back gave us a very pretty view of the lake and the beach below. This hike turned out to be a great surprise!

Trail Notes

Distance – 3.8 miles the way we went making a partial loop. You can shed .4 miles off, by cutting out the Lake Trail Loop trail and Ridge Trail
Elevation Change –1000 feet
Difficulty – 3. The steepest parts were the Ridge Trail portion and the Vista Trail, but we found it to be a moderate hike.
Trail Conditions – 4 The trail is well-maintained and traveled. We found the Vista Trail to be a little slippery during the rain due to some clay surface.
Views –3.5. Great views from the summit and Hungry Mother Lake. On a clear day, you should be able to see Mount Rogers.
Waterfalls/streams –2. You do get some nice views of the lake. Since it used to be a stream before it was dammed, we thought it was worth mentioning.
Wildlife – 1. We saw a pileated woodpecker, but nothing else. There is some good birding in the area.
Ease to Navigate – 4. There are a few switches in trails during the path we chose, but everything was well-marked.
Solitude – 4. We only saw two people on the trail on a Saturday afternoon, so I’m guessing it is not very well-traveled. During heavy camping weekends, I would expect more traffic.

Directions to trailhead:
On I-81, take exit 47 and then take 11 South. After a little over a mile, take a right on to 16. Follow this into Hungry Mother State Park (fee required of $2-$3). Take a right immediately after the P6 lot and continue on the road until you reach a cul-de-sac parking lot. The sign for the Lake Trail Loop is at the end of the cul-de-sac.

Traces Trail

September 30, 2009April 29, 2022Leave a comment

The Traces Trail is a short, easy stroll through the woods. Located near Mathews Arm Campground in Shenandoah National Park, this hike is perfectly suited for families with young children and novice hikers.

The Traces Trail has some hints of the area's bygone mountain people. — The Traces Trail has some hints of the area’s bygone mountain people.

Adam Says…

We decided to do a couple of short hikes on a Sunday afternoon. Since we had just been pounded with rain the last few days, we were worried that hiking would be a little muddy, but that didn’t seem to be the case.

We had read about the Traces Trail in the North District of Shenandoah National Park in a hiking guide we had at home. The write-up in the book seemed to make this out to be a wonderful hiking trail where you would see glimpses of life from a bygone era and hints of mountainous views. You do get to see a few stone walls along the way and a glimpse or two of views through thick tree growth, but the overall hike doesn’t have much of a payoff.

I would recommend this hike if you just want to enjoy a nice walk through the woods, but there is not a lot to see here.

You start the hike from the eastern side of the parking lot (the post is painted with Traces Trail on it). You’ll pass a few concrete posts that mark where the trail intersects with other trails, but just stay on the Traces Trail throughout.

One interesting thing on the trail is you will eventually come to a sign in front of a fenced-in area. The area is being fenced to determine if white-tailed deer are damaging local flora. The fences are high enough that deer can not jump them. We didn’t see much difference from the fenced-in area and where we were, so it will be interesting to see if the research leads to any findings.

We didn't see much wildlife on the hike. — We didn’t see much wildlife on the hike.

Christine Says

There really aren’t too many things to say about this trail. It was short and pleasant, but had little in the way of scenery or unique features. On the day we walked this trail, a big storm system was just leaving the area, so the weather was cool and very breezy. I actually remember the sound of the wind rustling in the trees more than I remember anything about the trail. It was a beautiful day to be outdoors.

As Adam mentioned, there were some historical artifacts along the trail. We saw crumbling stone walls, overgrown old roads and remnant apple trees mixed in with newer growth. The cultural history of the park is interesting and still somewhat controversial. Many people aren’t aware that Shenandoah’s land was essentially stolen from the mountain people who had lived there long before the idea for this national park was born. The park was authorized in 1926. From that point on, government officials systematically (and often forcefully) removed families from their land. The mountain people were portrayed in the media as ignorant and uneducated. Newspaper articles made it sound like the government was doing these people a favor by relocating them to settlements outside the park. If you read the history and letters from the original park residents, you’ll see that these people were not country bumpkins who needed the government’s care. They were mostly hardworking families who loved the land they had long called home.

Trail Notes

Distance – 1.7 miles loop
Elevation Change – Maybe a couple hundred feet
Difficulty – 1. Other than two short climbs near the beginning of the trail, this hike is relatively level.
Trail Conditions – 4. The trail is well-maintained and easy to walk.
Views –1. You get a few glimpses of a view through the trees, but mostly this is just a pleasant walk through the woods.
Waterfalls/streams –0. Non-existent.
Wildlife – 1 A few birds and squirrels.
Ease to Navigate – 3. There are a few junctions along this trail, but if you keep following the markers for the Traces Trail, you can’t go wrong.
Solitude – 2. This trail’s easy terrain, short distance and location next to Mathews Arm Campground make this a popular trail, especially for families.

Directions to trailhead:
Follow Skyline Drive to the Mathews Arm Campground at mile marker 22. Park at the amphitheater and follow the blue-blazed Traces Trail that departs from the east end of the parking lot.

Big Schloss

September 21, 2009August 26, 201511 Comments

Big Schloss is a moderate 4 mile hike with gorgeous views at the top. Located in George Washington National Forest’s Lee Ranger District, this trail is one of our favorite re-hikes due to great views and beauty of the trail.

Christine's dad and Adam at the Big Schloss overlook. — Christine’s dad and Adam at the Big Schloss overlook.

Adam says…

Since Christine’s birthday is this week, her parents wanted to do something to celebrate. So, we decided to take them on a hike to Big Schloss and have a picnic. We’ve done this hike on numerous occasions, but this was the first time for her parents.

German settlers to this area named this rock outcropping “Big Schloss” due to its resemblance to a castle. “Schloss” means “castle” in German.

We parked at the Wolf Gap Campground. There are outhouses near the parking lot in case you need to make a pit stop before the hike. The Mill Mountain trailhead starts out from campsite #9. You’ll see the trail marker indicating a distance of two miles to Big Schloss.

