Tag: virginia hiking

The Devil’s Marbleyard

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This 8.1 mile hike passes an impressive boulder field then climbs along the Gunter Ridge trail for some nice (but obstructed) views.

Devil's Marbleyard Scramble
Adam scrambles around the Marbleyard. Below: The hike begins on the Belfast Trail; Entrance to the National Forest is marked by a placard. The two stone pillars mark an old Boy Scout camp that used to be located in this area. You can still see the footprint of the swimming pool and a few building foundations along the Belfast Trail. The camp was named after Chief Powhatan; Catawba Rhododendron were in bloom everywhere!

Start of the Belfast Trail National Forest Marker Rhododendron on Gunter Ridge

Christine Says…

We keep a list of hikes we want to do stuck with a magnet to the side of our refrigerator. The Devil’s Marbleyard hike had been on that list for nearly three years. It kept getting delayed for closer hikes or hikes with better views or taller waterfalls.  We finally decided it was time to knock it off the list.

We got up early Sunday morning, grabbed donuts, bagels and coffee en route and made our way down the Blue Ridge Parkway. We got to the trailhead parking area around 10:00 and thankfully found only a couple other cars there.  Evidently, cars that overflow the official parking lot are frequently towed.  So, if you hike this trail, make sure your car is in the lot or that all four wheels are off the road and not on private property.

Belfast Creek
The beginning of the trail takes you over Belfast Creek. Below: The bridge over the creek;  Adam crossing a small stream early in the hike; All the recent rainy weather made conditions ideal for snails.

Belfast Trail Bridge Second Stream Crossing Snail

After crossing a small bridge over a stream, the trail passes through an old stone gateway that used to mark entry to a Boy Scout camp called ‘Camp Powhatan’.  You immediately come to a National Forest/Wilderness placard.  At this point, you’re only a little over a mile from the Devil’s Marbleyard.   (The sign says one mile, but our GPS and most trail guides seem to say it’s about 1.4 miles to reach the Marbleyard).  The trail meanders through the woods, crossing shallow spots on the creek a couple times.

I really enjoyed seeing the blooming azaleas, Catawba rhododendron and mountain laurel.  The laurel bloomed so early this year!  What I did not enjoy were the locusts!  The Blue Ridge Brood of the seventeen-year cicada is currently emerging in our area, and they were everywhere along the Belfast Creek trail. They were screaming overhead in the trees — I likened the sound to the one made by a failing belt tensioner on our SUV a few years ago.  It’s a squeal mixed with an undertone of hiss.  Not only are the locusts noisy – they’re CREEPY!  Sometimes they fly into you.  They have red eyes.  And worst of all, they leave yellowish-clear, crunchy, empty husks everywhere when they molt.  I will be very glad when locust season is over and I can have seventeen years of peace again!

Blooming Along the Trail
So much stuff was blooming along the trail.  Below: Christine checks out the large boulders that make up the Devil’s Marbleyard;  Adam climbs back down the Marbleyard to rejoin the trail; A creepy locust husk.

Christine on the Marbleyard  Adam Climbing Down Gross Locust Husk

As we came upon the Marbleyard, we crossed paths with the hikers from the two other cars we had seen in the lot.  The first was a nice guy from Virginia Beach who was at the tail end of a week-long hiking vacation along the Blue Ridge Parkway.  We enjoyed chatting with him and sharing information and tips about favorite hikes.  The second was a pair of local kids who warned us of muddy/slippery conditions on the trail ahead.  Adam had a little incident there, but I’ll let him share that tale in his portion of the post.

Before proceeding up the trail, we took some time to explore the Marbleyard.  Basically, it looks like an immense stone mountain exploded and collapsed into thousands of boulders of every shape and size.  If you want to climb to the top of the Marbleyard, you have to do so by scrambling up the rocks. It looks like the trail alongside the Marbleyard reaches the top, but in reality the trail turns slightly away from the boulder field and climbs upward to the Gunter Ridge trail. I imagine most hikers visit the Marbleyard and then head back to their car, making this a short 2.8 out and back.  We considered doing this, but since we had already driven so far, we decided to do the full 8.3 mile loop.

After playing on the rocks for a while, we headed along… climbing uphill for a while until we reached the junction of the Belfast trail and the Gunter Ridge trail. At this spot there is a spacious (but dry) campsite.

Steep Trail Alongside the Marbleyard
Christine climbs the steep trail that runs alongside the Marbleyard. Below: The junction of the Belfast and Gunter Ridge trails;  Adam spotted a black widow spider along the trail; Christine walks past an especially pretty stand of mountain laurel.

Top of the Ridge Black Widow Christine Walking Through the Laurels

The Gunter Ridge trail was easy walking, but was quite overgrown.  Because of the heat and humidity, I had decided to hike in shorts and a t-shirt, so I started to worry about ticks climbing onto my legs from the tall grass.  Adam, on the other hand, hiked in long pants tucked into his socks.  I’m getting ahead of myself, but guess who came home with six ticks crawling on his clothes – and guess who came home with none crawling on her.  I always joke that my husband is a real ‘tick magnet’.

The trail along this section really opens up and provides some nice, but slightly obstructed, views.  A forest fire that swept through this area about a decade ago is still very evident.  There are no tall trees and charred stumps can be seen peeking up through the brushy vegetation in many places.

After walking along the ridge for a while, you come to a seemingly endless series of switchbacks climbing down the mountain. Eventually you reach a wooden horse gate, and cross out of designated wilderness into standard National Forest.  Almost immediately after passing through the gate,  you will encounter a stream.  We stopped here for lunch.  I had been wanting to eat for almost an hour, but this was the first place that really had an opening to sit and eat since the campsite at the junction of the Gunter Ridge and Belfast trails.

Mountain View on Gunter Ridge Trail
A hazy mountain view from the Gunter Ridge Trail.  Below: Damage from a forest fire about ten years ago is still very evident;  A view of mountains and clouds along the trail.

Old Forest Fire Damage on Gunter Ridge Mountains and Clouds on Gunter Ridge

After lunch, we still had a couple miles of walking along the Glenmont Horse trail.  It was easy hiking, but also really boring.  It’s the part of the hike where you know you’ve seen all the cool stuff, but you still have several miles of walking along a featureless road/path.  It reminded me a lot of all the fire road/paved road walking at the end of the Old Rag hike.

All in all, the hike to Devil’s Marbleyard made for a pleasant day. But, if I were to recommend the hike to others, I’d suggest just hiking to the Marbleyard as an out-and-back.  If the rhododendron, laurel and azaleas hadn’t been blooming, I don’t think there was much to see on the rest of the loop.

Adam Says…

It has been about 20 years since I last hiked the Devil’s Marbleyard trail.  Those that know me personally or have read this blog for a while know I grew up in Lynchburg.  Some of the hikes that are most popular with people around there are Sharp Top, Flat Top, and Devil’s Marbleyard.  The first two have great views and are close to Peaks of Otter, a popular picnic area.  The last time I did this hike I was with with a group of friends from home.  I remember the boulder field seemed so impressive.  While there are similar slopes of rock along Furnace Mountain and Hawksbill summit (among others), these boulders are much larger.  My friends and I climbed up the boulders from the bottom of the field.  One of my friends almost stepped on a rattlesnake that was sunning itself on the rocks.  I’m sure a number of rattlesnakes make their home in the cracks between the rocks, so be careful.  The climb up to the top takes longer than you would expect and requires a lot of energy to navigate the scramble.  Since we planned on hiking a long loop, we opted to just climb around a while on the bottom.

Beautiful Mountain Laurel
Beautiful mountain laurel along the ridge hike.  Below: Stopping to enjoy the mountain laurel; Passing out of the designated wilderness area; Lunch by the stream.

Christine and Mountain Laurel Leaving the Wilderness Area Lunch by the Stream

With every interesting geological feature, there seems to be a legend that has been passed down over the years and Devil’s Marbleyard is no different.  In the local tale, this area was occupied by Native Americans and the land was supposedly very green and lush.  There was a large stone altar at the top of this hill that was used for worship on full-moon nights.  A white couple met the Native Americans and they were thought to be spirits since they looked so different than the local tribes.  The couple said they were not spirits but they worshiped a higher power.  They converted the Native Americans to Christianity.  However, the next year brought about a great drought and the Native Americans felt the new God and the missionaries were to be held responsible.  They burned the couple alive on the altar.  As the flames reached high into the sky, a storm formed.  Lightning struck down upon the altar and exploded the rock over the mountainside.

Christine and I talked about this legend on the hike.  I guess there can be a few different morals to the story depending on your perspective.  From the perspective of the white missionaries, it may be best to not spread your religion to others if you want to stay alive.  From the perspective of the Native Americans, it may be to either believe your own gods or keep faith in your new God.  It is an interesting thing to think about on this hike, even if there may not be much truth to the origin of the boulder slope.

The Glenmont Horse Trail
Walking along the Glenmont Horse Trail gets tedious.

To complete the full loop hike, begin in the parking lot and cross the bridge and take the blue-blazed Belfast Trail.  At .2 miles, the trail splits.  Bear right to stay on the blue-blazed trail.  The trail is a rocky, uphill climb that leads to the Devil’s Marbleyard boulder field at 1.4 miles.  Continue up the trail which follows parallel to the right of the boulders up a steep section (which can also be very slippery if there has been recent rain – as I found out with a hard fall onto slick rock).  After you near the summit of the boulder field, the steepness of the trail lessens.  At 2.5 miles, you reach a junction with the Gunter Ridge Trail and a small campsite.  The Gunter Ridge Trail heads off to the left heading down the mountain slightly, but you are mostly following along a ridge line.  Eventually, this trail begins to open up to some obstructed but nice views on the ridge.  The trail then descends quickly through a series of switchbacks.  At 5.8 miles, you will exit the James River Face Wilderness boundary through a gate and cross Little Hellgate Creek.  At the 6.0 mile mark, you will reach the orange-blazed Glenwood Horse Trail, a large fire road.  Follow this to the left and make your way along this trail that does go slightly uphill until reaching the junction with the Belfast Trail at 7.9 miles.  Take a right on the Belfast Trail to reach the parking lot at 8.1 miles.

If you are interested in geocaching, there is one geocache that can be found on the scramble up the boulders at the Devil’s Marbleyard – Devils Marble Yard Cache.

