The Bubbles – Acadia National Park (ME)

Special: Acadia Edition

We’ve taken a detour from our normal coverage of Virginia hiking and biking!  For the next five posts, we’ll be doing a special edition covering the trails of Acadia National Park in Maine.

The Bubbles hike consists of two small mountains that overlook Jordan Pond.  One of the key features on this hike is a large glacial erratic hanging on the edge of the south Bubble.

Adam and Bubble Rock
Adam pretends to support the giant glacial erratic known as Bubble Rock.  Below: The first viewpoint along the trail up the South Bubble;  A view of Jordan Pond from the South Bubble; You can see how precariously the erratic hangs on the side of the mountain; When you visit the Jordan Pond House you get a great look at the Bubbles from a distance.  The two small mountains have such a distinct shape (photo from another trip).

The First View Jordan Pond from the South Bubble
Precarious
The Bubbles from Jordan Pond

Adam Says…

We had an extraordinarily tough drive up to Maine this year.  We left on a Friday with plans to stay in Sturbridge, MA for one night and then finish the trip to Maine the following day.  We were counting on a lot of weekend and rush hour traffic around Boston, so we thought breaking this into a two-day drive was a good idea.   Well, the drive on the first day should have taken us around 8 hours and ended up taking us over 12 hours.  We ran into an over two-hour delay near Allentown, PA and Connecticut traffic is always ridiculous.  On Saturday, we had a better day of driving to get to Mount Desert Island  We were very eager to stretch our legs when we got there.  When we vacation, we are not ones to idly relax; we like to pack in as much as possible.

We have hiked up the Bubbles a couple of times in the past, and have always enjoyed it.  Since this is a short hike, you should be able to fit it in a narrow time period.  From the Bubble Rock parking lot, start off on the Bubble Rock trail.  At .1 miles, you will reach a junction with the Jordan Pond Carry Trail.  We went past this and just continued straight on the trail.  In about .3 miles, you reach a junction where the North and South Bubble trail split.  Take a left at this junction and continue the path up to reach the top of the South Bubble.  Take in the views and then go back the way you came.  At the previous junction, then follow the path to the North Bubble summit.  You can this take this path back to the junction and then just take a left to head back to your vehicle.

South Bubble View
Another view from the South Bubble. Below: Trails are very well-marked throughout Acadia; Adam scrambles to the top of the boulder pile to reach the summit marker on the South Bubble; The sun came out a bit more by the time we climbed the North Bubble.

Trail Sign  Adam scampers up to the top of the summit marker A View from the North Bubble

When you reach the summit of the South Bubble, take in the views of Jordan Pond and also take some time to find Bubble Rock (not to be confused with Balance Rock, which is located along the Shore Path in downtown Bar Harbor).  It was amazing to see all the people that try to push on the rock in hopes that they can personally move a multi-ton granite boulder.  There was one family that we enjoyed watching that had a couple of younger boys with them.  One of them held a stick like a spear and seemed to have a little violent streak running through him.  He kept wanting to throw his stick at things.  We overheard him telling his family, “When I see things, I want to chuck my spear at it SOOOOO BAAAAAD!”  I’m curious to see how his deviant behavior develops over the years.  From the Bubble Rock, you can also get some views of the Park Loop Road below.  This hike pays off with stunning views despite little effort.

We also enjoyed talking with a couple at the North Bubble.  They were taking part of a quest to visit all of the U.S. National Parks.  They had been to lots of places over the last few weeks and had come from Canada a few days before Acadia.  They took some pictures of the two of us and we returned the favor.  They said they were sending their pictures to their friends that were cursing them at all of the things they have been able to do.  I guess once you make your friends envious, you have to keep it up.  I will say that the North Bubble is a little steeper to climb up, but the views from both of the Bubbles are great.

We hope that you enjoy our reviews of Acadia National Park hikes.  We have been going there for years and I think you will see that over the next few blog entries that this is a place that you should put on your “must visit” list!  There is a reason that nearby Bar Harbor, ME was once called “Eden”.  This area really feels like a paradise to both of us.

Christine Says…

We rolled onto Mount Desert Island, home of Acadia National Park, in the early afternoon after an easy six hour drive from Massachusetts.  It was a beautiful afternoon with a cold front pushing out the last of the dark, gray storm clouds and humidity from the day before.  We were really eager to start enjoying the park, so instead of going to our hotel, we immediately headed to the Acadia Visitor Center.  We changed into hiking clothes, bought our park pass and set out to do the short hike across the north and south Bubbles, overlooking Jordan Pond.

The hike is short and easy/moderate, so it’s very popular with families and novice hikers.  Even so, most of the traffic had cleared out earlier in the day, so we were able to find a parking spot right at the trailhead.  Anyone who visits Acadia knows how rare that is!  Acadia is one of the smallest and most congested national parks, so we always try to plan our activities at non-peak times to avoid crowds.

The trail climbs from the parking lot.  It starts off smoothly, but soon you’re scrambling over roots and up granite ‘stairs’.  It was a little wet from storms the night before, so we had to be careful of our footing.  There aren’t many footing surfaces more slippery than wet granite!

The first viewpoint we came too came atop a rocky shelf, mostly overlooking the mountains, but with a little snip of water visible.  After snapping a few quick photos, we made our way to the summit of the South Bubble.

The View from the North Bubble
The View from the North Bubble. Below: Christine and Adam enjoy views along the hike.

Christine Enjoys the View Adam enjoys the view

Of the two Bubbles, the south peak is quite a bit more popular due to the presence of ‘Bubble Rock’ – a glacial erratic that sits precariously on the side of the mountain.  It looks like it could go rolling down the mountainside at any moment.  It’s always fun to sit and listen to people plotting to push the boulder off its perch.  Some people think it would take a group pushing effort; others contemplate the lift power of a lever.  Personally, I think when the boulder falls; it will be solely Mother Nature who moves it.  I hope it doesn’t happen in my lifetime, because I like the boulder right where it is!  Another fun tradition is to take photos of your hiking buddies pretending to hold the boulder up.

If you hike past Bubble Rock, the trail leads over to an open view of Jordan Pond below.  It’s a lovely spot!

To get to the North Bubble, you simply retrace your steps back to a trail junction marking the path north.  The trail up the North Bubble might be slightly steeper, but it’s still a short and easy hike.  We spent a bit of time atop the peak, enjoying the view and luxuriating in the cool, breezy Maine air.  Being in Maine always makes me feel so happy.

We hiked back down the way we came and were back at our car quickly.  Even though the hike was nothing long or challenging, it was still a perfect way to kick off our week in Acadia!

Trail Notes

  • Distance1.7 miles
  • Elevation Change – approximately 1050 feet.  You first go up about 500 feet up to the South Bubble, go back down 200 feet and then up another 550 feet to the North Bubble
  • Difficulty – 2.5.  These trails are very short, so most people should be able to do them.  The South Bubble is fairly easy with the short distance and I would give about a 2 in difficulty.  The North Bubble is definitely more of a steep trail and is closer to a 3-3.5 in difficulty.
  • Trail Conditions – 3.  The trail is very well-maintained and traveled.  However, some of the footing can be slick in the rain on the granite.  The North Bubble does have some steeper sections which make the footing a little more treacherous.
  • Views – 4.  Great views from both Bubbles.
  • Wildlife – 0.  We didn’t really see anything, but you may be able to see birds soaring above or relaxing on the lakes below.
  • Ease to Navigate – 3.5.  This path we took was more like a T, since you split off in different directions.  Almost all of the trails in Acadia lead to other options to combine into loops with other trails.   
  • Solitude – 1Due to the distance, this is an incredibly popular hike.  You will very likely have several hikers to share in the views if you go over the summer.

