Lewis Spring Falls

Lewis Spring Falls is a hike leading to the fourth tallest waterfall in the park.  It starts out from the Big Meadows amphitheater.

This nice view of the layered mountains comes near the end of the hike. This view is much more impressive than the waterfall this trail is named for.
This nice view of the layered mountains comes near the end of the hike. This view is much more impressive than the waterfall this trail is named for.

Adam Says…

In my opinion, Lewis Spring Falls is decent for a waterfall hike.  If you are visiting Shenandoah National Park, I would recommend Dark Hollow Falls, Rose River Falls, South River Falls, Doyles River or White Oak Canyon before this one.

We started this trail from the amphitheater at Big Meadows.  You can also take off from the Big Meadows Campground, adding an extra .8 miles to your trip, but we feel this is the best way to see what is necessary. From the parking lot, you’ll go down a very short spur to connect with the Appalachian Trail.  After a short distance, there is a cement post to let you know to leave the AT and proceed on the trail to the right for the Lewis Spring Falls.

The Barred Owl
The Barred Owl

Shortly after we started the Lewis Spring Falls trail, we had a great barred owl viewing.  We heard a bunch of birds causing quite a racket.  We stopped to try to identify the birds, when I spotted the barred owl on the tree.  There were at least six chickadees that were dive-bombing the owl.  Our guess is that they were trying to protect chicks nearby.  As the owl looked in one direction, the chickadees took turns diving down to snip on the owl’s back.  It reminded me of the old elementary school trick, when you would tap on someone’s shoulder to make them look behind their shoulder when nobody was there.  We got to watch this interaction for several minutes before the owl finally flew away to a different tree, giving the chickadees a moment of victory.  However, the owl may ultimately win the war when the sun sets.

The trail down to the falls is quite rocky.  While it is well-traveled, the trail is very steep downhill.  This will make you constantly have to watch where you are placing your feet, as rocks and gravel are very loose.  Once you have traveled 1.2 miles, you will come to a post showing that the viewpoint is shortly ahead.  This post also includes the junction of the trail for your return loop.  You will cross a stream but there are tons of rocks in the trail to make this an easy crossing.

On your return trip from the viewpoint, shortly after crossing the stream, you will take the spur trail to the right that connects to the Appalachian Trail.  This is a constant uphill through more rocky terrain for .7 miles.  You will come to a gravel road and a cement post showing that the AT trail junction is up ahead 70 yards.  Take the AT to the left (north) to get back to the parking lot.  The AT is definitely easier to walk, but the trail stays uphill at a slightly lesser grade.  You will eventually come up behind the Big Meadows Lodge.  There is a nice viewpoint to the west from a rocky overlook, which may give you a nice place to view a sunset and still be close to the parking lot.

Along with the owl, lots of birds and several deer - we saw lots of chipmunks along the way.
Along with the owl, lots of birds and several deer – we saw lots of chipmunks along the way.

One side note is that before you reach the Lodge, there is a side trail to Blackrock, another popular trail to view a sunset.  This has been closed until further notice due to Peregrine Falcons nesting.

Christine Says…

I told Adam I was going to write a one word entry for this hike and that word was going to be “lame”!  Maybe I was in a crabby mood on this particular evening, but I still think there are so many nicer waterfall hikes in the park.  We hadn’t hiked to Lewis Spring Falls in three or four years.  I had remembered the falls being substantially more impressive than what we encountered on this particular night.  Even with all the wet weather we’ve had this spring/summer, the waterfall was down to a trickle.  When we got to the viewing point, I told Adam that the faucet in our bathtub has a more impressive flow.  My other problem was the light.  Even in late evening, the sun was still high enough in the western sky to put the waterfall in direct sunlight – so, alas – no nice photos of the falls.

Lewis Spring Falls
Lewis Spring Falls

The terrain on the trail down to the falls is tough going – steep, scrabbly rocks that force you to look down and pay attention to every step you take.  I always prefer to hike places where I can look around and enjoy the trail-side scenery instead of constantly following every move of my hiking boots.

We only saw one other pair of hikers along the trail – a couple guys trying to find their way down to the base of the falls. Another drawback to the Lewis Spring Falls is the fact that there is no good, safe way to reach the base of the falls.  Our hiking book advises explicitly not to attempt to climb down – there is no trail and there have actually been fatalities at this waterfall. I do know a few people who have climbed to the bottom, none of them said it was worthwhile. We watched the two guys make a couple unsuccessful attempts to descend before they eventually gave up.

The hike back up is on the long arm of the loop, so it’s a long, steady uphill back to the amphitheater.  By the time we got back, I was pretty tired and hungry.  I’m definitely a morning person through and through.  Evening hikes, even the short and easy ones,  really have a tendency to kick my butt.  If I was pressed to share my favorite thing about this hike, it would have to be the owl sighting.  That was pretty cool.

