Trail Notes

Fox Hollow Loop

Fox Hollow Loop is a short, interpretive hike near the Dickey Ridge Visitor Center that gives you glimpses of life on the mountain.

Lemuel F. Fox Headstone
This hike takes you past an old cemetery. Generations of Foxes are buried in this hollow. Below: The trail starts near the Dickey Ridge Visitor Center; The trailhead has a sign marking different hike options in the area.

Dickey Ridge Visitor Center Trailhead for Fox Hollow

Adam Says…

After we finished our hike to Lands Run Falls, we decided to add another hike – the Fox Hollow Loop.  There is a path, starting near the flagpole, that takes you across Skyline Drive from the Dickey Ridge Visitor Center.  You will see a plaque displaying the hike information and a box where you can purchase a $1 guide to to the hike.  The guide is useful in helping you locate some of the interesting sights along the way.  I would recommend picking this up since it does give a little history of the area and insight into the flora around you on the trail.

From the sign, head to the left.  You will quickly come up to a concrete post where the trail intersects with the blue-blazed Dickey Ridge Trail.  Take a left at the post to join the Dickey Ridge Trail.  At the next concrete post at .3 miles, you will take a right to join the no-blazed Fox Hollow Trail.  The trail descends at this point as you go through the Fox homesite.  You will shortly come across a few rockpiles, created by the Fox family to clear the cornfield.  At .5 miles, you will reach the Fox family cemetery on the left of the trail.  After leaving the cemetery, continue on the trail.  Keep your eyes peeled for a millstone that is hidden in the brush on the side of the trail.   It takes a sharp turn to the right and begins a climb up on a path that used to serve as a road used by the Fox family to get to Front Royal.  At the one mile marker, you will reach another concrete post that intersects with the Dickey Ridge Trail.  Continue straight past the post to reach the Visitor Center at 1.2 miles.

Fox Hollow trail marker
The Fox Hollow Trail is well marked by cement posts. Below: The old box spring used to be the water supply for Dickey Ridge.

Old boxed spring on the Fox Hollow Trail

This hike will attract many visitors as it is one of the first opportunities to hike if approaching from the Front Royal entrance to Shenandoah National Park.  The short distance and mild elevation gain will also attract a lot of people.  It is interesting to think of what life would be like for the Fox family.  Thomas and Martha Fox started farming here in 1856 and the family stayed here until the 1930s.  Most of the trees have been formed since the 1930s, so it is interesting to think of this area as plowed pastures for corn, wheat and bluegrass.

Christine Says…

The Fox Hollow Loop was the second hike we completed on our beautiful fall morning in the park.  The hike started off with a nice view looking toward the valley to the east.  The open meadow was blanketed with dry grasses and ragweed, so it looked golden under the fall sun.

The trail quickly descended into the woods.  The path was lined with dogwoods covered with their bright red seed berries.  Along the trail, we saw piles of stones and old walls sinking back into the forest floor.

Old stone wall in Fox Hollow
There are many old stone walls in Fox Hollow.

Pile of Rocks Headstone in Fox Hollow

We soon passed an old cemetery, where generations of the Fox family have been buried.  Most of the headstones have toppled or have disappeared, but two markers (Lemuel Fox and Gertrue Fox) are still in good shape.  It’s compelling to imagine how different this hollow must have looked in 1900.  Back then, this would have been open farmland – fields, cherry trees, barns, houses, stone walls and a road meandering over to the neighboring hollow.  It must have been a lovely, idyllic place to live.

After leaving the cemetery, we continued downhill and found an old boxed spring.  Apparently, when the park was new, this spring supplied water to the Dickey Ridge lodge.  We passed over a small marshy area and saw more stone walls in an opening off the trail.  There was supposed to a mill stone along the trail, but we never saw it.  We also didn’t see the old barbed wire fencing that was supposedly along the trail.  We weren’t the only hikers to miss spotting the artifacts.  We ran into a group of four women standing in the middle of the trail.  They asked if we had seen either the stone or fence.  I think they were contemplating going back, but we pressed on.

The rest of the trail was a nice walk through the woods and we soon came back to where we had started.

Trail Notes

  • Distance – 1.2 miles
  • Elevation Change – 310 feet
  • Difficulty – 1. The trail should be quite easy for most people.  
  • Trail Conditions –4. The trail is well-maintained and easy to walk on.  It could be muddy in parts after lots of rain.
  • Views1.5. You do get some nice views from the plaque of mountains in the distance, but you won’t see much on the trail.
  • Waterfalls/streams – 0. Non-existent.
  • Wildlife – 2. This is a busy trail, so many animals will stay away, but you may see deer around the area.  The fields near the plaque would be good for bird watching.
  • Ease to Navigate – 3.5. The trail only has a couple of turns near cement posts.  If you read the directions on the posts, you shouldn’t have any problem.
  • Solitude – 2. This is a popular trail for people of all abilities, so you will likely see others on the trail.

Directions to trailhead: Follow Skyline Drive to the Dickey Ridge Visitors Center (around mile marker 4.6)  Park at the visitors center.  The trail begins on the east side of the drive, across from the center.

Lands Run Falls

The hike to Lands Run Falls is a fairly easy 1.6 mile walk down an old park road.  The waterfall is not terribly large or impressive, but it’s definitely worth a look if you’re in the mood for a short leg-stretcher.

Adam sits alongside Lands Run Falls.
Adam sits alongside Lands Run Falls.  The falls were still a little on the low side despite five inches of recent rain.

Christine Says…

We planned to do a long hike on Saturday, but Adam was having knee trouble.  Instead, we waited until Sunday and decided to try doing a few short, gentle hikes in the north district of Shenandoah National Park.   It’s been several years since I ventured as far north in the park as Lands Run Falls, so it was a nice change of pace.

The walk to the waterfall stays on a wide gravel road the entire time, so the footing is easy and there is absolutely no place you can possibly take a wrong turn.  The only place you might go wrong is by hiking across the top of the waterfall and missing it completely.  The falls aren’t marked and they’re really not visible from the trail.  You’ll know you’ve reached the falls when you pass over a small stream and culvert. You can also follow the sounds of  falling water!

To get a good look at the falls, you’ll need to follow a worn path through the woods down into the ravine.  It’s a fairly well-worn path, and the rocks in the ravine sort of form big steps.  Be careful on the rocks immediately around the waterfall.  They’re very slick and covered with moss and algae.

Lands Run in Winter
The last time I visited Lands Run Falls it was winter and there had been quite a bit more rain.

If you hit Lands Run Falls when there has been lots of rain, you’ll be treated to a pretty waterfall with three small, but distinct drops.  The first drop of about 20 feet is the most accessible and the most photogenic.  The other two drops are mostly obscured by blow-downs and underbrush.  If the weather has been dry, Lands Run Falls probably is not worth your time.  It frequently dries up completely in the summer.

In Henry Heatwole’s well-known Guide to Shenandoah National Park and Skyline Drive,  he stated “This [Lands Run Falls] is an unrewarding experience for most people… This is for the very few hikers who are willing to go to a lot of trouble to find solitude beside a pool on a mountain stream.”

I wouldn’t characterize Lands Run Falls quite so grimly.  I mean, it’s not spectacular – but it is definitely worth seeing if the water flow has been nice.

Adam Says…

We started off with this as our first of three short hikes for the day.  I was battling some knee issues and Christine thought we should turn around because I was limping the first few steps.  I felt I could make it though and luckily my knee felt better on the trip back up from the falls.