Like Christine, I would probably recommend that if you were coming here to see the best features of the trail, I would just do this as a 2.8 mile out-and-back to the Marbleyard and back.  The views from the top of the Gunter Ridge Trail are more obstructed and doesn’t seem necessary when there are many other nice view hikes nearby on the Blue Ridge Parkway.

Trail Notes

  • Distance – 8.1 miles
  • Elevation Change – 1510 feet
  • Difficulty – 3.  The climb up past the Marbleyard to the Gunter Ridge trail is steep, but once you gain the ridge it’s most level or downhill.  The Glenmont horse trail is wide open and slightly uphill.
  • Trail Conditions – 3. The trail is in decent shape in most places.  It was very slick, steep and muddy climbing alongside the Marbleyard.  The Gunter Ridge trail was easy to follow, but very overgrown with tall grasses and brush.
  • Views– 2. There are plenty of obstructed views on the Gunter Ridge Trail, but nothing spectacular.
  • Streams/Waterfalls – 2.5.  The stream running along the Belfast Trail is small but lovely.
  • Wildlife – 2.  We saw a ton of fence lizards but not much else (unless you want to count the seventeen year locusts)
  • Ease to Navigate – 3.  There are a few turns and trails here are not as well marked as trails in the national park, but if you pay attention, finding your way should be easy.
  • Solitude – 3  You will likely share the Marbleyard with other hikers, but the rest of the loop does not seem heavily traveled.

Directions to trailhead:  From the Blue Ridge Parkway at mile 71, you will see a small road (FSR 35) that is on the western side of the road at a curve.  Take this road which leads past the Petites Gap AT parking area.  At 4.2 miles, you will see the parking area on the right (just after you start seeing more houses on the road).  Make sure you either park in the lot or make sure you park completely off the road or your vehicle may be towed.

Bear Church Rock – via Graves Mill

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Bear Church Rock is a 8.5 mile hike that leads to gorgeous, mountain views.  The hike passes alongside two rivers, waterfalls, and a PATC cabin. You can also reach this beautiful overlook from Skyline Drive (Bootens Gap).

Taking in the View From Bear Church Rock
Adam enjoys the view from Bear Church Rock. Below: The tall, straight trees along the Staunton River trail were very beautiful; Azalea blooming near the top of Jones Mountain; The last push to the rock almost killed Adam.

Beautiful, Tall Straight Trees on the Staunton River Trail Blooming Azalea Adam Almost Died

Adam Says…

Bear Church Rock is a hike that has it all – nice trail alongside a stream, a few small waterfalls, a visit to a PATC cabin, and a great view at the top.  The views are completely of mountains with rarely a sign of civilization.  I always feel like I am truly getting away when I don’t have to see houses or roads dotted across the landscape.  You can easily see Fork Mountain and Doubletop Mountain nearby, but past that ridge, you can also get glimpses of the ridge that makes up Skyline Drive.

The hike starts off on the Graves Mill Trail, which is a flat walk that runs along the Rapidan River.  At .5 miles, you reach a junction with the Staunton River Trail.  Take a left at the junction to follow the Staunton River Trail, which runs along the Staunton River.  Shortly after you join the trail, you will come across a beaver dam on the river and you’ll notice several stumps of trees that have been gnawed by beavers.  At 1.1 miles, you will see a small waterfall leading into a small pool off the trail that is worth a stop.  At 1.8 miles, you will see on the left side of the trail some piles of stone and on the right you’ll be able to see another small waterfall through the trees.  At 2.7 miles, you reach the junction with the Jones Mountain Trail.  Take a left on this trail.  The trail becomes very steep at this point and will remain so until you reach the top.  At 3.1 miles, you reach the junction with the McDaniel Hollow trail.  Take a left here to follow the Jones Mountain Trail.  At mile 3.4, you reach a junction that leads to the available-to-rent PATC cabin.  If you stay relatively straight on the trail, it leads to the PATC Jones Mountain Cabin.  We took this trail which starts off flat, but then descends rather steeply.  After visiting the cabin, return to reach the junction with the Jones Mountain Trail and head up the steep incline until you reach Bear Church Rock.  Continue back the way you came, but your return trip will be shorter if you have already visited the Jones Mountain Cabin.  The total trip should be 8.5 miles.

You could also approach this hike from Skyline Drive for a longer hike, following the Laurel Prong Trail to Cat Knob Trail to Jones Mountain Trail.  My guess is it would be about a 10 to 12-mile round-trip to approach it from that direction.

Start of the Staunton River Trail
Adam pauses to look at distances marked on the Staunton River trail sign. Below: Parking for this hike is at Graves Mill; The lovely Rapidan River; Trillium were still blooming along the trail, but were nearing the end of their peak.

Graves Mill Sign The Rapidan River Trillium

On our way up the Jones Mountain Trail, we ran into a few PATC volunteers that were working on maintaining the trail.  Some PATC members volunteer to help maintain the trails that run through Shenandoah National Park, the Appalachian Trail, and other regional trails.  One of the workers has been working on improving this trail for the last five years.  At the time that we saw them, they were working on building in some water bars through the trail that helps pull the water off the trail to prevent erosion.   They were digging drainage ditches, placing some dead black locust tree logs across the trail they had cut, refilling with dirt, and then mounding the dirt in a way that it was unnoticeable to hikers.  We learned that the black locust trees were great trail logs because they don’t rot.  We thanked them for helping to improve the trails and we plan on getting in touch with them to help them some weekend in the future.  We both feel that as much as we enjoy hiking, it would be nice to give back.

First Waterfall on Staunton River Trail
This was the first of many small waterfalls we saw along the Staunton River trail. Below: Another waterfall; There were many remnants of stone walls and stone structures in the woods along the trail; Adam stops to consult the map at the junction of the Staunton River and Jones Mountain trails.

Another Small Waterfall on the Staunton River Trail Old Stone Wall in Shenandoah Junction of Staunton River and Jones Mountain Trails

At one moment when we were hiking up the Jones Mountain Trail, I decided to take a break from the climb and sat on a log on the side of the trail.  As I was relaxing, a piece of the log broke off, causing me to hit myself in the head with one of my trekking poles.  I felt like I was in the Subway commercial of fat people breaking things.  Embarrassing, but funny.

This was our first time hiking this trail, but Christine and I both think this is one of the best trails in Shenandoah National Park.  If you can handle the distance and the steep climb, this should be on your “must” list.  For further reading about this area, check out Lost Trails and Forgotten People: The Story of Jones Mountain.  I think I would like to pick up a copy and learn more about this area, since it was such an amazing hike.

Christine Says…

Another weekend, another backpacking trip cancelled due to rainy weather – what can I say?  When you’re a fair-weather backpacker, lots of spring trips end up delayed.  We were pretty glad we postponed again, because the thunderstorms that passed through overnight on Saturday were pretty fierce and torrential.  I would not have enjoyed being in our tent during those winds and rains!  Fortunately, Sunday morning dawned dry, but foggy with a forecast of dissipating clouds followed by brilliant sunshine.  We decided to tackle the 8.5 mile route up Jones Mountain to Bear Church Rock.  It’s a hike we’ve been meaning to do, especially after seeing it covered by PATC – Charlottesville Chapter and Hiking Upward.

The hike vastly exceeded my already high expectations. I had the BEST time! Without a doubt, this hike has cracked my top-five list of hikes in Shenandoah National Park (along with Riprap, Mary’s Rock from Pinnacles, Rapidan Camp and the Rose River Loop).  This hike had it all – gorgeous river scenery, waterfalls, fantastic trail conditions, a rustic cabin, spectacular views and plenty of opportunities to spot wildlife.

Beaver Dam on the Staunton River
We saw this impressive beaver dam on the Staunton River. There were lots of gnawed trees (inset) around the water. Below: Showy Orchis is a common wildflower seen blooming along the trail; Everything was so lush and green; You may notice Adam’s pants tucked into his socks to avoid ticks. Ticks are out in force this year!

Wildflowers Along the Trail Beautiful Spring Trail Downhill Hike

We started out around 10:00 a.m. from the Graves Mill parking area.  The lot is small; with room for about 8-12 cars at most.  It was already mostly full when we arrived.  The hike starts off on the Graves Mill trail – a flat section of trail running parallel to the Rapidan River.  Within a half mile, the Graves Mill trail meets the Staunton River trail.  This trail is a gentle uphill grade, following within sight or earshot of the water.  One of the first interesting things we passed was a series of several beaver dams spanning the river.  I don’t know if they’re active dams or long abandoned.  We saw plenty of gnawed tree stumps, but no sign of beavers or any fresh activity.  A little further upstream, we passed the first of a series of small waterfalls.  All of the falls and cascades along the Staunton River are beautiful!  If you’re a photographer and like shooting long exposures on moving water, this river is a goldmine.  I’d love to return on an overcast day after there has been plenty of rain.  I think this trail would also be popular with people in search of the perfect summertime swimming hole.  There were so many deep, quiet pools between the faster moving cascades.

After about a mile and a half along the Staunton River trail, we reached the junction with the Jones Mountain trail.  Adam took a brief break at this point to consult the map. We quickly figured out that we were about to start climbing.  Overall, the path to Bear Church Rock requires about 2200 feet of elevation gain.

PATC Work Crew
PATC volunteers have been working on the trails in this area for over five years, spending 1000+ hours of their time.

After just a few minutes of walking, we heard voices and the sound of tools coming through the woods.  Shortly later, our paths crossed with a PATC trail crew hard at work installing water bars.  We learned from the crew that they’ve done over 1000 hours of work on this particular section of trail over the past five years.  No wonder the trail is in such magnificent shape.  Everyone who hikes in Shenandoah and enjoys the fantastic trail conditions owes a debt of gratitude to volunteer trail workers.  They do mind-boggling amounts of backbreaking labor to make the trails nice for everyone else.

After chatting with the trail crew for a few minutes, a couple came down the trail.  They mentioned that they had seen a bear with two tiny cubs just a few minutes earlier.  We were excited and hopeful that we might spot them too.  Unfortunately, we weren’t that lucky!

Eventually we reached a ‘Y’ in the trail, with one arm leading .3 of a mile down to the Jones Mountain cabin and the other arm leading a half mile up to Bear Church Rock.  We decided to visit the cabin first, and then enjoy lunch atop Bear Church.

