good camping – Page 7 – Virginia Trail Guide

Big Schloss

September 21, 2009August 26, 201511 Comments

Big Schloss is a moderate 4 mile hike with gorgeous views at the top. Located in George Washington National Forest’s Lee Ranger District, this trail is one of our favorite re-hikes due to great views and beauty of the trail.

Christine's dad and Adam at the Big Schloss overlook. — Christine’s dad and Adam at the Big Schloss overlook.

Adam says…

Since Christine’s birthday is this week, her parents wanted to do something to celebrate. So, we decided to take them on a hike to Big Schloss and have a picnic. We’ve done this hike on numerous occasions, but this was the first time for her parents.

German settlers to this area named this rock outcropping “Big Schloss” due to its resemblance to a castle. “Schloss” means “castle” in German.

We parked at the Wolf Gap Campground. There are outhouses near the parking lot in case you need to make a pit stop before the hike. The Mill Mountain trailhead starts out from campsite #9. You’ll see the trail marker indicating a distance of two miles to Big Schloss.

Christine's mom climbs the Mill Mountain Trail — Christine’s mom climbs the Mill Mountain Trail. Below: We saw lots of red and yellow in the trees already, the first panoramic view after the initial ascent, Christine’s Mom and Dad check out the small cave

The hike starts off with a fairly steep and steady uphill. However, you are getting this portion of the hike done with first, which is a nice bonus. After .66 miles, your climb ends. When you reach the ridge, the trail takes a sharp turn to the left. For most of the remainder of this hike, you will be walking on the top of the ridge, with occasional views through the trees to your left of the Long Mountain ridge and better views to your right.

At .78 miles, you will come to your first overlook. We noticed quite a bit of tree color on the trail and at the overlooks, which gets us both excited for some fall hiking. You’ll continue walking on the ridge, going slightly up and down, but not a lot of elevation change. At 1.75 miles, you will reach a signpost leading you to take a right to take the Big Schloss spur trail to the summit just .25 miles ahead. At 1.9 miles, you will see a campsite off to the left of the main trail and a small rock outcrop that holds a small cave.

You access the Big Schloss overlook via a small wood footbridge.

Shortly after this, you will cross a wooden footbridge and then reach the summit for the best views. There is not a ton of room on the rocks to view the summit, but you will likely have a spot to enjoy the view and eat a snack.

At the summit, we ate a small handful of trailmix and then made our way back to the parking lot for a picnic lunch. Christine’s mother went overboard on packing for the picnic. She brought about 15 pieces of fried chicken, various pasta salads, pineapple, grapes, cheese & crackers, three different bags of potato chips, assorted beverages, and two birthday cakes (lemon blueberry cake and coconut cake). We ate way more than should have, but we had a wonderful morning for a hike.

Adam and our friend Shannon found the Big Schloss Cache back in 2007.

If you are into geocaching, there is one that you can find not too far from the summit.

Big Schloss Cache

Christine Says…

Big Schloss is one of my favorite hikes in the Lee District. It’s a beautiful hike in every season! Springtime brings a trail lined with mountain laurel and rhododendron. In the fall, the changing foliage colors spread across the valley below like a colorful tapestry (photo from Fall ’08). Summer brings fog in the valley and dense green foliage all around (photo from May 2007). In the winter, views are crystal clear and unobstructed for miles and miles.

Big Schloss offers beautiful, panoramic views - especially to the west. — Big Schloss offers beautiful, panoramic views – especially to the west.

The area is popular with central Virginians. The Wolf Gap campground is often full, and you’ll see hiking groups – especially on weekends. We’ve seen everything from hardcore mountain bikers to ultra-distance trail runners on the Mill Mountain trail. A couple years ago, we even met a team of competitive cyclists helping an injured teammate off the mountain. The terrain is very rugged, so I imagine you’d have to be an experienced mountain biker to travel this route.

On this particular day, we hiked with my Mom & Dad to celebrate my birthday. In addition to their wonderful company, I also got the gift of a new hiking gadget before starting the hike. My parents gave me a pair of Komperdell trekking poles. I’ve been wanting to get a set of poles for quite some time now, so I was thrilled with the present. I don’t really have the best of balance, so I loved the added stability the poles gave me hiking down the loose, rocky trail on the return trip. I was also amazed with how much strain they took off my knees. The model they gave me has cork handles, which are apparently cooler and chafe less than other handle types.

We were surprised to see how many colorful leaves had already fallen.

When we started out on our hike, the sky was brilliant blue with just an occasional cloud passing by overhead. By the time we got to the overlook, the sky was mostly cloudy and hazy. It wasn’t the best view that we’ve ever had from Big Schloss, but it was beautiful nonetheless. I loved seeing the hints of autumn starting to appear in the forest. The Virginia creeper was crimson. A lot of maples and dogwoods were starting to change, too. At every open viewpoint, we could see distant ridges with red, yellow and orange trees peppered into the greenness. Fall is definitely on its way, and I think it might be coming early this year.

We really didn’t stay too long at the summit, especially since we had a big picnic lunch waiting for us at the campground. As Adam mentioned, my mom went nuts with quantity and selection. I’m not complaining, but seriously… who brings two birthday cakes to a picnic lunch for four people?

My mom even brought birthday candles along. My family “sang” Happy Birthday to me while the breeze repeatedly blew out the candles. You’ll notice “sang” is in quote marks. I have to tell you, my family cannot sing – not a single note. They’re so bad, it’s become a family joke to make “Happy Birthday to You” sound like the saddest, most off-key, howl-inducing dirge you might ever imagine. Since we were in a public place, my dad and Adam put extra effort into singing it loudly and badly. I think I heard babies crying, dogs barking and campers exclaiming “What is that noise?”

After lunch, we parted ways with my parents and headed home. It was a great hike.

Note: There is another great trail starting out from the Wolf Gap Campground. If you have a couple days in the area, check out the Tibbet Knob trail.

Trail Notes

Distance – 4 milesout-and-back. Add another .1 mile to get to your car.
Elevation Change –1000 feet
Difficulty – 2. After a rather steep .7 mile climb at the beginning, the trail is mostly level and follows a ridge. There is one other short climb after the Mill Mountain Trail meets up with the Big Schloss spur.
Trail Conditions – 2.5. The trail is well-maintained but it’s rocky and has lots of loose footing in the first .7 mile.
Views –4.5. The view are pretty spectacular – especially on a clear day.
Waterfalls/streams –0. Non-existent.
Wildlife – 0 We didn’t see anything beyond chipmunks, birds and squirrels. We did see a fawn near the Wolf Gap campground.
Ease to Navigate – 4. Just stay straight on the trail.
Solitude – 2. This trail doesn’t see the same crowds as trails in Shenandoah National Park, but it is a popular hike with the local crowd.

Download a Trail Map (PDF)

Directions to trailhead:
From I-81, take exit 279. Follow Rte. 675 until it meets Route 42. Turn right on 42 and then take almost an immediate left on 675 (Wolf Gap Road). Follow Wolf Gap Road (you will have to make a few turns so keep an eye at road junctions) until you come to the Wolf Gap Campground (right on the Hardy County Line.)

Cole/Cold Mountain

September 15, 2009September 25, 201741 Comments

Amherst County’s Cole Mountain Loop is a moderate 6 mile hike with serious payoffs at the summit. Situated in George Washington National Forest’s Pedlar Ranger District, this trail (also know as “Cold Mountain”) is one of Central Virginia’s only hikes to cross a bald, pasture-like summit. Views of the valley from the saddle and summit are open in every direction.

The Cold Mountain summit is open and offers panoramic views in every direction. In this shot you can see the white Appalachian Trail blaze and the USGS benchmark. — The Cole Mountain summit is open and offers panoramic views in every direction. In this shot you can see the white Appalachian Trail blaze and the USGS benchmark.

Christine Says…

Despite the busyness of our weekend, Adam and I made time to hike the Cole Mountain loop on Sunday morning. We had read a description of the trail on another hiking site. Their reviewer compared the summit to Scotland or Switzerland. I don’t know about that, but it was definitely some of the prettiest Virginia summit scenery I’ve ever seen.

