Tag: medium hike

Doyles River-Jones Run

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The Doyles River-Jones Run loop is a nice six-mile hike that takes you past three sizable waterfalls and a lot of beautiful stream scenery.

Lower Doyles River Falls didn't have much water, but was surrounded by foliage.
There are three significant waterfalls along the Doyles River – Jones Run trail.

Christine Says…

Although, the wind, rain and (yes!) snow stripped the fall color from Shenandoah rather early this year, Adam and I still wanted to get out and hike on at least one glorious, sunny autumn day.  There was still a little bit of colorful foliage hanging on in the south district of Shenandoah National Park, so we decided to hike the Doyles River- Jones Run loop on Sunday morning.

Park at the Brown Gap lot
Parking is available at Brown Gap. Pictured Below: The fire road leading down from the parking lot is one of the prettiest in the park; the Shenandoah area has tons of Civil War history. We passed the grave of confederate solder, William Howard, along the way.

We started the hike along the Brown Gap fire road. William Howard, a confederate soldier, is buried along the Brown Gap fire road.

We got to the trailhead at Brown Gap right as the sun was coming up.  It was f-f-freezing and windy.  I carelessly left my hat and gloves at home, so I flipped up the collar of my fleece and retracted my hands into my sleeves.  We set out down the Brown Gap fire road, which is one of Shenandoah’s prettier fire roads.  It’s also where I used to ride my horse, “Friday”, whenever we trailed to the park.  The morning sun was filtering through the golden leaves, and soon the activity of walking warmed me up enough that I didn’t miss my gloves at all.  The fire road was really muddy, so I took that as a good sign that there would be plenty of water flowing in the three waterfalls we’d be passing along the route.

In fact, I was so sure that the waterfalls would be impressive, that I carried all the “big guns” in my photography arsenal – two camera bodies, three lenses, a shutter remote, a collection of neutral density and polarizing filters, extra batteries, memory card and my tripod (the one that feels like it weighs close to 100 pounds when I carry it on long hikes).  I also brought my new tripod bag (by Kinesis) that allows me to carry the tripod backpack style – evenly centering the weight on my back.  The sling style carrier I’ve been using for the past few years twists my neck and shoulders, so I try not to carry it on long hikes.  The new bag was really nice, but it perfectly lined up the camera mount lock lever with my butt.   Every step I took, the lever poked me quite rudely.  I ended up giving the tripod to Adam.  He’s taller, so he escaped the constant prodding.  I ended up carrying the bag with the rest of the gear.  It was much heavier, but still more comfortable.

When we reached the bridge at the junction of the fire road and the Doyles River trail, I groaned in dismay at the dry stream before us.  We walked along the river, or at least where the river should have been for another .3 miles to get to the base of Upper Doyles River Falls.  Normally, there are pretty little cascades leading down to the main double-terraced waterfall.  This time the waterfall was barely a trickle.  We ate our breakfast at the base of “Disappointment Falls” and headed on to the lower falls.

The water is Upper Doyles Falls was low - compare January 2009 to October 2009.
The photo above shows Upper Doyles Falls is October 2009 (left) compared to January 2009 (right).

Surprisingly, the lower falls were running quite a bit more than the upper falls.  I think narrower chasm through the rocks allows the second falls to hold onto more water flow.  The second falls is thin and almost chute-like.   Even though the second waterfall had more water, it still wasn’t anything spectacular.  When you’re a photographer hiking with 40+ pounds of gear and realizing the shots you had planned aren’t going to happen, the gear instantly feels twice as heavy.  I think this is the point that I started to feel like Atlas with the world resting on my shoulders.  🙂

Adam perches on a rock along lower Doyles River Falls.
Lower Doyles Falls was a bit nicer than the upper falls.

Leaving the lower falls, the trail became incredibly beautiful.  It followed a babbling brook through near-peak foliage.  The trees were a spectacular mix of gold, orange and red – all set off by the brilliant blue sky above.   This was, without a doubt, my favorite section of the trail.

So far, the hike had been relatively easy – just gentle up-and-down grades along the stream.  At the junction of the Jones Run Trail, the real work started.  In just under 2 miles, we picked up most of the elevation gain on the whole hike.  It was steep, hard climbing to reach Jones Run Falls.

The trees above displayed beautiful fall colors
The foliage along the Jones Run Trail was spectacular. Pictured Below:  Jones Run and Jones Run Falls.

Jones Run is a beautiful stream The water was low in Jones Run Falls

The waterfall on Jones Run was running low, but it was still really pretty.  From the waterfall back up to Skyline Drive, the grade of the trail moderates a bit.  It’s still a lot of uphill mixed with periods of flat terrain.  Eventually, you reach the junction with the Appalachian trail and follow it north for a little over a mile back to the Brown’s Gap parking lot.  This section of the AT follows closely to the road, so you constantly hear cars and smell exhaust.  The walk along this section is easy, but rather uneventful.

Overall, I think this was a great hike.  I’m so glad we had a chance to be outdoors on a beautiful fall day, but I wish the waterfalls had been nicer.  We’ll have to try hiking it again in the spring after heavier, more sustained rains.

Adam Says…

While we’ve hiked Doyles River a number of times, this was the first time that we had made a loop of the hike and added Jones Run.   When we have done this before, we parked at the Doyles River parking lot around mile marker 81.  We would normally hike down to both of the falls and then head back.

On this hike, we parked around mile marker 83 at the Brown Gap lot.  We crossed the road and headed down the Brown Gap fire road.  At about .4 miles, you see a short path leading up to the gravesite pictured above.  In about 1.7 miles you will reach the junction with the Doyles River Trail.  Take a right on this trail.   After about two tenths of a mile, you will reach the Upper Doyles River Falls.  There is a short spur path to lead down to the base of the falls.  Once you rejoin the trail, you will then see the Lower Doyles River Falls after a tenth of the mile.  Don’t try to blaze down off the trail to reach the falls.  The trail loops around to bring you closer to the falls.  When you reach near the base of the falls, there is a short, treacherous climb down to the base of these falls.  When you join back to the trail, continue south down the Doyles River Trail.  You will reach the Junction with the Jones Run Trail in about .6 miles from leaving the Lower Doyles River Falls.  You begin your hike up to the Jones Run Falls and will reach them about .7 miles on this trail.  After the falls, you will have a 1.2 mile hike up to the Jones Run Parking lot.  Before you enter the parking lot, there will be a junction with the Appalachian Trail.  Take a right on the AT, heading north until you reach the Brown Gap parking lot.  The AT portion is about 1.3 miles back to your car, leading you to this overall hike of 6 miles.

The woods on the Doyles River - Jones Run trail were gold and red.
The woods were very colorful at the lower elevations. Pictured Below: One downed tree we came across was so large that Adam could climb inside.

This fallen tree was big enough for Adam to crawl into.

The hike is not that long being only six miles, but there is a lot of elevation gain from the base of the Doyles River Trail, leading up to the Jones Run Parking lot.  Christine felt that it may be better to do this hike in reverse, but based on contours, I think either hike has a tough trip back at the end.

The waterfalls along the way on normal days are really some of the nicer waterfalls in Shenandoah National Park.   The water flow didn’t allow us to see them at their best today, but we enjoyed them nonetheless.  The Upper Doyles River Falls stands at 28 feet;  the Lower Doyles River Falls plummets 63 feet.; the Jones Run Falls plunges 42 feet.  If you’re looking for a hike to see multiple falls, this is the best one to do in Shenandoah.

The morning light made the trees glow golden.
More golden foliage along the trail.

On our way back to the car on the AT, we ran into a woman doing the trail in the opposite way.  She had two pugs with her on the hike, named Titan and Zoot.  They were eager to greet us, since they must have known we had three pugs of our own.  They were very energetic to begin their hike to the falls, but we wondered how they fared on the steep way back.  We wish we had taken some pictures of these boys, because they looked like they were ready for a great adventure that day.

Cars waiting to get into Shenandoah National Park
There was a very long line of cars waiting to get into Shenandoah National Park

The foliage was just slightly after peak today.  We decided to exit the south entrance of the park to reward ourselves with some frozen treats from Sonic.  On our way out, we saw the longest line of cars we’ve ever witnessed trying to enter the park at the south gate.  Cars were at a stand-still all the way down to the interstate.  Three rangers were walking down the line, handing out information to make the fee stations handle things quickly.  I guess everyone felt that it would be a nice day to see color in the park and hopefully they weren’t too disappointed in the color.

Trail Notes

  • Distance – 6 miles – loop.
  • Elevation Change –1875 feet
  • Difficulty – 4. The climb up from the bottom of Jones Run is tough!
  • Trail Conditions – 3.5 The trail is well-maintained and traveled.
  • Views –0. You might get a few glimpses of vistas through the woods along the fire road.
  • Waterfalls/streams –4. The waterfalls and streams along this trail are beautiful, especially when there is plenty of rain.
  • Wildlife – 1. Just a couple deer.
  • Ease to Navigate – 4. Trails are well marked and easy to follow.
  • Solitude – 3. You will likely see several other groups of hikers along the way, but it’s not as heavily trafficked as other waterfall trails in the park.