You descend 310 feet during this walk down the fire road.  While it doesn’t seem quite as noticeable on the way down, you will feel the elevation change on the way back up.  Most people should be able to do this hike, but you may need to take your time if the steepness gets to you.

Once you reach the area of the falls, to get the views that we did, you do need to climb down a steep section off the trail that can be slippery.  I was able to do it on a bad knee, but you do have to watch your feet carefully.  The fire road continues further for another 1.4 miles past the falls, but that only leads to a park boundary and there is nothing of interest to see.

The day was quite brisk with temperatures in the upper 40s.  I initially wished that I had brought a fleece along, but once the blood got pumping I was fine in my T-shirt and shorts.  The leaves were just starting to turn color – I think we’re still two weeks before peak season on Skyline Drive and higher elevations.

Lands Run Fire Road
The Lands Run Fire Road descends about 300 vertical feet over .6 of a mile to the falls.

The trail was a nice quick view to a waterfall.  I believe it is a somewhat popular trail, but that is largely due to the number of people that are driving down from Northern Virginia and are looking for a close waterfall hike.  The falls themselves are pretty but they are not as impressive as many others in the park.

Trail Notes

  • Distance – 1.6 miles out and back
  • Elevation Change – Around 300 feet
  • Difficulty – 2. Relatively easy, but definitely uphill on the return trip
  • Trail Conditions – 4.5 The trail is a well-maintained fire road
  • Views0.  The trail stays in the woods and does not offer any panoramic views
  • Waterfalls/streams – 3. Lands Run Falls is small but pretty.  It does dry up when there hasn’t been much rain
  • Wildlife – 2. You’ll likely see the usual park specimens along this trail – birds, squirrels and deer
  • Ease to Navigate – 4. The fire road doesn’t have any turns.  Be careful not to miss the falls – you walk over a small stream and the waterfall cascades below the trail.
  • Solitude – 3.  We saw a couple groups, but for a beautiful fall day, the traffic was light.

Directions to trailhead: Follow Skyline Drive to mile marker 9.2.  Park in the lot on the west side of the drive.  The hike starts at the south end of the lot.

Greenbrier River Trail – Cass to Marlinton (WV)

The Greenbrier River Trail is a rails-to-trails bike path that meanders 78 miles along the Greenbrier River in West Virginia. This portion we biked was about 25 miles from Cass to the little town of Marlinton.

Biking the Greenbrier River Trail
Adam crosses Sharps Bridge on the Greenbrier River Trail. Below:  Due to drought conditions, the Greenbrier River was very low;  Trail signs mark each entry to the trail; The Clover Lick Depot is one of the old train stops you’ll pass on the trail.

Adam on the River Greenbrier River Trail Sign with Bike Clover Lick Depot

Adam Says…

Our main reason for staying around the Marlinton, WV area was to do some biking on the Greenbrier River trail.  A few friends of mine that had done the Virginia Creeper Trail told me that we should do the Greenbrier River Trail sometime.  The trail was very similar to the Virginia Creeper.  They are both rails-to-trails biking trails and don’t take a ton of cardio effort or biking skills to complete.  The scenery may have been a little nicer along the Virginia Creeper; with mountain views and lots of bridges and trestles. However, the Greenbrier trail lacks the dense crowds that you find on the Virginia Creeper.  You’ll have lots of solitude on this trail, but there are also fewer amenities along the way (other than occasional restrooms at campsites).  Christine and I really enjoy the solitude more than anything, so it was great to get away for a nice, quiet, long bike ride.

We started our day with a car shuttle up to the northern terminus of the trail near Cass, WV.  We arranged the shuttle through Appalachian Sport.  We were the only people signed up for the shuttle, so we were able to arrange our own time.  It was nice to talk to our driver (wish we caught his name) about his impressions of the trail.  He was actually the one that gave us the news that JMU beat Virginia Tech in football.  We had been completely “off the grid” for a few days without any cellphone service, TV, or internet. We actually thought he was joking the first time he told us that JMU won.

Low Water Levels on the Greenbrier River
Water levels were very low on the Greenbrier River.  Below:  The trail follows the river for almost all of its 78 miles; Adam bikes along the crushed stone trail; A view of the lovely river.

The Greenbrier River Trail follows the river. Biking Along the Trail Greenbrier River Scenery

He frequently runs on the trail and told us about his goal to organize a Greenbrier River Challenge t0 raise funds with sponsorships for people to run the entire length of the trail.  A friend of mine from work is one of the few known people to run the entire trail in a single effort (I think he and a couple friends did all 78 miles in a little over 16 hours).  Our shuttle driver also told us that many people find the area between Cass and Marlinton to be the prettiest, but he thinks the entire trail is nice (with the exception of the more populated area between Marlinton and Seebert).

After being dropped off in the parking lot at the Northern Terminus of Slabtown (.5 miles from the town of Cass, WV), we got our gear together and headed down the trail.  Mile markers are posted along the way to help you plan your distance along the trail.  There are also slabs with the letter “W” along the trail, which were used by railroad engineers to know when to blow the whistle when they were approaching road crossings.  The first notable stop along the way is about 9.4 miles in when you reach the Clover Lick Depot.  This depot was built in the early 1900s and was recently renovated.  At mile 14.6, you will reach the Sharp’s tunnel and bridge.  The tunnel is 511 feet long and the bridge immediately after the tunnel is 229 feet long.  If you’re interested in parking your bike for a brief rest, right before the entrance to the tunnel there is a path to the left that leads down to the riverside. There is also a steep, slippery path up to the top of the tunnel for the more adventurous.  At mile 23.9, you will reach the water tank on the outskirts of Marlinton.  Shortly after you pass the water tank , you will reach the Marlinton Depot at mile 24.3.  The depot burned to the ground in 2008 and there are plans to have it rebuilt.  You can then bike a short distance back to where you left your vehicle.

Sharps Tunnel
The Sharps Tunnel is dark and deep!  Below:  Adam stands atop the tunnel entry;  By mid-day, big puffy clouds breezed into the sky.

Adam on top the Tunnel Entry Pretty Clouds Over the Greenbrier River

If you are interested in doing any geoaching along the bike trail, you can find a few along the way:

We definitely enjoyed our ride on the trail and I hope to come back at some point to try out some other sections of this trail.

Christine Says…

We had a great bike ride along the Greenbrier River Trail (GRT)!  I already can’t wait to go back and bike the remaining 53 miles.  Rails-to-trails riding is so pleasant and leisurely.  I love not having to worry about cars running me off the road.

If you’re going to bike a segment of the GRT, definitely look into arranging a shuttle. Typically, you leave your car at the end point, and the shuttle ferries you and your bikes to your start point. This allows you to bike a long section without having to retrace the trail to get back to your car.  You can also take your time exploring because you don’t have a set time to meet your ride at the end of your trip.  Shuttle companies are also a great source for trail tips – where to camp, where to eat, places to stop for water, etc.  We used Appalachian Sport, but there are several other shuttle companies in the area.

A View of Sharps Bridge
A View of Sharps Bridge.  Can you spot Christine on the trestle?  Below: A primitive campsite along the trail; Adam drives the old wagon; A few early hints of fall were evident in the trees along the trail.

Campsite Along the Trail Adam Driving the Old Wagon Biking Along

We met our shuttle at 8:30, loaded up our bikes and headed off on our 45-minute van ride to Cass.  The morning was still cool with thick mist lifting off the river.  Fall is definitely in the air!  We passed through Cass Scenic Railroad State Park on our way to the northern end of the GRT. Cass is near Snowshoe Mountain.  The area offers so many options for outdoor fun – skiing, mountain biking, canoeing, scenic railroads, fishing, hiking, etc.