We started out from home at 5:30 in the morning. It was still dark, but we wanted to hike before the crowds and heat got too bad. We made a short detour before the hike to visit Statons Creek Falls. It was just a couple miles from the trailhead, and was well worth a look.

The Appalachian Trail crossing is well-marked. Park across from this sign in a small lot.

The forest service road to the Cole Mountain trailhead is unpaved and bumpy. There is only room for five or six cars at the parking area, which is located right at an Appalachian Trail crossing.

The hike starts out downhill along the forest service road for a couple tenths of a mile. You’ll soon pick up the blue-blazed Hotel Trail on the right side of the road. The route follows the Hotel Trail for about 3.5 miles until a junction with the Appalachian Trail (AT). The AT takes you up a series of switchbacks, across the Cole Mountain summit and eventually back down to the parking lot where you started out.

Just a few of the gorgeous wildflowers on display in the meadow. Pictured below: The old hog wall, the open meadow along the Hotel Trail, a beautiful tree sheltering one of the loveliest backcountry campgrounds in Virginia.

The thing I loved about this hike was the ever-changing landscape along the way. It was a perfect sampling of Virginia’s varied scenery. The trail started off winding its way down through lush, green beds of ferns sheltered by old hardwoods. After passing through a short tunnel of pines, the forest gave way to a wide meadow-like clearing filled with shoulder high wildflowers in every shade of pink, purple, yellow and white. Descending back into the forest, we saw numerous remnants from a bygone mountain farm. Crumbling stone “hog walls” and errant apple trees were easily spotted along the trail.

The Cow Camp Gap Shelter. Pictured below: a checkerboard is painted onto the shelter floor, Adam enjoys reading the shelter journal

We took a snack break along a small stream just before the 3 mile mark. There was a fire pit and log seats that made a perfect place to enjoy some trail mix and water. We ended up taking another break a few tenths of a mile down the trail when we arrived at the Cow Camp Gap Shelter. This shelter is just one of many three-sided huts located along (or near) the Appalachian Trail. This one was especially nice. There was a checkerboard painted on the floor, with acorn cap and twig game pieces. The shelter had a newer log book, so there weren’t many entries to enjoy this time. The site also had the biggest picnic table I’ve ever seen. It made Adam look like he was hobbit-sized.

The shelter marks the beginning of the only serious uphill climb on this hike. About a half mile after leaving the shelter, you meet up with the Appalachian Trail and head north. Along the way, the forest begins to thin out, giving you glimpses of a view from rocky ledges along the trail.

Upon reaching the saddle of Cole Mountain, the terrain changes radically and instantly. The trees disappear and a wide, pasture-like alley appears across the summit. The field is dotted with giant boulders and speckled with wildflowers. It’s a great place for a picnic lunch. You certainly can’t beat the sweeping views in every direction.

Adam Says…

This truly was a wonderful hike! I don’t think this hike is very well known to those that don’t live in Central Virginia, but it is a true gem and definitely worth a trip no matter where you live. We had absolutely perfect hiking weather with beautiful blue skies, dappled with an occasional cloud. We plan on coming back down to this area soon to try the nearby hike of Mount Pleasant.

Cole Mountain is also commonly known as Cold Mountain (and is listed as such on Hiking Upward), but when we saw its official name through the USGS was Cole Mountain, we are sticking with their name. I know when I told my family about hiking Cold Mountain, they thought about the movie with Nicole Kidman and Jude Law. That Cold Mountain is actually in North Carolina, along the Blue Ridge Parkway.

The first lookout point along the Appalachian Trail was already showing some signs of fall.

To begin the circuit that we chose, we took the Hotel Trail. The origin of the name is supposedly derived from the landowner Joseph Richeson, whose house was known as The Hotel, due to the number of frequent guests.

Once you start the Hotel Trail, you will almost immediately come to a horse gate. Go through the horse gate and continue to follow the blue blazes. You will follow these blue blazes until you reach the junction with the Appalachian Trail. At .9 miles, you will reach the beautiful field of wildflowers on your left that Christine mentioned. At around 1.3 miles, you will reach a gorgeous spot for an overnight camp. I would highly recommend this to anyone that is planning on doing a backpacking trip. There is a large firepit formed with logs to sit and enjoy some S’mores over an open fire.

From the firepit, look to the northeast and you will see the blue blazes continue. At 1.7 miles, you will come across the “hog wall”, which is neat to think about people that used this area in the past. Continue down the trail until you reach the bottom of Cow Camp Gap at 2.9 miles. On our way down, I heard some strong howling off in the distant which sounded like coyotes. Since we’ve heard of this from other hikers, there must be some nearby. You will see on the other side of a small stream, the Cow Camp Gap Shelter. This is a great spot for any thru-hikers or people that just want to have a packed lunch, rest, or fill up water from the spring. We always enjoy reading the logs that thru-hikers and backpackers leave during their trips there. Once you see the shelter on the right, just stay on the trail until you reach the junction just ahead. The path to the right will take you to the shelter and the spring, but after your stop, you will take the path to the left. I imagine that during rainier times, this would be a nice spot to hear a trickling stream, but it was dried out when we were there.

From the junction at the shelter, you will have another .5 miles to reach the junction with the Appalachian Trail. At 3.5 miles, take a right (North) on the Appalachian trail. You will continue your ascent through a few switchbacks. At 3.7 miles, you will reach the first of two nice spots for an overlook at the edge of the switchback. Continue on the trail until you reach the large meadow with the summit. You will see a few vertical 4 foot high rocks sticking out of the ground. On the ground in the rock, you will see the USGS benchmark which marks the summit of Cole Mountain at 4,033 feet. Take a moment to enjoy the views at the summit and continue to follow the AT white blazes going north. You will see many gorgeous panoramic 360 degree views as you cross along the highlands for a few tenths of a mile. The scenery was truly breathtaking as we trekked across the highlands of the saddle, across the bald summit. (Note: camping and/or fires are not allowed on the bald of Cold Mountain.) At the end of the meadow at 5.2 miles, you will begin your descent into the woods and back to your vehicle. You will cross over a fire road, but stay on the white-blazed trail until you reach your vehicle.

Adam makes his way across the bald summit of Cole Mountain. Pictured below: this bush was heavy with berries.

If you are into geocaching, there are a two that you can find along the way. The first is at the “hog wall” and the second is near the summit. There was also another at Statons Creek Falls, which I feel is one of the prettiest waterfalls in Virginia. Here are links to the sites for those that are interested:

As a slightly humorous aside, we did see a couple of guys hiking that came over from another mountain. They had already hiked for about 8 miles, making this hike their second summit. They were planning on going back the way they came and making it a 17 mile hike to do in one day. We saw them around noon and they were hoping to make it back to their car around dinner time. They had a poor map and we tried to show them directions, but they were off quickly. However, they ended up going the opposite way away from their vehicle. We thought we should probably check the news to see if they became lost. I hope they got back safely, but I’m sure they had to reheat their dinner.

I would definitely say that this hike is one of my favorites in Virginia. The views were exceptional and the scenery along the entire trail was magnificent. Make this a “must-do” hike in your future planning! You won’t regret it.

Trail Notes

Distance – 6 miles loop
(Check out the stats from Map My Hike)*
Note – the MapMyHike stats show the loop in reverse. When we rehiked the route on 6/25/16, we did it the opposite way so we hit the meadow views first.
Elevation Change – 1490 feet – The trail starts out both up and down, but the ascent to the summit is about 1.5 miles uphill.
Difficulty – 3. The trail starts with some ascents and descents. Once you meet the AT, you have about a steady uphill for 1.5 miles, but it wasn’t too tough.
Trail Conditions – 4. The trail is well-maintained and not too hard on the feet. There are some downhill portions that have some loose rock.
Views – 5. It doesn’t get better than panoramic 360 degree mountain views. We felt the scenery throughout the trail was gorgeous.
Waterfalls/streams – 0.5. There is a stream near the Cow Camp Gap shelter, but it was down to a trickle for us.
Wildlife – 1.5. We only saw a deer around here.
Ease to Navigate – 3. There aren’t a lot of turns here, but you may feel a little confused starting off.
Solitude –3.5. We did encounter a few people, but we had a lot of beauty to ourselves. Expect to see a few people along the highlands at the top, but there is a ton of room to enjoy the scenery privately.