Christine's mom climbs the Mill Mountain Trail — Christine’s mom climbs the Mill Mountain Trail. Below: We saw lots of red and yellow in the trees already, the first panoramic view after the initial ascent, Christine’s Mom and Dad check out the small cave

The hike starts off with a fairly steep and steady uphill. However, you are getting this portion of the hike done with first, which is a nice bonus. After .66 miles, your climb ends. When you reach the ridge, the trail takes a sharp turn to the left. For most of the remainder of this hike, you will be walking on the top of the ridge, with occasional views through the trees to your left of the Long Mountain ridge and better views to your right.

At .78 miles, you will come to your first overlook. We noticed quite a bit of tree color on the trail and at the overlooks, which gets us both excited for some fall hiking. You’ll continue walking on the ridge, going slightly up and down, but not a lot of elevation change. At 1.75 miles, you will reach a signpost leading you to take a right to take the Big Schloss spur trail to the summit just .25 miles ahead. At 1.9 miles, you will see a campsite off to the left of the main trail and a small rock outcrop that holds a small cave.

You access the Big Schloss overlook via a small wood footbridge.

Shortly after this, you will cross a wooden footbridge and then reach the summit for the best views. There is not a ton of room on the rocks to view the summit, but you will likely have a spot to enjoy the view and eat a snack.

At the summit, we ate a small handful of trailmix and then made our way back to the parking lot for a picnic lunch. Christine’s mother went overboard on packing for the picnic. She brought about 15 pieces of fried chicken, various pasta salads, pineapple, grapes, cheese & crackers, three different bags of potato chips, assorted beverages, and two birthday cakes (lemon blueberry cake and coconut cake). We ate way more than should have, but we had a wonderful morning for a hike.

Adam and our friend Shannon found the Big Schloss Cache back in 2007.

If you are into geocaching, there is one that you can find not too far from the summit.

Big Schloss Cache

Christine Says…

Big Schloss is one of my favorite hikes in the Lee District. It’s a beautiful hike in every season! Springtime brings a trail lined with mountain laurel and rhododendron. In the fall, the changing foliage colors spread across the valley below like a colorful tapestry (photo from Fall ’08). Summer brings fog in the valley and dense green foliage all around (photo from May 2007). In the winter, views are crystal clear and unobstructed for miles and miles.

Big Schloss offers beautiful, panoramic views - especially to the west. — Big Schloss offers beautiful, panoramic views – especially to the west.

The area is popular with central Virginians. The Wolf Gap campground is often full, and you’ll see hiking groups – especially on weekends. We’ve seen everything from hardcore mountain bikers to ultra-distance trail runners on the Mill Mountain trail. A couple years ago, we even met a team of competitive cyclists helping an injured teammate off the mountain. The terrain is very rugged, so I imagine you’d have to be an experienced mountain biker to travel this route.

On this particular day, we hiked with my Mom & Dad to celebrate my birthday. In addition to their wonderful company, I also got the gift of a new hiking gadget before starting the hike. My parents gave me a pair of Komperdell trekking poles. I’ve been wanting to get a set of poles for quite some time now, so I was thrilled with the present. I don’t really have the best of balance, so I loved the added stability the poles gave me hiking down the loose, rocky trail on the return trip. I was also amazed with how much strain they took off my knees. The model they gave me has cork handles, which are apparently cooler and chafe less than other handle types.

We were surprised to see how many colorful leaves had already fallen.

When we started out on our hike, the sky was brilliant blue with just an occasional cloud passing by overhead. By the time we got to the overlook, the sky was mostly cloudy and hazy. It wasn’t the best view that we’ve ever had from Big Schloss, but it was beautiful nonetheless. I loved seeing the hints of autumn starting to appear in the forest. The Virginia creeper was crimson. A lot of maples and dogwoods were starting to change, too. At every open viewpoint, we could see distant ridges with red, yellow and orange trees peppered into the greenness. Fall is definitely on its way, and I think it might be coming early this year.

We really didn’t stay too long at the summit, especially since we had a big picnic lunch waiting for us at the campground. As Adam mentioned, my mom went nuts with quantity and selection. I’m not complaining, but seriously… who brings two birthday cakes to a picnic lunch for four people?

My mom even brought birthday candles along. My family “sang” Happy Birthday to me while the breeze repeatedly blew out the candles. You’ll notice “sang” is in quote marks. I have to tell you, my family cannot sing – not a single note. They’re so bad, it’s become a family joke to make “Happy Birthday to You” sound like the saddest, most off-key, howl-inducing dirge you might ever imagine. Since we were in a public place, my dad and Adam put extra effort into singing it loudly and badly. I think I heard babies crying, dogs barking and campers exclaiming “What is that noise?”

After lunch, we parted ways with my parents and headed home. It was a great hike.

Note: There is another great trail starting out from the Wolf Gap Campground. If you have a couple days in the area, check out the Tibbet Knob trail.

Trail Notes

Distance – 4 milesout-and-back. Add another .1 mile to get to your car.
Elevation Change –1000 feet
Difficulty – 2. After a rather steep .7 mile climb at the beginning, the trail is mostly level and follows a ridge. There is one other short climb after the Mill Mountain Trail meets up with the Big Schloss spur.
Trail Conditions – 2.5. The trail is well-maintained but it’s rocky and has lots of loose footing in the first .7 mile.
Views –4.5. The view are pretty spectacular – especially on a clear day.
Waterfalls/streams –0. Non-existent.
Wildlife – 0 We didn’t see anything beyond chipmunks, birds and squirrels. We did see a fawn near the Wolf Gap campground.
Ease to Navigate – 4. Just stay straight on the trail.
Solitude – 2. This trail doesn’t see the same crowds as trails in Shenandoah National Park, but it is a popular hike with the local crowd.