Trail Notes

  • Distance – 3.0 mile loop trail (longer options are also possible depending on how you connect to the trail)
  • Elevation Change – 990 feet.
  • Difficulty 3.  The route we hiked was moderate.
  • Trail Conditions 2.  The AT section is nice footing, but the trail down to the falls and back up is quite treacherous.
  • Views –2. There are views from the overlook near the falls, but the nicest mountain views are near the end of the hike.
  • Waterfalls/streams 3. Decent waterfall views, but because you can’t get to the bottom easily, you can only appreciate it from afar.
  • Wildlife 3. We have heard a bear on this trail before.  We saw a barred owl and several deer near the Big Meadows area.
  • Ease to Navigate 4.  The trail is easy to follow and marked with blue blazes.
  • Solitude2. You’re likely to see some people here since the close proximity to Big Meadows.

Directions to trailhead:

Follow Skyline Drive to the Big Meadows Area near mile 51.2.  Follow the signs to the amphitheater.  At the parking lot near the amphitheater, you will see the post marking the trailhead.

White Oak Canyon

White Oak Canyon is one of Shenandoah’s most popular waterfall hikes.  The trail begins directly across Skyline Drive from Skyland Resort.

Upper Falls of White Oak Canyon
The upper falls of White Oak Canyon plunge 86 feet to a pool below.

Christine Says…

Adam and I set out early on Saturday morning to hike the White Oak Canyon trail.  Our primary goal was to avoid the holiday crowds, so we were quite pleased to arrive at 7:30 and find just one other car in the parking lot.

The park is always quiet and beautiful in the early morning.
The park is always quiet and beautiful in the early morning.

The morning was almost chilly – sunny, no humidity and a crisp breeze blowing.  It felt more like mid-May than the Fourth of July.  I don’t know about you, but I always associate the 4th with sultry, hazy, buggy weather.  Since I’m not a fan of typical Virginia summer weather, I thought the conditions were perfect for our hike.  The only thing I wasn’t thrilled about was the bright sun shining up above in the sky.  Sunny weather is great for hiking and enjoying the outdoors, but it complicates opportunities for waterfall and forest photography.  The strong overhead light makes it nearly impossible to properly expose images.  I was kind of bummed about that, but decided I was just going to enjoy the hike and not worry about getting good photos.

This rock formation sits at the junction of the Limberlost and the White Oak Canyon trail.
This rock formation sits at the junction of the Limberlost and the White Oak Canyon trail. Pictured below: the trail junction.

The trail makes its way down from the parking lot, crossing the Limberlost Trail twice.  After leaving the remains of the hemlock forest around Limberlost, the trail quickly descends into White Oak Canyon.  Ship-sized boulders start coming into view as you approach the stream.  The stream starts off as a trickle, but quickly picks up energy as little rivulets of run-off join the flow.  There are many small falls along the stream.  In places, the sheer canyon walls soar upward from the water.  The canyon is a rugged and wild place.

A pool along the White Oak Canyon stream.
A pool along the White Oak Canyon stream. Pictured below:  the stream passes through a narrow, rocky slot.

As you approach the upper falls, the sound of running water becomes increasingly audible in the woods.  There are two footbridges to cross before you come to the viewpoint of the upper falls.  This view is beautiful, but with a little extra effort you can reach the base of the waterfall and have an even nicer view.  On warm days, the pool at the base of the falls is a popular swimming spot.

A footbridge across the stream.
A footbridge across the stream.

Luckily, the weather decided to throw a favor my way.  Just as we reached the falls, a large band of clouds passed over the area.  It literally went from crystal clear blue skies to thick overcast in the span of five minutes.  I was able to photograph several spots along the waterfall before the clouds blew out as quickly as they appeared.  I even got knee-deep in the water at one spot to get the composition I wanted.  It was so slimy and slippery, so I used my tripod as a crutch.  I saw lots of brook trout darting in the pool.  They’re so pretty and colorful.  They almost look like autumn leaves swimming in the water.

Cubs on the White Oak Canyon Trail.
Cubs on the White Oak Canyon Trail. Pictured below: another shot of one cub and a view of momma bear’s back.

cub_2

On the hike back, I stopped to take a water break.  As I was sitting on a trail-side rock, I noticed a glossy, black shape moving quietly through the woods about 50 feet uphill from the trail.  I mouthed “BEAR!” to Adam.   A moment later, the sow and her two young cubs came into clear view.  We sat and watched the family for about ten minutes.  The momma bear moved parallel to the trail, turning over rocks looking for food.  The cubs bounced along behind her.  When they finally noticed us watching them, the cubs darted up a tree and watched us curiously.  Momma bear glanced up a few times, but mostly continued feeding along the way.  She soon ambled uphill and away from the trail.  With just a quick look over her shoulder, she called the cubs to her.  The cubs slid down the tree and scampered off into the woods with their mother.  Seeing the bears was the highlight of the hike.

As we continued our return trip, we passed dozens of hikers.  When we got back up to the Limberlost, there was even a church group hiking with 40+ members, lawn chairs, musical instruments.  I’m so glad we hiked the trail early and were able to enjoy the solitude.  You really can’t beat having a gorgeous waterfall and a great bear sighting all to yourselves!

Adam Says…

The White Oak Canyon trail is a great hike if you’re into streams and waterfalls.  This hike and Dark Hollow Falls are probably the two most popular trails in all of Shenandoah National Park.  Since this trail is so close to Skyland, it appeals to a lot of people.  There is a reason why the parking lot for this trail is so large.  This was the first time that we had hiked this trail from Skyline Drive.  Typically, we have visited the lower section of falls and approached the hike from State Road 600 near Syria, VA and Graves Mountain.  Going from the lower falls to the upper falls is quite steep, so if you want an easier day hike, I would recommend doing either the hike to the upper falls or the hike to the lower falls (instead of the full 8.2 mile loop).

