good for dogs – Page 5 – Virginia Trail Guide

Buzzard Rock

April 4, 2010August 26, 20157 Comments

This 4 mile out-and-back hike takes you to a ridge walk with views of Fort Valley below.

Adam on Buzzard Rock — From Buzzard Rock, you get a great view of Passage Creek and Fort Valley below. Below: The view below from this vantage point; Scrabbly pines are the predominant tree at the summit

Adam Says…

This was the first time that we had done this hike. The hike seems to be very popular for people from nearby Front Royal, Winchester and Northern Virginia. It is not too difficult of a hike, which makes it a great hikes for families and newbie hikers.

You start the trail from the parking lot and you’ll follow the double white blazes for the entire trip. You begin walking through a piney area that will smell nice if the area has been warmed up in the spring/summer sun. The trail has some hills to go up and down and a few small streams to cross. Around 1.0 miles, you will arrive at a frequently-used campsite. Just cross the campsite and continue up the trail for about another .75 miles until you reach the first overlook. You will continue up the hill to reach the ridgeline. Continue to hike across the ridge to take in the views from different angles. Once you feel that you have seen all that you would like, you can return the way you came.

Trail Sign — The trail is well-marked and connects to other local GWNF trails. Below: Lots of stuff along the trail is in bloom now; the rocks at the top are covered in lichen.

For any of those people that are interested in geocaching, you can grab three easy ones along the trail. All of them are normal-sized containers and have some things to trade. One of these was placed by our inspiration for a lot of hikes, Hiking Upward.

Unfortunately, this trip was marred for us since my wife sprained her ankle very badly at the top of the ridge. She somehow managed to hike back down under her own power despite my offerings to carry her down – quite a trooper! We definitely will do this hike another time.

Christine Says…

Buzzard Rock was a beautiful hike for a beautiful spring day. The summit offers a great scenic payoff with minimal effort. The elevation gain of 650 feet is very gradual with the exception of one very short, steep climb to the ridgeline.

The early part of the hike passes close to civilization, so the sound of cars and glimpses of houses are always in sight. However, within a half a mile, the trail leads away from everything and passes through a pretty stretch of open woods with very little undergrowth. In early spring, the forest floor is covered with tiny wildflowers peeking out from under the brown leaves. The view from the trail eventually opens up and provides a nice view of the Front Royal Fish Hatchery and the surrounding valley below.

View of the Valley Below — The view of the valley below is beautiful! Below: The Front Royal Fish Hatchery; A view of the Buzzard Rock “spine”

From this point on the trail is extremely uneven and rocky – big slabs of stone, angle up out of the ground like jagged teeth… more about that later. The view from the top is not as dramatic as other Virginia hikes, mostly because you can’t see many distant layers of ridges. What you do see is a deep, narrow valley below with Fort Valley Road and Passage Creek winding their way through. Because of all the recent rain, we could hear creek’s roar even hundreds of feet above.

We enjoyed the view, had some trail mix and then headed back down the mountain. I stopped along to way to photograph some flowering trees. When I turned to rejoin Adam, I moved a bit too hastily and carelessly. The toe of my boot got caught between two of the “jagged teeth” on the ridge. My toe stopped dead, but my ankle kept moving. It completely rolled to the side, resulting in a bad Grade 2 ankle sprain.

Parking Lot — I was extremely glad to get back to parking lot so I could stop walking on my injured ankle. Below: My bruised and deformed ankle.

My ankle immediately started to bruise and swell, but I had no choice but to hike myself out. Adam found a makeshift walking stick in the woods, and that helped offset weight on my injured foot. Nonetheless, it was a long two miles back down to the car. I’ll be off the trails for several weeks to come while my ankle heals and rehabs. I’m hoping it won’t take as long as the doctor predicted. I hate to waste three (or more) weeks of this fantastic spring hiking weather.

Wookie Says…

This was a great first hike of the year for me! It wasn’t very steep, and I love to scramble on rocks. What I liked less were all the small stream crossings on this trail. I hate to get my paws wet and muddy, but that’s exactly what I ended up doing on this hike. I actually acted quite brave, and on the return trip I crossed all the streams with confidence. Maybe I’ll be a water loving dog yet!

Wookie on the Trail — Wookie had a great time on the hike.

I really enjoyed the breezy overlook atop Buzzard Rock. I liked sniffing the air and feeling the sun on my back. I even got to enjoy a few graham crackers from my masters’ trail mix. I also got some water from my portable dog dish.

It was a great day, but I have a feeling I’m getting a bath when I get home.

Trail Notes

Distance – 4 miles – out-and-back
Elevation Change –around 650 feet
Difficulty – 2 This trail isn’t too steep and most people should be able to make it up to the top.
Trail Conditions – 3. The trail is in decent shape. There are some muddy spots and a lot of jagged rocks on the ridge.
Views –3.5. There are great views along the entire ridge. We would have liked it better if we couldn’t see a road below.
Waterfalls/streams –1. There are a few rock-hops across some streams, but nothing photo-worthy.
Wildlife – 1. This is a better bird-watching trip than a trip for spotting any mammals. We were glad we saw a buzzard at the top since it is their rock.
Ease to Navigate – 4.5. The trail is well-marked with a white double blaze.
Solitude – 2 . This is a popular trail for local families and also rock climbers.

Directions to trailhead: From I-66, take 340 South Exit. Take a right on 55 – Strasburg Road. Take a left onto 678 – Fort Valley Road. Take a left onto Mountain Rd., Route 619, towards fish hatchery. Parking lot is on the right-hand side. If you are arriving from the south, go up 340 (following directions for Front Royal Airport) until you reach 619-Rivermont Drive. After a few miles, Rivermont Drive becomes Mountain Rd (At sharp right bend ~1/2 mile past Fire Dept.). Parking lot is on the left-hand side just past Massanutten Farms Rd. If you reach the fish hatchery or Fort Valley Road you have gone too far.

Mount Pleasant

April 2, 2010February 26, 201714 Comments

This 5.4 mile loop hike takes you to the beautiful double summit of Mount Pleasant, across Pompey Mountain and then back down to your car.

NOTE (2/26/17): A recent hiker reported that the fall forest fire in this area did severe damage to this trail system. He reports that many of the blazes have been destroyed and the trail is hard to follow.

West Overlook - Mt Pleasant — Adam enjoys the vista from the west summit of Mount Pleasant. Below: Moss was still the only greenery along the trail. Leaves are still a few weeks away; The sign at the trailhead marks the loop at 5.2 miles. Our GPS marked it at 5.75, so we’ll split the difference in mileage for this blog post.

Christine Says…

When we hiked the Cole Mountain trail last fall, we made a mental note to return to the area sometime to do the Mount Pleasant hike. We’re so glad we did. The hike up Mount Pleasant provides gorgeous views from both its east and west summits. We had a crystal clear day and could see for miles in every direction.

We started out on our hike a couple hours later than we normally do. The delayed start turned out to be quite fortuitous. As we drove down Wiggins Spring Rd toward the trailhead, we saw 15-20 cars parked near the AT crossing and Cole Mountain trail. We assumed that they were a group camping and hiking on the Cole Mountain trail and were thankful not to sharing trail with such a large crowd. A little further down the road, the Mount Pleasant parking lot was empty with the exception of one frost-covered car that had obviously been left there overnight.

We started down the trail. It was icy and muddy, but pleasantly flat for the first mile. After we crossed a small stream, the upward climb began in earnest. It wasn’t terribly difficult or steep climbing, but it was constant for the rest of the way to the summit. Much of the trail was wet/soupy and covered with a thick layer of leaves. There were several places that the trail was tough to follow, but I imagine that once more hikers pass this way, the trail will become clear again.

The Dreaded Youth Group — These could be the poster children for the defiance of Leave No Trace principles. This was just a portion of the group we encountered.

