While we want to focus on Virginia trails on our site, we can’t resist occasionally sharing some of the hikes that West Virginia has to offer. Many of West Virginia’s most beautiful hiking spots are just a couple hours drive away for many Virginians. We’re really excited about having a full week to explore the Canaan Valley/Blackwater Falls area next week. We have lots of hikes and bike rides planned (as long as the area’s notoriously mercurial weather behaves for us.) We’ll probably make side trips to the Seneca Rocks, Dolly Sods and Deep Creek Lake areas while we’re there as well.
The entire area is rugged and pristine, with many waterfalls, high meadows, bogs, rushing streams and mountain views. It’s a paradise for both outdoor activities and photography.
The area is beautiful and (mostly) untouched.
When visiting the area, Canaan Valley makes a great base for all your excursions. There are cabins for rent, lodges at the state parks, a couple motels and loads of camping options. Our family has had a unit at Black Bear Resort for over 20 years now, so we stay there for free. We’ve also camped and stayed in the cabins at Canaan Valley Resort.
Bearfence Mountain is a short, but deceptively challenging hike in the central district of Shenandoah National Park. Although it measures just 1.2 miles, it’s not for the faint of heart when it comes to heights.
The beginning of the Bearfence Trail
Adam Says…
We decided to do this one on short notice, because it’s so close to our house and we didn’t have a lot of free time today. It is one of the southernmost hikes in the central district of the Shenandoah National Park. While it is only 1.2 miles, the short length can be misleading. The footing is tricky through the rock scramble and it is not a good idea to attempt for a lot of people. If you have weak knees, aren’t flexible, have unsure balance or a fear of heights, this is not a hike for you. Bearfence can also serve as good practice if you are planning on attempting Old Rag. The rock scramble does take some planning to determine how you will traverse each obstacle. The hike takes most people well under an hour, so it’s a great hike to combine with other short hikes in SNP (especially if you’re trying to add to your summit total.)
The rock scramble begins right after you round this rock outcropping
There is an earthcache geocache hidden here titled On Top of Bearfence Mountain. While physical geocaches are not allowed in the park, earthcaches typically teach something about geology. You will normally have to find some information or spot something regarding the geology and answer a few questions to be allowed to give yourself credit.
The scramble.
Christine Says…
Bearfence Mountain is usually a hike that offers great views of the western valley (photo from winter 2007) and Skyline Drive. But today, we were socked in by unusual mid-day fog. It was so odd – at our house (which may be ten miles away as the crow flies) it was mostly clear blue skies with the occasional puffy cloud. But on Bearfence, it was like pea soup.
The trail was really crowded today, mostly by two vanloads of folks from Eastern Mennonite University. They were inexperienced hikers, and moved at a snail’s pace across the rock scramble. Luckily, they let us pass them along the way. Several in the party were really struggling, and were obviously uncomfortable with the terrain. They were hiking with two trained trailguides, so I was a little surprised to see the group on Bearfence. Of all the hikes in the park, I see more people turn back on Bearfence than any other trail. I think the short length misleads people into hiking something they’re not capable of or comfortable with. Don’t get me wrong… most average hikers will find the rock scramble to be quite fun. Personally, scrambles are my favorite type of terrain to hike. I’d rather do a scramble than a sheer uphill any day!
What a view, eh?
The scramble on Bearfence starts after about the first quarter mile of the hike. It’s really the only challenging portion of the trail. After the scramble, you’ll walk along the ridge for a short while. Eventually, you’ll meet back up with the Appalachian Trail and make an easy walk back to where you started.
While we hiked it in the spring this time, Bearfence is especially spectacular during the peak of autumn color.
Trail Notes
Distance – 1.2 miles loop trail
Elevation Change – 380 feet
Difficulty – 2.5. This is short and not strenuous, but if you’re not in good shape , you’ll find it more challenging.
Trail Conditions – 2. While the rest of the trail is in good shape, the rock scramble definitely brings this score down. (however, if you’re like us and love to scramble, this trail rates a 5!)
Views – 3.5. (usually) Today was foggy.
Waterfalls/streams – 0. Non-existent
Wildlife – 1.5. We saw a deer up here and heard that a bear has been spotted along the AT on this mountain.
Ease to Navigate – 3.5. During the rock scramble you’ll need to look for the blue blazes, but it’s not very difficult to follow.
Solitude – 1.5. Expect to see people due to the short distance. Also, plan on being held up by others through the rock scramble if you’re a faster hiker.
Directions to trailhead: The trail is located on Skyline Drive at mile marker 56.4. Park at the the Bearfence Trail parking lot, cross Skyline Drive and begin the hike up, following the blue blazes. Once you complete the rock scramble, you can continue up to the summit or turn right on to the Appalachian Trail to make your way back down. (the trail crosses the AT twice, so you can make your hike even shorter than 1.2 miles if you like)
We get hiking ideas from many different places. When we’re visiting Shenandoah National Park, we use our Falcon Guide more than any other publication. We also really like the National Geographic Trails Illustrated Maps. So far, we’ve found them to be very comprehensive and accurate. The Shenandoah National Park map (#228) is a great supplement to the Falcon Guide because it shows how all the park’s trails interconnect. It also clearly marks lots of park features that are under-the-radar, too. We’ve bushwhacked to some interesting places using the map.