Upper Falls of White Oak Canyon
Upper Falls of White Oak Canyon

Taking off from the parking lot on Skyline Drive, the trail is very well-traveled and smooth until you start seeing the water to your side.  At .3 miles, you will cross the Limberlost Trail which you could add to your trip if you desire.  The trail then presents more rocky conditions and you do have to watch your feet.  As you hike along the water, you will see several spots to pause and admire the rushing water.  At 2.2 miles, you will reach the top of the Upper Falls.  There is a horse trail that cuts the trail perpendicularly and you will notice the hitch posts for horses on the trail.  The water looks very peaceful here, but it soon rushes down into a deep chasm.

Scenery near the top of the first falls.
Scenery near the top of the first falls.

The viewpoint at 2.4 miles has some great views of the falls from above and the canyon cutting through the forest below.  You will also see some dead hemlocks standing along the gorge.  I can just imagine how magnificent this would have looked with the hemlocks still there.  From the viewpoint, continue on the trail for another .3 miles.  This is a sharp descent, but it will lead to the view from the base of the falls.  You will come to a cement post which lets you know you are .2 miles from the next set of falls.  This is also the marker that states you’ve reached the base of the falls.  I think the park has abandoned an official trail to the pool at the bottom of the Upper Falls, but if you make your way along the rocks heading north from the cement marker, you will shortly come to a “No Camping” sign.  Continue a little further and you will be able to see the impressive falls from the base, which includes the pool where the waterfall plunges.  This is definitely worth taking the time to view.

The pool at the base of the falls is a perfect swimming hole.
The pool at the base of the falls is a perfect swimming hole.

We headed back from this point, since the other falls are not quite as impressive.  This made for about a 5.4 mile hike.  I have a feeling that a lot of people continue to do the whole hike without planning ahead.  There is even a sign at the base of the Upper Falls warning hikers not to overestimate their hiking skills.  Once you pass the upper falls, the continuation of the hike down is quite steep.  The phrase in hiking, “What goes down, must come up” definitely applies here.  The hike back up would be a steady uphill climb that would likely exhaust people who haven’t planned appropriately.

We both enjoyed seeing the momma bear and two cubs frolicking near the trail.  We were able to show/warn two other hikers about the bears presence.   I could tell they really enjoyed the viewing, too.  The bear wisely moved away from the trail, probably sensing that many more hikers were headed in her direction.

Trail Notes

  • Distance – Anywhere from 4.6 to 8.2 miles (we hiked about 5.4 miles)
  • Elevation Change – Around 1200 feet. (2450 if you do the entire 8.2 miles)
  • Difficulty 3.  The route we hiked was moderate.
  • Trail Conditions 4.  The trail is well-traveled and well-maintained.
  • Views –0. No views – the entire hike is down in the woods.
  • Waterfalls/streams 4. One of the park’s nicest waterfall hikes.  If you do the shorter out-and-back, you’ll see one large waterfall and many smaller ones.  If you hike the full loop, there are six waterfalls.
  • Wildlife 4. We saw a bear with her cubs, lots of chipmunks and a rabbit.
  • Ease to Navigate 4.  The trail is easy to follow and marked with blue blazes.
  • Solitude0. Unless you hike this trail very early in the morning, expect to see substantial crowds. It’s one of the most popular hikes in the park.

Directions to trailhead:

Follow Skyline Drive to the Skyland Resort area.  The parking lot for White Oak Canyon is on the east side of the drive between mile markers 42 and 43.  It’s almost directly across the drive from the south entrance to Skyland.

Crabtree Falls

Crabtree Falls is probably Virginia’s best-known waterfall hike. The hike is located a short distance from the Blue Ridge Parkway. The trail climbs alongside the falls and ends at an overlook of the Tye River Valley.

This is the first large cascade you'll encounter on the hike.
This is the first large cascade you’ll encounter on the hike.

Christine Says…

Crabtree Falls, located in George Washington National Forest’s Glenwood & Pedlar Ranger Districts, is one of the classic “must-hike” Virginia trails. When the area is experiencing good amount of rainfall, the 1,200 foot series of falls can be truly impressive.

Adam and I left our house at 5:45 a.m. on the morning of this hike. I wanted to get to the area before the sun started shining into the gorge. Sunny days usually mean crappy waterfall photos. On the morning of our hike, the area was forecast to have quite a bit of fog. I was really excited and had visions of the falls – cascading through the mist, lined with lush, blooming mountain laurel. Unfortunately, it was not to be. When we arrived, the fog was gone, the sun was already high in the sky and the laurel had mostly gone to seed. Nonetheless, I was still able to find a few shady spots along the way to take photographs.

The beautiful arched bridge over the Tye River.
The beautiful arched bridge over the Tye River.