Directions to trailhead:
From Skyline Drive, follow the drive to Brown Gap (near mile marker 83).  The parking lot is on the west side of the drive.  To begin the hike, walk across Skyline Drive and follow the Brown Gap fire road downhill.

Molly’s Knob

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Molly’s Knob is the best known hike in Hungry Mother State Park.  On a clear day, views of Mount Rogers can be seen from the summit.

Adam takes a look at Molly's Knob from the viewing platform lower on the trail.
Adam takes a look at Molly’s Knob from the viewing platform lower on the trail.

Adam Says

On our way down to Abingdon for a weekend of hiking and biking in the Highlands, we decided to stop by Hungry Mother State Park.   There is an interesting legend surrounding the origin of the park’s name.  Native Americans destroyed many settlements south of this park on the New River.  Molly Marley and her child survived the raid and were taken captive.   Eventually they escaped the raiders.  They wandered through the wilderness until Molly finally collapsed.  Her child wandered away, hungry and alone.  Eventually the child was found by residents of a small settlement near where the park stands today.  All the child would say was “Hungry Mother”.  A search party went out to find Molly, but they were too late.  There are some variations to this legend, but it is an interesting tale.

The colors of the fall leaves were really quite gorgeous in the park, so we decided walk around a bit.  Of course, the hiking enthusiasts that we are, we decided to try the hike up Molly’s Knob.

We parked in a small lot on the northeast side of Hungry Mother Lake.  We left the car and began walking the Lake Trail Loop, giving us glimpses of the beauty of the lake.  After .5 miles, this joined the blue-blazed Ridge Trail.  We continued on this up a steady uphill grade for .2 miles until we reached the viewing platform pictured below.  With the beautiful colors on the mountain of Molly’s Knob in view, we decided to take the remaining trip to the summit.  We continued up the white-blazed Molly’s Knob Trail for .9 miles.  The trail was marked as a black diamond trail, but we didn’t find this portion to be too difficult.   After the .9 miles, we began the fuchsia-blazed Vista Trail.  This was the steepest portion of the hike, but once we got to the top, we were quite impressed by the view.  While I scurried around looking for a geocache, Christine enjoyed taking a few pictures of the views.  We shortened the trip back by just following the Molly’s Knob Trail to our car.  We were worried about the hike taking too much out of us for our trip to Mount Rogers the next day, but it was worth the risk to see these views.

There are several geocaches to find in Hungry Mother State Park, but here are the few that I located on the trail:

foliage
The forest was filled with foliage of every color. Pictured Below: The golden foliage along this trail was especially spectacular. Adam even found several geocaches along the way.

geocache foliage and pdp

Christine Says…

Going on this hike was completely unintentional.  We wanted to drive through Hungry Mother State Park just to see what the park had to offer.  But the foliage along the lake was so pretty, that we felt compelled to get out of the car and walk a bit.  I thought a short stroll along the level Lake Trail would be pleasant and scenic.

After a short bit of walking, we reached the junction of the Ridge Trail, and decided to turn there to make a short 1 mile loop back to the car.  At the top of the ridge, we saw the platform overlooking Molly’s Knob off in the distance.  Next to the platform, a sign indicated that the summit was only 1.3 miles further.  The short distance made the summit far too tempting, and we were on our way.  I kind of regretted not changing clothes before we hiked.   The impromptu nature of this hike had me wearing jeans, a dressy shirt and my hair was down.  About halfway up the steep climb, I would have traded just about anything for a ponytail holder.  As luck would have it, someone left a pack of hair elastics in one of the geocache boxes Adam found.  I was much more comfortable with my hair up, but hiking in jeans is never fun.

The view from the top was obscured by fog and clouds, but it was still beautiful with all the fall color.
The view from the top was obscured by fog and clouds, but it was still beautiful with all the fall color. Pictured Below:  You get some nice views of the lake along the trail.

lake view

There were some steep sections of trail, but the fall colors were so beautiful I hardly noticed the climb.  We had almost the entire trail to ourselves, too.  We saw just two other solo hikers near the beginning of the hike, but after that we didn’t encounter a single soul.   The wind was rustling through the treetops, sending colored leaves falling down all around us.  Plumes of fog curled around the folds of the mountains.  Off in the distance, we could hear a pileated woodpecker cackling.  In no time, we reached the summit and its beautiful view of the valley.  There were two benches built into the summit, so it was a perfect place to rest before hiking back down.

The trail down was so steep in some places, that momentum had us practically running downhill.  The final stretch back gave us a very pretty view of the lake and the beach below. This hike turned out to be a great surprise!

Trail Notes

  • Distance – 3.8 miles the way we went making a partial loop.  You can shed .4 miles off, by cutting out the Lake Trail Loop trail and Ridge Trail
  • Elevation Change –1000 feet
  • Difficulty – 3. The steepest parts were the Ridge Trail portion and the Vista Trail, but we found it to be a moderate hike.
  • Trail Conditions – 4 The trail is well-maintained and traveled.  We found the Vista Trail to be a little slippery during the rain due to some clay surface.
  • Views –3.5. Great views from the summit and Hungry Mother Lake.  On a clear day, you should be able to see Mount Rogers.
  • Waterfalls/streams –2. You do get some nice views of the lake.  Since it used to be a stream before it was dammed, we thought it was worth mentioning.
  • Wildlife – 1. We saw a pileated woodpecker, but nothing else.  There is some good birding in the area.
  • Ease to Navigate – 4. There are a few switches in trails during the path we chose, but everything was well-marked.
  • Solitude – 4. We only saw two people on the trail on a Saturday afternoon, so I’m guessing it is not very well-traveled.  During heavy camping weekends, I would expect more traffic.

Directions to trailhead:
On I-81, take exit 47 and then take 11 South.  After a little over a mile, take a right on to 16.  Follow this into Hungry Mother State Park (fee required of $2-$3).  Take a right immediately after the P6 lot and continue on the road until you reach a cul-de-sac parking lot.  The sign for the Lake Trail Loop is at the end of the cul-de-sac.

Seneca Rocks (WV)

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The formation of Seneca Rocks is an exciting landmark for all to see. The trail is a pleasant three-mile hike along gentle uphill grades and switchbacks.  The summit has a viewing platform suitable for all hikers and the opportunity for more adventurous folks to scramble out onto the exposed rock face for a more dramatic view.

The trail starts off over an arched bridge.
The trail starts off over an arched bridge.

Adam Says…

When people first see the sheer rock face of Seneca, most probably assume they’re in for a really tough hike.  However, I was surprised to find that this hike is not as difficult at all.  This was my second time hiking up Seneca Rocks.

Seneca Rocks is probably most known among rock-climbers.  You may see several dots scaling the face from the parking lot. There are multiple paths up the sections of rocks, but it is not for amateurs. Seneca Rocks is made of Tuscarora quartzite.

The trail starts off from the parking lot opposite of the Sites Homestead.  You will see a sign marking the beginning of the trail, mentioning that it is 1.5 miles to the top along with 1000 feet of elevation gain.  You will quickly come to a bridge across the North Fork River.  The trail continues on the opposite side.  There are interpretive signs along the trail that will give you a lot of information about the trees and geology of the area.   You will slowly rise through the forests to meet a row of stairs which starts a steeper, uphill climb.  You will have several switchbacks along the trail, but they help take the pain away you would feel for a steeper hike.  Once you reach the top, there is an observation platform that allows for some gorgeous views to the west.

The view from the Seneca Rocks viewing platform.
The view from the Seneca Rocks viewing platform. Below: Adam at the warning sign; More views

sign seneca rocks_1

For those that are more adventurous, you will find a sign slightly above the observation point pictured above.  You can continue past this point, but it is not for the faint of heart or the feeble-footed.  This path will take you to actually hike the skinny area of the top of Seneca Rocks.  At some points of this climb at the very top, you will be standing on rock about the width of your body with several hundred feet of drop-off on both sides of you.  The views do allow you to see to the east and west from the top, but most people should stay at the observation point.  Fearful of heights, the first time I did not venture much further past the warning sign.  This time, I felt a little more confident and did explore things a little further.  Several people have died on this portion, so do not attempt anything that is uncomfortable.

If you are interested in geocaching, there are several to find around the Seneca Rocks area.  There are more than these listed, but these are the easiest to do while on this hike.  Here are the ones I found in the area:

I would highly recommend anyone interested in taking a trip to West Virginia to take some time to visit Seneca Rocks.  These formations are really an amazing site and the hike up is paid off by gorgeous views that will make you truly appreciate the breath-taking scenery of West Virginia.

Christine Says…

Seneca Rocks was the last stop of our whirlwind day in West Virginia.  We’ve hiked this trail a few times, and wanted to take the time to share it on our website.

