Bearfence Mountain

Bearfence Mountain is a short, but deceptively challenging hike in the central district of Shenandoah National Park.  Although it  measures just 1.2 miles, it’s not for the faint of heart when it comes to heights.

The beginning of the Bearfence Trail
The beginning of the Bearfence Trail

Adam Says…

We decided to do this one on short notice, because it’s so close to our house and we didn’t have a lot of free time today.  It is one of the southernmost hikes in the central district of the Shenandoah National Park.  While it is only 1.2 miles, the short length can be misleading.  The footing is tricky through the rock scramble and it is not a good idea to attempt for a lot of people.  If you have weak knees, aren’t flexible, have unsure balance or a fear of heights, this is not a hike for you.  Bearfence can also serve as good practice if you are planning on attempting Old Rag.  The rock scramble does take some planning to determine how you will traverse each obstacle.  The hike takes most people well under an hour, so it’s a great hike to combine with other short hikes in SNP (especially if you’re trying to add to your summit total.)

The rock scramble begins right after you round this rock outcropping
The rock scramble begins right after you round this rock outcropping

There is an earthcache geocache hidden here titled On Top of Bearfence Mountain.  While physical geocaches are not allowed in the park, earthcaches typically teach something about geology.  You will normally have to find some information or spot something regarding the geology and answer a few questions to be allowed to give yourself credit.

The scramble.
The scramble.

Christine Says…

Bearfence Mountain is usually a hike that offers great views of the western valley (photo from winter 2007) and Skyline Drive.  But today, we were socked in by unusual mid-day fog.  It was so odd – at our house (which may be ten miles away as the crow flies) it was mostly clear blue skies with the occasional puffy cloud.  But on Bearfence, it was like pea soup.

The trail was really crowded today, mostly by two vanloads of folks from Eastern Mennonite University.  They were inexperienced hikers, and moved at a snail’s pace across the rock scramble.  Luckily, they let us pass them along the way.  Several in the party were really struggling, and were obviously uncomfortable with the terrain.  They were hiking with two trained trailguides, so I was a little surprised to see the group on Bearfence.  Of all the hikes in the park, I see more people turn back on Bearfence than any other trail.  I think the short length misleads people into hiking something they’re not capable of or comfortable with.  Don’t get me wrong… most average hikers will find the rock scramble to be quite fun.  Personally, scrambles are my favorite type of terrain to hike.  I’d rather do a scramble than a sheer uphill any day!

view blog
What a view, eh?

The scramble on Bearfence starts after about the first quarter mile of the hike.  It’s really the only challenging portion of the trail.  After the scramble, you’ll walk along the ridge for a short while.  Eventually, you’ll meet back up with the Appalachian Trail and make an easy walk back to where you started.

While we hiked it in the spring this time, Bearfence is especially spectacular during the peak of autumn color.

Trail Notes

  • Distance – 1.2 miles loop trail
  • Elevation Change – 380 feet
  • Difficulty – 2.5. This is short and not strenuous, but if you’re not in good shape , you’ll find it more challenging.
  • Trail Conditions – 2. While the rest of the trail is in good shape, the rock scramble definitely brings this score down. (however, if you’re like us and love to scramble, this trail rates a 5!)
  • Views – 3.5. (usually)  Today was foggy.
  • Waterfalls/streams – 0. Non-existent
  • Wildlife – 1.5. We saw a deer up here and heard that a bear has been spotted along the AT on this mountain.
  • Ease to Navigate – 3.5. During the rock scramble you’ll need to look for the blue blazes, but it’s not very difficult to follow.
  • Solitude – 1.5. Expect to see people due to the short distance.  Also, plan on being held up by others through the rock scramble if you’re a faster hiker.

Directions to trailhead: The trail is located on Skyline Drive at mile marker 56.4.  Park at the the Bearfence Trail parking lot, cross Skyline Drive and begin the hike up, following the blue blazes.  Once you complete the rock scramble, you can continue up to the summit or turn right on to the Appalachian Trail to make your way back down. (the trail crosses the AT twice, so you can make your hike even shorter than 1.2 miles if you like)

Rose River Loop

The Rose River Loop is one of Shenandoah National Park’s most beautiful hikes for streams and waterfalls.  Over the course of 3.7 miles, you’ll hike along the Rose River, the Hog Camp Branch, and finally up the Rose River fire road.