The trailhead is located at the upper parking lot of the Crabtree Falls area. There is a $3.00 fee to use this area. Even though the trail starts from the upper lot, don’t miss walking down to the lower lot to take a walk across the beautiful laminated wooden arch bridge that crosses the Tye River. It was delivered to the area in a single piece and has graced the spot since 1978. Crossing the bridge used to be part of the hike, but improvements to the area expanded parking, added restrooms and shortened the trail.

As you start the hike, don’t neglect reading the bulletin board at the trailhead. It provides many cautionary tales concerning the waterfall’s deadly terrain.  As of June 2015, 29 people have fallen to their deaths at Crabtree Falls – most of them teenagers and young adults. The rocks surrounding the stream are coated with transparent algae. It doesn’t look wet or slippery, but it’s honestly as slick as grease in some spots. The forest service is always warning hikers to stay off waterfalls – but they really mean it at Crabtree.

Adam climbs the steps along the Crabtree Trail.
Adam climbs the steps along the Crabtree Trail.

The first impressive cascade is at the very bottom of the trail and is accessible along a level, paved walkway. The trail to the summit starts on the right side of the paved path, and climbs quickly upward. The trail makes use of steps, railings, wooden walkways and switchbacks to traverse the steep terrain. Some of the switchbacks meander quite a distance from Crabtree Stream, but the sound of rushing water is ever present in the woods. You never move so far from the stream that you can not hear the sound of the waterfall. It’s such a soothing sound. There are five major cascades (and many smaller ones) that make up Crabtree Falls.

The trail is mostly well-graded and maintained. There are a few rocky sections, and some of the rocks may be loose or slippery. On the day we hiked, the trail was really muddy from all the recent rain, but it was still easily passable. I think most of the pretty sections of the falls are within the first three-quarters of the hike. The big, dome-shaped cascade at the top is impressive to see, but it just doesn’t photograph well. At the Tye Valley overlook at the top, you can’t see the falls below you at all. If you hadn’t just walked along the waterfall on your hike, you might not even believe it’s there. The view from the top is just so-so – mostly just tree-covered mountainsides. It pales in comparison to the waterfall views. Most hikers choose to turn around at this point, but you also have the option to continue the hike along the stream, ending up at Crabtree Meadows.

There are discrepancies about the length of this hike. On the internet, I’ve seen it listed everywhere from 2.2 to 4 miles. The on-site plaque at the base of the falls says the hike is two miles to the top, for a total 4 mile out-and-back. Our Blue Ridge Parkway hiking guide lists the hike at 3.4 miles, out-and-back. It seems like the happy medium distance, so we’ll go with that measure.

Adam Says…

The hike along Crabtree Falls is one of the best waterfall hikes, since you hike along the falls for most of the way.  I haven’t experienced any other hike in Virginia that allows you to walk along such an impressive series of falls.

Another beautiful section of falls along the trail.
Another beautiful section of falls along the trail.

This was our second trip to Crabtree Falls.  We were hoping to go in the late spring or early summer for views of mountain laurel along the stream.  It looks like in this area, we just missed the peak by about two weeks or the laurel didn’t bloom as well this year.  When you reach the top of the falls after a 1.7 mile hike, there is a stone platform at the top that provides you with nice views of the Blue Ridge Mountains.

The view from the top.
The view from the top.

Near the entrance to the paved trail you will see a small family cemetery.  These are actually distant relatives of mine.  My great grandmother was a Fitzgerald and owned the farm next to the McCormick Farm.  My mother used to visit that farm often when she was little.  If you are interested in history, the McCormick Farm is open to visitors and has lots of exhibits showing the early farming techniques.  Cyrus McCormick was the inventor of the mechanical reaper which revolutionized farming.

This is a great hike that a lot of families do before picnicking at one of the tables near the lot entrance.  I know we will visit this location time and again.

Trail Notes

  • Distance 3.4miles out-and-back.
  • Elevation Change – 1000 feet
  • Difficulty – 3. This is a fairly steep trail with plenty of switchbacks.  However, most people will stop along the way to enjoy the falls, so it breaks up the pace.
  • Trail Conditions – 3. There are lots of pointy rocks along part of the trail, but there are some sections that are very nice.  The view to the lower falls is even paved for wheelchair access.
  • Views – 2. At the top of the falls, you get a decent view of the Tye River Valley
  • Waterfalls/streams – 4.5. This is one of the best waterfalls in the Central Virginia area.
  • Wildlife – .5. You probably won’t see anything here other than people.
  • Ease to Navigate – 4.5. Just stay on the trail.
  • Solitude –1. This is an extremely popular hike, so you will surely see people along the way.

Directions to trailhead: If you are approaching from I-81, take exit 205 towards Steeles Tavern.  Take a left on to Rte. 11 and then a quick right on to VA-56 heading east.  Follow this past the Blue Ridge Parkway (near BRP Mile Marker 30).  After a few more miles, you will see the signs for the parking area of Crabtree Falls on your right.  The parking lot loops around and you will see the trailhead and map near the restroom facilities.

Mill Prong – Rapidan Camp Trail

The hike to the Rapidan Camp (also known as Camp Hoover) is probably one of our very favorite walks in all of Shenandoah National Park.  We had such a great time there today.  It was one of those really perfect mornings along the trail.