Download a Trail Map (PDF)

Directions to trailhead:
From I-81, take exit 279. Follow Rte. 675 until it meets Route 42. Turn right on 42 and then take almost an immediate left on 675 (Wolf Gap Road). Follow Wolf Gap Road (you will have to make a few turns so keep an eye at road junctions) until you come to the Wolf Gap Campground (right on the Hardy County Line.)

Hightop Mountain

September 9, 2009December 22, 20161 Comment

Hightop Mountain is a nice hike along the Appalachian Trail in the Southern District of Shenandoah National Park. It features a super view and you can take a short spur trail to view an Appalachian Trail shelter.

It wasn't the prettiest day for hiking, but the view from Hightop was still impressive. Hightop is the tallest peak in the south district of the park. — It wasn’t the prettiest day for hiking, but the view from Hightop was still impressive. Hightop is the tallest peak in the south district of the park.

Adam Says…

Wow, it’s been a while. Sorry for the delay in posting anything new for a while, but life has just gotten in the way. We did get to go for a week in the White Mountains of New Hampshire and our annual trip to Acadia National Park in Maine, but we haven’t hiked in Virginia for a while. We’re just now getting back into the swing of things. We had a limited time on Sunday to do a hike, so we decided to pick something close by and relatively short. It was great to get back on the trails!

The hike was very nice. The trail had a steady uphill the entire way up, but it felt very manageable. We noticed that the trail was a little more overgrown than normal. This year has seemed to be great for weeds growing early on in the summer. Usually we have better views along the side of Skyline Drive and the trails, but things seem to have grown wilder this year. I’m sure the rain and cooler summer temps have caused this. The grass and weeds along the way tended to tickle our legs. The hike didn’t have a lot to view along the way, but it was nice to take a side trip and view the AT cabin and log. Around 1.2 miles, you will reach the intersection with the Smith Roach Gap Fire Road. Just cross the road to continue on the AT. You can reach the AT cabin by taking the spur trail shortly after the intersection with the Smith Roach Gap Fire Road. I always enjoy reading through the logs of those that have passed through. In this logbook there was some entries about people bringing the thru-hikers food, some card game scores, and a tale about how a bunch of them danced naked in the evening.

The views at the top really do show you a lot of mountains to the south and you can get nice glimpses of Skyline Drive. On a nice fall day, this could be a great photo opportunity when the leaves change color.

On the way back after .6 miles, you can take the option of taking the Smith Roach Gap Fire Road back to your car by taking a left, but the fire road looked very overgrown, so we opted to just go back the way we came.

Hightop Hut offers a nice rest stop for weary hikers and backpackers. Below: The hut has a trail journal. They are always a lot of fun to read.

Christine Says…

It was so great to get back out on the trail again! I loved lacing my boots up, feeling the trail crunching under my soles and hearing the sounds of late summer bees buzzing lazily through the wild flowers. I’ve been out of the woods for far too long.

The hike up Hightop is one we’ve done several times now, but we’ve always approached the summit as an out-and-back from the northern end of the trail. It’s shorter and steeper, but gets you to the same viewpoint. I actually enjoyed this southern approach quite a bit more. The grade was very gentle and gradual. This route also gave us the opportunity to visit the Hightop Hut. I always like to stop by the AT shelters and read the trail journals.

This cute little toad was one of the few wildlife specimens we saw along our walk.

The view from the summit of Hightop was beautiful. The sky may have been cloudy, but we could still see ten layers of mountain ridges fading into the distant southwest. We also got a nice view of our “home” mountain – Massanutten.

After the hike, Adam and I started casually tossing around the idea of doing a long backpacking trip next summer. We might try to hike the 101 miles of the Appalachian Trail through Shenandoah National Park sometime next spring. The more we talk about it, the less casual the idea seems. We’ll see…

Trail Notes

Distance – 3.8 miles out-and-back which includes an optional .2 mile trip to an AT shelter
Elevation Change –967 feet
Difficulty – 2. While it is a steady uphill the way up, it’s not too steep of a grade.
Trail Conditions – 4. The trail is well-traveled and well-maintained.
Views –3. At the summit, you do have a chance to get some nice views of Skyline Drive and beyond. We counted a series of 10 ridges of depth at the top.
Waterfalls/streams –0. Non-existent.
Wildlife – .5 Other than a toad, we only saw one doe. There also didn’t appear to be a lot of birds on this trail.
Ease to Navigate – 4. Just stay straight on the trail.
Solitude – 3.5 This trail doesn’t see a lot of traffic, but would be busier during the AT thru-hiking in the summer.

Directions to trailhead:
Park on the east side of Skyline Drive at Smith Roach Gap (around mile marker 68.5). At the end of the parking lot, go on the fire road. The trail takes off about 10 yards on the left.

Lewis Spring Falls

July 9, 2009August 26, 20154 Comments

Lewis Spring Falls is a hike leading to the fourth tallest waterfall in the park. It starts out from the Big Meadows amphitheater.

This nice view of the layered mountains comes near the end of the hike. This view is much more impressive than the waterfall this trail is named for.

Adam Says…

In my opinion, Lewis Spring Falls is decent for a waterfall hike. If you are visiting Shenandoah National Park, I would recommend Dark Hollow Falls, Rose River Falls, South River Falls, Doyles River or White Oak Canyon before this one.

We started this trail from the amphitheater at Big Meadows. You can also take off from the Big Meadows Campground, adding an extra .8 miles to your trip, but we feel this is the best way to see what is necessary. From the parking lot, you’ll go down a very short spur to connect with the Appalachian Trail. After a short distance, there is a cement post to let you know to leave the AT and proceed on the trail to the right for the Lewis Spring Falls.

