Month: May 2009

Mill Prong – Rapidan Camp Trail

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The hike to the Rapidan Camp (also known as Camp Hoover) is probably one of our very favorite walks in all of Shenandoah National Park.  We had such a great time there today.  It was one of those really perfect mornings along the trail.

The Brown House (as opposed to the White House) is where President Hoover stayed.
The Brown House (as opposed to the White House) is where President Hoover stayed when he wanted to escape the heat, stress and formality of Washington, D.C.  Below are photos of (left to right): The main entry to Brown House has steps that lead down to the Rapidan River; the house has a large patio overlooking the river – it was a popular place to relax in Hoover’s day; the Mill Prong was running beautifully today.

Brown House historical Mill Prong

Adam Says…

This is probably my favorite hike in Shenandoah National Park.  The reason I would say this is due to the combination of the history and scenery.

The hike isn’t too difficult, but there are three sets of rock-hopping that you’ll need to do over the Mill Prong.  Due to the recent storms, we actually had to wade across the the third stream crossing since the rocks were mostly submerged and we didn’t want to risk dropping Christine’s camera gear into the water.

The Rapidan Camp was built for Herbert Hoover during his term of office to serve as the first Presidential retreat.  Hoover was an avid outdoorsman and fisherman.  Shenandoah National Park was being built around the same time.  In order to hopefully get the park approved, they encouraged Hoover to build his retreat here.  Marines were brought in to build the camp, which included the construction of thirteen buildings and electrical/phone lines.  Interestingly enough, they heavily stocked the Rapidan River with lots of trout before Hoover arrived, so he would have lots of successful fishing trips.  When Hoover left office he donated his camp (which he paid for out of personal funds) to the government.  Hoover’s initial plan was to have the Camp serve as the permanent presidential retreat.  Due to Franklin D. Roosevelt’s wheelchair-confinement and his strong dislike of Hoover, he decided to establish a new retreat in the Catoctin Mountains of Maryland which he called Shangri-La (it was renamed by Eisenhower as Camp David).  It is interesting to think about what it would be like if the presidential retreat stayed at Camp Rapidan and how that could have impacted the park.

There does seem to be some good trout-fishing in the areas nearby, but it is all catch-and-release.  Of course, it’s not stocked like it was for Hoover.

If you aren’t able to see inside the Brown Cabin (see Christine’s info below), you can still walk around the grounds and read about the history of the area.  I would highly recommend bringing a lunch or snack. The back porch is a great place to eat and reflect on the history of this time.

Big Rock Falls is located along the trail right before you cross the river.
Big Rock Falls is located along the trail right before you cross the river. Below are photos of (left to right): the trail is lined with lush ferns; Adam wades across the stream; a pretty spot along the Mill Prong.

Ferns Deep Water mill prong_2

Christine Says…

We’ve hiked to the Rapidan Camp many times, but today was my favorite trip down the trail ever.  It was just one of those magical mornings where everything felt especially beautiful and perfect.

We got an early start, so the only people we came across on the way down were Boy Scouts hiking back out after a weekend of camping.  As we passed them, I had to wonder how they fared last night.  We had some fierce thunderstorms that rolled through around 3:00 a.m.  I was thrilled to see how flush with water the Mill Prong and the Rapidan River were.  Even the small waterfall, Big Rock Falls, looked impressive this morning.  When a crucial rock hop proved unavailable due to the high water, I enjoyed wading barefoot across the stream.  I thought the water would be cold, but it was actually pleasant and refreshing.

Probably the best part of the hike was our tour of the Rapidan Camp.  The volunteer ranger was just opening up when we arrived and gave us a private look at the President Hoover’s cabin, also known as “The Brown House”.  Although the cabin looks rustic on the outside, the inside is quite refined and cozy.  The floor is beautifully smooth wood, there are two bathrooms, two bedrooms, two huge stone fireplaces, hand woven rugs and a lovely study/office that overlooks the headwaters of the Rapidan River.  Until 1996, the Brown House was available to high-ranking politicians and V.I.P.s.  Al Gore was actually the last person to “rent” the Rapidan Camp for personal use. (Sandra Day O’Connor and Jimmy Carter have also been guests of the Rapidan Camp.)

The cabin is open for tours most days, May through October.  Volunteers have Tuesday and Wednesday off, so if you want to see inside, hike it on another day.  Each volunteer ranger actually gets to live at the camp for their three-week tour of duty.  The volunteer stays in the nearby Creel Cabin, which is one of the only three original buildings left standing.  The volunteers maintain the property and give tours to visitors.  The camp is also accessible on a ranger-guided program.  So, even folks who can’t (or don’t want to) walk can still see the site.