At around the 1.5 mile mark, we started hearing distant voices in the woods – lots of distant voices. I looked at Adam and said “I don’t think all those people are on Cole Mountain after all.” At 1.9 miles we came to a trail junction being used as a rendezvous point for about 30 kids on a church youth group trip. I have never heard people being so loud in the woods. One group of three boys thought it was hilarious to repeatedly scream “NINKOMPOOP” at the top of their lungs as they headed down the trail.

After we cut through the crowd, we took a right turn and followed the spur trail up to the mountain top. On the way up, we passed about 20 more hikers from the same youth group. As I mentioned earlier, it was lucky we started our hike late, or else we might have been sharing the beautiful mountaintop with 50 shrieking kids. As it turned out, we had the view all to ourselves.

At the summit, there was a small sign with arrows pointing to the east summit and the west summit. We headed west first. The west summit is on a dramatic outcropping of rocks. It provides an expansive, layered mountain vista, including a great look at the bald summit of Cole Mountain. The east summit is also lovely, albeit a little less dramatic. The view is mostly valley and farmland.

We stayed at both summits longer than we normally would. We wanted to put some time and distance between ourselves and the youth group. We took in the view, had a snack and a drink and took a few photos.

The hike back down from the summit brings you back to the trail junction, where instead of turning left to hike back down the way you came up, you continue straight on the Henry Lanum Loop Trail. This trail will almost immediately begin to climb upward again – over the summit of Pompey Mountain. There are no views from this mountain. After reaching the peak of Pompey, there is a short, but steep downhill. The trail from this point on is a mix of uphill and downhill walking until you’re eventually returned to your car. On this loop, you definitely spend more time hiking uphill than you do hiking downhill. If you want less climbing, I recommend hiking this as an out-and-back. It won’t make the hike much shorter, but will significantly cut down on the climbing.

Adam Says…

Mountain Layers — The summit provides a beautiful view of distant mountains. Below: A telephoto shot of the Cole Mountain summit from the west side of Mt. Pleasant; The eastern summit is beautiful, albeit a bit less dramatic.

The hike up Mount Pleasant is one of the better hikes for views in Virginia. If you have a few days to spend in this area, I would also recommend doing this and the Cole/Cold Mountain hike. This area has some gorgeous mountains around you and the reason for the town nearby to be named Buena Vista. When you combine both views from the two overlooks at Mount Pleasant, you get nearly a full view of the area around you.

The hike was not too difficult. I would recommend that if just want to see the views, complete this hike as an out-and-back hike. When we did this hike as a loop, we added on the trip up Pompey Mountain, but there are not any scenic views or much of note on the way back.

One interesting note about this trail is that you may see some remnants of fallen American chestnut trees throughout your hike. They once covered this area until a fungal blight wiped out their population. It is interesting to think how different these views would have looked in a canopy of chestnuts.

To know which way to start the hike can be a little tricky. There are lots of paths away from the parking lot, including two blue-blazed trails marking the Henry Lanum Trail. You will start the hike at the blue-blazed trail that starts off very flat. The other blue-blazed trail looks clearly uphill and is the path that you will return. We felt this trail was a little hard to follow at times and could have used a few more blue blazes painted. There were times we were unsure if we were still on the correct trail.

The trail starts off relatively flat or going downhill for about the first 1.5 miles. Around 1.3 miles, you see a wooden sign that reads “Trail”, but other than that it is fairly easy to follow. Keep following the blue blazes and you will eventually need to cross a couple of areas that may include small streams. We didn’t have any trouble hopping across and I’m guessing that most of the year, it is relatively dry. After you cross the stream, the trail will lead to the climb up to the summit. Around 2.0 miles you will reach a junction sign that shows the Mount Pleasant Summit Spur Trail to the right. This summit trail continues for about .4 miles until you reach the saddle. A sign at the junction here shows there are overlooks to the West and East. The western summit takes about .1 mile to reach and you will need to climb up the rock outcropping for the great views. The eastern summit is closer and doesn’t require any climbing, but we were both more impressed with the views from the western summit. Once you take some time to soak in the views, go back the way you came to reach the junction sign for the Summit Spur Trail. If you want to continue the loop back to your car, you will continue straight on the Henry Lanum Trail. This leads you through the forest for some more uphill climbs over Pompey Mountain. From the junction sign, it is about 1.9 miles back to your vehicle.

Luckily, we were able to avoid the crowds of screaming teenagers that clearly don’t understand Leave No Trace principles. Once more of the leaves start spreading their leaves, the summit overlooks will give you absolutely amazing views.

Trail Notes

Distance – 5.4 miles – loop.
Elevation Change –1350 feet.
Difficulty – 3.5 This loop has long, moderate uphills and shorter, steeper downhills. It’s one of those trails that makes you feel like you’re always walking uphill.
Trail Conditions – 3. The trail is in decent shape. There was a lot of mud when we hiked.
Views –5. The east/west double summit of Mount Pleasant is magnificent
Waterfalls/streams –1. There is a small stream in the woods on the departing arm of the loop.
Wildlife – 0. Nothing, but doubtlessly the large church group scared any wildlife away. We did see lots of juncos along the trail.
Ease to Navigate – 2.5. In several spots, the trail was hard to find under thick leaves and blowdowns. Some blazes are starting to wear away and it might be easy to miss turns. I think ease of navigation will improve as spring/summer approach and hikers wear the path down.
Solitude – 3 . For today, we had a 0 for solitude, but we just had a bit of poor timing. Being the namesake hike for this area, you will likely run into some other people on the hike.

Directions to trailhead:
Follow I-81 to Buena Vista (exit 188A). After passing through the town of Buena Vista, follow US60/Midland Trail for 9.5 miles. Take a left on Coffeytown Rd. Follow Coffeytown for just under two miles. Take a right on Wiggins Spring Rd. Follow Wiggins Spring for 3 miles. This road will turn to a rugged gravel road. Follow the signs for the Mt. Pleasant trailhead. There is a small parking lot at the trailhead.

South River Falls

November 30, 2009April 29, 202211 Comments

This 4.6 mile hike leads you along the South River to an impressive waterfall that plunges deep into a canyon. When the park has experienced lots of rain, this waterfall hike is one of the nicest Shenandoah has to offer.

Cascades along the South River — The South River is impressive in times of heavy rain.

Adam Says…

We have kept with a tradition the last few years of doing a hike on Thanksgiving morning. It’s a great way to appreciate nature and try to do something active before a big meal. This year, we decided to break the tradition of having a huge Thanksgiving meal with turkey and all the trimmings. We decided to have an easier meal that we would both enjoy – homemade pizza.

We’ve hiked South River Falls before, but we’ve never had as much water in the falls before. We thought it would be impressive, since we could hear rushing water through the South River a lot earlier than normal. Waterfall hikes in Shenandoah National Park tend to be fairly tough ones. Since you park on Skyline Drive at a high elevation, you have to hike down to the valleys where the falls are created. What makes it difficult, at least psychologically, is that you get to the payoff fairly easily and then have to do the hard work on your way back to your vehicle.

The South River right at the crest of the waterfall. — The beauty of the South River is found mostly in its small details. The cascades and little falls leading the large waterfall are prettier than the main waterfall. Pictured below: South River Falls from the overlook at the top of the canyon; the falls from the base. You’ll see neither vantage point of the waterfall is terribly photogenic (especially after the leaves have come down). Both of the small photos below are from another date. This time, the falls were much bigger – but it was too sunny to photograph them.

