Tag: good camping

Doyles River-Jones Run

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The Doyles River-Jones Run loop is a nice six-mile hike that takes you past three sizable waterfalls and a lot of beautiful stream scenery.

Lower Doyles River Falls didn't have much water, but was surrounded by foliage.
There are three significant waterfalls along the Doyles River – Jones Run trail.

Christine Says…

Although, the wind, rain and (yes!) snow stripped the fall color from Shenandoah rather early this year, Adam and I still wanted to get out and hike on at least one glorious, sunny autumn day.  There was still a little bit of colorful foliage hanging on in the south district of Shenandoah National Park, so we decided to hike the Doyles River- Jones Run loop on Sunday morning.

Park at the Brown Gap lot
Parking is available at Brown Gap. Pictured Below: The fire road leading down from the parking lot is one of the prettiest in the park; the Shenandoah area has tons of Civil War history. We passed the grave of confederate solder, William Howard, along the way.

We started the hike along the Brown Gap fire road. William Howard, a confederate soldier, is buried along the Brown Gap fire road.

We got to the trailhead at Brown Gap right as the sun was coming up.  It was f-f-freezing and windy.  I carelessly left my hat and gloves at home, so I flipped up the collar of my fleece and retracted my hands into my sleeves.  We set out down the Brown Gap fire road, which is one of Shenandoah’s prettier fire roads.  It’s also where I used to ride my horse, “Friday”, whenever we trailed to the park.  The morning sun was filtering through the golden leaves, and soon the activity of walking warmed me up enough that I didn’t miss my gloves at all.  The fire road was really muddy, so I took that as a good sign that there would be plenty of water flowing in the three waterfalls we’d be passing along the route.

In fact, I was so sure that the waterfalls would be impressive, that I carried all the “big guns” in my photography arsenal – two camera bodies, three lenses, a shutter remote, a collection of neutral density and polarizing filters, extra batteries, memory card and my tripod (the one that feels like it weighs close to 100 pounds when I carry it on long hikes).  I also brought my new tripod bag (by Kinesis) that allows me to carry the tripod backpack style – evenly centering the weight on my back.  The sling style carrier I’ve been using for the past few years twists my neck and shoulders, so I try not to carry it on long hikes.  The new bag was really nice, but it perfectly lined up the camera mount lock lever with my butt.   Every step I took, the lever poked me quite rudely.  I ended up giving the tripod to Adam.  He’s taller, so he escaped the constant prodding.  I ended up carrying the bag with the rest of the gear.  It was much heavier, but still more comfortable.

When we reached the bridge at the junction of the fire road and the Doyles River trail, I groaned in dismay at the dry stream before us.  We walked along the river, or at least where the river should have been for another .3 miles to get to the base of Upper Doyles River Falls.  Normally, there are pretty little cascades leading down to the main double-terraced waterfall.  This time the waterfall was barely a trickle.  We ate our breakfast at the base of “Disappointment Falls” and headed on to the lower falls.

The water is Upper Doyles Falls was low - compare January 2009 to October 2009.
The photo above shows Upper Doyles Falls is October 2009 (left) compared to January 2009 (right).

Surprisingly, the lower falls were running quite a bit more than the upper falls.  I think narrower chasm through the rocks allows the second falls to hold onto more water flow.  The second falls is thin and almost chute-like.   Even though the second waterfall had more water, it still wasn’t anything spectacular.  When you’re a photographer hiking with 40+ pounds of gear and realizing the shots you had planned aren’t going to happen, the gear instantly feels twice as heavy.  I think this is the point that I started to feel like Atlas with the world resting on my shoulders.  🙂

Adam perches on a rock along lower Doyles River Falls.
Lower Doyles Falls was a bit nicer than the upper falls.

Leaving the lower falls, the trail became incredibly beautiful.  It followed a babbling brook through near-peak foliage.  The trees were a spectacular mix of gold, orange and red – all set off by the brilliant blue sky above.   This was, without a doubt, my favorite section of the trail.

So far, the hike had been relatively easy – just gentle up-and-down grades along the stream.  At the junction of the Jones Run Trail, the real work started.  In just under 2 miles, we picked up most of the elevation gain on the whole hike.  It was steep, hard climbing to reach Jones Run Falls.

The trees above displayed beautiful fall colors
The foliage along the Jones Run Trail was spectacular. Pictured Below:  Jones Run and Jones Run Falls.

Jones Run is a beautiful stream The water was low in Jones Run Falls

The waterfall on Jones Run was running low, but it was still really pretty.  From the waterfall back up to Skyline Drive, the grade of the trail moderates a bit.  It’s still a lot of uphill mixed with periods of flat terrain.  Eventually, you reach the junction with the Appalachian trail and follow it north for a little over a mile back to the Brown’s Gap parking lot.  This section of the AT follows closely to the road, so you constantly hear cars and smell exhaust.  The walk along this section is easy, but rather uneventful.

Overall, I think this was a great hike.  I’m so glad we had a chance to be outdoors on a beautiful fall day, but I wish the waterfalls had been nicer.  We’ll have to try hiking it again in the spring after heavier, more sustained rains.

Adam Says…

While we’ve hiked Doyles River a number of times, this was the first time that we had made a loop of the hike and added Jones Run.   When we have done this before, we parked at the Doyles River parking lot around mile marker 81.  We would normally hike down to both of the falls and then head back.

On this hike, we parked around mile marker 83 at the Brown Gap lot.  We crossed the road and headed down the Brown Gap fire road.  At about .4 miles, you see a short path leading up to the gravesite pictured above.  In about 1.7 miles you will reach the junction with the Doyles River Trail.  Take a right on this trail.   After about two tenths of a mile, you will reach the Upper Doyles River Falls.  There is a short spur path to lead down to the base of the falls.  Once you rejoin the trail, you will then see the Lower Doyles River Falls after a tenth of the mile.  Don’t try to blaze down off the trail to reach the falls.  The trail loops around to bring you closer to the falls.  When you reach near the base of the falls, there is a short, treacherous climb down to the base of these falls.  When you join back to the trail, continue south down the Doyles River Trail.  You will reach the Junction with the Jones Run Trail in about .6 miles from leaving the Lower Doyles River Falls.  You begin your hike up to the Jones Run Falls and will reach them about .7 miles on this trail.  After the falls, you will have a 1.2 mile hike up to the Jones Run Parking lot.  Before you enter the parking lot, there will be a junction with the Appalachian Trail.  Take a right on the AT, heading north until you reach the Brown Gap parking lot.  The AT portion is about 1.3 miles back to your car, leading you to this overall hike of 6 miles.

The woods on the Doyles River - Jones Run trail were gold and red.
The woods were very colorful at the lower elevations. Pictured Below: One downed tree we came across was so large that Adam could climb inside.

This fallen tree was big enough for Adam to crawl into.

The hike is not that long being only six miles, but there is a lot of elevation gain from the base of the Doyles River Trail, leading up to the Jones Run Parking lot.  Christine felt that it may be better to do this hike in reverse, but based on contours, I think either hike has a tough trip back at the end.

The waterfalls along the way on normal days are really some of the nicer waterfalls in Shenandoah National Park.   The water flow didn’t allow us to see them at their best today, but we enjoyed them nonetheless.  The Upper Doyles River Falls stands at 28 feet;  the Lower Doyles River Falls plummets 63 feet.; the Jones Run Falls plunges 42 feet.  If you’re looking for a hike to see multiple falls, this is the best one to do in Shenandoah.

The morning light made the trees glow golden.
More golden foliage along the trail.

On our way back to the car on the AT, we ran into a woman doing the trail in the opposite way.  She had two pugs with her on the hike, named Titan and Zoot.  They were eager to greet us, since they must have known we had three pugs of our own.  They were very energetic to begin their hike to the falls, but we wondered how they fared on the steep way back.  We wish we had taken some pictures of these boys, because they looked like they were ready for a great adventure that day.

Cars waiting to get into Shenandoah National Park
There was a very long line of cars waiting to get into Shenandoah National Park

The foliage was just slightly after peak today.  We decided to exit the south entrance of the park to reward ourselves with some frozen treats from Sonic.  On our way out, we saw the longest line of cars we’ve ever witnessed trying to enter the park at the south gate.  Cars were at a stand-still all the way down to the interstate.  Three rangers were walking down the line, handing out information to make the fee stations handle things quickly.  I guess everyone felt that it would be a nice day to see color in the park and hopefully they weren’t too disappointed in the color.

Trail Notes

  • Distance – 6 miles – loop.
  • Elevation Change –1875 feet
  • Difficulty – 4. The climb up from the bottom of Jones Run is tough!
  • Trail Conditions – 3.5 The trail is well-maintained and traveled.
  • Views –0. You might get a few glimpses of vistas through the woods along the fire road.
  • Waterfalls/streams –4. The waterfalls and streams along this trail are beautiful, especially when there is plenty of rain.
  • Wildlife – 1. Just a couple deer.
  • Ease to Navigate – 4. Trails are well marked and easy to follow.
  • Solitude – 3. You will likely see several other groups of hikers along the way, but it’s not as heavily trafficked as other waterfall trails in the park.

Directions to trailhead:
From Skyline Drive, follow the drive to Brown Gap (near mile marker 83).  The parking lot is on the west side of the drive.  To begin the hike, walk across Skyline Drive and follow the Brown Gap fire road downhill.

Virginia Creeper – Whitetop to Damascus

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The Virginia Creeper Trail is a picturesque rails-to-trails path that winds its way for thirty-four miles through the Mount Rogers recreational area.  The trail starts in Whitetop and ends in Abingdon, with Damascus sitting right in the middle.  The area caters to bikers, offering plenty of opportunities for shuttles, bike rentals and food along the way.

Adam crosses one of the many old railroad trestles along the Virginia Creeper Trail.
Adam crosses one of the many old railroad trestles along the Virginia Creeper Trail.

Adam Says…

The Virginia Creeper Trail is something we’ve wanted to do for years.  It is very well known in the biking world as being one of the best rails-to-trails in the east.

The origin and history of the name has to do largely with the train that used to ride this route.  The train was called the Virginia Creeper due to the slow churning of the train. The trail was also partly named in honor of the native vine that you will normally see turning crimson as an early sign of fall.  The train ran its last trip in 1977 and it was converted and opened as a multi-use trail in 1984.