By 9:30, we were off and pedaling along the trail.  For several miles, we followed along the river – no sign of roads, people or houses.  It was wonderful!  The river was really low, but it was still gorgeous.  Every now and then, a deer would bound across the trail or go splashing across the river.  The fog burned off and opened up to crystalline clear blue skies – not a cloud in site.  Early splashes of fall color were already evident in the trees along the trail.

We passed a couple trailside campsites.  The GRT is also popular with equestrians, so campsites all included hitching posts. If I still had my horse, this would definitely be a dream ride!  Several of the campsites even had privies.

Occasionally, the trail passes by developed areas.  But “development” in this section of West Virginia usually means a few houses clustered along a quiet country road.  We passed a barn with equestrian services advertised on the building side.  They also had an old horse cart that Adam couldn’t resist.  We passed the Clover Lick Depot.  I think this area was probably a lot busier when the train was still running.  The depot building was really cute and had recently been restored.  Sadly, it’s not being used for anything.  I bet it would make a great trailside gift and snack shop, but I also bet it would be nearly impossible for a shop to stay in business along the GRT.  In the entire 25 miles we biked, I think we saw 6 people all day long.  With such low traffic, amenities will never spring up along this trail like they have along the Virginia Creeper.

One of my favorite things we passed along – or shall I say through – was the old Sharps Tunnel.  When we arrived at the tunnel opening, Adam scrambled up the hill to the top of the tunnel opening.  You can smell the inside of the mountain emanating from the tunnel.  It’s a hard smell to describe – the best I can describe is like a cool wind carrying the scent of tar, dampness and earth.  The tunnel is over 500 feet long and follows a curve.  This means that there is a section in the middle where there is absolutely no ambient light.  It is 100% completely pitch black and eerie as the grave.  For a few moments, I lost all sense of up, down, forward and backward.  It was like biking in space!  I shrieked with a mix of fear and giddiness until my bike hit light again.  It was really fun, but if you’re afraid of the dark or an uncertain biker, you might want to have a light on your bike or carry a headlamp in your bag.

There were a bunch of state park employees eating lunch on the other side of the tunnel.  I think they all heard me screaming in the tunnel, because they looked at me oddly.  Oh well…  I hope they were entertained.  As soon as you come out of the tunnel, you pass over the Sharps Bridge, which crosses the Greenbrier River on a tall trestle.

Baby Chipmunk
We spotted a couple of frightened baby chipmunks along the trail.  Below: Another view of Sharps Bridge; the Greenbrier River; The other baby chipmunk we spotted.  I hope they survived.

Another look at the trestle and Sharps Bridge Greenbrier River View The other chipmunk

Shortly after crossing the bridge, I saw a tiny animal dart across the trail – barely missing Adam’s bike wheels.  It was as small as a field mouse.  I braked when I saw the tiny creature still sitting along the trailside.  It turned out to be a tiny baby chipmunk.  It was too young to be away from the nest, and the mother chipmunk was nowhere in site.  We made sure the little guy was safely off the trail and headed on our way.  As Adam was walking back to his bike, he almost stepped on another baby chipmunk.  This one was sitting in the middle of the trail, trembling in fear.  We made sure the other chipmunk was safely off the trail and nestled under some leaves before we biked on.  I hope those little chipmunks somehow found some way to survive.  😦

Chipmunks and deer were not the only wildlife we saw along the way.  We also saw a couple different kinds of snakes.  One snake was the largest black snake I’ve ever seen!  He was lying half on and half off the trail, clearly in a state of torpor from the chilly weather.  At first, I thought it was a toy rubber snake that someone had tossed along the trail.  It didn’t move at all when I nudged it with a stick.  I pushed it again, and I noticed the body slowly constricting.  The stick I had was an old fallen tree branch – about eight feet long.  I pushed the snake again to get it off the trail, but this time the snake completely coiled up; raising its upper body off the ground and flicking its tongue at me.  He was still really slow and stiff, but definitely awake! Adam, who was sitting on his bike 50 feet away, wanted nothing to do with the snake at all.  Finally, I managed to push the snake completely off the trail into the grass.  Hopefully, he slithered away when the sunshine of the day warmed him up.  Later in the day, we saw another snake basking in the sun in the middle of the trail, but he moved out of the way really quickly.

Huge Black Snake
We saw this sleepy (but angry) black snake on the trail. Below:  Near Marlinton, we saw old farm buildings and fields; The old water tank;  The burned Marlinton depot; Adam checks out the inside of the train.

Old Farm Building Water Tank near Marlinton
Burned Marlinton Depot Adam Checks out the Train

The last few miles of the trail passed through more open terrain.  We saw fields and old abandoned farm buildings.  Shortly thereafter, we passed a huge water tank – the only one left standing along the trail.  Trains used to stop at this spot to fill up.  By the time you get to the water tank, the GRT switches from a crushed stone surface to paved.  The paved section is about five miles long.

In a few minutes, we were back in Marlinton at the old train depot.  The depot used to be the town visitor’s center, but as Adam mentioned, it burned down a few years ago.  We took a few minutes to climb aboard the old train car at the depot before heading back to our car.

After loading up, we had a delicious lunch at the Greenbrier Grille.  They had great sandwiches (I recommend the Steak & Mozzarella!) and a lovely deck overlooking the river.  We ate lunch to the sound of honking ducks in the river below.  The restaurant has a large menu of homemade desserts, but we were too full from the sandwiches.

The next day, we were on our way back to Virginia, but we’ll definitely be visiting Pocahontas County again!

Trail Notes

  • Distance – 24.3 miles
  • Elevation Change – Negligible.  Hardly any elevation change.
  • Difficulty – 2. While the biking is not difficult, the distance might be a little much for some people.  Hiking or biking it should be fairly easy.
  • Trail Conditions – 4.5 The trail is very well-maintained.
  • Views3.  The trail is scenic through most of the trail with views of the river most of the time.
  • Waterfalls/streams – 2. The path runs along Wilson Creek for part of the trip and the Greenbrier River for most of the trip.
  • Wildlife – 2.5 We saw deer a few times on the trail and in the river.  We also spotted some baby chipmunks, a blue heron, a couple snakes and some geese.
  • Ease to Navigate – 4.5. Just stay on the bike trail.  A few spots run parallel with other driveways/roads, but you shouldn’t have trouble if you stay on the trail.
  • Solitude – 3.  We were surprised with how few people were on the trail biking.  I think we only saw 6 people biking on the trail the entire day.

Directions to trailhead: The actual trailhead is located off Route 66/Back Mountain Road near Cass, WV.  There are clear signs to direct you to the trail.

View a Google Map of the Route

Thomas Reserve – Cowpasture – Cranberry Glades Loop (WV)

This nine-mile loop offers glimpses of area history, great views of the tundra and peeks at distant mountains.

Meadow on the Cowpasture Trail
The trail offered many beautiful meadow views.  Below: Adam checks out the sign at the entry to the Cranberry Glades boardwalk; The old Mill Point Federal Prison used to sit along the present-day Cowpasture Trail; The Thomas Reserve Trail is lined with ferns; A view of the Glades boardwalk.

