Table Rock (WV)

The drive to the trailhead is probably tougher than the actual hike, but this 2.4 mile out-and-back in the Canaan Backcountry has spectacular views and is well worth the bumpy ride to get to the trail’s start!

Christine on Table Rock
Table Rock has great views of the valley. Below: When the weather has been wet, there are several muddy sections to cross (it was quite dry when we visited); Later this summer, the rocks will be covered with blueberries.

Muddy Crossing Blueberry Blooms

Adam Says…

This hike was definitely one of those pleasant surprises you find once in a while.  We have been going to Canaan Valley for years (my wife has been going since she was a kid) and we never knew about this great place for hiking that was just a short distance from where we always stay.  I’ve driven by the Canaan Loop Road and thought to myself, “I wonder where that road goes.”  If I had known earlier that it led to this area of hiking, we would have tried this out a long time ago.

We had picked up the Day & Overnight Hikes: West Virginia’s Monongahela National Forest book a couple of years ago and have done a few of the hikes before.  This one led us right to the Canaan Loop Road for this great out-and-back hike.  When we started on the road, we passed by a few houses on the gravel, pothole-laden road and then quickly came upon a school bus parked in the middle of the road, blocking any traffic.  I thought this was odd (and possibly a little like the start to a horror movie), but I didn’t see anyone inside.  I walked up and saw a man about halfway down the bus that was straightening some things up.  I asked if he was moving and he darted up front, started the bus, and gunned it down the road.  We followed the bus for a while, but it was quickly leaving us in the dust kicked up from the gravel road.  After a few miles, we came upon the bus again as it was parking for a scouting group that looked like they were packing up after a large picnic.  We continued past the group on a very bumpy and narrow road that has some precarious edges that you just pray that another car doesn’t come the other way.  We only came across one other vehicle on the road, but I would warn you to be cautious as you make your way along the road and drive slowly.

Thick Rhododendron
The rhododendron along this trail was thick and jungle-like. There were lots of buds, so it should be a pretty bloom this year! Below: Trails are not typically well-marked in the Canaan backcountry; Adam walks through open forest; Crossing another muddy section.

Trailhead Sign Open Forest Mucky

After driving for exactly 10 miles on the Canaan Loop Road, we came to the parking area to the left for Table Rock.  We started down the trail.  The trail is technically blue-blazed, but you will likely only see a few of these blazes on the trees.  The trail is fairly obvious, but I can imagine after the leaves first fall, it could be a little tough to find your way.  The trail starts almost in a jungle of rhododendron, but that quickly opens up to an open forest of larger beech, maple, and birch trees.  The trail stays relatively flat the entire way and there are a few areas of mucky ground or pools.  Rocks and logs have been placed over in some of these to help you traverse, but in some areas after a good rain, you will likely need to get your shoes wet.  After about 1.1 miles, you come across a campsite.  Just ahead is Table Rock.

The outcropping has phenomenal views.  The rocks have crevasses that can be quite deep, so watch where you are stepping and be careful around the edges since there are huge drops below.  Since this place isn’t visited often except by locals, this will be a great off-the-beaten path hike that you can likely enjoy the views all by yourself.  The spruce-covered mountain across the gorge is Green Mountain.   Since this trail is flat, almost anyone could enjoy this hike.

It was quite breezy at the top and I had to hold my hat a few times as the wind picked up.  You can tell that this area does get a lot of wind that funnels quickly through the gorge.  We look forward to coming back to this area sometime soon and visit some of the other trails that crisscross around the Canaan Loop Road.

Christine Says…

Normally when we visit the Canaan Valley area, it’s all about hiking and nature and waterfalls!  This visit was all about… cleaning.  Adam and I agreed to take care of the annual spring cleaning of my parents’ rental property in the area.  In the three days we were there, we scrubbed, scoured, swept and probably did more than 20 loads of laundry.  It wasn’t a fun trip, but we did manage to get out for one short, nearby hike.

I have no idea how the trails off the Canaan Loop Road escaped our notice.  I guess when you’re close to Dolly Sods, Seneca Rocks, and Spruce Knob, other trails fall a bit by the wayside.  But, I’m really glad we took the time to drive the ten bumpy miles to this trailhead.

Greening Up
I love watching green creep up the mountainsides each spring. Below: Lovely trillium, A couple views of Table Rock.

Trillium Table Rock Table Rock

The hike to Table Rock was short, but had a spectacular payoff in terms of views and solitude.  The path led through gorgeous forest, alternating between dense stands of rhododendron and open, mossy forest.  The whole route is flat and easy, so in about 20-30 minutes, you’re already at the overlook.  The rocky shelf stands over a magnificent, undeveloped valley.  When we visited in mid-spring, the emergence of leaves created the effect of green creeping up the mountainsides.  So beautiful!  There were tons of blooming blueberry bushes in the area, too. It would be nice to visit in August and pick berries!

I also enjoyed the Painted Trillium along the trail.  Most of the trillium I see along the trails in Shenandoah is plain white or pink, so seeing a different variety was a nice change of pace.  We were there a little too early to see the rhododendron bloom, but most of the plants were abundant with buds.  It should be really pretty when they finally open!

Trail Notes

  • Distance – 2.4 miles
    (Check out the stats from MapMyHike)*
  • Elevation Change –  195 ft
  • Difficulty – 1. This trail is very flat, so just about anyone could enjoy it.
  • Trail Conditions – 3.5.  The trail isn’t that well-used, but it was still a worn path.  You may have to do a little rock-hopping to make it across some of the larger puddles.
  • Views4. Breathtaking views are clear from this point.  We enjoy not being able to see houses from great viewpoints and you shouldn’t see many signs of civilization from this outcropping.
  • Waterfalls/streams – 0. Non-existent.
  • Wildlife – 2. Other than a few birds, we didn’t see anything on the trail. 
  • Ease to Navigate – 3. There is only one trail on this hike, so there shouldn’t be any confusion.  The only reason to downgrade this is because it is not blazed often at all and in the fall it could be a little challenging to follow the path.
  • Solitude – 5.  We didn’t see anyone on a beautiful weekend day in the afternoon. 

Directions to trailhead:

From Davis, WV, head south on WV 32.  In 3.2 miles, turn right on to Canaan Loop Road (Forest Service Road 13).  Follow the road for exactly 10 miles.  The parking area is on the left and there is a wooden sign that shows the beginning of the trailhead.

* MapMyHike is not necessarily accurate, as the GPS signal fades in and out – but it still provides some fun and interesting information.

Hazel Falls

This easy 5.2-mile hike leads to a beautiful waterfall on the Hazel River.  The falls are surrounded by towering rock walls and a couple small caves.

View the full album of photos from this hike
View a short video clip of Hazel Falls

Wide View of Falls
Hazel Falls are not terribly high, but they sit in a beautiful gorge. Below: Adam at the Meadow Spring trailhead; Little wildflowers grew abundantly along the trail; A great place to enjoy the sun.

Trailhead at Meadow Springs Wildflowers Nice Place to Rest

Christine Says…

Every time I think we’re running out of nearby hikes to complete, we seem to stumble across something that has escaped our notice for one reason or another.  That was just the case with this beautiful, easy walk to Hazel Falls!  Typically, when you think of Shenandoah’s waterfalls, you think of Dark Hollow, White Oak Canyon or Doyles River-Jones Run.  It’s not very common to see photos or hear people talking about Hazel Falls.  After being there in person, I’m not really sure why.  It was a great hike!  Although the falls are not high, I found them to be nicer than some of the park’s more popular falls – I’m looking at you Lewis Springs Falls!  It’s probably spring’s higher water flow,  but this small waterfall was much more impressive than some of the park’s larger falls.

Christine Hiking
The trail was mostly wide and gentle. Below: Adam negotiates the largest blow down on the hike; The junction of the steep rock trail that leads down to the falls/caves; Rock walls tower above the falls.

Navigating Blowdowns Junction to Falls Trail Rock Walls

The hike mostly consisted of pleasant, gentle walking through pretty forest. The last time we hiked in this area was a few years ago when we went on our very first overnight backpacking trip with PATC.  That trip made a loop of Hazel Mountain and Catlett Mountain.  It’s funny – I remembered the trail being a lot steeper than it seemed this time.  I guess I had a heavier pack and wasn’t in very good condition on that trip.

On this particular spring day, I enjoyed seeing all the early season wildflowers blooming along the side of the trail. We had perfect weather – sunny, crisp blue skies and a nice breeze.  It was ideal for hiking, but not so ideal for waterfall photography.  When we finally got down to the falls, I did the best I could to capture a few decent shots under the bright mid-day sun.  It didn’t go that well.

I also really enjoyed the little caves adjacent to the falls and sunning on the big flat rock next to the smaller falls.  It was a gorgeous spot and I’ll look forward to visiting again.

After our hike, we decided to stop by Big Meadows for Shenandoah’s famous blackberry ice cream.  Even though the park has a new concessionaire for food/gift shops, the ice cream was just as good as it’s always been!

Adam Says…

The hike to Hazel Falls was a pleasant surprise.  When looking for hiking suggestions, we typically peruse our hiking guides, study maps, and explore the internet for ideas.  The 2000 edition of the Falcon Guide for Hiking Shenandoah National Park didn’t include Hazel Falls in the book, but the updated 2012 edition does cover it.  So, we have to give thanks to Bert & Jane Gildert, the authors, for including this one for us to explore.  As Christine said, I feel that this is a great waterfall that really allows you to sit down and take in the beauty of the setting around you.

Hazel Falls with Adam
Adam enjoys the falls. Below: Adam makes his way down the steepest part of the trail; Pretty cascades leading away from the falls; Christine at the lower falls, Another view of Hazel Falls.

Climb Down to Falls Smaller Hazel Falls Christine at the Small Lower Hazel Falls Another View of the Falls

The trail starts off from the Meadow Spring Trail parking lot.  This is a popular parking spot for many hikes and overnight backpackers; we have rarely seen this lot not packed with vehicles.  If you are going with a larger group, try to carpool to minimize the number of parking spots you may need.  The good news is that most of the cars will likely be heading down to Buck Hollow or doing larger loops around Hazel and Catlett Mountains.  The trail goes just a few feet before you reach a junction with the Buck Hollow Trail.  Instead of branching off, just stay straight on the trail and walk down the wide path.  The trail is mostly a slight downhill grade with some flatter sections.  At 1.5 miles, you will reach a junction with the White Rocks Trail on the left.  Take the White Rocks Trail.  At 2.4 miles, you will reach a junction post that will direct you to take the trail to the right for the falls.  Climb down the steep trail and you should reach the first, small waterfall at the bottom.  Continue along the path over the rocks and you will reach the larger Hazel Falls and see the cave to the right.  Make your way back the way you came to get back to your vehicle.