The hike begins at the South River Picnic Area. Look for the large sign about the hike on the northeastern side of the picnic area. At slightly over .1 mile, you will cross the Appalachian Trail. You will continue your descent and around 1 mile, you will rock-hop across a small creek that drains into the South River. Usually this is not much of a challenge due to the water, but we found the water was higher than normal this time. At 1.3 miles, you will come to a nice overlook for the South River Falls. You really get a great view of the 83 foot waterfall. It plunges to a rocky ledge and splits in two about half of the length of the waterfall. If you continue on the trail for another .2 miles, you will arrive at a cement post and join a spur to the South River Fire Road. If you continue on for another .2 miles, you will descend even further and arrive at another cement post. Following the path from the cement post for another .1 mile, you will arrive at the base of the falls. For any adventurous shutterbugs, there are ample opportunities near the base of the falls for long-exposure photography. Make sure you have your strength up, because you have 2.2 miles to hike at a steady incline back to your vehicle.

To follow the trail as a loop as we did, once you make your return from the base of the falls, go .7 miles until you reach the cement post and the junction with the South River Falls Trail. Stay on the fire road instead and after .4 miles more, you will reach the yellow-blazed South River Fire Road. Take a left on the road. In about a mile, you will reach the junction with the Appalachian Trail. Take a left on the white-blazed AT, heading south for about .4 miles. You will then reach the junction with the South River Falls Trail and only have about .1 mile to reach the picnic ground.

The hike was a tough one, but it was nice to get some exercise. The thought of carving into our pizza helped us muster the energy to make it back.

Christine Says…

This was a great trail to burn off Thanksgiving calories! The terrain is rugged and the return arm of the loop is nothing but steady, tough uphill climbing. Even Wookie, who is normally a bundle of boundless energy, got quite tired on this hike. By the time we got to the Appalachian Trail junction, his corkscrew tail was completely unfurled. Even though there are some hikes in the park with more elevation gain, I think the 1300+ feet on the South River trail provides some of the park’s tougher climbing. Anyone looking for an easier version of this hike should consider doing the short loop (3.2 miles) that returns after the overlook at the top of the falls. By taking that route, you reduce the elevation gain to a very manageable 850 feet.

Despite the hard work required to get there, I really enjoyed seeing the South River and its namesake falls so flush with water. The Shenandoah area has had over five inches of rain in the month of November – more than double the normal amount. All of the park’s streams, rivers and waterfalls are flowing beautifully right now. It’s a great time to get out and enjoy the scenery and the less-crowded conditions in the park.

I had hoped to get some photo opportunities along the river on our Thanksgiving hike. I did take a few shots, but the weather was less than cooperative. It was too sunny to take shots of the moving water. Every now and then, I found a shady spot down in a deep ravine. I did a bit of bushwhacking to get to a few pretty spots, but overall I don’t feel like I came home with any special photos.

Honestly, while South River falls is probably the park’s most impressive waterfall, it is not one that translates nicely on film. The falls plunge into an enormous natural amphitheater. The sheer rock walls are amazing, but they aren’t photogenic. I’ve seen a few nice shots of South River Falls in the spring, when the water is flowing and the falls are surrounded by the lush new green of the trees and plants. In the late fall and winter, the falls are really scrubby and barren looking.

I think some of the prettiest and most dramatic places along the South River come at the bottom of the falls. In the last .1 mile of the trail, leading to the base of the falls, the water tumbles over a hundred feet down over giant boulders. There are many small, beautiful waterfalls to enjoy before you get to work climbing back up to your car.

When we got home from our hike, we found several TICKS! Can you believe it – ticks in late November; ticks after the mountains have had snow and temperatures at night are regularly below freezing? These were tiny ticks – about the size of a pinhead. We pulled one off Adam’s sweatshirt and two off of Wookie. I hate having to watch for ticks year round, but it seems that we must.

Wookie Says…
Hey all of you fellow hiking dogs. It’s been a while since I’ve been hiking, so I’m going to let you know what I thought of the trail. I enjoy getting the chance to get in the outdoors and I usually run laps around the house when my masters ask, “Would you like to go on a car ride?”

The hike on South River Falls was pretty fun for the most part. I enjoyed going downhill until I reached the stream to try and rock-hop. I’ve done this hike before with my masters, but there was a lot of water this time around. I don’t really like to get my feet wet and when I see any water on the hike, I try to take the driest option. After Adam crossed the creek, I really didn’t want to follow him. Only after Christine gave me a little nudge with her trekking poles, did I take the plunge and hop across the rocks.

Wookie Enjoyed the Hike — Wookie enjoyed the hike, but was exhausted the rest of the day.

All the rushing water on the trail, really made me need to go to the bathroom. I tried to make my mark as much as possible to let all my fellow canines know that Wookie was here. The hike back from the falls was pretty brutal for a small dog like me. My tail was down a lot of the trip back, because it was exhausting. At least I got some pizza scraps and a taste of sausage instead of turkey scraps this year. For that, I was truly thankful.

Trail Notes

Distance – 4.6 miles – loop.
(Check out the stats from MapMyHike – added 5/16/15)
Elevation Change –1315 feet.
Difficulty – 3. The return arm of the circuit climbs steeply uphill along a fire road for two straight miles.
Trail Conditions – 4. The trail is in great shape.
Views –0. You are deep in the woods for the entire hike.
Waterfalls/streams –4. In times of heavy rain, the South River is an impressive stream.
Wildlife – 0. We didn’t see *anything*, but over the summer there was a bear with three cubs in the area.
Ease to Navigate – 4. Trails are clearly marked.
Solitude – 2. This trail’s proximity to a park entrance makes it a popular hike.

Directions to trailhead:
From Skyline Drive, follow the drive to the South River Picnic Area (near mile marker 62). The trailhead is located at the back end of the picnic grounds, across from the restroom facilities.

Big Run Loop

November 15, 2009August 26, 20155 Comments

Big Run is a pretty (almost) six mile walk along one of the park’s less-trafficked trails. Although this hike does not offer any grand scenery, it offers plenty of solitude and nice options for backcountry camping.

Cliffs along the Appalachian Trail — These lichen covered cliffs are found along the Appalachian Trail segment of the Big Run Loop.

Christine Says…

We said we were going to take a weekend off of hiking so we could catch up on yardwork and housework, but the weekend was far too beautiful to spend it being productive adults. We decided to have breakfast at Big Meadows before hitting the trail. Most of the park facilities closed for the season on Sunday, and the remainder will close the last weekend in November. It was nice to have one final round of pancakes and sausage in the lodge dining room.

After our big meal, we headed south on Skyline Drive to hike the Big Run Loop. Last time we did this trail, it was in the midst of an August heat wave. It was in the nineties and we had to rest and drink water every ten minutes. This time, the weather was considerably cooler – but still unusually warm for November. I couldn’t believe it, but there were actually swarms of bugs pestering me every time I stood still. I even got a giant mosquito bite on my collarbone. It’s not supposed to be buggy in November!

The trail was covered with dry, brown leaves. Pictured below: The only color left in the woods was from moss and a few hardy ferns.

The trail started off with a couple miles of steady downhill. The trees had completely shed their fall foliage, so the trail was covered with a thick blanket of crispy fallen leaves. As we crunched along the trail, I remarked to Adam that we would certainly not be sneaking up on any wildlife on this hike. The leaves made it hard to see obstacles on the trail, and we both stumbled over rocks and branches hidden under the leaf layer.

At around the two mile mark, we reached Big Run. The water was very low and the stream was mostly obscured by several newly fallen trees. Although the trail is named for this stream, I think Big Run is fairly unremarkable. We didn’t stay long at this spot.

Big Run was prettier last summer. Since this photo was taken, several large trees have fallen across the stream where the trail crosses.

Shortly after the stream, the trail took a distinct uphill turn. For about a mile and half, we climbed steadily uphill. Some parts were rather steep, but overall it’s really not too bad of a climb. I used my trekking poles on this hike and they made the ascent markedly easier. I think the poles help me hike more efficiently and take pressure off my knees. Whenever I use them I feel like I have extra magical energy.

We eventually came to a four-way trail junction at the top of the ridge. The remainder of the hike followed the Big Run Loop trail until it joined the Appalachian Trail. The last segment along the AT took us past some impressive granite cliffs and crossed the Doyles River Overlook on Skyline Drive. After about a mile and a half along the AT, we completed the loop and returned to our car.