Entry to the Cranberry Glades Boardwalk
Thomas Reserve Trail The Glades Boardwalk

Christine Says…

The morning did not start well.  We drove into Marlinton, WV before our hike to make some reservations for a bike shuttle.  Once we were in town, we learned that Verizon wireless was not available anywhere in the area (and I really needed to check in on a family emergency).  We couldn’t find anyone that sold pre-paid phone cards in all of Marlinton.  When we did find a phone card, we couldn’t find a pay phone that worked. Apparently, the only pay phone that works in all of Pocahontas County is at the hospital.  After filling up at a BP station, the “service engine” light came on in our car and the gas gauge stopped working.  (Can I blame BP for that?)  Finally, to top everything off, we couldn’t find the trailhead for this hike.  In the end, it all turned out OK, as it usually does.  We ended up hiking a couple extra miles, but on a beautiful, cool, blue-sky day… that’s not a bad thing!

Our original plan was to hike the 7.1 mile Cowpasture Loop which encircles the entire Cranberry Glades Botanical Area and crosses into the beautiful, wild Cranberry Wilderness.  But, the trailhead was not marked and the map we had did have enough detail to indicate the exact location.  We ended up parking at the Thomas Reserve trailhead, instead.  We knew this trail would intersect the Cowpasture Loop after about a mile or so.

This rock ledge along the Thomas Reserve Trail is probably a pretty waterfall when the stream isn’t dry. Below: The trailhead for the Thomas Reserve trail; Trails were adequately marked.

Thomas Reserve Trail Trail Sign

I’m really glad we went this way, because the Thomas Reserve Trail took us past some beautiful and interesting scenery.  There were ruins that looked like some kind of old pool or water treatment facility.  The concrete basin and pillars were still intact, along with several large pipes with wheels attached.  I did a quick Google search to try and figure out exactly what the ruins are, but I didn’t have much luck.  From that point, the trail passes through beautiful fern-carpeted forest and past a dry stream.  The stream has an interesting rock ledge/cave that I think probably makes a lovely, small waterfall when water is actually running.  Eventually, the path intersects an old road that is part of the Cowpasture Loop.

After a short walk along the old road, the trail opens up into a gorgeous open meadow with views of the mountains in the distance.  This is the site of the old Mill Point Federal Prison.  Even though the buildings were all torn down in the late 1950s and early 1960s, you can still see some leftover signs of the site – there are bits of road left, abandoned stairs to nowhere, an old well.   There is also a series of informational signs that include old photos and talk about life at the prison.  Apparently, it was a prison without walls or gates.  Prisoners were treated to weekly movies and could spend their afternoons hiking in the area.  I guess you could say it was very low security! We stayed at the prison site long enough to read the signs and enjoy the meadow view.

After the meadow, the trail climbed back into the forest, following rolling ups and downs for a couple miles.  We saw lots of bear scat and several deer leaping across the trail.  We crossed a small dry stream shortly before passing out into another wide open area.  The meadows along this trail were really overgrown.  The ragweed and other plants were shoulder-height and constantly batted me in the face as I walked the trail.  Even so, the meadow areas of this hike were spectacular!  This section in particular offered beautiful views of Kennison Mountain.

Beaver Dam on the Cranberry River
We got a nice view of a beaver dam on the Cranberry River. Below; The bridge over the Cranberry River.

Bridge over the Cranberry River

The trail dips down to the South Fork of the Cranberry River.  This crossing had a pretty arched bridge and a great look at an active beaver dam.  There were crabapple trees everywhere – so I was really wondering if we’d eventually see a bear.  We never did – just the deer and a very angry red squirrel.

From the river, the trail ascends to a ridge and follows a series of gentle ups and downs.  We passed several beaver ponds and got nice looks at the bogs and glades the area is known for.  One pond even has an elevated wooden platform to view the area.  Because of the dry months we’ve had lately, the ground was much dryer than it should be.  The ponds were so low, I wondered if the resident beavers were able to swim at all.  While we were passing one of the ponds, we heard a huge tree come crashing to the ground someplace nearby.  It must have been a monster tree – it sounded like gunshots as it splintered and fell to the ground with a huge KABOOM.

Just before coming out on FS Road 102, the trail passes over another pretty arched bridge.  The walk along 102 is completely level and pretty uneventful.  You’ll pass a gate and the board marking the entry to Cranberry Wilderness.  The area looks fantastic for backpacking – lots of loops and shelter options.  We’re already talking about making a three day trip sometime in the spring.

After crossing the chain gate, the walk is along the developed portion of 102.  Cars passed by and the walking was really boring.  When we got to the Cranberry Glades Boardwalk, we decided to add the .6 mile loop onto our larger loop.  The boardwalks pass through a beautiful open bog area.  If you visit the right time of year, you can even see carnivorous pitcher plants.

After the quick turn along the boardwalk, we walked the last mile along the paved road back to our car. By the time we got back, I was pretty tired and hungry and was looking forward to making homemade pizza for dinner back at our Watoga State Park cabin.  Although the day got off to an inauspicious start, it really turned out to be perfect.

Adam says…

Christine had suggested this hike to me when we were planning our trip to Watoga State Park and I’m so glad that she suggested it.  This hike is one of my favorites that we’ve done this year.  It has some interesting history and the open views of tundra are nothing short of beautiful.

Ruins on the Thomas Reserve Trail
We saw these mysterious ruins along the Thomas Reserve Trail.  Below: The Thomas Reserve trail begins; An old well at the prison ruins site.

Thomas Reserve trailsign Old well at the prison ruins

We had trouble finding the start of the hike, since the trailhead for the start of the Cowpasture Loop was not marked.  We saw a sign for the Thomas Reserve trail and I could tell from our map that it hooked up with the Cowpasture Loop.  The Thomas Reserve Trail starts bisecting a field, but quickly moves into woods.  At about .6 miles, we saw the pillars of the old “pool” that Christine mentioned off to the right of the trail.  The trail continues for another .4 miles through the woods until it comes to a sign.

Take a right here to get on to the Cowpasture Loop.  The trail is quite level at this point as you move through a field with great views of the tundra around you.  Here, and in some places throughout the entire loop, there may be tall plants that you have to push aside, but you shouldn’t need to bushwhack.  As you’re passing through the tundra area, you may notice several bluebird boxes.  The trail begins to turn towards the left and then opens up to more of a clearing.  You will see posts that give information about the Mill Point Federal Prison camp and life for the inmates.  You will then come to a sign around mile 1.5.  Take a left here to stay on the Cowpasture Loop.  This will loop back around the tundra, paralleling Charlies Creek, and then goes back into the woods.    You will start to reach some footbridges around the two mile mark that take you above some marshy areas.

A view of the Glades Boardwalk
The glades boardwalk is a pleasant .6 mile walk around the bog. Below: The walk along the forest road wasn’t that exciting; Once we got back to the paved portion of 102, there were some pretty scenes along the road.

Forest Service Road 102 The walk back to the car

After this point, you will begin to climb slightly up.  At the height of this gradual hill, you will begin to see views of Kennison Mountain.  At mile 3.5, the trail then takes a sharp left (marked by an arrow on a sign) and descends again.  This area was quite overgrown, but the trail was still clearly visible.  The trail tends to alternate at this point from going through areas of marshy glades to trails through the woods with slight ups and downs in elevation.  At mile 5.7, you will see a destroyed sign where there is a side path of about 100 yards to an observation deck.  This would be an excellent spot for birding.  At mile 6.4, the trail connects again to FS 102.  Take a left on the fire road until you reach the gate at mile 6.6.  At mile 7.3, you will reach the parking lot for the Cranberry Glades Boardwalk loop.  This loop is only about .5 miles and I would highly recommend it.  There are interpretive signs along the boardwalk and it does give some more wonderful views throughout the loop.  Once you complete the loop, just walk back up FS 102 to reach your car.