The hike is understandably the most heavily trafficked trail in all of Monongahela National Forest.  Seneca Rocks has so much to see beyond its namesake attraction.  The visitors center, located at the base of the rocks,  is beautifully designed and is full of interesting exhibits, a theater and a small gift shop.  The original visitors center burned to the ground in 1992, but the new one is even nicer than the original.  The area also offers fishing, picnicking, nearby camping and even a restored homestead from the 1830’s.  The Sites Homestead has lovely gardens and a spectacular view of the rock “spine” on the mountain above.

The Sites Homestead
The Sites Homestead. Below: Horseback Riders; A peek between the rocks.

seneca rocks horses seneca rocks_3

Since Adam has already described the hike itself so thoroughly, I wanted to share one of my memories from a childhood visit to Seneca Rocks.   My family spent a lot of time camping and hiking in the area when I was a kid.  On one trip to Seneca Rocks, I kept telling my parents that the “rock was shaped different”.  My mom said that I probably didn’t remember what the rock looked like exactly.  But, I insisted that a big part of the rock face had fallen right off the mountain.  My parents just laughed at me.  But, it turned out I was RIGHT.   Two days before that visit, a large freestanding tower of rock (called the Gendarme) in the center notch of the rocks had toppled over and crumbled down the mountainside.  You can see the Gendarme in this old historical engraving.

The hike to the top of Seneca is really pretty easy.  You used to be able to take a guided horseback ride to the top, but Yokum’s Stables stopped operating in September of 2015.

Trail Notes

  • Distance – 3 miles out and back
  • Elevation Change –1000 feet
  • Difficulty – 2. The entire outbound hike is uphill along gradual grades and switchbacks.
  • Trail Conditions – 3.5 The trail is well-maintained.
  • Views –4. The view the platform is pretty to the west, but for a better view, climb beyond the platform onto the rocks for stunning east and west views.
  • Waterfalls/streams –3. The beginning of the hike takes you over an arched bridge and across a beautiful, wide section of the North Fork River.  Several smaller streams converge near the trailhead.
  • Wildlife – 1. We saw lots of chipmunks and a gigantic black snake.
  • Ease to Navigate – 5. There is only one trail.  It would be nearly impossible to get lost.
  • Solitude – 0. This is the most popular trail in all of Monongahela National Forest.  Everybody hikes this trail, so expect lots of company along the way.

Directions to trailhead:
Seneca Rocks sits right at the junction of Rt. 33 and Rt. 55 in West Virginia.  You can’t miss it.  The hike starts out across the parking lot from the historic Sites Homestead.

Big Schloss

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Big Schloss is a moderate 4 mile hike with gorgeous views at the top. Located in George Washington National Forest’s Lee Ranger District, this trail is one of our favorite re-hikes due to great views and beauty of the trail.

Christine's dad and Adam at the Big Schloss overlook.
Christine’s dad and Adam at the Big Schloss overlook.

Adam says…

Since Christine’s birthday is this week, her parents wanted to do something to celebrate.  So, we decided to take them on a hike to Big Schloss and have a picnic.   We’ve done this hike on numerous occasions, but this was the first time for her parents.

German settlers to this area named this rock outcropping “Big Schloss” due to its resemblance to a castle.  “Schloss” means “castle” in German.

We parked at the Wolf Gap Campground.  There are outhouses near the parking lot in case you need to make a pit stop before the hike.   The Mill Mountain trailhead starts out from campsite #9.  You’ll see the trail marker indicating a distance of two miles to Big Schloss.

Christine's mom climbs the Mill Mountain Trail
Christine’s mom climbs the Mill Mountain Trail.  Below:   We saw lots of red and yellow in the trees already, the first panoramic view after the initial ascent, Christine’s Mom and Dad check out the small cave

red foliage_1 first look cave

The hike starts off with a fairly steep and steady uphill.  However, you are getting this portion of the hike done with first, which is a nice bonus.  After .66 miles, your climb ends. When you reach the ridge, the trail takes a sharp turn to the left.   For most of the remainder of this hike, you will be walking on the top of the ridge, with occasional views through the trees to your left of the Long Mountain ridge and better views to your right.

At .78 miles, you will come to your first overlook.  We noticed quite a bit of tree color on the trail and at the overlooks, which gets us both excited for some fall hiking.   You’ll continue walking on the ridge, going slightly up and down, but not a lot of elevation change.  At 1.75 miles, you will reach a signpost leading you to take a right to take the Big Schloss spur trail to the summit just .25 miles ahead.   At 1.9 miles, you will see a campsite off to the left of the main trail and a small rock outcrop that holds a small cave.

You access the Big Schloss overlook via a small wood footbridge.
You access the Big Schloss overlook via a small wood footbridge.

Shortly after this, you will cross a wooden footbridge and then reach the summit for the best views.  There is not a ton of room on the rocks to view the summit, but you will likely have a spot to enjoy the view and eat a snack.

At the summit, we ate a small handful of trailmix and then made our way back to the parking lot for a picnic lunch.  Christine’s mother went overboard on packing for the picnic.  She brought about 15 pieces of fried chicken, various pasta salads, pineapple, grapes, cheese & crackers, three different bags of potato chips, assorted beverages, and two birthday cakes (lemon blueberry cake and coconut cake).  We ate way more than should have, but we had a wonderful morning for a hike.

Adam and our friend Shannon found the Big Schloss Cache back in 2007.
Adam and our friend Shannon found the Big Schloss Cache back in 2007.

If you are into geocaching, there is one that you can find not too far from the summit.

Christine Says…

Big Schloss is one of my favorite hikes in the Lee District.  It’s a beautiful hike in every season!  Springtime brings a trail lined with mountain laurel and rhododendron.  In the fall, the changing foliage colors spread across the valley below like a colorful tapestry (photo from Fall ’08).  Summer brings fog in the valley and dense green foliage all around (photo from May 2007).  In the winter, views are crystal clear and unobstructed for miles and miles.

Big Schloss offers beautiful, panoramic views - especially to the west.
Big Schloss offers beautiful, panoramic views – especially to the west.

The area is popular with central Virginians.  The Wolf Gap campground is often full, and you’ll see hiking groups  – especially on weekends.  We’ve seen everything from hardcore mountain bikers to ultra-distance trail runners on the Mill Mountain trail.  A couple years ago, we even met a team of competitive cyclists helping an injured teammate off the mountain.  The terrain is very rugged, so I imagine you’d have to be an experienced mountain biker to travel this route.

On this particular day, we hiked with my Mom & Dad to celebrate my birthday.  In addition to their wonderful company, I also got the gift of a new hiking gadget before starting the hike.  My parents gave me a pair of Komperdell trekking poles.  I’ve been wanting to get a set of poles for quite some time now, so I was thrilled with the present.  I don’t really have the best of balance, so I loved the added stability the poles gave me hiking down the loose, rocky trail on the return trip.  I was also amazed with how much strain they took off my knees. The model they gave me has cork handles, which are apparently cooler and chafe less than other handle types.

We were surprised to see how many colorful leaves had already fallen.
We were surprised to see how many colorful leaves had already fallen.

When we started out on our hike, the sky was brilliant blue with just an occasional cloud passing by overhead.  By the time we got to the overlook, the sky was mostly cloudy and hazy.  It wasn’t the best view that we’ve ever had from Big Schloss, but it was beautiful nonetheless.  I loved seeing the hints of autumn starting to appear in the forest.  The Virginia creeper was crimson.  A lot of maples and dogwoods were starting to change, too.  At every open viewpoint, we could see distant ridges with red, yellow and orange trees peppered into the greenness.  Fall is definitely on its way, and I think it might be coming early this year.

We really didn’t stay too long at the summit, especially since we had a big picnic lunch waiting for us at the campground.  As Adam mentioned, my mom went nuts with quantity and selection.   I’m not complaining, but seriously… who brings two birthday cakes to a picnic lunch for four people?

My mom even brought birthday candles along.  My family “sang” Happy Birthday to me while the breeze repeatedly blew out the candles.  You’ll notice “sang” is in quote marks.  I have to tell you, my family cannot sing – not a single note.  They’re so bad, it’s become a family joke to make “Happy Birthday to You” sound like the saddest, most off-key, howl-inducing dirge you might ever imagine.  Since we were in a public place, my dad and Adam put extra effort into singing it loudly and badly.  I think I heard babies crying, dogs barking and campers exclaiming “What is that noise?”

After lunch, we parted ways with my parents and headed home.  It was a great hike.

Note: There is another great trail starting out from the Wolf Gap Campground.  If you have a couple days in the area, check out the Tibbet Knob trail.