Some of Our Favorite Books and Maps
For hikes in George Washington National Forest, we use mostly use online resources and a couple more of the National Geographic maps. (maps #791 and #792 – which cover Great North Mountain, Massanutten and Shenandoah Mountain)
The web resources we use most frequently are:
Hiking Upward (as of 2016, we also contribute to Hiking Upward, so look for our hikes there!)
There is a lot of information on Trails.com, but their site is a fee service – and we think it’s unnecessary to pay for access to trail information online.
The other way we get ideas for hikes is word of mouth. We chat with other hikers all the time, and are constantly getting new hike ideas.
McAfee Knob is an 8.3 mile hike along the Appalachian Trail near Roanoke. The summit offers truly magnificent views of the Catawba valley below. On a clear day, you can also get great views of the Peaks of Otter (Sharp Top and Flat Top) along the Blue Ridge Parkway.
McAfee Knob’s View of the Catawba Valley
Christine says…
We picked a perfect day in April to hike McAfee Knob. The trees were still mostly bare of leaves, but the skies were crystal clear and completely free of the milky haze that dominates the Virginia summer. We got to the trailhead right at 9:00 a.m. and the parking lot on 311 was already about halfway full. From what I’ve been told, this trail rivals Old Rag in popularity for folks in the southern part of the Shenandoah Valley.
The trail is meticulously maintained. I believe the Roanoke Appalachian Trail Club and local Boy Scouts do most of the trail work. There are many wooden bridges and walkways in the first two miles of the trail that were built as Eagle Scout projects. I think the hike, despite its eight+ mile length, qualifies as a solidly moderate hike. It’s not steep and the trail is smooth and pleasant. It feels a lot shorter than eight miles.
The first few miles of the hike make their way through beautiful, classic Virginia mountains. The trees are a mix of hardwoods and pines that smell delicious as they warm in the sun. There are also expansive stands of mountain laurel along the way. I’m certain they’re a site to behold when they bloom in June.
The view finally opens up when you complete the toughest part of the climb and walk along the ridge of the mountain. The gnats were something else on the day we hiked. If we so much as paused for a few seconds, the bugs swarmed us like mad. The walk along the ridge is brief and leads you past a very cool series of rock formations nicknamed the Devil’s Kitchen. After walking past the giant boulders, you come to a short spur trail to McAfee knob.
The hike is an out-and-back, so the return trip simply retraces your steps.
I think this is a hike I’ll return to time and again. I thought it was one of the most spectacular views I’ve seen in the state.
Adam says…
This was a truly wonderful hike. The views are spectacular and are likely the best views I can remember in Virginia. I grew up in Lynchburg, VA and we used to always hike up Sharp Top at the Peaks of Otter on the Blue Ridge Parkway. I think the views here are better than Sharp Top and well worth the mileage. You can continue the trek on to Tinker Cliffs, but that adds several miles onto the trek and would work better as an overnight backpack trip. The views of the ridgeline and Tinker Cliffs are breathtaking. There is a lot of space at the top to chill out on some rocks and eat a snack. You will often see pictures like the one below when you see pictures for the Appalachian Trail.
I do a lot of geocaching and there is a geocache here if you approach it from the fire road and not the hike on the AT. However, I left my notes in the car, so I just tried to go from my memory and GPS. I tried hiking off the trail and up the mountainside and it took away all my energy.
This View of McAfee Knob is an Appalachian Trail Icon
Trail Notes
Distance – 8.3 miles round-trip
Elevation Change – 1,740 feet
Difficulty – 4. The trail is fairly easy walking, but because the length, we scored it a 4.
Trail Conditions – 5. The trail is well maintained.
Ease to Navigate – 5. It would be nearly impossible to get lost.
Solitude – 1. The trail is exceedingly popular. Parking can be a challenge if you arrive mid-day.
Special regulations for this area:
Maximum group size, day hikes: 25
Maximum group size, backpacking/camping: 10
No alcohol
Dogs must be kept on leash at all times
No camping or campfires outside of seven designated areas (north of Va 624/Newport Rd, the only legal campsites are Johns Spring Shelter, Catawba Shelter and campsites, Pig Farm campsite, Campbell Shelter and Lambert’s Meadow Shelter and campsites)
No camping or campfires on McAfee Knob or Tinker Cliffs
Directions to trailhead:
Take I-81 to exit 141. Follow signs to VA-311. The parking lot is located about 5.5 miles down 311. Park ONLY in the designated lot. Roadside parking is prohibited and will result in towing.
Virginia Trail Guide 