* MapMyHike is not necessarily accurate, as the GPS signal fades in and out – but it still provides some fun and interesting information.

Directions to trailhead: Take Exit 188A off of Interstate-81, merging on to US-60 towards Buena Vista. After going through Buena Vista, take a left at Coffeytown Road/Rte 634. After 1.6 miles, take a right on to Wiggins Spring Road/Rte 755. While four-wheel drive isn’t necessary, I would recommend it since it is a rough gravel road. Stay on this for about 2.5 miles until you reach parking on the left side of the road. (GPS Coordinates for parking: 37.759652, -79.195336) Park your vehicle and then proceed further down the road for .2 miles. Before the road splits, you will see two posts marked with blue blazes which will begin the Hotel Trail.

Hightop Mountain

September 9, 2009December 22, 20161 Comment

Hightop Mountain is a nice hike along the Appalachian Trail in the Southern District of Shenandoah National Park. It features a super view and you can take a short spur trail to view an Appalachian Trail shelter.

It wasn't the prettiest day for hiking, but the view from Hightop was still impressive. Hightop is the tallest peak in the south district of the park. — It wasn’t the prettiest day for hiking, but the view from Hightop was still impressive. Hightop is the tallest peak in the south district of the park.

Adam Says…

Wow, it’s been a while. Sorry for the delay in posting anything new for a while, but life has just gotten in the way. We did get to go for a week in the White Mountains of New Hampshire and our annual trip to Acadia National Park in Maine, but we haven’t hiked in Virginia for a while. We’re just now getting back into the swing of things. We had a limited time on Sunday to do a hike, so we decided to pick something close by and relatively short. It was great to get back on the trails!

The hike was very nice. The trail had a steady uphill the entire way up, but it felt very manageable. We noticed that the trail was a little more overgrown than normal. This year has seemed to be great for weeds growing early on in the summer. Usually we have better views along the side of Skyline Drive and the trails, but things seem to have grown wilder this year. I’m sure the rain and cooler summer temps have caused this. The grass and weeds along the way tended to tickle our legs. The hike didn’t have a lot to view along the way, but it was nice to take a side trip and view the AT cabin and log. Around 1.2 miles, you will reach the intersection with the Smith Roach Gap Fire Road. Just cross the road to continue on the AT. You can reach the AT cabin by taking the spur trail shortly after the intersection with the Smith Roach Gap Fire Road. I always enjoy reading through the logs of those that have passed through. In this logbook there was some entries about people bringing the thru-hikers food, some card game scores, and a tale about how a bunch of them danced naked in the evening.

The views at the top really do show you a lot of mountains to the south and you can get nice glimpses of Skyline Drive. On a nice fall day, this could be a great photo opportunity when the leaves change color.

On the way back after .6 miles, you can take the option of taking the Smith Roach Gap Fire Road back to your car by taking a left, but the fire road looked very overgrown, so we opted to just go back the way we came.

Hightop Hut offers a nice rest stop for weary hikers and backpackers. Below: The hut has a trail journal. They are always a lot of fun to read.

Christine Says…

It was so great to get back out on the trail again! I loved lacing my boots up, feeling the trail crunching under my soles and hearing the sounds of late summer bees buzzing lazily through the wild flowers. I’ve been out of the woods for far too long.

The hike up Hightop is one we’ve done several times now, but we’ve always approached the summit as an out-and-back from the northern end of the trail. It’s shorter and steeper, but gets you to the same viewpoint. I actually enjoyed this southern approach quite a bit more. The grade was very gentle and gradual. This route also gave us the opportunity to visit the Hightop Hut. I always like to stop by the AT shelters and read the trail journals.

This cute little toad was one of the few wildlife specimens we saw along our walk.

The view from the summit of Hightop was beautiful. The sky may have been cloudy, but we could still see ten layers of mountain ridges fading into the distant southwest. We also got a nice view of our “home” mountain – Massanutten.

After the hike, Adam and I started casually tossing around the idea of doing a long backpacking trip next summer. We might try to hike the 101 miles of the Appalachian Trail through Shenandoah National Park sometime next spring. The more we talk about it, the less casual the idea seems. We’ll see…

Trail Notes

Distance – 3.8 miles out-and-back which includes an optional .2 mile trip to an AT shelter
Elevation Change –967 feet
Difficulty – 2. While it is a steady uphill the way up, it’s not too steep of a grade.
Trail Conditions – 4. The trail is well-traveled and well-maintained.
Views –3. At the summit, you do have a chance to get some nice views of Skyline Drive and beyond. We counted a series of 10 ridges of depth at the top.
Waterfalls/streams –0. Non-existent.
Wildlife – .5 Other than a toad, we only saw one doe. There also didn’t appear to be a lot of birds on this trail.
Ease to Navigate – 4. Just stay straight on the trail.
Solitude – 3.5 This trail doesn’t see a lot of traffic, but would be busier during the AT thru-hiking in the summer.

Directions to trailhead:
Park on the east side of Skyline Drive at Smith Roach Gap (around mile marker 68.5). At the end of the parking lot, go on the fire road. The trail takes off about 10 yards on the left.

Mary’s Rock

June 26, 2009August 26, 201551 Comments

This hike to Mary’s Rock starts from Jewell Hollow. The route follows the Appalachian Trail for roughly three miles to Mary’s Rock. After spending some time enjoying the views, simply retrace your steps back to Jewell Hollow for a total hike of roughly six miles. There are other ways to reach the summit, but in our opinion, this route offers the best scenery and the most pleasant trail conditions.

Adam enjoys the view from Mary's Rock. — Adam enjoys the view from Mary’s Rock. Below: Check out this photo from one of our website visitors, Martine Zimmer. She spotted a rock on the Mary’s Rock summit that looked like a bear! It really does!

Adam Says…

Mary’s Rock is a great view hike on the Appalachian Trail. There are many theories on how the summit got its name, but my favorite one is that Francis Thornton’s daughter Mary climbed up to the rock and came back down carrying a bear cub under each arm. Francis Thornton III owned a lot of land to the east of the Blue Ridge Mountains and Thornton Gap is named for him.

The trail is rocky and passes many large boulders.

We have hiked to Mary’s Rock numerous times in the traditional way, from the trailhead at Panorama, but the trail from Jewell Hollow is not one to be missed. In my opinion, this is definitely one of the best hikes to do in the park for scenery. In the fall, you will be able to see great colorful views looking into the western valley below.

The trail is probably roughest during the first .75 miles, but then the rocks tend to give way to easier footing. There are great places to take in the views at .85 miles at the Pinnacle and at another overlook at 2.0 miles. You will also pass a AT hiker hut (Byrd’s Nest #3) about halfway through the trip.

The columbine is starting to bloom all over the park. We saw tons of it along the trail.

Despite the fact that we had to rush to make it back to the car by sunset, we really enjoyed this trail. We saw a bear on the trail going up and probably the same one again coming back. On the way back, I was probably only 75 feet away when the bear crossed our path, but he quickly took off as soon as he realized we were nearby. We also encountered two large bucks on the trail, too. When we saw the first one, we were coming downhill and it appeared that the buck wanted to stand his ground and approach us. So, we yelled at him and shooed him back into the forest.

The Byrd's Nest #3 Shelter is a popular camping spot for backpackers. — The Byrd’s Nest #3 Shelter is a popular camping spot for backpackers. The shelter was day-use only until 2008. It has since been remodeled for overnighters.

There is a geocache at the top of Mary’s Rock requiring you to identify dates on the USGS markers. You will have to climb up on the steep rocks to find them, but if you feel comfortable scrambling on rocks, this isn’t too tough.

Mary’s Rock Geocache titled “At the Rock”

Christine Says…

What can I say… we didn’t do a very good job using the distance scale on our map for this hike! I would have sworn that our PATC map made the hike look like 3.5 – 4 miles total, rather than the 6 miles it actually turned out to be. Normally, that wouldn’t be a big deal, but we didn’t start walking until 5:45 p.m.

