Hedgehog Mountain is tiny compared to most of its neighbors, but this 5-mile hike still packs in tons of scenery and great views. The ledges are also a super place to stuff your face with wild blueberries!
After arriving in New Hampshire and hiking Mt. Major, we took a couple days off hiking to relax and spend time with family. The combination of daily hikes in New York paired with not sleeping or eating enough really wore me out. So we took it easy and did other fun things like exploring Franconia Notch State Park, paddling kayaks across quiet ponds, sampling craft beer at Schilling (Littleton, NH) and Long Trail (Bridgewater Corners, VT), and stuffing our faces with Cabot cheese and pastries from King Arthur Baking Company. By Wednesday, we were ready to hike again. Our second hike in New Hampshire was a repeat trip to visit beautiful Lonesome Lake. Our third hike was something entirely new – Hedgehog Mountain. It’s the most diminutive of New Hampshire’s ’52 With a View’ – a collection of the state’s nicest view hikes on mountains under 4,000 feet.
We started out the morning with a big breakfast at Polly’s Pancake Parlor. Then I went for a short paddle with my dad across and around Echo Lake. By 10:00 a.m., Adam and I were on our way across the mountains on the scenic Kancamagas Highway. We parked at the Downes Brook parking area and paid our $3 parking fee. The summit of Hedgehog is accessed by the UNH Loop Trail. The trail gets its name from an old University of New Hampshire forestry camp that operated at the mountain’s base from the mid-1940s until 1964.
There were just a few cars in the lot, so we knew we would have a relatively quiet hike. We decided to hike the loop clockwise, allowing a more gradual ascent followed by views of the Presidentials on the way down. The hike starts off along a lovely pine-shaded trail following the route of the old Swift River Railroad. The hike climbs gradually, passes a clearing, and soon reaches a sign indicating the beginning of the loop portion. We chose to turn left and cross the east ledges before reaching the summit.
For 1.2 miles we walked through a peaceful pine forest. The climb was steady, but quite gentle. There were roots and rocks, but they were always padded by fallen pine needles. As we hiked on, the route became steeper and rockier and eventually opened onto bare cliffsides and ledges with magnificent views of so many big mountains – the Tripyramids, Carrigain, Chocorua, and Passaconaway. Most of the ledges were wide and generous, but one section in particular was narrow and precipitous. There were blueberries growing everywhere! From the ledge, we could also see the last steep section of trail we had to climb to reach the summit. The ledges were definitely my favorite part of the hike!
The last bit of climbing to the Hedgehog summit was steep – definitely more challenging than I expected on this loop! At first we passed through a tangle of roots and boulders. The higher we climbed, the roots gave way to smooth granite slabs and boulders that required scrambling. I told Adam at one point that I was very tired of putting my knees down on granite! Granite gives me so many bruises. The actual summit had nice views, but (in my opinion) the view from the lower ledges had been nicer.
Leaving the summit, we spied glimpses of the Presidentials off in the distance. Evidently, on clear days one can even see the weather observatory atop Mount Washington. We weren’t that lucky. The descent was much rougher and steeper than the climb up. I was really glad we had gone clockwise! On the way down, we took the short spur trail to Allen’s Ledge. The rocky outcropping offers a chance to take in a final sweeping view of many of the area’s bigger mountains. From Allen’s Ledge, the rest of the hike was a moderate descent back to the old railroad grade.
Over the course of the day, we only saw three small hiking groups. That’s great solitude for a nice summer day in the White Mountains! We would definitely recommend this hike if you’re looking for great views and don’t feel like tackling a 4,000-footer.
After the hike, we decided to drive into North Conway and look around the shops and have an early dinner at one of our favorite stops – Moat Mountain. They brew a nice selection of beers and have fantastic food. It was so tasty; I think I finished an entire half pound burger and all my fries!
As Christine mentioned, we started our day off a little later than normal. It was a gloomy morning, with fog settled in. Since Polly’s Pancake Parlor and Echo Lake were quite a distance from our home base, we decided to take a separate car from her parents and take off on our hike after we had done our morning activities with them. When Christine and her dad went paddling earlier on Echo Lake, it was cold and there was a little bit of drizzle. I can’t swim so I don’t like being on a canoe or kayak. I was quite content to watch Christine and her dad go out paddling on the peaceful, yet foggy waters.
We were worried it wouldn’t warm up or be able to see the sun on our hike. Two things that hiking in New England has taught me is to be patient and be an opportunist. There have been a lot of hikes that we have done in the White Mountains that if you wait a few minutes, clouds may break. So, we took our time that morning knowing that our best chance of seeing views would be a little later in the day.
The trail started off very flat through a tunnel of pine trees. After a short distance, it takes a sharp right and begins to ascend. Within a few tenths of a mile, the trail crosses over with a clearing, but stay straight on the trail. The trail continues on an ascent, but the terrain wasn’t too difficult. With the morning activity of paddling, Christine bonked a bit so we paused to eat an energy bar before continuing onward. The trail became a little steeper and more narrow as we navigated through some interesting terrain with pine trees and granite steps. There were a few obstructed views along the way. The woods were so quiet it was eerie – we felt a bear would jump out at any minute in this deep wilderness. Eventually the trail became quite steep and rocky, leading to larger granite steps. The trail soon popped up to some gorgeous cliffside panoramic views. Not reading about this on trail reviews we found online we were quite surprised. We navigated the cliffsides, going back into woods for a short time before coming out onto a large shelf of granite. We spotted the summit above us, but below us were tons of blueberries. We picked a few and enjoyed the gorgeous mountain and valley views around us.
The trail ducks back into the woods and descends a short bit through some thick forest. There were blowdowns across the trail and the cobwebs were thick in places, making me think that many people don’t come on this section of trail to make it a loop. The trail then began to ascend again through some very steep and rocky sections, requiring us to pull ourselves up with our hands in a few areas. We finally reached the summit. We ate a snack, talking with a woman who had done much hiking in the Whites while enjoying some obstructed views from the summit. We both agreed that the views from below were more exceptional than the summit views.
As we were making a loop hike, we continued on and found another obstructed viewpoint to give you views of many of the Whites. As Christine mentioned, we couldn’t see the summit of Mount Washington but we could spot a few of the Presidential range in the distance. The return trip was quite steep and we were treated to a few views on the climb down, which you would likely miss if you did the loop in the opposite direction. On our descent, we found a small side trail that led to Allen’s Ledge. Allen’s Ledge also had some nicer views than the summit. We relaxed at this spot for a few minutes before rejoining the UNH trail and making our way back down the mountain. Before too long we had rejoined the loop where it split and returned to the parking area.
While it isn’t as popular as some other hikes in the area, if you want some seclusion with great views, check out Hedgehog Mountain. We were pleasantly surprised at how gorgeous the views were and the interesting terrain along the trail makes this a rewarding hike.
- Distance – 5 miles
- Elevation Change – 1312 feet
- Difficulty – 3.5. There are a few steep, rocky sections, but most of the trail is gentle.
- Trail Conditions – 3.5. The trail is adequately maintained, but expect lots of rocks and roots.
- Views – 4. In Virginia, these views would warrant a 5, but there are even grander views in this area.
- Waterfalls/streams – 0. None.
- Wildlife – 2. Other than birds and squirrels, we didn’t see wildlife.
- Ease to Navigate – 3. There were a couple tricky spots, like the clearing early on the trail, but generally this was an easy route to follow.