Adam Says…

Doyles River Overlook

We were debating a few different options for our hike today, but we decided to do Big Run. One of the reasons that we chose this hike is due to the challenge of trying to find one of Hiking Upward’s hiking sticks. A few hand-carved hiking sticks are placed along the trails that are up for grabs to whoever can find them. They provide GPS coordinates for any geocachers out there. I wasn’t able to find one, I believe due to a typo on the website.

Buck in the rutting season. Pictured Below: Most places in the park allow catch and release fishing. Big Run actually allows fish to be harvested.

Due to all of the leaves falling, the hike was a little more challenging than normal. We started the trail going downhill fairly quickly and the leaves made it for tricky footing. The swoosh of the leaves with every step drowned out our own voices and everything else. We had to stop to hear each other when we wanted to talk along the hike.

The blue-blazed trail descends about 1500 feet in 2.2 miles when you reach the branch of Big Run. The water was still and barely more than a trickle this time. After rock-hopping the stream, you will come to a cement post. Take the left branch of the fork. The trail is now marked by yellow blazes and starts a steep ascent. You will gain about 1000 feet of elevation in a little over a mile. At 3.5 miles, you will come to another cement post. Turn left, heading east, to continue on the Big Run Loop Trail, which is now marked by blue blazes again. While you still are going uphill for most of the rest of the hike, it is definitely more manageable. At 4.2 miles, you will reach the junction with the Appalachian Trail. You will take a left, heading north, to follow this white-blazed trail. At 4.5 miles, you will cross Skyline Drive, to stay on the AT. At 4.7 miles, you will reach the Doyles River Overlook, which provide you the best views on the hike. The AT continues on the north side of the parking lot. You will stay on this trail for another mile. When you reach the cement post at 5.7 miles, you will take a left which will take you back to your car at the Doyles River Parking Lot only about 30 yards away.

While this hike is not spectacular for streams or views (until you reach the Doyles River Overlook), it was still an enjoyable walk through the woods. As I mentioned earlier, the leaves led to some difficulty with seeing the trail. At one point on the AT, I slipped on a rock hidden by the leaves and went tumbling down. Luckily, I was unscathed and more importantly, I was able to protect Christine’s camera gear I was lugging on my back.

Trail Notes

Distance – 5.8 miles
Elevation Change – 1400 feet
Difficulty – 3.5. There is a mile and a half of steady uphill shortly after crossing Big Run stream.
Trail Conditions – 4. The trail is in great shape. It was a little trickier than it should have been with all the downed leaves covering the trail. Footing was tough at times because we couldn’t see rock and branches on the trail.
Views –1.5. You get one nice view when the Appalachian Trail crosses the Doyles River Overlook. If you hike when leaves are down, you get some other glimpses of views along the way.
Waterfalls/streams – 1. Big Run is not as impressive as it sounds. It’s not big and it doesn’t really run much either. 🙂
Wildlife – 2. We saw deer and lots of different kinds of birds.
Ease to Navigate – 4. Although there are turns, this trail is very well marked.
Solitude – 4. Because this trail lacks grand views and waterfalls, it tends to be more lightly trafficked than other Shenandoah trails. The area is popular with backcountry campers.

Directions to trailhead:
Follow Skyline Drive to the Doyles River Trail Parking area near mile marker 81. Cross the drive and begin your hike on the western side of the road. The hike departs from the Big Run Overlook. There may be room for a car or two at the overlook, but we recommend parking in the larger Doyles River parking area.

Doyles River-Jones Run

November 1, 2009August 26, 20155 Comments

The Doyles River-Jones Run loop is a nice six-mile hike that takes you past three sizable waterfalls and a lot of beautiful stream scenery.

Lower Doyles River Falls didn't have much water, but was surrounded by foliage. — There are three significant waterfalls along the Doyles River – Jones Run trail.

Christine Says…

Although, the wind, rain and (yes!) snow stripped the fall color from Shenandoah rather early this year, Adam and I still wanted to get out and hike on at least one glorious, sunny autumn day. There was still a little bit of colorful foliage hanging on in the south district of Shenandoah National Park, so we decided to hike the Doyles River- Jones Run loop on Sunday morning.

Park at the Brown Gap lot — Parking is available at Brown Gap. Pictured Below: The fire road leading down from the parking lot is one of the prettiest in the park; the Shenandoah area has tons of Civil War history. We passed the grave of confederate solder, William Howard, along the way.

We got to the trailhead at Brown Gap right as the sun was coming up. It was f-f-freezing and windy. I carelessly left my hat and gloves at home, so I flipped up the collar of my fleece and retracted my hands into my sleeves. We set out down the Brown Gap fire road, which is one of Shenandoah’s prettier fire roads. It’s also where I used to ride my horse, “Friday”, whenever we trailed to the park. The morning sun was filtering through the golden leaves, and soon the activity of walking warmed me up enough that I didn’t miss my gloves at all. The fire road was really muddy, so I took that as a good sign that there would be plenty of water flowing in the three waterfalls we’d be passing along the route.

In fact, I was so sure that the waterfalls would be impressive, that I carried all the “big guns” in my photography arsenal – two camera bodies, three lenses, a shutter remote, a collection of neutral density and polarizing filters, extra batteries, memory card and my tripod (the one that feels like it weighs close to 100 pounds when I carry it on long hikes). I also brought my new tripod bag (by Kinesis) that allows me to carry the tripod backpack style – evenly centering the weight on my back. The sling style carrier I’ve been using for the past few years twists my neck and shoulders, so I try not to carry it on long hikes. The new bag was really nice, but it perfectly lined up the camera mount lock lever with my butt. Every step I took, the lever poked me quite rudely. I ended up giving the tripod to Adam. He’s taller, so he escaped the constant prodding. I ended up carrying the bag with the rest of the gear. It was much heavier, but still more comfortable.

When we reached the bridge at the junction of the fire road and the Doyles River trail, I groaned in dismay at the dry stream before us. We walked along the river, or at least where the river should have been for another .3 miles to get to the base of Upper Doyles River Falls. Normally, there are pretty little cascades leading down to the main double-terraced waterfall. This time the waterfall was barely a trickle. We ate our breakfast at the base of “Disappointment Falls” and headed on to the lower falls.

The water is Upper Doyles Falls was low - compare January 2009 to October 2009. — The photo above shows Upper Doyles Falls is October 2009 (left) compared to January 2009 (right).

Surprisingly, the lower falls were running quite a bit more than the upper falls. I think narrower chasm through the rocks allows the second falls to hold onto more water flow. The second falls is thin and almost chute-like. Even though the second waterfall had more water, it still wasn’t anything spectacular. When you’re a photographer hiking with 40+ pounds of gear and realizing the shots you had planned aren’t going to happen, the gear instantly feels twice as heavy. I think this is the point that I started to feel like Atlas with the world resting on my shoulders. 🙂

Adam perches on a rock along lower Doyles River Falls. — Lower Doyles Falls was a bit nicer than the upper falls.

Leaving the lower falls, the trail became incredibly beautiful. It followed a babbling brook through near-peak foliage. The trees were a spectacular mix of gold, orange and red – all set off by the brilliant blue sky above. This was, without a doubt, my favorite section of the trail.

So far, the hike had been relatively easy – just gentle up-and-down grades along the stream. At the junction of the Jones Run Trail, the real work started. In just under 2 miles, we picked up most of the elevation gain on the whole hike. It was steep, hard climbing to reach Jones Run Falls.

The trees above displayed beautiful fall colors — The foliage along the Jones Run Trail was spectacular. Pictured Below: Jones Run and Jones Run Falls.