The Virginia Creeper is a beautiful trail that passes through the woods, often alongside a rushing stream.

signs green cove station green cove station_1

We were expecting rain that day and wanted to hit the trail as early as we could.  We arranged for a shuttle to take us to Whitetop Station to begin our trip.  We recommend the  Virginia Creeper Trail Bike Shop.  They are located in Abingdon and run a shuttle to Whitetop and will even pick you up in Damascus if you are thinking about only doing half of the trail.  After we were dropped off, we decided to not lollygag, since the rain was imminent.  We got through the first couple of miles of the trip with only a few errant raindrops, before the heavier rain started.

Despite the rain, we really enjoyed the beauty of the trail.  There are 47 trestles and bridges that pass over the Green Cove Creek and the Whitetop Laurel Creek.  You get gorgeous views of the rushing water in the creeks; pass by quaint, country farms; and canopy forests.  We picked a perfect weekend to do this trip to see the beautiful fall foliage.  The trail is shared by bikers, walkers, runners, horses, and even an occasional dog sledder in the winter.

Here are a few highlights along the way.  There are also several information signs along the way that provide valuable insight into the history and nature of the area.  You will see mile markers along the way to help point the way.

  • Mile 34 – The Whitetop Station to park your car.  Bathrooms are available. Highest point on the trail at 3576 ft.
  • Mile 30.5 – Green Cove Station sells a lot of essentials and souvenirs.  Bathrooms are also available.
  • Mile 27 – Creek Junction – Parking and Bathrooms are available.  563 foot trestle.
  • Mile 23 – Taylor’s Valley – Parking available. Daniel Boone campsite.
  • Mile 20.7 – Straight Branch – Parking and Bathrooms are available.
  • Mile 20 – Whitetop Laurel Falls – when you see a large overhanging rock, the falls are down a small path on the right side of the trail.
  • Mile 16 – Arrive at the town of Damascus.  Railroad exhibit is available.
There are so many beautiful farm and stream scenes along the trail.
There are so many beautiful farm and stream scenes along the trail.  The huge Christmas Tree farms along the way are lovely. Pictured Below:  The trail follows a rushing stream with many small waterfalls; The fall color was spectacular in Mid-October.

waterfall barn_2

For those that are interested in geocaching, there are a ton on this trail.

We definitely plan on coming back in the spring and tackle this another time.  The rain got us fairly wet and also covered us with “Creeper Streak” – the streak created on your back from the wet dirt being kicked up from our back tire.  We decided to stop after the halfway point and catch the shuttle back to our car.  While the rain was annoying and kept us from relaxing and enjoying the trail as much as we wanted, we still felt the scenery around us made up for it.

Christine Says…

I woke up early the morning of our Virginia Creeper bike ride, peeked out the hotel window and started silently chanting the mantra “please don’t rain, please don’t rain, please don’t rain”.  The sky was that heavy gunmetal gray that promises rain is coming sooner rather than later.  It wasn’t supposed to start raining until the evening, but I was fairly certain that we were going to be in for a soggy bike ride.

Nevertheless, I donned my new padded bike pants and a fleece top and headed over to the bike shop to catch our shuttle ride out to Whitetop Station.  The shuttle services for the Creeper Trail are a great idea, as they let bikers enjoy the whole trail without making a return trip over repeat scenery to get back to your car.  I think most people just bike half the trail – Whitetop to Damascus, but we were really hoping to do the full 34 miles back to Abingdon.

The van ride out to the trail’s end was pretty long – about an hour along winding mountain roads.  The driver shared lots of trail trivia and helpful tips to kill the time.  Some of the things he shared:

  • Celebrities like to bike the Virginia Creeper (Clint Black, Troy Aikman, Emmitt Smith, some NASCAR driver I don’t remember).  Apparently, Brad Pitt even has a home near Whitetop and has been spotted fishing the area’s rivers. (although I can’t find any evidence to corroborate this as fact)
  • Most of the accidents (75%) along the trail happen to males between the ages of 13 and 21.  Boys on bikes are reckless, I suppose.
  • It’s a very bad idea to slam on your brakes when crossing wet railroad trestles.  You WILL wipe out.  I can vouch that this tip is quite true.  We saw the same poor woman wipe out on two separate occasions – both times she was on a wet trestle.
  • The trail is probably the only 34 mile bike ride that you’ll actually gain weight on.  There are snack shops, coffee house, bakeries, ice cream parlors and full service restaurants all up and down the trail.
The trestle supports are very picturesque/
The trestles along the trail are very picturesque. Pictured Below: We were lucky enough to bike the trail during the peak of fall color; The trail is a multiuse trail and is also used by pedestrians and equestrians.

curved-trestle horses

On the ride out, the sky started spitting a bit of rain.  It had stopped again by the time we were dropped off at Whitetop Station.  We kept our fingers that it would continue to hold off.  Adam and I don’t like biking or hiking in crowds, so as soon as we got our bikes off the trailer, we raced off to get a jump start on the crowd of bikers arriving at the trailhead.  Our driver told us that on nice weekend days, the trail might see upwards of 2400 riders.  Area bike shops have 1800 bikes available, and frequently sell out of rentals.  I was a bit surprised that more people rent bikes than bring their own.  Maybe most people don’t own bikes these days.

The trail was gorgeous – a leaf-covered pathway under an endless tunnel of fall-colored trees.  Every now and then, we’d pass an opening that provided a view of the mountains or one of the area’s many vast  Christmas tree farms.  Around Green Cove Station the rain started in earnest, and never let up again.  I had to put my camera in a trashbag I had packed in my bike rack.  There were so many scenes along the way that deserved to be photographed with care.   Sadly, with the rain, all I was able to do was take a few quick snapshots.

Even in the rain, the ride was incredibly beautiful.  I loved crossing the old railroad trestles and riding alongside the rushing streams.   We biked the entire stretch from Whitetop to Damascus in about ninety minutes.  I would have loved to take more time to enjoy the scenery, but it was cold, wet and windy.  I started thinking less about scenery, and more about a mug of hot chocolate and a steaming cup of soup.

In short order, we arrived in Damascus.  We decided to try lunch at one of the places our shuttle driver had pointed out.  He had mentioned that In the Country and Fattie’s Diner were both really good.  I saw “Hot Soup” on In the Country’s sign, and I was sold.

The trail offers many charming places to stop for a delicious lunch or snack
The trail offers many charming places to stop for a delicious lunch or snack.   Pictured Below:  We had a fantastic lunch at “In the Country”; The only red train car along the trail is located in Damascus.

lunch damascus station

The staff at the restaurant was so friendly and welcoming.  They didn’t even flinch when we walked in through their front door, soaking wet  – covered with mud and trail grit.  My ponytail felt like I’d dipped it in wet concrete and my legs were coated with black sludge from my ankles to my knees.  Adam even had mud splashed up and down his cheeks.  They invited us to eat inside in the warmth, but I felt too guilty about my filthiness and chose a picnic table under their covered porch.

Adam and I both got their boxed lunches which included a sandwich, side, drink and dessert.   I chose their potato soup as my side.  It totally hit the spot.  Lunch was washed down with hot chocolate and followed up with delicious homemade pumpkin squares.  We sat on the porch after lunch, watching others from our shuttle group pass by on their way to the pick-up point. I think most bikers take about two and a half hours to bike the Whitetop to Damascus section.

The rain was still falling steadily, and although we wanted badly to see the rest of the trail, we decided to call the bike shop and let them know we’d be joining the shuttle in Damascus.  We met up with everyone at the red train car in the middle of Damascus.  Everybody looked cold, dirty and tired.  The heated shuttle van was such a welcome sight.

It was a real disappointment to miss the second half of the trail, but it’s also a great motivator for us to make a return trip to the area in the spring.  I’ve heard the rhododendron and mountain laurel bloom along the Creeper is amazing!

Trail Notes

  • Distance – 18 miles for this segment
  • Elevation Change – From Whitetop to Damascus, you lose 1646 feet in elevation
  • Difficulty – 1.5.  You hardly have to pedal at all on this stretch of trail, so it is suitable for bikers of all fitness and skill levels
  • Trail Conditions – 3.5.   The trail is in good shape.  There are some errant holes and jutting rocks to watch out for.  Entrances and exits from the trestles can be jarring if you’re going moderately fast.
  • Views – 3.  While the views aren’t high and lofty, they are still beautiful and showcase Virginia’s most picturesque scenery.
  • Waterfalls/streams -4.  The two streams that flow along the trail are gorgeous and include many small waterfalls.
  • Wildlife – 1.  We didn’t see anything, but our shuttle driver told us people regularly spot deer and the occasional bear.
  • Ease to Navigate – 5. The trail is very simple to follow.
  • Solitude – 0.  People love the Creeper!  On nice days in the spring, summer and fall, the trail can see over 2000 bikers in a single day.

Directions to trailhead:

We recommend hiring a shuttle service in either Abingdon or Damascus.  For a reasonable fee, they will drive you and your bikes to White Top Station.  This lets you enjoy the entire trail without having to backtrack on the return trip to your car.

Mount Rogers

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The summit of Mount Rogers, Virginia’s highest peak, can be reached via a nine mile (total, out-and-back) hike starting from Grayson Highlands State Park.  The hike follows the Appalachian Trail for most of the way and crosses into Jefferson National Forest.

Mt. Rogers is beautiful, rugged and home to several herds of wild ponies.
Mount Rogers has beautiful and rugged terrain.  The area is home to several herds of wild ponies.

Christine Says…

Mount Rogers has long been on my list of must-do hikes.  The peak’s status as the state’s highest point was one draw, but personally, I wanted a chance to see the feral highland ponies that roam the area.

Our trip started under rather inauspicious conditions.  We missed a turn on our way to the park, and ended up an hour out of the way.  The weather had been forecast to be sunny, but the morning dawned with a thick, wet, windy cloud of bleakness blanketing the entire area.  But when you have driven almost four hours to do a long-anticipated hike, you’re going to do it regardless of minor complications like gloominess and getting lost.

The trail starts out from Massie Gap in Grayson Highlands State Park.
The trail starts out from Massie Gap in Grayson Highlands State Park.

We parked at Massie Gap in Grayson Highlands State Park.  From there, we walked across a wide pasture, passed a sign warning of extremely erratic weather in the area and went through a horse gate.  The trail climbed upward along a wide, gravel path.