- Solitude – 4. By White Mountains standards on a nice summer day, we enjoyed quite a bit of solitude on this hike
Directions to trailhead: From Interstate 93, take exit 32 (NH-112E). Follow NH-112E for 22 miles. Parking is on the right in the Downes Brook – Mount Potash lot. Parking Coordinates: 43.9960876,-71.3688126
Mount Major is a short, extremely popular hike in the Lakes Region of New Hampshire. The summit offers excellent views of Lake Winnipesaukee.
Hiking Mount Major seems to be a rite of passage for anyone that is visiting the lakes region of New Hampshire. This has been a popular spot for hiking for a long time. We had just hiked Mount Marcy two days before and our muscles were still recovering, but it was my 44th birthday and I wanted to celebrate with the views from a summit.
We got to the parking lot fairly close to 10:00 a.m. and the lot was completely full. We began to see how popular this trail actually was. We parked along the side of the road and then proceeded through the parking lot to the trailhead. We noticed one car that was parked in a way that took up three spots. Someone had left a note on their windshield letting them know just how they felt about their parking job. New Englanders don’t mess around.
From the parking lot, we followed the main blue trail. The trail was a wide, worn path through the woods. When you are walking on a clear, dirt path you know this is a well-used trail. The hike was uphill for the first few tenths of a mile, but levels out at .3 miles. We enjoyed some flat walking through the trees. At .7 miles, the trail reaches a junction. Take a left to stay on the main, blue-blazed trail. The trail begins to steepen at this point and becomes more rocky. As we climbed up on our approach to the summit, you approach some more exposed large sections of rock that you can walk up or you can take a rugged trail up the side. We opted to walk on the open rock surface on the way up, but chose the path on the way down. As you walk on this open rock surfaces, you can look behind you to see the beginnings of some great views of Lake Winnipesaukee. The trail was quite steep at this point and you have to be careful as you navigate up these large, rocky areas.
Around the 1.6 mile mark, we reached the large open summit. There were tons of people at the top, but because of the large area, you can always find a place to enjoy to yourself. The wind was whipping across the summit. We went to the summit marker that has a large rock foundation built around it. We sheltered ourselves from the wind and ate a snack at the summit. After eating, we walked around in all directions to enjoy the views around us. While staring out at the gorgeous views, you can easily lose track of time.
We descended the way we came, but there are many options to make this a larger loop hike if you so desire. Sometimes I feel that popular hikes are often over-hyped, but this hike didn’t disappoint. We saw plenty of families hiking together on this hike of all skill levels. Just take your time and most people should be able to make the hike that are in decent shape. This was a great start to a birthday celebration and the views of Lake Winnipesaukee are some of the best you will get.
Hey – it’s great to be back in New Hampshire! We had a spectacular, sparkling, bluebird day to hike Mt. Major. It was a perfect hike for Adam’s birthday.
Mt. Major is probably the most popular dayhike in the Belknap Range – and no wonder, with its relatively short distance and commanding views of Lake Winnipesaukee. We hiked on a Sunday morning. Arriving by 10:00 a.m., we found the parking lot already jam-packed with cars. Adam and I had to park our car on the shoulder of the busy main road.
The Mount Major trail is blue blazed and begins climbing uphill on an extremely eroded fire road. The erosion is so deep it makes the trail look like a chute. The trail eventually levels out and follows a pleasant, nearly flat path. At around the .7 mile mark, the trail splits into two – the Mt. Major Trail is sharply to the left and the Brook Trail continues straight. We continued on the Mt. Major Trail – this is when the real climbing began. The entire 1.6 mile hike only has 1,150 feet of climbing – most of it packed into second half.
After about a quarter mile of climbing along rocky trail, we passed a family taking a breather on a large boulder jumble. The adult couple was bickering bitterly about turning around or continuing to the summit. We could tell by their clothes and shoes that they were not regular hikers. When the man made the decision to quit, we overheard his young son exclaim loudly ‘Daddy… you’re a FAILURE!’ Poor guy!
The last bit of climbing was tough, so it probably was for the best that the family turned around. I think a lot of novice hikers see a short, popular hike and don’t realize how challenging it can be to ascend 1,000 feet in three-quarters of a mile. There were lots of steep rock ledges and smooth domes of rock, punctuated by short passes through trees. There were two trail choices for the last quarter mile – ledges or ledge detour. To be honest, the trails were both pretty haphazard with people blazing all kinds of different paths to the summit. As we made our way up, we paused to look back and enjoy the ever improving view.
At 1.6 miles, we reached the rocky summit of Mt. Major. SUPERB! Lake Winnipesaukee, framed by distant mountains, sparkled all across the horizon. As expected, the summit was very crowded. At the top of the mountain, there are remnants of an old stone cottage. Later, I did some research into the history of the structure. The summit of Mt. Major was once owned by a private citizen. New Hampshire resident, George Phippens, bought the mountain summit for $125 in 1914. He loved the views and the blueberries, and kept the mountain open to all. He built a cottage at the top for hikers to use as shelter, but the roof kept blowing off in the winter. Eventually, the Great Depression came along, and ownership of the summit reverted to the Town of Alton to cover Phippens’ taxes. Read more about Mr. Phippens and his love of Mt. Major.
Adam and I spent some more time enjoying the views before making our way back down the mountain. Many people descend via the Brook Trail, but we just went down the way we had come. By the time we got back to the car, we were starving! We decided we would eat at the first restaurant we passed – which ended up being the Wise Owl Restaurant and Country Store in Alton, NH. It was late for lunch, so we were the only diners there. The food was good, but it took nearly an hour to get a simple lunch. I almost passed out from hunger while we waited! Reminder to self: eat more snacks!
- Distance – 3.2 miles
- Elevation Change – 1150 feet
- Difficulty – 2. There are some steep and rocky sections of the trail. Most people can make it if they take their time. Keep an eye on children along the trail.
- Trail Conditions – 4. Most of the trail is open and easy to navigate. Some of the rock surfaces are slick, so be careful especially on rainy days.
- Views – 4.5. Panoramic views from both sides of the summit.
- Waterfalls/streams – 0. Non-existent.
- Wildlife – 1. This is a popular trial so wildlife know to stay away.
- Ease to Navigate – 4. There are a lot of paths to make it a loop. Consult the map and pay attention to blazes along the way.
- Solitude – 0. This is one of the most popular hikes in New Hampshire, so you will likely see lots of people. Go during the weekday or early mornings to avoid crowds.
Directions to trailhead: From Laconia, NH, take NH-11A for 11.1 miles. Turn right on to NH-11 and go 3.1 miles until you reach the parking lot on the right for Mount Major. The trailhead is at the end of the parking lot. Take the main, blue-blazed Mount Major trail using the trailhead at the back right of the parking lot. Parking coordinates: 43.519676, -71.272813
This 14.5 mile hike follows a moderate route to the summit of New York’s tallest mountain. At 5,343 feet, Mt. Marcy offers commanding views of the region from her above-treeline summit. This is definitely the crowning jewel of a hiking week in the Adirondacks!
For our grand finale in the High Peaks, we decided we had to hike New York’s tallest mountain – Mount Marcy! After a day of rain (that caused us to bail out a mile short of the summit of Mt. Van Hoevenberg), we woke to bluebird skies and crisp, cool temperatures. After a week of hazy, muggy conditions, we were going to get the prettiest day of our entire vacation week to hike the big mountain. Perfect!
The hike of Mt. Marcy is almost 15 miles round-trip with 3,200 feet of climbing. The trail is never horribly steep, but it’s still a long, challenging day for most hikers. We set out early with our backpacks stuffed with essentials – several liters of water, multiple snacks, and warm layers for the summit. We (once again) parked at the Heart Lake Program Center.