The waterfall on Jones Run was running low, but it was still really pretty. From the waterfall back up to Skyline Drive, the grade of the trail moderates a bit. It’s still a lot of uphill mixed with periods of flat terrain. Eventually, you reach the junction with the Appalachian trail and follow it north for a little over a mile back to the Brown’s Gap parking lot. This section of the AT follows closely to the road, so you constantly hear cars and smell exhaust. The walk along this section is easy, but rather uneventful.

Overall, I think this was a great hike. I’m so glad we had a chance to be outdoors on a beautiful fall day, but I wish the waterfalls had been nicer. We’ll have to try hiking it again in the spring after heavier, more sustained rains.

Adam Says…

While we’ve hiked Doyles River a number of times, this was the first time that we had made a loop of the hike and added Jones Run. When we have done this before, we parked at the Doyles River parking lot around mile marker 81. We would normally hike down to both of the falls and then head back.

On this hike, we parked around mile marker 83 at the Brown Gap lot. We crossed the road and headed down the Brown Gap fire road. At about .4 miles, you see a short path leading up to the gravesite pictured above. In about 1.7 miles you will reach the junction with the Doyles River Trail. Take a right on this trail. After about two tenths of a mile, you will reach the Upper Doyles River Falls. There is a short spur path to lead down to the base of the falls. Once you rejoin the trail, you will then see the Lower Doyles River Falls after a tenth of the mile. Don’t try to blaze down off the trail to reach the falls. The trail loops around to bring you closer to the falls. When you reach near the base of the falls, there is a short, treacherous climb down to the base of these falls. When you join back to the trail, continue south down the Doyles River Trail. You will reach the Junction with the Jones Run Trail in about .6 miles from leaving the Lower Doyles River Falls. You begin your hike up to the Jones Run Falls and will reach them about .7 miles on this trail. After the falls, you will have a 1.2 mile hike up to the Jones Run Parking lot. Before you enter the parking lot, there will be a junction with the Appalachian Trail. Take a right on the AT, heading north until you reach the Brown Gap parking lot. The AT portion is about 1.3 miles back to your car, leading you to this overall hike of 6 miles.

The woods on the Doyles River - Jones Run trail were gold and red. — The woods were very colorful at the lower elevations. Pictured Below: One downed tree we came across was so large that Adam could climb inside.

The hike is not that long being only six miles, but there is a lot of elevation gain from the base of the Doyles River Trail, leading up to the Jones Run Parking lot. Christine felt that it may be better to do this hike in reverse, but based on contours, I think either hike has a tough trip back at the end.

The waterfalls along the way on normal days are really some of the nicer waterfalls in Shenandoah National Park. The water flow didn’t allow us to see them at their best today, but we enjoyed them nonetheless. The Upper Doyles River Falls stands at 28 feet; the Lower Doyles River Falls plummets 63 feet.; the Jones Run Falls plunges 42 feet. If you’re looking for a hike to see multiple falls, this is the best one to do in Shenandoah.

The morning light made the trees glow golden. — More golden foliage along the trail.

On our way back to the car on the AT, we ran into a woman doing the trail in the opposite way. She had two pugs with her on the hike, named Titan and Zoot. They were eager to greet us, since they must have known we had three pugs of our own. They were very energetic to begin their hike to the falls, but we wondered how they fared on the steep way back. We wish we had taken some pictures of these boys, because they looked like they were ready for a great adventure that day.

Cars waiting to get into Shenandoah National Park — There was a very long line of cars waiting to get into Shenandoah National Park

The foliage was just slightly after peak today. We decided to exit the south entrance of the park to reward ourselves with some frozen treats from Sonic. On our way out, we saw the longest line of cars we’ve ever witnessed trying to enter the park at the south gate. Cars were at a stand-still all the way down to the interstate. Three rangers were walking down the line, handing out information to make the fee stations handle things quickly. I guess everyone felt that it would be a nice day to see color in the park and hopefully they weren’t too disappointed in the color.

Trail Notes

Distance – 6 miles – loop.
Elevation Change –1875 feet
Difficulty – 4. The climb up from the bottom of Jones Run is tough!
Trail Conditions – 3.5 The trail is well-maintained and traveled.
Views –0. You might get a few glimpses of vistas through the woods along the fire road.
Waterfalls/streams –4. The waterfalls and streams along this trail are beautiful, especially when there is plenty of rain.
Wildlife – 1. Just a couple deer.
Ease to Navigate – 4. Trails are well marked and easy to follow.
Solitude – 3. You will likely see several other groups of hikers along the way, but it’s not as heavily trafficked as other waterfall trails in the park.

Directions to trailhead:
From Skyline Drive, follow the drive to Brown Gap (near mile marker 83). The parking lot is on the west side of the drive. To begin the hike, walk across Skyline Drive and follow the Brown Gap fire road downhill.

Millers Head

October 1, 2009October 16, 20091 Comment

Millers Head is a beautiful little hike that starts out from the amphitheater at Skyland Resort. There are three nice overlook spots along the way.

The view from a small rock outcropping before the observatory was prettier than the actual Millers Head

Christine Says…

Millers Head is a perfect leg-stretcher with wonderful scenic payoffs. It’s also a bit of an oddity for Shenandoah hiking. One unusual thing about this hike is that the trail is mostly downhill as you walk out to the observatory. In Shenandoah, it’s very uncommon to have a steady descent on hikes that offer panoramic vistas. In fact, I can’t think of a single other “view hike” that goes downhill quite as much as Millers Head. Another interesting fact about this trail; it’s one of only three places in the park that are authorized launch points for hang gliders. If you’re lucky, you might get to see some gliders taking off and sailing over the valley.

The first of the viewpoints comes atop Brushytop Mountain, just .2 miles into the hike. There is a lovely shady spot with large boulders to sit and take in the view. Near Brushytop, you’ll also get a nice look at Skyland Resort built into the mountainside to the east. In the afternoon, the sun hits the lodge beautifully and Stony Man looms impressively over the resort area.

Brushytop offers a nice view of the valley. Below: the signpost at the trailhead, view of Skyland Resort looking back from the trail

I wasn’t so lucky with the lighting conditions for photography on the day we hiked. The clouds were dark and moving quickly across the sky. Whenever the sun came out, it was fleeting. I missed the afternoon light on Skyland by mere moments.

In my opinion, there are two viewpoints even nicer than Brushytop on this hike. One is an unnamed rock ledge close to the Millers Head observatory. It’s not marked, but you can’t miss the well worn footpath up to the rocks. It looks back to the east. The other is right at the end of the trail and includes a stone observatory deck built by the CCC. The observatory is starting to crumble and the handrail is loose and rusty. Nonetheless, the views are wonderful from this spot. If you’re into photography, I’d recommend (unlike us) doing this hike in the morning. I had to shoot right into the sun on this particular day, and didn’t really get any nice photos at Millers Head.

On the hike back, I was really cold! I can’t remember ever being cold on a September hike before. We’re having such odd weather this fall, but odd in a good way. I love the crisp snap in the air after the heat of summer. Without a doubt, this is my favorite time of year to hike.

Adam Says

This was a great hike that we combined with the Traces Trail in the North District to get a couple of short hikes in one afternoon. For the shortness of the hike, you really do get some nice views.

The fall leaves provided a gorgeous blanket of color on the trail. Fall hiking is some of the prettiest hiking when you have a nice clear day for views. However, leaves can also cover trails easily, so you have to be aware of where you are. I don’t think anyone could get lost on this particular trail, but it is something to keep in mind while hiking.

The trail was covered with fall leaves. Below: A couple views from the Millers Head Observatory. The clouds were changing so quickly.

Once you start the hike, you will go up a short distance until you reach a building that I think was either a radio tower or weather station. Shortly after that at .2 miles, you will come to a cement post. Heading straight ahead for a few feet will lead you to the Brushytop overlook. From here, you will get nice views of farmlands and small communities in the Shenandoah Valley. Backtrack to the post and head down. You will pass by a few boulder falls along the side. There are a few views off to both sides of the trail along the way before you reach the observation outpost at .8 miles. We had some overhanging clouds from the storm front that was slowly moving through, but we still were able to get gorgeous 180 degree views to the east. We were also fortunate enough to see a peregrine falcon swoop by, reminding us of our Hawksbill Summit Loop hike.