Cave Near Hazel Falls
Adam checks out the cave near Hazel Falls. Below: Making the steep climb back up; Blackberry ice cream at Big Meadows wayside

Steep Climb Uphill Shenandoah Blackberry Ice Cream

Because of the uncomplicated, mostly gentle terrain, this might be a great hike to do with older children.  The only strenuous part of the hike was hiking the last .2 miles (the climb down will challenge your knees and the climb back up will get the blood pumping).   You can tell a lot of great trail work has been done to create the stone steps that allow you to climb down without it being too slippery.  The picturesque setting of the falls will encourage you to take some time to relax, eat a snack, and enjoy the sound of rushing water.  The pool at the larger falls could also be one to wade into fairly easily if you like getting your feet wet.

While Christine was busy taking a lot of photos, I enjoyed peeking inside the larger cave near the falls.  Christine took some coaxing to go in, since she was worried that bats would fly out.  I didn’t see any bats inside or guano on the ground, but I wouldn’t be surprised if a couple of them took refuge in the top of the cave on occasion.  At the falls there is also a path that leads to a small rock opening that you can climb around to get closer to the falls.  As I was climbing around there, I saw a bird’s nest tucked in the top of the rocks.  Sure enough, within a few minutes, I saw a bird (I believe a sparrow of some sort) fly into the nest.  I hope too many people don’t disturb the nest and it is able to raise some cute chicks.

I imagine we will go back to Hazel Falls many times in the future.  If you haven’t been here before, this is a waterfall that is worth checking out.

Trail Notes

  • Distance – 5.2 miles
    (Check out the stats from MapMyHike)*
  • Elevation Change –  800 ft
  • Difficulty – 2.  The final .2 mile descent (and climb back out) into the stream gorge is very steep, but the rest of the hike is flat or very gently graded.
  • Trail Conditions – 3.5.  There were a few blow downs that required navigation, but most of the trail is smooth, easy footing.  The descent to the waterfall showcases the great work trail maintainers do in the park.  They turned a extremely steep piece of terrain into a giant staircase with a series of well-placed rocks.
  • Views0.  In the winter and early spring, you may catch some glimpses of mountainsides through the trees.  Otherwise, this walk takes place exclusively in the woods.
  • Waterfalls/streams – 4.  Though the waterfall is not tall, it’s it a lovely setting surrounded by towering rock walls and small caves.
  • Wildlife – 2. We didn’t see anything on this trip, but we have spotted bears and deer in the vicinity on past trips.
  • Ease to Navigate – 4.  Trail directions are clearly marked at junctions with cement markers.
  • Solitude – 2.5. The parking lot was jam-packed on a pretty, sunny Saturday afternoon, but there are lots of trail options in this area.  We saw about 15 people over the course of the hike.

Directions to trailhead:

From Skyline Drive proceed to mile 33.5.  Parking is on the east side of the drive at the Meadow Spring parking area.  The trail descends from the south end of the parking lot.

* MapMyHike is not necessarily accurate, as the GPS signal fades in and out – but it still provides some fun and interesting information.

Fridley Gap Loop

This six-mile loop hike in the Fridley Gap area of George Washington National Forest has everything – views, waterfalls, beautiful stream scenery, rugged climbing and great backcountry camping.  It’s a perfect hike to get away from the crowds in Shenandoah National Park.

View the full album of photos from this hike

Adam at the Overlook
If you miss spotting the faint side trail behind one of the many backcountry campsites along this loop, you’ll miss the best view of the hike! Below: Adam crosses the stream; A small waterfall on the stream; This loop has many choices for backcountry camp sites.

Adam Crossing Fridley Run Smal Waterfall Backcountry Site

Adam Says…

Last year, we made an attempt to do this Fridley Gap loop hike, but we had trouble finding one of the trails.  We bushwhacked for a while, but finally gave up.  This time when we returned, we had better directions and the blazes had recently been repainted on much of the loop.

From the top end of the parking lot, we started on the trail.  We saw both purple and blue blazes early on, and started to worry.  (Fortunately, it turned out that this was the only section of the trail that hadn’t been recently re-blazed.)  Early parts of the trail traverse large rocks, and it’s sometimes tough to see exactly which way the trail goes. We saw faded red Xs painted on the surface of some of the rocks which let us know that we were going the right way.  The trail is uphill but not too steep.  In .2 miles, you come to a fire road.  Take a right here and continue on the fire road.  You will pass by some small falls and Mountain Run to the right and a large boulder slide to the left.  The trail actually follows the streambed, and you will need to rock-hop to continue on.  At .45 miles, you will reach another falls area and you will cross over Mountain Run until you see the trail junction cement post.  This is also the point that Mountain Run and Fridley Run join.  It was at this point that we failed last time trying to find the orange-blazed Massanutten South trail.  Looking at the cement post as you approached it, look back around 4:00.  You will see the orange blazes on the Massanutten South trail as you will cross the water again (this time it is Fridley Run) and climb up the hillside.  These weren’t painted on the trees before (they look fresh now), so you should be able to find your way more easily.

Walking in the Streambed
Early in the hike, the trail traverses the streambed. There are plenty of rocks, so it’s fairly easy to hop from spot to spot and avoid getting your feet wet. Below: Adam climbs up the trail shortly after the parking lot; A rockslide early on the hike; Blooming redbuds.

Adam Hiking Fridley Gap Trail Rock Slide Redbuds Blooming

The climb up the Massanutten South trail is quite steep and you may need to stop a few times along the way to catch your breath.  This trail is also narrow and you may have to cross over a few blown-down trees, but the trail wasn’t too hard to navigate with the recent re-blazing.  At 1.85 miles, you will reach a campsite area.  Look closely and you will see a path that leads to a rock outcropping called Grubbs Knob Overlook.  Take this path up to the overlook to get the best views along the hike.   You will see the top of Grubbs Knob to the left from the overlook and views to the west.  After taking in the view, go back to the campsite and continue along the Massanutten South trail.  At 2.05 miles, the trail reaches its peak and then you will start to descend, as the trail takes a steep turn to the left.  You will make your way back down this very narrow path and cross Fridley Run at 2.70 miles.

After crossing Fridley Run, you will begin to ascend on the trail again (turning again into a wider fire road) until you reach a rocky slide that gives you views of Fridley Gap and North Mountain at 3.25 miles.  Continue to ascend as you walk around part of Third Mountain. The fire road stops ascending at 3.5 miles.  The trail then descends and you reach another cement junction post at 3.84 miles.  Take a left on the purple-blazed Fridley Gap trail, which follow another wide fire road.  You will likely see lots of burned trees from a fire in 2010 that covered a big portion of this area.  At 4.5 miles, you will reach another junction. The purple-blazed Fridley Gap trail ascends to the left and continues through the woods.  Take this trail and begin a steep ascent across some switchbacks.  At 4.85 miles, you will reach the top of your climb and there are a few stones that you can rest on for a few minutes if you need to catch your breath.

Christine at the Small Waterfall
This small waterfall feeds one of the most popular swimming holes in the area. Below: More pretty cascades.

Mountain Run

The trail now begins to descend very steeply.  We were so glad we had our trekking poles since the rocks under the leaves were often loose and it helped to lower ourselves down the steep steps.  We were also glad we did this hike this direction rather than the clockwise version of the loop.  At 5.5 miles, we reached another junction with the Massanutten South trail.  Take a left on the orange and purple-blazed fire road (don’t go the way that crosses the bridge) and you will reach the junction that closes the loop at 5.65 miles.  Take a right here, crossing Mountain Run again and make your way back down the fire road.  Be sure to catch the rocky path at 5.8 miles that leads back to the parking lot at 6 miles.

A funny moment happened along the hike.  Christine had programmed her phone to use the MapMyHike app.  In a recent upgrade, it now includes some vocal updates along the way, usually at the mile increments.  One time, we heard the voice say “Don’t stop now.  Walgreen’s is behind you.”  (Walgreen’s is now advertising on MapMyHike.)  While this is meant to be a word of encouragement to keep hiking strong, I was thinking of it as “Walgreen’s is chasing us.”  As I sometimes do, I started thinking of a parody song to the tune of the Road Runner Show TV theme song.  So for your enjoyment, here are my lyrics: “Fridley hiker, Walgreen’s is after you. Fridley hiker, if he catches you, you’re through.  That Walgreen’s is really a crazy store.  They have pharmaceuticals, toiletries, and so much more.  Fridley hiker, never, never, never slow down.  Fridley hiker. Walgreen’s is after you.  Fridley hiker.  If he catches you, you’re through.

There is one geocache along the trail, Fridley’s Cache, a normal-sized cache near the swimming hole.

It is always a good feeling to know that we redeemed ourselves by covering a hike that we had previously failed to navigate.  If you are looking for good views of streams or a swimming hole, along with a challenging hike to get some views, this may be a great hike to try out some time.

Rocks at Grubbs Overlook
The rocks at Grubbs Overlook might trick people into thinking there isn’t an open view. Below: Views from Grubbs Overlook and the campsite that sits adjacent to the overlook.

View from Grubbs Adam at Grubbs
A View Into the Valley
Campsite at the Grubbs Overlook

Christine Says…

Hallelujah for freshly painted blazes!  I was so frustrated last year when our attempt to hike the Fridley Gap Loop ended in failure.  The failure was mostly my fault.  I tried to map out the hike based on a course I saw on someone’s Runkeeper page.  There were no directions, just the route overlaid on a rudimentary map of the area.  I thought we’d be able to figure things out on our own with a NatGeo map of the area.  It turns out that faded blazes and a large group of people camping in the middle of the trail are insurmountable challenges to my ability to navigate.  We’ll let bygones be bygones and get on to the successful version of our Fridley Gap hike.

Let me start by saying, I loved this hike!  It was even better than I expected.  The stream was running beautifully, the views of the valley ‘greening up’ below were lovely and the weather was perfect (sunny, cool and breezy enough to keep the bugs away).  I really enjoyed the little rock-hop as the trail followed the stream bed.  The small waterfall and swimming hole were so pretty.