There is a fantastic exhibit set up in the “Prime Minister’s Cabin”.  It has many old photos and detailed information about the engineering feats required to build the camp.  Be sure to look at the large version of the letter pictured below.  It shows a lot of the planning that went into picking the site.

President and Mrs. Hoover
President and Mrs. Hoover enjoy the deck of the Brown House. Below are photos of (left to right): a letter from William Carson explaining preparatory steps to get the camp ready for Hoover; horses crossing the river; another historical photo of the Hoovers.

letter horse crossing historical_2

Trail Notes

  • Distance – 4 miles
  • Elevation Change – 750 feet
  • Difficulty – 2. The elevation change is gradual which makes it a fairly easy hike.
  • Trail Conditions – 4. The trail is in great condition, with few rocks or roots sticking up.  The rock-hopping could be a little challenge to anyone not stable on their feet.
  • Views – 1. Only views of the streams and the camp area.
  • Waterfalls/streams – 4. If it’s good enough for a former President, it should be good enough for you. 🙂
  • Wildlife – 1. Probably not as likely to see bigger animals due to popularity of the trail.  
  • Ease to Navigate – 4. Only a few turns to get to the camp.
  • Solitude – 2. You will likely see others here, but you should be able to find your own spot to enjoy the scenery and history.

Directions to trailhead: The hike starts at mile marker 53 on Skyline Drive.  Park in the Milam Gap lot, then cross the drive.  The trail picks up on the other side of the crosswalk.  You’ll quickly come up to a park post and take a left to start the trail.

Camp 70 Road – West Virginia

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Update: As of January 2018, camping is no longer allowed along the Camp 70 Road in Little Canaan Wildlife Management Area.  More information.  

The Camp 70 Road is a fantastic short bike ride along the Blackwater River.

The Camp 70 Road on a day with prettier weather.
The Camp 70 Road on a day with prettier weather.

Adam Says…

This is a great ride on a multi-purpose road.  We had heard about this road being a good biking road from a local bike shop employee.  You are likely to see some people hiking or biking on this road.  Despite a lot of potholes, the road does run very smoothly if you keep your eyes open.  The road goes along the Blackwater River and eventually ends right at the river.  If you go to the very end, you will see a small blue-blazed trail.  Continue this along the river for about .1 mile and you will come up to a swinging bridge.  This bridge does look a little sketchy, but I convinced myself that the water wasn’t that deep if it all fell apart.  I thought at one point there was one nail holding the entire thing together.  There are a couple of geocaches along this trail While I was reviewing the geocache log for Blackwater Swinging Bridge Cache, I discovered some friends I met through geocaching found it the day before.

Here is a list of the geocaches on the trail:

The Swinging Bridge is a short walk after the road ends
The Swinging Bridge is a short walk after the road ends

Christine Says…

So, we didn’t have great weather… this is still such a pretty, short bike ride – definitely a must-do when visiting the Canaan Valley area.   There are so many gorgeous views of the Blackwater River along the way.  The road is lined with popular fishing spots.  There is even a deck built at one point to allow wheelchair access to fishing. The road surface has many potholes, but it’s easily handled by any mountain or hybrid bike.  The ride out might be ever-so-slightly uphill, because the ride back is super-fast and makes for a fun race.  🙂

The Camp 70 Road follows the Blackwater River
The Camp 70 Road follows the Blackwater River

Trail Notes

  • Distance – About 7 miles
  • Elevation Change – insignificant
  • Difficulty – 1.5
  • Trail Conditions – 3.5 Despite some potholes and larger gravel, this one is in good shape.
  • Views – 1. No views unless you count the river views
  • Waterfalls/streams -3.5. Nice views of the Blackwater River
  • Wildlife – 1.5. Mostly just deer in the area
  • Ease to Navigate – 4. The road is easy to navigate, but I dropped it down a point in case you were trying to find the swinging bridge.  The trail is not the best marked out there, but just follow the river.
  • Solitude – 1. This road is extremely popular with bikers, campers, and fishers.

Directions to trailhead: The road starts behind the Shop and Save in Davis, WV.  There is plenty of parking right along the road.

Canyon Rim Trail – West Virginia

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Our guide book described this moderate five-mile hike as having exceptional scenery and a couple stream crossings.

The rhododendron along this trail are jungle-thick
The rhododendron thickets along this trail are jungle-dense

Christine Says…

The trail description in our hiking guide, Day & Overnight Hikes in West Virginia’s Monongahela, made this hike sound like a must-do with lots of solitude and great views of the Blackwater Canyon.  It did warn that the overlooks were on hard-to-find spur trails, but we didn’t give that a second thought.  We tend to have a good sense of direction and aren’t afraid to do a little bushwhacking.