The trail to the cabin led rather sharply downhill, first passing through an ancient, gnarled stand of mountain laurel.  The curly branches practically formed a tunnel over the trail.  All along the final descent to the cabin were stacks of firewood – also courtesy of PATC trail crews.  Apparently, there is a significant problem with cabin renter chopping down live trees near the cabin to use as firewood.  I find that SHOCKING!  What is wrong with people?  Who goes to a National Park… and chops down living trees (especially when deadfall is so abundant in the park)?

The Jones Mountain Cabin
The Jones Mountain cabin sits in a peaceful opening in the woods. Below: Christine walks through a tunnel of ancient mountain laurel on the path down to the cabin; Christine has new hiking shoes – Montrail Mountain Masochists (very comfy!); Christine enjoys the wilderness views from the rock.

Christine Hikes Through Old Mountain Laurel Love My New Montrails Christine On Bear Church Rock

After rounding a final bend, the roof of the cabin comes into view.  The Jones Mountain cabin is adorable – two stories with a big front porch.  We peeked in through an opening in the shutters and saw a big fireplace, a rustic wooden dining table and a sunny loft on the top level.  A privy and a spring are both located near the cabin.  What a great place to hike in and camp for a couple nights!

We didn’t stay long at the cabin because we were hungry for lunch and wanted to enjoy Bear Church Rock before any other hikers arrived.  The climb back up to the trail junction was pretty steep, but didn’t take too long.

The toughest climbing of the day came along the final push up to the rock.  After a few switchbacks, the trail went straight up the mountainside.  At the top, a little unmarked (but highly visible) path cuts through the vegetation onto a large rocky outcropping.  The trail continues past the little spur trail to the rocks, so don’t miss it!  If you continued along the trail, you’d eventually come to trails in the vicinity of Camp Hoover.

The view from Bear Church Rock is fantastic!  Instead of looking down into a valley full of roads, farms and small towns, you look down into wilderness.  You see nothing but trees and a line where the river cuts through the forest.  If you have a map, you can identify some of Shenandoah’s other peaks from this spot.  We hit this spot on a perfect spring day.  We had bluebird skies with only occasional puffy clouds.  The progression of spring was evident in the mountains – vibrant green climbing its way up toward the still barren mountain tops.  We enjoyed our lunch and relaxing in the sunshine.

Spectacular View from Bear Church Rock
Just some more beauty shots from atop Bear Church Rock.

Christine on Bear Church The Rock Continues Adam and Hiking Gear on Bear Church

The hike back down went quickly – with a descent so steep it was easier to run than to walk! We made the return trip to the car in about half the time it took us to climb up.  In the end, the entire hike took us about four hours, including stops at the cabin and half an hour for lunch.

Bear Church Rock is definitely worth doing!  What a beautiful day!

Trail Notes

  • Distance – 8.5 miles
  • Elevation Change – 2210 feet
  • Difficulty – 4.  The parts near the Rapidan and Staunton Rivers are very flat, but the uphill climbs are very steep.
  • Trail Conditions – 4. The trail is wide during much of the trail where you could even walk side-by-side with someone if you wanted.  The trails are well-maintained thanks to our PATC volunteers and it is not very rocky through most of the hike.
  • Views– 4. The view from Bear Church Rock is amazing.  It’s not a 360-degree view, but you can see mountains for miles and little sign of civilization.
  • Streams/Waterfalls – 4.5.  The rivers are nice to walk alongside.  You also have a beaver dam and a few small waterfalls on this trail.
  • Wildlife – 4.  We saw some snakes by the river and on the trail.  We saw deer by the Jones Mountain Cabin.  People coming down the trail when we were coming up had just seen a mama bear with two cubs.
  • Ease to Navigate – 4.  While the trail does have a few turns, it is well marked with concrete posts to help give you direction.
  • Solitude – 3.5.  We had the view to ourselves by going early in the day, but this is a fairly popular hike.

Directions to trailhead:  From Route 230 near Wolftown, VA turn on to Route 662.  Continue to follow the signs for 662.  In about 6 miles until 662 ends at a parking lot.  The trailhead is visible from the parking lot.

Byrd’s Nest #4 Loop

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This short 2.4 mile loop takes you along the Appalachian Trail, the Neighbor Mountain Trail and the Hull School fire road.  The highlight of the loop is a visit to the Byrd’s Nest Day Shelter.

Byrd's Nest
Byrd’s Nest #4 sits in a lovely opening off the Neighbor Mountain trail. Below: Parking is available at the Beahm’s Gap Overlook; the trail begins after crossing the railing; Blooming azaleas along the trail.

Parking at Beahms Gap Start of Hike Blooming Azaleas

Christine Says…

We were supposed to go backpacking, but when we heard terms like ‘flooding rains’, Nor’easter and ‘wash out’, we decided to delay the trip.  When Saturday morning dawned, it was sunny and warm and beautiful!  I made a trip into town, worked on a photography project in the arboretum, bought a bunch of veggies and strawberries (yay!) at the farmers’ market and got a haircut, figuring that the rain had to be on its way.  When I got home, it was still sunny and gorgeous with no sign of the coming deluge.  Adam suggested we hop in the car, go for a short hike and then have lunch in the park.  It sounded like a great idea to me, so off we went.

We decided on the short Byrd’s Nest #4 loop, starting from the Beahms Gap Overlook.  The trail started with a hop over the retaining rail at the overlook – a cement trail marker post will show the spot to cross the rail.  The trail goes slightly downhill along a short spur to the Appalachian Trail.  Follow the AT north until the junction with the Neighbor Mountain trail.  Take a right onto the Neighbor Mountain trail and follow it uphill until you reach a clearing and the Byrd’s Nest shelter. For the return trip, follow the grassy path in front of the shelter downhill.  The path quickly widens to the Hull School fire road.  After a few tenths of a mile, you’ll come back out on Skyline Drive.  Follow the drive south for about a tenth of a mile back to your car.

Adam Hiking Along the Rocky Appalachian Trail
Adam hikes along a rocky section of the Appalachian Trail.

Although there are no sweeping views or rocky outcroppings, this hike is a lovely leg-stretcher.  The Byrd’s Nest shelter is a perfect place to enjoy a picnic lunch.  We had planned to relax at the shelter for a while, but when we arrived we found it already occupied by a picnicking couple.  Not wanting to infringe on their space, we took a few photos and headed back on the return arm of the hike pretty quickly.

We decided to have lunch at the Big Meadows Wayside.  It was packed – more crowded than we’ve ever seen it!  They had some new selections on the menu, which was a pleasant surprise.  The menu has been pretty much the same for years!  I got a grilled chicken sandwich with roasted red peppers, provolone cheese and aioli.  It was surprisingly juicy and delicious.  You don’t expect amazing food from park concessionaires – but this was actually one of the best grilled chicken sandwiches I’ve ever eaten.  Go figure!

It was still beautiful and sunny when we left the park around 2:00 p.m. – but by 4:00 heavy thunderstorms had moved in and it rained pretty much non-stop the next 48 hours.  I was glad that we had decided to postpone our backpacking trip.

Adam Says…

I was originally thinking that we would just take a drive on Skyline Drive when I whisked Christine away.  But, I decided to bring our Shenandoah National Park Falcon Guide hiking book and had Christine thumb through to find this hike we hadn’t completed yet.  We had done the majority of this trail before on our Appalachian Trail hike from Elkwallow to Thornton Gap.  The last time we had been on this trail, we saw the post that showed this side trail, but we decided to avoid more hiking.  The Falcon Guide book actually mentioned another trail that should have looped back to the AT, but that trail no longer exists (at least the posts have been removed).

Another View of Byrd's Nest
A front view of Byrd’s Nest. Below: Adam walking along the Neighbor Mountain trail; A few dark clouds rolled over on the short section of road walking at the end of the hike.  They quickly passed and blue skies returned.

Adam Walking the Neighbor Mountain Trail Road Walk

The cabin is named for Senator Harry Byrd Sr., who donated four of these shelters for the national park (the other three are at Old Rag, between the Pinnacle and Meadow Spring Trail, and Hawksbill mountains).  His name also graces the Visitor’s Center near Big Meadows and he hiked Old Rag annually into his 70s.  It appears that the cabin up here must have had a few other buildings or other things nearby since you can see some nearby foundations.  I’m not sure if this area once served as someone’s home or if it was an overnight shelter with a spring and a privy.  It is listed as a day-use shelter only.

Once we descended from the shelter down the fire road, we both thought we saw a bear dash off into the woods.  We saw a black shape and a big crashing through the brush, so we are convinced it was a bear.

The cabin is definitely the highlight of the trail, but we were disappointed that others had taken it completely over to eat lunch.  So, we quickly got on our way to not interrupt them.  Overall, there are definitely more interesting trails in Shenandoah National Park.  But if you want a quick hike with a possible place to eat a packed lunch, this could be one for you.

Trail Notes

  • Distance – 2.4 miles
  • Elevation Change –850 feet
  • Difficulty – 2.  There is a substantial amount of uphill climbing, but the overall distance is short.
  • Trail Conditions – 5.  The trail is in excellent shape, like most of the AT through Shenandoah.
  • Views– 1.5.  There is a partially obscured view at the Byrd’s Nest Shelter.  It was probably much more panoramic and open when the shelter was originally built.
  • Streams/Waterfalls –0.  There are no streams or waterfalls, but you will pass a spring-fed water source.
  • Wildlife – 3.  We heard lots of birds, and *think* we saw a bear.
  • Ease to Navigate – 2. After leaving the AT and Neighbor Mountain trails, it was all guesswork.  Nothing was marked and the description of the trail in our Falcon Guide was inaccurate.
  • Solitude – 3. This is a fairly popular family hike.

Directions to trailhead:  Park at the Beahms Gap Overlook parking lot around mile 28.5 on Skyline Drive.  From the lot, you should see a cement post marking the start of the trail on the other side of the log barrier.

Appalachian Trail – Beagle Gap to Turk Gap

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The Appalachian Trail – Beagle Gap to Turk Gap is a nice 6.4 mile section that includes a short summit hike and a visit to a AT shelter in the southern district of Shenandoah National Park.

View Along the Ridge
A nice view along the ridge line. You can see the spring green creeping up the mountainsides. Below:  Flowering trees near the beginning of the hike at Beagle Gap; the Calf Mountain Shelter; Dogwood in bloom.