The Brown House (as opposed to the White House) is where President Hoover stayed.
The Brown House (as opposed to the White House) is where President Hoover stayed when he wanted to escape the heat, stress and formality of Washington, D.C.  Below are photos of (left to right): The main entry to Brown House has steps that lead down to the Rapidan River; the house has a large patio overlooking the river – it was a popular place to relax in Hoover’s day; the Mill Prong was running beautifully today.

Brown House historical Mill Prong

Adam Says…

This is probably my favorite hike in Shenandoah National Park.  The reason I would say this is due to the combination of the history and scenery.

The hike isn’t too difficult, but there are three sets of rock-hopping that you’ll need to do over the Mill Prong.  Due to the recent storms, we actually had to wade across the the third stream crossing since the rocks were mostly submerged and we didn’t want to risk dropping Christine’s camera gear into the water.

The Rapidan Camp was built for Herbert Hoover during his term of office to serve as the first Presidential retreat.  Hoover was an avid outdoorsman and fisherman.  Shenandoah National Park was being built around the same time.  In order to hopefully get the park approved, they encouraged Hoover to build his retreat here.  Marines were brought in to build the camp, which included the construction of thirteen buildings and electrical/phone lines.  Interestingly enough, they heavily stocked the Rapidan River with lots of trout before Hoover arrived, so he would have lots of successful fishing trips.  When Hoover left office he donated his camp (which he paid for out of personal funds) to the government.  Hoover’s initial plan was to have the Camp serve as the permanent presidential retreat.  Due to Franklin D. Roosevelt’s wheelchair-confinement and his strong dislike of Hoover, he decided to establish a new retreat in the Catoctin Mountains of Maryland which he called Shangri-La (it was renamed by Eisenhower as Camp David).  It is interesting to think about what it would be like if the presidential retreat stayed at Camp Rapidan and how that could have impacted the park.

There does seem to be some good trout-fishing in the areas nearby, but it is all catch-and-release.  Of course, it’s not stocked like it was for Hoover.

If you aren’t able to see inside the Brown Cabin (see Christine’s info below), you can still walk around the grounds and read about the history of the area.  I would highly recommend bringing a lunch or snack. The back porch is a great place to eat and reflect on the history of this time.

Big Rock Falls is located along the trail right before you cross the river.
Big Rock Falls is located along the trail right before you cross the river. Below are photos of (left to right): the trail is lined with lush ferns; Adam wades across the stream; a pretty spot along the Mill Prong.

Ferns Deep Water mill prong_2

Christine Says…

We’ve hiked to the Rapidan Camp many times, but today was my favorite trip down the trail ever.  It was just one of those magical mornings where everything felt especially beautiful and perfect.

We got an early start, so the only people we came across on the way down were Boy Scouts hiking back out after a weekend of camping.  As we passed them, I had to wonder how they fared last night.  We had some fierce thunderstorms that rolled through around 3:00 a.m.  I was thrilled to see how flush with water the Mill Prong and the Rapidan River were.  Even the small waterfall, Big Rock Falls, looked impressive this morning.  When a crucial rock hop proved unavailable due to the high water, I enjoyed wading barefoot across the stream.  I thought the water would be cold, but it was actually pleasant and refreshing.

Probably the best part of the hike was our tour of the Rapidan Camp.  The volunteer ranger was just opening up when we arrived and gave us a private look at the President Hoover’s cabin, also known as “The Brown House”.  Although the cabin looks rustic on the outside, the inside is quite refined and cozy.  The floor is beautifully smooth wood, there are two bathrooms, two bedrooms, two huge stone fireplaces, hand woven rugs and a lovely study/office that overlooks the headwaters of the Rapidan River.  Until 1996, the Brown House was available to high-ranking politicians and V.I.P.s.  Al Gore was actually the last person to “rent” the Rapidan Camp for personal use. (Sandra Day O’Connor and Jimmy Carter have also been guests of the Rapidan Camp.)

The cabin is open for tours most days, May through October.  Volunteers have Tuesday and Wednesday off, so if you want to see inside, hike it on another day.  Each volunteer ranger actually gets to live at the camp for their three-week tour of duty.  The volunteer stays in the nearby Creel Cabin, which is one of the only three original buildings left standing.  The volunteers maintain the property and give tours to visitors.  The camp is also accessible on a ranger-guided program.  So, even folks who can’t (or don’t want to) walk can still see the site.

There is a fantastic exhibit set up in the “Prime Minister’s Cabin”.  It has many old photos and detailed information about the engineering feats required to build the camp.  Be sure to look at the large version of the letter pictured below.  It shows a lot of the planning that went into picking the site.

President and Mrs. Hoover
President and Mrs. Hoover enjoy the deck of the Brown House. Below are photos of (left to right): a letter from William Carson explaining preparatory steps to get the camp ready for Hoover; horses crossing the river; another historical photo of the Hoovers.

letter horse crossing historical_2

Trail Notes

  • Distance – 4 miles
  • Elevation Change – 750 feet
  • Difficulty – 2. The elevation change is gradual which makes it a fairly easy hike.
  • Trail Conditions – 4. The trail is in great condition, with few rocks or roots sticking up.  The rock-hopping could be a little challenge to anyone not stable on their feet.
  • Views – 1. Only views of the streams and the camp area.
  • Waterfalls/streams – 4. If it’s good enough for a former President, it should be good enough for you. 🙂
  • Wildlife – 1. Probably not as likely to see bigger animals due to popularity of the trail.  
  • Ease to Navigate – 4. Only a few turns to get to the camp.
  • Solitude – 2. You will likely see others here, but you should be able to find your own spot to enjoy the scenery and history.