Directions to trailhead: On the Park Loop Road in Acadia National Park, keep following the road until you reach the Bubble Rock parking lot.  This is just south of the Bubble Pond parking lot, so don’t be confused by the name.  The trailhead starts from about the middle of the parking lot. 

Twin Pinnacles Trail

The Twin Pinnacles trail is a gentle trail that takes you to the highest point in Grayson Highlands State Park.  The views from each of the Pinnacles are nothing short of spectacular.

View from Little Pinnacle
The view from Little Pinnacle.  Below: Although this blog post primarily covers the Twin Pinnacles trail, don’t miss hiking up through Massie Gap to where it meets the Appalachian Trail.  You’ll see ponies and spectacular scenery.

Ponies  Grayson Higlands Hiking Grayson highlands view

AT through Massie Gap More Ponies Grayson Highlands view

Christine Says…

When visiting the southwest region of Virginia, a visit to Grayson Highlands State Park is practically mandatory.  That park and the high country around Mount Rogers might be my favorite spot in the entire state of Virginia for many reasons.  The lovely boreal forest seen in much of that area is uncommon elsewhere in our state.  The bald, open high country is stunningly beautiful.  And, the kicker… there are WILD PONIES.  Honestly, if there was nothing besides the wild ponies to set Grayson Highlands apart, I would still love it best.  I grew up a horse crazy girl and that sentiment has never really abated in my adulthood.

Last time we visited Grayson Highlands, we hiked up Mount Rogers.  This time we wanted to try something new, so we decided to hike the Twin Pinnacles trail, which lies completely within the state park’s boundaries.  But before we set off on our new hike, I insisted that we hike far enough up the Appalachian Trail that I could see and photograph some of the ponies and their spring foals.  The wild ponies of Grayson Highlands are not everywhere in the park.  The best chances to see them are hiking through Massie Gap and then south along the Appalachian Trail.

As it turned out, the ponies were all tucked into the shade and relaxing at the higher elevations.  We ended up hiking a little over halfway up Mount Rogers before we found the herd.  We enjoyed watching a small family group of ponies – two mares, two foals and a stallion for about an hour before we headed back down to do our ‘real’ hike.

Foal along the AT
This foal looked so beautiful with the mountainous background.  Below: Adam walking along the Virginia Highlands Horse Trail; A couple shots of the Catawba Rhododendron in bloom.

Adam hiking across Massie Gap Catawba Rhodedendron Rhodedendron Along the AT

We also spent a little time headed slightly north on the Appalachian Trail so Adam could look for a geocache.  While he did that, I enjoyed the spectacular blooms of the Catawba Rhododendron.  They’re so colorful, and really set the mountainside awash in brilliant purple.

By the time we got to the trailhead for Twin Pinnacles, which is located behind the park’s Visitor Center, I was already sunburned, tired and hungry.  Thankfully, Twin Pinnacles is a very, very short hike.  At 1.6 miles, it barely makes my personal cut-off of one-mile for actually being considered a ‘hike’.  Anything shorter than a mile is just a walk in my book!

For such a short hike, Twin Pinnacles packs in a ton of majestic scenery!  The trail climbs very gradually to the highest point in the park – Little Pinnacle – at 5084 feet.  You would think Big Pinnacle would be the taller, but the name is a slight misrepresentation.

From the top of Little Pinnacle, we had views in every direction.  We could see Christmas Tree farms down in the valley.  We could see Mount Rogers and Whitetop Mountain off in the distance.  All through the forest, bands of red spruce were visible.  They really stand out among other conifers due to their richer, russet colors.

Trail Leaving Little Pinnacle
The trail leaving Little Pinnacle.

Walking across the rocky, bare top of the mountain was reminiscent of hiking in New England.  We quickly dipped back into the trees and walked through a small saddle over the Big Pinnacle.  After a short, very steep climb, we stepped out onto bare rock overlooking a gorgeous vista.  Of the two Pinnacles, I think Big Pinnacle has slightly nicer views of the park – especially looking down into Massie Gap.  We enjoyed the breeze atop the Pinnacle, and I spent some time daydreaming more about the ponies and what they might be up to.  (yes… really – I love those ponies!)

After leaving the second Pinnacle, we had a short walk back to the Visitor Center and a long ride back home.  I wish we had more time to spend in the area – I love Grayson Highlands!

Adam  Says…

The last time we had visited Grayson Highlands, we spent most of the day at Mount Rogers and had little time or energy left for anything else.  I thought it would be nice to see some other features of this wonderful state park.  Since the weather and views were lovely, we tried out the Twin Pinnacles Trail.

Storm Shelter
The 1.6 mile loop trail has several storm shelters built by a local boy scout troop.  Below: The trail starts behind the visitors center.

Twin Pinnacles trailhead

During our morning in Grayson Highlands, Christine was determined to see wild ponies.  She stated that she didn’t want to leave until she saw ponies and hopefully foals.  In my best Mr. T impression, I said “I pity the foals” and we started our search.  We ran into an Appalachian Trail thru-hiker.  I wish we had stopped to get his trail name, because he was such a happy guy.  He was from Florida and just said that he is just amazed every day at what he is doing.  He said that he often goes blue-blazing (since all of the AT is white-blazed, trails off the AT are typically blue-blazed) to see other things that people recommend.  He wasn’t out to set any records for speed, he was just enjoying every moment.  I hope he makes the trip the whole way.  I kept thinking that he is adding on a lot of extra miles that I know many other hikers wouldn’t want to do.  I was asking if he had seen any ponies and he said he walked through about four herds getting to this spot today, so I knew we were on the right path.  Shortly after we parted ways, we ran into our first two ponies.  They were a little stand-offish, but they didn’t run away from us.   These ponies looked a little rough, like they needed some time with a grooming brush.  Christine wanted to continue to try and find some more groups of ponies.  Shortly after we continued to climb up the AT, I looked back to enjoy the view (and catch my breath) and I saw some ponies not far from where we were hiking.  We decided to climb back down and check them out and Christine saw there were two foals with them.  We spent about 45 minutes just watching their behavior from a safe distance before I nudged Christine away to continue on with our day.  I’m sure she could have stayed all day looking at this set of ponies.

There are two different options for this trail.  You can start from the parking lot at Massie Gap and hike steeply uphill via the Big Pinnacle Trail.  We decided to go the easier way, since we had already spent a good time hiking before this.

Big Pinnacle overlooking Massie Gap
Big Pinnacle overlooking Massie Gap.

To get to the trailhead, just continue on the park road, Grayson Highland Lane, until you reach the parking lot to the Visitor’s Center.  Once you park the car, you will have to climb up several stairs until you reach the Visitor’s Center.  As you are looking directly at the Visitor’s Center, the red-blazed trail begins behind and to the left of the Center.  After a short distance, you will reach a larger bulletin board with a map of the trail where the trail forks.  Take the left fork.  You will soon come across the first of four storm shelters along the trail that were created as an Eagle Scout project.  You will reach the first rocky outcrop, Little Pinnacle around .7 miles.  The Little Pinnacle is actually higher than the Big Pinnacle in elevation.  The trail continues on for a few tenths of a mile until you reach the sign for the Big Pinnacle overlook.  The trail up to the Big Pinnacle consists of steep stairs leading to the top, but it isn’t too far of a climb to the top.  Once there, you should be able to see the Massie Gap parking lot below.  Go back to the sign and continue to follow the signs leading back to the Visitor’s Center.  You should finish your trip at 1.6 miles.