We almost immediately saw our first small group of wild ponies, clustered under the trees on a hillside next to the trail.  The fog was so thick; they looked like silhouettes in the mist.  I quickly got my camera out and started snapping shots.  The ponies were so small and rugged looking.  Their coats were thick and their manes long and wavy.  Some were solid colored and some were spotted.  They also turned out to be incredibly inquisitive and gentle.  While I was squatting down to take photos, a dark brown pony walked up to me and nuzzled her soft nose onto the back of my hand.  I know she was looking for food, but I had nothing to offer. We lingered with the ponies for a while, and then moved on.

(note:  The park rules prohibit feeding the ponies.)

The ponies are very friendly.
The ponies are very friendly.  They come right up to you, especially if they think you have food.  Although it may look like Adam is feeding the pony, he’s actually just unzipping his backpack.  Pictured Below:  More ponies; State park rules!

Grayson Highlands Pony in the Mist. This Mt. Rogers pony was especially friendly
Grayson Highlands Pony in the Fog. Mt. Rogers ponies have long beautiful manes
Adam laughs at the misspelled sign in Grayson Highlands State Park The sign at Grayson Highlands State Park misspelled the word Alcoholic

We soon reached the junction with the Appalachian Trail, followed the white blazes and headed south. The fog was such a transformative element on the morning of our hike.  Instead of the amazing mountain views we’d heard about, the thick mist made the scenery feel closer and more intimate. I told Adam several times that I didn’t feel like I was in Virginia at all.  I felt like I was walking through some storybook version of the Scottish Highlands.  It was so quiet and mysterious-feeling – no people, no tall trees rustling in the wind, no birds chirping. The terrain was open, studded with rocks and covered with scrubby low-lying brush.

The Wilburn Rock scramble was slippery, but fun.
The Wilburn Rock scramble was slippery, but fun.

The Appalachian Trail exits Grayson Highlands State Park at around the 1.5 mile mark.  The trail becomes increasingly rugged and rocky at this point.   There are a couple route options for the middle section of the trail.  Hikers can continue along the AT, or choose to branch off on the Wilburn Ridge Trail for a short rock scramble (and nice views on a clear day).  We chose to scramble.  In retrospect, we probably should have stuck to the AT.  The boulders on Wilburn Ridge were quite slippery.  After we finished scrambling, we passed through a thick tunnel of rhododendron that spilled us back out into another open pasture area.

When we rejoined the AT, we started to see signs of the sun burning through the cloud layer.  We soon reached a horse camp next to an enormous rock outcropping .  When we climbed to the top of the rocks, we both gasped in awe at the view.    The valley below us had been mostly cleared of clouds and fog, and a blanket of fall color spread out before us, as far as the eye could see.  Only a few wisps of mist were left hanging on the ridges below.  We sat on the rocks and took a break from walking.  A couple backpackers passed below, and we overheard them talking about hearing coyotes howling in the night before.  Instead of coyotes, we heard the distant squeal of ponies whinnying ahead on the trail.

We got our first view with clearning clouds atop a huge rocky outcropping.
We got our first clear view from atop a huge rocky outcropping. Pictured Below: fog and clouds lift off the colorful mountainside;  the ferns along the trail were turning gold; one of the pony stallions we saw along the way.

The clouds and fog begin to lift off Mt. Rogers The ferns on Mt. Rogers turn gold in the fall Pony Stallion on Mt. Rogers

After a short break atop the rocks, we continued along, passing through another thicket of rhododendron.  The area was completely shaded and nearly ankle deep in mud.  My trekking poles came in very handy traversing the sloppy footing.  This section of the trail runs almost parallel to the Mount Rogers horse trail.  There are many beautiful backcountry campgrounds nestled into the trees along this stretch.    We saw about a dozen more wild ponies near the campsites, including a couple stallions.

This gorgeous gray was hanging out near the campsites.
This gorgeous gray was hanging out near the campsites. Pictured Below: More ponies – they are everywhere along the trail through Rhododendron Gap.

Ponies at rest on Mt. Rogers Beautiful spotted pony on Mt. Rogers Adam watches the red pony on the Mt. Rogers hike

By this point in the hike, all the fog and clouds had blown off the mountain, giving us a great look at the gentle rolling terrain and spectacular open views.  You can’t help but feel like you’re on top of the world walking along this ridge.  The fall color was amazing!   We stopped for lunch at the Thomas Knob Appalachian Trail hut.  We shared the picnic table with several groups of day hikers and backpackers.  We read the logbook, stretched a bit and then made our final push for the summit.

The spur to the summit departs the AT and heads into a dense, rainforest-like grove of spruce-fir trees.  It was damp and green and draped with moss.  It reminded Adam and I of the forests in the Pacific Northwest.  The summit of Mt. Rogers is rather anticlimactic after passing by so many sweeping panoramic views and rocky pinnacles.  The marker lays set in stone, tucked into a shady spot in the woods.  There is no view to speak of, just a quiet little spot under the trees.

We only stayed at the summit for a few minutes, as there were quite a few people there.  We hiked the return trip to Massie Gap fairly quickly, stopping briefly along the way to admire ponies and take in views that had been obscured by fog earlier in the day.  The hike almost felt like a loop because the weather changed so dramatically between the hike up and the hike down.   My final treat along the hike came less than a mile from the end, when a young foal came bounding out of the brush, nickering loudly for his mother.  The foal was absolutely adorable.  I wanted to pack him up and take him home with me!  (Incidentally, the wild ponies are periodically rounded up and sold to keep the herd at a sustainable size.  Although, I don’t think our property owners association would appreciate me bringing a miniature horse home, so I’ll just have to keep the pony ownership idea in the realm of fantasy for now.)

We had beautiful autumn views hiking back down Mt. Rogers
We had beautiful autumn views hiking back down Mount Rogers. Pictured Below: A foal is curious; View from the trail on our return.

A wild Mt. Rogers foal stays close to his mother We had awesome views on the hike back.

We got back to our car, tired and happy.  The entire hike took around six hours – even with lots of breaks and dawdling along the way.  For its nine mile length, it’s a surprisingly easy hike.

I really can’t fully put into words how much I loved this hike. I went to sleep that night dreaming of wild ponies and gorgeous fall views.  I know I’ll revisit Mt. Rogers often in my mind until I have a chance to hike it again.

Adam Says…

We had such a great hike up Mount Rogers!  A co-worker that had previously hiked the mountain had described the scenery as God’s country and I couldn’t agree more.  While walking across the highlands, you can’t help but feel reflective about the beauty before you.  The land around you is vast and I guarantee you will be humbled by the nature.

The trail along the top of Mt. Rogers is surprisingly level.
The trail along the top of Mt. Rogers is surprisingly level.

Mount Rogers was originally named Balsam Mountain, but the name was changed to honor Virginia’s first state geologist and first president of MIT, William B. Rogers.  With the peak being the highest in Virginia at 5,729 feet, this is quite an honor.

One thing that does make this a special hike is the ponies.  Another co-worker of mine didn’t believe that there were wild ponies here (even with photographic evidence).  The ponies were originally placed here by the park service in 1974, but are currently maintained by the Wilburn Ridge Pony Association.  The ponies help protect the area from wildfires by eating grasses and underbrush.  The Wilburn Ridge Pony Association takes care of their veterinary needs and provides supplements of salt and hay in winter months.  There are close to 150 ponies, that are separated into three herds – some are in Grayson Highlands State Park, more are  in the Scales area of Pine Mountain, and the most are near Rhododendron Gap on the Mount Rogers trail.  The proceeds from the sale of the ponies at the end of September supports the vet and winter feed costs.

Adam points out the only sign of humans he can see for miles from Mt. Rogers
Adam points out the only sign of humans he can see for miles from Mt. Rogers. Picture Below: a pair of palominos; beautiful clouds and blue skies over the rocky vista.

Pair of palomino ponies on Mt. Rogers Rocky views and blue skies on the hike down Mt. Rogers

The geology of Mount Rogers provides an interesting tale of how things were formed over the years.  Geologists will be able to see evidence of gneiss, sandstone, rhyolite, and shale on their hike along the trail.

For people that like a little more direction for the route that we took, here are some points of interest along the way:

  • Cross the field at the Massie Gap parking lot and go through the gate to start the trail.
  • You will now be on the Rhododendron Trail for .8 mile until it intersects the Virginia Highlands Connector Trail.  Take a left on this trail for just .2 miles.
  • When you reach the junction with the Appalachian trail, head south.  You will shortly leave Grayson Highlands State Park and enter Mount Rogers National Recreation Area through a gate – continue straight on the AT at this point.  After another .25 mile, you will have the option to stay straight on the Appalachian Trail or turn left and proceed on the Wilburn Ridge Trail.  The distance is about 1 mile either way.  The Wilburn Ridge Trail does join back to the AT.  It is a tougher rock scramble, but I would recommend doing it on the way up rather than the way down.
  • Once you are back on the AT, proceed for another mile until you reach a junction of trails.  This area is known as Rhododendron Gap and comes to an elevation of 5526 feet.  At this junction, there is a large pinnacle rock.  Climbing up the rock will give you gorgeous panoramic views that are a must-see of the hike.  This area joins the AT with the Pine Mountain Trail and Crest Trail.  Once you enjoy the view, make sure you follow the white blazes to stay on the AT.
  • You will then proceed on the AT for about 1.5 miles, walking through the bald area known as the Crest Zone, until you reach the Thomas Knob Shelter, protected by gates on both sides.  This is a great place to grab a snack.  There are also great views behind the cabin.  This cabin sleeps plenty, since there is a ladder that goes to a second floor, allowing a little light through two small windows on the side.
  • Once you leave the shelter through the gate, you will be entering Lewis Fork Wilderness.  Shortly after this point, to reach the summit you will need to leave the AT and proceed to the summit by taking the Mount Rogers Spur Trail for .5 mile straight ahead.  The summit is marked by a simple USGS benchmark in the stone.  There are two within 100 feet of each other, so make sure you find the correct one for any of you peakbaggers.
The Summit of Mt. Rogers resembles a rainforest. Pictured Below: the Thomas Knob Appalachian Trail Shelter; Adam on the summit.
The Summit of Mt. Rogers resembles a rainforest. Pictured Below: the Thomas Knob Appalachian Trail Shelter; Adam on the summit.

The Thomas Knob Applachian Trail Hut Adam claims a geocache on the summit of Mount Rogers.

Overall, the trail was really quite manageable for a 9-mile hike.  The terrain is very nice in some points walking across flat lands, but there are some rocky parts, especially around the Wilburn Ridge Trail.  My back and feet were in pain from having too much weight on my pack, but my muscles didn’t feel sore at all the next day.