Directions to trailhead: The hike starts at mile marker 53 on Skyline Drive.  Park in the Milam Gap lot, then cross the drive.  The trail picks up on the other side of the crosswalk.  You’ll quickly come up to a park post and take a left to start the trail.

Rose River Loop

The Rose River Loop is one of Shenandoah National Park’s most beautiful hikes for streams and waterfalls.  Over the course of 3.7 miles, you’ll hike along the Rose River, the Hog Camp Branch, and finally up the Rose River fire road.

A new log is resting on the crest of the falls
Two large fallen trees obscure Rose River falls.

Adam Says…

This hike is one of our most-repeated hikes in Shenandoah National Park.  It has some great views of running water throughout the trail. This isn’t the most secluded trail since it connects to Dark Hollow Falls.  However, you should normally only come across a few other people on this trail.  There are some good places to do some trout-fishing along the river.  The man pictured a few photos down had caught a 8.5 inch trout the day before at the same spot.

The hike starts off at the parking area just north of the Fishers Gap Overlook.  Cross the road and follow the Skyland-Big Meadows Horse Trail for .5 mile.  There is a steady downhill grade, but it’s not too steep. At .5 miles, you’ll reach the junction of the Horse Trail and the Rose River Trail.  Go right and follow the Rose River Trail, continuing downhill.  Once you reach the bottom of the trail in about a mile, you’ll hear the water. The trail continues alongside the stream for a ways.  You will reach Rose River falls at 1.3 miles.  They are impressive, but more beauty awaits along the trail.  For fans of long-exposure photography, this is a paradise.

The trail will pass an old copper mine at 1.8 miles.  Some people like to explore the old mine, but we don’t think there is anything worth seeing there.

For the next mile, the trail closely follows the stream.  It is very rocky and can be icy or muddy depending on the weather.  There are tons of small waterfalls, slides, and plunge pools to explore.

At 2.7 miles, you will reach the footbridge at the bottom of Dark Hollow Falls.  Turn right, cross the  bridge, and follow the Rose River Fire Road uphill.  At 3.3 miles, you will pass the Cave Cemetery on the right.  At 3.7 miles, you will arrive back at Skyline Drive and your vehicle.

You can see from some of Christine’s pictures that there is really a lot of nice water to see on this trail.  I highly recommend doing this if you have a day or two in the park.

Some graves date back to the Civil War.
Some graves (not this one) in the Cave Family Cemetery date back to the Civil War.

As I usually like to comment, there is a geocache located here.  For those that are unaware, physical geocaches are not allowed in National Parks.  However, there is a small cemetery located off of the fire road that is considered private land and not owned by the Park Service.  The cemetery was used by the people who used to live in the mountain hollows before the government took their land for the park in the early 1900’s.  The Cave family gave permission for a geocache to be placed here called Viking Treasure Cave. ETA:  This cache has since been removed from the park (September 2010)

Christine Says…

When we started down the Rose River trail, I couldn’t help but skeptically watch the blue sky peeking between openings in the trees above.  The local weatherman had forecast a cloudy morning, but as we hiked along the sun began sending down rays and making a dappled pattern across the forest floor.  It was lovely to look at, but was definitely not the kind of light I was hoping to have for the stream and waterfall photos I wanted take.  You see, the Rose River Loop is one of the very best hikes in Shenandoah for folks who enjoy photographing running water.  It’s also the place where my brother proposed to his now wife.  They were engaged on a bitter cold New Year’s Eve camping trip somewhere along the Rose River.

The Rose River
The Rose River has many beautiful small, unnamed falls.  I’ve named this one “Slip and Slide Falls” because the bushwhack down to the base is so steep.

Even though the light made photography a challenge today, I found several spots to shoot along the Rose River.  We had to bushwhack off the trail a couple times, and all I could think about were ticks.  I don’t think I’ve recovered from our walk down the Dry Run Falls fire road yet.

One bushwhack in particular was especially steep, slick and muddy.  As luck would have it, it also offered the prettiest of all the little cascades along the walk.   When I looked down the ravine, for some reason my inner girly-girl came out.  I announced to Adam that I wasn’t going down there no matter what.  He said “Yes, you are!” and took my camera away and starting climbing down without me.  I was left with no choice but to follow.  I got really muddy and touched a gross centipede-like creature.  I’ll never like bugs!

We stopped at Rose River Falls for a few shots.  For the past few years, there has been a huge fallen tree lying across the waterfall.  It’s still there, but now there is a new downed tree stuck at the crest of the waterfall.   Both trees are way too big to move, and will likely be there for years to come.

We paused at a couple other places along the Hog Camp Branch for photos, but there was another photographer who was consistently about ten minutes ahead of us on the hike.  Each time we got to a spot I planned on photographing, he was already there.  He looked pretty serious getting his shots.  At one spot, he even donned chest high waders and water shoes so that he could get to the middle of the stream for an ideal composition.   I skipped a lot of my favorite photo spots along the Hog Camp because I always feel a bit rude stepping into somebody’s shooting space.