I did do a little geocaching on the trail while I was there.  In one of the geocaches, I found a toy Pinnochio from the Shrek movies.  I decided to grab it (in geocaching, you typically take something and leave something in the container).  As we continued to hike, I kept thinking that I heard something barking or voices that were in the distance.  I asked Christine a couple of times if she heard anything and she said she didn’t.  After thinking that I was going crazy, I finally realized that this Pinnochio was making noises.  He makes some grunts and occasionally says, “I’ll never become a real boy”.   We had a good laugh at my expense over that.  If you would like to find the geocaches on the trail, they are:

For a hiker in Virginia, it really doesn’t get any better than a visit to Grayson Highlands State Park.  This is truly a magical place!

Trail Notes

  • Distance 1.6 miles
  • Elevation Change – 250 feet
  • Difficulty – 2.  The trail is mostly flat and easy with the exception of one short, steep climb up Little Pinnacle.
  • Trail Conditions – 4.  The trail is heavily-traveled and in great shape.
  • Views – 5.  Spectacular views from one of Virginia’s highest spots.
  • Wildlife – 1.  We saw some birds. There might be bears and deer in the area, but we didn’t see anything.
  • Ease to Navigate – 4.5. There are a couple turns, but if you follow the signs you’ll easily be able to stay on the loop.
  • Solitude – 2.  The short length and excellent views make this trail very popular.

Directions to trailhead: From Abingdon, take 58 East until you reach Grayson Highlands State Park on the left through SR 362. Continue on Grayson Highland Lane until you reach the parking lot for the Visitor’s Center.  The trailhead is behind and to the left of the Visitor’s Center.

Rocky Knob

This short ‘lollipop loop’ hike takes you across high cow pastures offering great views of the valley below.  Eventually you climb to the summit of Rocky Knob and enjoy visiting a former Appalachian Trail hut.  The views from the hut and the rocky outcropping on the summit are excellent!

Open Meadow and Trail Marker
The trail climbs up across open meadow. Below:  We sampled fourteen different wines at Chateau Morrisette; Hiking in open pasture;  The hike takes you across the Saddle Overlook.

Chateau Morrisette  Hiking in Open Pasture  Saddle Overlook

Christine Says…

A couple years ago we visited the Virginia Highlands area and did some hiking at Hungry Mother, biked the Virginia Creeper and climbed Mount Rogers.  We had such a great time, that we decided a return trip was in order. We stayed in the small town of Hillsville – right off I-77.  It was the perfect spot to use as a base for a number of activities in the area.

The first thing we decided to do was head up to the Meadows of Dan to explore that area of the Blue Ridge Parkway.  We settled on a visit to Chateau Morrisette to sample wine, a short hike in the Rocky Knob area and a photo shoot at Mabry Mill.

Normally, I wouldn’t drink a bunch of wine before hiking in 95 degree weather, but it was the only way the schedule would allow us to fit everything into one evening.  So… off I went to drink fourteen different kinds of vino!  Chateau Morisette was such a great place!  Their winery is right off the Blue Ridge Parkway, nestled into the rolling Virginia countryside.  They have a large tasting room with a friendly staff.  A variety of adorable and friendly dogs hang out and roam freely around the winery.  Outside, there are pavilions and gazebos where people can lounge and enjoy their wine. I enjoyed every single wine I tasted – especially their Chambourcin.  I also like that they donate part of the profit from their Liberty wine to support the training and placement of service dogs.  We spent about an hour at the winery, purchased some bottles of the wines I liked best and headed on our way to the Rocky Knob area – just a few miles north on the Parkway.

We parked at the Rocky Knob campground and crossed the road to find the trailhead.  To access the trail, you can either go through the gate or squeeze through the zig-zag.  The first part of the trail climbs across open meadow,  The views were amazing… rolling mountains in every direction.  The sun was really beating down on us.  I was so hot and thirsty (probably from the wine!) that I drank nearly two liters of water in the first half hour of hiking.

View from Rocky Knob
The view from Rocky Knob.  Below: The shelter sits on a hillside above a rocky outcropping; A better view of the shelter, outside and inside.

Rocky Knob Hut Rocky Knob Hut Sideview Inside the Hut

At the crest of the hill, we passed through another zig-zag fence opening and entered the woods.  The forest was full of wildflowers, azaleas and mountain laurel.  Some of the flowers were different than anything we have in the Shenandoah, and the azaleas were predominantly orange (instead of the pink ones we have near us).  In the shade, it was much cooler and more comfortable for hiking.

We passed out of the woods briefly to cross the parking lot at the Saddle Overlook.  At the south end of the overlook, we entered the woods again and began an uphill climb.  At the trail junction, we followed the right arm of the loop and ascended to the Rocky Knob Shelter.  The shelter used to sit along the Appalachian Trail and served as an overnight stop for thru-hikers.  The AT was re-routed much further west a long time ago, but the shelter was left intact.  In front of the building, a small descent takes you down to a rocky ledge with a spectacular view (the view is almost as good from the shelter itself.)  The hillside was covered with mountain laurel – so gorgeous.

We hiked a little bit past the shelter.  There was one more nice view, but after that the trail started to descend toward the picnic area, so we turned around.  The return trip follows the steeper arm of the loop downhill.  As we walked back, the views from the trail were even prettier.  The sun was dropping in the sky, making the light softer and warmer.

When we got back to the pasture area, the cattle had come out from the shady areas they had been hiding.  They looked at us curiously and trotted off when we got too close.  We made it back to the car a good while before sunset, but early enough that I had enough time to shoot Mabry Mill.

It was a great, short hike!  I wish it hadn’t been so hot, but it was otherwise a perfect evening.

Adam Says…

We got checked in around 2:00PM and decided that we should try and make the best of the afternoon.  Christine has been wanting to photograph Mabry Mill on the Blue Ridge Parkway for a while, so we thought it would be best to hit that closer to sunset.  We decided to try and squeeze in a hike beforehand.  We debated about going to Fairy Stone State Park, but opted for this short hike on the Blue Ridge Parkway, just north of Mabry Mill.  We drove past Mabry Mill and saw the signs for Chateau Morrisette winery.  After Christine went through a quick wine-tasting, we made our way up to the Rocky Knob trail.

Mountain Laurel
The mountain laurel was spectacular! Below: More wildflowers, azaleas and mountain laurel.

Wildflowers Azaleas More Mountain Laurel

There are many ways to approach this hike.  We consulted our Falcon Guide, which just got us confused on which was the best way to go.  They list about three different hikes for this one, but don’t really provide appropriate directions for all three.

We started the trail, by parking our vehicle right outside the Rocky Knob campground.  Directly across the parkway road from the campground entrance, there is a fat-man squeeze leading in to a field.  This is to keep the cows that occupy this field , so don’t try to open any gates.  After crossing through, head right following the blazed posts through the grassy fields.  You will slowly ascend this hillside.  At .6 miles, the trail leads to another fat-man squeeze that leads into the woods.  At .75 miles, you will come out of the woods and reach the Saddle Overlook area.  Keep going straight and go back into the woods.  At .83 miles, you will reach a junction.  This is the beginning of the lollipop loop section of the trail.  Take the right branch.  Just about another 150 feet, you will reach another junction.  Take the left to start the red-blazed trail.  This trail leads uphill fairly steeply with a switchback.  At 1.0 miles, you will reach the end of this trail, which leads to the Rocky Knob shelter and joins back with the blue-blazed Rock Castle Gorge Trail.  Head up the trail (north) just about 150 feet up the trail and you will come to the Rocky Knob overlook.  Backtrack and go back to the cabin to enjoy the views and explore the cabin.  Head down the Rock Castle Gorge Trail (south), passing by the Saddle Overlook and making your way back to your vehicle.