A new log is resting on the crest of the falls
Two large fallen trees obscure Rose River falls.

Adam Says…

This hike is one of our most-repeated hikes in Shenandoah National Park.  It has some great views of running water throughout the trail. This isn’t the most secluded trail since it connects to Dark Hollow Falls.  However, you should normally only come across a few other people on this trail.  There are some good places to do some trout-fishing along the river.  The man pictured a few photos down had caught a 8.5 inch trout the day before at the same spot.

The hike starts off at the parking area just north of the Fishers Gap Overlook.  Cross the road and follow the Skyland-Big Meadows Horse Trail for .5 mile.  There is a steady downhill grade, but it’s not too steep. At .5 miles, you’ll reach the junction of the Horse Trail and the Rose River Trail.  Go right and follow the Rose River Trail, continuing downhill.  Once you reach the bottom of the trail in about a mile, you’ll hear the water. The trail continues alongside the stream for a ways.  You will reach Rose River falls at 1.3 miles.  They are impressive, but more beauty awaits along the trail.  For fans of long-exposure photography, this is a paradise.

The trail will pass an old copper mine at 1.8 miles.  Some people like to explore the old mine, but we don’t think there is anything worth seeing there.

For the next mile, the trail closely follows the stream.  It is very rocky and can be icy or muddy depending on the weather.  There are tons of small waterfalls, slides, and plunge pools to explore.

At 2.7 miles, you will reach the footbridge at the bottom of Dark Hollow Falls.  Turn right, cross the  bridge, and follow the Rose River Fire Road uphill.  At 3.3 miles, you will pass the Cave Cemetery on the right.  At 3.7 miles, you will arrive back at Skyline Drive and your vehicle.

You can see from some of Christine’s pictures that there is really a lot of nice water to see on this trail.  I highly recommend doing this if you have a day or two in the park.

Some graves date back to the Civil War.
Some graves (not this one) in the Cave Family Cemetery date back to the Civil War.

As I usually like to comment, there is a geocache located here.  For those that are unaware, physical geocaches are not allowed in National Parks.  However, there is a small cemetery located off of the fire road that is considered private land and not owned by the Park Service.  The cemetery was used by the people who used to live in the mountain hollows before the government took their land for the park in the early 1900’s.  The Cave family gave permission for a geocache to be placed here called Viking Treasure Cave. ETA:  This cache has since been removed from the park (September 2010)

Christine Says…

When we started down the Rose River trail, I couldn’t help but skeptically watch the blue sky peeking between openings in the trees above.  The local weatherman had forecast a cloudy morning, but as we hiked along the sun began sending down rays and making a dappled pattern across the forest floor.  It was lovely to look at, but was definitely not the kind of light I was hoping to have for the stream and waterfall photos I wanted take.  You see, the Rose River Loop is one of the very best hikes in Shenandoah for folks who enjoy photographing running water.  It’s also the place where my brother proposed to his now wife.  They were engaged on a bitter cold New Year’s Eve camping trip somewhere along the Rose River.

The Rose River
The Rose River has many beautiful small, unnamed falls.  I’ve named this one “Slip and Slide Falls” because the bushwhack down to the base is so steep.

Even though the light made photography a challenge today, I found several spots to shoot along the Rose River.  We had to bushwhack off the trail a couple times, and all I could think about were ticks.  I don’t think I’ve recovered from our walk down the Dry Run Falls fire road yet.

One bushwhack in particular was especially steep, slick and muddy.  As luck would have it, it also offered the prettiest of all the little cascades along the walk.   When I looked down the ravine, for some reason my inner girly-girl came out.  I announced to Adam that I wasn’t going down there no matter what.  He said “Yes, you are!” and took my camera away and starting climbing down without me.  I was left with no choice but to follow.  I got really muddy and touched a gross centipede-like creature.  I’ll never like bugs!