There are also a few geocaches along this loop:

Trail Notes

  • Distance –9 mile loop
  • Elevation Change – 200 feet
  • Difficulty 3. This is really an easy hike, but we’ll give it a 3 due to the longer length.
  • Trail Conditions 2.5. The trail was largely passable, but very overgrown.  Several bridges over streams were broken and rotted through.
  • Views –3. You get some nice views of the mountains and great views of the glades/tundra.
  • Waterfalls/streams 3. In times with normal to higher precipitation, this trail has great views of streams, ponds and the Cranberry River.
  • Wildlife 4.  We saw deer, signs of bears, active beaver dams, red squirrels and many kinds of birds.
  • Ease to Navigate 3.  Once you find the trailhead, the trail is relatively easy to follow.
  • Solitude 4.  Outside the popular boardwalk area, you probably won’t see a soul!

Directions to trailhead: From Mill Point, WV head west of WV 39/55.  After about 7 miles, you will find a sign for the Cranberry Glades area on your right (FS 102).  Head down this road for one mile until you reach the trailhead for the Thomas Reserve trailhead.

Falls of Hills Creek (WV)

The Falls of Hills Creek is a popular trail that (should) give you views of three plunging waterfalls in a short distance.  The trail is in need of some serious maintenance, as the lower – and most impressive – falls are completely inaccessible due to a collapsed boardwalk (as of fall 2010).

Bridge Over Hills Creek
While the waterfalls were practically non-existent due to very little rain for the past few months, the trail was still pretty. Below: We climbed many stairs and saw very little waterfall action; the Middle Falls were practically dry – the Upper Falls were completely dry and we didn’t even bother with photos; The path was scattered with fall leaves.

Many Stairs Middle Falls Path

Adam Says…

In planning our trip down to West Virginia, we had seen great pictures of the Falls of Hills Creek and thought it would be worth checking out.

The trail starts from the parking lot on a paved path and begins to descend.  The trail winds around while it descends.  At .3 miles, you come to your first overlook of the 25 foot Upper Falls.  You can’t really get great looks of the falls from the overlook, but we could tell there was not a lot of water flowing.  After this overlook, the trail continues on crushed gravel.  At .5 miles, you will come to an overlook that gives you nice views of the 45 foot Middle Falls from above.

Metal Steps
Many metal stairs lead to the lower viewing point for the middle falls. Below: Benches are available along the way if you need a rest; We saw a newt on the damp pathway; BUMMER!  The trail is closed off before we even get a view of the waterfall.

Bench Newt Bummer!

After you leave the platform, you will descend a metal stairwell that goes down several flights.  At the bottom of the stairwell, the trail continues on a boardwalk.  To the right is a short boardwalk path that gives you nice views of the Middle Falls from the bottom of the falls.  Go back up the boardwalk and take the path straight ahead that leads to the view to the Lower Falls.  Unfortunately, there has been some damage from last year’s winter storm on this last section of the trail, so the boardwalk was closed.  Even though the Lower Falls are supposed to be the most impressive with a 63 feet drop, we weren’t able to get to a place to see them.  Return the way that you came to complete the 1.8 mile out-and-back.  The way back includes a lot of stair climbing, so you will get a workout.

There are two geocaches located here:

The dry summer for the last month really hurt our ability to see these falls at the most impressive.  I’m guessing that the work on the Lower Falls will not be completed until the spring/summer of 2011 (at the earliest), so I would wait until this is done to visit this series.  The Lower Falls are considered the second highest cataract falls in West Virginia.

Christine Says…

I’m a little ambivalent about including this hike on our blog because I don’t feel like we saw what the hike really has to offer. It’s hard to be enthusiastic and share information about a waterfall hike when the waterfalls are mostly dry, and one is not even accessible.  But, the Falls of Hills Creek seem to be perennially popular, even in its diminished state.

We did this hike the afternoon we arrived in Pocohontas County.  It was a cloudy, dreary, drizzly day.  I figured if there were any water left in the falls, this weather would be ideal for taking long exposure shots of the water.  Even though the photos didn’t work out, the trail was still quite pretty.  I enjoyed the cool, damp day and walking though the lush green of the woods.  We got some good exercise in climbing the many stairs along the trail.

Signs of Fall
Signs of fall were all along the trail. Below:  Tiny wildflowers along the trail; The foreboding sign that made us carry 40 pounds of camera gear.

Wildflowers Threatening Sign

The one thing I found mildly disconcerting were the “thief alert” signs we found along the trail.  When we walked down, I had all my camera gear and laptop in the car (unusual for me!)  After I saw the sign, I took the route of paranoia and decided to carry everything with us.  Adam carried the big backpack with the laptop and I carried the cameras and the tripod.  It was kind of a shame, because we hardly used any of the gear we carried.

I would love to see the Falls of Hills Creek again sometime when the water is flowing and the lower falls are open.  Until then, I’ll reserve final judgment on this hike.

Trail Notes

  • Distance – 1.8 miles out and back
  • Elevation Change – 600 feet
  • Difficulty 2.  Just due to the stair-master quality of the hike, it’s not for everyone.
  • Trail Conditions 4.5. The trail is paved, then crushed gravel, and some boardwalk areas.
  • Views –0. Not really any views other than waterfalls.
  • Waterfalls/streams 3.5 There wasn’t any water in the falls, but normally this would be great for waterfalls.
  • Wildlife 0.  The trail is too populous to really attract wildlife.
  • Ease to Navigate 5.  Just straight down a paved path and back.
  • Solitude 1.  You should see people along this trail.

Directions to trailhead: From Mill Point, WV head west of WV 39/55.  After about 12 miles, you will find a sign for the Falls of Hills Creek scenic area on your left that leads to a parking lot.  The trail takes off from the left side of the parking lot.

Massanutten Story Book Trail

The view from the Massanutten Story Book Trail involves a short quarter-mile walk down a paved pathway.

Story Book View
The view from the Story Book trail overlooks 211 and the Page Valley. Below: The trailhead is marked by a large sign; Along the path, there is a series of interpretive signs that describe the geology and flora of the area.

Story Book Trailhead Interpretive Sign

Christine Says…

The Massanutten Story Book Trail is one of those ridiculously short path-walks that we personally wouldn’t consider a hike.  Nonetheless, it goes to one of the nicer viewpoints in the Shenandoah Valley. Sure… you can see the Battle Creek Landfill and a distant Walmart, but you can also see the mountains that make up Shenandoah National Park and pretty much all of the Page Valley.  It’s a beautiful spot.

To get to the view, just stroll down the level pathway for a quarter mile.  At the end of the paved trail, you’ll come to an observation platform.  It’s railed in and has several benches to rest upon.  But, for an even better view, don’t miss following a rocky footpath to the right of the platform.  It leads to a rock shelf overlooking the valley.  The rocks that make up the ledge have the most fascinating texture.

Curvy Walkway
One of the beautiful curved, wooden walkways.  Below:  At the end of the paved pathway, there is a platform from which to take in the view; Christine’s Mom and Dad take in the view (You can see our shadows, too!).