Adam takes in the view
Adam takes in the view from the second view, past the shelter. Below: Cows were grazing in the pasture on our return hike; A last view across the open meadows.

Cows Open Views

The temperature for the day was over 90 degrees and the sun was beating down on us relentlessly, but the views that you get from the field, the Saddle Overlook, and the shelter were truly breathtaking.  It was a clear day, with no threat of rain, and even in the haze we felt like we could see for fifty miles around us.  The shelter was impressive too.  The Appalachian Trail used to run through this area and this was once used by thru-hikers.  I can just imagine how wonderful of a shelter this would be – the sunrise from this spot must have been amazing.

Christine and I were both impressed with the landscape along the way.  There is a longer 10.6 mile hike through the Rock Castle Gorge that will be something to add to our “must hike” list on a day when we have more time.

Trail Notes

  • Distance 2.3 miles
  • Elevation Change – 480 feet
  • Difficulty – 2.  The uphill is nice and gradual.
  • Trail Conditions – 4.  The trail is nicely maintained with a few rocky spots.
  • Views – 4.5.  The views from the meadow and the Rocky Knob summit were beautiful!
  • Waterfalls/Streams – 0.  None
  • Wildlife – 1.  Maybe the cows count?
  • Ease to Navigate – 3.5.  Some of the maps and descriptions are a little confusing.
  • Solitude – 3.  It’s hard to judge this.  We visited on a weekday evening.  I assume this area is heavily trafficked on weekends.

Directions to trailhead: The Rocky Knob campground is located around mile 168 on the Blue Ridge Parkway.  Park your car just outside the campground, cross the parkway, and begin the hike by going through the fat-man squeeze and going right up the meadow.

Compton Peak

Compton Peak is a short hike in the northern district of Shenandoah National Park. It has great views and requires just a little effort.

Adam Takes in the View from Compton Peak
Adam takes in the view from the western side of Compton Peak. Below: A trail marker points the way to both the eastern and western views; This area was burned in a large forest fire in the winter of 2011. A resident on the park perimeter started the fire by dumping hot ashes from his wood stove. The fire ended up burning over 2000 acres and closed many trails (including the one to Compton Peak); The eastern view is somewhat obstructed.

Double Views Burnt Area Eastern Viewpoint

Adam Says…

There has been so much rain this spring, that it seems next to impossible to find a pretty day to enjoy a hike.  Last weekend, after checking out the weather forecast, we decided to take a quick trip up to Shenandoah National Park to squeeze in a hike before the clouds and rain came (again).

The directions for the hike are rather simple.  From the parking lot, just cross Skyline Drive and start up the white-blazed Appalachian Trail.  The trail ascends steadily.  At .2 miles you will come across a large boulder to the left of the trail. At .7 miles, the trail tends to level off to a slight incline.  At .8 miles, you will reach the post that marks the spur trails to the east and west for views for peaks.  Both of these spur trails are .2 miles in length.  The west trail to the right ascends slightly, but the views are quite impressive.  The east trail to the left descends most of the way and eventually leads to a large boulder to ascend for the obstructed views.

Adam Makes His Way Up the Trail
Adam makes his way south along the Appalachian Trail. Below: We saw this buck with new antlers near the trailhead; Scaling a huge boulder along the trail; Native azaleas in bloom.

Buck Giant Boulder Native Azaleas

We spent a good while taking in the beautiful views on the west trail.  We watched several vultures and a hawk float on the wind drafts.  After we headed back from the trail, we saw the clouds starting to move in.  We were thrilled we were able to get in a short hike before things clouded up.

Since we’ve recently been doing some longer hikes, this felt a little like cheating.  But I tried to think that it isn’t about how many miles you try to pile up, but the enjoyment you get from the scenery around you.

Christine Says…

Compton Peak was not our original plan.  We hoped to drive down to Peaks of Otter and hike Flat Top, the companion hike to Sharp Top.  But like so many other weekends this spring, our plans have been foiled by impending rain.  To put things in perspective, by mid-May, our area should receive a little over 12 inches of rain.  In spring 2011, we’re already pushing 22 inches of rain.  It’s definitely made everything lush and green.  Waterfalls are flowing abundantly.  But, it’s always slick and muddy, views are cloudy, thunder is always rumbling and lightning flashes almost nightly – and let’s face it – it’s no fun to walk in a downpour.

Christine on the Western Viewpoint
Christine relaxes on the rocks. Below: We enjoyed the clear views and beautiful sky; The climb to the eastern overlook was really rocky.

Beautiful Sky The Climb to the Eastern Summit was Rocky

We knew we had about a four hour window of sunshine before clouds and rain moved in, so we chose a short hike in Shenandoah.  Compton Peak fit the bill nicely.

As we were getting situated, we saw a thru-hiker descending the trail.  I’m always struck by how fast they hike; so business-like.  We also passed a couple other backpackers and hikers coming off the trail.  We chatted with one older couple.  When we asked them “How was the view?”, they responded that they hadn’t made it that far.  Compton Peak is a really short hike, so I was really surprised they turned around before getting to the overlook.

The ascent was fairly gradual, but for some reason I was feeling completely drained on this particular morning.  My boots felt lead-lined and I didn’t have any energy.  It made me a little glad that we chose a short hike for a change!

I loved the western summit of Compton Peak!  The rock was nice and flat.  It gave me a perfect place to lie flat on my back and feel the breeze blow over my face.  The sky was absolutely gorgeous – deep blue and full of a variety of cloud formations.  The viewpoint had a lot of native azaleas in full bloom surrounding the rocky overlook.  It was really pretty.

Thruhiker Headed North
A thru-hiker heads north along the Appalachian Trail.

The eastern summit was underwhelming.  In fact, I didn’t bother to walk all the way out to the rock after Adam told me the view was obstructed.  The hike back was all downhill and took only 15-20 minutes.  It was a little odd being on such a short hike after doing so many longer hikes lately.  If I hadn’t been so tired, I probably would have felt like such a short hike was ‘incomplete’.

Trail Notes

  • Distance2.4 miles out and back. This includes the two spur hikes to the Peak views
  • Elevation Change – 835 feet.
  • Difficulty –2. This is a pleasant and easy section to hike.
  • Trail Conditions – 3. Very nicely maintained and easy to walk.  There are a few rocky sections.  The East trail at the top had water running on the trail and was quite slick on the descent.
  • Views3.5 The best views are from the West trail
  • Waterfalls/streams – 0. Non-existent.
  • Wildlife – 1.5. We didn’t see anything along the way, but the peaks should be a good spot to check out some birds of prey.
  • Ease to Navigate – 4. Follow the white blazes until you reach the top post.  There is a junction here that leads to blue-blazed trails to the east and west.
  • Solitude – 2. You will likely see people along the trail, due to the ease of hike.  The overlooks don’t have room for a lot of people, so you could be sharing the views with others.

Directions to trailhead: Park at mile 10.3 on Skyline Drive at the Compton Gap parking area.  The trail begins across the road from the parking lot.

Beaver Lake Trail

The Beaver Lake trail is a 2.5 mile loop around a 24 acre (and shrinking) lake in Pocahontas State Park.