Despite our early start, there were crowds of hikers setting out for the day. We never really had the trail to ourselves or experienced much solitude – not that we were expecting it on such a popular trail. It was also one of those hikes that made me feel guilty each time I paused to take photos. At every photo stop, the slightly slower hikers behind us would catch up and pass us; only to have us on their heels saying ‘excuse me… may we pass?’ ten minutes later. Because the crowd situation was a little stressful, I didn’t take a ton of photos on the ascent.
The first couple miles of the hike were easy going – it was mostly flat trail through lush mixed forest. The first notable landmark we reached was Marcy Dam. Until Hurricane Irene struck in 2011, the dam held back the waters of a scenic pond. When the monster storm passed over, it washed away the sluice gate leaving behind a nothing but a mud flat with a stream passing through. When we hiked by, I was unaware of the history and still found the dam extraordinarily beautiful! Mount Colden, Avalanche Pass, and Wright Peak still stood tall over still water full of cloud reflections. The New York DEC is planning on removing the dam completely over the next few years, so who knows how the vista will change. Read more about the dam.
On the far side of the dam, we signed the trail register and began the climb toward the summit of Marcy. The terrain was extremely varied – there were stream crossings, boulders, cobblestones, root jumbles, muddy spots, plank bridges, logs pressed into mud, and basic dirt trail. The climbing was steady, but gentle almost the entire way to the summit. One odd thing about the hike was that it was not very well-marked. There were several major trail junctions that simply did not list the Marcy summit on the signs. We consulted our map and hiking guide and were able to find the right way, but we met confused hikers at each junction.
After passing through a stretch of trail with big logs pressed into the mud for footing, we reached a saddle on the mountain’s shoulder. Plank bridges passed across an open, grassy marsh, giving us our first clear view of the bald, granite summit of Mount Marcy.
From there, the climbing became a bit more intense and steep. We scrambled across granite faces and over boulders, following blazes and cairns along the way. I didn’t particularly enjoy climbing up this part of the mountain. I always feel like I’m slipping on smooth granite. Also, my legs were covered with bruises from all the other rocks I’d climbed earlier in the week. I’m like a ripe peach when it comes to bruising! At one point, I looked back at Adam and said ‘Seriously… more rocks. I already look like an accident victim’. Of course, Adam caught my expression on camera. I’m not including that photo in the post, but it’s in the Flickr album if you want a good laugh. I was not a happy hiker at that moment!
We slowly but surely made our way to the top – and it was so worth it! What a spectacular view! The Adirondacks almost rival the White Mountains of NH for their terrain and views. The wind was whipping across the summit, so I put on my jacket and found a place to eat lunch. I had tired of PB&J, so I had pepperoni, cheese, and crackers and half of the biggest cookie I’ve ever seen. The day before hiking Marcy, we had stopped for lunch at the Big Mountain Deli and Creperie. In addition to amazing sandwiches (all named after the High Peaks) and crepes, they also sell giant cookies perfect for giant hikes. I definitely recommend a stop there if you’re in Lake Placid!
After a while on top the world, it was time to climb down. We slithered and slid down the steepest parts, enjoying views all along the descent. When we got back to the marshy saddle that had given us our first view of Marcy, I noticed that one of my trekking poles felt shorter than the other. I figured that heavy use on the descent, had forced the pole to retract. However, when I went to adjust it, I found the entire bottom third of my pole was GONE. It was too late and we had covered too much ground to go back for it. I was able to extend the middle third and use the remnant of my pole the rest of the way down, but I was so bummed. Those were great Komperdell poles and they carried me over many miles.
The rest of the descent was pretty easy and passed by quickly. Sometime after Marcy Dam, my right foot decided it had enough for the day and started cramping. It really hurt, but I was able to hobble my way back to the trailhead parking. We were both pretty happy to see the car! What a great day and what a fitting end to our first week in the Adirondacks. We can’t wait to visit again!
When we first planned our trip to the Adirondacks, we both had put on our goals to hike Mount Marcy. Being the tallest peak in New York, it is a big draw to people living or visiting the North Country of New York. When we arrived in the parking lot early in the morning, we kept seeing groups upon groups of people hitting the start of the trail. I felt pressure to try and get started as we knew more and more people were going to get on the trail as each minute passed. This was a beautiful day, so we knew it would be a little more crowded than normal.
At the beginning of the trailhead there was a large stack of rocks with a sign asking to carry one to the top of Mount Marcy. We didn’t realize the full purpose until we got to the summit, but the goal was to bring some small rocks up for preservation projects. We both grabbed a rock, signed the registry at the kiosk, and started the hike. The trail starts off mostly flat, with very little elevation gained. The trail began as a beautiful path through thick woods. We crossed a footbridge through a marshy area. Further up the trail, we passed a sign that pointed towards Fangorn Forest. As big Lord of the Rings fans, we quickly got the reference – I said to Christine, “What madness drove them in there?”, a quote from the movie The Two Towers and we both chuckled. Staying on the main trail, we came to a large junction at the one mile marker. There are a lot of trails that criss-cross through the hike up Mount Marcy. We saw a lot of people consulting maps trying to decide what to do. We did the same and I bore us left at the junction following the direction to the Marcy Dam lean-tos. The trail begins to climb a bit here.
At 2.3 miles, we arrived at Marcy Dam, a very picturesque spot to enjoy some reflective water with mountains ahead. The trail winds down and then crosses the water on a longer footbridge, before leading to the other side with another perspective view. You will come across signs on this side of the water crossing that are pointing to several lean-tos, bathrooms, and campsites along the way. We found it strange to have toilets this far off the main trail. We didn’t realize until our return trip that a ton of people like to camp out here. Many of the groups that we saw heading on the trail go no further than to one of these campsites, so numbers on the trail can be misleading.
From the other side of the dam, we found another kiosk which we signed again and followed the signs that pointed us to Mt. Marcy. The trail starts off with a gradual climb here. At 3.0 miles, we reached a junction with a side trail that led to Phelps Mountain. Peakbaggers seeking all of the 46 mountains over 4000 feet would follow this side trail to summit Phelps Mountain, #32 on the list, in 1.2 miles (2.4 miles roundtrip from this point). We skipped Phelps and continued up the trail. The trail became steeper and rockier.
At 4.2 miles, we reached another junction, which seemed to be the most confusing. There were no signs stating which way went to Mt. Marcy. The sign was weathered and half of the letters were hard to read, which only added to our confusion. We saw several people at this junction trying to figure out the correct path. Staying straight on the trail would lead you to Table Top Mountain, but we had to take a right on this trail and up a few rock stairs to stay on the trail to summit Mt. Marcy. At about 4.4 miles, we came to another junction, We bore to the left, which was the correct path. The trail continued to be rocky and wet from recent rain.
At about 6.2 miles, we reached a large clearing, which gave us our first views of the summit. At about 6.6 miles, we arrived at another junction, bore right, and the views above began to open up as we headed above treeline. The last .6 miles were challenging, with some areas requiring you to scramble up using your hands as well as your feet. There were also some sheer, slick granite faces, so you had to pay attention and take care. We finally reached the top at 7.25 miles. The wind was whipping around us fiercely, but the views were absolutely breathtaking. I would say these views compare very similarly to some of the views we have seen in Mount Washington and Franconia Ridge in New Hampshire, two of our favorite all-time hikes.