Trail Notes

  • Distance – 4 milesout-and-back. Add another .1 mile to get to your car.
  • Elevation Change –1000 feet
  • Difficulty – 2.  After a rather steep .7 mile climb at the beginning, the trail is mostly level and follows a ridge.  There is one other short climb after the Mill Mountain Trail meets up with the Big Schloss spur.
  • Trail Conditions – 2.5.  The trail is well-maintained but it’s rocky and has lots of loose footing in the first .7 mile.
  • Views –4.5. The view are pretty spectacular – especially on a clear day.
  • Waterfalls/streams –0. Non-existent.
  • Wildlife – 0 We didn’t see anything beyond chipmunks, birds and squirrels.  We did see a fawn near the Wolf Gap campground.
  • Ease to Navigate – 4.  Just stay straight on the trail.
  • Solitude – 2. This trail doesn’t see the same crowds as trails in Shenandoah National Park, but it is a popular hike with the local crowd.

Download a Trail Map (PDF)

Directions to trailhead:
From I-81, take exit 279.  Follow Rte. 675 until it meets Route 42.  Turn right on 42 and then take almost an immediate left on 675 (Wolf Gap Road).  Follow Wolf Gap Road (you will have to make a few turns so keep an eye at road junctions) until you come to the Wolf Gap Campground (right on the Hardy County Line.)

Cole/Cold Mountain

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Amherst County’s Cole Mountain Loop is a moderate 6 mile hike with serious payoffs at the summit.  Situated in George Washington National Forest’s Pedlar Ranger District, this trail (also know as “Cold Mountain”) is one of Central Virginia’s only hikes to cross a bald, pasture-like summit.  Views of the valley from the saddle and summit are open in every direction.

The Cold Mountain summit is open and offers panoramic views in every direction. In this shot you can see the white Appalachian Trail blaze and the USGS benchmark.
The Cole Mountain summit is open and offers panoramic views in every direction. In this shot you can see the white Appalachian Trail blaze and the USGS benchmark.

Christine Says…

Despite the busyness of our weekend, Adam and I made time to hike the Cole Mountain loop on Sunday morning.  We had read a description of the trail on another hiking site.  Their reviewer compared the summit to Scotland or Switzerland.  I don’t know about that, but it was definitely some of the prettiest Virginia summit scenery I’ve ever seen.

We started out from home at 5:30 in the morning.  It was still dark, but we wanted to hike before the crowds and heat got too bad.  We made a short detour before the hike to visit Statons Creek Falls.  It was just a couple miles from the trailhead, and was well worth a look.

The Appalachian Trail crossing is well-marked. Park across from this sign in a small lot.
The Appalachian Trail crossing is well-marked. Park across from this sign in a small lot.

The forest service road to the Cole Mountain trailhead is unpaved and bumpy.  There is only room for five or six cars at the parking area, which is located right at an Appalachian Trail crossing.

The hike starts out downhill along the forest service road for a couple tenths of a mile.  You’ll soon pick up the blue-blazed Hotel Trail on the right side of the road.  The route follows the Hotel Trail for about 3.5 miles until a junction with the Appalachian Trail (AT).  The AT takes you up a series of switchbacks, across the Cole Mountain summit and eventually back down to the parking lot where you started out.

Just a few of the gorgeous wildflowers on display in the meadow.
Just a few of the gorgeous wildflowers on display in the meadow.  Pictured below:  The old hog wall, the open meadow along the Hotel Trail, a beautiful tree sheltering one of the loveliest backcountry campgrounds in Virginia.

hog wall hotel trail meadow hotel trail meadow campsite_1

The thing I loved about this hike was the ever-changing landscape along the way.  It was a perfect sampling of Virginia’s varied scenery.  The trail started off winding its way down through lush, green beds of ferns sheltered by old hardwoods.  After passing through a short tunnel of pines, the forest gave way to a wide meadow-like clearing filled with shoulder high wildflowers in every shade of pink, purple, yellow and white.   Descending back into the forest, we saw numerous remnants from a bygone mountain farm.  Crumbling stone “hog walls” and errant apple trees were easily spotted along the trail.

The Cow Camp Gap Shelter
The Cow Camp Gap Shelter.  Pictured below:  a checkerboard is painted onto the shelter floor, Adam enjoys reading the shelter journal

checkerboard journal

We took a snack break along a small stream just before the 3 mile mark.  There was a fire pit and log seats that made a perfect place to enjoy some trail mix and water.   We ended up taking another break a few tenths of a mile down the trail when we arrived at the Cow Camp Gap Shelter.  This shelter is just one of many three-sided huts located along (or near) the Appalachian Trail.  This one was especially nice.  There was a checkerboard painted on the floor, with acorn cap and twig game pieces.  The shelter had a newer log book, so there weren’t many entries to enjoy this time.  The site also had the biggest picnic table I’ve ever seen.  It made Adam look like he was hobbit-sized.

The shelter marks the beginning of the only serious uphill climb on this hike.  About a half mile after leaving the shelter, you meet up with the Appalachian Trail and head north.  Along the way, the forest begins to thin out, giving you glimpses of a view from rocky ledges along the trail.

Upon reaching the saddle of Cole Mountain, the terrain changes radically and instantly.  The trees disappear and a wide, pasture-like alley appears across the summit.  The field is dotted with giant boulders and speckled with wildflowers.  It’s a great place for a picnic lunch.  You certainly can’t beat the sweeping views in every direction.

Adam Says…

This truly was a wonderful hike!  I don’t think this hike is very well known to those that don’t live in Central Virginia, but it is a true gem and definitely worth a trip no matter where you live.  We had absolutely perfect hiking weather with beautiful blue skies, dappled with an occasional cloud.  We plan on coming back down to this area soon to try the nearby hike of Mount Pleasant.

Cole Mountain is also commonly known as Cold Mountain (and is listed as such on Hiking Upward), but when we saw its official name through the USGS was Cole Mountain, we are sticking with their name.  I know when I told my family about hiking Cold Mountain, they thought about the movie with Nicole Kidman and Jude Law.  That Cold Mountain is actually in North Carolina, along the Blue Ridge Parkway.

The first lookout point along the Appalachian Trail was already showing some signs of fall.
The first lookout point along the Appalachian Trail was already showing some signs of fall.

To begin the circuit that we chose, we took the Hotel Trail.  The origin of the name is supposedly derived from the landowner Joseph Richeson, whose house was known as The Hotel, due to the number of frequent guests.

Once you start the Hotel Trail, you will almost immediately come to a horse gate.  Go through the horse gate and continue to follow the blue blazes.  You will follow these blue blazes until you reach the junction with the Appalachian Trail.  At .9 miles, you will reach the beautiful field of wildflowers on your left that Christine mentioned.  At around 1.3 miles, you will reach a gorgeous spot for an overnight camp.  I would highly recommend this to anyone that is planning on doing a backpacking trip.  There is a large firepit formed with logs to sit and enjoy some S’mores over an open fire.

From the firepit, look to the northeast and you will see the blue blazes continue.  At 1.7 miles, you will come across the “hog wall”, which is neat to think about people that used this area in the past.  Continue down the trail until you reach the bottom of Cow Camp Gap at 2.9 miles.  On our way down, I heard some strong howling off in the distant which sounded like coyotes.  Since we’ve heard of this from other hikers, there must be some nearby.  You will see on the other side of a small stream, the Cow Camp Gap Shelter.  This is a great spot for any thru-hikers or people that just want to have a packed lunch, rest, or fill up water from the spring.  We always enjoy reading the logs that thru-hikers and backpackers leave during their trips there.  Once you see the shelter on the right, just stay on the trail until you reach the junction just ahead.  The path to the right will take you to the shelter and the spring, but after your stop, you will take the path to the left.   I imagine that during rainier times, this would be a nice spot to hear a trickling stream, but it was dried out when we were there.

From the junction at the shelter, you will have another .5 miles to reach the junction with the Appalachian Trail.  At 3.5 miles, take a right (North) on the Appalachian trail.  You will continue your ascent through a few switchbacks.  At 3.7 miles, you will reach the first of two nice spots for an overlook at the edge of the switchback.  Continue on the trail until you reach the large meadow with the summit.  You will see a few vertical 4 foot high rocks sticking out of the ground.  On the ground in the rock, you will see the USGS benchmark which marks the summit of Cole Mountain at 4,033 feet.  Take a moment to enjoy the views at the summit and continue to follow the AT white blazes going north.  You will see many gorgeous panoramic 360 degree views as you cross along the highlands for a few tenths of a mile.  The scenery was truly breathtaking as we trekked across the highlands of the saddle, across the bald summit. (Note: camping and/or fires are not allowed on the bald of Cold Mountain.) At the end of the meadow at 5.2 miles, you will begin your descent into the woods and back to your vehicle.  You will cross over a fire road, but stay on the white-blazed trail until you reach your vehicle.