Beagle Gap Calf Mountain Shelter Dogwood

Adam Says…

With this section of the Appalachian Trail, we finished section-hiking the southern district of Shenandoah National Park.  Now that we are finished with both the central and southern districts, we will next start working on completing the northern district so that we can ultimately cover all 105 miles of the AT through SNP.  The southern district accounts for 45 miles of that total, so we are glad to have the longest section completed.  I think hiking all of those miles was best realized by me when we are driving back home.  It feels like it took forever to drive the distance (due to the 35 mph speed limit through the park), so knowing we walked the distance gives me a little pride.   Of course, it still amazes me that some AT thru-hikers will accomplish the entire AT through SNP in about 4 days where it has taken us 5-8 days of hiking just to cover one section.

Adam hikes up Calf Mountain
Adam hikes up Calf Mountain. Below: The Charlottesville chapter of Potomac Appalachian Trail Club (PATC) is working on a less steep re-route of the Appalachian Trail near Calf Mountain; The USGS marker on Calf Mountain’s summit; After descending Calf Mountain you will cross under powerlines.  They’re very loud and buzzy!

Reroute Calf Mountain Summit Powerlines

We did bring two cars to cover more ground.  We parked one car at Turk Gap at mile 94.2 on Skyline Drive.  We took the other car to Beagle Gap and began our hike northward from there.  From the parking lot, we went through the gap of the fence on the same side of the parking lot.  We started walking across the open field and up into the woods.  Once we got into the woods, the trail becomes quite steep as you make your way up Calf Mountain, where you gain about 500 feet of elevation in the first mile.  The woods are more open through this section, so you can take in a lot of the beauty around you if you need an excuse for a break.  The AT is being re-routed through this part, so you will see some posted signs, but stay on the white-blazed AT.  At mile 1.0, you will see a large cairn on the trail.  If you look nearby on the ground, you will see a USGS marker that marks the summit of Calf Mountain at 2974 feet.  The trail then begins to descend past this point.  At mile 1.6, you will see a blue-blazed side trail that leads to the Calf Mountain Shelter.  The sign says that the shelter is .3 miles away, but it is really just slightly over .2 mile away and the trail is relatively flat.  We always enjoy visiting the shelters along the way and reading the entries in the shelter log books to see who has been through recently.  Once you return back to the AT, continue northward.  At mile 2.5, we started to hear some buzzing in the air.  Within a few short steps, we came across some power lines that are cut through the mountains that were producing the unsettling sound.  At mile 2.7, you will come across the South Fork Moormans River Fire Road.  Cross the road and continue on the AT.  The trail descends to bring you down to Moormans River, which is more like a trickling stream than a river at this point.  Once you reach the stream, the trail then begins the uphill climb for most of the remainder of the trail. At mile 4.8, you will reach Skyline Drive and the Sawmill Run Overlook.  Cross Skyline Drive, continue to climb,  and at mile 6.4 you will reach the Turk Gap parking lot.

When reading the log book at the Calf Mountain shelter, it appears there were a few writings about a zombie apocalypse happening on the trail and some people were getting eaten and others were trying to stay ahead of it.  The only mention of this I could find online was through Tarzan’s AT journal.    I just picture a group of thru-hikers with zombie makeup shuffling through the forest and tagging others to spread the zombie disease.  But from watching The Walking Dead, I don’t picture anyone trying to set any speed records as a zombie.  Christine and I have toyed with doing a haunted hike on Halloween before, so this gives us some ideas.

Calf Mountain Journal
The journal at Calf Mountain shelter was full of fascinating and entertaining entries. Below: Adam reading at the shelter; Zombies on the Appalachian Trail; Climbing uphill

Adam Reading Zombies Uphill Climb

I did struggle a bit with this hike.  The last two weeks I had a very severe sinus infection.  Topping that off with a high-pollen allergy season just made this tough for me.  My lungs haven’t fully healed from all the coughing that I was doing, so walking uphill for most of this hike was taxing.  By the last mile of this hike, I was just ready to be done.

Christine Says…

This section of trail was quite a bit nicer than I expected.  On the map, it basically looked like a series of rolling hills on a trail through the woods – no panoramic views or remarkable features.  But once we got out there, we did find a couple nice views after all. The shelter visit was fun, mostly because the journal entries were more entertaining than usual.  Trees and wildflowers were blooming abundantly, so there was plenty of color along the way.  I also enjoyed the bluebird skies and the pleasant breeze.

The trail began with the climb up to the summit of Calf Mountain.  It’s a summit without a view. It’s marked by a USGS marker and a conical pile of rocks.  The pile reminded me a little of the giant cairns that mark the summits in Acadia National Park.  Adam always poses on those Maine summits, so I asked him to do the same on Calf Mountain.  Unfortunately, he made a really goofy face in the photo, so I won’t be sharing it on the blog.

Green Trail
The understory turned green early in the spring of 2012. Below: Ferns uncurling; Budding azaleas; Wildflowers

Fern Azalea Wildflowers

Hiking down from the Calf Mountain summit, I really noticed how GREEN everything is becoming.  Spring hit early and fast this year.  Even though the mature hardwoods had not leafed out when we did this hike, much of the understory was already green – ferns were uncurling, dogwoods and redbuds were in full bloom and we saw wild geraniums and dwarf irises. On this section of trail, we passed several enormous trees with lots of large, low-hanging branches.  They were just the kind of tree I would have climbed as a kid.  I wish I knew what kind they were, but they didn’t have leaves yet and I’m not good at tree identification without leaves.

Our next stop was the Calf Mountain shelter.  I ate candy and cheese. Adam almost broke my camera by getting his foot caught in the neck strap as it was sitting on the picnic table. (Aaaaaah!) I read the journal.  Apparently, there are zombies afoot on the Appalachian Trail this spring – many hikers are now undead, and it sounds wise to stay on the move.  (kidding, kidding)  There was also a fascinating entry from a man who has completed many thru-hikes (and not just the Appalachian Trail).  His entry was really uplifting and motivating.  I can’t believe one of his thru-hike attempts ended after getting thrown off the AT by a tornado in Maine  — yes, A TORNADO in MAINE.  That doesn’t happen very often!

Flowering Tree
There were plenty of flowering trees along the hike. I think we saw dogwoods, redbuds, cherry and apple. Below: Dwarf iris.

Dwarf Iris

The second half of the hike was mostly uphill.  It was never steep uphill, but we still gained several hundred feet in a pretty short distance.  I felt really bad for Adam.  He was struggling with the uphill after recovering from a chest/head cold.  At one point, I heard him cursing and muttering behind me that he was ‘*%$# tired of *%$# uphill.’  I always feel a strange sense of guilt when people I’m hiking with are having a hard time.  I almost feel like the hills are my fault.  LOL I want to carry more, encourage them to take more breaks, or offer to make a run for the car and come back to get them at an earlier stop point.  But Adam was tough, and pushed through the pain.

The nicest views of the hike came on the section of trail between Jarman Gap and Turk Gap.  There were several open views along the ridge.  It was beautiful to see the spring green creeping up the mountainside!

It feels good to be done with two sections of the AT through Shenandoah.  Now we have less than twenty miles to go.  Hopefully we’ll be able to knock those miles out in the next few weeks.

Trail Notes

  • Distance – 6.4 miles, including .4 miles to visit the Calf Mountain Shelter
  • Elevation Change – 1300 feet
  • Difficulty – 2.5.  While most of the trail is uphill, the grade is typically not very steep except for the section up Calf Mountain.
  • Trail Conditions – 4. The trail was in great shape and well-traveled.  There were not many rocky sections along this trail.
  • Views – 2.  There were a few views near the power lines, but most of the views along this section are obstructed.
  • Streams/Waterfalls – 2.  You do go along the south fork of Moormans River at one point, but it is largely a trickle at this point.  There are a few springs along the way, but the most reliable source is probably near Calf Mountain Shelter.
  • Wildlife – 3.  We did see several deer along the trails and we could hear lots of woodpeckers through the trees.
  • Ease to Navigate –4. Stay on the white-blazed AT and you should be fine.
  • Solitude – 3. You will find more people on the way to Calf Mountain, but not many people after that.

Directions to trailhead: At mile 99.5, you will come to a large parking area.  Look for the gap in the fence on the same side of the road and head up the Appalachian Trail.

Edith J. Carrier Arboretum

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The Edith J. Carrier Arboretum is a 125-acre botanical preserve located within the city limits of Harrisonburg on the campus of James Madison University.  There are between three and four miles of interconnecting trails through the arboretum.  (Maps) Spring is a fabulous time to visit this special spot and witness flowers opening and the forest coming back to life again!

Arboretum Pond
Spring is a gorgeous time of year to visit the Edith J. Carrier Arboretum. Below: The paths in the arboretum are all well-maintained; Adam hunts down a geocache; Enjoying the labyrinth.

Pathway in the Arboretum Finding a Geocache Enjoying the Labyrinth

Christine Says…

What do you do on a morning you want to get out into nature, but you don’t have time for a longer hike in the national forest or Shenandoah National Park?  If you’re anywhere near Harrisonburg… you go to the Arboretum.  It’s a beautiful, lush, wooded spot in the middle of Harrisonburg.  Trails covered with wood chips or gravel wind their way through the forest.  There are two ponds where you can spot ducks — usually mallards, but sometimes wood ducks if you’re lucky.  Squirrels crunch through the understory, woodchucks duck into holes when they hear approaching footsteps and birds sing in the trees overhead.  There are even a few hawks that call the Arboretum home, so be on the lookout for them!

Beyond the wildlife, the Arboretum has abundant plant life – both wild natives and cultivated species.  In the spring, flowering trees – redbuds, dogwoods and magnolias – burst with color.  One section of the trail passes through an area populated by hundreds of daffodils.  Bleeding hearts bloom in quiet corners. Trillium, Virginia bluebells, snowdrops, hellebore and even some yellow lady slippers can be found along the paths. There is always something new and different blooming, so it’s a place we visit time and time again.

Abundant Daffodils
Daffodils are abundant and impressive at their peak! Below: Adam checks out the arboretum map.