At the summit, there was another sign asking for everyone that carried their rock to drop it here. While we stopped to eat a snack, we were greeted by a summit steward. The Adirondack Mountain Club has hired people to talk to others at Mt. Marcy and other summits to educate people about the ecosystems and fragile plants that live on the top of these mountains. They explained to us how the rocks we brought up would be placed to form barriers to protect plants from the wind and people. I was amazed the ADK has people that hike Mt. Marcy every day to keep counts of people and talk to people at the summit. We told the summit steward we have always wanted to be paid to hike and she was getting that dream job of ours. Read more about summit stewards.
We knew we had a long way back down, so we eventually pulled ourselves from the summit to make our way back down. The views were so stunning coming down also. On the way back down, I slid and pulled a muscle in my shoulder trying to stop my fall. The mountains are no joke up here.
We finally got back to our car after a long hike downward at 14.5 miles. After the hike, we were completely beat. We drove to Lake Placid and stumbled into Johnny’s, a pizza place. I hobbled in and we ate in a pure exhausted state.
The memories on Mt. Marcy will last with me for the rest of my life. It is an iconic mountain that definitely won’t disappoint if you can handle the climbing and distance.
- Distance – 14.5 miles
- Elevation Change – 3200 ft.
- Difficulty – 4.5. It’s hard to give this a 5, because while the hike is long, it’s never a difficult hike.
- Trail Conditions – 3. Parts of the trail are fantastic, other parts are a mess.
- Views – 5. Spectacular, panoramic, top-of-the-world.
- Streams/Waterfalls – 3. There are a few pretty streams along the hike.
- Wildlife – 3. Red squirrels and lots of birds.
- Ease to Navigate – 1.5. With several junctions not giving good directions on which way to Mt. Marcy, bring along our map below and consult at every junction.
- Solitude – 1. This is a popular trail and you’ll see lots of people.
Directions to trailhead: From Lake Placid, go east on Rt. 73 to Adirondac Loj Rd., which is the first right after the ski jumps. The parking lots are 5 miles from Rt. 73. There is a $10/day parking fee. Park in one of the large lots near the High Peaks Information Center. The trailhead is on the far side of the parking lot directly across from the High Peaks Information Center. GPS coordinates for this hike are: 44.1830461,-73.9644678
This practically flat 5-mile hike takes you to a small, but lovely, double waterfall. The pool beneath the falls is a great place to take a dip on a hot summer day. After visiting the falls, the hike continues around the perimeter of Heart Lake.
As we were trying to mix up some easy hikes with some tough hikes in the Adirondacks, we settled on picking this easy hike to a nice waterfall. This hike starts on the same path that led to Mt. Jo, beginning at the Heart Lake Program Center (the main hub for the Adirondack Mountain Club). The trailhead parking at Heart Lake was $10.00 a day for non-members (ADK member parking was $5 and all prices went down by half for parking arrivals after noon.) We recommend arriving early if you want to set out on any trail from this popular spot.
The trailhead starts to the right of the entrance station. The trail starts off on a flat, easy path through the woods. You pass the Heart Lake Nature Museum and then pass the junction to the Mt. Jo trail at .25 miles. The trail stays flat and skirts along the north side of Heart Lake. There are a couple of paths that lead down to the lakeside for peaceful views. At .6 miles, you reach the junction that leads around Heart Lake, but stay straight on the trail. Most of the hike is relatively uneventful, as you walk through some dense forest areas, with just a couple of stream crossings along the way. We found very few people on the trail and it was an enjoyable walk slightly downhill. At 2.0 miles, we reached a junction that showed the side trail to Rocky Falls. It was only .2 miles to reach the falls.
When I had seen pictures of the falls online, the falls reminded me of two eyes with cascading tears. We hung out a while at the bottom of the falls and were soon joined by a man with his two dogs. They enjoyed jumping in the swimming hole and fetching a stick. We could really tell they were having a great time and it was fun to watch their relentless pursuit. There is a small path that leads to the top of the falls, but the most picturesque view is of the bottom of the falls.
We made our way back the way we came, now taking a slight uphill route from the falls. At 4.0 miles, we came back to the junction with the trail that led around Heart Lake. We decided to take this route in hopes of seeing the lake from a different angle. This route actually led away from the lake so it didn’t provide any great views along the side as the northside did. We passed through a short, open field used for skiing, but then came back into the woods. We passed a few cabins and campsites along the lake. At 4.5 miles, the trail met the lake again. I found a nice bench and sat and enjoyed the serenity of the lake. We then moved further down to the Adirondack Loj, where we saw several families that were out in the lake swimming, kayaking, and paddleboarding. We read books by the lake for a while, enjoying the sunny day and then made our way back to the car.
One thing I feel is really special about this area is the ability for families to enjoy the outdoors in many different ways. This hike and the surrounding areas is a great destination for people that enjoy the water, the views, and the hiking. While I have seen more impressive waterfalls, this would be an easy family outing if you are staying nearby.
Adam and I planned to hike Mount Marcy as the grand finale of our Adirondack week, so for Wednesday’s hike, we decided to stick with another easy trail so we could save our energy for our big, 15-mile route a couple days later. Once again, we found ourselves setting off from the Adirondack Loj – it really is the heart of outdoor activity in that area.
The trail leading to Rocky Falls was surprisingly flat and soft. I had come to believe that everything in the Adirondacks was either slick granite, boulders, cobbles, or a tangle of gnarled roots; so terrain like this was a welcome surprise. The wide dirt path passed through beautiful shady woods. Many of the muddy places along the trail had small logs pressed into the tread to make the mucky parts more passable. It’s a clever, easy way to manage areas prone to wetness.
Another nice thing about the easy terrain was that it gave us a chance to cover ground at greater speed. I’m not saying I like to rush through hikes, but sometimes complicated terrain slows you to just a mile an hour. It felt good to stretch our legs and cover ground! We reached the falls pretty quickly. When we first arrived, there were a couple people climbing on the rocks above the waterfall, but we had the lower pool all to ourselves. I was able to take advantage of some passing clouds to get a couple long exposure photos of the waterfall. It was small, but very pretty. The pool beneath the falls was very inviting. I would have loved to go for a swim, but didn’t bring a towel or clothes to change into.
After a few minutes, more people began to arrive. The two dogs Adam mentioned were fun to watch, but they also meant I had to put my tripod away. I don’t know what it is, but I am a wet dog magnet as soon as I get my good camera gear out! Every time I tried to take a shot, they would come bursting out of the water and running in my direction at a full, water-spraying shake! Oh well… I had already managed to take a few decent photos and really enjoyed watching the dogs dive and swim. When we went into Lake Placid the later, we actually ran into the hiker who had brought the dogs. It turned out that he worked at Eastern Mountain Sports. Funny… usually the people you pass on a day hike, you never see again.
After leaving the falls, we took the lake loop trail back to the Loj. It was mostly walking through the woods. Eventually we reached a cross country ski hill named in honor of Alice Waterhouse. Alice was an Adirondack legend – she hiked all the high peaks, skied, worked on trail maintenance, and volunteered her time working to preserve the area’s wilderness. You can read more about her on the ADK Blog.
After passing the ski hill, we quickly reached the lakeside camping area. The lean-tos were really cute. They reminded me of the Appalachian Trail shelters we see through much of Virginia. It would be nice to camp there someday! Before we knew it, we were back at the Loj. We had packed a picnic of peanut butter sandwiches, chips, and cookies. I bought more cold drinks from the info center and staked out a nice spot with two Adirondack chairs overlooking Heart Lake. We spent the afternoon relaxing and reading books. We watched people paddling the lake and even spotted a loon diving. What a nice place to watch the world pass by.
- Distance – 5 miles
(Check out the stats from Map My Hike)*
- Elevation Change – 377 ft.