Adam makes his way across the bald summit of Cole Mountain.
Adam makes his way across the bald summit of Cole Mountain.  Pictured below:  this bush was heavy with berries.

cold mountain summit_8

If you are into geocaching, there are a two that you can find along the way.  The first is at the “hog wall” and the second is near the summit.  There was also another at Statons Creek Falls, which I feel is one of the prettiest waterfalls in Virginia.  Here are links to the sites for those that are interested:

As a slightly humorous aside, we did see a couple of guys hiking that came over from another mountain.  They had already hiked for about 8 miles, making this hike their second summit.  They were planning on going back the way they came and making it a 17 mile hike to do in one day.  We saw them around noon and they were hoping to make it back to their car around dinner time.  They had a poor map and we tried to show them directions, but they were off quickly.  However, they ended up going the opposite way away from their vehicle.  We thought we should probably check the news to see if they became lost.  I hope they got back safely, but I’m sure they had to reheat their dinner.

I would definitely say that this hike is one of my favorites in Virginia.  The views were exceptional and the scenery along the entire trail was magnificent.  Make this a “must-do” hike in your future planning!  You won’t regret it.

Trail Notes

  • Distance – 6 miles loop
    (Check out the stats from Map My Hike)*
    Note – the MapMyHike stats show the loop in reverse. When we rehiked the route on 6/25/16, we did it the opposite way so we hit the meadow views first.
  • Elevation Change – 1490 feet – The trail starts out both up and down, but the ascent to the summit is about 1.5 miles uphill.
  • Difficulty – 3. The trail starts with some ascents and descents.  Once you meet the AT, you have about a steady uphill for 1.5 miles, but it wasn’t too tough.
  • Trail Conditions – 4. The trail is well-maintained and not too hard on the feet.  There are some downhill portions that have some loose rock.
  • Views – 5. It doesn’t get better than panoramic 360 degree mountain views. We felt the scenery throughout the trail was gorgeous.
  • Waterfalls/streams – 0.5.  There is a stream near the Cow Camp Gap shelter, but it was down to a trickle for us.
  • Wildlife – 1.5. We only saw a deer around here.
  • Ease to Navigate – 3. There aren’t a lot of turns here, but you may feel a little confused starting off.
  • Solitude –3.5. We did encounter a few people, but we had a lot of beauty to ourselves.  Expect to see a few people along the highlands at the top, but there is a ton of room to enjoy the scenery privately.

* MapMyHike is not necessarily accurate, as the GPS signal fades in and out – but it still provides some fun and interesting information.

Directions to trailhead:   Take Exit 188A off of Interstate-81, merging on to US-60 towards Buena Vista.  After going through Buena Vista, take a left at Coffeytown Road/Rte 634.  After 1.6 miles, take a right on to Wiggins Spring Road/Rte 755.  While four-wheel drive isn’t necessary, I would recommend it since it is a rough gravel road.   Stay on this for about 2.5 miles until you reach parking on the left side of the road.  (GPS Coordinates for parking: 37.759652, -79.195336) Park your vehicle and then proceed further down the road for .2 miles.  Before the road splits, you will see two posts marked with blue blazes which will begin the Hotel Trail.

Hightop Mountain

1 Comment

Hightop Mountain is a nice hike along the Appalachian Trail in the Southern District of Shenandoah National Park.  It features a super view and you can take a short spur trail to view an Appalachian Trail shelter.

It wasn't the prettiest day for hiking, but the view from Hightop was still impressive. Hightop is the tallest peak in the south district of the park.
It wasn’t the prettiest day for hiking, but the view from Hightop was still impressive. Hightop is the tallest peak in the south district of the park.

Adam Says…

Wow, it’s been a while.  Sorry for the delay in posting anything new for a while, but life has just gotten in the way.  We did get to go for a week in the White Mountains of New Hampshire and our annual trip to Acadia National Park in Maine, but we haven’t hiked in Virginia for a while.  We’re just now getting back into the swing of things.  We had a limited time on Sunday to do a hike, so we decided to pick something close by and relatively short.  It was great to get back on the trails!

The hike was very nice.  The trail had a steady uphill the entire way up, but it felt very manageable.  We noticed that the trail was a little more overgrown than normal.  This year has seemed to be great for weeds growing early on in the summer.  Usually we have better views along the side of Skyline Drive and the trails, but things seem to have grown wilder this year.  I’m sure the rain and cooler summer temps have caused this.  The grass and weeds along the way tended to tickle our legs.  The hike didn’t have a lot to view along the way, but it was nice to take a side trip and view the AT cabin and log.  Around 1.2 miles, you will reach the intersection with the Smith Roach Gap Fire Road.  Just cross the road to continue on the AT.  You can reach the AT cabin by taking the spur trail shortly after the intersection with the Smith Roach Gap Fire Road.  I always enjoy reading through the logs of those that have passed through.  In this logbook there was some entries about people bringing the thru-hikers food, some card game scores, and a tale about how a bunch of them danced naked in the evening.

The views at the top really do show you a lot of mountains to the south and you can get nice glimpses of Skyline Drive.  On a nice fall day, this could be a great photo opportunity when the leaves change color.

On the way back after .6 miles, you can take the option of taking the Smith Roach Gap Fire Road back to your car by taking a left, but the fire road looked very overgrown, so we opted to just go back the way we came.

Hightop Hut
Hightop Hut offers a nice rest stop for weary hikers and backpackers. Below: The hut has a trail journal.  They are always a lot of fun to read.

Journal

Christine Says…

It was so great to get back out on the trail again!  I loved lacing my boots up, feeling the trail crunching under my soles and hearing the sounds of late summer bees buzzing lazily through the wild flowers.  I’ve been out of the woods for far too long.

The hike up Hightop is one we’ve done several times now, but we’ve always approached the summit as an out-and-back from the northern end of the trail.  It’s shorter and steeper, but gets you to the same viewpoint.  I actually enjoyed this southern approach quite a bit more.  The grade was very gentle and gradual.  This route also gave us the opportunity to visit the Hightop Hut.  I always like to stop by the AT shelters and read the trail journals.

This cute little toad was one of the few wildlife specimens we saw along our walk.
This cute little toad was one of the few wildlife specimens we saw along our walk.

The view from the summit of Hightop was beautiful.  The sky may have been cloudy, but we could still see ten layers of mountain ridges fading into the distant southwest.  We also got a nice view of our “home” mountain – Massanutten.

After the hike, Adam and I started casually tossing around the idea of doing a long backpacking trip next summer.  We might try to hike the 101 miles of the Appalachian Trail through Shenandoah National Park sometime next spring.  The more we talk about it, the less casual the idea seems.  We’ll see…

Trail Notes

  • Distance – 3.8 miles out-and-back which includes an optional .2 mile trip to an AT shelter
  • Elevation Change –967 feet
  • Difficulty – 2.  While it is a steady uphill the way up, it’s not too steep of a grade.
  • Trail Conditions – 4.  The trail is well-traveled and well-maintained.
  • Views –3. At the summit, you do have a chance to get some nice views of Skyline Drive and beyond.  We counted a series of 10 ridges of depth at the top.
  • Waterfalls/streams –0. Non-existent.
  • Wildlife – .5 Other than a toad, we only saw one doe.  There also didn’t appear to be a lot of birds on this trail.
  • Ease to Navigate – 4.  Just stay straight on the trail.
  • Solitude – 3.5 This trail doesn’t see a lot of traffic, but would be busier during the AT thru-hiking in the summer.

Directions to trailhead:
Park on the east side of Skyline Drive at Smith Roach Gap (around mile marker 68.5).  At the end of the parking lot, go on the fire road.  The trail takes off about 10 yards on the left.

Lewis Spring Falls

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Lewis Spring Falls is a hike leading to the fourth tallest waterfall in the park.  It starts out from the Big Meadows amphitheater.

This nice view of the layered mountains comes near the end of the hike. This view is much more impressive than the waterfall this trail is named for.
This nice view of the layered mountains comes near the end of the hike. This view is much more impressive than the waterfall this trail is named for.

Adam Says…

In my opinion, Lewis Spring Falls is decent for a waterfall hike.  If you are visiting Shenandoah National Park, I would recommend Dark Hollow Falls, Rose River Falls, South River Falls, Doyles River or White Oak Canyon before this one.

We started this trail from the amphitheater at Big Meadows.  You can also take off from the Big Meadows Campground, adding an extra .8 miles to your trip, but we feel this is the best way to see what is necessary. From the parking lot, you’ll go down a very short spur to connect with the Appalachian Trail.  After a short distance, there is a cement post to let you know to leave the AT and proceed on the trail to the right for the Lewis Spring Falls.

The Barred Owl
The Barred Owl

Shortly after we started the Lewis Spring Falls trail, we had a great barred owl viewing.  We heard a bunch of birds causing quite a racket.  We stopped to try to identify the birds, when I spotted the barred owl on the tree.  There were at least six chickadees that were dive-bombing the owl.  Our guess is that they were trying to protect chicks nearby.  As the owl looked in one direction, the chickadees took turns diving down to snip on the owl’s back.  It reminded me of the old elementary school trick, when you would tap on someone’s shoulder to make them look behind their shoulder when nobody was there.  We got to watch this interaction for several minutes before the owl finally flew away to a different tree, giving the chickadees a moment of victory.  However, the owl may ultimately win the war when the sun sets.