Observation Platform Taking in the View

It looks like a lot of work/money has gone into cleaning up the Story Book Trail recently.  The interpretive signs that had faded or been covered with graffiti have been replaced (although new graffiti is already showing up – seriously people, stop crapping up the outdoors… it’s disrespectful and stupid).  The path looked like it had been repaved not too long ago.  But, best of all, someone cleaned all the paint off the rock ledges that lie off the trail.

Adam Says…

Christine’s parents came down on a Sunday to meet up with us.  We decided to take them on a couple of short hikes with great views.  The first we did was Woodstock Tower and we finished it off with the Massanutten Story Book Trail.  This trail is one of the easiest you will find, since the path is paved most of the way, with some beautiful wooden walkways in a few parts.  Since it is also wheelchair accessible, just about anyone should be able to enjoy the views you will find here.

Adam on the Ledge
Adam enjoys the view from the ledge.  Below:  The path is paved; Some sections are traversed by beautiful curved bridges.

Paved Pathway Curved Pathways

The trail also works as an interpretive trail, with many plaques to read along the way that give a great description of the geologic forces that have created the mountains in this area.  There are two geocaches along this trail and one of these requires answers from the signs along the way.

Christine and I often say that some of the areas of George Washington National Forest lead to better views than you get through hikes in Shenandoah National Park and this trail is great evidence of this statement.  If you haven’t done this one before and enjoy great views with little effort, this is a trail for you.

Trail Notes

  • Distance – .5 miles out and back
  • Elevation Change – negligible
  • Difficulty 1.  This trail is for everyone – paved for strollers and handicap accessible.
  • Trail Conditions 5. The official trail is paved.  You can leave the trail and scramble on the rocks for another view.
  • Views –5. Amazing views!
  • Waterfalls/streams 0. No streams/waterfalls.
  • Wildlife 0.  The trail is too populous to really attract wildlife.
  • Ease to Navigate 5.  Just straight down a paved path and back.
  • Solitude 0.  You’ll see many people along this trail.

Directions to trailhead:
Reach the trailhead by turning on to Crisman Hollow Road (FD 274) off of 211 near Luray. Continue on this road for about a mile and park in a small lot off to the right.  A wooden footbridge and trail marker will signify the start of the trail.

Woodstock Tower

The Woodstock Tower hike is a fairly easy hike in the Lee Ranger District of George Washington National Forest that leads to a fire tower with 360-degree views of the surrounding area.

View from Woodstock Tower
The view from the Woodstock Tower is panoramic - offering views of the valley, river and distant mountains. Below: A wider view includes the mountains; It really wasn't the best time of day to photograph the actual tower -- I had to shoot right into the sun; The inside of the tower is covered with graffiti.

A wider view Tower Sunburst Inside the Tower

Adam Says…

After parking in the Little Fort Campground area, we headed up for our hike to Woodstock Tower.  The white-blazed Wagon Road/Nature Trail starts off as a rough fire road and after .1 mile, intersects with Peters Mill Run.  Peters Mill Run is an ATV/OHV trail, so look both ways before crossing this popular trail for ATVs and motorcycles.  Continue straight across Peters Mill Run to connect to the trail again.  The trail does go steadily up with a few switchbacks, but the switchbacks really make the trail easier of a climb.  The first switchback comes in around .25 miles and the second switchback comes around .5 miles.  After the second switchback, the trail does become steeper, but it ends after just a couple tenths of a mile.  At .7 miles, take a left on the pink-blazed Tower Trail.  It is only about .2 miles to reach the tower on a fairly level trail.

The Woodstock Tower
The Woodstock Tower. Below: A little bit of fall color was already showing; We took a break for water where the short trail meets up with the longer trail; Looking up through the Woodstock Tower.

A little fall foliage Water Stop Looking up through the tower

When we reached the tower, we climbed up the metal stairs to reach the top.  I’m not a big fan of heights, but I’m especially nervous when it involves man-made things.  The tower did seem quite sturdy, but it makes some noises when railings move slightly, so I was more eager to get down from the tower than the rest of Christine’s family.  The views are nice, but the area is quite crowded.  Unless you went up early in the morning, I fear that it would be hard to have a moment’s peace at the top.  There aren’t any signs posted for maximum number of people on the tower and you may have to hug the side of a platform as people pass in opposite directions.

There are a few geocaches in the nearby area:

Christine Says…

This was the second time I’ve been to the Woodstock Tower.  Last time I was there was several years ago in mid-October.  I remember the fall foliage being amazing from atop the tower. This time, the foliage had just the slightest hint of change, but the day was crystal clear and sunny – not a bit of haze – so the view was extra nice.

There are shorter ways to get to the view.  In fact, you can practically drive right up to it.  However, we chose to hike up from the Little Fort campground instead.   The slightly longer route gave my mom a chance to try out her new hiking boots.

Off Highway Vehicle
The area has lots of ATV and dirt bike trails. Below: All the roads and trails in this area are well-marked.

Wagon Road Campground Sign

Because the day was so beautiful, we had to share the tower with crowds of people.  At times, there was actually a line of people waiting to get to the top.  We even saw a person trying to coax their pit bull up the open, metal stairs.  That didn’t go so well, and they had to turn back about halfway to the top.  The inside of the tower is covered with graffiti and the area is littered with broken beer bottles and empty soda cans – a very unfortunate side effect of its popularity.

Despite the tower’s less-than-pristine nature, it still offers one of the best views of the mountains in the area.  It’s well worth the short walk.

Trail Notes

  • Distance – 2 miles
  • Elevation Change – about 500 feet
  • Difficulty –2. While you would think that going up 500 feet in one mile would be steep, the trail up seems to take off a lot of the steep terrain.
  • Trail Conditions – 3. The trail had some loose ground in a few areas (especially in the first .1 mile), but overall was well-maintained.
  • Views – 4.5. It does have 360-degree views, but we always enjoy views from natural surroundings like rock outcrops over man-made towers.
  • Waterfalls/streams 0. Non-existent.
  • Wildlife – 2. Too many people to see anything other than people.  May be good for hawk spotting or some other woodland birds.
  • Ease to Navigate – 4.  Not too many turns on this one and trails are well-labeled.
  • Solitude – 1. You will see lots of people on this trail during a nice day.

Directions to trailhead:
We approached this from I-81.  There are other ways to the east to approach this, but here is the most common way for anyone traveling via interstate.  Take exit 283 on I-81, heading east on 42.  Stay on 42 until it intersects with US 11.  Take a left on US 11, heading north through the town of Woodstock.  As soon as you pass the Woodstock Shopping Center, take a right on S.R. 665/Mill Road.  Take this until it ends at S.R. 758/Woodstock Tower Road.  Take a left here and continue to follow S.R. 758 up and down the mountain (this area can be scary when passing other vehicles – there are no guardrails in most spots).  Be sure to stay on S.R. 758 until you reach Little Fort Campground.  Turn into the campground area.  There are campsites and parking spots along the road here.  The trailhead is located on the right-hand side of the road near a campsite right before you reach the outdoor restrooms.

Story of the Forest Nature Trail

The Story of the Forest Trail is an easy family walk in the Big Meadows area of Shenandoah National Park.  The entire loop is 1.8 miles and half of the trail is paved.

Dappled Light on a Doe
Whitetail Deer are a common sight along the Story of the Forest Trail. Below: No pets or bikes are allowed on the trail; The return arm of the loop follows a paved path along the road.

No Dogs or Bikes Allowed on Story of the Forest Return Arm of Story of the Forest

Christine Says…

The first weekend of September was spectacular – simply perfect weather to be outside.  Adam and I decided to take a picnic dinner up to the park.  The Big Meadows area has a 1.8-mile nature trail, called “Story of the Forest”, that joins the wayside and the campground. We decided that a pleasant pre-dinner stroll sounded ideal.