This is another good hike for families or with pets. While the trip back from the observation outpost was more uphill, it was easier to do than we thought it would be. I would recommend this hike to anyone looking for a short hike with a decent payoff for views.

Trail Notes

Distance – 1.6 miles out and back
Elevation Change –475 feet
Difficulty – 1.5. There are some rolling ups and downs on this trail, but overall it’s an easy walk.
Trail Conditions – 3. The trail is well-maintained, but rocky. When we hiked the trail, it was covered by a lot of wet, slippery leaves.
Views –3.5 The view from Millers Head is beautiful. You also get a pretty view of the valley and Skyland Resort from atop Bushytop Mountain, located .2 miles into the hike.
Waterfalls/streams –0. Non-existent.
Wildlife – 0 We didn’t see anything.
Ease to Navigate – 4. Just stay straight on the trail.
Solitude – 2. This trail’s short length and proximity to Skyland Resort make it quite popular.

Directions to trailhead:
Follow Skyline Drive to the Skyland Resort area, between mile markers 42 and 43. Pass the Skyland stables and continue up the road until you reach the amphitheater. You’ll see a sign for the Millers Head Observatory next to the theater.

Traces Trail

September 30, 2009April 29, 2022Leave a comment

The Traces Trail is a short, easy stroll through the woods. Located near Mathews Arm Campground in Shenandoah National Park, this hike is perfectly suited for families with young children and novice hikers.

The Traces Trail has some hints of the area's bygone mountain people. — The Traces Trail has some hints of the area’s bygone mountain people.

Adam Says…

We decided to do a couple of short hikes on a Sunday afternoon. Since we had just been pounded with rain the last few days, we were worried that hiking would be a little muddy, but that didn’t seem to be the case.

We had read about the Traces Trail in the North District of Shenandoah National Park in a hiking guide we had at home. The write-up in the book seemed to make this out to be a wonderful hiking trail where you would see glimpses of life from a bygone era and hints of mountainous views. You do get to see a few stone walls along the way and a glimpse or two of views through thick tree growth, but the overall hike doesn’t have much of a payoff.

I would recommend this hike if you just want to enjoy a nice walk through the woods, but there is not a lot to see here.

You start the hike from the eastern side of the parking lot (the post is painted with Traces Trail on it). You’ll pass a few concrete posts that mark where the trail intersects with other trails, but just stay on the Traces Trail throughout.

One interesting thing on the trail is you will eventually come to a sign in front of a fenced-in area. The area is being fenced to determine if white-tailed deer are damaging local flora. The fences are high enough that deer can not jump them. We didn’t see much difference from the fenced-in area and where we were, so it will be interesting to see if the research leads to any findings.

We didn't see much wildlife on the hike. — We didn’t see much wildlife on the hike.

Christine Says

There really aren’t too many things to say about this trail. It was short and pleasant, but had little in the way of scenery or unique features. On the day we walked this trail, a big storm system was just leaving the area, so the weather was cool and very breezy. I actually remember the sound of the wind rustling in the trees more than I remember anything about the trail. It was a beautiful day to be outdoors.

As Adam mentioned, there were some historical artifacts along the trail. We saw crumbling stone walls, overgrown old roads and remnant apple trees mixed in with newer growth. The cultural history of the park is interesting and still somewhat controversial. Many people aren’t aware that Shenandoah’s land was essentially stolen from the mountain people who had lived there long before the idea for this national park was born. The park was authorized in 1926. From that point on, government officials systematically (and often forcefully) removed families from their land. The mountain people were portrayed in the media as ignorant and uneducated. Newspaper articles made it sound like the government was doing these people a favor by relocating them to settlements outside the park. If you read the history and letters from the original park residents, you’ll see that these people were not country bumpkins who needed the government’s care. They were mostly hardworking families who loved the land they had long called home.

Trail Notes

Distance – 1.7 miles loop
Elevation Change – Maybe a couple hundred feet
Difficulty – 1. Other than two short climbs near the beginning of the trail, this hike is relatively level.
Trail Conditions – 4. The trail is well-maintained and easy to walk.
Views –1. You get a few glimpses of a view through the trees, but mostly this is just a pleasant walk through the woods.
Waterfalls/streams –0. Non-existent.
Wildlife – 1 A few birds and squirrels.
Ease to Navigate – 3. There are a few junctions along this trail, but if you keep following the markers for the Traces Trail, you can’t go wrong.
Solitude – 2. This trail’s easy terrain, short distance and location next to Mathews Arm Campground make this a popular trail, especially for families.

Directions to trailhead:
Follow Skyline Drive to the Mathews Arm Campground at mile marker 22. Park at the amphitheater and follow the blue-blazed Traces Trail that departs from the east end of the parking lot.

Lewis Spring Falls

July 9, 2009August 26, 20154 Comments

Lewis Spring Falls is a hike leading to the fourth tallest waterfall in the park. It starts out from the Big Meadows amphitheater.

This nice view of the layered mountains comes near the end of the hike. This view is much more impressive than the waterfall this trail is named for.

Adam Says…

In my opinion, Lewis Spring Falls is decent for a waterfall hike. If you are visiting Shenandoah National Park, I would recommend Dark Hollow Falls, Rose River Falls, South River Falls, Doyles River or White Oak Canyon before this one.

We started this trail from the amphitheater at Big Meadows. You can also take off from the Big Meadows Campground, adding an extra .8 miles to your trip, but we feel this is the best way to see what is necessary. From the parking lot, you’ll go down a very short spur to connect with the Appalachian Trail. After a short distance, there is a cement post to let you know to leave the AT and proceed on the trail to the right for the Lewis Spring Falls.

Shortly after we started the Lewis Spring Falls trail, we had a great barred owl viewing. We heard a bunch of birds causing quite a racket. We stopped to try to identify the birds, when I spotted the barred owl on the tree. There were at least six chickadees that were dive-bombing the owl. Our guess is that they were trying to protect chicks nearby. As the owl looked in one direction, the chickadees took turns diving down to snip on the owl’s back. It reminded me of the old elementary school trick, when you would tap on someone’s shoulder to make them look behind their shoulder when nobody was there. We got to watch this interaction for several minutes before the owl finally flew away to a different tree, giving the chickadees a moment of victory. However, the owl may ultimately win the war when the sun sets.

The trail down to the falls is quite rocky. While it is well-traveled, the trail is very steep downhill. This will make you constantly have to watch where you are placing your feet, as rocks and gravel are very loose. Once you have traveled 1.2 miles, you will come to a post showing that the viewpoint is shortly ahead. This post also includes the junction of the trail for your return loop. You will cross a stream but there are tons of rocks in the trail to make this an easy crossing.

On your return trip from the viewpoint, shortly after crossing the stream, you will take the spur trail to the right that connects to the Appalachian Trail. This is a constant uphill through more rocky terrain for .7 miles. You will come to a gravel road and a cement post showing that the AT trail junction is up ahead 70 yards. Take the AT to the left (north) to get back to the parking lot. The AT is definitely easier to walk, but the trail stays uphill at a slightly lesser grade. You will eventually come up behind the Big Meadows Lodge. There is a nice viewpoint to the west from a rocky overlook, which may give you a nice place to view a sunset and still be close to the parking lot.

Along with the owl, lots of birds and several deer - we saw lots of chipmunks along the way. — Along with the owl, lots of birds and several deer – we saw lots of chipmunks along the way.

One side note is that before you reach the Lodge, there is a side trail to Blackrock, another popular trail to view a sunset. This has been closed until further notice due to Peregrine Falcons nesting.