Shortly after we started the Lewis Spring Falls trail, we had a great barred owl viewing. We heard a bunch of birds causing quite a racket. We stopped to try to identify the birds, when I spotted the barred owl on the tree. There were at least six chickadees that were dive-bombing the owl. Our guess is that they were trying to protect chicks nearby. As the owl looked in one direction, the chickadees took turns diving down to snip on the owl’s back. It reminded me of the old elementary school trick, when you would tap on someone’s shoulder to make them look behind their shoulder when nobody was there. We got to watch this interaction for several minutes before the owl finally flew away to a different tree, giving the chickadees a moment of victory. However, the owl may ultimately win the war when the sun sets.

The trail down to the falls is quite rocky. While it is well-traveled, the trail is very steep downhill. This will make you constantly have to watch where you are placing your feet, as rocks and gravel are very loose. Once you have traveled 1.2 miles, you will come to a post showing that the viewpoint is shortly ahead. This post also includes the junction of the trail for your return loop. You will cross a stream but there are tons of rocks in the trail to make this an easy crossing.

On your return trip from the viewpoint, shortly after crossing the stream, you will take the spur trail to the right that connects to the Appalachian Trail. This is a constant uphill through more rocky terrain for .7 miles. You will come to a gravel road and a cement post showing that the AT trail junction is up ahead 70 yards. Take the AT to the left (north) to get back to the parking lot. The AT is definitely easier to walk, but the trail stays uphill at a slightly lesser grade. You will eventually come up behind the Big Meadows Lodge. There is a nice viewpoint to the west from a rocky overlook, which may give you a nice place to view a sunset and still be close to the parking lot.

Along with the owl, lots of birds and several deer - we saw lots of chipmunks along the way. — Along with the owl, lots of birds and several deer – we saw lots of chipmunks along the way.

One side note is that before you reach the Lodge, there is a side trail to Blackrock, another popular trail to view a sunset. This has been closed until further notice due to Peregrine Falcons nesting.

Christine Says…

I told Adam I was going to write a one word entry for this hike and that word was going to be “lame”! Maybe I was in a crabby mood on this particular evening, but I still think there are so many nicer waterfall hikes in the park. We hadn’t hiked to Lewis Spring Falls in three or four years. I had remembered the falls being substantially more impressive than what we encountered on this particular night. Even with all the wet weather we’ve had this spring/summer, the waterfall was down to a trickle. When we got to the viewing point, I told Adam that the faucet in our bathtub has a more impressive flow. My other problem was the light. Even in late evening, the sun was still high enough in the western sky to put the waterfall in direct sunlight – so, alas – no nice photos of the falls.

The terrain on the trail down to the falls is tough going – steep, scrabbly rocks that force you to look down and pay attention to every step you take. I always prefer to hike places where I can look around and enjoy the trail-side scenery instead of constantly following every move of my hiking boots.

We only saw one other pair of hikers along the trail – a couple guys trying to find their way down to the base of the falls. Another drawback to the Lewis Spring Falls is the fact that there is no good, safe way to reach the base of the falls. Our hiking book advises explicitly not to attempt to climb down – there is no trail and there have actually been fatalities at this waterfall. I do know a few people who have climbed to the bottom, none of them said it was worthwhile. We watched the two guys make a couple unsuccessful attempts to descend before they eventually gave up.

The hike back up is on the long arm of the loop, so it’s a long, steady uphill back to the amphitheater. By the time we got back, I was pretty tired and hungry. I’m definitely a morning person through and through. Evening hikes, even the short and easy ones, really have a tendency to kick my butt. If I was pressed to share my favorite thing about this hike, it would have to be the owl sighting. That was pretty cool.

Trail Notes

Distance – 3.0 mile loop trail (longer options are also possible depending on how you connect to the trail)
Elevation Change – 990 feet.
Difficulty – 3. The route we hiked was moderate.
Trail Conditions – 2. The AT section is nice footing, but the trail down to the falls and back up is quite treacherous.
Views –2. There are views from the overlook near the falls, but the nicest mountain views are near the end of the hike.
Waterfalls/streams –3. Decent waterfall views, but because you can’t get to the bottom easily, you can only appreciate it from afar.
Wildlife –3. We have heard a bear on this trail before. We saw a barred owl and several deer near the Big Meadows area.
Ease to Navigate – 4. The trail is easy to follow and marked with blue blazes.
Solitude – 2. You’re likely to see some people here since the close proximity to Big Meadows.

Directions to trailhead:

Follow Skyline Drive to the Big Meadows Area near mile 51.2. Follow the signs to the amphitheater. At the parking lot near the amphitheater, you will see the post marking the trailhead.

Stony Man and Little Stony Man

June 23, 2009April 29, 202212 Comments

This hike is an easy, 2.9 mile walk along (mostly) the Appalachian Trail to the summit of Shenandoah’s second highest peak. The two main vantage points along the way provide nice views of Skyline Drive and Skyland Resort below.

Christine Says…

We chose this hike for a quick evening trip to the park. Before I get started on the trail description, let me share what an amazing night we had for wildlife watching. We saw eleven bears (four of them were young cubs), a couple pairs of twin fawns, many large bucks and a beautiful barred owl. No matter how many times we visit Shenandoah, the park always has something new to offer in form of scenery or wildlife.

Now, onto the hike! We started out at the Little Stony Man Cliffs parking area, a few miles north of Skyland Resort. The route is all uphill with 750 feet of elevation gain. For that bit of climbing, you get to enjoy the views from Little Stony Man Cliffs, which (in my opinion) are far prettier than the Stony Man summit. I love the way Skyline Drive looks winding through the woods from the cliffs’ vantage point. In autumn, the afternoon light sets the foliage ablaze at this spot. If the sky is clear, you get a beautiful view of the Page Valley. The lake you see down on the valley floor is Lake Arrowhead. We had a lot of haze on our trip, which was no surprise – thick, milky skies are the norm during Virginia summers. Until this week, we had been lucky and had been enjoying unseasonably clear skies (on the days it wasn’t raining, at least). 🙂

The haze seen from Stony Man Summit was so milky and thick.