There are just a few geocaches that you can find along the way.  A couple of them are earthcaches, which do not have you finding a physical cache, but it teaches you about the geology of the area.

Christine told me that this hike has been her favorite ever.  While there are a lot of contenders for me, this would definitely be a strong candidate for me as well.  I feel that anyone interested in hiking in Virginia should make this a trail you must do.  It is a day you will remember forever.

Trail Notes

  • Distance – 9 miles the way we went making a partial loop in the middle with the Wilburn Ridge Trail.
  • Elevation Change –About 1100 feet
  • Difficulty – 4. The actual trail wasn’t too tough, but due to the length we upped the difficulty.  The Wilburn Ridge Trail does include a few rock scrambles, but is also manageable for most people that are the slightest bit nimble.
  • Trail Conditions – 3.5 The trail is well-maintained and traveled.  There are muddy spots, especially through the Mount Rogers Spur Trail.  The hike on the AT and Wilburn Ridge before the Rhododendron Gap area is quite rocky, causing you to watch your feet.
  • Views –5. Great views walking along the trail in all directions.  The views from Rhododendron Gap are especially beautiful.
  • Waterfalls/streams –0. Non-existent.
  • Wildlife – 5. It doesn’t get much better than wild ponies.  Bears and coyotes have been spotted also.  Lots of bird-watching available also.
  • Ease to Navigate – 3. It is easy to get a little confused at Rhododendron Gap, but overall things are very well-maintained.  Make sure you grab a map to have a backup plan.
  • Solitude – 2. You will get good spacing due to the length, but you will see other people due to the backpackers, AT hikers, and day visitors.  It is the highest summit, which is going to draw crowds, especially at the shelter and summit.

Directions to trailhead:
From Abingdon, take 58 East until you reachGrayson Highlands State Park on the left through SR 362.  Continue for three miles to reach the Massie Gap parking area.  The start of the trail at the gate is across the field to the north.

Traces Trail

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The Traces Trail is a short, easy stroll through the woods.  Located near Mathews Arm Campground in Shenandoah National Park, this hike is perfectly suited for families with young children and novice hikers.

The Traces Trail has some hints of the area's bygone mountain people.
The Traces Trail has some hints of the area’s bygone mountain people.

Adam Says…

We decided to do a couple of short hikes on a Sunday afternoon.  Since we had just been pounded with rain the last few days, we were worried that hiking would be a little muddy, but that didn’t seem to be the case.

We had read about the Traces Trail in the North District of Shenandoah National Park in a hiking guide we had at home.  The write-up in the book seemed to make this out to be a wonderful hiking trail where you would see glimpses of life from a bygone era and hints of mountainous views.  You do get to see a few stone walls along the way and a glimpse or two of views through thick tree growth, but the overall hike doesn’t have much of a payoff.

I would recommend this hike if you just want to enjoy a nice walk through the woods, but there is not a lot to see here.

You start the hike from the eastern side of the parking lot (the post is painted with Traces Trail on it).  You’ll pass a few concrete posts that mark where the trail intersects with other trails, but just stay on the Traces Trail throughout.

One interesting thing on the trail is you will eventually come to a sign in front of a fenced-in area.  The area is being fenced to determine if white-tailed deer are damaging local flora.  The fences are high enough that deer can not jump them.  We didn’t see much difference from the fenced-in area and where we were, so it will be interesting to see if the research leads to any findings.

We didn't see much wildlife on the hike.
We didn’t see much wildlife on the hike.

Christine Says

There really aren’t too many things to say about this trail.  It was short and pleasant, but had little in the way of scenery or unique features.  On the day we walked this trail, a big storm system was just leaving the area, so the weather was cool and very breezy.  I actually remember the sound of the wind rustling in the trees more than I remember anything about the trail.  It was a beautiful day to be outdoors.

The ferns are already going to gold.
The ferns are already going to gold.

As Adam mentioned, there were some historical artifacts along the trail.  We saw crumbling stone walls, overgrown old roads and remnant apple trees mixed in with newer growth.  The cultural history of the park is interesting and still somewhat controversial.  Many people aren’t aware that Shenandoah’s land was essentially stolen from the mountain people who had lived there long before the idea for this national park was born.  The park was authorized in 1926.  From that point on, government officials systematically (and often forcefully) removed families from their land.  The mountain people were portrayed in the media as ignorant and uneducated.  Newspaper articles made it sound like the government was doing these people a favor by relocating them to settlements outside the park.  If you read the history and letters from the original park residents, you’ll see that these people were not country bumpkins who needed the government’s care.  They were mostly hardworking families who loved the land they had long called home.

Trail Notes

  • Distance – 1.7 miles loop
  • Elevation Change – Maybe a couple hundred feet
  • Difficulty – 1.  Other than two short climbs near the beginning of the trail, this hike is relatively level.
  • Trail Conditions – 4.  The trail is well-maintained and easy to walk.
  • Views –1. You get a few glimpses of a view through the trees, but mostly this is just a pleasant walk through the woods.
  • Waterfalls/streams –0. Non-existent.
  • Wildlife – 1 A few birds and squirrels.
  • Ease to Navigate – 3.  There are a few junctions along this trail, but if you keep following the markers for the Traces Trail, you can’t go wrong.
  • Solitude – 2. This trail’s easy terrain, short distance and location next to Mathews Arm Campground make this a popular trail, especially for families.

Directions to trailhead:
Follow Skyline Drive to the Mathews Arm Campground at mile marker 22.  Park at the amphitheater and follow the blue-blazed Traces Trail that departs from the east end of the parking lot.

Big Schloss

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Big Schloss is a moderate 4 mile hike with gorgeous views at the top. Located in George Washington National Forest’s Lee Ranger District, this trail is one of our favorite re-hikes due to great views and beauty of the trail.

Christine's dad and Adam at the Big Schloss overlook.
Christine’s dad and Adam at the Big Schloss overlook.

Adam says…

Since Christine’s birthday is this week, her parents wanted to do something to celebrate.  So, we decided to take them on a hike to Big Schloss and have a picnic.   We’ve done this hike on numerous occasions, but this was the first time for her parents.

German settlers to this area named this rock outcropping “Big Schloss” due to its resemblance to a castle.  “Schloss” means “castle” in German.

We parked at the Wolf Gap Campground.  There are outhouses near the parking lot in case you need to make a pit stop before the hike.   The Mill Mountain trailhead starts out from campsite #9.  You’ll see the trail marker indicating a distance of two miles to Big Schloss.

Christine's mom climbs the Mill Mountain Trail
Christine’s mom climbs the Mill Mountain Trail.  Below:   We saw lots of red and yellow in the trees already, the first panoramic view after the initial ascent, Christine’s Mom and Dad check out the small cave

red foliage_1 first look cave

The hike starts off with a fairly steep and steady uphill.  However, you are getting this portion of the hike done with first, which is a nice bonus.  After .66 miles, your climb ends. When you reach the ridge, the trail takes a sharp turn to the left.   For most of the remainder of this hike, you will be walking on the top of the ridge, with occasional views through the trees to your left of the Long Mountain ridge and better views to your right.

At .78 miles, you will come to your first overlook.  We noticed quite a bit of tree color on the trail and at the overlooks, which gets us both excited for some fall hiking.   You’ll continue walking on the ridge, going slightly up and down, but not a lot of elevation change.  At 1.75 miles, you will reach a signpost leading you to take a right to take the Big Schloss spur trail to the summit just .25 miles ahead.   At 1.9 miles, you will see a campsite off to the left of the main trail and a small rock outcrop that holds a small cave.

You access the Big Schloss overlook via a small wood footbridge.
You access the Big Schloss overlook via a small wood footbridge.

Shortly after this, you will cross a wooden footbridge and then reach the summit for the best views.  There is not a ton of room on the rocks to view the summit, but you will likely have a spot to enjoy the view and eat a snack.

At the summit, we ate a small handful of trailmix and then made our way back to the parking lot for a picnic lunch.  Christine’s mother went overboard on packing for the picnic.  She brought about 15 pieces of fried chicken, various pasta salads, pineapple, grapes, cheese & crackers, three different bags of potato chips, assorted beverages, and two birthday cakes (lemon blueberry cake and coconut cake).  We ate way more than should have, but we had a wonderful morning for a hike.

Adam and our friend Shannon found the Big Schloss Cache back in 2007.
Adam and our friend Shannon found the Big Schloss Cache back in 2007.

If you are into geocaching, there is one that you can find not too far from the summit.

Christine Says…

Big Schloss is one of my favorite hikes in the Lee District.  It’s a beautiful hike in every season!  Springtime brings a trail lined with mountain laurel and rhododendron.  In the fall, the changing foliage colors spread across the valley below like a colorful tapestry (photo from Fall ’08).  Summer brings fog in the valley and dense green foliage all around (photo from May 2007).  In the winter, views are crystal clear and unobstructed for miles and miles.

Big Schloss offers beautiful, panoramic views - especially to the west.
Big Schloss offers beautiful, panoramic views – especially to the west.

The area is popular with central Virginians.  The Wolf Gap campground is often full, and you’ll see hiking groups  – especially on weekends.  We’ve seen everything from hardcore mountain bikers to ultra-distance trail runners on the Mill Mountain trail.  A couple years ago, we even met a team of competitive cyclists helping an injured teammate off the mountain.  The terrain is very rugged, so I imagine you’d have to be an experienced mountain biker to travel this route.

On this particular day, we hiked with my Mom & Dad to celebrate my birthday.  In addition to their wonderful company, I also got the gift of a new hiking gadget before starting the hike.  My parents gave me a pair of Komperdell trekking poles.  I’ve been wanting to get a set of poles for quite some time now, so I was thrilled with the present.  I don’t really have the best of balance, so I loved the added stability the poles gave me hiking down the loose, rocky trail on the return trip.  I was also amazed with how much strain they took off my knees. The model they gave me has cork handles, which are apparently cooler and chafe less than other handle types.

We were surprised to see how many colorful leaves had already fallen.
We were surprised to see how many colorful leaves had already fallen.

When we started out on our hike, the sky was brilliant blue with just an occasional cloud passing by overhead.  By the time we got to the overlook, the sky was mostly cloudy and hazy.  It wasn’t the best view that we’ve ever had from Big Schloss, but it was beautiful nonetheless.  I loved seeing the hints of autumn starting to appear in the forest.  The Virginia creeper was crimson.  A lot of maples and dogwoods were starting to change, too.  At every open viewpoint, we could see distant ridges with red, yellow and orange trees peppered into the greenness.  Fall is definitely on its way, and I think it might be coming early this year.