The trail was about what I expected… a narrow path winding its way through dense thickets of rhododendron.  The growth was so thick that the forest felt stifling.  The air was damp, heavy and still.  The footing for the first mile was often muddy and wet as the trail descended.  There were many pink lady slippers growing along the trail.  Other than one short initial descent, the trail was easy and mostly level.

Pink Lady Slipper
Pink Lady Slipper

The part of this hike that was unexpected were the lackluster views.  The fist overlook was pretty easy to find.  It cut a short distance through the rhododendron to a big pile of boulders.  The vegetation was so thick at this viewpoint, that you really couldn’t see down into the canyon very well.  Unfortunately, we never found the second viewpoint despite looking carefully on a couple passes.  We’re guessing that the spur path was completely overtaken by new growth.  I really think the views of the canyon from Lindy Point in Blackwater Falls State Park are as nice as anything in the area.

After failing to find the second overlook, we trekked back to the car feeling a little let down by the hike.  Maybe if we had found the second overlook,  I would have felt more than “meh” about the hike.

Adam Says…

I agree with Christine in that I was underwhelmed.  We could see the canyon along the way, but never found a good way to get to it.  Christine did find one overlook, but she didn’t feel that it was photo-worthy.

We did see more lady slippers on this trail than on any trail we have ever found anywhere.  If you’re into those, this is a good trail to check out.

We made our way to Big Run.  We were also trying to find the Canyon Rim Waterfall that was listed in a book, but we didn’t find it or a way to get down the water to view possible places for falls.

Trail Notes

  • Distance – 5 miles
  • Elevation Change – 600 feet
  • Difficulty – 2.  Other than a few short, steep climbs, the trail is mostly level.
  • Trail Conditions – 2.   The trail can be very muddy and wet and is often overgrown by the dense thickets of rhododendron.  There are several small streams to cross.  In low water times, these may be dry.
  • Views – 1.  On the day we hiked, we saw one unremarkable view of the Blackwater Canyon.  The path to the second viewpoint was completely obscured by new growth and we were unable to find it.
  • Waterfalls/streams -2.  A few small, pretty streams.
  • Wildlife – 2.  We saw evidence of recent bear activity, but no actual bears.
  • Ease to Navigate – 2.   The main trail is easy to follow and is blazed yellow.  The spur trails to the viewpoints were extremely difficult to find.
  • Solitude – 4.  We didn’t see anyone on the hike at all.  There was a family camping along the Forest Road near the terminus of the trail and we saw/heard them.

Directions to trailhead:

From WV Rt. 219, turn onto Forest Service Road 18. After .4 of a mile this will turn into Forest Service Road 717. Follow 717 for about 1.5 miles. You will see a sign for the Canyon Rim trail on the right and a pull-off for parking on the left. The Forest Service Roads are gravel and are quite rough.

Allegheny Highlands Trail – West Virginia

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As one visitor commented, West Virginia was once part of Virginia, so today we’re stepping outside our home state to share one of West Virginia’s premier bike paths.

Along the Allegheny Highland Trail
Along the Allegheny Highlands Trail

Adam Says…

We decided to try our hand (or feet) at the Allegheny Highlands Trail.  This is a converted rails-to-trails bike path through the West Virginia highlands.  This trail connects Elkins to Hendricks,  mostly following Route 219.  There are plans to extend the trail up to Thomas and beyond.  Currently, there are about 25 miles of established trails.  Parts of the trail are paved and parts are ground gravel, so conditions are nice for hybrid or mountain bikes.

If you are interested in doing the entire trail, I would suggest arranging a shuttle, dropping off a car at Parsons and then taking off from Elkins.  This way seems to be a little easier than the opposite way due to the grade.

On our first visit to this trail, we did two segments of this trail – Parsons to Porterwood and Bretz to Hendricks.   These were both two short and easy segments.  This time, we decided to do the Montrose to Porterwood section which ended up being a little over 15 miles roundtrip.   We started off in Montrose.  The way to Portwerwood ended up being more downhill than uphill, which made to return trip about five miles on a gradual uphill.  If you feel like getting the harder work done first, I would take off from Porterwood first.  Since this is a rails-to-trails, the grade is not steep and any average cyclist will find the climb to be quite easy, but the uphill is definitely constant heading south.

The scenery along the trail is not amazing, but you do pass through some nice stretches through the woods.  As you are getting closer to some of the towns, expect to see some houses near the trail.  We actually found the Bretz to Hendricks area the prettiest of the areas.