There are several trail junctions along this route, so pay attention to the cement trail markers. If you keep following the arrows for the Stony Man summit, you can’t get lost. The climb to Little Stony Man Cliffs is short – less than a half mile of the hike. After crossing the cliffs, the grade of the trail moderates. At around the 1.3 mark, the Appalachian Trail crosses the blue-blazed Stony Man loop trail. You can take either arm of the loop at this point. We usually follow the right side of the loop up and take the other side back down. This section of the hike includes an interpretive nature trail. If you pick up a brochure at Skyland, you can read information coinciding with a series of numbered markers along the way.

When we got to the summit of Stony Man, it was cloudy, chilly and exceedingly windy. I could hardly take a photo without feeling like I was going to blow off the mountainside. We could still see all the cabins and main lodge of Skyland, but most of the valley view was completely obscured by the haze. We noticed that one small section of the cliff-side was closed for peregrine falcon activity. We didn’t stay long at the summit because sundown was rapidly approaching and I didn’t want to hike in the dark. On our way down, we crossed paths with a doe and her twin fawns. They were very cute, but quite skittish. They darted off into the woods before I could manage any photos. The entire walk back to the car was easy and downhill, and retraced the same route we had taken up.

These twin fawns quickly disappeared into the woods.

Adam Says…

This was a great hike to get big view payoffs with minimal effort. We were able to do this after dinner in a little over an hour.

The Little Stony Man Cliffs are a popular spot for Virginia rock climbing. The cliffs provide several different paths to climb and rappel off the cliffs. We once ran into a group of college students from The College of William & Mary that were learning rock climbing skills.

We encountered a pair of hikers as soon as we got to the first junction. The two hikers shown below were from Louisiana and they were taking seven days to hike the entire stretch of the Appalachian Trail that goes through Shenandoah National Park. They were averaging about 15-16 miles per day and were on their way to Skyland. Their backpacks were quite heavy, since they were packing for their entire trip. They told us they weren’t regular hikers, so we wondered afterward what compelled them to do this trip. It sounds like a fun trip!

We met two guys who were hiking the 105 miles of the AT through Shenandoah.

From Little Stony Man Cliffs, you can get a good look at the “stony man”. If you look to the south from the overlook, you can see the profile of what looks like a face. The Appalachian Mountains are some of the oldest mountains on the planet. The volcanic activity that occurred when tectonic plates moved against each other formed these mountains. Once you can picture the nose of Stony Man, you can quickly see the forehead, eye, mouth, and beard.

Stony Man from Skyline Drive - Can you see the face? — Stony Man from Skyline Drive – Can you see the face?

If you are interested in geocaching, there is a geocache through the Little Stony Man trail that gives you a lot of information about the geology of the area.

Little Stony Man Geocache

Trail Notes

Distance – 2.9 miles for the round-trip
Elevation Change – 750 feet
Difficulty – 2. This is a relatively easy walk with a little moderate uphill walking.
Trail Conditions – 3.5. There are some rocky sections and a little rock scrambling at viewpoints, but the trail is well-maintained.
Views – 3.5. Pretty views of the drive, Skyland Resort and the Page Valley
Waterfalls/streams – 0. None.
Wildlife – 2.5. Maybe some deer and birds. There are a lot of bears around Skyland, but we’ve never seen them along the Stony Man trail.
Ease to Navigate – 3.5. Pay attention at the cement markers. As long as you follow the arrows pointing to Stony Man, you won’t get lost.
Solitude – 1. This trail is one of the park’s most popular short hikes. If you want to avoid crowds, hike it on a weekday or very early on a weekend morning.

Directions to trailhead: The trail starts at the Little Stony Man Cliffs parking area along Skyline Drive. The lot is near mile marker 39.

The Priest

June 17, 2009August 26, 201550 Comments

The Priest is a wonderful segment hike along the Appalachian Trail in the George Washington National Forest’s Glenwood & Pedlar Ranger District. The northbound trail access may be a little tough for some people to reach (4WD vehicles are strongly recommended), but if you can get there, you’ll be treated to magnificent views of the Tye River Valley.

Adam Says…

This was hike number two for us on a three-hike-day. This was our first trip up The Priest, and it was well-worth the bumpy drive to get to the trail. See the directions to trailhead (below) for some special precautions to take when approaching the trailhead. On route 826, we decided to go a little further than Crabtree Meadows, but didn’t make it all the way up by car to the AT junction. We ended up parking at a campsite and hiking up the fire road for .3 miles. Many people will want to park at Crabtree Meadows, but that will add one mile to the overall distance. Route 826 can be quite steep. In fact, some sections of the road are much steeper than anything you’ll see on the actual trail. We saw a Jeep brigade coming down the steepest section of road, but they looked like seasoned off-roaders.

Route 826 gets progressively rougher. Pictured below: A group of off-roaders make their way down the road.

When you reach the junction (you’ll see painted rocks indicating north/south) of the Appalachian trail, head north (left). You will come across the Priest Wilderness sign and trail map. When I was telling someone earlier about doing this trail today, they were wondering about the origin of the name “The Priest”. The true origin is unknown, but there are a few myths. The first is that it was named after the DuPriest family that lived in the area. The second is that a minister in the area gave some of these nearby mountains religious names. The Cardinal and The Friar are both close to The Priest.

Adam enjoys reading the journal at the AT shelter. Pictured Below: Some of the entries are funny, some divulge a little bit too much information.

We found that the trail was a steady incline, but nothing too strenuous. There was supposed to be a side trail to The Little Priest at .7 miles, but we didn’t see it (but we weren’t looking too hard). At .9 miles, you will see a blue-blazed spur trail to an Appalachian Trail shelter. We definitely recommend taking the extra .2 mile round trip to visit the shelter. These shelters are a great place for all of the AT hikers to get together and have a roof over their head for a night. At most of the shelters, you can find a journal in which the hikers will write about their day or plans, leave notes for other hikers, etc. Since this hike is The Priest, the theme of this logbook was to make a confession. It was a lot of fun to read through the journal entries. These confessions ranged from eating two Poptarts, to taking drugs, to not paying for supplies. If you happen to be hiking the trail in June when most of the AT thru-hikers are passing through, consider bringing along some treats to share. It’s a form of “trail magic” and is always appreciated. (read the guidelines – there are some tips for dispensing good magic on the Appalachian Trail Conservancy Site) We did see a few thru-hikers on the trail today, but we hadn’t thought ahead to bring anything.