The trail down to the falls is quite rocky.  While it is well-traveled, the trail is very steep downhill.  This will make you constantly have to watch where you are placing your feet, as rocks and gravel are very loose.  Once you have traveled 1.2 miles, you will come to a post showing that the viewpoint is shortly ahead.  This post also includes the junction of the trail for your return loop.  You will cross a stream but there are tons of rocks in the trail to make this an easy crossing.

On your return trip from the viewpoint, shortly after crossing the stream, you will take the spur trail to the right that connects to the Appalachian Trail.  This is a constant uphill through more rocky terrain for .7 miles.  You will come to a gravel road and a cement post showing that the AT trail junction is up ahead 70 yards.  Take the AT to the left (north) to get back to the parking lot.  The AT is definitely easier to walk, but the trail stays uphill at a slightly lesser grade.  You will eventually come up behind the Big Meadows Lodge.  There is a nice viewpoint to the west from a rocky overlook, which may give you a nice place to view a sunset and still be close to the parking lot.

Along with the owl, lots of birds and several deer - we saw lots of chipmunks along the way.
Along with the owl, lots of birds and several deer – we saw lots of chipmunks along the way.

One side note is that before you reach the Lodge, there is a side trail to Blackrock, another popular trail to view a sunset.  This has been closed until further notice due to Peregrine Falcons nesting.

Christine Says…

I told Adam I was going to write a one word entry for this hike and that word was going to be “lame”!  Maybe I was in a crabby mood on this particular evening, but I still think there are so many nicer waterfall hikes in the park.  We hadn’t hiked to Lewis Spring Falls in three or four years.  I had remembered the falls being substantially more impressive than what we encountered on this particular night.  Even with all the wet weather we’ve had this spring/summer, the waterfall was down to a trickle.  When we got to the viewing point, I told Adam that the faucet in our bathtub has a more impressive flow.  My other problem was the light.  Even in late evening, the sun was still high enough in the western sky to put the waterfall in direct sunlight – so, alas – no nice photos of the falls.

Lewis Spring Falls
Lewis Spring Falls

The terrain on the trail down to the falls is tough going – steep, scrabbly rocks that force you to look down and pay attention to every step you take.  I always prefer to hike places where I can look around and enjoy the trail-side scenery instead of constantly following every move of my hiking boots.

We only saw one other pair of hikers along the trail – a couple guys trying to find their way down to the base of the falls. Another drawback to the Lewis Spring Falls is the fact that there is no good, safe way to reach the base of the falls.  Our hiking book advises explicitly not to attempt to climb down – there is no trail and there have actually been fatalities at this waterfall. I do know a few people who have climbed to the bottom, none of them said it was worthwhile. We watched the two guys make a couple unsuccessful attempts to descend before they eventually gave up.

The hike back up is on the long arm of the loop, so it’s a long, steady uphill back to the amphitheater.  By the time we got back, I was pretty tired and hungry.  I’m definitely a morning person through and through.  Evening hikes, even the short and easy ones,  really have a tendency to kick my butt.  If I was pressed to share my favorite thing about this hike, it would have to be the owl sighting.  That was pretty cool.

Trail Notes

  • Distance – 3.0 mile loop trail (longer options are also possible depending on how you connect to the trail)
  • Elevation Change – 990 feet.
  • Difficulty – 3.  The route we hiked was moderate.
  • Trail Conditions – 2.  The AT section is nice footing, but the trail down to the falls and back up is quite treacherous.
  • Views –2. There are views from the overlook near the falls, but the nicest mountain views are near the end of the hike.
  • Waterfalls/streams –3. Decent waterfall views, but because you can’t get to the bottom easily, you can only appreciate it from afar.
  • Wildlife –3. We have heard a bear on this trail before.  We saw a barred owl and several deer near the Big Meadows area.
  • Ease to Navigate – 4.  The trail is easy to follow and marked with blue blazes.
  • Solitude – 2. You’re likely to see some people here since the close proximity to Big Meadows.

Directions to trailhead:

Follow Skyline Drive to the Big Meadows Area near mile 51.2.  Follow the signs to the amphitheater.  At the parking lot near the amphitheater, you will see the post marking the trailhead.

White Oak Canyon

23 Comments

White Oak Canyon is one of Shenandoah’s most popular waterfall hikes.  The trail begins directly across Skyline Drive from Skyland Resort.

Upper Falls of White Oak Canyon
The upper falls of White Oak Canyon plunge 86 feet to a pool below.

Christine Says…

Adam and I set out early on Saturday morning to hike the White Oak Canyon trail.  Our primary goal was to avoid the holiday crowds, so we were quite pleased to arrive at 7:30 and find just one other car in the parking lot.

The park is always quiet and beautiful in the early morning.
The park is always quiet and beautiful in the early morning.

The morning was almost chilly – sunny, no humidity and a crisp breeze blowing.  It felt more like mid-May than the Fourth of July.  I don’t know about you, but I always associate the 4th with sultry, hazy, buggy weather.  Since I’m not a fan of typical Virginia summer weather, I thought the conditions were perfect for our hike.  The only thing I wasn’t thrilled about was the bright sun shining up above in the sky.  Sunny weather is great for hiking and enjoying the outdoors, but it complicates opportunities for waterfall and forest photography.  The strong overhead light makes it nearly impossible to properly expose images.  I was kind of bummed about that, but decided I was just going to enjoy the hike and not worry about getting good photos.

This rock formation sits at the junction of the Limberlost and the White Oak Canyon trail.
This rock formation sits at the junction of the Limberlost and the White Oak Canyon trail. Pictured below: the trail junction.

The trail makes its way down from the parking lot, crossing the Limberlost Trail twice.  After leaving the remains of the hemlock forest around Limberlost, the trail quickly descends into White Oak Canyon.  Ship-sized boulders start coming into view as you approach the stream.  The stream starts off as a trickle, but quickly picks up energy as little rivulets of run-off join the flow.  There are many small falls along the stream.  In places, the sheer canyon walls soar upward from the water.  The canyon is a rugged and wild place.

A pool along the White Oak Canyon stream.
A pool along the White Oak Canyon stream. Pictured below:  the stream passes through a narrow, rocky slot.

As you approach the upper falls, the sound of running water becomes increasingly audible in the woods.  There are two footbridges to cross before you come to the viewpoint of the upper falls.  This view is beautiful, but with a little extra effort you can reach the base of the waterfall and have an even nicer view.  On warm days, the pool at the base of the falls is a popular swimming spot.

A footbridge across the stream.
A footbridge across the stream.

Luckily, the weather decided to throw a favor my way.  Just as we reached the falls, a large band of clouds passed over the area.  It literally went from crystal clear blue skies to thick overcast in the span of five minutes.  I was able to photograph several spots along the waterfall before the clouds blew out as quickly as they appeared.  I even got knee-deep in the water at one spot to get the composition I wanted.  It was so slimy and slippery, so I used my tripod as a crutch.  I saw lots of brook trout darting in the pool.  They’re so pretty and colorful.  They almost look like autumn leaves swimming in the water.

Cubs on the White Oak Canyon Trail.
Cubs on the White Oak Canyon Trail. Pictured below: another shot of one cub and a view of momma bear’s back.

cub_2

On the hike back, I stopped to take a water break.  As I was sitting on a trail-side rock, I noticed a glossy, black shape moving quietly through the woods about 50 feet uphill from the trail.  I mouthed “BEAR!” to Adam.   A moment later, the sow and her two young cubs came into clear view.  We sat and watched the family for about ten minutes.  The momma bear moved parallel to the trail, turning over rocks looking for food.  The cubs bounced along behind her.  When they finally noticed us watching them, the cubs darted up a tree and watched us curiously.  Momma bear glanced up a few times, but mostly continued feeding along the way.  She soon ambled uphill and away from the trail.  With just a quick look over her shoulder, she called the cubs to her.  The cubs slid down the tree and scampered off into the woods with their mother.  Seeing the bears was the highlight of the hike.

As we continued our return trip, we passed dozens of hikers.  When we got back up to the Limberlost, there was even a church group hiking with 40+ members, lawn chairs, musical instruments.  I’m so glad we hiked the trail early and were able to enjoy the solitude.  You really can’t beat having a gorgeous waterfall and a great bear sighting all to yourselves!

Adam Says…

The White Oak Canyon trail is a great hike if you’re into streams and waterfalls.  This hike and Dark Hollow Falls are probably the two most popular trails in all of Shenandoah National Park.  Since this trail is so close to Skyland, it appeals to a lot of people.  There is a reason why the parking lot for this trail is so large.  This was the first time that we had hiked this trail from Skyline Drive.  Typically, we have visited the lower section of falls and approached the hike from State Road 600 near Syria, VA and Graves Mountain.  Going from the lower falls to the upper falls is quite steep, so if you want an easier day hike, I would recommend doing either the hike to the upper falls or the hike to the lower falls (instead of the full 8.2 mile loop).