If you are into geocaching, there are a ton of caches to find along the trail.  The caches are not that tough to find, so it is a great idea if you are doing a family ride.  Sadly, my GPS unit made its final find along the Allegheny Highlands Trail  While I was loading the bikes onto the car, I put the GPS unit on the roof and promptly drove off with it still there.  We never found it.  It’s probably busted into a million pieces along Rte. 219.

Biking Along
Biking Along

Christine Says…

This bike ride would have been so much fun if I hadn’t developed a migraine about an hour into the ride.  Literally, I felt like someone was stabbing me in the head with an ice pick.  Adam kept telling me to stop biking, rest on the roadside, and let him bring the car to get me.  But, I am stubborn – so I cried (yes, really) and pedaled my bike for about eight more miles.  We managed to find some ibuprofen in our first aid kit, and that took a little of the edge off the migraine.  I felt quite a bit better by the last couple miles, but for a lot of the ride I was simply miserable.

That said,  I really recommend this bike trail for riders of any level.  The climbs and descents are gentle and the trail conditions are very smooth and pleasant.  There are several large stands of rhododendron along the path and the forest floor is covered with ferns.   I’m always amazed by how few people use the trail.  This weekend, the weather was gorgeous – 75, breezy and sunny.  It was also a long, holiday weekend – but we still only passed a handful of other bikers.  People don’t know what they’re missing!

Trail Notes

  • Distance – 25 miles worth of trails
  • Elevation Change – Some gentle and gradual changes in elevation.
  • Difficulty – 2.  Depends on which way you go and how far you want to ride.
  • Trail Conditions – 3.5.   The trail is paved in some sections, but the gravel sections consist of ground gravel which makes for nice riding.
  • Views – 1.5.  Mostly views through wooded sections.  Occasional views of a few forks of the Cheat River.
  • Waterfalls/streams -1.  A few views of water, but not great looks.
  • Wildlife – 0.  Not much since it is so close to the road.
  • Ease to Navigate – 4.   Easy to navigate, but there are a few passes that cross trafficked roads.
  • Solitude – 4.  This is a slightly popular trail, so expect more people on weekends, especially around holidays.  You still shouldn’t see that many people.

Directions to trailhead:

There are several places to park, depending on where you want to start your trail.  The bike trail runs beside state road 219 that connects Elkins to Thomas.  Brown signs let you know of parking lots along the way.

Visiting West Virginia

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While we want to focus on Virginia trails on our site, we can’t resist occasionally sharing some of the hikes that West Virginia has to offer.  Many of West Virginia’s most beautiful hiking spots are just a couple hours drive away for many Virginians.  We’re really excited about having a full week to explore the Canaan Valley/Blackwater Falls area next week.  We have lots of hikes and bike rides planned (as long as the area’s notoriously mercurial weather behaves for us.)  We’ll probably make side trips to the Seneca Rocks, Dolly Sods and Deep Creek Lake areas while we’re there as well.

The entire area is rugged and pristine, with many waterfalls, high meadows, bogs, rushing streams and mountain views.  It’s a paradise for both outdoor activities and photography.

The area is beautiful and (mostly) untouched.
The area is beautiful and (mostly) untouched.

When visiting the area, Canaan Valley makes a great base for all your excursions.  There are cabins for rent, lodges at the state parks, a couple motels and loads of camping options.  Our family has had a unit at Black Bear Resort for over 20 years now, so we stay there for free.  We’ve also camped and stayed in the cabins at Canaan Valley Resort.

When you visit, don’t miss Sirianni’s Pizza (no website), Mountain State Brewing Company and breakfast at the Bright Morning Inn (mmm… banana walnut pancakes).

Bearfence Mountain

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Bearfence Mountain is a short, but deceptively challenging hike in the central district of Shenandoah National Park.  Although it  measures just 1.2 miles, it’s not for the faint of heart when it comes to heights.

The beginning of the Bearfence Trail
The beginning of the Bearfence Trail

Adam Says…

We decided to do this one on short notice, because it’s so close to our house and we didn’t have a lot of free time today.  It is one of the southernmost hikes in the central district of the Shenandoah National Park.  While it is only 1.2 miles, the short length can be misleading.  The footing is tricky through the rock scramble and it is not a good idea to attempt for a lot of people.  If you have weak knees, aren’t flexible, have unsure balance or a fear of heights, this is not a hike for you.  Bearfence can also serve as good practice if you are planning on attempting Old Rag.  The rock scramble does take some planning to determine how you will traverse each obstacle.  The hike takes most people well under an hour, so it’s a great hike to combine with other short hikes in SNP (especially if you’re trying to add to your summit total.)