We parked at the Byrd Visitor’s Center, and set out from the north end of the lot.  The trailhead is marked by a sign that also indicates that dogs and bikes are prohibited on this path.

Late Wildflowers
The trail was lined with these small white wildflowers. Below: The Big Meadows-Skyland horse trail crosses the path.

Horse Trail

The trail starts off gently downhill – passing through an area lush with ferns and wildflowers.  After crossing a small footbridge over a stream that feeds Dark Hollow Falls, the trail bears left and heads deeper into the woods.  You’ll pass over the Big Meadows-Skyland horse trail.  After that, you’ll pass communication towers that are part of the lodging complex.  Eventually, the campground will come into view.  To make the hike into a loop, turn left when you see the campground.  This will lead you back out to a paved bike path running parallel to the road through Big Meadows.  The paved path will lead you back to the wayside and visitor’s center.

The Story of the Forest doesn’t offer anything especially unique , but it is a nice walk for anyone visiting the Big Meadows area.

Adam Says…

I think this was actually the first time I have done the Story of the Forest Trail.  It is a very easy hike, so it is perfect for families with small children.  You can also use this trail to connect to Dark Hollow Falls to create a longer hike.  The trail is a nice walk in the woods, passing by some impressive trees and ferns.  I was expecting a guide that would possibly tell the “story of the forest”, but there isn’t a hike brochure like there is at the Stony Man Trail.

There are a few turns that form this loop.  The trail is marked on the cement posts as “nature trail”.  Once you start the trail, you will go through the forest until you reach a couple of bridges that go over the Hogcamp Branch.  In .2 miles, take a left at the junction to stay on the trail.  In .4 miles, the trail will intersect with a horse trail – just go straight and don’t turn on the horse trail.  In .8 miles, you will begin to see the Big Meadows campground.  Take a left on the paved path to follow this back to the Big Meadows wayside, which is next to the Visitor Center.  Grab a blackberry shake from the wayside and take a picture with the CCC statue at the visitor center to round out the experience.

Small Bridge Across the Hog Camp Branch
This small footbridge crosses a stream that feeds Dark Hollow Falls. Below: When you pass the visitor’s center near the end of the loop, stop to pose with the CCC statue.

CCC Statue

I’m surprised that Christine didn’t tell the story, but we passed a family that were slowly making their way along the trail.  A girl hoisted on the shoulders of her father was soooo excited to see a deer.  She said to us as we passed, “Take a picture of the deer.”  We went a little further up the trail and saw a different deer.  I stopped to take some pictures and the deer wasn’t being cooperative.  When the deer got startled and bolted off, I said a curse word.  I heard far off through the woods, the same girl say, “That man said a bad word.”  I felt bad about that and Christine hasn’t let me live it down.  I like to think that I was reinforcing her education rather than being a bad influence.  If she hadn’t heard the word before, she wouldn’t know it was bad.  At least that’s how I’m trying to justify it.

Trail Notes

  • Distance – 1.8 miles loop hike
  • Elevation Change – Negligible
  • Difficulty – 1. This trail is suitable for everyone.
  • Trail Conditions –4.5. The trail is very well-graded and easy to walk on.  The return arm of the loop is a paved bike path.
  • Views – 0. None.
  • Waterfalls/streams .5. In wet weather, you’ll cross a small stream that feeds Dark Hollow Falls.
  • Wildlife –3. There should be plenty of deer.  Many folks have also spotted bears on this trail.
  • Ease to Navigate –4. Easy to follow, just look for the Nature Trail marked on cement posts.
  • Solitude –1. You’ll see many people on this trail, as it connects the Big Meadows campground to the wayside and visitor’s center.
Directions to trailhead:
Park at Big Meadows near the Harry S. Byrd Sr. Visitor Center (mile 51 on Skyline Drive).  The trailhead starts across from the northern end of the Visitor Center parking lot.

Buck Hollow – Buck Ridge

The Buck Hollow – Buck Ridge Trail is a steep hike in the Central District of Shenandoah National Park.  It takes a deep plunge along the Buck Hollow stream and a steep hike back up the Buck Ridge trail.

I've never seen so many different kinds of mushrooms/fungus along a trail in Shenandoah.
I’ve never seen so many different kinds of mushrooms/fungus along a trail in Shenandoah.  Below: When we hiked Buck Hollow in August of 2008, we saw two yearling bear cubs; the stream running through Buck Hollow is rather small and overgrown.

Bear

Adam Says…

I have to be honest – we have been putting off doing this trail for a while.  We first did this hike a few years ago and the memories of how tough a hike it was kept us from wanting to do it again.  Christine and I both weren’t feeling well the day we attempted it last time, but we were more pleased doing this hike this time.

The trail starts off from the Meadow Springs parking area.  After about 20 feet down the trail, you see a post marking the Buck Hollow trail.  Take a left to go down this trail.  The trail seems to constantly descend and is rather steep in many portions.  There are loose rocks and if you attempt this after a heavy rain, you should expect some mud and slick soil on the trail.  Along the side for much of the trail, you will see the Buck Hollow stream.  Around mile 1.75, you will make a few rock-hops across the stream.  The trail continues to descend and then finally seems to just parallel the stream.  At mile 2.8, you will reach a cement post, pointing you to take a right on to the Buck Ridge Trail.  You cross the stream again and then you will quickly come up to the dreaded stairs.

For any Lord of the Rings fans, these stairs remind me of the stairs of Cirith Ungol.  “Up, up, up, up the stairs we go.”  They are unrelenting and seem to last forever, but they last less than .3 miles.  Of course, you do gain over 400 feet of elevation in this short distance.  These stairs didn’t exist the last time we did the hike; the last time, we just had a steep section of loose soil to traverse.  The stairs help make this hike more manageable, so I do thank the workers that accomplished this laborious task!

Nice Camping Spot
At the bottom of Buck Hollow, there is a beautiful camping spot with flat, open forest and easy access to water. Below: The trail starts out at the Meadow Springs Parking Area; A trail through a small slot in the rocks leads hikers to the only open view on the trail.

Trail Marker Side Trail to Viewpoing

After the stairs, the trail continues to go uphill, but it is at a much more manageable grade.  Once you are high enough on the ridge, you are treated with views of Skyline Drive and mountain views around you (including Mary’s Rock).  We found a small crevasse bisecting a large rock formation that we were able to easily climb up to get some unobstructed views.  After mile 5.2, you do come up to another concrete post.  Take a right and you will reach the parking lot in a little over .3 miles.

One interesting note that I remember from our first hike of this loop trail was near the bottom of Buck Hollow.  We were hiking along and all of a sudden we startled two yearling bears.  One of them quickly climbed a tree and the other took off up the mountain.  We kept our distance, and the one that climbed the tree climbed back down and took off in the opposite direction.  As I looked to see where the bear went, I spotted a buck and a pileated woodpecker in the same direction.  I felt that I could have taken a picture that would have looked like a wildlife mural that you often see on brochures or placemats.

We were tired after we finished the hike, but this trip we definitely felt that it was more enjoyable than the first time we attempted it.

Christine Says…

When we woke up to cool, pretty weather on Saturday morning, we decided to end our hiking hiatus a week earlier than initially planned.  I had to be at an art show by 1:00, so we needed to find a hike that was relatively short and sort of close to home.  We’ve pretty much hiked and blogged about everything in the central district of Shenandoah National Park already… with the exception of the dreaded Buck Hollow-Buck Ridge hike.