The climb up the Massanutten South trail to Grubbs Knob was steep enough to be challenging, but not so steep that we had to stop for a breather.  On the way up, we could see all the little signs of spring creeping back into the forest – tiny buds on trees, tightly curled ferns and the occasional early season wildflower poking up through the leaves.  The overlook at Grubbs Knob is rather easy to miss.  It lies at the top of a faint footpath above a campsite.  When you first climb to the top of the footpath, vertical, spine-like plates of rock obstruct any possibility for a view.  But if you climb along the rocks, eventually you come to a few footholds that allow you to scramble to the top of the rocks.  Once you’re there, the valley below spreads out as far as the eye can see – farms dotted with red barns; small country towns; and wide, green fields make up most of the vista.

Downhill Through Dense Laurel
The climb downhill after Grubbs Knob takes you through dense mountain laurel. The harsh light makes for an ugly photo… but you get the idea.  Below: Adam approaches the stream; Crossing Fridley Run.

Approaching Fridley Run Crossing the Stream Again

After leaving the Grubbs Overlook, we ascended a few more moments before taking a sharp downhill turn.  The trail passed through dense mountain laurel, with occasional peeks toward the next ridgeline.  Eventually, we heard the sound of water again.  For a short way, the trail followed Fridley Run.  But soon, we had to cross the stream and head back uphill along a wide fire road.  From the fire road, we caught our second open viewpoint of the hike.  It was a nice view, but nowhere nearly as lovely as the one from Grubbs Overlook.  It’s one thing to slog uphill and come to a magnificent rocky outcropping with a sweeping vista to appreciate.  It’s a little less stirring to stop along a roadside and take in a view of a couple mountain ridges.

Eventually, the fire road met up at a four-way trail junction.  One direction headed toward the Boones Run shelter, another toward Cub Run Road, another continued along the Fridley Gap trail in the direction of Martins Bottom, and of course the fourth headed back in the direction from which we arrived.  Seeing this junction made me think of all the different ways these trails cross and connect.  There are definitely multiple possibilities for overnight backpacking loops in this area.

Second Overlook
The second overlooks comes at a spot along the fire road. Below: Adam checks out the map at this four-way trail junction; Continuing along the fire road before our climb up Third Mountain; Charred trees from the 2010 fire.

Four-way Junction Hiking Along the Fire Road Charred Trees

We followed the fire road to another junction.  Heading straight would have taken us toward Martins Bottom, but to stay on course we turned left and started very steeply uphill along the purple-blazed Fridley Gap trail.   By this point of the hike, I was pretty hungry and my energy was starting to flag.  If I were smarter, I would have eaten a snack before tackling the climb.  But I’m not smart, so I spent most of the climb complaining that I was hungry!

After a short break (and snack) atop the tree-covered peak of Third Mountain, we began a crazy-steep descent.  For three-quarters of a mile, we carefully picked our way down the craggy, leaf covered mountainside.  Through the trees, we could see some really fascinating rock formations on the shoulder of the next mountain over.  I kept trying to appreciate the view, but every time I did, I lost my footing a bit.  This climb down definitely makes the case for paying attention and using your trekking poles.

Steep Uphill Over Third Mountain
The ascent of Third Mountain may not look steep in this photo, but it is!  Below: Descending Third Mountain – you can see rock formations through the trees; A bridge not taken on the Massanutten trail; Adam once again crosses the stream we crossed early in our hike.

Steep Descent of Third Mountain Bridge on Massanutten Trail Final Stream Crossing

At the bottom of Third Mountain, we had just a short walk back to our original junction – the one where everything went wrong when we tried to hike Fridley Gap last year!  I was quite pleased to see that marker again and be 100% certain that we had actually found our way successfully this time around.  From the last junction, we retraced our steps through the streambed, past the rockslide and back to our car.

Trail Notes

  • Distance – 6 miles
    (Check out the stats from MapMyHike)*
  • Elevation Change –  1850 ft
  • Difficulty – 3.5.  The trail goes up and down several times. 
  • Trail Conditions – 3.  The trail had blowdowns, loose conditions, and narrowness, but there were also sections that followed a fireroad.  It gets an overall average rating. 
  • Views3.  The views from the Grubbs Knob overlook are the best on the trail, but if you miss the path from the campsite you’ll miss the best view on the loop.  The views along the path at 3.25 miles are nice, but not remarkable.
  • Waterfalls/streams – 4. The trail goes along (and through) Mountain Run and Fridley Run on several occasions.  The small falls and swimming hole gives it a bonus. 
  • Wildlife – 2. This may be a good hike for bird watching.  We saw a peregrine falcon soaring above at the Grubbs Knob overlook and enjoyed hearing the song of the eastern towhee along the way.
  • Ease to Navigate2.  If we got lost before, we have to give this a low rating.  The path to start the trail from the parking lot could be better blazed and there are several turns to make.
  • Solitude – 4.  You may see some people at the swimming hole or camping alongside the junction with Mountain Run and Fridley Run.  However, we only saw one other group after this point on a nice spring weekend day. 

Directions to trailhead:

From Harrisonburg, VA, head east on 33.  Take a left onto VA-620 North/Indian trail Road and continue for 1.7 miles.  The road will turn into Rt. 717.  Go 3.4 miles and take a right on Minie Ball Ln.  Go 1.1 miles.  At this point, the road will turn back into Rt. 620.  Go 2.7 miles and take a right, continuing on 620 for about half a mile.  Take a right onto Armentrout Path.  Take the first left onto Airey Ln.  Parking is a lot at the end of this gravel lane.  If you pass the lot, you are on private property. The directions to this trailhead are a little confusing, and we recommend putting the coordinates on the map below into your phone/GPS.

* MapMyHike is not necessarily accurate, as the GPS signal fades in and out – but it still provides some fun and interesting information.

High Knob & Hoover Ridge

This 5.75 mile hike takes you to an old fire tower sitting atop a high peak on the border of West Virginia and Virginia.  After visiting the tower, you can either head back to the parking area (which would cut the distance and make this a 3 mile total round-trip hike), or continue to explore the Shenandoah Mountain trail with a walk over to Hoover Ridge.

SPECIAL NOTES:  Please be conscientious and respectful when hiking in this area. Hiking trails near High Knob are adjacent to private land. Please honor posted ‘no trespassing’ signs and stay on official forest service trails.  Please do not tamper with posted private land signage.

High Knob Fire Tower
The High Knob Fire Tower provides panoramic views into both Virginia and West Virginia. Below: Adam looks at trail information in the kiosk in the parking area; The Shenandoah Mountain Trail is often lined with dense mountain laurel; Trail junction – one way climbs up the fire tower, another continues on the Shenandoah Mountain trail, and the third descends to the Brandywine Recreation area.

Parking Areas for High Knob Trail Dense Mountain Laurel Along High Knob Trail Trail Junction on Shenandoah Mountain Trail

View a 30 second video of the panoramic view from the High Knob fire tower.

Christine Says…

First of all, I’m not sure whether to call this a Virginia hike or a West Virginia hike.  While you park in West Virginia, the Shenandoah Mountain trail meanders right along the states’ borderline.  I believe the High Knob fire tower sits on the Virginia side of the line, but views look out into both states.  This is definitely a hike worth doing!

Our first attempt to hike High Knob was on April 7th, 2013.  That hike started off well enough, but within the first half mile the trail turned into a veritable luge track.  It was a smooth, slick, well-polished chute of ice!  Had we planned more extensively, we would have packed Yaktrax, but after a week of warm, sunny weather, we simply didn’t expect to see so much ice!  We watched a couple on the trail ahead of us falling down, over and over and over again.  The girl literally fell ten times in about two minutes.  She couldn’t make a single step of forward progress.  Adam and I looked at each other and said ‘Nah… we’ll come back and do this some other time.”

Mountain Laurel is Getting Ready to Blook
Fetterbush is blooming!  Below: Trails are marked with a double yellow blaze; Occasionally views opened up through the trees.

Yellow Blazes on Shenandoah Mountain Trail Views Along the Shenandoah Mountain Trail

The very next weekend, we headed back and ended up with much better hiking conditions.  The trail to High Knob is pretty basic – it follows the Shenandoah Mountain trail until a junction with a spur trail that leads directly to the tower.  The way is well marked with double yellow blazes and has nice footing.  The path passes through dense stands of mountain laurel.  From the number of flower buds on the laurel, it looks like it’s going to be a spectacular bloom this year!

About .8 mile into the hike, we reached the junction – hikers can turn uphill and take the spur trail to the fire tower, continue on the Shenandoah Mountain trail, or head downhill to the Brandywine Recreation Area.  We decided to visit the fire tower first, mainly because it was early and we wanted to avoid Sunday afternoon hiking crowds.  The spur to the High Knob tower is probably the steepest climbing of the entire hike.  While the section is steep, it’s also fairly short.  At the top of the climb, the trail comes out on a fire road that leads pretty much the rest of the way up to the tower. We were surprised how heavily the area was marked with ‘Private Land – No Trespassing’ warnings.  There were dozens of signs and trees spray-painted red.  I’m guessing the public land abuts private land that is heavily used for hunting, and the landowners are trying to protect hikers/bikers from getting shot.  Regardless, the area is very thoroughly and clearly marked – you shall not pass!

As we arrived at the fire tower, we passed a foursome of hikers headed down.  We had the tower all to ourselves for about twenty minutes.  We enjoyed the views in every direction!  I especially enjoyed looking down on Switzer Lake.  It brought back lots of memories from my days as a college student at JMU.  On warm spring days, my sorority would load up in cars and make the drive to Switzer for an afternoon of swimming (and perhaps some beverage consumption).  Swimming is no longer allowed in the lake (maybe it was never allowed?), as it’s used as a public water source.  Even though you can’t swim in the lake, it’s still a great place for scenery and birding.  A friend of mine has even seen bald eagles at Switzer!

Steep Climb on High Knob Spur Trail
Adam makes the steep climb between the Shenandoah Mountain trail and the fire road that leads to the High Knob Fire Tower. Below: Private land in the area is very thoroughly and clearly marked. A bird’s eye view of the private land from the fire tower.  I think those might be hunting camps/blinds.

Marked Private Land View of Private Land Approaching the Fire Tower

After enjoying the views and eating a snack, we climbed back down to the junction.  It was around 11:15 a.m. and we were torn – do we continue to explore Shenandoah Mountain or do we call it a day and get a nice lunch in Harrisonburg?  We didn’t have a coin, so Adam flipped his pass-case – card side up, we hike on – card side down, we go home.  The pass-case dictated a longer hike.