The rock scramble begins right after you round this rock outcropping
The rock scramble begins right after you round this rock outcropping

There is an earthcache geocache hidden here titled On Top of Bearfence Mountain.  While physical geocaches are not allowed in the park, earthcaches typically teach something about geology.  You will normally have to find some information or spot something regarding the geology and answer a few questions to be allowed to give yourself credit.

The scramble.
The scramble.

Christine Says…

Bearfence Mountain is usually a hike that offers great views of the western valley (photo from winter 2007) and Skyline Drive.  But today, we were socked in by unusual mid-day fog.  It was so odd – at our house (which may be ten miles away as the crow flies) it was mostly clear blue skies with the occasional puffy cloud.  But on Bearfence, it was like pea soup.

The trail was really crowded today, mostly by two vanloads of folks from Eastern Mennonite University.  They were inexperienced hikers, and moved at a snail’s pace across the rock scramble.  Luckily, they let us pass them along the way.  Several in the party were really struggling, and were obviously uncomfortable with the terrain.  They were hiking with two trained trailguides, so I was a little surprised to see the group on Bearfence.  Of all the hikes in the park, I see more people turn back on Bearfence than any other trail.  I think the short length misleads people into hiking something they’re not capable of or comfortable with.  Don’t get me wrong… most average hikers will find the rock scramble to be quite fun.  Personally, scrambles are my favorite type of terrain to hike.  I’d rather do a scramble than a sheer uphill any day!

view blog
What a view, eh?

The scramble on Bearfence starts after about the first quarter mile of the hike.  It’s really the only challenging portion of the trail.  After the scramble, you’ll walk along the ridge for a short while.  Eventually, you’ll meet back up with the Appalachian Trail and make an easy walk back to where you started.

While we hiked it in the spring this time, Bearfence is especially spectacular during the peak of autumn color.

Trail Notes

  • Distance – 1.2 miles loop trail
  • Elevation Change – 380 feet
  • Difficulty – 2.5. This is short and not strenuous, but if you’re not in good shape , you’ll find it more challenging.
  • Trail Conditions – 2. While the rest of the trail is in good shape, the rock scramble definitely brings this score down. (however, if you’re like us and love to scramble, this trail rates a 5!)
  • Views – 3.5. (usually)  Today was foggy.
  • Waterfalls/streams – 0. Non-existent
  • Wildlife – 1.5. We saw a deer up here and heard that a bear has been spotted along the AT on this mountain.
  • Ease to Navigate – 3.5. During the rock scramble you’ll need to look for the blue blazes, but it’s not very difficult to follow.
  • Solitude – 1.5. Expect to see people due to the short distance.  Also, plan on being held up by others through the rock scramble if you’re a faster hiker.

Directions to trailhead: The trail is located on Skyline Drive at mile marker 56.4.  Park at the the Bearfence Trail parking lot, cross Skyline Drive and begin the hike up, following the blue blazes.  Once you complete the rock scramble, you can continue up to the summit or turn right on to the Appalachian Trail to make your way back down. (the trail crosses the AT twice, so you can make your hike even shorter than 1.2 miles if you like)

Rose River Loop

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The Rose River Loop is one of Shenandoah National Park’s most beautiful hikes for streams and waterfalls.  Over the course of 3.7 miles, you’ll hike along the Rose River, the Hog Camp Branch, and finally up the Rose River fire road.

A new log is resting on the crest of the falls
Two large fallen trees obscure Rose River falls.

Adam Says…

This hike is one of our most-repeated hikes in Shenandoah National Park.  It has some great views of running water throughout the trail. This isn’t the most secluded trail since it connects to Dark Hollow Falls.  However, you should normally only come across a few other people on this trail.  There are some good places to do some trout-fishing along the river.  The man pictured a few photos down had caught a 8.5 inch trout the day before at the same spot.

The hike starts off at the parking area just north of the Fishers Gap Overlook.  Cross the road and follow the Skyland-Big Meadows Horse Trail for .5 mile.  There is a steady downhill grade, but it’s not too steep. At .5 miles, you’ll reach the junction of the Horse Trail and the Rose River Trail.  Go right and follow the Rose River Trail, continuing downhill.  Once you reach the bottom of the trail in about a mile, you’ll hear the water. The trail continues alongside the stream for a ways.  You will reach Rose River falls at 1.3 miles.  They are impressive, but more beauty awaits along the trail.  For fans of long-exposure photography, this is a paradise.

The trail will pass an old copper mine at 1.8 miles.  Some people like to explore the old mine, but we don’t think there is anything worth seeing there.

For the next mile, the trail closely follows the stream.  It is very rocky and can be icy or muddy depending on the weather.  There are tons of small waterfalls, slides, and plunge pools to explore.