Reflections on Beaver Lake
Reflections on Beaver Lake.  Below: Some of the trail around the lake is traversed by boardwalks; Two docks overlook the lake; a shallow stream feeds the lake.

Boardwalk Around Beaver Lake Dock Shallow Stream

Christine Says…

We happened to be in Richmond for the CAA Men’s Basketball Tournament (JMU lost in the first round – Boooooooo!) last weekend.  Since we had some free time on Saturday morning, we headed over to Pocahontas State Park for a short leg-stretcher hike.  It was a warm, but cloudy, day – spring is definitely in the air.  On our way to the park, we even saw some cherry trees starting to flower.

I was surprised by how big Pocahontas State Park is – especially so close to Richmond.  As it turns out, Pocahontas is actually Virginia’s largest state park.  After paying our $5.00 parking fee, we headed over to the CCC Museum and Nature Center area, where our trail began.

The hike traces the perimeter of Beaver Lake, using a series of gentle paths and boardwalks.  We followed the trail counterclockwise.  The near side of the path was relatively flat, while the far side climbed up a small ridge and followed a series of easy ups and downs.

Adam finds a geocache
Adam finds a geocache.  Below: Trails in the park are clearly marked; Fallen trees have been carved into chairs; An abandoned beaver dam.

Trail Marker Tree Chair old beaver dam

Beaver Lake is slowly being consumed by the landscape around.  Erosion and plants are reclaiming the water, and turning the area into a freshwater marsh.  There wasn’t much growing when we visited, but in the spring and summer, the area is covered with water lilies, cattails, and other aquatic plants.  We saw a few buffleheads on the water, but they were too far off to get a decent photo.  We also saw evidence of beavers – an old dam and lots of gnawed trees.  Though, I doubt any beavers still live in the lake.  It’s probably too shallow.

One of the things I really liked along the trail were the tree stumps that had been sawed into chairs.  What a clever way to make use of a fallen tree!

The hike was short and easy, so we were done within the hour.  I’m really looking forward to nicer weather, longer hikes and hopefully several overnight backpacking trips.  On the way back to the hotel, we even got the chance to stop by REI!  That was a real treat for us because we only have one very small outdoor store in our area.  We were able to pick up some new backpacking gadgets and I got a new pair of hiking shoes.  I can’t wait to try them out!

Adam Says…

When we were thinking about checking out the CAA Men’s Basketball Tournament, I suggested that we try to find a hike in the area.  I had been a few years ago to Pocahontas State Park and thought it would be a great place to start.

It is great that Richmond has a nice park just about 20 minutes away in Chester, VA.  This park is quite popular with people trying to get outdoors without having to drive too far.  This park is definitely a multi-use area.  We saw lots of mountain bikers through the park and we saw several trail runners on the Beaver Lake Trail.  The footing is perfect for trail running and only has a few hills, making it great exercise or cross-country training.

Buffleheads
Buffleheads on the lake. Below: The park has a lot of holly growing; The first buds of spring; The trails are popular with bikers.

holly tree bud Bikes

We parked at the nature center and found the signs for the blue-blazed Beaver Lake trail. The trail passed by an old furnace and then descended until you reach the lake.  At the lake, there is a nice pier to view the water and do some birdwatching.  We then took the trail counter-clockwise, which went around the lake.  During most of the beginning of the trail, the lake was in view.  We were serenaded by frogs in the lake, which reminded us both of the sounds of didgeridoos.  Along this northern part of the lake, there are a couple of places to get close-up views of the lake.  After about .75 miles, the lake shows evidence of being shrunk from what it once was as a boardwalk leads you across the swampy, marshy remains of the lake.  I can only imagine the mosquitoes along the marsh during the summer.

After reaching the halfway point, the trail begins to climb up the hillside, being rather steep in some sections.  The trail winds around and crosses a small stream at 1.5 miles.  The trail then climbs up the hillside until views of the lake are seen again around 1.75 miles.  You will then descend for a short distance and continue the trail walking along the southern side of the lake.  Around 2.1 miles, you will come to a nice view of a dam at the lake.  After crossing the bridge at the bottom of the dam, you will take a short ascent.  You can either make your way back to the pier at this point or take the orange-blazed spillway trail back up, passing by the CCC museum, before reaching your vehicle.

Dam and Spillway
There is a dam and spillway at the end of the lake.

For any geocachers, there were two geocaches to find along this trail:

I enjoyed our trip to Pocahontas State Park.  If you’re ever in the area and want a decent leg-stretcher, try out the Beaver Lake Trail.

Trail Notes

  • Distance2.5 miles
  • Elevation Change – Maybe 150-200 feet
  • Difficulty – 1.5. There are several easy climbs on the ridge side of the lake.
  • Trail Conditions – 4. The trail is very well-maintained and easy to walk on.
  • Views3 The lake views were lovely.
  • Waterfalls/streams – 3. The stream through the woods was pretty and the dam creates a nice waterfall at the end of the lake.
  • Wildlife – 3. This seems to be a good place to see water birds.
  • Ease to Navigate –5. The trail is a well-marked loop.
  • Solitude –1. This park is located next to densely populated Richmond. We saw lots of trail runners, hikers, bikers and dog-walkers.

Directions to trailhead: From Route 10/Iron Bridge Road in Chester, VA turn on to Beach Road/State Route 655 (near shopping center).   Continue on this road following the signs for Pocahontas State Park.  Enter the main entrance on State Park Road.  Pay the parking fee ($5 on weekends) and park at the nature center.  You should be able to start seeing signs from the parking lot to the Beaver Lake Trail.

Snowshoe Trek on the Middle Ridge Trail (WV)

With all its snow, Canaan Valley provides wonderful opportunities for southerners to try out snowshoeing.  The 2.5 mile Middle Ridge trail in Canaan Valley State Park is a pleasant trek through the woods.

Doe in the Woods
A whitetail doe watches us in the woods.  Below: Adam walks along the trail, being careful not to ruin the cross country ski tracks; The Blackwater River is covered with snow and ice; A sign cautions cross country skiers to take care on the steep hill.

Walking Along Along the Blackwater River Steep Hill Caution

Adam Says…

We wanted to go snowshoeing at least once this winter.  We enjoyed going to Canaan Valley last year, so we decided to take another trip to the high country of West Virginia.  There are several short trails throughout Canaan Valley State Park that are suitable for snowshoeing or cross-country skiing.

Snowshoes can be rented for a day behind the Canaan Valley Lodge near the ice rink for $20/adult.  You can also pick up a map and trail guide of the Canaan Valley Resort area at the lodge.  The last two times we had rented more modern, aluminum snowshoes; this time, they had the traditional snowshoes with rawhide webbing.  While we felt the traditional snowshoes seemed a little heavier initially, I actually found they were a little easier to use.  The snow tends to not get piled on the top as often as with the modern snowshoes, making them feel a little lighter while on the trails.

Tubbs Snowshoes
We rented snowshoes from Canaan Valley State Park.

We left the rental center and drove to the Balsam Swamp Overlook.  From here, the trail starts cutting down across the meadow.  At .2 miles, take a right on the green-blazed Middle Ridge Trail.  This trail starts off with a short, steep uphill before easing to a gentle incline for the first mile.  You then go down a steep hill until you reach the view of the Blackwater River at 1.2 miles.   This area along the river has the best views of the meadow and the mountain ridges in front of us were covered with rime ice.