We followed the Shenandoah Mountain trail over to Hoover Ridge.  If I were to make a recommendation, I would tell people to skip this part of the hike.  In the end, the views weren’t worth the climb. The trail is narrow – too narrow to ever be level.  You hike most of the way with your uphill foot much higher than your downhill foot.  It’s also covered with tons of loose stone and slate that shifts under every step.  On the early spring day we hiked, the trail was still under a foot of dry leaves.  The footing was treacherous.  I was so glad for my trekking poles.

There are several steep climbs on the way to Hoover Ridge.  Once the trail meets the ridge walking along is pretty pleasant. The terrain is open and grassy and there are obstructed views of mountains in every direction.  You can even catch a glimpse of the fire tower off in the distance.  On Hoover Ridge, we decided we’d hiked enough for the day and turned back to make our return to the parking area.

Since it was mostly downhill, the walk went quickly.  We were back at our car by 1:15 and back in Harrisonburg for lunch a half hour later.  It was a great day to be out hiking after such a cold and snowy March!  We’ll definitely make a return hike to the fire tower… Hoover Ridge, not so much.

Adam Says…

As Christine mentioned, this was a second attempt at High Knob, since it was too ice-covered to walk up previously.  We hate having to bail on a hike, but we want to feel that it is something we can accomplish and still enjoy.  We’re glad that we waited for the snow to melt to enjoy this trek up to the fire tower.  Our friends at Hiking Upward covered this hike from the Brandywine Recreation Area, but this is a shorter way to accomplish the hike up to the top.  If you’ve purchased National Geographic’s Staunton/Shenandoah Mountain Trails Illustrated Map 791, you will see High Knob Fire Tower on the cover.

Christine Enjoys the Fire Tower View
Views from the fire tower look out in every direction. Below: You can see Switzer Lake from the fire tower; More views; Adam enjoys a snack (Trader Joe’s Monkey Business trail mix) on the fire tower.

Switzer Lake Views from the High Knob Fire Tower Enjoying a Snack on the Fire Tower

From the parking lot on 33, we took off down the stone steps.  The parking lot and surrounding areas has a lot of trash thrown around, so if you can, bring a trashbag and help to carry out some of the litter.  Once you join the Shenandoah Mountain trail at the bottom of the stone steps, the trail will be clear of litter.  The trail starts off fairly level and then gradually ascends up the mountain.  In .85 miles, you do reach a large junction that includes the spur trail to the High Knob Tower.  Take this spur trail up the mountain.  At about 1.1 miles, you will reach a forest road.  Take a right on the road (taking a left will put you on private land) and continue to follow the signs to the High Knob Tower.  Continue your ascent up the fire road until you reach the High Knob Tower at 1.4 miles.

We retraced our steps until we returned back to the junction of the Shenandoah Mountain Trail and High Knob Trail at 2.0 miles.  At this point, we took a left to get back on the Shenandoah Mountain trail.  This part of the trail was not well-maintained and we were constantly worried about turning our ankles on loose rocks that were hidden underneath the leaf-covered trail, crossing over tree blowdowns, or catching ourselves from falling off the narrow trail with our trekking poles.  The trail in most places along this section felt more like a narrow animal path than an actual trail.  The rough trail and the steepness in some sections really made us question how far we were going and if it was worth it. We made our way a little further uphill but we weren’t fighting rough terrain the whole way.  We reached the crest of Hoover Ridge at 3.5 miles, which gave us some obstructed views of the areas to the south.  After taking a few minutes to explore the open fields and campsites on Hoover Ridge, we made our way back.

Shenandoah Mountain Trail Cairn
One of the few tricky spots on the Shenandoah Mountain trail. The cairn indicates that hikers should take the lower trail, and not follow the trail partially blocked by branches. Below: Sign on Hoover Ridge

Signage on Hoover Ridge 

 

As Christine stated, I would agree that I probably wouldn’t add on Hoover Ridge to this hike unless you would like to get some extra hiking accomplished.  However, this was also the area that we saw the best wildlife.  We saw a deer in the distance take off when we were spotted and a grouse jumped out of some brush when we were walking by that caused us both to nearly jump out of our hiking shoes.

The hike up to High Knob is one that I think would be a perfect hike if your goal was to see great views from all directions. On a clear day, you should be able to see several layers of mountain ranges.  I’m sure the foliage scenery in the fall is breathtaking.  I can see this being a great hike to take some out-of-town visitors to show the splendor of the rolling Virginia and West Virginia mountains.

Trail Notes

  • Distance – About 5.75 miles
  • Elevation Change –  1168 ft
  • Difficulty – 3.5. This is a moderate hike in terms of elevation change.  On the day we hiked, the Shenandoah Mountain trail was still covered with deep, slick leaves and quite a few fallen trees.  These challenges increased the difficulty level somewhat.
  • Trail Conditions – 3.  The trail to High Knob is in great shape, but the Shenandoah Mountain trail is narrow and rocky.
  • Views5.  Views from the High Knob fire tower are spectacular and panoramic.  Views from Hoover Ridge are obstructed.
  • Waterfalls/streams – 0. There are no streams on this hike.
  • Wildlife – 2. We saw a deer and a grouse, but I think hunters scare off most wildlife in this area.
  • Ease to Navigate –3. Trails are generally well-marked/blazed, but there are a few mildly confusing spots on the walk to Hoover Ridge. There were a few worn paths in the woods that looked like old trails or animal paths.  As long as you still to the most well-worn pathway, you should be fine. Take care to observe posted signs for private land.
  • Solitude –2.  You will likely see quite a few people on the walk to the fire tower, but few along the way to Hoover Ridge.

Directions to trailhead:

Head on 33 West from Harrisonburg, VA.  In about 10 miles, you will enter into George Washington National Forest.  In 12 more miles, you will reach the parking lot on the left right after you see the “Welcome to West Virginia” sign.  A large kiosk with a map of the area gives some general information and you will see a break in the girders that will lead down to start your hike.

* MapMyHike is not necessarily accurate, as the GPS signal fades in and out – but it still provides some fun and interesting information.

Cirith Ungol

This 8 mile hike is one that very few people would ever dare to undertake.  Up the stairs you will climb until you reach a tunnel.

cirith ungol
Scenery along the way!

Christine Says…

Last week, we did a trip to Ohio and Adam made the mistake of leaving his wedding ring in the hotel room.  So, we decided to go back and reclaim the ring in order for him to stay out of the doghouse for a while.

The morning was quite gloomy and there was a fell stench upon the air.  We talked to a few people about the quickest way to Ohio and they suggested that we take the pass of Cirith Ungol.  After reading about the stairs that lead to the pathway, we thought we would undertake it.  We had a great breakfast at the Inn of the Prancing Pony and then a couple of oranges for second breakfast, but we didn’t pack anything other than lembas bread for elevensies, lunch, or afternoon tea.

Adam Says…

I felt like an idiot for leaving my precious in the land of Ohio, where the shadows lie.  I threw on my backpack, with a few links of sausage tied to the top and we made our way.

SoCU004
Scenery along the way!

The beginning of the hike was harrowing as we had a huge number of stairs to climb.  There was a heavy, dark storm cloud above us, but luckily I had packed my Star of Elendil to help light the way.  We climbed up, up, up the stairs for about 3 miles until it reached a tunnel.  The tunnel was a labyrinth filled with spider webs.  We suggest at the junctions, you go left, left, right, left, left, circle, square, circle, L1, R1, select to make your way through.  The spiders there were larger than ourselves, but Christine made it through OK.  I got wrapped in some spider threads and ended up looking like I was wrapped in Ramen noodles for a while, but Christine pulled me out of the webs and we made our way.

STf-Trapped19a
Scenery along the way!

Eagles carried us back to our vehicle when everything was done.

Trail Notes

  • Distance –8 miles.
  • Elevation Change –  1000 feet
  • Difficulty –5. The trail is extremely steep and slippery up the stairs.
  • Trail Conditions – 1.  Only fools travel here.
  • Views3.  There would be nice views, but based on the evil that lies nearby, it was too dark to see much of anything.
  • Waterfalls/streams – 0. None
  • Wildlife – 4. We found some very large spiders in the tunnel.
  • Ease to Navigate –1. The tunnel is very hard to navigate.
  • Solitude –5.  Like I said, nobody would do this that didn’t have to.

Directions to trailhead:

Park at Minas Morgul and you will see the stairs directly across from the parking lot.

towerofcirithungol

Big Flat Mountain Loop

This 4.7 mile hike makes a wide circle around the entire Loft Mountain complex.  It starts at the wayside and makes use of three different trails in the area – the campground path, the Appalachian Trail and the Frazier Discovery Trail.

Christine and Wookie enjoy a view along the AT.
Christine and Wookie enjoy a view along the AT.  Below: Wookie enjoyed his outing.

Wookie and Adam on Campground Path Wookie in the Snow Thanksgiving Portrait

Christine Says…

So… it’s been a while since our last post.  We’ve been sitting on photos and information about our Thanksgiving hike for over two months now.  Things got a bit chaotic with the holidays (travel/family obligations),  I was sick for a full six weeks, and worst of all we lost one of our pugs (13-year old Mojo) after a short, tough, twelve-week battle with cancer.  Things finally feel like they’re getting back to normal again, and we’re hoping to spend some more time on the trail this winter.  Maybe even a snowshoeing trip?

Thanksgiving this year was a warm, delightful, sunny day.  I was at the tail end of being sick , so I waffled back and forth – relax on the couch watching the parade and dog show; or get up, get dressed and go for a hike.  In the end, the beauty of the day pushed me in the direction of Shenandoah National Park.  I wanted a shorter/easier hike without much climbing, so we settled on the Big Flat Mountain Loop. This loop encircles the Loft Mountain complex.  Here’s a bit of trivia – the campground complex is not actually on Loft Mountain – it’s on Big Flat Mountain – hence the name we’ve given this hike.  It’s also the same hike I chose for my annual Father’s Day hike last June.

We started off at the wayside and made our way up the crumbling, but still (technically) paved, campground path.  The path parallels the road, about 10-15 feet into the woods.  There were lots of downed trees and branches across the path that had fallen recently.  Wookie enjoyed getting his leash tangled in just about every obstacle.

The camp store stands quiet during the off season.
The camp store stands quiet during the off season. Below: The view from behind the amphitheater; The Loft Mountain Campground Amphitheater.

View from Behind the Amphitheater Amphitheater

We eventually came up to the camp store/laundry, which was closed for the season.  We let Wookie eat some snow and took a few minutes to consult our map to make a few more route decisions.  From there, we crossed the road and made our way toward the amphitheater.  The amphitheater has a fabulous view of the valley below.  It’s definitely worth a short stop along the way.