Map

On this particular morning, Adam and I hiked the path along the perimeter of the arboretum.  We walked through the daffodils, passed the quiet, smaller pond near the greenhouse and then climbed into the natural wooded section.  On the return half of the walk, we stopped at the labyrinth and spent a little time walking the maze.  All in all, we walked about two miles.  We could have walked more if we had taken all of the side paths and connectors, but on this morning, two miles was enough.  It was a beautiful morning!

Take a moment to stop by the arboretum’s Flickr site to view hundreds of photos from their grounds!

Adam Says…

This should probably be listed as a “hike” with the quotation marks since it is more of a walk through a nice arboretum.  We do like to cover hikes for all different types of abilities and this should be one that most people can do.  There is even a wheelchair-access ramp down to the pond, so anyone can enjoy this.   You will likely see several families here on pretty days by the lake or perhaps see some wedding or family photos taking place nearby.  This is a place to stroll through and enjoy the scenery.

Turtles Sunning
Turtles can usually be spotted basking in the sun. Below: A mallard swims in the pond.

Mallard

One thing that is exceptional here is all the beautiful flowers.  At this time of year, everywhere you turn your head you’ll be greeted with vibrant colors from the blooming trees and flowers.  You can read more about the history and flora on their website.  There are probably a few key highlights of the arboretum.  The most prominent is the pond.  You will most likely see mallards floating on top and a coin-operated machine to purchase feed for the ducks.  At certain times of the year, there is also a poet-tree where the Arboretum hangs a wicker basket.  People are invited to write a poem and leave it there for others to read.  Another highlight is the rock labyrinth that is located off a trail.  While it is not a labyrinth created to the level that you may have seen in The Shining, it is a path made with rocks in the ground that produces a zen-like rock garden feel.

We started from the northern parking lot and made the large loop around the perimeter of the park, starting near the picnic pavilion.  The end of the perimeter loop brought us by the education center, to the lake, and back to the parking lot.  We then walked around the upper terrace Caroline Sinclair Memorial Garden.  With everything blooming typically in April-June this is a great place to visit in the spring!

Bridge
Adam enjoys a view of the pond from the bridge.

You can download a map of the Arboretum here.

If you are interested in geocaching, there are also several geocaches here in the Arboretum.  This might be another thing to enjoy as a family here.

Trail Notes

  • Distance – 1.7 miles for the long path around, but it can vary based on how far you want to explore the side trails inside.
  • Elevation Change – Negligible
  • Difficulty – 1.  These gentle paths can be walked by nearly anyone.  There is even an accessible path around the main pond.
  • Trail Conditions – 5.  The trails are in great shape – covered with gravel or wood chips
  • Views – 0.  This is a wooded walk, so there are no views.
  • Streams/Waterfalls –3.  There are two ponds, a small man-made waterfall and a pretty stream passing through.
  • Wildlife – 3.  Many bird species and small mammals.  Occasionally deer are spotted.
  • Ease to Navigate – 5. All the paths interconnect and lead back to the center hub.
  • Solitude – 0. This arboretum is very popular!

Directions to trailhead:  The best way to get directions is using the website google directions here.

Furnace Mountain

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This 4.7 mile hike is a steady climb that gives you views of the south and west on the climb up and views of the north and east from the summit.

Christine on the Furnace Mountain Summit
The summit of Furnace Mountain has nice views of Massanutten and of Shenandoah National Park, looking back toward Skyline Drive.

Adam Says…

It is amazing to me to think about how blessed we are to have such great hiking in Virginia.  While we have been slowly trying to accomplish the Appalachian Trail through Shenandoah National Park, but we also like to mix in some other hikes.  Christine stumbled across a mention of this hike, so we decided to try it out.  We were pleasantly surprised by the nice views you get on this hike.  Keep in mind, there is another Furnace Mountain in Loudoun County.  There doesn’t seem to be a lot of originality in naming mountains sometimes.  This Furnace Mountain is named for the Mount Vernon Furnace that once stood at the bottom of the mountain for the reduction of iron ore.

Crossing Madison Run
Adam rock-hops across Madison Run. Below:  Adam adding some excitement to an otherwise boring fire road; The official start of the Furnace Mountain Trail.

Adam Leaping on the Fire Road Start of the Furnace Mountain Trail

We parked our car at the beginning of the fire road and made our way to the boundary of Shenandoah National Park.  As soon as we entered the park boundary, you will see a signpost to the right that denotes the start of the trail.  You will quickly come up to a stream crossing of Madison Run that you can rock-hop across.  These rocks are sturdy, but can be slick in some spots, so be careful.  After crossing Madison Run, the trail turns right and parallels the stream for a short distance.  Then, the trail begins climbing up the mountain.  There is a constant climb uphill for the entire hike.  Around 1.6 miles, the trail comes up to a large talus slope of large boulders which provides an open view of the valley.  The trail continues climbing and at 1.9 miles, you reach a post and an intersection with the Furnace Mountain Summit Trail.  Take this trail, which continues to climb up.  At 2.3 miles, you will reach a campsite at the summit.  Less than .1 miles is the rock outcropping which gives you the best views on the trail.  Return the way you came to make it back to your vehicle.  This time, you’re going all the way downhill.

Christine on Talus Slope
Christine hikes on the trail across the talus slope. Below: Adam takes in the view of the valley.

Adam on Talus

Madison Run is not named for James Madison, but rather from John Madison, the first Court Clerk of Augusta County.  John Madison’s cousin was the father of James Madison, the 4th US President.  Near this location stood Madison Hall Estate.

We had debated about bringing Wookie on this trip.  He would have loved most of the hike, but would have hated crossing Madison Run.  He really wants to avoid water on the trail, so I know I would have had to carry him with his claws digging in to me.  He just doesn’t like getting his precious feet wet for some reason.

Hiking this trail in the winter gives you views throughout a good portion of the hike.  When the leaves come out, you will have more obstructed views except from the talus slope and the rock outcropping at the summit.  We were excited at how great the views were from the summit.  Even though this mountain’s summit is only at 2657 feet in elevation, it provides some great vistas of the mountains around.  If you’re looking for a manageable hike off the beaten path with good views, this is one to try!

Christine Says…

Adam and I had Friday off work, so we decided to hit the trail for a morning hike.  We thought about doing some more of the Appalachian Trail through Shenandoah, but I wasn’t in the mood to drive separately for our car shuttle.  I also didn’t want to drive too far for our hike, so I started researching trails close to our home. We’ve done so many of them already that it’s getting increasingly difficult to find anything nearby.  Luckily, I happened to stumble across a route up Furnace Mountain with a trailhead located about fifteen minutes from our house.  I had been aware of Furnace Mountain before this, but most write-ups I’ve seen cover it as a 13+ mile loop hike (with 3000+ feet of elevation gain) paired with Austin Mountain.  I can hike 13+ miles as a day hike, but I usually don’t enjoy it.  My ideal length for a day hike is still 8-10 miles.

Hiking Along
You can see the valley below through the trees for much of the hike up. Below: An illegal fire pit at a backcountry campsite; The rocky outcropping at the summit; A view of Massanutten Mountain

Illegal Fire Pit Summit Rock View of Massanutten

Our trip up Furnace Mountain started off cloudy, and while the clouds thinned out somewhat during the course of the morning, it stayed mostly overcast.  That was a bit of a shame, because the views all along the trail are really nice.  I’m sure some of the views will be obscured once the trees have leaves again, but for the time being, it was great to see views of the Shenandoah Valley along the climb up.

The trail was extremely rocky most of the way, and even crossed a neat talus slope.  I imagine that this mountain was once towering and majestic, but over the ages, the rocky summit crumbled and rolled down the lower slopes.  The climb uphill was steady, but not difficult.  The most challenging part was the footing – lots of football-sized, unevenly seated rocks.

The Furnace Mountain summit trail is a half mile dog leg off the main trail.  Along this segment, we passed a campsite with a well-used fire ring.  Since Shenandoah does not allow open fires in the backcountry, the fire ring really shouldn’t have been there.  I suppose that the park just doesn’t have enough rangers to police illegal fires.

Shortly after the campsite, the trail took a short downhill to a rocky outcropping overlooking the park and the Shenandoah Valley.  We could see Massanutten mountain in one direction and a distant snip of Skyline Drive in the opposite direction.  In early March, everything is still barren and brown.  The dull color paired with the clouds took a little of the luster off the overlook, but it was still very nice.  I’d like to see it again in late spring, summer or fall!

Enjoying the Summit
Christine enjoys the summit.  Below: Adam on the rocking outcropping.  As you can see the rock is very rugged and jumbled.

Adam on the Summit Adam on the Summit 2

After hanging out a short while, we headed back down the trail.  We made it back to our car in less than half time time it took us to climb up.  We practically jogged the whole way down!  On our way home, I had really been looking forward to stopping at the Elkton McDonald’s for a Shamrock Shake.  We got there… shakes were on the menu… but the stupid machine was out of order.  I was robbed!

Trail Notes

  • Distance – 4.7 miles
  • Elevation Change – about 1300 feet
  • Difficulty – 3.  The uphill isn’t too strenuous, but there isn’t much break from the climbing.
  • Trail Conditions – 3.  We were surprised at how well this trail seemed to be maintained.  The path is a little more open, but does have some rocky sections.  The danger would be in going down, since you can pick up speed and some of the rocks may be loose.
  • Views – 4.  The views are quite nice, but not 360 degree views.
  • Streams/Waterfalls –2.  The trail does go along Madison Run for a short distance.
  • Wildlife – 1.  We didn’t really see anything on this trail.
  • Ease to Navigate – 4. As long as you cross the stream at the right point and then make the turn on the Summit Trail, you should be fine.
  • Solitude – 3.5. Typically only popular with the locals, but you may see a few people on the trail.

Directions to trailhead:  From Elkton, VA follow 340 South. You will see SR 659 on the left.  Follow that until it intersects with Browns Gap Road/SR 663.  Take a left and follow the road until it becomes a gravel fire road.  Park on the road. Continue on the fire road for about .2 miles until you enter the park boundary.  The trail marker on the concrete post will be on your right.

Appalachian Trail: MM89 to Turk Gap

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This 6.1 mile segment along the Appalachian Trail was relatively short and easy – a perfect first hike after a long break from the woods.  Although there aren’t any views or noteworthy stops along this section of trail, it’s a nice walk.

Walking Under the Pines
Wookie and Adam make their way along the trail. We saw quite a few people along the segment of AT that makes up the Rip Rap circuit.