At 2.7 miles, you will reach the footbridge at the bottom of Dark Hollow Falls.  Turn right, cross the  bridge, and follow the Rose River Fire Road uphill.  At 3.3 miles, you will pass the Cave Cemetery on the right.  At 3.7 miles, you will arrive back at Skyline Drive and your vehicle.

You can see from some of Christine’s pictures that there is really a lot of nice water to see on this trail.  I highly recommend doing this if you have a day or two in the park.

Some graves date back to the Civil War.
Some graves (not this one) in the Cave Family Cemetery date back to the Civil War.

As I usually like to comment, there is a geocache located here.  For those that are unaware, physical geocaches are not allowed in National Parks.  However, there is a small cemetery located off of the fire road that is considered private land and not owned by the Park Service.  The cemetery was used by the people who used to live in the mountain hollows before the government took their land for the park in the early 1900’s.  The Cave family gave permission for a geocache to be placed here called Viking Treasure Cave. ETA:  This cache has since been removed from the park (September 2010)

Christine Says…

When we started down the Rose River trail, I couldn’t help but skeptically watch the blue sky peeking between openings in the trees above.  The local weatherman had forecast a cloudy morning, but as we hiked along the sun began sending down rays and making a dappled pattern across the forest floor.  It was lovely to look at, but was definitely not the kind of light I was hoping to have for the stream and waterfall photos I wanted take.  You see, the Rose River Loop is one of the very best hikes in Shenandoah for folks who enjoy photographing running water.  It’s also the place where my brother proposed to his now wife.  They were engaged on a bitter cold New Year’s Eve camping trip somewhere along the Rose River.

The Rose River
The Rose River has many beautiful small, unnamed falls.  I’ve named this one “Slip and Slide Falls” because the bushwhack down to the base is so steep.

Even though the light made photography a challenge today, I found several spots to shoot along the Rose River.  We had to bushwhack off the trail a couple times, and all I could think about were ticks.  I don’t think I’ve recovered from our walk down the Dry Run Falls fire road yet.

One bushwhack in particular was especially steep, slick and muddy.  As luck would have it, it also offered the prettiest of all the little cascades along the walk.   When I looked down the ravine, for some reason my inner girly-girl came out.  I announced to Adam that I wasn’t going down there no matter what.  He said “Yes, you are!” and took my camera away and starting climbing down without me.  I was left with no choice but to follow.  I got really muddy and touched a gross centipede-like creature.  I’ll never like bugs!

We stopped at Rose River Falls for a few shots.  For the past few years, there has been a huge fallen tree lying across the waterfall.  It’s still there, but now there is a new downed tree stuck at the crest of the waterfall.   Both trees are way too big to move, and will likely be there for years to come.

We paused at a couple other places along the Hog Camp Branch for photos, but there was another photographer who was consistently about ten minutes ahead of us on the hike.  Each time we got to a spot I planned on photographing, he was already there.  He looked pretty serious getting his shots.  At one spot, he even donned chest high waders and water shoes so that he could get to the middle of the stream for an ideal composition.   I skipped a lot of my favorite photo spots along the Hog Camp because I always feel a bit rude stepping into somebody’s shooting space.

I had my tripod all set up when the fisherman jumped into my scene
Speaking of stepping into someone’s shooting space… I had my tripod all set up when this fisherman dropped into my scene.  Oh well 🙂

We finished the loop hike on the Rose River fire road.  The last mile on the road is always my least favorite part of the hike.  The fire road is easy walking, but yawn… it’s a bit on the boring side. Despite the dull last leg, the Rose River loop is a must-do hike for anyone visiting Shenandoah.

I'm so lucky that Adam routinely offers to carry all my photography gear.
I’m so lucky that Adam routinely offers to carry all my photography gear.

Trail Notes

  • Distance – 3.7 miles loop trail
    (Check out the stats from Map My Hike)*
  • Elevation Change – Around 900 feet
  • Difficulty – 2. Some downhill and uphill, but it’s not too bad.
  • Trail Conditions – 3.5. There are some areas along the river that are more like a 2, but there are some areas that where it is more like a 5.  Footing is tricky around the climb up after the red bridge.
  • Views – 0. Just waterfall and stream views.
  • Waterfalls/streams – 4.5. Some of the most continuous views of water that allow for some great water photography.
  • Wildlife – 1. Some birds and chipmunks, but not much else here.
  • Ease to Navigate – 5. Trail is well-marked and there aren’t any spurs until you get back to the fire road.
  • Solitude – 3. Not the best on solitude, but you won’t run into a ton of people.

Download a trail map

Directions to trailhead: The trail is located on Skyline Drive.  Park at the Fisher’s Gap Overlook (at mile marker 49.4 miles), cross the road and pick up the trail.  The Rose River Loop starts to the left of the fire road.  You will see a cement marker.