Christine Says…

I told Adam I was going to write a one word entry for this hike and that word was going to be “lame”! Maybe I was in a crabby mood on this particular evening, but I still think there are so many nicer waterfall hikes in the park. We hadn’t hiked to Lewis Spring Falls in three or four years. I had remembered the falls being substantially more impressive than what we encountered on this particular night. Even with all the wet weather we’ve had this spring/summer, the waterfall was down to a trickle. When we got to the viewing point, I told Adam that the faucet in our bathtub has a more impressive flow. My other problem was the light. Even in late evening, the sun was still high enough in the western sky to put the waterfall in direct sunlight – so, alas – no nice photos of the falls.

The terrain on the trail down to the falls is tough going – steep, scrabbly rocks that force you to look down and pay attention to every step you take. I always prefer to hike places where I can look around and enjoy the trail-side scenery instead of constantly following every move of my hiking boots.

We only saw one other pair of hikers along the trail – a couple guys trying to find their way down to the base of the falls. Another drawback to the Lewis Spring Falls is the fact that there is no good, safe way to reach the base of the falls. Our hiking book advises explicitly not to attempt to climb down – there is no trail and there have actually been fatalities at this waterfall. I do know a few people who have climbed to the bottom, none of them said it was worthwhile. We watched the two guys make a couple unsuccessful attempts to descend before they eventually gave up.

The hike back up is on the long arm of the loop, so it’s a long, steady uphill back to the amphitheater. By the time we got back, I was pretty tired and hungry. I’m definitely a morning person through and through. Evening hikes, even the short and easy ones, really have a tendency to kick my butt. If I was pressed to share my favorite thing about this hike, it would have to be the owl sighting. That was pretty cool.

Trail Notes

Distance – 3.0 mile loop trail (longer options are also possible depending on how you connect to the trail)
Elevation Change – 990 feet.
Difficulty – 3. The route we hiked was moderate.
Trail Conditions – 2. The AT section is nice footing, but the trail down to the falls and back up is quite treacherous.
Views –2. There are views from the overlook near the falls, but the nicest mountain views are near the end of the hike.
Waterfalls/streams –3. Decent waterfall views, but because you can’t get to the bottom easily, you can only appreciate it from afar.
Wildlife –3. We have heard a bear on this trail before. We saw a barred owl and several deer near the Big Meadows area.
Ease to Navigate – 4. The trail is easy to follow and marked with blue blazes.
Solitude – 2. You’re likely to see some people here since the close proximity to Big Meadows.

Directions to trailhead:

Follow Skyline Drive to the Big Meadows Area near mile 51.2. Follow the signs to the amphitheater. At the parking lot near the amphitheater, you will see the post marking the trailhead.

White Oak Canyon

July 5, 2009April 29, 202223 Comments

White Oak Canyon is one of Shenandoah’s most popular waterfall hikes. The trail begins directly across Skyline Drive from Skyland Resort.

Upper Falls of White Oak Canyon — The upper falls of White Oak Canyon plunge 86 feet to a pool below.

Christine Says…

Adam and I set out early on Saturday morning to hike the White Oak Canyon trail. Our primary goal was to avoid the holiday crowds, so we were quite pleased to arrive at 7:30 and find just one other car in the parking lot.

The park is always quiet and beautiful in the early morning.

The morning was almost chilly – sunny, no humidity and a crisp breeze blowing. It felt more like mid-May than the Fourth of July. I don’t know about you, but I always associate the 4th with sultry, hazy, buggy weather. Since I’m not a fan of typical Virginia summer weather, I thought the conditions were perfect for our hike. The only thing I wasn’t thrilled about was the bright sun shining up above in the sky. Sunny weather is great for hiking and enjoying the outdoors, but it complicates opportunities for waterfall and forest photography. The strong overhead light makes it nearly impossible to properly expose images. I was kind of bummed about that, but decided I was just going to enjoy the hike and not worry about getting good photos.

This rock formation sits at the junction of the Limberlost and the White Oak Canyon trail. Pictured below: the trail junction.

The trail makes its way down from the parking lot, crossing the Limberlost Trail twice. After leaving the remains of the hemlock forest around Limberlost, the trail quickly descends into White Oak Canyon. Ship-sized boulders start coming into view as you approach the stream. The stream starts off as a trickle, but quickly picks up energy as little rivulets of run-off join the flow. There are many small falls along the stream. In places, the sheer canyon walls soar upward from the water. The canyon is a rugged and wild place.

A pool along the White Oak Canyon stream. Pictured below: the stream passes through a narrow, rocky slot.

As you approach the upper falls, the sound of running water becomes increasingly audible in the woods. There are two footbridges to cross before you come to the viewpoint of the upper falls. This view is beautiful, but with a little extra effort you can reach the base of the waterfall and have an even nicer view. On warm days, the pool at the base of the falls is a popular swimming spot.

Luckily, the weather decided to throw a favor my way. Just as we reached the falls, a large band of clouds passed over the area. It literally went from crystal clear blue skies to thick overcast in the span of five minutes. I was able to photograph several spots along the waterfall before the clouds blew out as quickly as they appeared. I even got knee-deep in the water at one spot to get the composition I wanted. It was so slimy and slippery, so I used my tripod as a crutch. I saw lots of brook trout darting in the pool. They’re so pretty and colorful. They almost look like autumn leaves swimming in the water.

Cubs on the White Oak Canyon Trail. Pictured below: another shot of one cub and a view of momma bear’s back.

On the hike back, I stopped to take a water break. As I was sitting on a trail-side rock, I noticed a glossy, black shape moving quietly through the woods about 50 feet uphill from the trail. I mouthed “BEAR!” to Adam. A moment later, the sow and her two young cubs came into clear view. We sat and watched the family for about ten minutes. The momma bear moved parallel to the trail, turning over rocks looking for food. The cubs bounced along behind her. When they finally noticed us watching them, the cubs darted up a tree and watched us curiously. Momma bear glanced up a few times, but mostly continued feeding along the way. She soon ambled uphill and away from the trail. With just a quick look over her shoulder, she called the cubs to her. The cubs slid down the tree and scampered off into the woods with their mother. Seeing the bears was the highlight of the hike.

As we continued our return trip, we passed dozens of hikers. When we got back up to the Limberlost, there was even a church group hiking with 40+ members, lawn chairs, musical instruments. I’m so glad we hiked the trail early and were able to enjoy the solitude. You really can’t beat having a gorgeous waterfall and a great bear sighting all to yourselves!

Adam Says…

The White Oak Canyon trail is a great hike if you’re into streams and waterfalls. This hike and Dark Hollow Falls are probably the two most popular trails in all of Shenandoah National Park. Since this trail is so close to Skyland, it appeals to a lot of people. There is a reason why the parking lot for this trail is so large. This was the first time that we had hiked this trail from Skyline Drive. Typically, we have visited the lower section of falls and approached the hike from State Road 600 near Syria, VA and Graves Mountain. Going from the lower falls to the upper falls is quite steep, so if you want an easier day hike, I would recommend doing either the hike to the upper falls or the hike to the lower falls (instead of the full 8.2 mile loop).

Taking off from the parking lot on Skyline Drive, the trail is very well-traveled and smooth until you start seeing the water to your side. At .3 miles, you will cross the Limberlost Trail which you could add to your trip if you desire. The trail then presents more rocky conditions and you do have to watch your feet. As you hike along the water, you will see several spots to pause and admire the rushing water. At 2.2 miles, you will reach the top of the Upper Falls. There is a horse trail that cuts the trail perpendicularly and you will notice the hitch posts for horses on the trail. The water looks very peaceful here, but it soon rushes down into a deep chasm.

Scenery near the top of the first falls.