The trail takes a sharp left at this point and you follow the river for about .1 mile.  At 1.3 miles, you reach a junction with a spur trail to the Railroad Grade Trail.  Ignore this spur and continue on the green-blazed Middle Ridge Trail.  You will begin your ascent.  The trail ascends about 150 feet over the next .7 miles.  While the map made it look quite tough, I felt that the elevation was not too bad.  Near the crest, the trail tends to wind through the forest.  You will then start your descent.  At 2.1 miles, you will reach another junction leading to the Ridge Top Trail.  Ignore this trail also and just stay on the Middle Ridge Trail.  You will then steeply descend the Middle Ridge Trail.  Stay straight on the trail until you reach your vehicle at the Balsam Swamp Overlook.

Rest Stop at the Trail Junction
Adam takes a rest stop at the trail junction.

This snowshoe trip was more challenging than the Deer Run-Mill Run trails that we did last year, but it was worth it.  The snow tends to keep people away from many of the hiking trails, so I really find it quite peaceful when all you can hear is your breath and the light crunching of the snow below you.

We finished up our trip with a short drive to Sirianni’s Cafe in Davis, WV.  It is probably our favorite pizza place on the planet and you shouldn’t miss it.  If you have the option, try to get a seat near the back left of the restaurant and read the notes/business cards placed under the glass-covered tables.

Christine Says…

I love making a quick trip over to West Virginia for a day of snowshoeing.  It’s become one of my favorite winter traditions!  We chose to go on a weekend right after the area received a little over a foot of new snow.  The conditions were great – the snow was a bit heavy and soft, but it was still fresh and pristine – a real winter wonderland.

I liked the traditional showshoes we rented.  They were made by Tubbs and looked like snowshoes that explorers or fur trappers in the 1800’s might have used.  The trail we chose didn’t offer any grand views or spectacular scenery, but it was a beautiful walk through the woods.  The few trails we’ve showshoed on before were completely flat, but the Middle Ridge trail has a couple “easy” climbs.    I say easy in quotes because climbing in showshoes is always harder work than walking on a dirt trail.  It’s also tough to snowshoe across deep, unbroken snow.  Even though the snowshoes hold you aloft and prevent you from having to go post-holing through deep snow, you’ll still sink a little bit if the snow is deep and soft.

Trees and Snow
The trees and fresh snow made a beautiful and stark landscape. Below: Adam looks down on the trail from the Balsam Swamp parking area; Walking uphill across the open meadow; The snow was heavy and deep.

Adam looks at the trail Walking Uphill Deep snow

We really tried our best to stay off the cross-country tracks, but in some places the trail was too narrow or the tracks were already trashed by other walkers.  I have to admit, I was thankful whenever we got a chance to walk on already-broken snow!

The lowest point on the trail is along the Blackwater River.  We couldn’t see the river at all under all of the ice and snow.  It looked more like an open field than a river basin.  After leaving the river, we had a slow and steady uphill back to the top of the ridge.

I enjoyed coming across a lone doe making her way through the deep snow.  Deer in the Canaan area are very accustomed to humans, so she made no effort to run when she saw us.  It gave me the opportunity to get a couple photos.

The rest of the hike along the ridge and back down to the parking area was easy and quick.  After changing clothes and turning our snowshoes in, we headed over to Davis, WV for our pizza lunch.  Sirianni’s was recently named West Virginia’s best pizza by USA Today.  In addition to great food, I love the atmosphere in their little restaurant.  It’s such a warm and cozy place!

Sirianni's pizza
We got to sit in our favorite little corner booth at Sirianni’s – best pizza in West Virginia.  Below:  People from all over have written notes to tuck under the glass tabletops in the back corner of Sirianni’s – such fun to read!;  Sirianni’s is right on the main street through Davis, WV.

Table notes at Sirianni's Davis WV

Trail Notes

  • Distance – 2.5 miles
  • Elevation Change – about 300 feet total.
  • Difficulty – 2. The snow makes this easy trail a little more challenging. Take some breaks when you’re tired, but overall, this trail is quite manageable for most people.
  • Trail Conditions – 3.  While there were cross-country ski tracks, we tried to avoid those at all times for other people.  Walking on snowshoes and establishing new tracks can be challenging, so it is best if going with others to alternate who is breaking the trail.
  • Views –2. The only views are of the meadow and mountains near the Blackwater River.
  • Waterfalls/streams 2. You have views of the Blackwater River, but you won’t be getting too close to the river from the trail.
  • Wildlife –3. You are likely to see some deer on this trail any time of year.
  • Ease to Navigate – 3. Without any previous tracks, this could be challenging, but look for the green blazes on the trees.
  • Solitude –5. We were the only ones on the trail, but this trail is used somewhat often by cross-country skiiers.  If you’re going when it is not snow-covered, I would lower the solitude rating, since it is a popular, short hiking trail.

Directions to trailhead: The Canaan Valley State Park is located off Route 32.  For snowshoe rentals, follow the signs from the entrance to the Canaan Valley lodge.  This trail takes off from the Balsam Swamp Overlook.

Fox Hollow Loop

Fox Hollow Loop is a short, interpretive hike near the Dickey Ridge Visitor Center that gives you glimpses of life on the mountain.

Lemuel F. Fox Headstone
This hike takes you past an old cemetery. Generations of Foxes are buried in this hollow. Below: The trail starts near the Dickey Ridge Visitor Center; The trailhead has a sign marking different hike options in the area.

Dickey Ridge Visitor Center Trailhead for Fox Hollow

Adam Says…

After we finished our hike to Lands Run Falls, we decided to add another hike – the Fox Hollow Loop.  There is a path, starting near the flagpole, that takes you across Skyline Drive from the Dickey Ridge Visitor Center.  You will see a plaque displaying the hike information and a box where you can purchase a $1 guide to to the hike.  The guide is useful in helping you locate some of the interesting sights along the way.  I would recommend picking this up since it does give a little history of the area and insight into the flora around you on the trail.

From the sign, head to the left.  You will quickly come up to a concrete post where the trail intersects with the blue-blazed Dickey Ridge Trail.  Take a left at the post to join the Dickey Ridge Trail.  At the next concrete post at .3 miles, you will take a right to join the no-blazed Fox Hollow Trail.  The trail descends at this point as you go through the Fox homesite.  You will shortly come across a few rockpiles, created by the Fox family to clear the cornfield.  At .5 miles, you will reach the Fox family cemetery on the left of the trail.  After leaving the cemetery, continue on the trail.  Keep your eyes peeled for a millstone that is hidden in the brush on the side of the trail.   It takes a sharp turn to the right and begins a climb up on a path that used to serve as a road used by the Fox family to get to Front Royal.  At the one mile marker, you will reach another concrete post that intersects with the Dickey Ridge Trail.  Continue straight past the post to reach the Visitor Center at 1.2 miles.

Fox Hollow trail marker
The Fox Hollow Trail is well marked by cement posts. Below: The old box spring used to be the water supply for Dickey Ridge.

Old boxed spring on the Fox Hollow Trail

This hike will attract many visitors as it is one of the first opportunities to hike if approaching from the Front Royal entrance to Shenandoah National Park.  The short distance and mild elevation gain will also attract a lot of people.  It is interesting to think of what life would be like for the Fox family.  Thomas and Martha Fox started farming here in 1856 and the family stayed here until the 1930s.  Most of the trees have been formed since the 1930s, so it is interesting to think of this area as plowed pastures for corn, wheat and bluegrass.

Christine Says…

The Fox Hollow Loop was the second hike we completed on our beautiful fall morning in the park.  The hike started off with a nice view looking toward the valley to the east.  The open meadow was blanketed with dry grasses and ragweed, so it looked golden under the fall sun.