Christine Says…

Hooray – our first ‘real’ hike since Thanksgiving Day. We decided to knock off another little section of the Appalachian Trail in Shenandoah National Park.  It was a fun hike, but an uneventful one.

For some reason, Adam wanted to hike southbound even though I pointed out that it was a lot more uphill.  He didn’t think the elevation profile looked substantially different in either direction, but he was wrong (as he’ll admit in his write-up).  He told me I can choose the direction on our next hike.  🙂

Honestly, it really didn’t matter one way or another to me.  The hiking wasn’t steep or challenging by any stretch of the imagination.  Even though the hike was mostly uphill, it was gentle uphill.

Wookie and Adam Climb Uphill
Wookie and Adam climb uphill. Below:  Wookie is always very eager to get started; Adam checks out trail mileage at the junction of the AT and the Riprap trail.

Wookie Waiting to Start  Riprap Junction

There really weren’t any views or distinct stops along this section of trail, but it was still good to be out and about.  I will say, this section of trail is GORGEOUS in late spring when mountain laurel is in bloom.  When we hiked Riprap a couple years ago, the section of AT joining the Rip Rap trail and Wildcat Ridge trail was abundantly in bloom.  It was like a tunnel of flowers.  So, if you want something to see – hike this trail section in May/June!

Oddly, we didn’t see (or even hear) any wildlife the entire hike.  Usually we see a deer or two, or at least hear a few birds singing in the trees.  This hike was practically silent.  The closest we came to wildlife was a ‘problem bear’ sign near the Wildcat Ridge trail junction.

All in all, this was a pleasant outing with nothing special to report.  Hopefully, we’ll be hitting the trails a bit more frequently as spring approaches.

Adam Says…

Well, it has been a while since we’ve been out on the trail.  Actually, this has been the longest gap since we started this blog.  It was great to get back on the trails again.  We decided to continue working on covering the Appalachian Trail through Shenandoah National Park.  We bought a second park pass last year, so we could be able to cover this with some shuttles.

Christine and I had talked about how we were going to cover the trail.  We had some differing opinions on whether to do this northbound or southbound.  I wanted to do the southbound way because I would prefer to not have an uphill climb at the end of the trail.  However, going southbound ended up being uphill most of the way until the very end.

Crossing the Drive
There was one road crossing on this section of trail. Below: Problem bears!

Problem Bear Sign

The white-blazed Appalachian Trail starts off uphill going about .7 miles and covering 300 feet of elevation until you reach the junction with the Riprap Trail.  Stay on the AT and the trail does go back downhill for the next .5 mile until you reach the nearby Riprap parking lot.  The trail continues a steady incline over the next few miles.  If you hike during the winter you will have some obstructed views of the rocky ledge of Calvary Rocks to the east, but there aren’t any good overlooks on the trail.  The trail then meets up with the Wildcat Ridge Trail at mile 4.2.  Continue on the AT for a short incline.  You will cross Skyline Drive around mile 4.4. The trail finally levels off and eventually leads downhill until you reach your second car at mile 6.1.

Despite it being a little break since we had been hiking, we still felt like we were in decent enough shape to handle the hiking without much problem.  We were surprised to run into several groups of people along this trail, but I think it is largely due to the access to the nearby Riprap and Wildcat Ridge Trails we have covered in the past.  That set of trails are some of the best hiking in the southern section of Shenandoah National Park.

wookieWookie Says…

It’s been a while since I’ve been hiking, too!  What you might not know is that I had surgery shortly after my last hike.  While I’m fit and trim for a pug, my soft palette had become thicker and longer in my middle years.  Any time I became excited or exerted myself, I would faint.  I don’t remember much – I would be happy and spinning around, then I would see stars and find myself lying on the ground wondering what the heck happened.  My masters were very frightened for me and took me right into the vet.  After a simple surgery and a month of recovery, I’m as good as new!

This was a fun hike for me!  I kept up pretty easily and even met several intimidating dogs along the way.  I think they were friendly, but you can’t be too safe around strangers, so I mostly hid behind Christine.  As a treat for doing so well on the hike, I got to eat two chicken nuggets when I got home!

Trail Notes

  • Distance – 6.1 miles
  • Elevation Change – about 850 feet
  • Difficulty – 2.5. The hike was fairly easy.  If you would like less uphill walking, follow the trail northbound instead.
  • Trail Conditions – 4.  The trail was in great shape after our mild winter.
  • Views – 0.  Nothing to see here.
  • Streams/Waterfalls – 0. None
  • Wildlife – 0.  We barely even heard the chirp of a bird along this hike.  We did see a ‘problem bears’ sign near Rip Rap, but no sign of them.
  • Ease to Navigate – 4.5. Just follow the white blazes and sign posts.  The trail is very direct.  When crossing parking lots and the Skyline Drive, keep your eyes peeled for cement trail markers to continue your hike.
  • Solitude – 2.  This hike passes along a substantial section of trail used as part of the Rip Rap circuit, so expect to see plenty of people.

Directions to trailhead: Park one vehicle along the side of the road at MM89 on Skyline Drive.  You will see the AT crossing.  Park a second car at the Turk Gap parking area (This is where the Turk Mountain hike begins)

Hone Quarry Ridge

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This five mile hike has a fair amount of climbing, one nice view and lots of solitude.

Adam Enjoys the View from Abbie Point
Adam enjoys the view from Abbie Point. Below: The trailhead for this hike is along Hone Quarry Road; Colorful foliage, A campsite near the ridgeline.

Hone Trailhead Colorful Woods Campsite

Christine Says…

Last weekend, we had a perfect fall day – probably one of the last ones of the 2011 season – bluebird skies, temperatures in the sixties and glorious fall color.  We had obligations in Harrisonburg on Sunday morning, so we decided to choose a hike close to town so we wouldn’t miss out on such a nice hiking day.  We did some research and decided on the Hone Quarry Ridge Trail.  Its five mile length and close proximity to town made it perfect for a quickie hike squeezed into a busy day.

The hike was actually tougher than I expected!  The climb went uphill without many switchbacks which was a small part of the challenge, but most of the difficulty came from the tricky footing.  Large sections of the trail were covered with loose, pointy, ankle-turning rocks covered with a deep layer of dry autumn leaves.  I was so glad to have my trekking poles.  I am sure they saved me from turning my ankles multiple times.

The woods were so colorful – reds, oranges, golds mixed in with occasional evergreens.  On the climb up, we caught glimpses of views through the thinning trees.  We passed a few established backcountry campsites and enjoyed one gorgeous open view from Abbie Point.

Yellow Blazes
Yellow blazes were few and far between. Below: Adam makes his way up the trail; A couple of the signs we spotted along the way. There were several trail junctions that were unsigned.

Hiking Uphill Trail Junction Near Start Trail Sign on Summit

Hiking in George Washington National Forest can be a real adventure.  Some popular trails like Big Schloss and Kennedy Peak are as navigable and well-maintained as anything in Shenandoah National Park.  While other trails, like Hone Quarry Ridge, have very little foot traffic.  Not much attention goes into maintaining these trails.  The double yellow blazes were spaced pretty far apart.  Trail junctions were often unmarked, leaving us to consult a map and compass to decide our direction.  The signs that were standing were in relatively poor condition, slowly rotting into the woods.  Don’t let this deter you from trying the trail, just be prepared to double-check your navigation.

After enjoying the view from Abbie Point, the remainder of the hike was mostly downhill (with the exception of a few short uphills), along rocky and occasionally narrow trail.  We moved pretty quickly, because we were hungry and had exciting late lunch plans.  If you’re ever in Harrisonburg, don’t miss trying Jack Brown’s Beer & Burger Joint.  They have the best burgers made with American Kobe/Wagyu beef and the fries are always hot and perfectly cooked.  They always have plain burgers and one specialty burger on the menu.  I got a cheeseburger and a Crispin Hard Cider.  We sat on the heated outdoor patio and enjoyed our decadent lunch.

It was another great hike, with one downside.  I got the largest, most painful blister I’ve ever had in my life.  I really don’t know how it happened.  My boots were the same. My socks were the same.  I’m pretty sure I laced up the same.  I made it through the hike, but the half dollar sized blister on my left heel has been monstrously painful all week. It was so bad, that I ended up at the doctor’s office on Wednesday to make sure it wasn’t infected.  I could hardly walk and I couldn’t wear shoes.  We were supposed to hike with my parents the weekend before Halloween, but I still wasn’t ready to wear boots again.  It’s finally starting to feel better a week later.

Adam Says…

As Christine mentioned, this is a hike that I’m glad we have a few modern-day conveniences for hiking since leaves were covering most of the trail.  My GPS was handy to make sure we were going the right direction and our trekking poles helped to test the ground out and give some extra support with each step.

Rocky Trail
An example of the rocky trail conditions.

The trail started off shortly after the the Hone Quarry campground.  After crossing the spillway, we parked our car on the right where there is space for about 3 cars.  The trail starts off across the road and you should see a hiking trail marker on a fire road that shortly leads to a wider off-road parking spot.  You’ll see the trail marker go over a mound to the left and up the hill to start the hike.  In .1 mile, you’ll arrive at an intersection.  The left heads towards the Heartbreak trail and the right heads to the Big Hollow Trail.  Follow the trail to the right.  The trail begins to ascend going up a wider trail that follows a stream along the way.  At .8 miles, the trail will hit a switchback and start a steeper ascent up the mountain.  At the 1.1 mile mark, the trail will cross a fire road, but keep going straight.  At 1.4 miles, the trail rejoins the same abandoned fire road you joined (you’ll see a small firepit to your left).

Take a right here to join the wider fire road.  The trail is quite steep at this point as you’re heading straight up the mountain with few breaks in the uphill climb.  At 2.1 miles, you will reach the intersection with the Hone Quarry Mountain trail.  Take a left on this trail and you will see another firepit immediately on your left.  The trail descends into a small saddle and then begins a steep hike up to a rocky overlook on your right at 2.7 miles.  This is the best point for views on the entire hike.