We stopped at Rose River Falls for a few shots.  For the past few years, there has been a huge fallen tree lying across the waterfall.  It’s still there, but now there is a new downed tree stuck at the crest of the waterfall.   Both trees are way too big to move, and will likely be there for years to come.

We paused at a couple other places along the Hog Camp Branch for photos, but there was another photographer who was consistently about ten minutes ahead of us on the hike.  Each time we got to a spot I planned on photographing, he was already there.  He looked pretty serious getting his shots.  At one spot, he even donned chest high waders and water shoes so that he could get to the middle of the stream for an ideal composition.   I skipped a lot of my favorite photo spots along the Hog Camp because I always feel a bit rude stepping into somebody’s shooting space.

I had my tripod all set up when the fisherman jumped into my scene
Speaking of stepping into someone’s shooting space… I had my tripod all set up when this fisherman dropped into my scene.  Oh well 🙂

We finished the loop hike on the Rose River fire road.  The last mile on the road is always my least favorite part of the hike.  The fire road is easy walking, but yawn… it’s a bit on the boring side. Despite the dull last leg, the Rose River loop is a must-do hike for anyone visiting Shenandoah.

I'm so lucky that Adam routinely offers to carry all my photography gear.
I’m so lucky that Adam routinely offers to carry all my photography gear.

Trail Notes

  • Distance – 3.7 miles loop trail
    (Check out the stats from Map My Hike)*
  • Elevation Change – Around 900 feet
  • Difficulty – 2. Some downhill and uphill, but it’s not too bad.
  • Trail Conditions – 3.5. There are some areas along the river that are more like a 2, but there are some areas that where it is more like a 5.  Footing is tricky around the climb up after the red bridge.
  • Views – 0. Just waterfall and stream views.
  • Waterfalls/streams – 4.5. Some of the most continuous views of water that allow for some great water photography.
  • Wildlife – 1. Some birds and chipmunks, but not much else here.
  • Ease to Navigate – 5. Trail is well-marked and there aren’t any spurs until you get back to the fire road.
  • Solitude – 3. Not the best on solitude, but you won’t run into a ton of people.

Download a trail map

Directions to trailhead: The trail is located on Skyline Drive.  Park at the Fisher’s Gap Overlook (at mile marker 49.4 miles), cross the road and pick up the trail.  The Rose River Loop starts to the left of the fire road.  You will see a cement marker.

McAfee Knob

IMPORTANT: Please read these important regulations and helpful tips before hiking in this area

McAfee Knob is an 8.3 mile hike along the Appalachian Trail near Roanoke.  The summit offers truly magnificent views of the Catawba valley below.  On a clear day, you can also get great views of the Peaks of Otter (Sharp Top and Flat Top) along the Blue Ridge Parkway.

McAfee Knob's View of the Catawba Valley
McAfee Knob’s View of the Catawba Valley

Christine says…

We picked a perfect day in April to hike McAfee Knob.  The trees were still mostly bare of leaves, but the skies were crystal clear and completely free of the milky haze that dominates the Virginia summer.  We got to the trailhead right at 9:00 a.m. and the parking lot on 311 was already about halfway full.  From what I’ve been told, this trail rivals Old Rag in popularity for folks in the southern part of the Shenandoah Valley.

The trail is meticulously maintained.  I believe the Roanoke Appalachian Trail Club and local Boy Scouts do most of the trail work.  There are many wooden bridges and walkways in the first two miles of the trail that were built as Eagle Scout projects. I think the hike, despite its eight+ mile length, qualifies as a solidly moderate hike.  It’s not steep and the trail is smooth and pleasant.  It feels a lot shorter than eight miles.

The first few miles of the hike make their way through beautiful, classic Virginia mountains.  The trees are a mix of hardwoods and pines that smell delicious as they warm in the sun.  There are also expansive stands of mountain laurel along the way.  I’m certain they’re a site to behold when they bloom in June.