Upper Falls of White Oak Canyon
Upper Falls of White Oak Canyon

Taking off from the parking lot on Skyline Drive, the trail is very well-traveled and smooth until you start seeing the water to your side.  At .3 miles, you will cross the Limberlost Trail which you could add to your trip if you desire.  The trail then presents more rocky conditions and you do have to watch your feet.  As you hike along the water, you will see several spots to pause and admire the rushing water.  At 2.2 miles, you will reach the top of the Upper Falls.  There is a horse trail that cuts the trail perpendicularly and you will notice the hitch posts for horses on the trail.  The water looks very peaceful here, but it soon rushes down into a deep chasm.

Scenery near the top of the first falls.
Scenery near the top of the first falls.

The viewpoint at 2.4 miles has some great views of the falls from above and the canyon cutting through the forest below.  You will also see some dead hemlocks standing along the gorge.  I can just imagine how magnificent this would have looked with the hemlocks still there.  From the viewpoint, continue on the trail for another .3 miles.  This is a sharp descent, but it will lead to the view from the base of the falls.  You will come to a cement post which lets you know you are .2 miles from the next set of falls.  This is also the marker that states you’ve reached the base of the falls.  I think the park has abandoned an official trail to the pool at the bottom of the Upper Falls, but if you make your way along the rocks heading north from the cement marker, you will shortly come to a “No Camping” sign.  Continue a little further and you will be able to see the impressive falls from the base, which includes the pool where the waterfall plunges.  This is definitely worth taking the time to view.

The pool at the base of the falls is a perfect swimming hole.
The pool at the base of the falls is a perfect swimming hole.

We headed back from this point, since the other falls are not quite as impressive.  This made for about a 5.4 mile hike.  I have a feeling that a lot of people continue to do the whole hike without planning ahead.  There is even a sign at the base of the Upper Falls warning hikers not to overestimate their hiking skills.  Once you pass the upper falls, the continuation of the hike down is quite steep.  The phrase in hiking, “What goes down, must come up” definitely applies here.  The hike back up would be a steady uphill climb that would likely exhaust people who haven’t planned appropriately.

We both enjoyed seeing the momma bear and two cubs frolicking near the trail.  We were able to show/warn two other hikers about the bears presence.   I could tell they really enjoyed the viewing, too.  The bear wisely moved away from the trail, probably sensing that many more hikers were headed in her direction.

Trail Notes

  • Distance – Anywhere from 4.6 to 8.2 miles (we hiked about 5.4 miles)
  • Elevation Change – Around 1200 feet. (2450 if you do the entire 8.2 miles)
  • Difficulty – 3.  The route we hiked was moderate.
  • Trail Conditions – 4.  The trail is well-traveled and well-maintained.
  • Views –0. No views – the entire hike is down in the woods.
  • Waterfalls/streams –4. One of the park’s nicest waterfall hikes.  If you do the shorter out-and-back, you’ll see one large waterfall and many smaller ones.  If you hike the full loop, there are six waterfalls.
  • Wildlife – 4. We saw a bear with her cubs, lots of chipmunks and a rabbit.
  • Ease to Navigate – 4.  The trail is easy to follow and marked with blue blazes.
  • Solitude – 0. Unless you hike this trail very early in the morning, expect to see substantial crowds. It’s one of the most popular hikes in the park.

Directions to trailhead:

Follow Skyline Drive to the Skyland Resort area.  The parking lot for White Oak Canyon is on the east side of the drive between mile markers 42 and 43.  It’s almost directly across the drive from the south entrance to Skyland.

The Priest

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The Priest is a wonderful segment hike along the Appalachian Trail in the George Washington National Forest’s Glenwood & Pedlar Ranger District.  The northbound trail access may be a little tough for some people to reach (4WD vehicles are strongly recommended), but if you can get there, you’ll be treated to magnificent views of the Tye River Valley.

Adam enjoys the view from The Priest
Adam enjoys the view from The Priest

Adam Says…

This was hike number two for us on a three-hike-day.  This was our first trip up The Priest, and it was well-worth the bumpy drive to get to the trail.   See the directions to trailhead (below) for some special precautions to take when approaching the trailhead.  On route 826, we decided to go a little further than  Crabtree Meadows, but didn’t make it all the way up by car to the AT junction.  We ended up parking at a campsite and hiking up the fire road for .3 miles.  Many people will want to park at Crabtree Meadows, but that will add one mile to the overall distance.  Route 826 can be quite steep. In fact, some sections of the road are much steeper than anything you’ll see on the actual trail.  We saw a Jeep brigade coming down the steepest section of road, but they looked like seasoned off-roaders.

Route 826 gets progressively rougher.
Route 826 gets progressively rougher. Pictured below: A group of off-roaders make their way down the road.

When you reach the junction (you’ll see painted rocks indicating north/south) of the Appalachian trail, head north (left).  You will come across the Priest Wilderness sign and trail map. When I was telling someone earlier about doing this trail today, they were wondering about the origin of the name “The Priest”.  The true origin is unknown, but there are a few myths.  The first is that it was named after the DuPriest family that lived in the area.  The second is that a minister in the area gave some of these nearby mountains religious names.  The Cardinal and The Friar are both close to The Priest.

Adam enjoys reading the journal at the AT shelter.
Adam enjoys reading the journal at the AT shelter.  Pictured Below: Some of the entries are funny, some divulge a little bit too much information.

journal_3

We found that the trail was a steady incline, but nothing too strenuous.  There was supposed to be a side trail to The Little Priest at .7 miles, but we didn’t see it (but we weren’t looking too hard).  At .9 miles, you will see a blue-blazed spur trail to an Appalachian Trail shelter.  We definitely recommend taking the extra .2 mile round trip to visit the shelter.  These shelters are a great place for all of the AT hikers to get together and have a roof over their head for a night.  At most of the shelters, you can find a journal in which the hikers will write about their day or plans, leave notes for other hikers, etc.  Since this hike is The Priest, the theme of this logbook was to make a confession.  It was a lot of fun to read through the journal entries.  These confessions ranged from eating two Poptarts, to taking drugs, to not paying for supplies.  If you happen to be hiking the trail in June when most of the AT thru-hikers are passing through, consider bringing along some treats to share.  It’s a form of “trail magic” and is always appreciated.  (read the guidelines – there are some tips for dispensing good magic on the Appalachian Trail Conservancy Site)  We did see a few thru-hikers on the trail today, but we hadn’t thought ahead to bring anything.

Around 1.3 miles, you will see some overhanging rocks to the north that lead to some marvelous views.  Take some time to enjoy the views.  The summit is only .1 mile further, but there are no views at the summit.  We really enjoyed this hike and hope to do this one again as well as the nearby Spy Rock.

Christine Says…

The Priest was probably my favorite of the three hikes we did on this particular day. Discovering a new hike is always a real treat, especially when it turns out to be as nice as this one.

There are actually two different ways to access the summit of The Priest. The southbound ascent is longer and much tougher – it follows the AT along a series of forty switchbacks with just over 3000 feet of elevation gain. It might be the hike with the most elevation gain in all of Virginia. One hiker remarked in the journal that the southbound climb “made him realize that he’s not the man he thought he was.” I guess that’s one way of saying that the hike was a long, tough haul!

We chose the northbound ascent primarily based on our limited time. The hike was listed in our book as strenuous, but I did not find it to be tough at all. The uphill grade was constant, but gentle. Adam and I were easily able to carry on conversation without any huffing and puffing uphill.

The terrain on this hike was so pretty! Along the first part of the trail, forest floor was blanketed with lush ferns. Every now and then, we could catch glimpses through the trees of the valley below. The summit of The Priest is 4,063 feet, so we were pretty high up (by Virginia standards, anyhow).

This appeared to be a popular campsite.
This appeared to be a popular campsite.

When we finally gained the ridge, there was a perfect (and obviously popular) campsite. Encircling the area was a collection of huge boulders arranged in an almost Zen-like natural sculpture. Amidst the boulders, there was a fire pit and a large smooth, open place to set up tents. If I were to spend a night along the trail, this would be my ideal kind of campsite.

Shortly after the campsite, the trail split. One arm headed down to the shelter and the other continued along the AT up to the summit of The Priest. This section of trail was lined with mountain laurels and wild azaleas in full bloom. Several places along the trail were covered with a carpet of pink and white flower petals that had been blown from the bushes. It was almost dreamlike to walk through all the flowers. In the tree tops, we heard the constant sweet sound of warblers singing. We even caught a few glimpses of the birds. The ridge is fairly level, so this walking was very easy and pleasant.