This was the first time we’ve accessed Mary’s Rock via the Appalachian Trail. In the past, we’ve always gone by-the-book, and followed the designated Mary’s Rock trail. That trail begins at the Panorama parking lot, and makes its way up the mountain via a series of switchbacks. The Mary’s Rock trail is fine, but it’s really quite boring in way of scenery and views. The hike we did along the AT is longer, but it’s also flatter and tremendously more scenic.

The trail we hiked primarily follows the ridgeline, making one dip down through a saddle between the mountains. The trail is lined with ferns, mountain laurels and rhododendrons. There are many truck-sized boulders along the trail. They kind of look like graveyard headstones for giants. At the .85 mile mark, hikers are treated to an absolutely spectacular view from the Pinnacles, which is the highest point in Rappahannock County. The craggy, boulder-strewn mountains sweep down into the valley, hawks soar below and you get a nice look at Mary’s Rock way off in the distance. As I was enjoying the Pinnacles view, I said to Adam “You know… Mary’s Rock still looks pretty far off. Are you sure we got the distance right? We’re not going to be hiking back in the dark, are we?” He responded “Nah, we’re fine! You need to trust my map reading skills.”

A while later, we passed the Byrd’s Nest #3 Shelter, which was close to the halfway point of the walk up to Mary’s Rock. Time was passing quickly, and I was getting the distinct feeling that the hike was longer than the mileage we estimated. I started to get a bit squirrely at this point. We didn’t have headlamps or a flashlight, and I seriously did not want to get stuck out on the trail after sun down. A lot of the trail’s footing is made up of loose rocky terrain that twists its way through dense mountain laurel thickets. Also, there was a bear lurking in the area – we had heard him crashing through the woods and seen his rounded ears peeking up through the brush.

A back view of Mary's Rock. — A back view of Mary’s Rock.

After passing the shelter, we started almost jogging the trail to make sure we’d have ample daylight for the return trip. We got to the summit around 7:20, just a little over an hour before sunset. Mary’s Rock is an impressive rock outcropping that overlooks both the Shenandoah Valley and a little bit of the eastern Piedmont. In the late afternoon, the light is so warm and lovely on the rock. We enjoyed the vista for a couple minutes, and then promptly began our return trip. Along the way back, we crossed paths with about a half dozen thru-hikers. Many of them were setting up camp at the Byrd’s Nest shelter. We hiked the entire return trip very quickly, and made it back to our car just about ten minutes before the sun set. As we stepped off the trail onto Skyline Drive, I noticed a bear with cubs in the woods on the other side of the road. It was nice to see the bear family as a grand finale for our hike.

We saw this adorable cub and his mother right as we finished the hike.

Under normal, non-rushed circumstances, I’d have to say this is one of the prettiest and most pleasant hikes I’ve ever done in the park. I’d love to go back and re-hike it in the fall. I think the views along the way would offer some amazing places to photograph the fall foliage. And from now on, we’re not hiking anything over three miles in the evening.

Trail Notes

Distance – 6 miles total, out-and-back
(Check out the stats from MapMyHike)*
Elevation Change – About 800 ft.
Difficulty – 2. Nice and mostly level, with only a few very moderate climbs.
Trail Conditions – 3. There are some loose and pointy rocks along several sections of the trail. If you don’t pay attention, this trail can be an ankle-turner. But overall the trail is smooth and well-maintained.
Views – 4. On a clear day – the views are amazing!
Waterfalls/streams – 0. Non-existent
Wildlife – 5. Bears, bucks, chipmunks, rabbits, squirrels and many species of birds. It was a great trail to see animals.
Ease to Navigate – 4. After a very brief walk on the Leading Ridge trail, you follow the AT all the way up to Mary’s Rock. You will not see signs for Mary’s Rock until the cement marker post at the Meadow Springs trail junction.
Solitude – 3. You probably won’t see many hikers between Jewell Hollow and the Meadow Springs Trail junction (with the exception of AT hikers in June). However, the officially designated Mary’s Rock is very popular. It is likely you will see many people in the last mile before reaching Mary’s Rock.

Directions to trailhead: The trail is located on Skyline Drive at mile marker 37. Park at the Jewell Hollow Overlook. Walk 50 yards north on Skyline Drive. You’ll see a cement marker for the Leading Ridge trail on the west side of the drive. Follow the Leading Ridge trail for .1 of a mile to a junction with the AT. Turn right and proceed from there.

* MapMyHike is not necessarily accurate, as the GPS signal fades in and out – but it still provides some fun and interesting information.

The Priest

June 17, 2009August 26, 201550 Comments

The Priest is a wonderful segment hike along the Appalachian Trail in the George Washington National Forest’s Glenwood & Pedlar Ranger District. The northbound trail access may be a little tough for some people to reach (4WD vehicles are strongly recommended), but if you can get there, you’ll be treated to magnificent views of the Tye River Valley.

Adam Says…

This was hike number two for us on a three-hike-day. This was our first trip up The Priest, and it was well-worth the bumpy drive to get to the trail. See the directions to trailhead (below) for some special precautions to take when approaching the trailhead. On route 826, we decided to go a little further than Crabtree Meadows, but didn’t make it all the way up by car to the AT junction. We ended up parking at a campsite and hiking up the fire road for .3 miles. Many people will want to park at Crabtree Meadows, but that will add one mile to the overall distance. Route 826 can be quite steep. In fact, some sections of the road are much steeper than anything you’ll see on the actual trail. We saw a Jeep brigade coming down the steepest section of road, but they looked like seasoned off-roaders.

Route 826 gets progressively rougher. Pictured below: A group of off-roaders make their way down the road.

When you reach the junction (you’ll see painted rocks indicating north/south) of the Appalachian trail, head north (left). You will come across the Priest Wilderness sign and trail map. When I was telling someone earlier about doing this trail today, they were wondering about the origin of the name “The Priest”. The true origin is unknown, but there are a few myths. The first is that it was named after the DuPriest family that lived in the area. The second is that a minister in the area gave some of these nearby mountains religious names. The Cardinal and The Friar are both close to The Priest.

Adam enjoys reading the journal at the AT shelter. Pictured Below: Some of the entries are funny, some divulge a little bit too much information.

We found that the trail was a steady incline, but nothing too strenuous. There was supposed to be a side trail to The Little Priest at .7 miles, but we didn’t see it (but we weren’t looking too hard). At .9 miles, you will see a blue-blazed spur trail to an Appalachian Trail shelter. We definitely recommend taking the extra .2 mile round trip to visit the shelter. These shelters are a great place for all of the AT hikers to get together and have a roof over their head for a night. At most of the shelters, you can find a journal in which the hikers will write about their day or plans, leave notes for other hikers, etc. Since this hike is The Priest, the theme of this logbook was to make a confession. It was a lot of fun to read through the journal entries. These confessions ranged from eating two Poptarts, to taking drugs, to not paying for supplies. If you happen to be hiking the trail in June when most of the AT thru-hikers are passing through, consider bringing along some treats to share. It’s a form of “trail magic” and is always appreciated. (read the guidelines – there are some tips for dispensing good magic on the Appalachian Trail Conservancy Site) We did see a few thru-hikers on the trail today, but we hadn’t thought ahead to bring anything.

Around 1.3 miles, you will see some overhanging rocks to the north that lead to some marvelous views. Take some time to enjoy the views. The summit is only .1 mile further, but there are no views at the summit. We really enjoyed this hike and hope to do this one again as well as the nearby Spy Rock.

Christine Says…

The Priest was probably my favorite of the three hikes we did on this particular day. Discovering a new hike is always a real treat, especially when it turns out to be as nice as this one.

There are actually two different ways to access the summit of The Priest. The southbound ascent is longer and much tougher – it follows the AT along a series of forty switchbacks with just over 3000 feet of elevation gain. It might be the hike with the most elevation gain in all of Virginia. One hiker remarked in the journal that the southbound climb “made him realize that he’s not the man he thought he was.” I guess that’s one way of saying that the hike was a long, tough haul!