Dry Run Falls

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Adam found this hike mentioned in a book called Waterfalls of Virginia and West Virginia.  Since we’ve had so much rain lately, we decided to take the short three mile hike to see the falls.

Dry Run is pretty after substantial rain
Dry Run is pretty after substantial rain

Christine Says…

We parked our car at the South River Overlook and made our way down the Dry Run Falls Fire Road.   The road was wet and sloppy, but still beautiful because it was lined with countless wildflowers: trillium, wild geranium, violets, hepatica, ragwort and many more I couldn’t identify.

Trillium
Trillium

The road follows a gentle downhill grade and eventually passes Lost Cliffs, an impressive rock face rising straight up from the forest floor.  A little over a mile into the hike, you start to hear the sounds of water gurgling downhill, getting louder and stronger as more run-off joins the flow.

Dry Run falls are visible from the trail, and would actually be quite pretty if there weren’t several large fallen trees obscuring the view.   To get close to the stream, you have to do a little bit of bushwhacking down the ravine.  There are a few places along the stream that are photogenic and worth the effort to climb down.

On the hike, we all found multiple ticks crawling on us.  After all was said and done, I think we ended up picking sixteen ticks off our clothing and skin.   I skipped using bug spray on this hike because our dog was hiking with us, and DEET is so toxic to them.  This was by far the most ticks I’ve ever found on myself after a hike.

We brought the dog along.
We brought the dog along.

All in all, Dry Run was a pleasant walk, but not something I would consider a “must-do” hike.  There isn’t really anything noteworthy to see along the way and the falls weren’t anything special.

Adam Says…

I was a little unimpressed by this hike.  It was something new for us, since we have done most of the Central and South SNP hikes, but it was good to get out to stretch the legs.  The fire road leads to an easy walk through the woods.  We saw a few bear  droppings through the hike, so be careful and make some noise along the trail.  Dry Run can be viewed from the trail, but you need to do some bushwhacking to get to the water for any photo opportunities.  The water was rushing hard today, but we’ve had a couple of weeks of heavy rain.  I’m not sure how heavy this is during a dry season.  The water does have several areas of falls and tumbling water if you continue on the trail.  You can also approach this hike without entering through the main gate by way of Elkton, but we wanted to do the normal hike.

Lost Cliffs
Lost Cliffs – Can you spot Adam in the shot?

A neat side-trip was to climb up Lost Cliffs.  At the end of  the large formation on your right, you will see signs of a short trail that leads you up to the rocks above.  Be careful, since most of the rocks are covered with moss and that first step is a lulu.

wookieWookie Says…

Wookie really enjoyed walking on the fire road.  It was definitely an easy and suitable trail for dogs.  There was lots of mud and standing water on the trail, so he was filthy and needed a bath when he got home.  He also came home with lots ticks crawling on him — one had already attached to his ear.

Trail Notes

  • Distance – 3.2 miles round-trip
  • Elevation Change – insignificant  – maybe a couple hundred feet.
  • Difficulty – 1.  The trail follows a fire road and has very gentle climbs and descents.
  • Trail Conditions – 5.   The trail is well maintained.
  • Views – 0.  No views.
  • Waterfalls/streams – 2.  The falls and stream are pretty, but nothing special.
  • Wildlife – 2.  We heard a turkey and saw several kinds of salamanders.  There were also signs of bear and deer around.
  • Ease to Navigate – 5.   It would be nearly impossible to get lost.
  • Solitude – 4.  Fire roads are used infrequently in the park.  We saw only one other person – a local guy collecting mushrooms.

Directions to trailhead:

Follow Skyline Drive to mile 62.7.  Park at the South River Overlook.  Cross the drive and pick up the trail on the west side of the road.

Where We Get Hiking Ideas

4 Comments

We get hiking ideas from many different places. When we’re visiting Shenandoah National Park, we use our Falcon Guide more than any other publication. We also really like the National Geographic Trails Illustrated Maps. So far, we’ve found them to be very comprehensive and accurate. The Shenandoah National Park map (#228) is a great supplement to the Falcon Guide because it shows how all the park’s trails interconnect. It also clearly marks lots of park features that are under-the-radar, too. We’ve bushwhacked to some interesting places using the map.

Some of Our Favorite Books and Maps
Some of Our Favorite Books and Maps

For hikes in George Washington National Forest, we use mostly use online resources and a couple more of the National Geographic maps. (maps #791 and #792 – which cover Great North Mountain, Massanutten and Shenandoah Mountain)

The web resources we use most frequently are:

There is a lot of information on Trails.com, but their site is a fee service – and we think it’s unnecessary to pay for access to trail information online.