- Difficulty – 1.5. This trail is a rarity by Adirondack standards – the trail was flat and mostly dirt. We think most people could easily manage this hike.
- Trail Conditions – 4. The trail was in great shape with only a few muddy spots.
- Views – 2. Views of the mountains across Heart Lake are pretty, but there are no lofty vistas on this hike.
- Streams/Waterfalls – 3.5. The small double waterfall is the main point of this hike. It’s a pretty spot, but there are more impressive waterfalls in the area.
- Wildlife – 2. The area is heavily traveled and popular with families and dogs. I wouldn’t expect to see lots of wildlife. Although, we did see a loon on Heart Lake.
- Ease to Navigate – 4. Trails are generally easy to follow and well marked.
- Solitude – 2. This is a popular trail in a busy area.
Directions to trailhead: From Lake Placid, go east on Rt. 73 to Adirondac Loj Rd., which is the first right after the ski jumps. The parking lots are 5 miles from Rt. 73. There is a $10/day parking fee. From the parking lot at the High Peaks Information Center at the end of Adirondak Loj Rd. return to the entrance station and find the trail at the far corner of the snowplow turnaround. GPS coordinates for this hike are: 44.1830461,-73.9644678
This delightful 2.4 mile hike offers fantastic views of Heart Lake and the High Peaks! With under 600 ft of elevation gain and a largely uncomplicated trail, this hike is perfectly suited for novices and young families. It’s certainly one of the area’s ‘do not miss’ hikes!
After a strenuous day on Giant Mountain, we wanted to keep hiking – but we wanted something sort of laid back for our third day in the Adirondacks. We settled on Mount Jo – a relatively small peak (2,976′) rising above the shores of Heart Lake. We had read in multiple guides that Mount Jo offered the scenery of a 4,000 footer with only a fraction of the physical effort. That sounded perfect for our easy day!
Our hike began at the Heart Lake Program Center, which is the main hub for the Adirondack Mountain Club. The 700-acre property is home to the Adirondak Loj guest house, lots of rustic camping options, and the High Peaks Information Center. Many of the area’s most popular trailheads are located in the vicinity. At press time, trailhead parking at Heart Lake was $10.00 a day for non-members (ADK member parking was $5 and all prices went down by half for parking arrivals after noon.) When we visited, the 200-car lot was nearly full by 10 a.m. We recommend arriving early if you want to set out on any trail from this popular spot.
The trailhead for Mount Jo is located across from the entrance station at the end of the snowplow turnaround The hike started off along a wide path with flat, easy footing. We passed the Heart Lake Nature Museum and an open view of the beautiful lake. At trailpost #29 (all the junctions on the property are numbered!), turn right onto the Mount Jo trail. Shortly after the turn, there is an information board and a trail register. Most trailheads in the Adirondacks have a register for hikers to sign in, leave route details, and then sign out at the conclusion of their hike. It’s an imperfect system, but definitely helps keep hikers safe in a large and rugged area. About a quarter mile after the register, the trail branches in two directions – ‘short trail’ and ‘long trail’. Adam and I decided to take the long trail up and the short trail down, allowing us to see unique scenery along a loop.
The long trail was beautiful – shaded by pine trees with footing composed of gnarled roots and rocks. As we hiked, the trail became steeper and followed a stream bed. I imagine the stream bed is often dry in summer, but we hiked the morning after thunderstorms, so there was a trickle of water running. We met a chattering red squirrel along the route – they really are so much cuter than the gray squirrels we have in Virginia.
At the top of the climb, the long and short trails met up again and joined routes to the summit. For a short distance, the trail was practically flat, passing over muddy areas on wooden planks. There was a non-intimidating ladder traversing a slab of granite, followed by a short but steep climb over boulders to the summit. At the top of Mount Jo, we had superb views of Heart Lake, Cascade Mountain, Mount Marcy, Algonquin Peak, Mount Colden, Indian Pass, and the Great Range. With the popularity of Mount Jo and the Heart Lake area, we were surprised to have the summit all to ourselves! We really enjoyed the view!
After a while, we were joined on the summit by a group of hikers led by one of the ADK’s summer naturalists. The club really offers a great variety of programs. We listened to the ranger describe and name the peaks and describe the geology of the area. I had no idea the Adirondacks had so many landslides and avalanches, but the scars she pointed out on the mountains made it very evident. You can view the named peaks (and learn more about the area) in this interpretive trail guide/map created by the ADK. After a little more time at the top, crowds began to arrive and we decided it was time to make our way down the mountain.
The short trail was a steeper route than the trail we had used to ascend. There were a lot more rocks to scramble over, but it was still mostly moderate terrain. We made sure we remembered to sign out in the register when we passed back by the trailhead. We also made a stop at the Nature Museum. They had neat, touchable displays demonstrating the flora and fauna present in the Adirondacks.
Mount Jo was the perfect stop for a day of light hiking! Back at the High Peaks Information Center, we bought a couple cold drinks and made our way back to the car. It was early afternoon, so we decided it was time to get some lunch and check out the town of Lake Placid. Town turned out to be brutally hot – in the mid 90’s. All the shop keepers and restaurant employees talked about the unusual heat and how lots of people didn’t have air conditioning. I guess even when you head north for vacation, sometimes you still can’t escape southern-style heat like we have in Virginia!
After the tougher hike up Giant Mountain the previous day, we decided on this short but impressive hike up Mount Jo. This hike is located in the Mount Van Hoevenberg Recreation Area near Heart Lake, a jumpoff point for many great hikes. The trail starts across from the check-station and runs briefly along the side of Heart Lake. I always find some of the origins of naming mountains interesting and this mountain has a sad but romantic story –
Henry Van Hoevenberg came to the Adirondacks for the first time in 1877 because of health reasons. While he was up there he met Josephine Schofield from Brooklyn, NY. They climbed Mt. Marcy together and became engaged on the summit. From the summit they spotted a small lake that was about five miles away, they decided that that’s where they would live and build a tourist lodge in the wilderness. Josephine’s parents did not like the whole idea and took their daughter back to Brooklyn. Henry stayed and fulfilled the lovers dream. In 1880 he built the Adirondack Lodge on the shores of the lake. It was the largest log building in the United States at the time and had three stories. He changed the name of the lake from “Clear Pond” to “Heart Lake”. Ha also named the small mountain in the back of his land “Mt Jo” in honor of his lost love. – From summitpost
The trail starts across from the check-station and starts off with a flat footpath that winds through some thick, but beautiful forest. Bear right at the first junction towards Mt. Jo. You’ll pass by the Heart Lake Nature Museum and then reach the junction (trailpost #29) that leads up Mt. Jo. At .5 miles, you will reach another junction that gives you options to take the long path or the short path. The short path is much steeper, so we opted for the long path, taking the left path up to the summit.
While the long path was easier, it was still fairly steep, having to climb up a rocky path. Luckily, this is a shorter hike so you can take your time if need be. At 1.1 miles, we reached the top of the junction with the short path and continued on towards the summit. The path levels out and it is just a quick .1 mile to reach the summit. Right before the summit there is a ladder and some other steep rocks to climb.
The views at the summit were outstanding on this clear, but hazy day. The ledge was fairly wide and we could see part of Heart Lake below with mountains extending above. I spotted several cedar waxwings that were landing on the tops of all the spruces around us. Cedar waxwings have always been one of my favorite birds because of their unique facial markings and this was the largest grouping of them I have ever seen.