The trail quickly descended into the woods.  The path was lined with dogwoods covered with their bright red seed berries.  Along the trail, we saw piles of stones and old walls sinking back into the forest floor.

Old stone wall in Fox Hollow
There are many old stone walls in Fox Hollow.

Pile of Rocks Headstone in Fox Hollow

We soon passed an old cemetery, where generations of the Fox family have been buried.  Most of the headstones have toppled or have disappeared, but two markers (Lemuel Fox and Gertrue Fox) are still in good shape.  It’s compelling to imagine how different this hollow must have looked in 1900.  Back then, this would have been open farmland – fields, cherry trees, barns, houses, stone walls and a road meandering over to the neighboring hollow.  It must have been a lovely, idyllic place to live.

After leaving the cemetery, we continued downhill and found an old boxed spring.  Apparently, when the park was new, this spring supplied water to the Dickey Ridge lodge.  We passed over a small marshy area and saw more stone walls in an opening off the trail.  There was supposed to a mill stone along the trail, but we never saw it.  We also didn’t see the old barbed wire fencing that was supposedly along the trail.  We weren’t the only hikers to miss spotting the artifacts.  We ran into a group of four women standing in the middle of the trail.  They asked if we had seen either the stone or fence.  I think they were contemplating going back, but we pressed on.

The rest of the trail was a nice walk through the woods and we soon came back to where we had started.

Trail Notes

  • Distance – 1.2 miles
  • Elevation Change – 310 feet
  • Difficulty – 1. The trail should be quite easy for most people.  
  • Trail Conditions –4. The trail is well-maintained and easy to walk on.  It could be muddy in parts after lots of rain.
  • Views1.5. You do get some nice views from the plaque of mountains in the distance, but you won’t see much on the trail.
  • Waterfalls/streams – 0. Non-existent.
  • Wildlife – 2. This is a busy trail, so many animals will stay away, but you may see deer around the area.  The fields near the plaque would be good for bird watching.
  • Ease to Navigate – 3.5. The trail only has a couple of turns near cement posts.  If you read the directions on the posts, you shouldn’t have any problem.
  • Solitude – 2. This is a popular trail for people of all abilities, so you will likely see others on the trail.

Directions to trailhead: Follow Skyline Drive to the Dickey Ridge Visitors Center (around mile marker 4.6)  Park at the visitors center.  The trail begins on the east side of the drive, across from the center.

Lands Run Falls

The hike to Lands Run Falls is a fairly easy 1.6 mile walk down an old park road.  The waterfall is not terribly large or impressive, but it’s definitely worth a look if you’re in the mood for a short leg-stretcher.

Adam sits alongside Lands Run Falls.
Adam sits alongside Lands Run Falls.  The falls were still a little on the low side despite five inches of recent rain.

Christine Says…

We planned to do a long hike on Saturday, but Adam was having knee trouble.  Instead, we waited until Sunday and decided to try doing a few short, gentle hikes in the north district of Shenandoah National Park.   It’s been several years since I ventured as far north in the park as Lands Run Falls, so it was a nice change of pace.

The walk to the waterfall stays on a wide gravel road the entire time, so the footing is easy and there is absolutely no place you can possibly take a wrong turn.  The only place you might go wrong is by hiking across the top of the waterfall and missing it completely.  The falls aren’t marked and they’re really not visible from the trail.  You’ll know you’ve reached the falls when you pass over a small stream and culvert. You can also follow the sounds of  falling water!

To get a good look at the falls, you’ll need to follow a worn path through the woods down into the ravine.  It’s a fairly well-worn path, and the rocks in the ravine sort of form big steps.  Be careful on the rocks immediately around the waterfall.  They’re very slick and covered with moss and algae.

Lands Run in Winter
The last time I visited Lands Run Falls it was winter and there had been quite a bit more rain.

If you hit Lands Run Falls when there has been lots of rain, you’ll be treated to a pretty waterfall with three small, but distinct drops.  The first drop of about 20 feet is the most accessible and the most photogenic.  The other two drops are mostly obscured by blow-downs and underbrush.  If the weather has been dry, Lands Run Falls probably is not worth your time.  It frequently dries up completely in the summer.

In Henry Heatwole’s well-known Guide to Shenandoah National Park and Skyline Drive,  he stated “This [Lands Run Falls] is an unrewarding experience for most people… This is for the very few hikers who are willing to go to a lot of trouble to find solitude beside a pool on a mountain stream.”

I wouldn’t characterize Lands Run Falls quite so grimly.  I mean, it’s not spectacular – but it is definitely worth seeing if the water flow has been nice.

Adam Says…

We started off with this as our first of three short hikes for the day.  I was battling some knee issues and Christine thought we should turn around because I was limping the first few steps.  I felt I could make it though and luckily my knee felt better on the trip back up from the falls.

You descend 310 feet during this walk down the fire road.  While it doesn’t seem quite as noticeable on the way down, you will feel the elevation change on the way back up.  Most people should be able to do this hike, but you may need to take your time if the steepness gets to you.

Once you reach the area of the falls, to get the views that we did, you do need to climb down a steep section off the trail that can be slippery.  I was able to do it on a bad knee, but you do have to watch your feet carefully.  The fire road continues further for another 1.4 miles past the falls, but that only leads to a park boundary and there is nothing of interest to see.

The day was quite brisk with temperatures in the upper 40s.  I initially wished that I had brought a fleece along, but once the blood got pumping I was fine in my T-shirt and shorts.  The leaves were just starting to turn color – I think we’re still two weeks before peak season on Skyline Drive and higher elevations.

Lands Run Fire Road
The Lands Run Fire Road descends about 300 vertical feet over .6 of a mile to the falls.

The trail was a nice quick view to a waterfall.  I believe it is a somewhat popular trail, but that is largely due to the number of people that are driving down from Northern Virginia and are looking for a close waterfall hike.  The falls themselves are pretty but they are not as impressive as many others in the park.

Trail Notes

  • Distance – 1.6 miles out and back
  • Elevation Change – Around 300 feet
  • Difficulty – 2. Relatively easy, but definitely uphill on the return trip
  • Trail Conditions – 4.5 The trail is a well-maintained fire road
  • Views0.  The trail stays in the woods and does not offer any panoramic views
  • Waterfalls/streams – 3. Lands Run Falls is small but pretty.  It does dry up when there hasn’t been much rain
  • Wildlife – 2. You’ll likely see the usual park specimens along this trail – birds, squirrels and deer
  • Ease to Navigate – 4. The fire road doesn’t have any turns.  Be careful not to miss the falls – you walk over a small stream and the waterfall cascades below the trail.
  • Solitude – 3.  We saw a couple groups, but for a beautiful fall day, the traffic was light.

Directions to trailhead: Follow Skyline Drive to mile marker 9.2.  Park in the lot on the west side of the drive.  The hike starts at the south end of the lot.

Falls of Hills Creek (WV)

The Falls of Hills Creek is a popular trail that (should) give you views of three plunging waterfalls in a short distance.  The trail is in need of some serious maintenance, as the lower – and most impressive – falls are completely inaccessible due to a collapsed boardwalk (as of fall 2010).

Bridge Over Hills Creek
While the waterfalls were practically non-existent due to very little rain for the past few months, the trail was still pretty. Below: We climbed many stairs and saw very little waterfall action; the Middle Falls were practically dry – the Upper Falls were completely dry and we didn’t even bother with photos; The path was scattered with fall leaves.