We chose the northbound ascent primarily based on our limited time. The hike was listed in our book as strenuous, but I did not find it to be tough at all. The uphill grade was constant, but gentle. Adam and I were easily able to carry on conversation without any huffing and puffing uphill.

The terrain on this hike was so pretty! Along the first part of the trail, forest floor was blanketed with lush ferns. Every now and then, we could catch glimpses through the trees of the valley below. The summit of The Priest is 4,063 feet, so we were pretty high up (by Virginia standards, anyhow).

When we finally gained the ridge, there was a perfect (and obviously popular) campsite. Encircling the area was a collection of huge boulders arranged in an almost Zen-like natural sculpture. Amidst the boulders, there was a fire pit and a large smooth, open place to set up tents. If I were to spend a night along the trail, this would be my ideal kind of campsite.

Shortly after the campsite, the trail split. One arm headed down to the shelter and the other continued along the AT up to the summit of The Priest. This section of trail was lined with mountain laurels and wild azaleas in full bloom. Several places along the trail were covered with a carpet of pink and white flower petals that had been blown from the bushes. It was almost dreamlike to walk through all the flowers. In the tree tops, we heard the constant sweet sound of warblers singing. We even caught a few glimpses of the birds. The ridge is fairly level, so this walking was very easy and pleasant.

Wild Azalea flowers carpeted the forest floor. Pictured below: Many of the azaleas and mountain laurels were still in full bloom.

I had read that the summit of The Priest was a lovely shady place, but didn’t offer much in the way of panoramic views. So, it was much to my surprise and delight to find a worn path through the woods that led to an amazing outcropping of rocks with spectacular views of the entire valley below. Even though it was close to high noon, I loved photographing this spot along the trail. The sky conditions were a photographer’s dream – cerulean blue punctuated with both swishes and puffs of white cloud.

Adam and I sat on this spot for a good, long while. We shared a chocolate donut and some water, watched the hawks soar below and took in the valley view. Afterwards, we made the short walk to the actual summit. There was a fat toad sitting right along the trail at the summit. I like to think of him as the official summit marker.

The hike back down to the car was fun – all downhill – just the way I like it!

Trail Notes

Distance – 2.8 miles out-and-back. We also recommend adding the .2 mile trail down to the AT shelter. If you park at Crabtree Meadows, add a mile on to the trail’s total length.
Elevation Change – 1,000 feet
Difficulty – 2. While the trail does have a moderate elevation change, the uphill is not too tough. If you have to hike up the fire road from Crabtree Meadows to get to the trailhead, that will be much tougher than anything along the AT.
Trail Conditions – 4. Like most of the AT in Virginia, this section is nicely maintained.
Views – 4. Gorgeous views of about 150 degrees of views out into the Tye River Valley
Waterfalls/streams – 0. None, but there is a small spring-fed water source near the shelter.
Wildlife – 1.5. We didn’t see much, but this is wilderness area. There are lots of nice birds for any ornithologists. We saw a cerulean warbler, which has such a gorgeous song.
Ease to Navigate – 4.5. Just stay on the AT.
Solitude –4. Since it is difficult to get to, you may run across some backpackers or AT thru-hikers, but not many others.

Directions to trailhead: The best access to this trail is via VA-826. If you are approaching from I-81, take exit 205 towards Steeles Tavern. Take a left on to Rte. 11 and then a quick right on to VA-56 heading east. Follow this past the Blue Ridge Parkway (near BRP Mile Marker 30) and then take a right shortly after the Fish Hatchery on to VA-826. There is a sign at the entrance that you need to have four-wheel drive to travel on this road. It is a bumpy gravel road where you have to cross several small streams. Once you reach Crabtree Meadows, it is .5 mile before you can reach the AT trailhead to start The Priest trail. Many cars should be able to get up to Crabtree Meadows, but the last .5 mile should be taken cautiously and done only if you have a confident driver and appropriate vehicle.

Hawksbill Summit Loop

June 8, 2009April 29, 202239 Comments

The Hawksbill Summit is a fairly easy, 2.9 mile trail that takes you to the highest peak of Shenandoah National Park at 4,049 feet.

This is the first of the four summit views you'll come to along the Hawksbill Loop Trail. — This is the first of the four summit views you’ll come to along the Hawksbill Loop Trail. Pictured below (left to right): The third viewpoint – the hack box for the falcon chicks is along this rock shelf; The CCC constructed summit; Adam climbing around the rock jumble at the summit.

Adam Says…

We really had one of those almost perfect days in Shenandoah National Park. We made it up to the park before 7AM. There was a lot of fog on the mountains that made for tough visibility, so we decided to grab breakfast at Skyland Resort before setting out on our hike. While we were eating breakfast, our waitress pointed out a black bear right outside the dining room window. It stayed out there for several minutes while people photographed it (they got really close – within 10-15 feet of the bear). While Christine made an attempt to grab her camera from the car for her own photo opportunity (which she missed), I noticed the AT thru-hiker we met on the Loft Mountain Loop had just sat down to dive into a hearty breakfast. I talked to him about how we were thinking about him braving the thunderstorms the last few days. He said that the Tuesday night storms had indeed been brutal.

After breakfast, we drove south from Skyland to start our hike on Hawksbill Summit. The posted trail board listed an out-and-back hike of 1.7 miles and a loop hike of 2.8 miles. We decided to do the loop and were very glad that we did!

Peregrine Falcons are such fast flyers. Adam took this shot and felt lucky to have even part of the bird, in-focus and in the frame. — Hawksbill Mountain is a great place to watch birds of prey. While I was photographing the scenery, Adam took this shot of a bird soaring overhead. He felt pretty lucky to have even part of the bird, in-focus and in the frame. He sometimes feels overwhelmed by all the controls on the dSLR, but I think he does a great job whenever he takes photos.

At around the half mile mark, we heard some screeching up ahead and above. We came up to the first of three talus slopes and sure enough there were a pair of peregrine falcons swooping around. We tried to get some pictures of them flying, but they swooped by way too quickly for the camera to lock focus. When we came to the second talus slope, one of the falcons had landed about 15 feet in front of me, gave me a quick cry, and darted off at eye level from us. We’ve never had an opportunity to see these birds up close. We usually vacation in Acadia National Park every summer. The park’s Precipice Trail is a great place to view falcons; however, this trail is closed off during much of the summer for falcon nesting and we have had to resort to viewing them through binoculars.

The Byrd's Nest #2 Shelter is available for day use only. It's a three-sided structure. — The Byrd’s Nest #2 Shelter is available for day use only. It’s a three-sided structure.

Once we arrived at the Byrd’s Nest Day Shelter near the summit, we ran into a SNP Volunteer who has been monitoring falcon activity in the area. Shenandoah National Park has been working with the College of William & Mary’s Center for Conservation Biology to help reintroduce these birds to the park ecosystem. It was fascinating to learn about these birds of prey. He pointed out the cliff-side hack box that currently houses six falcon chicks. Students find falcons nesting around Williamsburg and Norfolk, grab the babies when they’re a few weeks old and deliver them to SNP for rehoming.

The volunteer feeds the falcon chicks twice per day, giving the birds quail through a slot door in the hack box. The chicks never actually see the person. The goal is to keep the chicks completely unaware of the human intervention.

The feeder told us a funny story about his time on the mountainside. He was on his way to feed the birds that morning when he was charged by a deer. He reached for a slingshot he had in his pocket, but the deer was too close. He ended up using the slingshot as a club and thumping the doe lightly on the head. It just stared at him like he was crazy. He realized as he looked down that he had almost stepped on her newborn fawn.

The volunteer told us that there was a belief that the peregrine falcon pair that we saw was moving over from their established nest site on Old Rag. They have been observing the Old Rag falcons for a while, and are hoping they stay put. If the Old Rag falcons relocate to Hawksbill, the hack box holding the chicks will have to be moved to a new location. The volunteer was trying to read numbers on the bands of the falcons swooping by to see if he could identify them as the same pair from Old Rag.

After a bit more chatting, we left the volunteer and proceeded on to the summit. When we came back to the shelter, we noticed that there were now three falcons swooping around near the summit. We found the volunteer and told him. He told us that seeing the three falcons might help prove that these birds might not be the pair from Old Rag. We felt proud to have been able to provide some useful information for their research.