Near the amphitheater, we picked up the access trail for the AT.  After a short walk, we turned onto the Appalachian Trail, heading north.  The trail makes its way behind the Loft Mountain campground.  There are wonderful cliff-side views to the east and several spur trails lead to campsites and the camp store.  After passing the campground, there is a short downhill followed by the one semi-steep climb of the loop.  This climb, which normally would have been quite easy, almost killed me with my diminished aerobic capacity  It always amazes me how quickly one can get out of shape!

At the top of the climb, you’ll pass the first junction of the Frazier Discovery Trail.  If you take this junction, you miss two of the nicest views on the hike.  Continue a short way north, passing two spectacular views to the west.  The prominent sloping peak in the distance is Massanutten.  At the last view, you’ll see the other arm of the Frazier Discovery Trail.  Follow this trail (unless you have a dog with you!) back to the bottom of the mountain and the wayside.  If you do have a dog with you, you should continue north on the Appalachian Trail for almost another mile until you reach the spur trail to the Ivy Creek maintenance hut.  Follow that trail back down to the road/wayside.

I bring the issue of dogs up primarily because we got in trouble for using a short section of the Frazier Discovery Trail on the return arm of the loop.  The trail was marked ‘no pets’ – but only at the bottom of the mountain.  The spot we entered, at the top of the mountain – along the ridge, was not marked.  A ranger stopped us in the wayside parking lot and gave us a warning.

It was a nice way to spend the holiday!

Adam Says…

Christine and I both handle our festivities for Thanksgiving differently than most people.  We don’t do a large Thanksgiving dinner with the huge bird, cranberry sauce, stuffing, and all the other side dishes.  There is no pumpkin pie or a pulling of a ceremonial wishbone.  Instead, we have homemade pizza.  Christine isn’t a huge fan of turkey, so we have decided to have something that we both enjoy.  We also have started the tradition the last few years of starting the day off with a hike.  I definitely feel the touch of a higher presence when I’m communing with nature and there is no better setting to reflect on what I am thankful for in my life.

There were quite a few trees fallen across the trail.
There were quite a few trees fallen across the trail. Below: Adam walks along the Appalachian Trail; Views along the hike.

Walking the AT Views Near the Campground More Views

With pug in tow, we parked at the Lost Mountain wayside and restaurant.  There were only a few cars up here, which is typical of Thanksgiving and some of the colder months, so we knew we were in for a quiet hike.  We crossed the road and on the northern end of the parking lot and made our way on the paved walk .  After .1 mile, you reach a junction with the Frazier Discovery Trail, but stay on the paved walk.  The path is mostly paved or gravel.  We did have to hurdle or duck under a few blown trees across the path.   Around 1.6 miles, you reach the Loft Mountain Camp Store.  From here, we crossed the road and continued on the walkway for .1 mile to reach the Amphitheater.  They really picked a gorgeous spot for this structure, since you’ll have marvelous views.  I can only imagine watching the sunset during a ranger program for all the people camping overnight.

From the Amphitheater, the path begins to go downhill.  At 2.1 miles, you’ll reach a junction with the white-blazed Appalachian Trail.  Head left (going north) from this junction, going uphill along the AT.  At 2.4 miles, the AT begins to level out somewhat as you will navigate around the Loft Mountain campground.  You may smell hotdogs cooking and see glimpses of people and tents through the trees.  You will pass a few spur trails that serve as access for campers to the AT, but stay on the trail.   The trail stays fairly level for a while.  At 3.6 miles, you will reach the first junction with the Frazier Discovery Trail.  Stay straight on the AT and you will come to your first great view past the junction.  Continue on the AT and at 3.8 miles, you will reach the second junction with the Frazier Discovery Trail.  Take a left on this trail and you will immediately come up to another view.  Follow this steep downhill path and at 4.6 miles, you will reach the junction again with the paved walk.  Take a right and you will return to your vehicle at 4.7 miles.

Thanksgiving day view in Shenandoah National Park.
Thanksgiving day view in Shenandoah National Park. Below: Cliffside on the Frazier Discovery Trail.

Cliffsides on Frazier Discovery Trail

So, as we were hiking along, we typically like to reflect with one another for what we are thankful for.  We both were reflecting how thankful we were for each other, our family, our dogs, our jobs, our health, and our ability to share our love for the outdoors together.  Our hearts were a little more somber this day, since we had just recently received the bad prognosis for Mojo.  We’ve had him for most of the time we’ve been married and we give so much love to our pets, that are key members of our family.  We have lost Mojo since then, but he is forever in our hearts and we know he is in a more pleasant place now.   Hiking is a large metaphor for life, as you have some steps that are harder than others and stumbles along the way.  We have our love in our hearts to serve as our trekking poles to keep us balanced and help us reach the vistas along the way.

Wookie Says...Wookie Says…

I have to say… this was not one of my better hikes.  I accidentally broke SNP’s rules, and I feel really bad about it.  But, in my defense, if the park doesn’t want dogs on a certain trail, they really should mark it ‘No Pets’ at both the start and the end of the trail.  Because I entered the Frazier Discovery from the AT, I had no idea I wasn’t allowed to be there. The only sign indicating the rules was posted at the bottom of the mountain – way at the other end of the trail. Thankfully, the park ranger at the Loft Mountain wayside let me go with a warning.  I also came home with THIRTEEN ticks, even though I use a preventative.  Hopefully, I won’t get Lyme disease again. Despite the challenges and pitfalls, I still enjoyed being out on the trail.

Trail Notes

  • Distance – 4.7 miles.
  • Elevation Change –  675 feet
  • Difficulty – 1.5. The trail is gentle and rolling with only a couple very moderate climbs and descents.
  • Trail Conditions – 4.  The trail was in excellent shape.  There was a little snow still on the ground in a few spots, but nothing that caused us trouble. 
  • Views4.  There are many excellent views to both the east and west along this hike.
  • Waterfalls/streams – 0. None
  • Wildlife – 3. We didn’t see anything on this hike, but there are bears, deer, birds and other small creatures in the vicinity.
  • Ease to Navigate –3. You’ll have several different options for turns on this loop,  but as long as you don’t go south instead of north on the Appalachian Trail, you shouldn’t get lost.
  • Solitude –2.  The trails in this area are heavily trafficked, so expect to see other hikers.

Directions to trailhead:

Park at the Loft Mountain Wayside at Skyline Drive mile marker 79.5. Walk north along the drive for a 150 yard and then cross the drive to pick up the fire road. The trailhead is almost directly across the drive from the Patterson Ridge trail.

* MapMyHike is not necessarily accurate, as the GPS signal fades in and out – but it still provides some fun and interesting information.

Rough Ridge (NC)

 

North Carolina Hikes

Rough Ridge is a short hike that leads to wonderful views of Grandfather Mountain, the Linn Cove Viaduct and the valley below.

Christine Enjoying the Rough Ridge View
Rough Ridge is a great place to enjoy an autumn view. Below: A glimpse of the Blue Ridge Parkway below Rough Ridge; A series of boardwalks protects fragile ecology;  Christine’s hair shows the windy conditions.

A View of the Blue Ridge Parkway from Rough Ridge  Rough Ridge Boardwalks WIndy Rough Ridge

Christine Says…

After we finished our short hike around the Linn Cove Viaduct, we drove a short distance north on the Blue Ridge Parkway to hike Rough Ridge.  This short hike is one of the Parkway’s most popular – understandably, because the views are truly breathtaking.  The trail starts with a small series of log stairs that climb steeply into the woods.  Shortly after the steps, there is a small footbridge over a chasm.  Perhaps in wetter conditions, a small stream might flow under the bridge.  When we visited it was dry.

The trail climbs uphill for about .3 mile, across muddy and rocky trail, until it reaches a series of boardwalks.  The wooden pathways are intended to keep hikers off the fragile terrain.  This part of the parkway is home to numerous rare species, and careless footsteps can do all sorts of damage.  From the rocks beside the boardwalk, hikers are treated to a wonderful panoramic view of the scenery.  The viaduct is almost always visible off in the distance.

After leaving the boardwalks, the trail continues a little more steeply uphill.  There are more rocks to climb and more mud to traverse.  At the top, you’ll reach a giant, sheer-faced boulder with a line of affixed cable.  Use the cable to pull yourself to the top of the boulder.  You’ll be treated to another amazing view. The impressive face of Grandfather Mountain looms above and pristine nature spreads out below.  It’s nothing short of spectacular.

We stayed atop the boulder for a very short while – just enough time to take in the view and snap a few photos.  The wind was so strong, it could almost blow a person of their feet!  The hike down went very quickly, and simply retraced our steps.

After this short hike, we headed into the little town of Blowing Rock for lunch.  What an adorable town!  If you visit the area, don’t miss a visit to the nearby town.

Adam Enjoys Rough Ridge
Adam enjoys the rocky outcroppings on Rough Ridge.  Below:  Adam climbing the trail; We made it to the top; Christine crossing one of the footbridges;  Log steps descending the trail.

Climbing the Rough Ridge Trail At the Top of Rough Ridge Bridge on Rough Ridge
Log Stairs Climbing Down Rough Ridge

Adam Says…

Rough Ridge was one of the hikes we were most excited to do on this trip.  When we were at the Linn Cove Viaduct, we were hoping that the Rough Ridge hike would give us great views of the viaduct and we were not disappointed.

The trail starts from the parking lot by going up a few log steps.  At the top, you reach a junction of the Tanawha Trail.  Take the trail to the left and follow uphill until you reach the boardwalk at .3 miles.  Interestingly enough, while they tell you to stay on the trail, they have left an opening to climb out onto a large flat rock.  Just be careful if you have any children, since the edge has a large dropoff.  From this viewpoint, you can see the Linn Cove Viaduct which looks quite straight from this perspective as you are looking at it straight on.  After the boardwalk, the trail continues to climb and then takes a sharp turn leading up to another rock formation that daring people could climb onto.  Continuing on, at .6 miles, you reach a junction with the Tanawha Trail again and see the trail blocked off to protect vegetation.  There are a few different rocks to get great views, with the best being from the rock Christine mentioned above with a cable to hold to guide yourself up.  There are some great spots here to have a quick snack and enjoy the views all around you.  From the summit, you can see Grandfather Mountain rising above the Linn Cove Viaduct (which you can see snake from the summit) and views down into the Linville Gorge.  On a clear day, you should be able to see for miles

One of the more popular rock climbing spots in the South lies below Rough Ridge in an area known as Ship Rock.  If you are a skilled rock climber, I could see this being a way to do some climbing on the rocks before taking this trail to hike to the top.