The view finally opens up when you complete the toughest part of the climb and walk along the ridge of the mountain.  The gnats were something else on the day we hiked.  If we so much as paused for a few seconds, the bugs swarmed us like mad.  The walk along the ridge is brief and leads you past a very cool series of rock formations nicknamed the Devil’s Kitchen.  After walking past the giant boulders, you come to a short spur trail to McAfee knob.

The hike is an out-and-back, so the return trip simply retraces your steps.

I think this is a hike I’ll return to time and again.  I thought it was one of the most spectacular views I’ve seen in the state.

Adam says…

This was a truly wonderful hike.  The views are spectacular and  are likely the best views I can remember in Virginia. I grew up in Lynchburg, VA and we used to always hike up Sharp Top at the Peaks of Otter on the Blue Ridge Parkway.  I think the views here are better than Sharp Top and well worth the mileage.  You can continue the trek on to Tinker Cliffs, but that adds several miles onto the trek and would work better as an overnight backpack trip.  The views of the ridgeline and Tinker Cliffs are breathtaking.  There is a lot of space at the top to chill out on some rocks and eat a snack.  You will often see pictures like the one below when you see pictures for the Appalachian Trail.

I do a lot of geocaching and there is a geocache here if you approach it from the fire road and not the hike on the AT.  However, I left my notes in the car, so I just tried to go from my memory and GPS.  I tried hiking off the trail and up the mountainside and it took away all my energy.

This View of McAfee is an Appalachian Trail Icon
This View of McAfee Knob is an Appalachian Trail Icon

Trail Notes

  • Distance – 8.3 miles round-trip
  • Elevation Change – 1,740 feet
  • Difficulty – 4.  The trail is fairly easy walking, but because the length, we scored it a 4.
  • Trail Conditions – 5.   The trail is well maintained.
  • Views – 5.  One of the finest views in Virginia.
  • Waterfalls/streams – 0.
  • Wildlife – 2.  We saw a lot of Eastern Fence Lizards, but nothing else.
  • Ease to Navigate – 5.   It would be nearly impossible to get lost.
  • Solitude – 1.  The trail is exceedingly popular.  Parking can be a challenge if you arrive mid-day.

Special regulations for this area:

  • Maximum group size, day hikes: 25
  • Maximum group size, backpacking/camping: 10
  • No alcohol
  • Dogs must be kept on leash at all times
  • No camping or campfires outside of seven designated areas (north of Va 624/Newport Rd, the only legal campsites are Johns Spring Shelter, Catawba Shelter and campsites, Pig Farm campsite, Campbell Shelter and Lambert’s Meadow Shelter and campsites)
  • No camping or campfires on McAfee Knob or Tinker Cliffs

Directions to trailhead:

Take I-81 to exit 141.  Follow signs to VA-311.  The parking lot is located about 5.5 miles down 311.  Park ONLY in the designated lot.  Roadside parking is prohibited and will result in towing.

Strickler Knob – via Scothorn Gap

The Strickler Knob hike is a beautiful, 5.5 mile hike in the Lee Ranger District of George Washington National Forest.  It offers fabulous views of the Page Valley and a short, but fun, rock scramble.

View from Strickler
The view of New Market Gap from Strickler Knob is amazing! Below: Park at Scothorn Gap; Adam crossing Passage Creek; Trail markers.

Park Here Crossing Passage Creek Trail Sign

Adam says…

This is a great hike that is still not very well known.  There are some great views at the top and a mini rock scramble that is good preparation for anyone who wants a little practice before tackling Old Rag.  I wouldn’t recommend this hike for small children or dogs due to the rock scramble.

The hike can be a little tricky to navigate, so I have provided some clear directions for following the trail.

After parking at Scothorn Gap, you’ll immediately wade or rock hop across Passage Creek.  The hike starts off on a fire road.  The way starts to get fairly steep at .4 miles, but levels off again at .65 miles. At .8 miles, the hike gets steep again, but levels at .95 miles. This is the hardest part of the hike, so once that is done, the elevation changes are small. At 1.07 miles, you will see a nice campsite for anyone that wants to stay overnight. At this point, you will see an arrow pointing to the right, where you will pick up the trail again. The trail continues SSE from the campsite and you will be leaving the fire road for a hike through the woods. At 1.3 miles, you will come to a junction sign. Head straight on to the orange-blazed Massanutten trail.