Christine Says…

It’s kind of ironic, but Adam really didn’t want to go to the park at all on this particular morning. He thought the trails would be sloppy-muddy from all the rain. Also, he was longing for a morning of sleeping in, followed by loafing on the couch and possibly even some video games. But, being the insanely cruel morning person I am, I dragged him out of bed and told him that I wanted to hike Hawksbill. After all was said and done, he ended up declaring this to be “one of our best days in the park ever!”

At the trailhead, Adam lobbied for the shorter out-and-back, but I really wanted to do the longer loop. It’s more scenic and there are many more opportunities to see wildlife along the way. Besides, the out and back is a tough, boring, uphill climb – straight up the side of Hawksbill Mountain. You don’t see anything special – you just climb.

I bet this magnificent buck gets a lot of female attention in the fall. The photo below is another of the bucks from the group.

A quarter mile into the hike, we saw three impressive bucks. Even this early in the season, these guys were already displaying large, velvety racks of antlers. During the summer months, it’s not uncommon to see groups of big bucks hanging out in mini-herds like this. I think they’re planning strategies on how to get the girls in the fall. 🙂 They were completely indifferent to our presence, so we stayed and watched them for a few moments. I wish it hadn’t been so dark in the forest. I would have loved to get some better photos of these handsome guys.

This is the talus slope where we first spotted the peregrine falcons.

Seeing the falcons near the talus slopes was simply amazing. I’ve never seen peregrines so close in the wild before. They’re truly expert aerial acrobats. I also really liked talking to the naturalist at the summit. No matter how much time I spend in the park, I still feel like I see and learn new things on every visit.

Our view at the CCC-established summit was largely obscured by clouds and fog, but it was still a beautiful, breezy day. Hawksbill gives full views in every direction. You get a nice look at Skyline Drive winding its way through the forest and a wonderful, distant view of magnificent Old Rag Mountain. Hawksbill Mountain actually has four excellent viewpoints along the summit. You only see two on the out and back hike. Typically you can see all four on the loop hike, but on this particular day one viewpoint was closed off for the falcons.

Although you can't tell in the photo, the trail back down Hawksbill Mountain is quite steep. — Although it’s relatively level here, the trail back down Hawksbill Mountain is quite steep.

The hike back down is pretty steep, but the trail is well-maintained and covered with gravel. My knees always ache climbing down Hawksbill – there are no switchbacks to gentle the grade. It’s straight down the mountainside. Hikers should be careful to follow the correct trail back down the mountain! There are trails leading back to Upper Hawksbill and Lower Hawksbill parking lots. There is also a fire road. If you don’t pay attention to the cement marking posts, you may end up on the wrong trail and have an extra mile or so of hiking to do along Skyline Drive to make it back to your car. We saw a couple who had made that exact mistake walking along the road when we finished our hike. They didn’t look too happy.

Trail Notes

Distance – 2.9 mile loop. A 1.7 mile strenuous out-and-back is one option, but the loop is recommended for it’s scenic beauty and wildlife viewing potential.
Elevation Change – 800 ft
Difficulty – 1.5. If you do the loop. The out and back may be shorter, but it’s more strenuous.
Trail Conditions – 4. The AT portion is well-maintained. The trail down from the summit is covered with small gravel.
Views – 4. The view from the summit is impressive on a clear day.
Waterfalls/streams – 0. No streams on this trail.
Wildlife – 4. We did hit some great luck this day, but we saw several deer including three bucks and you have some decent chances of spotting peregrine falcons in the summer.
Ease to Navigate – 3. There are a couple turns, but the directions are well-marked on cement posts. Pay attention on your way back down the mountain. There are several descents to choose from.
Solitude – 2. The hike is fairly popular and featured often with SNP handouts, but we never seem to run into many people up there. I hear the summit gets very crowded on pleasant weekend afternoons.

Directions to trailhead:

Park at the Hawksbill Gap parking lot which is located around mile marker 45.6 in the Central Section of Skyline Drive. The trail can be done as an out-and-back hike taking a steep trail to the summit, but we recommend that instead of going straight up to the summit, take the spur trail to the Appalachian Trail and follow the signs to the Hawksbill Summit.

Loft Mountain Loop

June 3, 2009March 21, 20151 Comment

The Loft Mountain Loop is an easy, 2.7 mile trail that makes use of a fire road, the Appalachian Trail and the Frazier Discovery Trail. It takes you past one of Shenandoah National Park’s finest views.

Christine Says…

Adam and I love visiting the park on weeknights after we get off work. The traffic is usually light and the animals tend to be more active. On Tuesday night, we saw many deer, a timber rattlesnake, a couple rabbits, a bear with three cubs and only a handful of human beings. If you live close to the park, weekday evenings are the perfect time for a quick hiking escape – especially on June nights when twilight lingers until 9:00 p.m.

On this particular night, we chose to hike the Loft Mountain Loop, which is located in the south district of the park. Generally, fewer people visit the south end of the park than the other two districts (north and central), so it always feels quiet and peaceful. I have so many fond memories of camping at Loft Mountain as a child. We had a rickety, second-hand, pop-up camper. I remember waking up on cold mountain mornings to the smell of bacon cooking over the campfire and going to sleep at night after roasting marshmallows and listening to my dad’s goofy “ghost stories”. Ah… such nostalgia!

The hike starts out on a fire road almost directly across Skyline Drive from the Patterson Ridge Trail. The hike goes uphill for a short distance until you reach the Ivy Creek Hut (used by the Potomac Appalachian Trail Club for maintenance activities) and the Ivy Creek Spring. Pass through the site and follow the blue blazes uphill for a couple hundred yards to the junction with the Appalachian Trail. The stretch along the AT climbs steadily uphill for about a mile. It eventually levels out on the ridge of Loft Mountain. At this point the terrain opens up – the trees are further apart and the trail is grassy and almost meadow-like. Adam kept getting ticks on him (FIVE!), but I didn’t get any at all.

The PATC maintenance cabin — The Ivy Creek Hut is used by the PATC.

Your first nice view will come on a small rock outcropping facing northeast, but the big payoff for this hike comes at the 1.5 mile mark. The southwest facing summit of Loft Mountain is awesome – definitely one of the park’s most spectacular views.

We reached the vantage point in time to see the building storm clouds to the west. We shared the summit with an Appalachian Trail thru-hiker camping nearby. He was from Boston and had been on the trail since March. He told us he had covered 22 miles that day and was looking forward to spending an upcoming night off the trail at the Big Meadows Lodge. He remarked that he was thinking hard about a big cheeseburger and a cold beer.

I couldn’t help but think of the guy later on in the evening when we were back in our car, watching the Loft Mountain area being pummeled with lightning and torrential downpours. I love hearing trail stories from thru-hikers, but I don’t think long distance backpacking is for me.

We stayed on the summit for about fifteen minutes, and then quickly made our way down the Frazier Discover Trail and back to our car.

Adam Says…

This is a trail that we both enjoy quite a bit. It’s not too tough and has some nice views to both the east and west, which is not common for Skyline Drive. If you do this hike early in the morning or late in the evening, you should be able to see a good view for a sunrise or sunset. There are also a couple of possible campsites along this stretch of trail and a developed campground along Skyline Drive at Loft Mountain.

The trail was lined with little flowers.

It was very interesting to talk to the AT hiker. June is the month when most of the northbound thru-hikers are passing through Virginia. If you have a chance, it’s worth talking to some of these people about their experiences. Most of them use trail names instead of real names during the hike. The one we talked to this night was very friendly and talkative. He said that his toughest leg so far was in the Smoky Mountains, but this was largely due to the snow that was still there. He was enjoying his first sunset view in SNP. It’s quite an accomplishment to be able to hike the entire AT. I would love to be able to have the chance to do this some day.

The rock cliff below is an impressive sight to find along the Frazier Discovery Trail.