The other way we get ideas for hikes is word of mouth.  We chat with other hikers all the time, and are constantly getting new hike ideas.

McAfee Knob

16 Comments

IMPORTANT: Please read these important regulations and helpful tips before hiking in this area

McAfee Knob is an 8.3 mile hike along the Appalachian Trail near Roanoke.  The summit offers truly magnificent views of the Catawba valley below.  On a clear day, you can also get great views of the Peaks of Otter (Sharp Top and Flat Top) along the Blue Ridge Parkway.

McAfee Knob's View of the Catawba Valley
McAfee Knob’s View of the Catawba Valley

Christine says…

We picked a perfect day in April to hike McAfee Knob.  The trees were still mostly bare of leaves, but the skies were crystal clear and completely free of the milky haze that dominates the Virginia summer.  We got to the trailhead right at 9:00 a.m. and the parking lot on 311 was already about halfway full.  From what I’ve been told, this trail rivals Old Rag in popularity for folks in the southern part of the Shenandoah Valley.

The trail is meticulously maintained.  I believe the Roanoke Appalachian Trail Club and local Boy Scouts do most of the trail work.  There are many wooden bridges and walkways in the first two miles of the trail that were built as Eagle Scout projects. I think the hike, despite its eight+ mile length, qualifies as a solidly moderate hike.  It’s not steep and the trail is smooth and pleasant.  It feels a lot shorter than eight miles.

The first few miles of the hike make their way through beautiful, classic Virginia mountains.  The trees are a mix of hardwoods and pines that smell delicious as they warm in the sun.  There are also expansive stands of mountain laurel along the way.  I’m certain they’re a site to behold when they bloom in June.

The view finally opens up when you complete the toughest part of the climb and walk along the ridge of the mountain.  The gnats were something else on the day we hiked.  If we so much as paused for a few seconds, the bugs swarmed us like mad.  The walk along the ridge is brief and leads you past a very cool series of rock formations nicknamed the Devil’s Kitchen.  After walking past the giant boulders, you come to a short spur trail to McAfee knob.

The hike is an out-and-back, so the return trip simply retraces your steps.

I think this is a hike I’ll return to time and again.  I thought it was one of the most spectacular views I’ve seen in the state.

Adam says…

This was a truly wonderful hike.  The views are spectacular and  are likely the best views I can remember in Virginia. I grew up in Lynchburg, VA and we used to always hike up Sharp Top at the Peaks of Otter on the Blue Ridge Parkway.  I think the views here are better than Sharp Top and well worth the mileage.  You can continue the trek on to Tinker Cliffs, but that adds several miles onto the trek and would work better as an overnight backpack trip.  The views of the ridgeline and Tinker Cliffs are breathtaking.  There is a lot of space at the top to chill out on some rocks and eat a snack.  You will often see pictures like the one below when you see pictures for the Appalachian Trail.

I do a lot of geocaching and there is a geocache here if you approach it from the fire road and not the hike on the AT.  However, I left my notes in the car, so I just tried to go from my memory and GPS.  I tried hiking off the trail and up the mountainside and it took away all my energy.

This View of McAfee is an Appalachian Trail Icon
This View of McAfee Knob is an Appalachian Trail Icon

Trail Notes

  • Distance – 8.3 miles round-trip
  • Elevation Change – 1,740 feet
  • Difficulty – 4.  The trail is fairly easy walking, but because the length, we scored it a 4.
  • Trail Conditions – 5.   The trail is well maintained.
  • Views – 5.  One of the finest views in Virginia.
  • Waterfalls/streams – 0.
  • Wildlife – 2.  We saw a lot of Eastern Fence Lizards, but nothing else.
  • Ease to Navigate – 5.   It would be nearly impossible to get lost.
  • Solitude – 1.  The trail is exceedingly popular.  Parking can be a challenge if you arrive mid-day.

Special regulations for this area:

  • Maximum group size, day hikes: 25
  • Maximum group size, backpacking/camping: 10
  • No alcohol
  • Dogs must be kept on leash at all times
  • No camping or campfires outside of seven designated areas (north of Va 624/Newport Rd, the only legal campsites are Johns Spring Shelter, Catawba Shelter and campsites, Pig Farm campsite, Campbell Shelter and Lambert’s Meadow Shelter and campsites)
  • No camping or campfires on McAfee Knob or Tinker Cliffs

Directions to trailhead:

Take I-81 to exit 141.  Follow signs to VA-311.  The parking lot is located about 5.5 miles down 311.  Park ONLY in the designated lot.  Roadside parking is prohibited and will result in towing.