The trail from this point is mostly downhill, but quite overgrown.  Much of the trail feels like an animal path through the thick vegetation around.  Keep your eye out for the yellow-blazed trail markers.  At about the 4.0 mile marker you reach another firepit/campsite area and the trail seems like it splits again (There was a log covering the path straight, so I’m not sure if the trail continues at this point or everything goes to the left).  Take a sharp left here (this is now the Heartbreak trail).  The trail descends rather quickly through the forest, often through loose rocks, so be careful about your footing!  The Heartbreak trail was the most difficult to navigate.  The blazes were sparse, so we had to keep hoping we were still on the trail, since leaves covered anything that could be called a path below our feet.  Eventually the blazes led us closely to the campground area and we crossed the stream and made our way back to the intersection around 5.0 miles.  We continued straight and made our way back to the car around 5.1 miles.

Mennonite Picnic
There was a large group of Mennonites picnicking at Hone Quarry. They’re a common site in the Shenandoah Valley. If you hike anywhere west of the city (towards Dayton or Ottobine) on Sunday, you’ll see many families out in buggies and on bikes.  Below: A few more shots.

Parked Buggies Horse Typical Sunday Scene

I joked with Christine that the Heartbreak trail was aptly named, since I can imagine lots of couples arguing about if they were still on the hiking trail and then breaking up after the hike was over.  After we got back to the car, we came across a bunch of Mennonite families that were enjoying a potluck picnic.  Several of the families were heading off to another hiking trail.  The simpler life does make me think of how families may have done this type of thing often in the past.  Seeing people hiking in suits and dresses reminds me of old pictures that I have seen of people hiking many of the national parks when they were first being established.  Today we have trekking poles, wicking shirts, hiking pants that unzip to become shorts, GPS systems, camelbaks, etc.

If you are interested in geocaching, there are a few available on this trail.

  • Gnome Watch – a fun clue that leads you to the nearby cache.
  • Hone Quarry – a standard cache not far from the trail.
  • Cache Advance – a standard cache near the picnic area.  Not on the hike, but hard to resist since you pass near it on the drive.

While I think this hike was enjoyable, I was expecting more chances to catch some views.  You really only get views from the one rocky outcropping.  Everything else is obstructed.

Trail Notes

  • Distance – 5 miles
  • Elevation Change – 1480 feet.
  • Difficulty – 3.  The climbing on this hike is actually pretty steep, both uphill and downhill.
  • Trail Conditions – 1.5.  Like many less known trails in the National Forest, the Hone Quarry Ridge Trail is minimally maintained.  The trail is extremely rocky, and under a deep layer of fallen autumn leaves it can be downright perilous.
  • Views –3.  One nice, open view and some nice peeks through the trees along the way.
  • Streams/Waterfalls – 2.  The nearly dry stream along this trail has the potential of being quite prettier when there is more rain.
  • Wildlife – 1.  We didn’t see anything.
  • Ease to Navigate – 1.5.  The trail is minimally blazed and signs are far and few between.  We recommend bringing a map and a compass.  There are several trail intersections where you might go wrong.
  • Solitude – 4.  Hone Quarry is a popular camping and picnic area, but you probably won’t see many people on this hike.  On a gorgeous Sunday, at the peak of fall, we saw only three people on the trail.

Directions to trailhead: From 33, head south on SR 613/Clover Hill Road.  After passing Paul State Forest, the road comes to an intersection.   Stay straight and follow the signs to 257/Briery Branch Road.  257 eventually enters into George Washington National Forest.  Take the first right on to Hone Quarry Road.  Pass by the picnic area and then a small spillway over a stream.  You will see a parking area shortly after on the right and the hiking trail is on the opposite side of the road.

Dobie Mountain

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This 6.2 mile hike includes an overlook, a great AT overnight hut, and plane wreckage.

Glass Hollow Overlook
Taking in the view from the Glass Hollow Overlook.  It was really hazy and we were facing the sun, so the photos aren’t great.  But, it was still really colorful and pretty.  Below:  Adam takes the turn onto the Appalachian Trail; The Paul C. Wolfe Shelter; Adam walks along the Albright Trail.

Trail Junction Paul C. Wolfe Shelter Albright Trail

Adam Says…

Today was our 14th wedding anniversary, so we decided to take the day off of work and go for a nice hike together.   It is a good sign that it doesn’t seem like 14 years and that time has flown.  I’ve seen a card that said on the outside “Thank you for five wonderful years of marriage” and on the inside it said “Happy 25th Anniversary”.  We’ve had some great years together.  It was wonderful to pick a beautiful fall day to experience together.

While Humpback Rocks is the more popular hike that departs from this spot, we thought it would be a good idea to talk about this other hike that takes off from the Humpback Rock parking lot.  So, if you’re interested in hiking but not tons of people, this may be an option for you. The views are better from Humpback Rock, but you do get some benefits on this hike also.

After parking in the lot, you will see a picnic table adjacent to the first parking spot.  There are two trails that take off from this spot.  Take the blue-blazed trail to the right of the picnic table that descends into the woods (you’ll return from the loop by the Albright Loop Trail on the left).   The trail descends gradually and at .25 miles, you reach an intersection with the Appalachian Trail.  Take a left on the white-blazed AT heading north.  The trail at this point is relatively flat or downhill.  At mile 1.1, you reach an intersection with a small blue-blazed trail that veers off to the right pointing to the Glass Hollow Overlook.  The trail to the overlook is just about .2 mile and is worth the walk.  At the overlook, there is a backcountry campsite for those that would like to camp and take in the views of the sunrise from the overlook.  Go back on the spur trail the way you came and join the AT again, taking a right and continuing north on the trail taking your mileage to 1.3 miles.   At mile 1.6 and 1.7, you come across intersections with the Albright Loop trail.  Just continue on the Appalachian Trail.

Inside the Shelter
Adam checks out the shelter log in the Paul C. Wolfe shelter. Below: Past campers debate (in graffiti) the philosophy of Christopher McCandless from ‘Into the Wild’; We found a name we knew in the shelter log; On the hike back up from the shelter, we got an open view of Bears Den Mountain in Shenandoah National Park.  You can’t tell in this photo, but there are radio towers atop the mountain in the distance.

Quote - Into the Wild  Log Book Looking Toward Shenandoah

The trail begins to descend for the next 1.3 miles through a long series of switchbacks.  At mile 3.0, we rock-hopped across Mill Creek and reached the Paul C. Wolfe Shelter.  We took some time to rest here before we returned the way we came on the Appalachian Trail.  We climbed back up the Appalachian Trail from the shelter heading south this time and back up the switchbacks we had just experienced.  We were both glad that these took off some of the difficulty of the elevation climb.  At mile 4.2, we reached the first junction with the blue-blazed Albright Loop Trail.  Take a right here and you will follow this trail 2 miles back to the parking lot.  The hike on the Albright Loop trail starts off very manageable, but ends up being the most difficult part of the hike since there is quite an ascent up through some switchbacks.

On the return on the Albright Loop Trail, immediately after the second switchback, look up the hillside to see the wreckage of a Beechcraft Bonanza plane.  On the trail it was marked with a cairn to show where you can leave the trail.  The plane crashed back in 1963.  Please respect the wreckage and leave it as it is.

Plane Wreckage
Plane Wreckage along the Albright Trail. Below: Adam checks out another section of the plane.

Plane Wreckage

The Paul C. Wolfe Memorial shelter was built by the Old Dominion Appalachian Trail Club in 1991.  According to their website, “it took approximately 30 people every weekend for two months to complete the shelter.  Materials were hauled two miles by hand and tractor.”  This is one of the nicest huts on the AT, according to a lot of the thru-hikers.  It really has nice construction and a beautiful location.

After our hike, we made a quick trip down to Sonic for a snack (tots and creamslushes!).  We didn’t want to spoil our anniversary dinner though, since we had reservations at The Local Chop & Grill House in Harrisonburg, VA.   It always feels good to have a guilt-free dinner when you have burned off a lot of calories on a hike.

Christine says…

What a great anniversary hike!  I love being out on the trail during the peak of fall foliage season.  All during the hike, the sun was filtering through the trees above – making a gorgeous canopy of gold.  There were also plenty of brilliant red maples tucked into the understory.  What was even better — no crowds!  Hiking on a weekday on a less well-known trail made this hike especially enjoyable.

I had new boots to try out on this hike. Right out of the box, my Oboz Sawtooth boots were perfectly comfortable.  They’re the first taller pair of boots I’ve ever worn.  I was skeptical about that, but they felt great the whole six+ miles.

Golden Forest
A golden canopy of forest.  Below: New boots on the Glass Hollow Overlook; Adam crosses Mill Creek; A small cascade on the stream.

New Boots Crossing Mill Creek Mill Creek

Since Adam has already talked about the trail specifics, I’ll just share a few of my highlights. One of my favorite stops was at the Paul C. Wolfe shelter.  It really is one of the nicest backpacking shelters I’ve ever seen – two levels, plexiglass windows, hooks to hang backpacks and a deep, well-sheltered porch, so you always stay dry when you’re sleeping.  The structure is set uphill, overlooking a wonderful, babbling stream.  Even the privy is unique at this shelter.  With it’s half-door, I can’t say you’ll ever get true privacy, but at least you know when it’s occupied and the ventilation couldn’t be better!

While we were taking our break at the shelter, we took a few minutes to flip through the log book.  We noticed the entry from one of the backpackers we met in September at the Pinefield Hut.  It was kind of neat to see a name we knew.

I also took some time to explore and photograph the stream.  Along the bank of the stream, there is a marble bench placed in memory of John Donovan.  He was an experienced hiker and a member of the Old Dominion Appalachian Trail Club. He died on his attempt to thru-hike the Pacific Crest Trail in 2005.  The bench gave me enough information to Google his name so I could learn more about what happened.  As it turns out, Backpacker Magazine published a long feature story about John Donovan’s disappearance and death in a 2006 issue.  It was a fascinating read!  The tragedy that befell Donovan turned into a miracle that saved two other lives.

John Donovan Bench
A bench is placed in memory of John Donovan. Below: The privy has a half door!

Half Door Privy

The plane crash was an interesting stop, too.  I expected the plane wreckage to be a lot rustier after close to fifty years in the woods, but it was still completely recognizable as an aircraft.  I couldn’t find anything more about the crash other than the year it happened and the type of plane.

After leaving the plane site, we finished out stint on the Albright Trail and made our way back to the car.  The parking lot was really full, but pretty much everyone else was on the Humpback Rocks trail.  I’m really glad we took the time to explore this trail – it turned out to be a perfect way to celebrate our anniversary.