Why dreaded?  As Adam mentioned, last time we did this hike we were both fighting colds and had zero energy.  And while Buck Hollow is not the longest or hardest hike we’ve done, it certainly felt like it the last time we were there.  We ran out of water, we were fatigued, the trail felt endless and daunting as soon as we started the uphill climb.  Other than seeing the two yearling bears, the Buck Hollow hike didn’t carry a single pleasant memory.  It just made me think of exhaustion, suffering and thirst.  🙂

When I mentioned to Adam that we should probably hike it again for the blog, he looked at me with incredulity and told me that he didn’t ever want to hike there again.  Somehow he was convinced to relent, and off we went!

This time, the hike was a lot more fun!  It was still a long, steep downhill –  but I really enjoyed marveling at the huge variety of mushrooms and fungi growing along the trail.  I don’t know if there is a name for people who collect/catalog fungus, but if such people exist – this is the trail for them.  We also happened to notice a beautiful backcountry campsite at the bottom of the hollow, where the trail leveled out.  Along with easy access to water, there was a wide, flat expanse under the shade of the trees.  The forest floor in this area was open with very little undergrowth.  There were also several huge piles of rocks – maybe from old stone walls or foundations in the area.  It was a great place to take a break and have a snack.

Stairs
Although the stairs don’t look steep in this photo, they ascend nearly 400 feet in just over two-tenths of a mile.  Below: The Buck Ridge trail is lined with dense mountain laurel; The only (mostly) open view comes from atop a rock along Buck Ridge.

Dense Mountain Laurel View from the Rock

The flat terrain at the bottom of the hollow doesn’t last long.  Shortly after passing the cement post marking the Buck Hollow – Buck Ridge junction, you’ll encounter what I think is the toughest, steepest section of climbing in all of Shenandoah National Park.  Indeed, it’s a short climb – but wow… it’s STEEP.  The terrain along this little section is the equivalent of gaining 2000 feet in elevation over a mile.  I think most hikers will agree — that’s TOUGH climbing.

The Potomac Appalachian Trail Club published a review of this hike in their October 2010 newsletter.  In it they say “Steep, does not begin to describe the trail ahead.”  They also call it scary and compare it to a descent into hell.  🙂 We concur!

I was quite glad when the terrain moderated, because the steep stair climb really exhausted my legs!

Butterflies
Butterflies were everywhere along the trail. Below: The PATC trail overseer clearly loves this area.

Plate

We also noticed the nice view from atop the rock that we had missed last time we hiked.  It’s funny how being fatigued and thirsty makes you miss the best things along a trail sometimes.  The last section of the trail along Buck Ridge passes through dense mountain laurel and through patches of blueberry and raspberry bushes.  I really thought we’d see more signs of bears (and maybe some actual bears!), but we really only saw one old pile of scat this time.

The Buck Ridge trail eventually meets up with Hazel Mountain Road for the last third of a mile.  This section of trail was quite familiar, since we hiked it just a couple months ago on our backpacking trip to Catlett Mountain.  When we arrived back at the parking lot, we noticed the PATC overseer’s car was in the lot – complete with a “BCKHLW” license plate.  Clearly, the overseer loves this section of the park and does a great job maintaining the trail.

It was a fun hike – one I enjoyed far more than I expected to!

Trail Notes

  • Distance – 5.6 miles loop hike
  • Elevation Change – 1750 feet
  • Difficulty – 4. The trail is steep at the start going down and once you reach the halfway point includes a steep uphill.  Not recommended for those with knee or ankle issues.
  • Trail Conditions –3. The Buck Hollow Trail is rocky and steep, so you have to watch your footing.  The Buck Ridge Trail had better trail conditions.
  • Views – 2. The views you get are from the Buck Ridge Trail portion.  While most of these are through the obstruction of trees, there is a nice place to climb on top of a rock for a view.
  • Waterfalls/streams 1.5. You do walk along the Buck Hollow stream, but there aren’t a lot of nice views of falling water.
  • Wildlife –3.5. There are signs of bear scat around.  The first time we went on this trail, we saw two yearling bears and a buck.  Both times we have spotted pileated woodpeckers and many typical woodland birds.
  • Ease to Navigate –4. Not too many turns, just read the concrete posts.
  • Solitude –3.5. We did see a number of people on the trail that seemed to be in a group, but this isn’t overly popular.  Some people will hike up from Rte 211 to Mary’s Rock, so you’re likely to only find people on the Buck Hollow portion of the trail.

Directions to trailhead:
At mile 33.5 on Skyline Drive.  Park at the parking lot on the eastern side of the road and the trail starts from the southern end of the parking lot.

Powell Gap

Powell Gap is a fantastic short hike to a beautiful view of the eastern valley.  Even if you’re not a regular hiker, this walk can be done by nearly anyone. The rock ledge on the ridge provides better views than many of the scenic pull-outs along Skyline Drive.

Adam Enjoys the View of Powell Gap
Adam Enjoys the View of Powell Gap.  Below: Parking for this hike is right along the road.  There is not a lot or pull-off.

Parking

Christine Says…

For the final leg in our mini-hike trio, we chose the short walk up to a rocky ledge overlooking Powell Gap.  The hike follows the Appalachian Trail the entire way – which is only a brief half mile.  The trail goes rather steeply uphill the entire way.  And although it’s short, our Falcon Guide still rates this trail as “moderately strenuous”.  I would agree with that assessment if this hike was longer, but due to the shortness, I think this trail would be quite easy for anyone to do.

The overlook along the ridge-line comes atop a beautiful, little rocky ledge.  Views face eastward, and include a wonderful look at the rolling mountains and the valley below.  If you look to the north, you can even see a little snip of Skyline Drive winding its way through the forest below.

Appalachian Trail to Powell Gap
The viewpoint is accessed via the Appalachian Trail.

We spent a good twenty minutes on the rock ledge.  Adam covered his face with his cap and took a brief nap.  He exclaimed “That was the most comfortable rock I’ve ever laid on!” when he woke up.  Apparently, it was smooth and the shape cradled his back perfectly.  While he dozed, I enjoyed the nice summer breeze and watched butterflies fluttering about in the trees right below the overlook.

I could have happily stayed longer, but we were both hungry and wanted to squeeze in a picnic lunch on the beautiful summer day.  We ended up having our picnic back in Harrisonburg – at Lake Shenandoah.  Even at high noon, it never got hotter than 81.  It was such a perfect day!

Trail Notes

  • Distance – 1 mile out and back
  • Elevation Change – 300 feet
  • Difficulty – 2. Although the trail is a bit steep, the route is so short that the hike qualifies as easy.
  • Trail Conditions – 3. The trail is typical of this section of the AT – well graded, but some rocks and uneven footing.
  • Views – 3.5. A very nice view of the mountains and the eastern valley.
  • Waterfalls/streams 0. None.
  • Wildlife – 2. We didn’t see anything, but in the park it is always possible to see deer, bears and other wildlife.
  • Ease to Navigate – 5. There is only one trail in the area, so it’s nearly impossible to get lost as long as you head south on the Appalachian Trail
  • Solitude – 4. This section of the AT is not heavily traveled.  We did come across two section hikers.

Directions to trailhead:
At Mile 69.9 on Skyline Drive.  Park on the eastern side of the road along the meadow.  The trail begins just near the Powell Gap sign on the eastern side of Skyline Drive.