This giant rock wall can be found on the descent along the Frasier Discovery Trail — This giant rock wall can be found on the descent along the Frazier Discovery Trail

Trail Notes

Distance – 2.7 miles
Elevation Change – 600 ft
Difficulty – 1.5. Other than a mile of climbing along the fire road and the Appalachian Trail, the hike is either level or downhill.
Trail Conditions – 4.5. The trail is extremely well-maintained.
Views – 4. The view from the Loft Mountain summit is really spectacular.
Waterfalls/streams – 0. No streams on this trail. There is a spring near the PATC maintenance cabin.
Wildlife – 2. We saw deer and a rabbit.
Ease to Navigate – 4. There are a couple turns, but the directions are well-marked on cement posts.
Solitude – 3. The hike is short and near one of Shenandoah’s campgrounds. So, on busy weekends, expect to see a fair number of people. We hiked it on a weeknight in June and came across a pair of backcountry campers and an AT thru-hiker.

Directions to trailhead:

Park at the Loft Mountain Wayside at Skyline Drive mile marker 79.5. Walk north along the drive for a 150 yard and then cross the drive to pick up the fire road. The trailhead is almost directly across the drive from the Patterson Ridge trail.

Rose River Loop

May 16, 2009May 25, 201749 Comments

The Rose River Loop is one of Shenandoah National Park’s most beautiful hikes for streams and waterfalls. Over the course of 3.7 miles, you’ll hike along the Rose River, the Hog Camp Branch, and finally up the Rose River fire road.

A new log is resting on the crest of the falls — Two large fallen trees obscure Rose River falls.

Adam Says…

This hike is one of our most-repeated hikes in Shenandoah National Park. It has some great views of running water throughout the trail. This isn’t the most secluded trail since it connects to Dark Hollow Falls. However, you should normally only come across a few other people on this trail. There are some good places to do some trout-fishing along the river. The man pictured a few photos down had caught a 8.5 inch trout the day before at the same spot.

The hike starts off at the parking area just north of the Fishers Gap Overlook. Cross the road and follow the Skyland-Big Meadows Horse Trail for .5 mile. There is a steady downhill grade, but it’s not too steep. At .5 miles, you’ll reach the junction of the Horse Trail and the Rose River Trail. Go right and follow the Rose River Trail, continuing downhill. Once you reach the bottom of the trail in about a mile, you’ll hear the water. The trail continues alongside the stream for a ways. You will reach Rose River falls at 1.3 miles. They are impressive, but more beauty awaits along the trail. For fans of long-exposure photography, this is a paradise.

The trail will pass an old copper mine at 1.8 miles. Some people like to explore the old mine, but we don’t think there is anything worth seeing there.

For the next mile, the trail closely follows the stream. It is very rocky and can be icy or muddy depending on the weather. There are tons of small waterfalls, slides, and plunge pools to explore.

At 2.7 miles, you will reach the footbridge at the bottom of Dark Hollow Falls. Turn right, cross the bridge, and follow the Rose River Fire Road uphill. At 3.3 miles, you will pass the Cave Cemetery on the right. At 3.7 miles, you will arrive back at Skyline Drive and your vehicle.

You can see from some of Christine’s pictures that there is really a lot of nice water to see on this trail. I highly recommend doing this if you have a day or two in the park.

Some graves date back to the Civil War. — Some graves (not this one) in the Cave Family Cemetery date back to the Civil War.

As I usually like to comment, there is a geocache located here. For those that are unaware, physical geocaches are not allowed in National Parks. However, there is a small cemetery located off of the fire road that is considered private land and not owned by the Park Service. The cemetery was used by the people who used to live in the mountain hollows before the government took their land for the park in the early 1900’s. The Cave family gave permission for a geocache to be placed here called Viking Treasure Cave. ETA: This cache has since been removed from the park (September 2010)

Christine Says…

When we started down the Rose River trail, I couldn’t help but skeptically watch the blue sky peeking between openings in the trees above. The local weatherman had forecast a cloudy morning, but as we hiked along the sun began sending down rays and making a dappled pattern across the forest floor. It was lovely to look at, but was definitely not the kind of light I was hoping to have for the stream and waterfall photos I wanted take. You see, the Rose River Loop is one of the very best hikes in Shenandoah for folks who enjoy photographing running water. It’s also the place where my brother proposed to his now wife. They were engaged on a bitter cold New Year’s Eve camping trip somewhere along the Rose River.

Even though the light made photography a challenge today, I found several spots to shoot along the Rose River. We had to bushwhack off the trail a couple times, and all I could think about were ticks. I don’t think I’ve recovered from our walk down the Dry Run Falls fire road yet.

One bushwhack in particular was especially steep, slick and muddy. As luck would have it, it also offered the prettiest of all the little cascades along the walk. When I looked down the ravine, for some reason my inner girly-girl came out. I announced to Adam that I wasn’t going down there no matter what. He said “Yes, you are!” and took my camera away and starting climbing down without me. I was left with no choice but to follow. I got really muddy and touched a gross centipede-like creature. I’ll never like bugs!

We stopped at Rose River Falls for a few shots. For the past few years, there has been a huge fallen tree lying across the waterfall. It’s still there, but now there is a new downed tree stuck at the crest of the waterfall. Both trees are way too big to move, and will likely be there for years to come.

We paused at a couple other places along the Hog Camp Branch for photos, but there was another photographer who was consistently about ten minutes ahead of us on the hike. Each time we got to a spot I planned on photographing, he was already there. He looked pretty serious getting his shots. At one spot, he even donned chest high waders and water shoes so that he could get to the middle of the stream for an ideal composition. I skipped a lot of my favorite photo spots along the Hog Camp because I always feel a bit rude stepping into somebody’s shooting space.

I had my tripod all set up when the fisherman jumped into my scene — Speaking of stepping into someone’s shooting space… I had my tripod all set up when this fisherman dropped into my scene. Oh well 🙂

We finished the loop hike on the Rose River fire road. The last mile on the road is always my least favorite part of the hike. The fire road is easy walking, but yawn… it’s a bit on the boring side. Despite the dull last leg, the Rose River loop is a must-do hike for anyone visiting Shenandoah.

I'm so lucky that Adam routinely offers to carry all my photography gear. — I’m so lucky that Adam routinely offers to carry all my photography gear.

Trail Notes

Distance – 3.7 miles loop trail
(Check out the stats from Map My Hike)*
Elevation Change – Around 900 feet
Difficulty – 2. Some downhill and uphill, but it’s not too bad.
Trail Conditions – 3.5. There are some areas along the river that are more like a 2, but there are some areas that where it is more like a 5. Footing is tricky around the climb up after the red bridge.
Views – 0. Just waterfall and stream views.
Waterfalls/streams – 4.5. Some of the most continuous views of water that allow for some great water photography.
Wildlife – 1. Some birds and chipmunks, but not much else here.
Ease to Navigate – 5. Trail is well-marked and there aren’t any spurs until you get back to the fire road.
Solitude – 3. Not the best on solitude, but you won’t run into a ton of people.

Download a trail map

Directions to trailhead: The trail is located on Skyline Drive. Park at the Fisher’s Gap Overlook (at mile marker 49.4 miles), cross the road and pick up the trail. The Rose River Loop starts to the left of the fire road. You will see a cement marker.

McAfee Knob

May 5, 2009December 4, 201716 Comments

IMPORTANT: Please read these important regulations and helpful tips before hiking in this area

McAfee Knob is an 8.3 mile hike along the Appalachian Trail near Roanoke. The summit offers truly magnificent views of the Catawba valley below. On a clear day, you can also get great views of the Peaks of Otter (Sharp Top and Flat Top) along the Blue Ridge Parkway.

McAfee Knob's View of the Catawba Valley — McAfee Knob’s View of the Catawba Valley

Christine says…

We picked a perfect day in April to hike McAfee Knob. The trees were still mostly bare of leaves, but the skies were crystal clear and completely free of the milky haze that dominates the Virginia summer. We got to the trailhead right at 9:00 a.m. and the parking lot on 311 was already about halfway full. From what I’ve been told, this trail rivals Old Rag in popularity for folks in the southern part of the Shenandoah Valley.