I had my tripod all set up when the fisherman jumped into my scene
Speaking of stepping into someone’s shooting space… I had my tripod all set up when this fisherman dropped into my scene.  Oh well 🙂

We finished the loop hike on the Rose River fire road.  The last mile on the road is always my least favorite part of the hike.  The fire road is easy walking, but yawn… it’s a bit on the boring side. Despite the dull last leg, the Rose River loop is a must-do hike for anyone visiting Shenandoah.

I'm so lucky that Adam routinely offers to carry all my photography gear.
I’m so lucky that Adam routinely offers to carry all my photography gear.

Trail Notes

  • Distance – 3.7 miles loop trail
    (Check out the stats from Map My Hike)*
  • Elevation Change – Around 900 feet
  • Difficulty – 2. Some downhill and uphill, but it’s not too bad.
  • Trail Conditions – 3.5. There are some areas along the river that are more like a 2, but there are some areas that where it is more like a 5.  Footing is tricky around the climb up after the red bridge.
  • Views – 0. Just waterfall and stream views.
  • Waterfalls/streams – 4.5. Some of the most continuous views of water that allow for some great water photography.
  • Wildlife – 1. Some birds and chipmunks, but not much else here.
  • Ease to Navigate – 5. Trail is well-marked and there aren’t any spurs until you get back to the fire road.
  • Solitude – 3. Not the best on solitude, but you won’t run into a ton of people.

Download a trail map

Directions to trailhead: The trail is located on Skyline Drive.  Park at the Fisher’s Gap Overlook (at mile marker 49.4 miles), cross the road and pick up the trail.  The Rose River Loop starts to the left of the fire road.  You will see a cement marker.

Dry Run Falls

Adam found this hike mentioned in a book called Waterfalls of Virginia and West Virginia.  Since we’ve had so much rain lately, we decided to take the short three mile hike to see the falls.

Dry Run is pretty after substantial rain
Dry Run is pretty after substantial rain

Christine Says…

We parked our car at the South River Overlook and made our way down the Dry Run Falls Fire Road.   The road was wet and sloppy, but still beautiful because it was lined with countless wildflowers: trillium, wild geranium, violets, hepatica, ragwort and many more I couldn’t identify.

Trillium
Trillium

The road follows a gentle downhill grade and eventually passes Lost Cliffs, an impressive rock face rising straight up from the forest floor.  A little over a mile into the hike, you start to hear the sounds of water gurgling downhill, getting louder and stronger as more run-off joins the flow.

Dry Run falls are visible from the trail, and would actually be quite pretty if there weren’t several large fallen trees obscuring the view.   To get close to the stream, you have to do a little bit of bushwhacking down the ravine.  There are a few places along the stream that are photogenic and worth the effort to climb down.

On the hike, we all found multiple ticks crawling on us.  After all was said and done, I think we ended up picking sixteen ticks off our clothing and skin.   I skipped using bug spray on this hike because our dog was hiking with us, and DEET is so toxic to them.  This was by far the most ticks I’ve ever found on myself after a hike.

We brought the dog along.
We brought the dog along.

All in all, Dry Run was a pleasant walk, but not something I would consider a “must-do” hike.  There isn’t really anything noteworthy to see along the way and the falls weren’t anything special.

Adam Says…

I was a little unimpressed by this hike.  It was something new for us, since we have done most of the Central and South SNP hikes, but it was good to get out to stretch the legs.  The fire road leads to an easy walk through the woods.  We saw a few bear  droppings through the hike, so be careful and make some noise along the trail.  Dry Run can be viewed from the trail, but you need to do some bushwhacking to get to the water for any photo opportunities.  The water was rushing hard today, but we’ve had a couple of weeks of heavy rain.  I’m not sure how heavy this is during a dry season.  The water does have several areas of falls and tumbling water if you continue on the trail.  You can also approach this hike without entering through the main gate by way of Elkton, but we wanted to do the normal hike.

Lost Cliffs
Lost Cliffs – Can you spot Adam in the shot?

A neat side-trip was to climb up Lost Cliffs.  At the end of  the large formation on your right, you will see signs of a short trail that leads you up to the rocks above.  Be careful, since most of the rocks are covered with moss and that first step is a lulu.

wookieWookie Says…

Wookie really enjoyed walking on the fire road.  It was definitely an easy and suitable trail for dogs.  There was lots of mud and standing water on the trail, so he was filthy and needed a bath when he got home.  He also came home with lots ticks crawling on him — one had already attached to his ear.

Trail Notes

  • Distance – 3.2 miles round-trip
  • Elevation Change – insignificant  – maybe a couple hundred feet.
  • Difficulty – 1.  The trail follows a fire road and has very gentle climbs and descents.
  • Trail Conditions – 5.   The trail is well maintained.
  • Views – 0.  No views.
  • Waterfalls/streams – 2.  The falls and stream are pretty, but nothing special.
  • Wildlife – 2.  We heard a turkey and saw several kinds of salamanders.  There were also signs of bear and deer around.
  • Ease to Navigate – 5.   It would be nearly impossible to get lost.
  • Solitude – 4.  Fire roads are used infrequently in the park.  We saw only one other person – a local guy collecting mushrooms.