Many Stairs Middle Falls Path

Adam Says…

In planning our trip down to West Virginia, we had seen great pictures of the Falls of Hills Creek and thought it would be worth checking out.

The trail starts from the parking lot on a paved path and begins to descend.  The trail winds around while it descends.  At .3 miles, you come to your first overlook of the 25 foot Upper Falls.  You can’t really get great looks of the falls from the overlook, but we could tell there was not a lot of water flowing.  After this overlook, the trail continues on crushed gravel.  At .5 miles, you will come to an overlook that gives you nice views of the 45 foot Middle Falls from above.

Metal Steps
Many metal stairs lead to the lower viewing point for the middle falls. Below: Benches are available along the way if you need a rest; We saw a newt on the damp pathway; BUMMER!  The trail is closed off before we even get a view of the waterfall.

Bench Newt Bummer!

After you leave the platform, you will descend a metal stairwell that goes down several flights.  At the bottom of the stairwell, the trail continues on a boardwalk.  To the right is a short boardwalk path that gives you nice views of the Middle Falls from the bottom of the falls.  Go back up the boardwalk and take the path straight ahead that leads to the view to the Lower Falls.  Unfortunately, there has been some damage from last year’s winter storm on this last section of the trail, so the boardwalk was closed.  Even though the Lower Falls are supposed to be the most impressive with a 63 feet drop, we weren’t able to get to a place to see them.  Return the way that you came to complete the 1.8 mile out-and-back.  The way back includes a lot of stair climbing, so you will get a workout.

There are two geocaches located here:

The dry summer for the last month really hurt our ability to see these falls at the most impressive.  I’m guessing that the work on the Lower Falls will not be completed until the spring/summer of 2011 (at the earliest), so I would wait until this is done to visit this series.  The Lower Falls are considered the second highest cataract falls in West Virginia.

Christine Says…

I’m a little ambivalent about including this hike on our blog because I don’t feel like we saw what the hike really has to offer. It’s hard to be enthusiastic and share information about a waterfall hike when the waterfalls are mostly dry, and one is not even accessible.  But, the Falls of Hills Creek seem to be perennially popular, even in its diminished state.

We did this hike the afternoon we arrived in Pocohontas County.  It was a cloudy, dreary, drizzly day.  I figured if there were any water left in the falls, this weather would be ideal for taking long exposure shots of the water.  Even though the photos didn’t work out, the trail was still quite pretty.  I enjoyed the cool, damp day and walking though the lush green of the woods.  We got some good exercise in climbing the many stairs along the trail.

Signs of Fall
Signs of fall were all along the trail. Below:  Tiny wildflowers along the trail; The foreboding sign that made us carry 40 pounds of camera gear.

Wildflowers Threatening Sign

The one thing I found mildly disconcerting were the “thief alert” signs we found along the trail.  When we walked down, I had all my camera gear and laptop in the car (unusual for me!)  After I saw the sign, I took the route of paranoia and decided to carry everything with us.  Adam carried the big backpack with the laptop and I carried the cameras and the tripod.  It was kind of a shame, because we hardly used any of the gear we carried.

I would love to see the Falls of Hills Creek again sometime when the water is flowing and the lower falls are open.  Until then, I’ll reserve final judgment on this hike.

Trail Notes

  • Distance – 1.8 miles out and back
  • Elevation Change – 600 feet
  • Difficulty 2.  Just due to the stair-master quality of the hike, it’s not for everyone.
  • Trail Conditions 4.5. The trail is paved, then crushed gravel, and some boardwalk areas.
  • Views –0. Not really any views other than waterfalls.
  • Waterfalls/streams 3.5 There wasn’t any water in the falls, but normally this would be great for waterfalls.
  • Wildlife 0.  The trail is too populous to really attract wildlife.
  • Ease to Navigate 5.  Just straight down a paved path and back.
  • Solitude 1.  You should see people along this trail.

Directions to trailhead: From Mill Point, WV head west of WV 39/55.  After about 12 miles, you will find a sign for the Falls of Hills Creek scenic area on your left that leads to a parking lot.  The trail takes off from the left side of the parking lot.

Massanutten Story Book Trail

The view from the Massanutten Story Book Trail involves a short quarter-mile walk down a paved pathway.

Story Book View
The view from the Story Book trail overlooks 211 and the Page Valley. Below: The trailhead is marked by a large sign; Along the path, there is a series of interpretive signs that describe the geology and flora of the area.

Story Book Trailhead Interpretive Sign

Christine Says…

The Massanutten Story Book Trail is one of those ridiculously short path-walks that we personally wouldn’t consider a hike.  Nonetheless, it goes to one of the nicer viewpoints in the Shenandoah Valley. Sure… you can see the Battle Creek Landfill and a distant Walmart, but you can also see the mountains that make up Shenandoah National Park and pretty much all of the Page Valley.  It’s a beautiful spot.

To get to the view, just stroll down the level pathway for a quarter mile.  At the end of the paved trail, you’ll come to an observation platform.  It’s railed in and has several benches to rest upon.  But, for an even better view, don’t miss following a rocky footpath to the right of the platform.  It leads to a rock shelf overlooking the valley.  The rocks that make up the ledge have the most fascinating texture.

Curvy Walkway
One of the beautiful curved, wooden walkways.  Below:  At the end of the paved pathway, there is a platform from which to take in the view; Christine’s Mom and Dad take in the view (You can see our shadows, too!).

Observation Platform Taking in the View

It looks like a lot of work/money has gone into cleaning up the Story Book Trail recently.  The interpretive signs that had faded or been covered with graffiti have been replaced (although new graffiti is already showing up – seriously people, stop crapping up the outdoors… it’s disrespectful and stupid).  The path looked like it had been repaved not too long ago.  But, best of all, someone cleaned all the paint off the rock ledges that lie off the trail.

Adam Says…

Christine’s parents came down on a Sunday to meet up with us.  We decided to take them on a couple of short hikes with great views.  The first we did was Woodstock Tower and we finished it off with the Massanutten Story Book Trail.  This trail is one of the easiest you will find, since the path is paved most of the way, with some beautiful wooden walkways in a few parts.  Since it is also wheelchair accessible, just about anyone should be able to enjoy the views you will find here.

Adam on the Ledge
Adam enjoys the view from the ledge.  Below:  The path is paved; Some sections are traversed by beautiful curved bridges.

Paved Pathway Curved Pathways

The trail also works as an interpretive trail, with many plaques to read along the way that give a great description of the geologic forces that have created the mountains in this area.  There are two geocaches along this trail and one of these requires answers from the signs along the way.

Christine and I often say that some of the areas of George Washington National Forest lead to better views than you get through hikes in Shenandoah National Park and this trail is great evidence of this statement.  If you haven’t done this one before and enjoy great views with little effort, this is a trail for you.

Trail Notes

  • Distance – .5 miles out and back
  • Elevation Change – negligible
  • Difficulty 1.  This trail is for everyone – paved for strollers and handicap accessible.
  • Trail Conditions 5. The official trail is paved.  You can leave the trail and scramble on the rocks for another view.
  • Views –5. Amazing views!
  • Waterfalls/streams 0. No streams/waterfalls.
  • Wildlife 0.  The trail is too populous to really attract wildlife.
  • Ease to Navigate 5.  Just straight down a paved path and back.
  • Solitude 0.  You’ll see many people along this trail.

Directions to trailhead:
Reach the trailhead by turning on to Crisman Hollow Road (FD 274) off of 211 near Luray. Continue on this road for about a mile and park in a small lot off to the right.  A wooden footbridge and trail marker will signify the start of the trail.