This is definitely an easy hike for most people that has a huge payoff for minimal effort.  If you are traveling along the Blue Ridge Parkway, I would make this a must-do hike along the way for a short 1-1.5 hour break.

Trail Notes

  • Distance – About 1.2 miles
  • Elevation Change –  480 ft
  • Difficulty – 2. This is a fairly easy hike.  It’s mostly uphill, but never steep.  The final viewpoint at the top requires a short, rope-assisted climb to a boulder top.
  • Trail Conditions – 3.  The trail is good condition, but it can be muddy and slick.
  • Views5.  AMAZING!
  • Waterfalls/streams – 0. There are no streams on this hike.
  • Wildlife – 0. This area is heavily traveled, so it’s unlikely you’ll see wildlife.
  • Ease to Navigate –4. This trail is an easy to follow out-and-back.
  • Solitude –1.  We saw quite a few people on this hike.

Directions to trailhead: Follow the Blue Ridge Parkway to mile marker 302.8  Park at the Rough Ridge overlook.

Linn Cove Viaduct (NC)

North Carolina Hikes

The Linn Cove Viaduct is one of the Blue Ridge Parkway’s most recognizable features.  A short (less than one mile!) loop hike lets you see the viaduct from all angles, while enjoying a lovely walk through the woods.

Linn Cove Viaduct
The Linn Coves Viaduct hugs the side of Grandfather Mountain. Below: Adam walks beneath the viaduct; Tanawha trail blazes; Markers along the trail.

Walking Under the Viaduct Tanawha Trail Marker Tanawha Trail

Christine Says…

We recently spent a few days in western North Carolina along the Blue Ridge Parkway.  What a spectacular area!  On our first full day, we did a trio of short, ‘leg-stretcher’ hikes in the vicinity of Linn Cove – the Viaduct Trail, Rough Ridge and Beacon Heights.  In retrospect, we think we should have covered all three of these hikes as one long out-and-back (or shuttle) along the Tanawha Trail, but you live and learn when you visit a new place.

Our first mini-hike of the day was a short loop that passed underneath and then alongside the famous Linn Cove Viaduct.  The viaduct is a feature I had been wanting photograph for years, and to be able to visit at the peak of fall color was a real treat. The serpentine curve of the viaduct hugging the shoulder of Grandfather Mountain is a classic scene – probably one of the Parkway’s most iconic.

Our hike started out from the Linn Cove Visitor Center.  The paved trail begins at the far end of the parking area.  For almost a quarter mile, the trail passes underneath the viaduct.  Cars rumble across the span overhead, while underneath walkers can marvel at the engineering it took to put the viaduct in place.  At the end of the paved section, a set of stairs climbs up a hillside and the trail begins to run through the woods, parallel to the viaduct.  If you continue uphill, you’ll find yourself on the Tanawha trail.  A trail lower on the hillside follows the road more closely and crosses a couple small bridges.  It really doesn’t matter which trail you follow, both will lead to the same place – a great vista just above the viaduct.

The trail to the vista is just a small, well-worn footpath through the woods.  Be careful you don’t miss it!  If you continue on, you’ll be following the Tanawha Trail for quite a while.  The best clue that you’ve reached the side trail is that you’ll be able to see the north-end of the viaduct through the woods.  Follow the trail until it reaches a jumble of rocks just off the side of the road.  Climb the rocks, and you’ll be able to enjoy a beautiful view of the viaduct curving off around the side of the mountain, with the rolling valley beyond.  It’s GORGEOUS, especially in early morning light!

After you’ve enjoyed the view, take the footpath up to the main trail and return the way you came.

Walking Through the Woods Alongside the Viaduct
The trail went through the woods, roughly running parallel to the viaduct. Below: The trail passed some interesting boulders; This tree’s roots really have to reach toward the ground; A paved section of path underneath the viaduct.

Boulders Near the Linn Cove Viaduct Interesting Tree on the Viaduct Trail Paved Trail

Adam Says…

Normally, if I were to hear someone suggest that I take a short hike with the highlight being a view of a paved road, I would think they don’t know what a nice hike is.  However, I would be wrong in this case.  It is impressive to think about how this feature was built and the bend in the road leads to some gorgeous views off the side.  And when you hit this on a beautiful fall day, you have quite a scene.

I would recommend a trip inside the visitor center to learn more about the construction of this feature.  I was impressed to learn that the viaduct was created with the purpose of not impacting the surrounding environment.  Many times when roads are being constructed, they will cut into the mountain to build the road.  The Linn Cove Viaduct was actually built by putting seven foundations below and then having 153 segments lowered down onto seven piers.  This kept construction vehicles from having to build a temporary road to haul heavy construction vehicles and equipment on to the mountain, minimizing the stress on the nearby environment.   For more information on how this feat was accomplished by the Figg & Muller Engineering Group, check out the NPCA’s website for details.

On our way down to North Carolina, we had extreme heavy fog and light drizzle.  Visibility was at times only allowing us to see about 20 feet in front of the car.  We had driven over the viaduct and didn’t even really know what we were missing.  Pedestrians aren’t allowed on to the viaduct.  To get the classic photo you see above, there was a side trail once you reach the other side of the viaduct that leads to a boulder for the birds-eye view.

This was a great start for a few days of hiking along this area of the Blue Ridge Parkway.  The foliage near the peak of fall color made us excited to take in as many autumn views as we could.

Trail Notes

  • Distance – About one mile
  • Elevation Change –  negligible
  • Difficulty – 1. This is an easy hike, part of it is even accessible and follows a paved path.
  • Trail Conditions – 4.  The trail is in excellent condition.
  • Views4.  The best views are from the small, rocky outcropping just above the road.  You’ll also get some glimpses of the valley through the trees.
  • Waterfalls/streams – 1. There is one small waterfall cascading under the viaduct.  You’ll pass over it on one of the small footbridges.
  • Wildlife – 0. This area is well-populated by people, so it’s unlikely you’ll see wildlife.
  • Ease to Navigate –3. We aren’t really sure what part of the hike was the Tanawha trail and what part was the interpretive trail for the Viaduct, but it really didn’t matter since the area is so small and close to the road.
  • Solitude –1.  While we saw almost nobody on our visit, I think it was the exception.  This area is typically very popular and heavily trafficked.  When we passed the same area later in the day, it was swarming with people.

Directions to trailhead: Follow the Blue Ridge Parkway to mile marker 304.  Park at the Linn Cove Visitor Center.

Overall Run

There are longer loops that include Overall Run,  but this 4.8 mile route hits the key notes with fairly minimal effort.  Overall Run Falls is the tallest waterfall in Shenandoah National Park (93 feet), but the best part of this hike is actually the spectacular view overlooking a gorge with open vistas facing west.

Adam Enjoys the View at Overall Run
Adam enjoys the western view from Overall Run. Below: Adam walks along the Tuscarora Trail; The first waterfall on Overall Run was pretty much non-existent; The return route on the hike took us through Mathews Arm Campground.

Adam on the Traces Trail First Falls on Overall Run Return Through the Campground

Christine Says…

Well… here we are – finally back to Virginia hiking!  For a website that focuses on Virginia hikes, we really haven’t done many ‘home-state’ hikes lately.  Part of it was finding time to hike with a busy schedule, but even more at fault was the dreadfully hot and stormy summer.  I’ll admit, I’m not a summer person.  I wither in the heat and humidity.  I loathe bugs, especially mosquitoes and ticks.  There were so many days that we passed on hiking just because we didn’t want to endure the heat.

Fortunately, over the last few weeks, summer seems to be fading away.  There’s been a snap of fall in the air.  Summer haze is evaporating, leaving skies crisper and clearer.  Nights are dipping down into the fifties (we hit the forties a couple times last week).  Even the ridgelines atop the taller peaks are started to fade to a rusty green.  Autumn is just around the corner, and I couldn’t be happier!

On one of the first ‘fall-ish’ days in September, we decided to hike down to see the tallest waterfall in Shenandoah National Park.  I’ve hiked just about every trail in the park, but somehow I’ve never gotten around to hiking Overall Run.  It’s one of those hikes that’s been on our to-do list forever, but keeps getting bumped for other hikes.  Overall Run is notorious for slowing to a trickle during dry periods, but we were coming off a very rainy/stormy week, so we figured it was a good time to see the falls with a decent volume of water.

Steep Section on the Tuscarora Trail
Adam climbs down the one steep section of the hike. Below: This gorge is home to Shenandoah’s tallest waterfall – Overall Run.  When we visited, there was almost no water running; Christine enjoys the view;  We enjoyed the view with LOTS of other people.

Overall Run Waterfall Christine Enjoys the View at Overall Run Crowded Viewpoint

We started out at Mathews Arm, in the parking lot adjacent to the campsite check-in station.  We followed the Traces Trail for a short distance until it met the Tuscarora/Overall Run trail.  The trail descended gently through the woods.  There was nothing exceptional along the way – just pretty, quiet forest scenery.

Eventually, the trail dropped steeply down a set of log steps set into the trail.   Right before the descent, we saw a shirtless guy sitting in a tent, about ten feet off the trail.  Seriously… if you camp in the park, shouldn’t you be far enough off the trail that everyone passing by can’t see you?  At the bottom of the initial descent, we came to the first (and smaller) of the falls.  It was just a thin ribbon of water through the canyon, so we quickly moved along.  After one more short descent, we reached the large falls on Overall Run.  It was barely a trickle, just a sheer film of water running down the canyon wall.  While the waterfalls were seriously disappointing, the view was not!  It was spectacular and expansive, offering gorgeous views to the west.

We shared the view with lots of other people.  Besides Dark Hollow Falls, I’ve never seen so many people at a Shenandoah waterfall at once. It was a little surprising.  I had no idea Overall Run was so popular!  We stayed for a while, enjoying the beautiful day and the wonderful view.

On the way back, we intended to return the same way we arrived, but at the top of the climb after the falls, we saw a trail junction that pointed 1.5 miles to Mathews Arm Campground, so we decided to go that way.  The trail took us over to Beecher Ridge, which turned into a fire road, then back into a trail, which eventually led to the back side of Mathews Arm campground.  We walked through the campground and back to our car.

All in all, it was a pretty hike made worthwhile by the awesome view!  I’d like to see Overall Run falls running generously someday, but after doing a little digging on a couple photo sites, it seems to take seriously heavy rain or snowmelt to make the falls truly impressive. If we do this hike again, we’ll do it in the spring after there has been lots of rain!