We really didn’t stay too long at the summit, especially since we had a big picnic lunch waiting for us at the campground.  As Adam mentioned, my mom went nuts with quantity and selection.   I’m not complaining, but seriously… who brings two birthday cakes to a picnic lunch for four people?

My mom even brought birthday candles along.  My family “sang” Happy Birthday to me while the breeze repeatedly blew out the candles.  You’ll notice “sang” is in quote marks.  I have to tell you, my family cannot sing – not a single note.  They’re so bad, it’s become a family joke to make “Happy Birthday to You” sound like the saddest, most off-key, howl-inducing dirge you might ever imagine.  Since we were in a public place, my dad and Adam put extra effort into singing it loudly and badly.  I think I heard babies crying, dogs barking and campers exclaiming “What is that noise?”

After lunch, we parted ways with my parents and headed home.  It was a great hike.

Note: There is another great trail starting out from the Wolf Gap Campground.  If you have a couple days in the area, check out the Tibbet Knob trail.

Trail Notes

  • Distance – 4 milesout-and-back. Add another .1 mile to get to your car.
  • Elevation Change –1000 feet
  • Difficulty – 2.  After a rather steep .7 mile climb at the beginning, the trail is mostly level and follows a ridge.  There is one other short climb after the Mill Mountain Trail meets up with the Big Schloss spur.
  • Trail Conditions – 2.5.  The trail is well-maintained but it’s rocky and has lots of loose footing in the first .7 mile.
  • Views –4.5. The view are pretty spectacular – especially on a clear day.
  • Waterfalls/streams –0. Non-existent.
  • Wildlife – 0 We didn’t see anything beyond chipmunks, birds and squirrels.  We did see a fawn near the Wolf Gap campground.
  • Ease to Navigate – 4.  Just stay straight on the trail.
  • Solitude – 2. This trail doesn’t see the same crowds as trails in Shenandoah National Park, but it is a popular hike with the local crowd.

Download a Trail Map (PDF)

Directions to trailhead:
From I-81, take exit 279.  Follow Rte. 675 until it meets Route 42.  Turn right on 42 and then take almost an immediate left on 675 (Wolf Gap Road).  Follow Wolf Gap Road (you will have to make a few turns so keep an eye at road junctions) until you come to the Wolf Gap Campground (right on the Hardy County Line.)

Cole/Cold Mountain

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Amherst County’s Cole Mountain Loop is a moderate 6 mile hike with serious payoffs at the summit.  Situated in George Washington National Forest’s Pedlar Ranger District, this trail (also know as “Cold Mountain”) is one of Central Virginia’s only hikes to cross a bald, pasture-like summit.  Views of the valley from the saddle and summit are open in every direction.

The Cold Mountain summit is open and offers panoramic views in every direction. In this shot you can see the white Appalachian Trail blaze and the USGS benchmark.
The Cole Mountain summit is open and offers panoramic views in every direction. In this shot you can see the white Appalachian Trail blaze and the USGS benchmark.

Christine Says…

Despite the busyness of our weekend, Adam and I made time to hike the Cole Mountain loop on Sunday morning.  We had read a description of the trail on another hiking site.  Their reviewer compared the summit to Scotland or Switzerland.  I don’t know about that, but it was definitely some of the prettiest Virginia summit scenery I’ve ever seen.

We started out from home at 5:30 in the morning.  It was still dark, but we wanted to hike before the crowds and heat got too bad.  We made a short detour before the hike to visit Statons Creek Falls.  It was just a couple miles from the trailhead, and was well worth a look.

The Appalachian Trail crossing is well-marked. Park across from this sign in a small lot.
The Appalachian Trail crossing is well-marked. Park across from this sign in a small lot.

The forest service road to the Cole Mountain trailhead is unpaved and bumpy.  There is only room for five or six cars at the parking area, which is located right at an Appalachian Trail crossing.

The hike starts out downhill along the forest service road for a couple tenths of a mile.  You’ll soon pick up the blue-blazed Hotel Trail on the right side of the road.  The route follows the Hotel Trail for about 3.5 miles until a junction with the Appalachian Trail (AT).  The AT takes you up a series of switchbacks, across the Cole Mountain summit and eventually back down to the parking lot where you started out.

Just a few of the gorgeous wildflowers on display in the meadow.
Just a few of the gorgeous wildflowers on display in the meadow.  Pictured below:  The old hog wall, the open meadow along the Hotel Trail, a beautiful tree sheltering one of the loveliest backcountry campgrounds in Virginia.

hog wall hotel trail meadow hotel trail meadow campsite_1

The thing I loved about this hike was the ever-changing landscape along the way.  It was a perfect sampling of Virginia’s varied scenery.  The trail started off winding its way down through lush, green beds of ferns sheltered by old hardwoods.  After passing through a short tunnel of pines, the forest gave way to a wide meadow-like clearing filled with shoulder high wildflowers in every shade of pink, purple, yellow and white.   Descending back into the forest, we saw numerous remnants from a bygone mountain farm.  Crumbling stone “hog walls” and errant apple trees were easily spotted along the trail.

The Cow Camp Gap Shelter
The Cow Camp Gap Shelter.  Pictured below:  a checkerboard is painted onto the shelter floor, Adam enjoys reading the shelter journal

checkerboard journal

We took a snack break along a small stream just before the 3 mile mark.  There was a fire pit and log seats that made a perfect place to enjoy some trail mix and water.   We ended up taking another break a few tenths of a mile down the trail when we arrived at the Cow Camp Gap Shelter.  This shelter is just one of many three-sided huts located along (or near) the Appalachian Trail.  This one was especially nice.  There was a checkerboard painted on the floor, with acorn cap and twig game pieces.  The shelter had a newer log book, so there weren’t many entries to enjoy this time.  The site also had the biggest picnic table I’ve ever seen.  It made Adam look like he was hobbit-sized.

The shelter marks the beginning of the only serious uphill climb on this hike.  About a half mile after leaving the shelter, you meet up with the Appalachian Trail and head north.  Along the way, the forest begins to thin out, giving you glimpses of a view from rocky ledges along the trail.

Upon reaching the saddle of Cole Mountain, the terrain changes radically and instantly.  The trees disappear and a wide, pasture-like alley appears across the summit.  The field is dotted with giant boulders and speckled with wildflowers.  It’s a great place for a picnic lunch.  You certainly can’t beat the sweeping views in every direction.

Adam Says…

This truly was a wonderful hike!  I don’t think this hike is very well known to those that don’t live in Central Virginia, but it is a true gem and definitely worth a trip no matter where you live.  We had absolutely perfect hiking weather with beautiful blue skies, dappled with an occasional cloud.  We plan on coming back down to this area soon to try the nearby hike of Mount Pleasant.

Cole Mountain is also commonly known as Cold Mountain (and is listed as such on Hiking Upward), but when we saw its official name through the USGS was Cole Mountain, we are sticking with their name.  I know when I told my family about hiking Cold Mountain, they thought about the movie with Nicole Kidman and Jude Law.  That Cold Mountain is actually in North Carolina, along the Blue Ridge Parkway.

The first lookout point along the Appalachian Trail was already showing some signs of fall.
The first lookout point along the Appalachian Trail was already showing some signs of fall.

To begin the circuit that we chose, we took the Hotel Trail.  The origin of the name is supposedly derived from the landowner Joseph Richeson, whose house was known as The Hotel, due to the number of frequent guests.

Once you start the Hotel Trail, you will almost immediately come to a horse gate.  Go through the horse gate and continue to follow the blue blazes.  You will follow these blue blazes until you reach the junction with the Appalachian Trail.  At .9 miles, you will reach the beautiful field of wildflowers on your left that Christine mentioned.  At around 1.3 miles, you will reach a gorgeous spot for an overnight camp.  I would highly recommend this to anyone that is planning on doing a backpacking trip.  There is a large firepit formed with logs to sit and enjoy some S’mores over an open fire.

From the firepit, look to the northeast and you will see the blue blazes continue.  At 1.7 miles, you will come across the “hog wall”, which is neat to think about people that used this area in the past.  Continue down the trail until you reach the bottom of Cow Camp Gap at 2.9 miles.  On our way down, I heard some strong howling off in the distant which sounded like coyotes.  Since we’ve heard of this from other hikers, there must be some nearby.  You will see on the other side of a small stream, the Cow Camp Gap Shelter.  This is a great spot for any thru-hikers or people that just want to have a packed lunch, rest, or fill up water from the spring.  We always enjoy reading the logs that thru-hikers and backpackers leave during their trips there.  Once you see the shelter on the right, just stay on the trail until you reach the junction just ahead.  The path to the right will take you to the shelter and the spring, but after your stop, you will take the path to the left.   I imagine that during rainier times, this would be a nice spot to hear a trickling stream, but it was dried out when we were there.

From the junction at the shelter, you will have another .5 miles to reach the junction with the Appalachian Trail.  At 3.5 miles, take a right (North) on the Appalachian trail.  You will continue your ascent through a few switchbacks.  At 3.7 miles, you will reach the first of two nice spots for an overlook at the edge of the switchback.  Continue on the trail until you reach the large meadow with the summit.  You will see a few vertical 4 foot high rocks sticking out of the ground.  On the ground in the rock, you will see the USGS benchmark which marks the summit of Cole Mountain at 4,033 feet.  Take a moment to enjoy the views at the summit and continue to follow the AT white blazes going north.  You will see many gorgeous panoramic 360 degree views as you cross along the highlands for a few tenths of a mile.  The scenery was truly breathtaking as we trekked across the highlands of the saddle, across the bald summit. (Note: camping and/or fires are not allowed on the bald of Cold Mountain.) At the end of the meadow at 5.2 miles, you will begin your descent into the woods and back to your vehicle.  You will cross over a fire road, but stay on the white-blazed trail until you reach your vehicle.

Adam makes his way across the bald summit of Cole Mountain.
Adam makes his way across the bald summit of Cole Mountain.  Pictured below:  this bush was heavy with berries.

cold mountain summit_8

If you are into geocaching, there are a two that you can find along the way.  The first is at the “hog wall” and the second is near the summit.  There was also another at Statons Creek Falls, which I feel is one of the prettiest waterfalls in Virginia.  Here are links to the sites for those that are interested:

As a slightly humorous aside, we did see a couple of guys hiking that came over from another mountain.  They had already hiked for about 8 miles, making this hike their second summit.  They were planning on going back the way they came and making it a 17 mile hike to do in one day.  We saw them around noon and they were hoping to make it back to their car around dinner time.  They had a poor map and we tried to show them directions, but they were off quickly.  However, they ended up going the opposite way away from their vehicle.  We thought we should probably check the news to see if they became lost.  I hope they got back safely, but I’m sure they had to reheat their dinner.