We had everything to ourselves for a few minutes before others started arriving – one of the advantages for starting our hike early. On the way back down, we decided to take the short path at 1.35 miles to enjoy some different scenery. The short path was much more steep and rocky so I am glad we made the choice to hike down this section instead of up. We saw many more people coming up as we descended and some were struggling. We arrived at the bottom of the junction with the short trail at 1.75 miles, having descended over 500 feet in that short span. We bore left at the junction and made it back the way we came for the rest of the way. We arrived back at the start at 2.4 miles.
When we got back to the parking lot, we stopped at the ranger station for some cold drinks. As I was waiting to check out, I overheard an older couple that were talking to the ranger about trying to hike up Mt. Marcy. We will cover Mt. Marcy in another post, but to put this into perspective it is the highest peak in New York and the most popular route takes at least 14.5 miles to hike it. It was probably around 1PM, they were wearing jeans, and only had one small liter of water with them. The man said he also had a bad back, but they really wanted to hike it. The ranger told them it was an incredibly bad idea and they didn’t have what they needed to prepare themselves for the hike. After a few minutes, the man came back inside and told the ranger they decided to do something easier (Mt. Jo) and the ranger told them that was a much better idea. I am sure we would have read the rescue story the next day in the news if they had proceeded.
After the hike, we decided to drive into Lake Placid. Every American that lived in the 1980s remembers the Winter Olympics held here and the Miracle on Ice when the American hockey team beat the Russians to win gold. This town still holds the memories of the Olympics and this historic game alive through the stores and shopping – there was even a bakery named Miracle on Icing. We made our way to Lake Placid Brewery and enjoyed a great lunch and sampled several beers from the brewery. We walked a little around the shops, but it was extremely hot that day so we decided to return back to the glorious AC in our cabin.
If you are looking for a family hike with great views for minimal effort, look no further than Mt. Jo.
- Distance – 2.4 miles
(Check out the stats from Map My Hike)*
- Elevation Change – 555 ft.
- Difficulty – 2.5. While the climb is steep in a few areas, the route is short and mostly easy to moderate.
- Trail Conditions – 4. The trail is well maintained and marked. It is still rocky and slippery in places, like most of the terrain in this area.
- Views – 5. You get fantastic payoffs for a relatively easy climb.
- Streams/Waterfalls – 1. There are a couple small trickles of a stream, but nothing noteworthy. Heart Lake, however, is beautiful!
- Wildlife – 3. The heavy foot traffic on this trail probably scares away most wildlife, but we did see a garter snake and a red squirrel.
- Ease to Navigate – 4. Trails are well marked and generally easy to follow.
- Solitude – 2. This is a popular and well-traveled hike.
Directions to trailhead: From Lake Placid, go east on Rt. 73 to Adirondac Loj Rd., which is the first right after the ski jumps. The parking lots are 5 miles from Rt. 73. There is a $10/day parking fee. From the parking lot at the High Peaks Information Center at the end of Adirondak Loj Rd. return to the entrance station and find the trail at the far corner of the snowplow turnaround. GPS coordinates for this hike are: 44.1830461,-73.9644678
Giant Mountain is New York’s 12th tallest peak and the hike to the top is no joke! With about 3,400 feet of elevation gain in just 3.4 miles, lots of slick granite and tangled roots to negotiate, and several short rock scrambles, this is not a beginner’s hike. The views at the top and along the descent make the effort worthwhile, though. The hike winds down with a visit to a lovely glacial pond called the Giant Washbowl.
Giant Mountain is one of the Adirondack High Peaks, a collective name given to the 46 mountains that rise above 4000 feet. A survey later showed that four of these peaks are actually slightly below 4000 feet (and one other should have been included), however the ADK is keeping all of the original 46 peaks in this club. Giant Mountain stands as the 12th highest mountain in New York at 4,627 feet. One thing we quickly discovered on our trip to this area is that there are lots of people trying to peakbag all 46 peaks – kind of a rite of passage for serious NY hikers. So, you will likely find fellow hikers on the trail. Giant also has several different ways to approach the summit, but this path would be the most popular, mostly because of the length and the access to see the Giant Washbowl and Nubble. Some peakbaggers will approach this hike from another trail to the east to bag Rocky Peak Ridge, #20 on the Adirondack High Peak list.
We found the parking lot without much trouble and began our hike on the Roaring Brook Trail. Within the first couple of tenths of a mile, the trail branches off to the left (the trail to the right leads to the base of Roaring Brook Falls) up a steady incline. The trail starts off with a lot of roots, but these are soon replaced with lots of large rocks to navigate. At about .5 miles, you reach a side trail while leads to a nice large campsite and the top of Roaring Brook Falls. Be very careful if you check out the stream at the top, since people have fallen over the falls and died. Backtrack your steps and rejoin the trail to continue the uphill climb. At 1.2 miles, you reach a junction that leads to the Giant Washbowl and Nubble (your return trip on this loop).
Continue uphill on the Roaring Brook Trail. Keep an eye on where you place your feet as you have to navigate along rocky steps through most of the rest of the hike. At 2.9 miles, you reach another junction. Turn left to head to the summit of Giant. This part of the trail had some extremely slick granite slabs to walk up. We had just had rain a couple of days ago, so some of these giant slabs were very tricky to climb. Eventually, you will reach the summit at 3.6 miles. Views at the top are truly breathtaking.
On our descent, we returned back the way we hiked up. Christine was worried about the descent over the slick granite, but we took our time and even scooted down some surfaces on our butts to be extra safe. At 4.4 miles, we reached the junction of the Ridge Trail (also known as the Zander Scott trail) and Roaring Brook Trail. Instead of taking the Roaring Brook Trail back the way we came, we decided we wanted to see the Giant Washbowl. The descent was steep this way down, but there weren’t as many slick granite rocks – the area is more exposed and the sun dries the rock off more quickly. The way back on this trail gave us more incredible panoramic views, so we instantly knew we made the right choice. I would recommend to descend on this trail rather than trying to ascend, because by descending you get the views in front of you instead of having to turn around constantly to enjoy the views. We went at a slow pace through this section since it kept opening up to views. At 5.5 miles, we reached another trail junction. The trail that branches off to the right leads to the Giant Nubble. We opted not to take this route, but from what I have read there are some great views that overlook the Washbowl and surrounding mountains.
Continuing down the Ridge Trail, we came to the Giant Washbowl. The Washbowl is a large pond, serving as a picturesque spot begging you to reflect along the calm waterside. We crossed over a long, but low to the ground, log bridge that stretched over part of the creek. On the other side of the log bridge was another junction and trail sign. We took a right and followed this Giants Washbowl Trail that skirted the edge of the Washbowl. On the other side of the Washbowl, we saw a huge beaver dam and tree stumps marked with gnawing beaver teeth. The trail was mostly level, but did go slightly up and down at minimal climbs and descents. I found this part of the trail to be more wet and slick with some rocks and almost had a bad fall, but was saved by my trekking poles.
At 6.3 miles, this section of the trail rejoined the opposite side of the Nubble Trail. We kept straight on the trail and at 6.7 miles, we reached the junction with the Roaring Brook Trail. We took a left here at this junction and followed the trail back to our car, which should bring you back around the 8 mile mark.
This hike was intimidating and a bit of a challenge. I remember we had read this was a great family hike. We were thinking they would never describe this as a family hike in Virginia, but I guess New York Adirondack hikers are a stronger breed than we are used to in Virginia. We found that to be the case for most of the people we met up here. People in the Adirondacks look healthier, seem to be in better shape, and have a close connection to the outdoors. If you enjoy a bit of a challenge, the views are definitely worth it on this hike. Pictures can’t do the views justice. Be sure to add this one to your agenda if you are looking for a great hike in the High Peaks area.