Wild Azalea flowers carpeted the forest floor.
Wild Azalea flowers carpeted the forest floor. Pictured below: Many of the azaleas and mountain laurels were still in full bloom.

I had read that the summit of The Priest was a lovely shady place, but didn’t offer much in the way of panoramic views. So, it was much to my surprise and delight to find a worn path through the woods that led to an amazing outcropping of rocks with spectacular views of the entire valley below. Even though it was close to high noon, I loved photographing this spot along the trail. The sky conditions were a photographer’s dream – cerulean blue punctuated with both swishes and puffs of white cloud.

The summit was spectacular.
The summit was spectacular.

Adam and I sat on this spot for a good, long while. We shared a chocolate donut and some water, watched the hawks soar below and took in the valley view. Afterwards, we made the short walk to the actual summit. There was a fat toad sitting right along the trail at the summit. I like to think of him as the official summit marker.

This toad was our summit marker.
This toad was our summit marker.

The hike back down to the car was fun – all downhill – just the way I like it!

Trail Notes

  • Distance – 2.8 miles out-and-back. We also recommend adding the .2 mile trail down to the AT shelter. If you park at Crabtree Meadows, add a mile on to the trail’s total length.
  • Elevation Change – 1,000 feet
  • Difficulty – 2. While the trail does have a moderate elevation change, the uphill is not too tough.  If you have to hike up the fire road from Crabtree Meadows to get to the trailhead, that will be much tougher than anything along the AT.
  • Trail Conditions – 4. Like most of the AT in Virginia, this section is nicely maintained.
  • Views – 4. Gorgeous views of about 150 degrees of views out into the Tye River Valley
  • Waterfalls/streams – 0. None, but there is a small spring-fed water source near the shelter.
  • Wildlife – 1.5. We didn’t see much, but this is wilderness area.  There are lots of nice birds for any ornithologists.  We saw a cerulean warbler, which has such a gorgeous song.
  • Ease to Navigate – 4.5. Just stay on the AT.
  • Solitude –4. Since it is difficult to get to, you may run across some backpackers or AT thru-hikers, but not many others.

Directions to trailhead: The best access to this trail is via VA-826.  If you are approaching from I-81, take exit 205 towards Steeles Tavern.  Take a left on to Rte. 11 and then a quick right on to VA-56 heading east.  Follow this past the Blue Ridge Parkway (near BRP Mile Marker 30) and then take a right shortly after the Fish Hatchery on to VA-826.  There is a sign at the entrance that you need to have four-wheel drive to travel on this road.  It is a bumpy gravel road where you have to cross several small streams.  Once you reach Crabtree Meadows, it is .5 mile before you can reach the AT trailhead to start The Priest trail.  Many cars should be able to get up to Crabtree Meadows, but the last .5 mile should be taken cautiously and done only if you have a confident driver and appropriate vehicle.

Crabtree Falls

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Crabtree Falls is probably Virginia’s best-known waterfall hike. The hike is located a short distance from the Blue Ridge Parkway. The trail climbs alongside the falls and ends at an overlook of the Tye River Valley.

This is the first large cascade you'll encounter on the hike.
This is the first large cascade you’ll encounter on the hike.

Christine Says…

Crabtree Falls, located in George Washington National Forest’s Glenwood & Pedlar Ranger Districts, is one of the classic “must-hike” Virginia trails. When the area is experiencing good amount of rainfall, the 1,200 foot series of falls can be truly impressive.

Adam and I left our house at 5:45 a.m. on the morning of this hike. I wanted to get to the area before the sun started shining into the gorge. Sunny days usually mean crappy waterfall photos. On the morning of our hike, the area was forecast to have quite a bit of fog. I was really excited and had visions of the falls – cascading through the mist, lined with lush, blooming mountain laurel. Unfortunately, it was not to be. When we arrived, the fog was gone, the sun was already high in the sky and the laurel had mostly gone to seed. Nonetheless, I was still able to find a few shady spots along the way to take photographs.

The beautiful arched bridge over the Tye River.
The beautiful arched bridge over the Tye River.

The trailhead is located at the upper parking lot of the Crabtree Falls area. There is a $3.00 fee to use this area. Even though the trail starts from the upper lot, don’t miss walking down to the lower lot to take a walk across the beautiful laminated wooden arch bridge that crosses the Tye River. It was delivered to the area in a single piece and has graced the spot since 1978. Crossing the bridge used to be part of the hike, but improvements to the area expanded parking, added restrooms and shortened the trail.

As you start the hike, don’t neglect reading the bulletin board at the trailhead. It provides many cautionary tales concerning the waterfall’s deadly terrain.  As of June 2015, 29 people have fallen to their deaths at Crabtree Falls – most of them teenagers and young adults. The rocks surrounding the stream are coated with transparent algae. It doesn’t look wet or slippery, but it’s honestly as slick as grease in some spots. The forest service is always warning hikers to stay off waterfalls – but they really mean it at Crabtree.

Adam climbs the steps along the Crabtree Trail.
Adam climbs the steps along the Crabtree Trail.

The first impressive cascade is at the very bottom of the trail and is accessible along a level, paved walkway. The trail to the summit starts on the right side of the paved path, and climbs quickly upward. The trail makes use of steps, railings, wooden walkways and switchbacks to traverse the steep terrain. Some of the switchbacks meander quite a distance from Crabtree Stream, but the sound of rushing water is ever present in the woods. You never move so far from the stream that you can not hear the sound of the waterfall. It’s such a soothing sound. There are five major cascades (and many smaller ones) that make up Crabtree Falls.

The trail is mostly well-graded and maintained. There are a few rocky sections, and some of the rocks may be loose or slippery. On the day we hiked, the trail was really muddy from all the recent rain, but it was still easily passable. I think most of the pretty sections of the falls are within the first three-quarters of the hike. The big, dome-shaped cascade at the top is impressive to see, but it just doesn’t photograph well. At the Tye Valley overlook at the top, you can’t see the falls below you at all. If you hadn’t just walked along the waterfall on your hike, you might not even believe it’s there. The view from the top is just so-so – mostly just tree-covered mountainsides. It pales in comparison to the waterfall views. Most hikers choose to turn around at this point, but you also have the option to continue the hike along the stream, ending up at Crabtree Meadows.

There are discrepancies about the length of this hike. On the internet, I’ve seen it listed everywhere from 2.2 to 4 miles. The on-site plaque at the base of the falls says the hike is two miles to the top, for a total 4 mile out-and-back. Our Blue Ridge Parkway hiking guide lists the hike at 3.4 miles, out-and-back. It seems like the happy medium distance, so we’ll go with that measure.

Adam Says…

The hike along Crabtree Falls is one of the best waterfall hikes, since you hike along the falls for most of the way.  I haven’t experienced any other hike in Virginia that allows you to walk along such an impressive series of falls.

Another beautiful section of falls along the trail.
Another beautiful section of falls along the trail.

This was our second trip to Crabtree Falls.  We were hoping to go in the late spring or early summer for views of mountain laurel along the stream.  It looks like in this area, we just missed the peak by about two weeks or the laurel didn’t bloom as well this year.  When you reach the top of the falls after a 1.7 mile hike, there is a stone platform at the top that provides you with nice views of the Blue Ridge Mountains.

The view from the top.
The view from the top.

Near the entrance to the paved trail you will see a small family cemetery.  These are actually distant relatives of mine.  My great grandmother was a Fitzgerald and owned the farm next to the McCormick Farm.  My mother used to visit that farm often when she was little.  If you are interested in history, the McCormick Farm is open to visitors and has lots of exhibits showing the early farming techniques.  Cyrus McCormick was the inventor of the mechanical reaper which revolutionized farming.

This is a great hike that a lot of families do before picnicking at one of the tables near the lot entrance.  I know we will visit this location time and again.

Trail Notes

  • Distance – 3.4miles out-and-back.
  • Elevation Change – 1000 feet
  • Difficulty – 3. This is a fairly steep trail with plenty of switchbacks.  However, most people will stop along the way to enjoy the falls, so it breaks up the pace.
  • Trail Conditions – 3. There are lots of pointy rocks along part of the trail, but there are some sections that are very nice.  The view to the lower falls is even paved for wheelchair access.
  • Views – 2. At the top of the falls, you get a decent view of the Tye River Valley
  • Waterfalls/streams – 4.5. This is one of the best waterfalls in the Central Virginia area.
  • Wildlife – .5. You probably won’t see anything here other than people.
  • Ease to Navigate – 4.5. Just stay on the trail.
  • Solitude –1. This is an extremely popular hike, so you will surely see people along the way.

Directions to trailhead: If you are approaching from I-81, take exit 205 towards Steeles Tavern.  Take a left on to Rte. 11 and then a quick right on to VA-56 heading east.  Follow this past the Blue Ridge Parkway (near BRP Mile Marker 30).  After a few more miles, you will see the signs for the parking area of Crabtree Falls on your right.  The parking lot loops around and you will see the trailhead and map near the restroom facilities.