Adam Says…

Overall Run was definitely a pleasant surprise to me.  I knew about the large waterfall here, but I had no idea that the views would be so impressive.

We started off our day with a big breakfast at Skyland Resort.  I hit the breakfast buffet, which had eggs, bacon, sausage, french toast, fresh fruit, oatmeal, and biscuits.  It was a good way to get some energy in my system for a hike, but I did feel the need to do some exercise to “earn my bacon”.  After leaving breakfast, we made our way to the trailhead at the Mathews Arm campground, seeing a coyote and bobcat on the way there.  We didn’t get any pictures, since both of these animals are typically very skittish and darted off Skyline Drive as soon as we spotted them.

We pulled into the Mathews Arms campground, passing the fee station for overnight camping and taking a right to the large parking lot.  From the parking lot, we began our hike on the Traces Trail, which led into the woods.  We stayed on the Traces Trail until we reached the junction with the Tuscarora/Overall Run trail at .6 miles.  Take a left on this trail.  At 2.0 miles, you reach a junction with the Mathews Arm trail, which will be your return route for the loop.  We continued on the Tuscarora Trail until we reached the overlook area at 2.5 miles.  For the return, we went back the way we came.  At 3.0 miles, we took a right on the Mathews Arm trail towards the campground.  At 3.5 miles, we reached a junction with the yellow-blazed Beecher Ridge trail (more like a fire road) and took a left towards the campground.  At 3.9 miles, you will reach a junction with the Weddlewood Trail, but stay straight.  You will reach the campground around 4.5 miles near a restroom.  Follow the road to the right making your way back to the amphitheater and parking area for your vehicle at 4.8 miles.

Adam Walks the Trail Toward Mathews Arm
Adam walks the trail toward Mathews Arm. Below: We came to a trail junction that pointed us back toward Mathews Arm – we decided to take it; Adam crosses a rocky section of trail near the start of the stream that feeds Overall Run; A pretty clearing along the Beecher Ridge trail.

Trail Junction on Overall Run Hike Rocky Section Near Headwaters of Stream Clearing Along Beecher Ridge Trail

The definite highlight of the hike was the views from the overlook and I wasn’t the only one to think so.  We would see people that would say, “Oh, that’s the waterfall?”, but then camp themselves on the rocks to soak in the views.  There are a few different spots to enjoy the views from the overlook, but not a ton of room.  The northern district in the park tends to get a lot of visitors from the northern Virginia area and since this trail is accessible from the northern most campground, you will likely see lots of people on your hike.  I climbed up some precipitous rocks and sat looking out into the canyon with views of mountain ridges for miles.

Of interesting note about this hike is when you start your hike from the Traces Trail and reach the intersection with the Tuscarora Trail, the trail splits into two.  If you head to the right, you will reach the eastern terminus of the Tuscarora Trail in just a few tenths of a mile.  The other terminus of the trail is 252 miles away.  The area in Virginia and West Virginia was once known as the Big Blue trail.  Originally designed as an alternative to the Appalachian Trail (since it connects to the Appalachian Trail at both ends), it will one day become a part of the Great Eastern Trail, connecting Alabama to New York.

Trail Notes

  • Distance 4.8  miles
    (Check out the stats from MapMyHike)*
  • Elevation Change – About 850 feet
  • Difficulty – 2  This hike has only one steep section leading down to the waterfalls, the rest of the trail is flat or requires only moderate climbing/descending.
  • Trail Conditions – 4.  The trail is well-maintained and relatively easy to walk.
  • Views– 4.  The view at the gorge next to the waterfall is spectacular!
  • Streams/Waterfalls – 2.  There are two primary falls on Overall Run.  The second waterfall is the largest in the park, measuring 93′, however, it’s not terribly impressive in volume.  We started this hike to see the waterfalls, but found the view far more rewarding.
  • Wildlife –2.   We didn’t see anything on the hike, probably because the heavy hiker volume, but we did see a coyote and a bobcat on the drive to the trailhead.
  • Ease to Navigate – 4.  There are few trail options to take, but most of them lead back to the start point. As long as you pay attention, you shouldn’t get lost.
  • Solitude – 1.  We were on the trail before 9:00 a.m., but still found the trail exceedingly crowded.  The overlook at the point of the largest falls had about a dozen people when we arrived.  We saw many more people on the way back.  We even saw one group camped less than ten feet off the trail.

Directions to trailhead: Follow Skyline Drive to the Mathews Arm Campground at mile marker 22.  Park at the amphitheater and follow the blue-blazed Traces Trail that departs from the east end of the parking lot.

* MapMyHike is not necessarily accurate, as the GPS signal fades in and out – but it still provides some fun and interesting information.

Cadillac Mountain North Ridge – Dorr Mountain Loop – Acadia National Park (ME)

Special: Acadia Edition

This 5.9 mile loop takes you over Cadillac and Dorr mountains – two of Acadia’s most prominent peaks.  There is some very steep climbing along exposed granite on this hike, but the views are truly spectacular!

Cairns on Dorr Mountain
Cairns mark the trail along the ridgeline leading to the summit of Dorr. Cadillac Mountain is visible across the gorge. Below: Stone stairs on the North Ridge Trail; Adam climbs across bare granite, Trail names are marked at junctions; The trail was more forested after leaving Kebo Mountain.

Stone Stairs on the North Ridge Trail Climbing the North Ridge Trail Junction Piney Trail

Christine Says…

Tuesday morning started clear and sunny, so we decided to get an early start and tackle a loop hike that would take us across the summits of Cadillac, Dorr and Kebo mountains.  After bagels, muffins, fruit and coffee (hooray for free hotel breakfasts!), we made the short drive from downtown Bar Harbor to the Cadillac North Ridge trailhead, which is located shortly after the Park Loop Road becomes one-way.

We’ve climbed the North Ridge Trail three or four times before, but this is the first time we combined it with other trails to create a loop.  The North Ridge Trail is significantly shorter than the South Ridge, but still offers beautiful views of the ocean and offshore islands.  When we arrived, we were able to get a parking spot at an overlook right across from the trailhead.  Unless you get an early start, you’ll definitely want to use the Island Explorer bus to access this hike.  It’s a popular route, and the overlook can only accommodate several cars.

Islands as Seen from the North Ridge Trail
Porcupine Islands are visible along the North Ridge Trail. Below: Adam at the trailhead at the beginning of our hike; Christine hikes across open granite; Cairns and the Porcupine Islands.

Cadillac North Ridge Trailhead Christine Hiking the North Ridge Trail Cairns Along the North Ridge

As we started hiking uphill, we passed a family of four that had hiked up in the dark to arrive at the summit in time for sunrise.  They looked exhausted but told us it was well worth the early start.  After that group, we really didn’t see anyone else until we arrived on the summit.  Even though it was early, the day was already really hot and humid.   Not even a hint of breeze was blowing.  I’m not used to sweltering in Maine (even in the summer), but I was so hot!  My head was pouring sweat which soon washed all the ‘waterproof sport’ sunscreen off my face.  Sometimes sunscreen seems like a losing battle!

Occasionally, the trail would duck into a small copse of pine trees.  Momentarily, the heat would abate and I would feel comfortable for a few minutes.  But the shade never lasted, and I continued to march up the mountain, behind Adam.   Finally, I had to stop and pull my shirt up and across my face to dry off the sweat.  Adam looked back at me and I told him I was hotter than I’d ever been in my entire life.  And honestly, that wasn’t much of an exaggeration!

Nearing the Cadillac Summit
Adam passes a precarious cairn as he nears the Cadillac Summit.  Below: Lots of sweeping views and granite; The trail occasionally went into the shade; Big sky over Cadillac.

Wider View from North Ridge Woods Along the North Ridge Trail Big Sky On Cadillac Mountain

As we approached the summit, the trail followed closer to the auto road.  We could see the roofs of passing cars and hear motorcycles rumbling nearby.  Whenever the trail came close to the road, I noticed more trash littering the trail – bottle caps,  candy wrappers, and so many cigarette butts.  People driving up clearly throw stuff out their windows  – how they can do that in Acadia is beyond me!

Soon, the parking lot at the summit of Cadillac came into view.  It was still fairly early, so the summit wasn’t terribly crowded – one bus and a few dozen cars.  We got cold drinks at the summit shop.  Adam surprised me with a bandanna with a map of Mount Desert Island on it.  He thought I could use it to mop sweat!  I tied it onto the shoulder strap of my pack, and we headed off to explore the network of paved pathways around the summit.

We took a few photos and then worked on finding the Gorge Path.  Basically, we just had to find cairns heading down Cadillac and in the general direction of Dorr Mountain.  There were no signs or markers telling us we were going the right direction (all blazes in Acadia are blue and trail names are only identified at junctions).  Pretty soon, we were all but certain that we were going the right way.  The steep, boulder-strewn face of the mountain matched the description we had read of the Gorge Path.  I put my trekking poles away, so I could have both hands free to climb.  I also stowed my dSLR and got my inexpensive point-and-shoot out to document the climb down.

Christine on the Cadillac Summit
Christine enjoys the view from Cadillac Mountain. Below: Adam at the summit building; Crowds on the summit; Adam begins the climb down the Gorge Path.

Cadillac Summit Building  Crowds on the Cadillac Summit Climbing Down the Gorge Path

The climb down went pretty quickly.  Though, all the while we were looking at the face of Dorr.  I asked Adam if we were going to be climbing up that cliff face.  He said ‘I don’t see how the trail would go… but maybe?’.  Around that time, we spotted two colorful specks making their way down the mountain –  other hikers.  They confirmed the trajectory of our upcoming climb.

At the junction in the saddle between Dorr and Cadillac, we took a break.  I actually changed out of my heavy Oboz hiking boots and back into my Montrail trail runners.  Initially, I thought the Oboz would be better on this ankle-turning terrain, but really they just made me feel clumsy and heavy-footed.  I think I might have taken my final step (pun intended) in my transition to trail runners.

The climb up Dorr ended up being much easier than I expected.  From the shoulder of Cadillac, it looked steep and slick and scary.  But once we were actually there, the climbing was really fun!  I enjoyed looked back at the tiny, ant-like people atop the Cadillac summit.   Once we finished the initial climb up the face of Dorr, the walking was fairly gradual and moderate along a ridgeline.  The summit was marked in traditional Acadia-fashion – with a large pile of stone with an elevation/summit marker in the middle.  There were a few groups of hikers atop the summit of Dorr, but nowhere near the crowds on Cadillac.