I would definitely say that this hike is one of my favorites in Virginia.  The views were exceptional and the scenery along the entire trail was magnificent.  Make this a “must-do” hike in your future planning!  You won’t regret it.

Trail Notes

  • Distance – 6 miles loop
    (Check out the stats from Map My Hike)*
    Note – the MapMyHike stats show the loop in reverse. When we rehiked the route on 6/25/16, we did it the opposite way so we hit the meadow views first.
  • Elevation Change – 1490 feet – The trail starts out both up and down, but the ascent to the summit is about 1.5 miles uphill.
  • Difficulty – 3. The trail starts with some ascents and descents.  Once you meet the AT, you have about a steady uphill for 1.5 miles, but it wasn’t too tough.
  • Trail Conditions – 4. The trail is well-maintained and not too hard on the feet.  There are some downhill portions that have some loose rock.
  • Views – 5. It doesn’t get better than panoramic 360 degree mountain views. We felt the scenery throughout the trail was gorgeous.
  • Waterfalls/streams – 0.5.  There is a stream near the Cow Camp Gap shelter, but it was down to a trickle for us.
  • Wildlife – 1.5. We only saw a deer around here.
  • Ease to Navigate – 3. There aren’t a lot of turns here, but you may feel a little confused starting off.
  • Solitude –3.5. We did encounter a few people, but we had a lot of beauty to ourselves.  Expect to see a few people along the highlands at the top, but there is a ton of room to enjoy the scenery privately.

* MapMyHike is not necessarily accurate, as the GPS signal fades in and out – but it still provides some fun and interesting information.

Directions to trailhead:   Take Exit 188A off of Interstate-81, merging on to US-60 towards Buena Vista.  After going through Buena Vista, take a left at Coffeytown Road/Rte 634.  After 1.6 miles, take a right on to Wiggins Spring Road/Rte 755.  While four-wheel drive isn’t necessary, I would recommend it since it is a rough gravel road.   Stay on this for about 2.5 miles until you reach parking on the left side of the road.  (GPS Coordinates for parking: 37.759652, -79.195336) Park your vehicle and then proceed further down the road for .2 miles.  Before the road splits, you will see two posts marked with blue blazes which will begin the Hotel Trail.

Hightop Mountain

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Hightop Mountain is a nice hike along the Appalachian Trail in the Southern District of Shenandoah National Park.  It features a super view and you can take a short spur trail to view an Appalachian Trail shelter.

It wasn't the prettiest day for hiking, but the view from Hightop was still impressive. Hightop is the tallest peak in the south district of the park.
It wasn’t the prettiest day for hiking, but the view from Hightop was still impressive. Hightop is the tallest peak in the south district of the park.

Adam Says…

Wow, it’s been a while.  Sorry for the delay in posting anything new for a while, but life has just gotten in the way.  We did get to go for a week in the White Mountains of New Hampshire and our annual trip to Acadia National Park in Maine, but we haven’t hiked in Virginia for a while.  We’re just now getting back into the swing of things.  We had a limited time on Sunday to do a hike, so we decided to pick something close by and relatively short.  It was great to get back on the trails!

The hike was very nice.  The trail had a steady uphill the entire way up, but it felt very manageable.  We noticed that the trail was a little more overgrown than normal.  This year has seemed to be great for weeds growing early on in the summer.  Usually we have better views along the side of Skyline Drive and the trails, but things seem to have grown wilder this year.  I’m sure the rain and cooler summer temps have caused this.  The grass and weeds along the way tended to tickle our legs.  The hike didn’t have a lot to view along the way, but it was nice to take a side trip and view the AT cabin and log.  Around 1.2 miles, you will reach the intersection with the Smith Roach Gap Fire Road.  Just cross the road to continue on the AT.  You can reach the AT cabin by taking the spur trail shortly after the intersection with the Smith Roach Gap Fire Road.  I always enjoy reading through the logs of those that have passed through.  In this logbook there was some entries about people bringing the thru-hikers food, some card game scores, and a tale about how a bunch of them danced naked in the evening.

The views at the top really do show you a lot of mountains to the south and you can get nice glimpses of Skyline Drive.  On a nice fall day, this could be a great photo opportunity when the leaves change color.

On the way back after .6 miles, you can take the option of taking the Smith Roach Gap Fire Road back to your car by taking a left, but the fire road looked very overgrown, so we opted to just go back the way we came.

Hightop Hut
Hightop Hut offers a nice rest stop for weary hikers and backpackers. Below: The hut has a trail journal.  They are always a lot of fun to read.

Journal

Christine Says…

It was so great to get back out on the trail again!  I loved lacing my boots up, feeling the trail crunching under my soles and hearing the sounds of late summer bees buzzing lazily through the wild flowers.  I’ve been out of the woods for far too long.

The hike up Hightop is one we’ve done several times now, but we’ve always approached the summit as an out-and-back from the northern end of the trail.  It’s shorter and steeper, but gets you to the same viewpoint.  I actually enjoyed this southern approach quite a bit more.  The grade was very gentle and gradual.  This route also gave us the opportunity to visit the Hightop Hut.  I always like to stop by the AT shelters and read the trail journals.

This cute little toad was one of the few wildlife specimens we saw along our walk.
This cute little toad was one of the few wildlife specimens we saw along our walk.

The view from the summit of Hightop was beautiful.  The sky may have been cloudy, but we could still see ten layers of mountain ridges fading into the distant southwest.  We also got a nice view of our “home” mountain – Massanutten.

After the hike, Adam and I started casually tossing around the idea of doing a long backpacking trip next summer.  We might try to hike the 101 miles of the Appalachian Trail through Shenandoah National Park sometime next spring.  The more we talk about it, the less casual the idea seems.  We’ll see…

Trail Notes

  • Distance – 3.8 miles out-and-back which includes an optional .2 mile trip to an AT shelter
  • Elevation Change –967 feet
  • Difficulty – 2.  While it is a steady uphill the way up, it’s not too steep of a grade.
  • Trail Conditions – 4.  The trail is well-traveled and well-maintained.
  • Views –3. At the summit, you do have a chance to get some nice views of Skyline Drive and beyond.  We counted a series of 10 ridges of depth at the top.
  • Waterfalls/streams –0. Non-existent.
  • Wildlife – .5 Other than a toad, we only saw one doe.  There also didn’t appear to be a lot of birds on this trail.
  • Ease to Navigate – 4.  Just stay straight on the trail.
  • Solitude – 3.5 This trail doesn’t see a lot of traffic, but would be busier during the AT thru-hiking in the summer.

Directions to trailhead:
Park on the east side of Skyline Drive at Smith Roach Gap (around mile marker 68.5).  At the end of the parking lot, go on the fire road.  The trail takes off about 10 yards on the left.

Mary’s Rock

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This hike to Mary’s Rock starts from Jewell Hollow.  The route follows the Appalachian Trail for roughly three miles to Mary’s Rock.  After spending some time enjoying the views, simply retrace your steps back to Jewell Hollow for a total hike of roughly six miles.  There are other ways to reach the summit, but in our opinion, this route offers the best scenery and the most pleasant trail conditions.

Adam enjoys the view from Mary's Rock.
Adam enjoys the view from Mary’s Rock. Below: Check out this photo from one of our website visitors, Martine Zimmer.  She spotted a rock on the Mary’s Rock summit that looked like a bear!  It really does!

Adam Says…

Mary’s Rock is a great view hike on the Appalachian Trail.  There are many theories on how the summit got its name, but my favorite one is that Francis Thornton’s daughter Mary climbed up to the rock and came back down carrying a bear cub under each arm.   Francis Thornton III owned a lot of land to the east of the Blue Ridge Mountains and Thornton Gap is named for him.

The trail is rocky and passes many large boulders.
The trail is rocky and passes many large boulders.

We have hiked to Mary’s Rock numerous times in the traditional way, from the trailhead at Panorama, but the trail from Jewell Hollow is not one to be missed.  In my opinion, this is definitely one of the best hikes to do in the park for scenery.  In the fall, you will be able to see great colorful views looking into the western valley below.

The trail is probably roughest during the first .75 miles, but then the rocks tend to give way to easier footing.  There are great places to take in the views at .85 miles at the Pinnacle and at another overlook at 2.0 miles.  You will also pass a AT hiker hut (Byrd’s Nest #3) about halfway through the trip.

The columbine is starting to bloom all over the park. We saw tons of it along the trail.
The columbine is starting to bloom all over the park. We saw tons of it along the trail.

Despite the fact that we had to rush to make it back to the car by sunset, we really enjoyed this trail.  We saw a bear on the trail going up and probably the same one again coming back.   On the way back, I was probably only 75 feet away when the bear crossed our path, but he quickly took off as soon as he realized we were nearby.  We also encountered two large bucks on the trail, too.  When we saw the first one, we were coming downhill and it appeared that the buck wanted to stand his ground and approach us.  So, we yelled at him and shooed him back into the forest.

The Byrd's Nest #3 Shelter is a popular camping spot for backpackers.
The Byrd’s Nest #3 Shelter is a popular camping spot for backpackers.  The shelter was day-use only until 2008.  It has since been remodeled for overnighters.

There is a geocache at the top of Mary’s Rock requiring you to identify dates on the USGS markers.  You will have to climb up on the steep rocks to find them, but if you feel comfortable scrambling on rocks, this isn’t too tough.

Christine Says…

What can I say… we didn’t do a very good job using the distance scale on our map for this hike! I would have sworn that our PATC map made the hike look like 3.5 – 4 miles total, rather than the 6 miles it actually turned out to be. Normally, that wouldn’t be a big deal, but we didn’t start walking until 5:45 p.m.

This was the first time we’ve accessed Mary’s Rock via the Appalachian Trail. In the past, we’ve always gone by-the-book, and followed the designated Mary’s Rock trail. That trail begins at the Panorama parking lot, and makes its way up the mountain via a series of switchbacks. The Mary’s Rock trail is fine, but it’s really quite boring in way of scenery and views. The hike we did along the AT is longer, but it’s also flatter and tremendously more scenic.

The Pinnacle offers spectacular views.
The Pinnacle offers spectacular views.