Around 1.3 miles, you will see some overhanging rocks to the north that lead to some marvelous views. Take some time to enjoy the views. The summit is only .1 mile further, but there are no views at the summit. We really enjoyed this hike and hope to do this one again as well as the nearby Spy Rock.

Christine Says…

The Priest was probably my favorite of the three hikes we did on this particular day. Discovering a new hike is always a real treat, especially when it turns out to be as nice as this one.

There are actually two different ways to access the summit of The Priest. The southbound ascent is longer and much tougher – it follows the AT along a series of forty switchbacks with just over 3000 feet of elevation gain. It might be the hike with the most elevation gain in all of Virginia. One hiker remarked in the journal that the southbound climb “made him realize that he’s not the man he thought he was.” I guess that’s one way of saying that the hike was a long, tough haul!

We chose the northbound ascent primarily based on our limited time. The hike was listed in our book as strenuous, but I did not find it to be tough at all. The uphill grade was constant, but gentle. Adam and I were easily able to carry on conversation without any huffing and puffing uphill.

The terrain on this hike was so pretty! Along the first part of the trail, forest floor was blanketed with lush ferns. Every now and then, we could catch glimpses through the trees of the valley below. The summit of The Priest is 4,063 feet, so we were pretty high up (by Virginia standards, anyhow).

When we finally gained the ridge, there was a perfect (and obviously popular) campsite. Encircling the area was a collection of huge boulders arranged in an almost Zen-like natural sculpture. Amidst the boulders, there was a fire pit and a large smooth, open place to set up tents. If I were to spend a night along the trail, this would be my ideal kind of campsite.

Shortly after the campsite, the trail split. One arm headed down to the shelter and the other continued along the AT up to the summit of The Priest. This section of trail was lined with mountain laurels and wild azaleas in full bloom. Several places along the trail were covered with a carpet of pink and white flower petals that had been blown from the bushes. It was almost dreamlike to walk through all the flowers. In the tree tops, we heard the constant sweet sound of warblers singing. We even caught a few glimpses of the birds. The ridge is fairly level, so this walking was very easy and pleasant.

Wild Azalea flowers carpeted the forest floor. Pictured below: Many of the azaleas and mountain laurels were still in full bloom.

I had read that the summit of The Priest was a lovely shady place, but didn’t offer much in the way of panoramic views. So, it was much to my surprise and delight to find a worn path through the woods that led to an amazing outcropping of rocks with spectacular views of the entire valley below. Even though it was close to high noon, I loved photographing this spot along the trail. The sky conditions were a photographer’s dream – cerulean blue punctuated with both swishes and puffs of white cloud.

Adam and I sat on this spot for a good, long while. We shared a chocolate donut and some water, watched the hawks soar below and took in the valley view. Afterwards, we made the short walk to the actual summit. There was a fat toad sitting right along the trail at the summit. I like to think of him as the official summit marker.

The hike back down to the car was fun – all downhill – just the way I like it!

Trail Notes

Distance – 2.8 miles out-and-back. We also recommend adding the .2 mile trail down to the AT shelter. If you park at Crabtree Meadows, add a mile on to the trail’s total length.
Elevation Change – 1,000 feet
Difficulty – 2. While the trail does have a moderate elevation change, the uphill is not too tough. If you have to hike up the fire road from Crabtree Meadows to get to the trailhead, that will be much tougher than anything along the AT.
Trail Conditions – 4. Like most of the AT in Virginia, this section is nicely maintained.
Views – 4. Gorgeous views of about 150 degrees of views out into the Tye River Valley
Waterfalls/streams – 0. None, but there is a small spring-fed water source near the shelter.
Wildlife – 1.5. We didn’t see much, but this is wilderness area. There are lots of nice birds for any ornithologists. We saw a cerulean warbler, which has such a gorgeous song.
Ease to Navigate – 4.5. Just stay on the AT.
Solitude –4. Since it is difficult to get to, you may run across some backpackers or AT thru-hikers, but not many others.

Directions to trailhead: The best access to this trail is via VA-826. If you are approaching from I-81, take exit 205 towards Steeles Tavern. Take a left on to Rte. 11 and then a quick right on to VA-56 heading east. Follow this past the Blue Ridge Parkway (near BRP Mile Marker 30) and then take a right shortly after the Fish Hatchery on to VA-826. There is a sign at the entrance that you need to have four-wheel drive to travel on this road. It is a bumpy gravel road where you have to cross several small streams. Once you reach Crabtree Meadows, it is .5 mile before you can reach the AT trailhead to start The Priest trail. Many cars should be able to get up to Crabtree Meadows, but the last .5 mile should be taken cautiously and done only if you have a confident driver and appropriate vehicle.

Limberlost Trail

June 12, 2009August 26, 201513 Comments

The Limberlost Trail is a very short loop through a once beautiful area of Shenandoah National Park.

Part of the Limberlost Trail is along a boardwalk.

Adam Says…

This is a trail that absolutely anyone should be able to do. I would actually classify this as a walk rather than a hike. It’s a flat, gravel trail with basically no change in elevation. Pets and bikes aren’t allowed here, so leave them at home. Camping is also not permitted.

The trail is probably best known for its views of trees, birds, and other wildlife. The trail crosses the White Oak Canyon trail in case you would like to branch off and combine that for a longer hike.

This trail has a little history to it. Addie Pollack bought 100 of the large hemlock trees in the area for $1000 to help preserve this land in 1920 from logging. Her husband named it the Limberlost Forest after the novel A Girl of the Limberlost. The Pollocks were responsible for establishing Skyland as a resort destination. The large hemlock trees are now gone (killed by an accidentally imported insect – the hemlock wooly adelgid), but there are still some large spruce trees in the area.