Adam did a great job doing all our pre-trip hike research for our Adirondacks vacation! Over the course of the week, we hiked a mix of big mountains and small mountains. We saw quiet ponds and cascading waterfalls. Some days were easy strolls and other days were grueling climbs. The hike of Giant Mountain was not our longest hike of the week, but I think it was definitely our toughest. It had a monster elevation gain and I found the terrain physically challenging and a bit frightening in spots.
The climb started off through lovely, shady forest. The trail was cris-crossed with roots, but the footing was generally soft dirt. The climb was steady and relatively steep. As we climbed higher, the dirt trail gave way to increasing rocks. At first, it was jumbles of boulders and cobbles. We made our way, stepping carefully from stone to stone – making sure each was level and anchored before committing our full weight to the step.
Eventually, we started seeing fewer round boulders, and started seeing mostly smooth, slanted granite faces. The granite was wet from storms the night before. It was also covered with a coating of incredibly slick granite sand. The climbing was very mentally challenging for me. I get really nervous when I have to cover slippery terrain that lacks anything to grab onto in case of a slip or slide. My vertigo makes me more prone to the sensation of losing my footing.
There were several spots on the climb of Giant that paralyzed me with panic and fear. On one especially smooth, steep pass; I actually burst into tears because I was so certain I was going to fall off the mountain and die. I gripped the tiny hand and foot holds, took deep breath, focused on the rock face in front of me, and climbed. It sounds silly, but confronting and prevailing over fear like that makes me feel proud. Of course, just when I’m feeling my proudest – some wiry, lean 22-year old guy trots up the same rock face with the agility of a mountain goat. :-) I just remind myself that my vertigo is an extra challenge and I still did it!!!
Before reaching the summit, we crossed a nice saddle between knobs. The trail was fairly level and soft and it was a great reprieve before one final scary rock scale to the summit. It took me a few minutes of deep breathing and positive thinking to climb the one last steep spot to the summit. And the summit was MAGNIFICENT! Of course, some of the beauty was stolen from me because I was already thinking ‘How the heck am I going to get down from here?’ I need to remember to stay in the moment and wish I had taken more time just to enjoy being at the top of Giant.
We chatted with other hikers at the top. We took photos. And then it was time to climb down! As luck would have it, the descent turned out to be no big deal for me. I took my time, scooted on my rear end, and used my trekking poles and tree branches to brace myself. One of the hikers we chatted with at the summit took a hard fall on slick rocks climbing down. It looked like he hit his head, so I shouted to him to stay put and not try to get back up. I started climbing back up toward him to make sure he was OK. Fortunately, he was fine – just bruised and stunned. It’s so easy for one misstep to become a serious injury on terrain like this. In fact, there is a website that lists search and rescue missions for the Adirondacks. Typically, crews go on anywhere from 5-15 missions a week to help injured, sick, and lost hikers.
At the junction of the Roaring Brook and Ridge Trail, we stopped to review our map. We started chatting with another couple we had met on the summit. They didn’t have a map or a plan, so we shared information with them. They decided to hike with us down the Ridge Trail to see the Giant Washbowl. They had an adorable Jack Russell mix dog named Judy! She was an agile and energetic hiker.
The views coming down the Ridge Trail were as nice as the summit. It was like walking into a theater of mountains. There were lots of granite faces and cobbles to negotiate on the way down. Sometimes the trail was so rugged you were left wondering if it really was the trail!
We started seeing glimpses of the Washbowl from above. It was even more beautiful up close. I loved seeing the reflections of clouds and mountains in the water. From there, the rest of the hike was pretty easy and the terrain was much more moderate. We passed (and greatly angered) a couple red squirrels. They’re pretty cute when they’re mad – chattering at you from tree branches.
When we were almost back to the car, we passed a large family group. There were two women and about ten kids under the age of ten – all dressed in swimsuits and sandals. They were considering walking to the top of the waterfall and asked what the terrain was like. Fortunately, we were able to dissuade them from hiking the steeper rockier terrain by telling them that there was nothing really to see – which was true. The top of the falls was really low and unimpressive.
We reached our car and decided ice cream was in order! We definitely earned a treat after a hike like that!
- Distance – 8.1 miles
- Elevation Change – 3408 ft.
- Difficulty – 5. The hiking up here is tough.
- Trail Conditions – 2. While the trail is well-maintained, there are a lot of rocks that make for very tricky footing. There is also a few sections that require you to go up slick granite rocks that can be especially dangerous after recent rainstorms.
- Views – 5. Outstanding panoramic views. Great views of many other high peaks in the area.
- Streams/Waterfalls – 2.5 The first mile of the trail gives you some occasional views of Roaring Brook. A small side trail leads to the top of the Roaring Brook Falls. The Giant Washbowl is also impressive to see.
- Wildlife – 2. This is a popular trail so I wouldn’t expect to see much more than birds.
- Ease to Navigate – 4. Signs gave good information at the junctions. There are different options to include trips to Giant Nubble and also to connect to Hopkins Moutain and Owl Head Lookout from the summit.
- Solitude – 2. Expect to see plenty of people on a nice day at the summit. The summit has a lot of space to spread out and enjoy your own view.
Directions to trailhead: From Keene, NY head southeast on NY-73E/NY-9 S. Continue on NY-73E for about 6.1 miles. There is a small parking lot on the left, which is shortly after you pass through St. Huberts. The trailhead is at the end of the lot. Coordinates for trailhead parking are 44.1502704,-73.7676257.
For our next five posts we’ll be sharing hikes in the Adirondacks High Peaks region. Up first… Flume Knob – this surprisingly tough 4-miler leads to a beautiful view looking toward Wilmington and the Jays.
Well… here we are in New York’s Adirondacks! We’ve wanted to visit the High Peaks region for years, and finally got around to making it happen. We found a delightful cabin in the woods on VRBO.com and rented it for a full week. We arrived late on a Saturday evening, so Sunday was the first day we had to hike. We had seen signs along the way to our cabin saying ‘ALERT: Lake Placid Heavy Race Traffic Sunday’. What we didn’t know was that it was the day of the Lake Place Ironman and most roads in the area would be closed in at least one direction – some roads closed completely.
We had initially selected a nice 9-mile waterfall loop – away from Lake Placid, in hopes of avoiding the race traffic. With GPS coordinates set and maps in hand, we set out toward our trailhead. Our GPS kept re-routing us and the drive time to the trailhead fluctuated wildly from 20 minutes to an hour and 10 minutes. Finally, we came upon a police officer directing traffic. All the rerouting on the GPS was due to real-time road closures for the Ironman. Boooo! We were forced onto a very long, one-way, circuitous route around the race – a route that took us nowhere near our planned hike. At this point, cell service was gone and we didn’t have any way to select a new hike that we could actually get to. So we drove and drove. We watched racers passing by on their bicycle leg in the closed lane of traffic. We both agreed it was a pretty disappointing start to the trip – after spending 11 hours in the car on Saturday, we were ready to hit the trail!
Eventually, we came upon a sign for High Gorge Falls. I told Adam ‘Go there – I remember reading about that place. It looked pretty!’ As it turned out, we had the entirety of this popular tourist stop all to ourselves. I guess no one else even tried to fight the Ironman traffic. We walked the network of trails and marveled at the impressive waterfall plunging through the chasm! After about an hour, we’d seen all there was to see and decided we’d try and figure out a way to get back to the house and spend the afternoon relaxing and enjoying our comfy little cabin. But as luck would have it, we passed a sign on the road labeled ‘Flume Trails’. Adam looked at me and we knew instantly that we were going to stop and check it out. The sign was brown and had little hiker stick figures – and that was good enough for us! Sure… it wasn’t the hike we planned. And yes – we had no idea how long the trail was, how difficult the trail was, or even where it led.