Trail Notes

  • Distance – 6.2 miles
  • Elevation Change – 1500 feet.
  • Difficulty – 3.  There is a good amount of uphill climbing.  The steepest section is along the Albright Loop Trail.
  • Trail Conditions – 4.  The trail is nicely maintained.  During the fall season, be sure to watch your footing if the trail is covered with leaves.  There are loose rocks underneath a good portion of the trail.
  • Views –3.  The best unobstructed views are from the Glass Hollow Overlook.
  • Streams/Waterfalls – 3.  Mill Creek was moving nicely near the shelter.  According to a journal entry from an AT hiker, there is a small waterfall and pool shortly downstream.
  • Wildlife – 1.  We didn’t see anything beyond birds, chipmunks and squirrels.
  • Ease to Navigate – 3.5.  There are a few intersections, but there are also signs at each of the intersections.
  • Solitude – 3.  You will likely run into a few others on the trail, due to the proximity of Humpback Rocks.

Directions to trailhead: The trail is located on the Blue Ridge Parkway at Mile Marker 8. The hike begins on the blue-blazed trail to the right of the picnic table.

Appalachian Trail – Loft Mountain to Brown Gap

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This 7.1 mile hike picks up right where we left off on our last Appalachian Trail segment.  It turned out to be an easy section of hiking with many sweeping, panoramic views.

The View from Atop Loft Mountain
The view from Loft Mountain is one of the nicest in the park. Below: Wookie perches on the tool chest at the Ivy Creek maintenance hut; Taking in the view from the first eastern-facing overlook. You’ll pass this spot on the initial climb up Loft Mountain.

Wookie at Ivy Creek Eastern Overlook

Christine Says…

When we got to the Loft Mountain Wayside to begin our hike, the temperature was hovering right around 40 degrees and the wind was howling through the trees, making it feel quite a bit colder!  I donned a fleece pullover, gloves and a hat for the first time since last winter.  It was kind of nice to bundle up for a change.  I actually enjoy cold weather and snow (although I dislike the short, dark days and bare-limbed trees that winter brings.)  This was the valley’s first real cold-snap of the fall season, and I was glad we had a chance to get out for another hike.  Since the hike was not too long or hard, we brought our pug, Wookie, along for the trek.

The hike started off with a climb back up the Patterson Ridge trail and past the Ivy Creek Maintenance Hut to reach the point of the Appalachian Trail where our last segment left off.   Most of the early part of this section is a gradual hike up Loft Mountain.  After about a half mile of walking, I had already warmed up enough to ditch the hat and gloves.  Climbing uphill is a great way to heat yourself!

Christine and Wookie
Christine and Wookie enjoy the windy view on Loft Mountain. Below: From Loft Mountain you get nice views of Massanutten peak and Skyline Drive; Wookie stays hydrated.

Massanutten Wookie Drinking

I went into this section only expecting two nice views – the same ones we had seen when we hiked the Loft Mountain Loop a couple years ago.  So, I was pleasantly surprised that the open vistas occurred pretty regularly throughout the entire distance of the hike.  Instead of cutting a straight line through the middle of the camping area, the Appalachian Trail swings a wide arc around the area, adding distance but keeping the trail more scenic. In fact, some of the nicest views came from rocky ledges not far off the trail behind the Loft Mountain campground.

When we got to one of the overlooks near the campground, and I had a vivid flashback to my childhood.  My family camped at Loft frequently when I was in elementary school.  I remember our run-down, brown pop-up camper and the smell of bacon cooking over the campfire in the mornings.  I remember my dad’s goofy-scary ghost stories, making s’mores and going for family hikes on the AT.  So many fond recollections!  But this rocky overlook stirred a memory that wasn’t so pleasant!  I remember once when I was maybe seven or so, my parents let my brother and I go unsupervised to the overlook.  It was only a hundred or so yards from our campsite and we were well within earshot of mom and dad. For some reason, I decided to sit right on the edge of the rock shelf and dangle my feet over the edge.  It was all lots of fun, until it was time to swing my legs around and stand back up.  When I tried to get up, I couldn’t do it.  I was suddenly and utterly paralyzed with a fear of falling off that rock ledge.  I screamed and cried and sent my brother running to get my dad.  He dashed down, grabbed me under my armpits and yanked me back from the edge.  I had really forgotten about that moment until we passed the spot on this hike.  Looking at it again, it wasn’t quite as scary or precipitous as I remembered.

Ent
This tree looked like one of J.R.R. Tolkien’s Ents (see the eyes, nose and mouth?) Below: Butterflies were abundant, but they were all weak and slow due to the cold temperatures.

Monarch

After leaving the Loft Mountain area, the trail is really easy.  It’s either downhill or relatively flat for the remainder of the miles.  We covered the distance at a really good clip.  We passed quite a few other people out dayhiking – especially in the vicinity of the Doyles River-Jones Run trail.  We saw a lot of dogs out hiking, too.  All but two were leashed!  This was unusual and very welcome!  Wookie is always one of the smallest dogs on the trail, and big dogs sort of frighten him a bit when they come bounding up freely.

Near the end of the hike, the trail crosses a scenic overlook along Skyline Drive.  Basically, you walk across the overlook and pick the trail back up on the south end of the paved area.  A few tenths of a mile after that, the trail crosses to the west side of the Drive for the last mile of walking.

Our other vehicle was parked at the end of the segment – in the Brown Gap parking area.  Good hike!

Adam says…

This section of the Appalachian Trail can look misleading on a map.  On the road, it passes from mile marker 79 to 83, but the distance is longer on the actual trail since this section separates from the road to the east and winds around Loft Mountain and the Loft Mountain campground before rejoining the proximity of Skyline Drive again.  We left one vehicle at Brown Gap and parked our first vehicle at Loft Mountain.

Behind the Loft Mountain Campground
Some great views are a short walk from the Loft Mountain Campground. Below: Another nice view; Walking through the fallen leaves.

Views Near the Campground Trail

To make sure we cover every inch of the AT through SNP, we started off our trail by going down the fire road on the north side of the Loft Mountain wayside, across from the street.  You hurdle a small chain blocking off the fire road and then shortly take a right to head down the fire road.  You will pass the Ivy Creek Maintenance Hut and spring after about .3 miles.  At .6 miles, this fire road joins the white-blazed Appalachian Trail.  Take a right to head south and begin your climb up Loft Mountain.  At 1.1 miles, you reach a nice view to the east and at 1.6 miles you reach a few nice views to the west (along with an intersection with the Frazier Discovery Trail).  The trail then begins to take on a quick descent from Loft Mountain.  At 2.7 miles, you reach a post that shows a short side-trail to reach the Loft Mountain camp store.   At this point, you will begin to make your way around the Loft Mountain campground.  There are even a few trails to the campground, but you will see tents on a busy weekend through the trees.  Around 4.0 miles, you will also find some nice views if you step out on to the rocks near the campsites.  The trail begins to descend again.  At 6.1 miles, you will cross Skyline Drive and at 7.1 miles you should reach your vehicle at the Brown Gap parking lot.

Wookie Post Hike
Wookie was pretty happy with the hike.  Below: As soon as the car started moving, he fell asleep.

Sleeping Pug

This section of the AT had several great viewpoints.  The views from the top of Loft Mountain are in my opinion the best views from hiking in the southern section of SNP.  You’ll get to see views of mountains for miles and you can even glimpse Skyline Drive snaking through the mountain ridge.  It was also great to smell campfires from the Loft Mountain campground.  The smell of campfires on a cool day defines outdoors in the fall to me.

The day that we hiked this section happened to be JMU’s Homecoming.  Since we graduated from there a while ago, most of our close friends no longer return.  So, we typically try to avoid Harrisonburg that weekend, since it is packed with people at the restaurants, grocery stores, etc.  When we were just about a mile from the end of our hike, a group was coming up the trail and I heard someone say “Adam”.  It turned out to be a student assistant for our office and one of our JMU tour guides (of which, I used to serve as an adviser).  He was backpacking for a few days with some other students in his law program at the College of William & Mary.  It was great to catch up with him for a few minutes and it gave me a sense that we had our own version of Homecoming out on the trail.

wookieWookie Says…

It was great to get outside and do a hike.  On most trails, I tend to not be very confident with where I’m going.  I typically have Christine walk me, but I heel closely right behind her ankles with Adam walking behind.  This gives me a good buffer against anything we may come across on the trail.  But, if we are doing an out-and-back hike, on our return trip I remember where we’ve gone before, so I’ll walk proudly in front.  Since we did this with one car serving as a shuttle, I stayed in the middle on the hike.

The hike wasn’t too tough, since I’m in pretty good shape for a pug.  However, with about 1.5 miles left I started kicking my back foot out a little and was kind of limping along.  When Adam noticed this, we stopped.  It turns out I just had some mud between my pads which was making me step a little funny.  They don’t make hiking shoes for dogs like me, so occasionally this happens.

I did enjoy this hike, taking in the views and sniffing near the campgrounds for the smells of hot dogs cooking on the fire.  When we stopped for a quick break, I even found some peanuts on one of the rocks, left behind by some careless hiker.  I tried to wolf down before Adam & Christine noticed, but they were quick to grab me before I did.  I did have a few bowls of water to keep me hydrated and I got to eat some extra food when I got home.

Trail Notes

  • Distance – 7.1 miles
  • Elevation Change – about 800 feet
  • Difficulty – 2. The hike was really pretty easy, but 7 miles might be long for some people.
  • Trail Conditions – 4.  The Appalachian Trail is typically in good shape, but this section was especially nice and not too rocky at all.
  • Views – 5.  Many excellent places to take in the scenery below.
  • Streams/Waterfalls – 0. None
  • Wildlife – 1.  We didn’t see anything beyond birds and squirrels.
  • Ease to Navigate – 4.5. Just follow the white blazes and sign posts.  The trail is very direct.  When crossing parking lots and the Skyline Drive, keep your eyes peeled for cement trail markers to continue your hike.
  • Solitude – 2.  This hike passes Loft Mountain Campground and the very popular Doyles River-Jones Run trail, so you’ll like see quite a few people.

Directions to trailhead: Park one vehicle at Brown Gap, near mile marker 83 on Skyline Drive.  Then drive up to the Loft Mountain wayside, near mile marker 79 on Skyline Drive.  The trail begins across the street on the north side of the wayside.