The viewpoint at 2.4 miles has some great views of the falls from above and the canyon cutting through the forest below. You will also see some dead hemlocks standing along the gorge. I can just imagine how magnificent this would have looked with the hemlocks still there. From the viewpoint, continue on the trail for another .3 miles. This is a sharp descent, but it will lead to the view from the base of the falls. You will come to a cement post which lets you know you are .2 miles from the next set of falls. This is also the marker that states you’ve reached the base of the falls. I think the park has abandoned an official trail to the pool at the bottom of the Upper Falls, but if you make your way along the rocks heading north from the cement marker, you will shortly come to a “No Camping” sign. Continue a little further and you will be able to see the impressive falls from the base, which includes the pool where the waterfall plunges. This is definitely worth taking the time to view.

The pool at the base of the falls is a perfect swimming hole.

We headed back from this point, since the other falls are not quite as impressive. This made for about a 5.4 mile hike. I have a feeling that a lot of people continue to do the whole hike without planning ahead. There is even a sign at the base of the Upper Falls warning hikers not to overestimate their hiking skills. Once you pass the upper falls, the continuation of the hike down is quite steep. The phrase in hiking, “What goes down, must come up” definitely applies here. The hike back up would be a steady uphill climb that would likely exhaust people who haven’t planned appropriately.

We both enjoyed seeing the momma bear and two cubs frolicking near the trail. We were able to show/warn two other hikers about the bears presence. I could tell they really enjoyed the viewing, too. The bear wisely moved away from the trail, probably sensing that many more hikers were headed in her direction.

Trail Notes

Distance – Anywhere from 4.6 to 8.2 miles (we hiked about 5.4 miles)
Elevation Change – Around 1200 feet. (2450 if you do the entire 8.2 miles)
Difficulty – 3. The route we hiked was moderate.
Trail Conditions – 4. The trail is well-traveled and well-maintained.
Views –0. No views – the entire hike is down in the woods.
Waterfalls/streams –4. One of the park’s nicest waterfall hikes. If you do the shorter out-and-back, you’ll see one large waterfall and many smaller ones. If you hike the full loop, there are six waterfalls.
Wildlife – 4. We saw a bear with her cubs, lots of chipmunks and a rabbit.
Ease to Navigate – 4. The trail is easy to follow and marked with blue blazes.
Solitude – 0. Unless you hike this trail very early in the morning, expect to see substantial crowds. It’s one of the most popular hikes in the park.

Directions to trailhead:

Follow Skyline Drive to the Skyland Resort area. The parking lot for White Oak Canyon is on the east side of the drive between mile markers 42 and 43. It’s almost directly across the drive from the south entrance to Skyland.

Turk Mountain

June 28, 2009April 29, 202218 Comments

Turk Mountain is a 2.2 mile hike of moderate difficulty. The trail is located at the far southern end of the park, and is less-traveled than many of the park’s other hikes.

Wookie and Adam enjoy the summit of Turk Mountain.

Adam Says…

We weren’t feeling terribly energetic on Saturday, so we decided to do a short hike in the southern district of Shenandoah National Park. Since it was cool, we even got to bring our pug, Wookie, along. The Turk Mountain trail is only 2.2 miles long, but it seems a bit longer due to the uphill portion. When you start, you will be on the Appalachian Trail for .2 miles. Then you will split off to join the Turk Mountain trail (marked by blue blazes). The last half of a mile is all uphill. During the climb, the side of the mountain blocks all breezes. We recommend hiking this on a cooler day with low humidity. Most of the times we have hiked this trail, it has been hot and humid, and when the breeze is blocked it feels stifling. There are some views to the east at about .9 miles into your hike at the last switchback, but the views are much better ahead. When you reach the summit, the breeze will instantly greet you again. Continue just past the marker to climb onto the summit rocks. You will get some great views of a large talus slope and the valley below to the west.

The talus slope below the summit is expansive and impressive.

This is a fun hike that a lot of people try due to the shortness in distance and close proximity to the southern entrance to Shenandoah National Park.

Christine Says…

As we entered the park on Saturday morning, I was telling Adam that I don’t feel like we see as much wildlife in the southern district as we do elsewhere in the park. Wouldn’t you know, as soon as the words finished coming out of my mouth, we passed a huge bear sitting right on the side of the road. I like to think he was serving as the park’s official greeter that day. A little later we passed a doe and fawn and a turkey with her brood of babies. What are baby turkeys called – turklings? turklets?

I digress… and now onto the hike! Turk Mountain is a fun, short hike that we’ve done several times in the past year. It’s a hike I choose a lot when I want an excuse to go to Sonic (this hike is near the Waynesboro park entrance. That town is home to our area’s only Sonic). I just love their coconut creme pie milkshakes. 🙂

Wow, I digress again. We had beautiful weather for this trip along the Turk Mountain trail. For the first half of the hike, we enjoyed cool, pleasant, breezy weather. The conditions were ideal for hiking, and I started wondering if we’d made a mistake in not selecting a longer hike. By the time we passed through the saddle and started our uphill climb, I was glad we’d decided to keep things short. The uphill portion of Turk Mountain isn’t terribly steep, I think I was just a bit tired from my busy week.

Indian Pipes along the trail. Pictured below: Butterflies and other wildflowers were also seen along the trail.

When we arrived at the summit of Turk Mountain, we had the entire rocky jumble all to ourselves. We climbed around on the rocks and enjoyed the crisp, gentle wind. The rocks at the summit of Turk Mountain are somewhat different looking than other rocks in the park. I don’t know much about geology, but the color seems to have more pink and gray undertones than other summits. Because this summit receives less foot-traffic than other SNP hikes, the rocks are in better shape – still covered with lichen and other plants. When you visit more popular summits like Old Rag or Stony Man, be sure to notice barren the rocks are.

The rocks on the Turk Mountain summit are different.

Wookie was so cute climbing around like a tiny mountain goat. I’m always amazed by how confident and agile he is on rock scrambles. The view from the top was a bit hazy, so I didn’t get any great photos. But it was still a fun hike and a very pleasant morning in the park.

Wookie Says…

It’s been a while since I’ve gotten to accompany my masters on a hike. The last hike I did with them was the Dry Run Falls hike and I got a lot of ticks that day. Since the temperature was cool for late June, I was allowed to come along. This hike had a few things that I like – scrambling over rocks and views. I’m really good at climbing over rocks, so I was able to do this pretty well. I wouldn’t recommend all dogs to attempt this hike, since you really have to watch your paws or you could hurt yourself. Adam had to carry me over a few precarious rocks because I have short legs. However, I was able to confidently go back quicker than he could. On the way back down from the summit, I ran across a couple hiking up. For some reason, the woman cowered behind her husband and didn’t want to be near me. I tried to sniff her leg and she jerked it back quickly. I guess she thought I was really scary or vicious. Or maybe she was intimidated by my colorful Aztec-pattern collar. The bonus for the day is that I didn’t get any ticks on me.

Trail Notes

Distance –2.2 miles out-and-back
Elevation Change – 690 feet
Difficulty – 3. This hike has some nice flat parts to it, but the elevation change is over a short distance, making this a strong uphill for a portion.
Trail Conditions – 3. Some of the trail is very smooth, but other parts are covered by sharp, pointy rocks.
Views –3. There are some nice views from the top, but there are better hikes with more expansive views. The talus slope makes for some interesting scenery to add to the view.
Waterfalls/streams –0. Non-existent.
Wildlife – 1. You likely won’t see a lot here due to the steepness of the trail. The summit does provide for nice hawk and bird viewing.
Ease to Navigate – 4. Just one turn from the AT on to the Turk Mountain Trail.
Solitude – 3. There aren’t as many visitors to the southern section as other areas of SNP, but it is fairly popular. The summit rocks don’t lead to a lot of room to get views, so you may be sharing the beauty with others during mid-day hikes.

Directions to trailhead:

Follow Skyline Drive to mile 94.1. Park at the Turk Gap parking lot. Cross the drive and pick up the trail.