Adam Takes in the View from the Gorge Path
Adam takes in the view from the Gorge Path.

There were several routes down Dorr, so Adam consulted out map and hiking guide to make sure we found the right one.   On most Acadia hikes, you get views in nearly every direction, so we stopped frequently to admire the beauty around us.  The climb down Dorr turned out to be tough – steep and knee-grinding. Granite is always jarring and unforgiving on your joints.  I could see Adam starting to grimace in pain along the descent.

Once we were back in the woods and the views were gone, we still had a couple more miles to go, so we focused on covering the terrain as quickly as safety would allow.  Most of the return arm of the loop was downhill, with one short uphill climb over the summit of Kebo mountain.  Kebo is short and tree-covered, and offers no open views.  After the summit of Kebo,  the remainder of the hike passed through forest before eventually coming back out on the Park Loop Road.  From the end of the trail, we still had about a mile of road walking to get back to our car.

The road was really crowded and the shoulder was narrow.  I practically jogged to get the road-walking portion of the hike completed as quickly as possible.  I got back to the car a little before Adam.  I found a ranger writing parking tickets for all the cars that had overflowed the North Ridge parking area.  There were probably about a dozen cars people had just left sitting in the middle of the road.  Someone had parked on either side of our Subaru, allowing just inches in front and behind.  It took me about ten minutes to rock the car out of the spot.  By the time I got the car out, Adam was making the final uphill push along the road.  I picked him up and we headed back into town to get a big lunch with my parents.

The Cadillac-Dorr loop was an ideal way to bag these two Acadia summits in a single hike!  I think I still like the South Ridge Trail up Cadillac a little prettier, but this was a fantastic hike, too.

Adam Says…

When we were deciding which hikes that we would like to have accomplished for the week, we both knew we wanted to hike up Cadillac Mountain.  On our last trip, we hiked up the south ridge of Cadillac Mountain.  But our first time hiking up Cadillac Mountain was taking this route up the north ridge and we were excited to cover it on the blog.  Christine has been mentioning the last few trips to Acadia that she wanted to hike up Dorr Mountain.  My memory of hiking up Dorr Mountain (via the East Face Trail) included visions of hiking up seemingly endless rock stairs and I was not excited to do this again.  So, I consulted my map and came up with a way that we could combine the two and also bag another peak, Kebo Mountain.  The great thing about Acadia National Park is that so many of the trails intersect, so you can be quite creative with how you approach different hikes.

Climb Up the Dorr Face
Adam climbs the steep, rocky face of Dorr Mountain. Below: Adam looks back at Cadillac; People look like tiny ants on Cadillac; Walking the ridge toward the summit of Dorr.

Looking at Cadillac from Dorr Tiny People on the Cadillac Summit Approaching the Dorr Summit

We started our hike from the Park Loop Road at the trail marker for the Cadillac North Ridge Trail.  Climbing up a few quick steps, we started to ascend the granite path that makes up the entire park.  In a short distance, the blue-blazed trail then turns right and you entire a wooded area of evergreens and birches.  As you approach .6 miles, the trail begins to draw close to the Cadillac Summit Road and you may hear cars and motorcycles nearby but the road is not visible for much of the hike. The trail continues through the forested area, but occasionally will open up to some views.  At 1.1 miles, you reach a section of over 100 steps built into the trail.  Once you feel tired of the steps, the trail comes above the treeline and begins to open up to gorgeous views behind you.  The trail becomes a little trickier at this point as you have to focus more on following the blue blazes marked on the rock or cairns that lead you along the trail.  A few times, you will come closer to the road and may even see some cars parked at pullouts enjoying the views.  Keep following the trail and you will reach the top of Cadillac Mountain (at a parking lot) at 2.2 miles.

Many of the summits of the mountains are marked by tall cairns and signs marking the summit.  For Cadillac Mountain, the 1,532 foot summit is marked simply with a USGS summit marker, which is located behind the gift shop at the top.  On a clear day, you will likely see a full parking lot and a ton of people climbing around the rocks of Cadillac Mountain taking photos.  But, instead of driving up to the top, you have earned it by hiking up.

At the top of Cadillac Mountain, there is a .5 mile Cadillac Summit Trail which is a loop around the top of the mountain giving you great views along the way.  We took this trail around for .3 miles and on the Northeast side you will begin to see some cairns that marks the Gorge Path.  Follow this trail down the mountain which starts to quickly go steeply down the side of Cadillac Mountain.  I would only recommend this trail if you feel like you have good balance and knees as you are climbing down a steep rocky path, often requiring you to crab crawl down the trail on all fours in some spots.  It is called the Gorge Path for a definite reason and you will soon see that this path cuts sharply between Cadillac and Dorr Mountains.  I kept trying to look ahead to see if the path leveled off to join Dorr Mountain, but you do have to go to the bottom of the gorge before you climb up on the other side.  At 2.9 miles, just .4 miles and 500 feet down from the summit of Cadillac Mountain, you reach the bottom of the gorge and will see a sign marking the intersection of several trails.  We went straight across to begin climbing up to the summit of Dorr Mountain.  This part of the trail was not as bad as it appeared as we were descending Cadillac Mountain, but it does require some rock scrambling to make your way up.  At 3.1 miles, we were finished with the scrambling and reached another intersection sign post.  Heading to the right following the Dorr South Ridge Trail, we hiked another .1 mile, following cairns along the way, until we reached the summit post of Dorr Mountain at 1,270 feet.

Once you are finished enjoying the summit, we retraced our steps back to the intersection sign at the top of Dorr to follow the Dorr North Ridge Trail at 3.3 miles.  This trail is extremely steep downhill, descending 900 feet over the next mile, but we were glad we were hiking down instead of up even though it is hard on the knees.    At 4.2 miles, you come to an intersection with the Hemlock Trail, but stay straight.  The trail then begins to go up and down as you crest some small hills until you make another climb up to Kebo Mountain.  At 4.8 miles, you reach the summit also marked by a summit post, but there are not great views from here.  Once we reached the summit, it was another downhill hike until we reached the Park Loop Road at 5.1 miles.  Take a left here, ascending slightly up the road until you return to your vehicle at 5.9 miles.

Dorr Summit
The summit of Dorr Mountain. Below: Christine on the summit; Island view from the Dorr summit, Trail markers upon departing Dorr.

Christine on the Summit of Dorr Ocean View from Dorr Trail Signs on Dorr Mountain

While I do think you earn some respect by hiking up Cadillac Mountain, I’m always impressed with the people that bike up the Cadillac Summit Road.  While I was drinking a Gatorade while resting outside the gift shop, I struck up a conversation with a man in his upper 50s that had just biked up.  When I asked him how long of a ride it was, he laughed and said that he just knew that it was 1150 feet up.  As I researched later, it looks to be a 3.5 mile ride, but that is some decent elevation to gain in that distance on bike.  I’m sure the ride down is more fun, but this could be tough on your brakes.

I did cover some of the interesting history behind Cadillac Mountain on our South Ridge post, so I thought it would be interesting to talk about the history behind the naming of Dorr Mountain.  George Dorr was the man that is often credited as being the father of Acadia National Park.   Hailing from Boston originally, he first came to visit Mount Desert Island in 1868.  He decided to make his permanent home here on the island.  He worked on convincing others that protecting this area was important and acquired much of the land through the Hancock County Trustees by purchasing it or receiving it in donations.  While the trustees were being threatened with having their ownership revoked, Dorr worked with lobbying the government to help protect the land.  In 1916, President Woodrow Wilson created the 6,600 acre Sieur De Monts National Monument.   In 1919, the area expanded to become Lafayette National Park, later changed to Acadia National Park in 1929.  George Dorr became the first director of the National Monument and the director of Acadia National Park.  He swam daily from his home on the coast, even chipping through the ice in the winters.  He suffered a heart attack after a morning swim in 1934 and was told he had six months to live.  But, he survived for 10 more years before dying on 8/5/44.  Dorr Mountain was once known as Dry Mountain.  George Dorr named the mountain Flying Squadron Mountain to honor French pilots from World War I.

Views on Climb Down Dorr
Adam and views on the climb down Dorr Mountain. Below: The downhill climb was steep and rocky; The tree-covered summit of Kebo; The trail exits the forest on the Park Loop Road for the final mile back to the car.

Trail Between Dorr and Kebo Kebo Summit End of the Hike

As the photos clearly demonstrate, the views from both Cadillac and Dorr Mountains are truly breathtaking.  I’m glad we took the path that we did to combine the summits of these three mountains.  We often felt as people were climbing up Cadillac Mountain from the Gorge Path or climbing up Dorr Mountain from the North Ridge Trail, that we were taking this trail the easiest way possible.  If you were to do this in reverse, you would be up for some brutal climbing.  I do agree with Christine in that I prefer the south ridge overall as a way to just hike up Cadillac Mountain.  Part of the reason for this is that the south ridge doesn’t get close to the park road and the other is that most of the views along the way are behind you.  But this does give you a great opportunity to stop and enjoy the views frequently.  However, I do think this is the best way to enjoy both Cadillac and Dorr Mountains and I will gladly do this again.

Trail Notes

  • Distance 5.9  miles
    (Check out the stats from MapMyHike)*
  • Elevation Change – About 1130 feet
  • Difficulty –  3.5.  The initial climb up Cadillac Mountain is steady, but gradual.  The downhill climbing is actually the tougher part of this hike – it’s steep and across unforgiving granite.
  • Trail Conditions – 3.  The trail is rooty, rocky and crosses a lot of bare granite.  It’s very typical Acadia terrain.
  • Views– 5.  There are spectacular views all along this hike.
  • Streams/Waterfalls –0.  No streams or waterfalls.
  • Wildlife – 2. Other than occasional birds and chattering red squirrels, you won’t see much.
  • Ease to Navigate – 3.  The cairns and blazes are pretty easy to follow.  The only tricky spot is finding the Gorge Path at the summit of Cadillac.
  • Solitude – 1.  The summit of Cadillac is crawling with tourists that have driven up the auto road.  You’ll see fewer people on the trails, but Acadia is too small and popular to offer real solitude.

Directions to trailhead:  From Bar Harbor, head west on US-233 for about a mile.  Enter Acadia National Park on the left and take another left onto the Park Loop Road.  Travel for about .5 mile and park on the left side of the road at a pullout.  The trailhead is on the opposite side of the road from the pullout.

* MapMyHike is not necessarily accurate, as the GPS signal fades in and out – but it still provides some fun and interesting information.