The trail we hiked primarily follows the ridgeline, making one dip down through a saddle between the mountains. The trail is lined with ferns, mountain laurels and rhododendrons. There are many truck-sized boulders along the trail. They kind of look like graveyard headstones for giants. At the .85 mile mark, hikers are treated to an absolutely spectacular view from the Pinnacles, which is the highest point in Rappahannock County. The craggy, boulder-strewn mountains sweep down into the valley, hawks soar below and you get a nice look at Mary’s Rock way off in the distance. As I was enjoying the Pinnacles view, I said to Adam “You know… Mary’s Rock still looks pretty far off. Are you sure we got the distance right? We’re not going to be hiking back in the dark, are we?” He responded “Nah, we’re fine! You need to trust my map reading skills.”

A while later, we passed the Byrd’s Nest #3 Shelter, which was close to the halfway point of the walk up to Mary’s Rock. Time was passing quickly, and I was getting the distinct feeling that the hike was longer than the mileage we estimated. I started to get a bit squirrely at this point. We didn’t have headlamps or a flashlight, and I seriously did not want to get stuck out on the trail after sun down. A lot of the trail’s footing is made up of loose rocky terrain that twists its way through dense mountain laurel thickets. Also, there was a bear lurking in the area – we had heard him crashing through the woods and seen his rounded ears peeking up through the brush.

A back view of Mary's Rock.
A back view of Mary’s Rock.

After passing the shelter, we started almost jogging the trail to make sure we’d have ample daylight for the return trip. We got to the summit around 7:20, just a little over an hour before sunset. Mary’s Rock is an impressive rock outcropping that overlooks both the Shenandoah Valley and a little bit of the eastern Piedmont. In the late afternoon, the light is so warm and lovely on the rock. We enjoyed the vista for a couple minutes, and then promptly began our return trip. Along the way back, we crossed paths with about a half dozen thru-hikers. Many of them were setting up camp at the Byrd’s Nest shelter. We hiked the entire return trip very quickly, and made it back to our car just about ten minutes before the sun set.  As we stepped off the trail onto Skyline Drive, I noticed a bear with cubs in the woods on the other side of the road.  It was nice to see the bear family as a grand finale for our hike.

We saw this adorable cub and his mother right as we finished the hike.
We saw this adorable cub and his mother right as we finished the hike.

Under normal, non-rushed circumstances, I’d have to say this is one of the prettiest and most pleasant hikes I’ve ever done in the park. I’d love to go back and re-hike it in the fall. I think the views along the way would offer some amazing places to photograph the fall foliage. And from now on, we’re not hiking anything over three miles in the evening.

Trail Notes

  • Distance – 6 miles total,  out-and-back
    (Check out the stats from MapMyHike)*
  • Elevation Change – About 800 ft.
  • Difficulty – 2. Nice and mostly level, with only a few very moderate climbs.
  • Trail Conditions – 3. There are some loose and pointy rocks along several sections of the trail.  If you don’t pay attention, this trail can be an ankle-turner.  But overall the trail is smooth and well-maintained.
  • Views – 4. On a clear day – the views are amazing!
  • Waterfalls/streams – 0. Non-existent
  • Wildlife – 5. Bears, bucks, chipmunks, rabbits, squirrels and many species of birds.  It was a great trail to see animals.
  • Ease to Navigate – 4. After a very brief walk on the Leading Ridge trail, you follow the AT all the way up to Mary’s Rock.  You will not see signs for Mary’s Rock until the cement marker post at the Meadow Springs trail junction.
  • Solitude – 3. You probably won’t see many hikers between Jewell Hollow and the Meadow Springs Trail junction (with the exception of AT hikers in June).  However, the officially designated Mary’s Rock is very popular.  It is likely you will see many people in the last mile before reaching Mary’s Rock.

Directions to trailhead: The trail is located on Skyline Drive at mile marker 37.  Park at the Jewell Hollow Overlook.  Walk 50 yards north on Skyline Drive.  You’ll see a cement marker for the Leading Ridge trail on the west side of the drive.  Follow the Leading Ridge trail for .1 of a mile to a junction with the AT.  Turn right and proceed from there.

* MapMyHike is not necessarily accurate, as the GPS signal fades in and out – but it still provides some fun and interesting information.

The Priest

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The Priest is a wonderful segment hike along the Appalachian Trail in the George Washington National Forest’s Glenwood & Pedlar Ranger District.  The northbound trail access may be a little tough for some people to reach (4WD vehicles are strongly recommended), but if you can get there, you’ll be treated to magnificent views of the Tye River Valley.

Adam enjoys the view from The Priest
Adam enjoys the view from The Priest

Adam Says…

This was hike number two for us on a three-hike-day.  This was our first trip up The Priest, and it was well-worth the bumpy drive to get to the trail.   See the directions to trailhead (below) for some special precautions to take when approaching the trailhead.  On route 826, we decided to go a little further than  Crabtree Meadows, but didn’t make it all the way up by car to the AT junction.  We ended up parking at a campsite and hiking up the fire road for .3 miles.  Many people will want to park at Crabtree Meadows, but that will add one mile to the overall distance.  Route 826 can be quite steep. In fact, some sections of the road are much steeper than anything you’ll see on the actual trail.  We saw a Jeep brigade coming down the steepest section of road, but they looked like seasoned off-roaders.

Route 826 gets progressively rougher.
Route 826 gets progressively rougher. Pictured below: A group of off-roaders make their way down the road.

When you reach the junction (you’ll see painted rocks indicating north/south) of the Appalachian trail, head north (left).  You will come across the Priest Wilderness sign and trail map. When I was telling someone earlier about doing this trail today, they were wondering about the origin of the name “The Priest”.  The true origin is unknown, but there are a few myths.  The first is that it was named after the DuPriest family that lived in the area.  The second is that a minister in the area gave some of these nearby mountains religious names.  The Cardinal and The Friar are both close to The Priest.

Adam enjoys reading the journal at the AT shelter.
Adam enjoys reading the journal at the AT shelter.  Pictured Below: Some of the entries are funny, some divulge a little bit too much information.

journal_3

We found that the trail was a steady incline, but nothing too strenuous.  There was supposed to be a side trail to The Little Priest at .7 miles, but we didn’t see it (but we weren’t looking too hard).  At .9 miles, you will see a blue-blazed spur trail to an Appalachian Trail shelter.  We definitely recommend taking the extra .2 mile round trip to visit the shelter.  These shelters are a great place for all of the AT hikers to get together and have a roof over their head for a night.  At most of the shelters, you can find a journal in which the hikers will write about their day or plans, leave notes for other hikers, etc.  Since this hike is The Priest, the theme of this logbook was to make a confession.  It was a lot of fun to read through the journal entries.  These confessions ranged from eating two Poptarts, to taking drugs, to not paying for supplies.  If you happen to be hiking the trail in June when most of the AT thru-hikers are passing through, consider bringing along some treats to share.  It’s a form of “trail magic” and is always appreciated.  (read the guidelines – there are some tips for dispensing good magic on the Appalachian Trail Conservancy Site)  We did see a few thru-hikers on the trail today, but we hadn’t thought ahead to bring anything.

Around 1.3 miles, you will see some overhanging rocks to the north that lead to some marvelous views.  Take some time to enjoy the views.  The summit is only .1 mile further, but there are no views at the summit.  We really enjoyed this hike and hope to do this one again as well as the nearby Spy Rock.

Christine Says…

The Priest was probably my favorite of the three hikes we did on this particular day. Discovering a new hike is always a real treat, especially when it turns out to be as nice as this one.

There are actually two different ways to access the summit of The Priest. The southbound ascent is longer and much tougher – it follows the AT along a series of forty switchbacks with just over 3000 feet of elevation gain. It might be the hike with the most elevation gain in all of Virginia. One hiker remarked in the journal that the southbound climb “made him realize that he’s not the man he thought he was.” I guess that’s one way of saying that the hike was a long, tough haul!

We chose the northbound ascent primarily based on our limited time. The hike was listed in our book as strenuous, but I did not find it to be tough at all. The uphill grade was constant, but gentle. Adam and I were easily able to carry on conversation without any huffing and puffing uphill.

The terrain on this hike was so pretty! Along the first part of the trail, forest floor was blanketed with lush ferns. Every now and then, we could catch glimpses through the trees of the valley below. The summit of The Priest is 4,063 feet, so we were pretty high up (by Virginia standards, anyhow).

This appeared to be a popular campsite.
This appeared to be a popular campsite.

When we finally gained the ridge, there was a perfect (and obviously popular) campsite. Encircling the area was a collection of huge boulders arranged in an almost Zen-like natural sculpture. Amidst the boulders, there was a fire pit and a large smooth, open place to set up tents. If I were to spend a night along the trail, this would be my ideal kind of campsite.

Shortly after the campsite, the trail split. One arm headed down to the shelter and the other continued along the AT up to the summit of The Priest. This section of trail was lined with mountain laurels and wild azaleas in full bloom. Several places along the trail were covered with a carpet of pink and white flower petals that had been blown from the bushes. It was almost dreamlike to walk through all the flowers. In the tree tops, we heard the constant sweet sound of warblers singing. We even caught a few glimpses of the birds. The ridge is fairly level, so this walking was very easy and pleasant.

Wild Azalea flowers carpeted the forest floor.
Wild Azalea flowers carpeted the forest floor. Pictured below: Many of the azaleas and mountain laurels were still in full bloom.

I had read that the summit of The Priest was a lovely shady place, but didn’t offer much in the way of panoramic views. So, it was much to my surprise and delight to find a worn path through the woods that led to an amazing outcropping of rocks with spectacular views of the entire valley below. Even though it was close to high noon, I loved photographing this spot along the trail. The sky conditions were a photographer’s dream – cerulean blue punctuated with both swishes and puffs of white cloud.

The summit was spectacular.
The summit was spectacular.

Adam and I sat on this spot for a good, long while. We shared a chocolate donut and some water, watched the hawks soar below and took in the valley view. Afterwards, we made the short walk to the actual summit. There was a fat toad sitting right along the trail at the summit. I like to think of him as the official summit marker.

This toad was our summit marker.
This toad was our summit marker.

The hike back down to the car was fun – all downhill – just the way I like it!