The trail is meticulously maintained. I believe the Roanoke Appalachian Trail Club and local Boy Scouts do most of the trail work. There are many wooden bridges and walkways in the first two miles of the trail that were built as Eagle Scout projects. I think the hike, despite its eight+ mile length, qualifies as a solidly moderate hike. It’s not steep and the trail is smooth and pleasant. It feels a lot shorter than eight miles.

The first few miles of the hike make their way through beautiful, classic Virginia mountains. The trees are a mix of hardwoods and pines that smell delicious as they warm in the sun. There are also expansive stands of mountain laurel along the way. I’m certain they’re a site to behold when they bloom in June.

The view finally opens up when you complete the toughest part of the climb and walk along the ridge of the mountain. The gnats were something else on the day we hiked. If we so much as paused for a few seconds, the bugs swarmed us like mad. The walk along the ridge is brief and leads you past a very cool series of rock formations nicknamed the Devil’s Kitchen. After walking past the giant boulders, you come to a short spur trail to McAfee knob.

The hike is an out-and-back, so the return trip simply retraces your steps.

I think this is a hike I’ll return to time and again. I thought it was one of the most spectacular views I’ve seen in the state.

Adam says…

This was a truly wonderful hike. The views are spectacular and are likely the best views I can remember in Virginia. I grew up in Lynchburg, VA and we used to always hike up Sharp Top at the Peaks of Otter on the Blue Ridge Parkway. I think the views here are better than Sharp Top and well worth the mileage. You can continue the trek on to Tinker Cliffs, but that adds several miles onto the trek and would work better as an overnight backpack trip. The views of the ridgeline and Tinker Cliffs are breathtaking. There is a lot of space at the top to chill out on some rocks and eat a snack. You will often see pictures like the one below when you see pictures for the Appalachian Trail.

I do a lot of geocaching and there is a geocache here if you approach it from the fire road and not the hike on the AT. However, I left my notes in the car, so I just tried to go from my memory and GPS. I tried hiking off the trail and up the mountainside and it took away all my energy.

This View of McAfee is an Appalachian Trail Icon — This View of McAfee Knob is an Appalachian Trail Icon

Trail Notes

Distance – 8.3 miles round-trip
Elevation Change – 1,740 feet
Difficulty – 4. The trail is fairly easy walking, but because the length, we scored it a 4.
Trail Conditions – 5. The trail is well maintained.
Views – 5. One of the finest views in Virginia.
Waterfalls/streams – 0.
Wildlife – 2. We saw a lot of Eastern Fence Lizards, but nothing else.
Ease to Navigate – 5. It would be nearly impossible to get lost.
Solitude – 1. The trail is exceedingly popular. Parking can be a challenge if you arrive mid-day.

Special regulations for this area:

Maximum group size, day hikes: 25
Maximum group size, backpacking/camping: 10
No alcohol
Dogs must be kept on leash at all times
No camping or campfires outside of seven designated areas (north of Va 624/Newport Rd, the only legal campsites are Johns Spring Shelter, Catawba Shelter and campsites, Pig Farm campsite, Campbell Shelter and Lambert’s Meadow Shelter and campsites)
No camping or campfires on McAfee Knob or Tinker Cliffs

Directions to trailhead:

Take I-81 to exit 141. Follow signs to VA-311. The parking lot is located about 5.5 miles down 311. Park ONLY in the designated lot. Roadside parking is prohibited and will result in towing.

Strickler Knob – via Scothorn Gap

May 5, 2009August 25, 201511 Comments

The Strickler Knob hike is a beautiful, 5.5 mile hike in the Lee Ranger District of George Washington National Forest. It offers fabulous views of the Page Valley and a short, but fun, rock scramble.

View from Strickler — The view of New Market Gap from Strickler Knob is amazing! Below: Park at Scothorn Gap; Adam crossing Passage Creek; Trail markers.

Adam says…

This is a great hike that is still not very well known. There are some great views at the top and a mini rock scramble that is good preparation for anyone who wants a little practice before tackling Old Rag. I wouldn’t recommend this hike for small children or dogs due to the rock scramble.

The hike can be a little tricky to navigate, so I have provided some clear directions for following the trail.

After parking at Scothorn Gap, you’ll immediately wade or rock hop across Passage Creek. The hike starts off on a fire road. The way starts to get fairly steep at .4 miles, but levels off again at .65 miles. At .8 miles, the hike gets steep again, but levels at .95 miles. This is the hardest part of the hike, so once that is done, the elevation changes are small. At 1.07 miles, you will see a nice campsite for anyone that wants to stay overnight. At this point, you will see an arrow pointing to the right, where you will pick up the trail again. The trail continues SSE from the campsite and you will be leaving the fire road for a hike through the woods. At 1.3 miles, you will come to a junction sign. Head straight on to the orange-blazed Massanutten trail.

At 1.94 miles you will come to the junction with the Strickler Knob trail to the right. This trail was built and opened in 2006 by some anonymous trailblazers. The blazes for this trail are marked as pink on rocks and typically red or purple rectangles on trees. This trail is fairly rocky, so be careful not to turn your ankles. Around 2.5 miles, you will see gorgeous views of the Shenandoah River and the Blue Ridge Mountains to the east. To the west, you will see more of the Shenandoah valley and the Appalachian Mountains. At 2.67 miles, you will reach a rock scramble for about one tenth of a mile until you reach the summit. This is a great spot to have 360 degree views of the area around you. Tied to a tree, you will also see a logbook that someone placed for people to journal about their hike. It’s definitely a good read to those that are interested.

For those that are interested, I also placed a geocache up there. The direct link for the geocache can be found at:

Strickler Knob Cache

Rock Formation — The hike to Strickler Knob has lots of interesting rock formations to scramble over! Below: One of the more interesting formations; Adam walks the mountain’s spine; Scrambling up the pinkish-purple blazed Strickler Trail; More rock formations.

Christine says…

We hiked the Strickler Knob trail on the recommendation of a friend of mine from Flickr. He said it was a fun hike with excellent views. He wasn’t kidding!

We walked the trail on a bitter, windy winter day shortly before the forest road closed for the season. The section of road that leads to the trailhead is periodically closed in the winter to prevent damage to the road surface. (You can always check the status of roads and trails in the George Washington National Forest on their website) The hike was fairly easy and passed through the beautiful woods of Massanutten Mountain. The Strickler Knob trail branches off the main trail and follows a rocky ridgeline over to the knob. I love scrambling on rocks, so the last portion of the trail was my favorite part.

When we reached the knob, the view was amazing. We got there mid-day, so it wasn’t a great time for photography. I’d like to hike it again in the afternoon sometime. I think the late day light would be prettier on the rocks and over the valley below.

While Adam hid his geocache, I spent some time reading the trail journal at the summit. It was entertaining, and I even came across the name of an old co-worker in the book. I also remember it being super windy at the summit. It was so bad, my bag of trailmix blew over and (sadly) sent chocolate covered peanuts spilling all over the rocks. I hate it when I lose chocolate like that. I’m sure some stupid crow enjoyed it though.

Trail Notes

Distance – 5.5 miles round-trip
Elevation Change – 1,600 feet
Difficulty – 3. There is some moderate climbing along the route. The scramble might be tough/scary for some.
Trail Conditions – 3. Most of the trail is nicely graded and well maintained. But once you turn onto the Strickler Knob trail it’s rocky and requires some scrambling.
Views – 4. Once you reach the top you have some great views.
Waterfalls/streams – 1. Just a small stream to cross at the beginning.
Wildlife – 2. Hunters like this area, so there must be wildlife (although we didn’t see any.) During hunting season, make sure you’re wearing bright colors and making noise. A co-worker who was running up here also got attacked by a wild goat here.
Ease to Navigate – 3. The blazes can be a little tricky to follow on the pink blazed Strickler Knob trail. Otherwise, the trail is pretty straightforward.
Solitude – 2. Since 2009, this trail has become increasingly popular. We revised the solitude rating from 4.5 down to 2 in 2014.

Directions to trailhead:

Reach the trailhead by turning on to Crisman Hollow Road (FD 274) off of 211 near Luray. Continue on this road for a few miles and park at the Scothorn Gap trail parking.

Once you have parked follow Orange Blazes on Scothorn Gap trail. Follow trail directions above.