Fortunately, signage at the trailhead indicated that there was a 4-mile out-and-back to Flume Knob. We agreed that knobs usually have decent views and set off along the trail. The trail soon became a network of trails. Some signs indicated the way to Flume Knob, others made no mention of it. Trail names changed quickly from Corridor to Connector to Flume Knob. We just kept hiking uphill, following the path that looked most worn, and then verifying we were still on the right route any time Flume Knob was mentioned on a sign.
I took very few photos on the hike up, because my hands were being kept busy swatting at the army of mosquitoes unleashed in the forest. Bug spray didn’t slow them down – not even a little bit. What had become as an easy, gradual climb became steeper and steeper as we hiked along. I was hiking as fast as I could to outrun the mosquitoes, but the terrain slowed my pace. The trail climbed upward without the ameliorating effect of switchbacks. There were several sections of trail that were washed out and covered with loose, slippery scree. There was a small rock pass that had a rope to help hikers pull themselves upward. There were a couple small blow-downs to negotiate. It was pretty tough going for a little while. After the hike was over, I read a description of the terrain on the Lake Placid website – they used the word ‘aggressive’.
It was all worth it in the end! The view from Flume Knob was magnificent! We climbed around the side of a boulder and came out on a rocky outcropping with super views of the Adirondacks. We could even see tiny specks of triathletes on the road in the valley below. The viewpoint also had enough of a breeze to keep the insects at bay. We enjoyed the view for a while until we were finally joined by a large family group. They had been down in the valley cheering a family member along in the Ironman and decided to climb Flume Knob after he passed by.
The hike down was slow going until the terrain moderated. There were many places that were steep and covered with loose footing. We covered those parts with care and the added help of trekking poles. Once we descended a bit, we were able to complete the hike relatively quickly. When we got back to the trailhead, we took some time to explore Flume Falls. The falls are right next to the parking area and are definitely worth a look!
While it wasn’t the hike we planned, the day turned out really nicely overall! Sometimes it’s fun to let go of expectations and see where fate takes you. That said — I still don’t think I’m a fan of the Ironman!
Christine did a great job with explaining the circumstances of doing this hike over other things we were considering for the day. What she didn’t mention was the day before on our drive up, we decided that it would be nice to stop at a brewery on our way up to stretch our legs and give our dogs a chance to get outside. We opted for Ommegang Brewery in Cooperstown, NY. I haven’t been a big baseball fan since I was a teenager, so I have been a little out of the loop for the timing of baseball events. When we arrived at Ommegang at 2:45PM, they said they were closing at 3PM for a private event (which wasn’t announced on their website). I started seeing lots of people arriving Red Sox gear (which I thought was odd for New York). It turns out they were closing things for a private party for Pedro Martinez for his induction into the Baseball Hall of Fame the next day. I was quite ticked and now have a little disdain for Pedro Martinez. Experiencing road closures this day that were keeping us doing the hike we wanted, I was not feeling the New York love.
The tough climbing on the hike and the incessant mosquitoes had me a little worried about how hiking would be overall in the Adirondacks. However, I will say that if you can just pull off the road, pick a random trail and find views like these, the Adirondacks are quite impressive. And luckily, those mosquitoes were the worst on this hike compared to the others we tried. What was looking to be an irritating day turned out to be great. It is amazing how a little bit of hiking and scenery can change your outlook quickly.
When we first pulled into the small parking lot for this hike, we were quickly joined by several other cars filled with people. We thought they were just friends and families of Ironman participants and wouldn’t want to hike. When we started to see them get on the trail, we decided to get our stuff together quickly to possibly get ahead of them so we weren’t stuck amidst a large group. We were able to start ahead of most of the pack and made our way. As you can see from the map below, there are a lot of interconnecting trails on this hike. You may see people heading out for mountain biking, fishing, rock climbing, or hiking along these trails.
Our experiences with “knobs” typically means some rocky outcropping with decent views, so we decided to give Flume Knob a try. The path started off from the parking lot and we soon took a right to head uphill on the trail as the signs directed. As Christine mentioned, because of the interconnecting trails that happened early on the hike, they didn’t always post the direction to Flume Knob. We did keep pressing forward on the widest, well-traveled trail and we eventually came on to other signs that showed we were going the correct way.
We kept a fast pace as best we could, more for survival purposes. Stopping for a quick drink from a water bottle would mean you would be attacked instantly by the flying piranha-like mosquitoes. The grade of the trail was very tough, with extremely steep sections to climb, often requiring you to pull yourself up with your hands to reach the higher step. Christine got a good deal of sap on her hands from grabbing ahold of trees to help hoist herself up and down. We felt this was one of the hardest two miles with the steepness of terrain. We eventually made it to the top, which just required climbing up a large boulder to a nice view. The viewpoint was a large slab of rock and we took a few moments to take in the view before others arrived.
We had it all to ourselves for about 20 minutes before the other families started to arrive. It turns out all of them were family members or friends of those participating in the Ironman. Their goal was to do a hike for the day and then meet up with them later. When getting to the view, one man asked one of the children if the view was worth the climb and she said “No”. But they pointed out to her that when she reflects back, she would change her mind. I think we would both say the views were worth the climb. On a clear day, you have miles and miles of mountains with barely any sign of civilization around you.
We made our way back down and started to see even more families making the trek up. When we arrived back at our car, we took a side path from the parking lot which led down to a beautiful waterfall. The waterfall has several platforms where the water drops into the gorge and is worth seeing. If you cross the road from the parking lot, you can look down into the gorge to see even more impressive sights.
We felt we made the most of the day. Getting great views on a random hike made us more excited for future hikes in this area.
- Distance – 4 miles
(There are no MapMyHike stats from this hike because we forgot to stop tracking at the end of our hike – oops!)
- Elevation Change – 1326 ft.
- Difficulty – 4. The climbing on this trail is mostly concentrated into a short, extremely steep section. There are no switchbacks to alleviate the climb – it is straight up the mountainside!
- Trail Conditions – 3. The trail was nice easy footing for the first half of the ascent. The footing was trickier with loose dirt and some eroded spots on the climb. There was one section aided by a rope hand-pull.
- Views – 4. Beautiful views over the valley and looking toward bigger peaks.
- Streams/Waterfalls – 5. There is an impressive waterfall gorge right at the beginning of the trail. Don’t miss seeing it at either the beginning or end of your hike.
- Wildlife – 2. We saw/heard red squirrels, chipmunks and birds.
- Ease to Navigate – 1.5. The signage on this network of trails is quite confusing. There are many foot and bike trails that cross multiple times in the woods. Not every sign lists the destination of Flume Knob. We basically continued on whatever trail seemed most uphill and checked our progress with the signs that did list Flume Knob.
- Solitude – 3. It’s hard for us to judge the popularity of this trail. We hiked it on a day that traffic was mostly impeded by the Lake Placid Ironman. Most people stayed away from the race course because the logistical issues it caused with traffic in the area. We saw a few other hikers, most of them knew someone racing and were hiking to pass the time until they could meet up with their racing friend.
Directions to trailhead: From the intersection of Route 73 and Route 86 in Lake Placid, follow Route 86 toward Wilmington. Continue for 10.5 miles to the Flume Parking on the left. Coordinates for the parking lot are 44.3701899,-73.8363359.