Trail Notes

  • Distance – 2.8 miles out-and-back. We also recommend adding the .2 mile trail down to the AT shelter. If you park at Crabtree Meadows, add a mile on to the trail’s total length.
  • Elevation Change – 1,000 feet
  • Difficulty – 2. While the trail does have a moderate elevation change, the uphill is not too tough.  If you have to hike up the fire road from Crabtree Meadows to get to the trailhead, that will be much tougher than anything along the AT.
  • Trail Conditions – 4. Like most of the AT in Virginia, this section is nicely maintained.
  • Views – 4. Gorgeous views of about 150 degrees of views out into the Tye River Valley
  • Waterfalls/streams – 0. None, but there is a small spring-fed water source near the shelter.
  • Wildlife – 1.5. We didn’t see much, but this is wilderness area.  There are lots of nice birds for any ornithologists.  We saw a cerulean warbler, which has such a gorgeous song.
  • Ease to Navigate – 4.5. Just stay on the AT.
  • Solitude –4. Since it is difficult to get to, you may run across some backpackers or AT thru-hikers, but not many others.

Directions to trailhead: The best access to this trail is via VA-826.  If you are approaching from I-81, take exit 205 towards Steeles Tavern.  Take a left on to Rte. 11 and then a quick right on to VA-56 heading east.  Follow this past the Blue Ridge Parkway (near BRP Mile Marker 30) and then take a right shortly after the Fish Hatchery on to VA-826.  There is a sign at the entrance that you need to have four-wheel drive to travel on this road.  It is a bumpy gravel road where you have to cross several small streams.  Once you reach Crabtree Meadows, it is .5 mile before you can reach the AT trailhead to start The Priest trail.  Many cars should be able to get up to Crabtree Meadows, but the last .5 mile should be taken cautiously and done only if you have a confident driver and appropriate vehicle.

Hawksbill Summit Loop

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The Hawksbill Summit is a fairly easy, 2.9 mile trail that takes you to the highest peak of Shenandoah National Park at 4,049 feet.

This is the first of the four summit views you'll come to along the Hawksbill Loop Trail.
This is the first of the four summit views you’ll come to along the Hawksbill Loop Trail. Pictured below (left to right): The third viewpoint – the hack box for the falcon chicks is along this rock shelf; The CCC constructed summit; Adam climbing around the rock jumble at the summit.

Hawksbill Summit Hawksbill Summit - Shenandoah National Park Adam on Summit

Adam Says…

We really had one of those almost perfect days in Shenandoah National Park.  We made it up to the park before 7AM.  There was a lot of fog on the mountains that made for tough visibility, so we decided to grab breakfast at Skyland Resort before setting out on our hike.  While we were eating breakfast, our waitress pointed out a black bear right outside the dining room window.  It stayed out there for several minutes while people photographed it (they got really close – within 10-15 feet of the bear). While Christine made an attempt to grab her camera from the car for her own photo opportunity (which she missed), I noticed the AT thru-hiker we met on the Loft Mountain Loop had just sat down to dive into a hearty breakfast.  I talked to him about how we were thinking about him braving the thunderstorms the last few days.  He said that the Tuesday night storms had indeed been brutal.

After breakfast, we drove south from Skyland to start our hike on Hawksbill Summit.  The posted trail board listed an out-and-back hike of 1.7 miles and a loop hike of 2.8 miles.  We decided to do the loop and were very glad that we did!

Peregrine Falcons are such fast flyers. Adam took this shot and felt lucky to have even part of the bird, in-focus and in the frame.
Hawksbill Mountain is a great place to watch birds of prey.  While I was photographing the scenery, Adam took this shot of a bird soaring overhead. He felt pretty lucky to have even part of the bird, in-focus and in the frame.  He sometimes feels overwhelmed by all the controls on the dSLR, but I think he does a great job whenever he takes photos.

At around the half mile mark, we heard some screeching up ahead and above.  We came up to the first of three talus slopes and sure enough there were a pair of peregrine falcons swooping around.  We tried to get some pictures of them flying, but they swooped by way too quickly for the camera to lock focus.  When we came to the second talus slope, one of the falcons had landed about 15 feet in front of me, gave me a quick cry, and darted off at eye level from us.  We’ve never had an opportunity to see these birds up close.  We usually vacation in Acadia National Park every summer.  The park’s Precipice Trail is a great place to view falcons; however, this trail is closed off during much of the summer for falcon nesting and we have had to resort to viewing them through binoculars.

The Byrd's Nest #2 Shelter is available for day use only. It's a three-sided structure.
The Byrd’s Nest #2 Shelter is available for day use only. It’s a three-sided structure.

Once we arrived at the Byrd’s Nest Day Shelter near the summit, we ran into a SNP Volunteer who has been monitoring falcon activity in the area.  Shenandoah National Park has been working with the College of William & Mary’s Center for Conservation Biology to help reintroduce these birds to the park ecosystem.  It was fascinating to learn about these birds of prey. He pointed out the cliff-side hack box that currently houses six falcon chicks.  Students find falcons nesting around Williamsburg and Norfolk, grab the babies when they’re a few weeks old and deliver them to SNP for rehoming.

The volunteer feeds the falcon chicks twice per day, giving the birds quail through a slot door in the hack box. The chicks never actually see the person.  The goal is to keep the chicks completely unaware of the human intervention.

The feeder told us a funny story about his time on the mountainside. He was on his way to feed the birds that morning when he was charged by a deer.  He reached for a slingshot he had in his pocket, but the deer was too close.  He ended up using the slingshot as a club and thumping the doe lightly on the head.  It just stared at him like he was crazy.  He realized as he looked down that he had almost stepped on her newborn fawn.

The volunteer told us that there was a belief that the peregrine falcon pair that we saw was moving over from their established nest site on Old Rag.   They have been observing the Old Rag falcons for a while, and are hoping they stay put.  If the Old Rag falcons relocate to Hawksbill, the hack box holding the chicks will have to be moved to a new location.  The volunteer was trying to read numbers on the bands of the falcons swooping by to see if he could identify them as the same pair from Old Rag.

After a bit more chatting, we left the volunteer and proceeded on to the summit.  When we came back to the shelter, we noticed that there were now three falcons swooping around near the summit.  We found the volunteer and told him.  He told us that seeing the three falcons might help prove that these birds might not be the pair from Old Rag.  We felt proud to have been able to provide some useful information for their research.

Christine Says…

It’s kind of ironic, but Adam really didn’t want to go to the park at all on this particular morning.  He thought the trails would be sloppy-muddy from all the rain.  Also, he was longing for a morning of sleeping in, followed by loafing on the couch and possibly even some video games.  But, being the insanely cruel morning person I am, I dragged him out of bed and told him that I wanted to hike Hawksbill.  After all was said and done, he ended up declaring this to be “one of our best days in the park ever!”

At the trailhead, Adam lobbied for the shorter out-and-back, but I really wanted to do the longer loop.  It’s more scenic and there are many more opportunities to see wildlife along the way.  Besides, the out and back is a tough, boring, uphill climb – straight up the side of Hawksbill Mountain.  You don’t see anything special – you just climb.

I bet this magnificent buck gets a lot of female attention in the fall.
I bet this magnificent buck gets a lot of female attention in the fall. The photo below is another of the bucks from the group.

Buck

A quarter mile into the hike, we saw three impressive bucks.  Even this early in the season, these guys were already displaying large, velvety racks of antlers. During the summer months, it’s not uncommon to see groups of big bucks hanging out in mini-herds like this.  I think they’re planning strategies on how to get the girls in the fall.  🙂  They were completely indifferent to our presence, so we stayed and watched them for a few moments.  I wish it hadn’t been so dark in the forest.  I would have loved to get some better photos of these handsome guys.

This is the talus slope where we first spotted the peregrine falcons.
This is the talus slope where we first spotted the peregrine falcons.

Seeing the falcons near the talus slopes was simply amazing.  I’ve never seen peregrines so close in the wild before.  They’re truly expert aerial acrobats.  I also really liked talking to the naturalist at the summit.  No matter how much time I spend in the park, I still feel like I see and learn new things on every visit.

Our view at the CCC-established summit was largely obscured by clouds and fog, but it was still a beautiful, breezy day.  Hawksbill gives full views in every direction.  You get a nice look at Skyline Drive winding its way through the forest and a wonderful, distant view of magnificent Old Rag Mountain.  Hawksbill Mountain actually has four excellent viewpoints along the summit. You only see two on the out and back hike.  Typically you can see all four on the loop hike, but on this particular day one viewpoint was closed off for the falcons.

Although you can't tell in the photo, the trail back down Hawksbill Mountain is quite steep.
Although it’s relatively level here, the trail back down Hawksbill Mountain is quite steep.

The hike back down is pretty steep, but the trail is well-maintained and covered with gravel.  My knees always ache climbing down Hawksbill – there are no switchbacks to gentle the grade.  It’s straight down the mountainside.  Hikers should be careful to follow the correct trail back down the mountain!  There are trails leading back to Upper Hawksbill and Lower Hawksbill parking lots.  There is also a fire road.  If you don’t pay attention to the cement marking posts, you may end up on the wrong trail and have an extra mile or so of hiking to do along Skyline Drive to make it back to your car.  We saw a couple who had made that exact mistake walking along the road when we finished our hike.  They didn’t look too happy.

Trail Notes

  • Distance – 2.9 mile loop.  A 1.7 mile strenuous out-and-back is one option, but the loop is recommended for it’s scenic beauty and wildlife viewing potential.
  • Elevation Change – 800 ft
  • Difficulty – 1.5.  If you do the loop.  The out and back may be shorter, but it’s more strenuous.
  • Trail Conditions – 4. The AT portion is well-maintained.  The trail down from the summit is covered with small gravel.
  • Views – 4.  The view from the summit is impressive on a clear day.
  • Waterfalls/streams  – 0.  No streams on this trail.
  • Wildlife – 4. We did hit some great luck this day, but we saw several deer including three bucks and you have some decent chances of spotting peregrine falcons in the summer.
  • Ease to Navigate – 3.   There are a couple turns,  but the directions are well-marked on cement posts. Pay attention on your way back down the mountain.  There are several descents to choose from.
  • Solitude – 2.  The hike is fairly popular and featured often with SNP handouts, but we never seem to run into many people up there.  I hear the summit gets very crowded on pleasant weekend afternoons.

Directions to trailhead:

Park at the Hawksbill Gap parking lot which is located around mile marker 45.6 in the Central Section of Skyline Drive.  The trail can be done as an out-and-back hike taking a steep trail to the summit, but we recommend that instead of going straight up to the summit,  take the spur trail to the Appalachian Trail and follow the signs to the Hawksbill Summit.