There are many fallen hemlocks along this trail. They used to be the giants of the forest.

Since we live near Shenandoah National Park, we decided to go up in the evening after dinner to explore for wildlife and try a quick hike. We didn’t spot any bears along the way, and got to the trail around 7:00PM. While Christine was taking a photo of me on the boardwalk, I rounded a corner and saw a huge black bear about 100 feet away from me. We’ve heard that lots of people have seen a bear in the Limberlost area, but this was the first time we spotted him. I exclaimed “Bear!” to Christine, but she didn’t believe me because she couldn’t see him due to the trees around us. The bear looked at me for a few seconds and then turned away. We stood around the same area, hoping he would circle around and pose for some good photos, but he wasn’t feeling too photogenic that night and slowly moved along deeper into the woods. We also saw four rabbits along the trail. They are so used to people that they let you get within a few feet before hopping away. As we were getting further along the trail, I paused because I thought I heard something in the woods. There was a big crash in the bushes. Christine was quite startled after seeing the bear, but this crash turned out to only be a doe.

The bear as about 100 feet off the trailside. — The bear at about 100 feet off the trailside. Unfortunately, I just had my wide angle landscape lens when we saw the bear.

Christine Says…

I remember the Limberlost of my youth being a very different place than it is now. When I was a kid, the hemlocks still towered over the trail, making a cool, green umbrella of shade over the path. There was very little undergrowth and the area always felt quiet and sylvan.

Although I still really enjoy a stroll along Limberlost, I must admit that the area makes me feel a little sad for the loss of what once was.

Although the hemlocks are gone, the trail is still lined by beautiful mountain laurel.

The best part about our walk last night was all the wildlife we saw along the short walk. I totally didn’t believe Adam at first when he saw the bear. He jokes about stuff a lot, and he said “Bear” in such a dramatic fashion, that I was sure he was kidding. I don’t really feel nervous or scared when we encounter bears on hikes, but I still jumped when we heard that second crash in the woods. I guess I’m comfortable with the bears I can see, but I don’t want one to come bursting out of the underbrush right into our path. That would be scary!

Unlike mystery crashes in the woods, bunnies are not scary.

Trail Notes

Distance – 1.3 miles loop trail
Elevation Change – insignificant
Difficulty – 0.5. This is about as easy of a hike as anyone could do. The trail is completely covered by gravel and you could even push a wheelchair through the area.
Trail Conditions – 5. The trail is in great shape.
Views – 1. Only views are of birds, trees, and wildlife.
Waterfalls/streams – 0. Non-existent
Wildlife – 4. I would suggest going early in the morning or near dusk for the best wildlife. We saw deer, a bear, rabbits, and lots of different bird species from pileated woodpeckers to eastern towhees.
Ease to Navigate – 4.5. Just follow the gravel.
Solitude – 1.5. Expect to see people due to the short distance and proximity to Skyland Resort.

Directions to trailhead: The parking lot is located around mile marker 43 in the central section of Shenandoah National Park. The trail is a loop that starts at the end of the parking lot. It’s a loop with no elevation difference, so it doesn’t matter which way you proceed.

Hawksbill Summit Loop

June 8, 2009April 29, 202239 Comments

The Hawksbill Summit is a fairly easy, 2.9 mile trail that takes you to the highest peak of Shenandoah National Park at 4,049 feet.

This is the first of the four summit views you'll come to along the Hawksbill Loop Trail. — This is the first of the four summit views you’ll come to along the Hawksbill Loop Trail. Pictured below (left to right): The third viewpoint – the hack box for the falcon chicks is along this rock shelf; The CCC constructed summit; Adam climbing around the rock jumble at the summit.

Adam Says…

We really had one of those almost perfect days in Shenandoah National Park. We made it up to the park before 7AM. There was a lot of fog on the mountains that made for tough visibility, so we decided to grab breakfast at Skyland Resort before setting out on our hike. While we were eating breakfast, our waitress pointed out a black bear right outside the dining room window. It stayed out there for several minutes while people photographed it (they got really close – within 10-15 feet of the bear). While Christine made an attempt to grab her camera from the car for her own photo opportunity (which she missed), I noticed the AT thru-hiker we met on the Loft Mountain Loop had just sat down to dive into a hearty breakfast. I talked to him about how we were thinking about him braving the thunderstorms the last few days. He said that the Tuesday night storms had indeed been brutal.

After breakfast, we drove south from Skyland to start our hike on Hawksbill Summit. The posted trail board listed an out-and-back hike of 1.7 miles and a loop hike of 2.8 miles. We decided to do the loop and were very glad that we did!

Peregrine Falcons are such fast flyers. Adam took this shot and felt lucky to have even part of the bird, in-focus and in the frame. — Hawksbill Mountain is a great place to watch birds of prey. While I was photographing the scenery, Adam took this shot of a bird soaring overhead. He felt pretty lucky to have even part of the bird, in-focus and in the frame. He sometimes feels overwhelmed by all the controls on the dSLR, but I think he does a great job whenever he takes photos.

At around the half mile mark, we heard some screeching up ahead and above. We came up to the first of three talus slopes and sure enough there were a pair of peregrine falcons swooping around. We tried to get some pictures of them flying, but they swooped by way too quickly for the camera to lock focus. When we came to the second talus slope, one of the falcons had landed about 15 feet in front of me, gave me a quick cry, and darted off at eye level from us. We’ve never had an opportunity to see these birds up close. We usually vacation in Acadia National Park every summer. The park’s Precipice Trail is a great place to view falcons; however, this trail is closed off during much of the summer for falcon nesting and we have had to resort to viewing them through binoculars.

The Byrd's Nest #2 Shelter is available for day use only. It's a three-sided structure. — The Byrd’s Nest #2 Shelter is available for day use only. It’s a three-sided structure.