At 1.94 miles you will come to the junction with the Strickler Knob trail to the right. This trail was built and opened in 2006 by some anonymous trailblazers. The blazes for this trail are marked as pink on rocks and typically red or purple rectangles on trees. This trail is fairly rocky, so be careful not to turn your ankles. Around 2.5 miles, you will see gorgeous views of the Shenandoah River and the Blue Ridge Mountains to the east. To the west, you will see more of the Shenandoah valley and the Appalachian Mountains. At 2.67 miles, you will reach a rock scramble for about one tenth of a mile until you reach the summit. This is a great spot to have 360 degree views of the area around you. Tied to a tree, you will also see a logbook that someone placed for people to journal about their hike.  It’s definitely a good read to those that are interested.

For those that are interested, I also placed a geocache up there.  The direct link for the geocache can be found at:

Rock Formation
The hike to Strickler Knob has lots of interesting rock formations to scramble over! Below: One of the more interesting formations; Adam walks the mountain’s spine; Scrambling up the pinkish-purple blazed Strickler Trail; More rock formations.

Rock Formation Spine Walk Scrambling Rock Formation

Christine says…

We hiked the Strickler Knob trail on the recommendation of a friend of mine from Flickr.  He said it was a fun hike with excellent views.  He wasn’t kidding!

We walked the trail on a bitter, windy winter day shortly before the forest road closed for the season.  The section of road that leads to the trailhead is periodically closed in the winter to prevent damage to the road surface.  (You can always check the status of roads and trails in the George Washington National Forest on their website) The hike was fairly easy and passed through the beautiful woods of Massanutten Mountain.  The Strickler Knob trail branches off the main trail and follows a rocky ridgeline over to the knob.  I love scrambling on rocks, so the last portion of the trail was my favorite part.

When we reached the knob, the view was amazing.  We got there mid-day, so it wasn’t a great time for photography.  I’d like to hike it again in the afternoon sometime.  I think the late day light would be prettier on the rocks and over the valley below.

Trail Journal
There is a log book at the summit of Strickler Knob.  Below:  Adam takes in the view; Geocaching

Strickler View Geocache

While Adam hid his geocache, I spent some time reading the trail journal at the summit.  It was entertaining, and I even came across the name of an old co-worker in the book.    I also remember it being super windy at the summit.  It was so bad, my bag of trailmix blew over and (sadly) sent chocolate covered peanuts spilling all over the rocks.  I hate it when I lose chocolate like that.  I’m sure some stupid crow enjoyed it though.

Trail Notes

  • Distance – 5.5 miles round-trip
  • Elevation Change – 1,600 feet
  • Difficulty – 3.  There is some moderate climbing along the route.  The scramble might be tough/scary for some.
  • Trail Conditions – 3.   Most of the trail is nicely graded and well maintained.  But once you turn onto the Strickler Knob trail it’s rocky and requires some scrambling.
  • Views – 4.  Once you reach the top you have some great views.
  • Waterfalls/streams – 1.  Just a small stream to cross at the beginning.
  • Wildlife – 2.  Hunters like this area, so there must be wildlife (although we didn’t see any.) During hunting season, make sure you’re wearing bright colors and making noise.  A co-worker who was running up here also got attacked by a wild goat here.
  • Ease to Navigate – 3.   The blazes can be a little tricky to follow on the pink blazed Strickler Knob trail.  Otherwise, the trail is pretty straightforward.
  • Solitude – 2.  Since 2009, this trail has become increasingly popular.  We revised the solitude rating from 4.5 down to 2 in 2014.

Directions to trailhead:

Reach the trailhead by turning on to Crisman Hollow Road (FD 274) off of 211 near Luray. Continue on this road for a few miles and park at the Scothorn Gap trail parking.

Once you have parked follow Orange Blazes on Scothorn Gap trail.  Follow trail directions above.