Directions to trailhead:

Follow Skyline Drive to mile 62.7.  Park at the South River Overlook.  Cross the drive and pick up the trail on the west side of the road.

Dark Hollow Falls

We thought we would start off the Virginia Trail Guide site with one of the most popular hikes in Virginia – Dark Hollow Falls.

Upper Dark Hollow Falls
Upper Dark Hollow Falls

Adam Says…

This trail is probably the most popular of all the hikes in Shenandoah National Park.  Due to the short length and the waterfall views, it is a quick hike that gives you a lot of bang-for-your-buck.

I used to hike this trail a lot while a student at JMU.  We would choose the coldest day of the year and sit under the falls for as long as we could stand it.  It was our version of the Polar Bear Club, but we always brought a change of clothes to save us from hypothermia.

Dark Hollow Falls are created by the Hogcamp Branch, which will come into quick view on your right as the trail descends. At the top of the falls, you will see a sign that depicts “Falls Can Kill”.  Make sure you stay on the trail!  A college friend of mine tried to cross the falls near the top and fell to a lower shelf.  He broke his coccyx and had to sit on a donut for about a month.  His butt looked like a cross between a baboon and a Smurf.  After the sign, you will approach an impressive rock formation on the left.  The trail descends sharply at this point until you reach the base of the upper falls.  When there has been a decent amount of rain, water falls impressively over three rock shelves.  However, in dry times, the entire waterfall is usually reduced to a mere trickle.  The lower falls are significantly less impressive and are a short walk down the trail.  The lower falls also mark the spot where the Dark Hollow Trail converges with the Fisher’s Gap Fire Road and the Rose River Trail.

Since there is a 440 foot elevation change in this short hike, the hike back up is more strenuous.  There are plenty of places to rest along the way back up.

Christine Says…

Without a doubt, Dark Hollow Falls is Shenandoah’s iconic hike.  Whenever I talk to anyone about the park, they almost always ask, “Have you hiked Dark Hollow?”  It’s short, it’s close to Big Meadows and it gives you easy access to one of the park’s more impressive waterfalls.  Photographically speaking,  Dark Hollow isn’t the most photogenic of waterfalls.  It’s usually crowded and the falls are surrounded by lots of scraggly brush and bare rock.  The upper falls are definitely more impressive in size and scale, but the lower falls are probably a little more picturesque.  During autumn, the lower falls are a nice spot to photograph colorful leaves on rocks surrounded by rushing water.  The other benefit Dark Hollow offers for photographers is hinted at by its name.  The water stays in the shadows most of the day, so it’s usually pretty easy to get even light and longer exposures.

Autumn at Dark Hollow
Autumn at Dark Hollow

When we hiked the trail this Saturday, it was cloudy and very still.  We’d had days of rain, so the water was really running down the gorge.   We got to the trailhead around 7:30 a.m.  The only other people on the trail were a pair of photographers.  We saw a lot more people coming down the trail when we were hiking back up. When we got back to the top, it was perfect timing for a fantastic breakfast at Skyland, one of the park’s two lodges.

Until yesterday, it had actually been years since we’d hiked the Dark Hollow Trail.  I walk down to the falls frequently, but I prefer to use the fire road – fewer people and less wear and tear on the trail.

Trail Notes

  • Distance – 1.4 miles round-trip
  • Elevation Change – 440 feet
  • Difficulty – 2.75.   Like most waterfall trails, you typically hike down to see them and hike up to return.  While it is only .7 mile to see the falls, coming back will definitely make you break a sweat.  The way down is more like a 2 and the way back is more like a 3.
  • Trail Conditions – 4. Since this is a well-traveled trail, the trail is maintained often.  Mostly small gravel on the trail, but due to the steepness of the trail and erosion fro heavy foot traffic, there are often muddy areas.
  • Views – 1.  Views are only of the waterfalls and streams below.  Wooded trail doesn’t lead to overlooks.
  • Waterfalls/streams – 4.  Great waterfall view at the end of the trail and  the Hogcamp Branch is in view along the much of the trail.
  • Wildlife – 2.  You would be likely to see deer that have visited here from Big Meadows area.  Chipmunks are everywhere.  Bears tend to stay away due to the human traffic.  Many bird species in the trees.
  • Ease to Navigate – 5.  Trail is easily marked and it would be nearly impossible to get lost.
  • Solitude – 1.  Due to the trail’s popularity, you will not get a lot of solitude there.  Early morning visits will get the highest possibility of solitude.

Directions to trailhead: On Skyline Drive.  Parking lot is located around mile marker 50.7 in the Central District of Shenandoah National Park.  Trail begins near signs on the north end of the parking lot.

Alternate Hike: You can also approach Dark Hollow Falls by hiking down the Fisher’s Gap Fire Road which originates across from the overlook of the same name.   Across Skyline Drive, you will see the fire road with the road gate.  After about .75 miles, you will come to an iron bridge at the bottom of lower Dark Hollow Falls.  You can then walk up the trail to get a view of the upper falls.  This alternate is a great idea for anyone who wants a less strenous option.  The fire road is smooth enough that I’ve actually seen parents pushing strollers down the trail.