Once we arrived at the Byrd’s Nest Day Shelter near the summit, we ran into a SNP Volunteer who has been monitoring falcon activity in the area. Shenandoah National Park has been working with the College of William & Mary’s Center for Conservation Biology to help reintroduce these birds to the park ecosystem. It was fascinating to learn about these birds of prey. He pointed out the cliff-side hack box that currently houses six falcon chicks. Students find falcons nesting around Williamsburg and Norfolk, grab the babies when they’re a few weeks old and deliver them to SNP for rehoming.

The volunteer feeds the falcon chicks twice per day, giving the birds quail through a slot door in the hack box. The chicks never actually see the person. The goal is to keep the chicks completely unaware of the human intervention.

The feeder told us a funny story about his time on the mountainside. He was on his way to feed the birds that morning when he was charged by a deer. He reached for a slingshot he had in his pocket, but the deer was too close. He ended up using the slingshot as a club and thumping the doe lightly on the head. It just stared at him like he was crazy. He realized as he looked down that he had almost stepped on her newborn fawn.

The volunteer told us that there was a belief that the peregrine falcon pair that we saw was moving over from their established nest site on Old Rag. They have been observing the Old Rag falcons for a while, and are hoping they stay put. If the Old Rag falcons relocate to Hawksbill, the hack box holding the chicks will have to be moved to a new location. The volunteer was trying to read numbers on the bands of the falcons swooping by to see if he could identify them as the same pair from Old Rag.

After a bit more chatting, we left the volunteer and proceeded on to the summit. When we came back to the shelter, we noticed that there were now three falcons swooping around near the summit. We found the volunteer and told him. He told us that seeing the three falcons might help prove that these birds might not be the pair from Old Rag. We felt proud to have been able to provide some useful information for their research.

Christine Says…

It’s kind of ironic, but Adam really didn’t want to go to the park at all on this particular morning. He thought the trails would be sloppy-muddy from all the rain. Also, he was longing for a morning of sleeping in, followed by loafing on the couch and possibly even some video games. But, being the insanely cruel morning person I am, I dragged him out of bed and told him that I wanted to hike Hawksbill. After all was said and done, he ended up declaring this to be “one of our best days in the park ever!”

At the trailhead, Adam lobbied for the shorter out-and-back, but I really wanted to do the longer loop. It’s more scenic and there are many more opportunities to see wildlife along the way. Besides, the out and back is a tough, boring, uphill climb – straight up the side of Hawksbill Mountain. You don’t see anything special – you just climb.

I bet this magnificent buck gets a lot of female attention in the fall. The photo below is another of the bucks from the group.

A quarter mile into the hike, we saw three impressive bucks. Even this early in the season, these guys were already displaying large, velvety racks of antlers. During the summer months, it’s not uncommon to see groups of big bucks hanging out in mini-herds like this. I think they’re planning strategies on how to get the girls in the fall. 🙂 They were completely indifferent to our presence, so we stayed and watched them for a few moments. I wish it hadn’t been so dark in the forest. I would have loved to get some better photos of these handsome guys.

This is the talus slope where we first spotted the peregrine falcons.

Seeing the falcons near the talus slopes was simply amazing. I’ve never seen peregrines so close in the wild before. They’re truly expert aerial acrobats. I also really liked talking to the naturalist at the summit. No matter how much time I spend in the park, I still feel like I see and learn new things on every visit.

Our view at the CCC-established summit was largely obscured by clouds and fog, but it was still a beautiful, breezy day. Hawksbill gives full views in every direction. You get a nice look at Skyline Drive winding its way through the forest and a wonderful, distant view of magnificent Old Rag Mountain. Hawksbill Mountain actually has four excellent viewpoints along the summit. You only see two on the out and back hike. Typically you can see all four on the loop hike, but on this particular day one viewpoint was closed off for the falcons.

Although you can't tell in the photo, the trail back down Hawksbill Mountain is quite steep. — Although it’s relatively level here, the trail back down Hawksbill Mountain is quite steep.

The hike back down is pretty steep, but the trail is well-maintained and covered with gravel. My knees always ache climbing down Hawksbill – there are no switchbacks to gentle the grade. It’s straight down the mountainside. Hikers should be careful to follow the correct trail back down the mountain! There are trails leading back to Upper Hawksbill and Lower Hawksbill parking lots. There is also a fire road. If you don’t pay attention to the cement marking posts, you may end up on the wrong trail and have an extra mile or so of hiking to do along Skyline Drive to make it back to your car. We saw a couple who had made that exact mistake walking along the road when we finished our hike. They didn’t look too happy.

Trail Notes

Distance – 2.9 mile loop. A 1.7 mile strenuous out-and-back is one option, but the loop is recommended for it’s scenic beauty and wildlife viewing potential.
Elevation Change – 800 ft
Difficulty – 1.5. If you do the loop. The out and back may be shorter, but it’s more strenuous.
Trail Conditions – 4. The AT portion is well-maintained. The trail down from the summit is covered with small gravel.
Views – 4. The view from the summit is impressive on a clear day.
Waterfalls/streams – 0. No streams on this trail.
Wildlife – 4. We did hit some great luck this day, but we saw several deer including three bucks and you have some decent chances of spotting peregrine falcons in the summer.
Ease to Navigate – 3. There are a couple turns, but the directions are well-marked on cement posts. Pay attention on your way back down the mountain. There are several descents to choose from.
Solitude – 2. The hike is fairly popular and featured often with SNP handouts, but we never seem to run into many people up there. I hear the summit gets very crowded on pleasant weekend afternoons.

Directions to trailhead:

Park at the Hawksbill Gap parking lot which is located around mile marker 45.6 in the Central Section of Skyline Drive. The trail can be done as an out-and-back hike taking a steep trail to the summit, but we recommend that instead of going straight up to the summit, take the spur trail to the Appalachian Trail and follow the signs to the Hawksbill Summit.